Plasterboard sheathing. Wall cladding with plasterboard. Everything is very simple!!! How to choose the right putty? A few recommendations

October 28, 2016
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of dachas, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and horticulturist. He also has experience repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

As statistics show, self-finishing of housing is most often carried out using drywall on the walls. However, not all home masters are familiar with the nuances of installing dry plaster, which often leads to various negative consequences. Therefore, in this article, I decided to tell you in detail how to properly cover the walls with drywall.

Plasterboard wall cladding options

First of all, I note that there are two technologies for wall cladding with drywall:

Sheathing technology	Peculiarities
frame	It consists in mounting on the walls of the frame, which is subsequently sheathed with drywall. The frame allows you to correct any unevenness of the walls, as well as hide communications or place insulation between the walls and the sheathing.
Frameless	This technology of plasterboard wall cladding is applicable if their surface does not have serious irregularities, and there is no need to insulate the walls or hide communications under the cladding. The essence of this method is to glue the GKL directly to the wall using a special glue. This significantly reduces the wastage of space in the room.

Frame technology

Sheathing the walls of the GKL frame method is carried out in several steps:

Below we will consider each stage in detail.

Preparation of materials

Before sheathing the GKL walls, you need to prepare the following materials:

drywall itself - for walls it is desirable that it has a thickness of 12.5 mm. If the humidity level is increased in the room, for example, in the bathroom, moisture-resistant drywall should be used;

frame mounting materials - guides and main profiles, as well as brackets, hangers and crosses (crabs). To fasten all the elements of the frame, you will need special screws;
acrylic;
putty for walls - is selected depending on the type of room, as well as the type of finish. You can learn more about the choice of putty from other articles on our portal.

Now you can proceed to further work.

Markup execution

Marking is one of the most important stages of sheathing, since it depends on how smooth the walls will be. The instruction for its implementation looks like this:

First of all, you need to apply markings on the ceiling. To do this, step back from the wall a distance equal to the thickness of the frame, and draw points near two opposite adjacent walls.

If you do not plan to lay insulation inside the frame and place communications behind it, the thickness of the frame should be kept to a minimum - about 4 cm. This is the thickness of the profile and brackets;

further, such points must be designated for all walls that will be sheathed with plasterboard;
all points on the ceiling must be connected to each other with lines using a masking cord. To connect two points, pull a cord between them, then pull it down like a bowstring and release it. As a result, the cord will hit the ceiling and leave a trail in the form of a straight line;
when all the lines are drawn, you need to make sure that the angle between them is 90 degrees. Otherwise, they need to be corrected;

then the resulting lines should be transferred to the floor. To do this, you can use plumb lines or draw horizontal lines on adjacent walls with your own hands using a building level;
now on the wall you need to mark the location of the PP profiles. To do this, step back from the corner about 1 cm and draw a vertical line on the wall from the ceiling to the floor. All subsequent lines should be in 60 cm increments;
then on the resulting lines it is necessary to designate the location of the brackets. The step between them should be 50 cm;

According to this scheme, it is necessary to mark all the walls where the plasterboard sheathing is planned.

Frame installation

Now you can start assembling the frame. It is necessary to take this work very responsibly, since it depends on the frame how strong the plasterboard sheathing will turn out, rigid and durable.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

start assembling the frame by installing rails on the ceiling and floor. First you need to cut the profiles along the length with scissors for metal;
To fix the guides, as a rule, dowel nails are used. If the house is wooden, for example, in the country, you can use self-tapping screws;
then you need to install brackets on the wall according to the markings. Their installation is also carried out with the help of dowel-nails or self-tapping screws;

then you can proceed with the installation of PP profiles, starting from the corner. I must say that there are several options for arranging the corners of the frame. The simplest is shown in the diagram above.
Before fixing the profiles in the brackets with self-tapping screws, be sure to apply a level and make sure they are even;

to increase the strength of the frame, it is necessary to connect all the racks with crossbars, which are fastened with crosses. True, you can do without crosses by cutting the PP profile and bending the sides as in the photo above.
The step between the jumpers should be 50 cm, and they should be placed in a checkerboard pattern.

The walls of a frame house can be sheathed with drywall without a frame, i.e. attach the sheets directly to the supporting frame.

According to this principle, a frame is installed on all walls.

Drywall installation

So, we got acquainted with the assembly of the frame, now we will consider how to sheathe it. Before proceeding with this operation, it is advisable to immediately cut the drywall sheets.

To cut the GCR into two parts, you must perform the following steps:

draw a cut line on a sheet of drywall with a pencil and a rule or a long ruler;
then cut the cardboard along the marked line;

then break the sheet and fold it:
then cut the cardboard from the back along the bend line;
it is advisable to immediately process the end face with a special planer for drywall.

Cut sheets of drywall so that their joints fall on the profile. Otherwise, cracks may form at the joints.

If you need to cut a curved drywall part, you can use a jigsaw for this purpose. It is easiest to make round holes for sockets or switches with an electric drill with a special crown. True, it is more convenient to engage in this operation after sheathing the frame.

Now we sheathe the walls with drywall. Sheets are fastened with special self-tapping screws, which are screwed in in increments of 25 cm. Be sure to drown the hats so that they do not interfere with further wall decoration.

It is difficult to attach the sheets to the frame alone, as they are large and quite heavy. Therefore, it is advisable to involve an assistant in this work, especially if you are doing this operation for the first time.

Rough finish

After the completion of the frame sheathing, a rough finish of the plasterboard walls is performed, i.e. they are puttying. To do this, you must perform the following steps:

start work by preparing the joints of the sheets. First of all, cut a 5 mm chamfer from smooth edges (if they were not processed by a planer after cutting);
then stick a self-adhesive sickle tape on the joints;

now the surface of the walls needs to be primed. It is more convenient to perform this procedure with a paint roller with a pallet.
Try to apply the primer in a thin even layer. For processing hard-to-reach places, you can use a paint brush. Be sure to apply a second coat of primer after the first has dried;
then you need to putty the joints of the sheets and the caps of the self-tapping screws with a starting putty. To perform this procedure, you will need a narrow or small;

when the composition hardens, you need to cover the entire surface of the walls with a starting putty. This operation should be performed with a wide spatula, trying to apply the putty as accurately and evenly as possible..
To level the inner corners, use a special corner trowel. Perforated corners are glued to the outer corners, as shown in the photo above. They not only make the corners even, but also protect them from chipping.
You can learn more about how to putty walls on your own from other articles on our portal dedicated to this topic;

after the surface has hardened, sand the putty with a jointer with P80 - P120 abrasive to remove the most serious surface flaws;
then the surface of the walls must be wiped or vacuumed to remove dust, and then primed again;
if the walls are pasted over with wallpaper, then they do not need further finishing. If you plan to paint them, then you need to apply a thin layer of finishing putty to eliminate minor flaws on the surface. Polymer putty is best suited for these purposes, although its price is slightly higher than gypsum;
after hardening of the finishing layer, the surface must be carefully sanded with a fine mesh P150. To control the quality of grinding, the work must be done in bright light.

This completes the drywall finishing process.

Frameless drywall installation

Now let's look at how the walls are covered with drywall without crates. This work also includes several stages:

Preparation of materials

To sheathe a wall with drywall in a frameless way, you need to prepare:

drywall itself - the same sheets are used as for frame mounting;
drywall glue, for example, Knauf Perflix is suitable;
deep penetration primer.

You can replace drywall glue with a regular starting putty.

Wall surface preparation

If the frame sheathing method does not require the preparation of walls, then before sheathing the room with drywall in a frameless way, special attention must be paid to this procedure. The work is carried out as follows:

First you need to remove the old finishing coating. If the walls are finished with ceramic tiles, it should simply be knocked down with a chisel and a perforator.
If the walls are covered with wallpaper, they must first be moistened, then tucked with a spatula and torn off;
then walls must be wiped with a damp cloth to remove residues of wallpaper paste and other contaminants;
further, the walls must be primed with a deep penetration primer according to the scheme described above.

This completes the wall preparation process.

Gluing drywall

Finishing the room with drywall is carried out in the following sequence:

first, cut the plasterboard, so that in the future you do not waste time cutting them;
before sheathing the walls, drywall sheets should be primed from the back;
then prepare the adhesive solution according to the instructions on the package;
then the glue is applied to the drywall in a dotted way (with bloopers), as shown in the photo above, using a trowel or spatula;

now you need to attach a sheet of drywall to the wall and level it. So that deflections do not occur during the alignment process, you can press down the sheet with a rule or a long, even board. According to this principle, all walls are pasted over with GKL sheets.

After pasting the walls with drywall, it is necessary to perform a rough finish. This procedure is carried out according to the scheme described above.

Conclusion

Plasterboard wall cladding can be done in several ways. The choice of technology depends on the flaws of the walls. But, regardless of the method of finishing, in the process of work, it is necessary to strictly observe a certain procedure.

I recommend that you additionally watch the video in this article, which clearly shows the process of installing drywall. If any points are unclear to you, leave your questions in the comments, and I will be happy to answer you.

October 28, 2016

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Sheathing walls with drywall is actually not as difficult a process as many might think, but it is the best way to level walls. What plasterboard wall sheathing gives us is smooth walls, hidden communications (wiring, pipes, insulation, etc.), sound insulation, and environmental friendliness. Therefore, in this article we will carefully consider the process of wall cladding with drywall.

Necessary material for plasterboard wall cladding

Before starting any construction work, we need to make sure that the necessary material is available. The first thing we need is a metal frame, which we will make using:
1. Ceiling profile PP, Parameters: height 27 mm, width 60 mm, length 3 m.

2. Guide profile PN-28/27, as can be seen from the picture, it has a U-shape and serves not only for wall cladding, but also for ceilings. Parameters: height 27 mm, width 28 mm, length 3 m.

4. Self-tapping screws for metal, size 4 mm, they are also “buttons”

5. Self-tapping screws for fixing drywall sheets, size 25 mm

6. A screwdriver, you can also use a drill or a hammer drill, but I personally find it more convenient to work with a screwdriver. In this article “Choosing a Screwdriver”, I described in detail what screwdrivers are and how they differ.

7. Scissors for metal or fortune (Bulgarian)

8. Construction knife, preferably with a sharp and strong blade

9. Drywall sheets, you should pay attention to the dimensions: the standard sheet size is usually 2500x1200x12.5 mm and weight is about 29 kg, but sheets can be up to 5 meters long, from 2.4 meters to 1.2 meters wide, from 6 to 24 millimeters thick

10. Measuring tool: level, tape measure, plumb line. Read more about the measuring tool here “Measuring tool in construction”

11. Well, for complete happiness, a pencil or marker

Not so long ago, drywall was attached to a wooden frame, either directly to the ceiling or to the wall. Currently, there is a metal frame for attaching to drywall. The collection of the frame for drywall has been greatly simplified. This setup will save you a lot of time. With the help of a metal frame, you can assemble various designs.

In the future, drywall is attached to the metal frame, and walls, arches, partitions, ceilings are obtained. The metal frame is galvanized, and thus protected from corrosion and oxidation, due to this property it will last a long time. The metal frame for fixing drywall is divided into two parts: the main and the carrier. The main part is fixed to the ceilings and walls, and the drywall sheet is attached to the supporting part.
Using scissors for metal, you can cut the frame for attaching drywall. In order to attach a drywall sheet to the profile, special screws and self-tapping screws are needed. The service life of such a frame is much higher than that of a wooden one, it does not rot, and there are no wood pests.

Assembly of a metal frame for drywall.

I saw and read on the Internet many different ways of mounting a metal frame, the principle is of course the same, but there are enough mounting options, so I will describe exactly the method that I experienced on a personal example.

At the beginning of the installation of the drywall frame, it is necessary to determine the exact location of the partition or wall. When assembling the frame, you need to make sure that there are wires for electricity and water pipes. We are planning a place for future metal structures. In this case, we use a laser level and a chalk line. With a laser level, we measure the distance of the corners, and with a chalk cord - the evenness of the future structure to the floor lines. We repeat everything too in relation to the opposite wall. We also measure the boundaries of the future door.
To mount the profile, it is necessary to cut out three parts of the wall frame: the bottom, ceiling and wall. We measure the length of the frame and cut it with scissors. At the place of the future door opening, in the profile attached to the floor, we leave the desired size. According to the dimensions of the lower profile, we mark the required width on the plinth. Then we cut out the marked distance on the plinth and follow the exact vertical cut.

The cut sections are removed with a nail puller. If necessary, we nail the edges of the plinth with nails, or screw them to the wall with self-tapping screws. The gap between fasteners should be approximately 60 cm. If fastening to concrete is necessary, a hole must be made through the profile using a special drill. We hammer fasteners with a hollow into the resulting hole.

Installation of a drywall profile must be reliable. It is necessary to take a wooden block and insert it into the profile along the circumference of the wooden opening. This will secure the door frame. The profile with the bar must be inserted simultaneously into the profile of the lower trim on one side of the doorway. Do the same on the other side.

To establish the profile of the door lintel, right angle elbows are required to attach to the posts. To fix the jumper profile on the racks, you will need special drywall screws. In order to check the horizontalness, it is necessary to use a level. The first post is installed by screwing it into the bottom and top frame profile. After that, it is necessary to rotate the profile of the rack to a predetermined position. For the remaining racks, the same procedure is performed, including here the rack above the opening. If necessary, we install spacers, in case they are needed for fastening heavy and small sheets of drywall. The base is ready, the next step is plasterboard sheathing.

The process of plasterboard wall cladding

Working with drywall is quite easy, it is cut very simply. To do this, mark the place of the cut by applying a level or even object, cut the line with a knife. Then lightly strike the sheet at the cut, after which it will break exactly along the marked line. Carefully cut through the cardboard on the other side and you will get a perfect cut.

It is necessary to fix the sheet with self-tapping screws for drywall (25). Try to screw in the screws at a distance from the edges, otherwise they will break off, the distance between the screws is: in the middle 20-30 cm, at the edges about 15 cm. After the first sheet is screwed on, attach all the whole sheets and then cut and screw on the inserts.

Well, this is where the plasterboard wall cladding is completed. , the main thing is not to be afraid and try to do everything with your own hands, because a thing made on your own brings more satisfaction. On this I say goodbye to you, for now.

Finishing walls with drywall is an extremely important process in the construction business. This method of leveling the surface is considered one of the easiest and at the same time quite reliable. Drywall is durable and able to provide a good service life. In this article, we will consider how to finish the walls with drywall with our own hands, and also tell you the procedure for working in a wooden house.

Types of wall decoration

There are two processing methods using drywall. This is a method with and without frame installation. Both are quite often used in the construction business. Let's take a closer look at each of them.

Frameless way

This method is simple and fast enough. In this case, the installation of drywall is done with glue. But, do not forget that for such work it is necessary to use a special glue for drywall sheets. Fortunately, this one is quite common and can be found at any hardware store.

For installation, the first step is to prepare the walls. All dirt and dust must be removed from them, and also treated with a primer. You will also need to check the wall for defects and curvature.

If the unevenness of the wall does not exceed seven millimeters, then gluing occurs in the usual way. Glue is applied to the material and smeared over the entire plane. If the curvature is large, then the glue must be applied in the form of cakes at a certain interval. But, when the irregularities exceed twenty millimeters, we recommend that you first level the wall using putty, and only then glue the drywall.

Wall pasting

After cleaning and checking for irregularities, the wall is treated with a primer. Priming helps to increase the adhesion of the surface, and also protects the wall from the formation of mold and fungus. After, we wait until the primer is completely dry, and only then it will be possible to continue working. The next step is to prepare the adhesive solution. It must be prepared according to the instructions on the package and in no case violate the manufacturer's recommendations.

Recommends not to cook a lot at once, as the glue dries pretty quickly. After thirty minutes, the mixture will harden and cannot be used. We process the section of the wall with glue, on which drywall will subsequently be attached.

Next, the material is laid face down on the floor and is also treated with an adhesive solution over the entire area. For better installation, we recommend applying the adhesive with a second layer vertically. Next, the drywall is lifted and applied to the wall. It remains only to align it on a plane using a building level and a hammer made of wood or rubber.

Advice! We recommend installing small spacers about ten millimeters thick between the floor and the sheet. This will help the material expand with a sharp change in temperature or humidity. As a gasket, you can use the drywall itself.

The installation of the remaining sheets is carried out in the same way. The main thing is to take accurate measurements so that the adjacent sheets become correctly. We recommend paying special attention to the corners. Now let's take a closer look at the installation method with the installation of the frame.

Frame installation method

This method involves laying on the frame. The design can be made of metal or wooden bars. However, please note that the wooden frame must be well dried, otherwise the wood may dry out over time, which will lead to warping. And because of this, cracks or gaps may appear. Therefore, many professionals in the building trade recommend the use of metal profiles. They have good technical performance and can last for many years. The following photo shows an example of a wooden and metal frame for plasterboard wall cladding.

Frame installation

When choosing a metal structure, two profiles can be used: rack or guide. The guide profile is used to install the circuit and is attached to the ceiling and floor. They must be perfectly level. First, the profile is mounted to the ceiling, and then, using a plumb line, the installation location on the floor is determined. Next, rack profiles will need to be inserted into the guide profiles. They will need to be connected with screws. The interval between the uprights should be approximately fifty millimeters.

In order for the frame to be firmly installed, the profiles are usually attached to suspensions, the installation of which takes place in advance. The suspension installation interval is approximately forty centimeters. The installed frame is visible in the photo below:

Drywall fixing

This is already much easier to install the frame. The main thing is to properly fit the drywall sheet and install it in the right place. For installation, professionals recommend using black self-tapping screws, as they are made of heavy-duty material.

The self-tapping screw is screwed in carefully so as not to deform the drywall. The number of screws will need to be determined in advance.

Wall putty

The final stage of installation will be puttying the wall. If the frame method was chosen, then first of all it is necessary to process the fixing points with a solution and only then the joints between the sheets. For putty, experts use a special tape called sickle. Then the wall is primed and treated with putty until it becomes perfectly smooth.

Finishing a wooden house

Sheathing walls with drywall in a wooden house, although a difficult task, the result is worth it. You will get absolute symmetry and perfectly even walls, which is a huge advantage for a wooden house. Also, plasterboard sheathing will additionally insulate the walls. After finishing, you can choose any coating for further cladding, whether it be wallpaper or decorative plaster. Let's look at the procedure for sheathing a wooden house in more detail. The preparation process for a wooden house is visible in the following photo.

Plasterboard sheathing

The first step is to take measurements and cut the sheets. This will require:

mark with a ruler and pencil;
with a sharp construction knife, make an incision in the top sheet;
break the sheet according to the markup;
bend the sheet at an angle and cut the back side of the drywall;
on the cut material at the joints at a distance of about 10 millimeters, make markings;
again make a cut with a construction knife;
chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees;
smooth out all irregularities with sandpaper.

Now you can start fixing the drywall. It is better to place the material in a checkerboard pattern, a slight shift is acceptable. Sheets are attached to the screws. Fasteners should be at a distance of approximately 25 centimeters. The closer the screws are, the better.

Finishing

Before proceeding to the finishing of the walls in a wooden house, check the location of the electrical wiring. Since it will be very difficult to disassemble the walls in order to fix everything.

Small grooves are formed at the joints during processing. They need to be filled with plaster and drown a sickle in them. This procedure will protect the coating from the formation of seams and cracks. Then all the recesses above the self-tapping screws are filled with plaster. The final procedure can be considered wallpapering or applying decorative plaster.

If you plan to stick wallpaper, you will need to pre-treat the wall with a primer. In order for the wallpaper to hold as well as possible, we recommend applying an additional layer of glue to the drywall. The next photo shows the result of finishing a wooden house with plasterboard.

Eventually

As you can see, plasterboard walls have a lot of advantages. Such a procedure will allow not only to align the walls, but also to insulate the house. The procedure for decorating walls with your own hands is quite difficult, but if you carefully follow the tips and recommendations, you will succeed. The interior decoration of a wooden house with drywall also allows you to strengthen the walls and protect them from moisture. We recommend watching the following video to see the process of finishing the walls with drywall:

First of all, it is worth reminding you of what a drywall sheet is. This is a multi-layer construction sandwich, in which gypsum plays the role of the filling, and cardboard is the base. Moreover, the latter protects the gypsum from below and from above. Plasterboard work is now considered quite popular, because the material is endowed with a number of positive qualities:

not dangerous for the environment;
helps to quickly change the space;
the design is strong and durable;
well mounted on any frame;
there is the possibility of frameless installation;
superbly lined with finishing materials;
easy to cut;
accepts any configuration;
is inexpensive;
quickly mounted and dismantled.

Along with the advantages, the material also has disadvantages, but, knowing about them, many troubles can be avoided. A number of disadvantages of drywall:

Fragile. During transportation, the sheet must be handled carefully so as not to break it or damage the corners and edges. Having decided to hang any objects on the wall after repair, you should take this into account when installing the frame.
Does not tolerate low temperatures well. If it is below +10 degrees Celsius, then it is not recommended to work with the material.
Constructions from it reduce the usable area. Their use is rational only in rooms with sufficient space.

If it is necessary to erect a partition, in an office, a guest room, a room for flowers, a brick or wooden wall is not suitable for a number of reasons: the additional load was not taken into account on the foundation, in addition, the construction time will be delayed, costs will increase (the cost of materials, their delivery, the work of specialists ). And the frame made of a metal profile for drywall and the sheet itself are quite light and the installation process does not take much time.

Do not think that drywall can only be used in low-rise cottages. In multi-apartment urban buildings, drywall is one of the most common materials with which you can change the layout and space of the room.

In apartment buildings, during construction, ceiling ceilings are installed, which are designed for a certain load according to the calculations, and an extra load on them can lead to collapse of the ceiling. But if you make a drywall partition, then its weight will give a minimum load on the floor slab, unlike heavier materials such as brick or plaster.

Note that all this is permissible in an ordinary apartment without approvals and project approvals from city and district architectural organizations. This operation will not be considered a major redevelopment. After a couple of years, having decided to make a new repair, you can easily dismantle the partition and come up with something else.

When redevelopment, if you do not break the existing partition of plaster or other material, you can do without official papers. Otherwise, you should contact the BTI (Bureau of Technical Inventory) to obtain permission for a legal redevelopment in order to avoid problems and fines in the future. And obtaining permission for redevelopment is associated with the existing load on the foundation of your house, since many residents of apartment buildings are redevelopment and thereby increase the load on the foundation and floors.

The technical characteristics and history of the appearance of this building material can be found in the article "".

How to sheathe a concrete or brick wall with drywall

You should know that drywall sheets can be mounted on walls in two ways:

With a metal or wooden frame.
Frameless method.

Each of the methods is used in certain cases and circumstances. If the base is relatively flat, then plasterboard wall cladding can be done using the frameless method. And if the surface has large differences, then a frame made of a profile for drywall is required. Otherwise, the layer of mounting adhesive will be too thick, which is a violation of technology.

An open concrete or brick surface does not attract everyone with its brutality. Well, except for lovers of the loft style. They adore such minimalism, industrial romance and roughness of the interior.

We will tell you how to fix drywall on uneven walls with your own hands. According to the technology, this process should include 3 stages:

Surface preparation.
Frame installation.
Facing the frame with plasterboard sheets.

It must be remembered that the installation of drywall on the wall should begin even before the installation of clean floors, but already with the wiring of sanitary and electrical systems.

Necessary tools for installation

Each specialist and novice who performs the installation of drywall on the frame must own certain tools:

plumb line, building level;
perforator, screwdriver;
scissors for metal, grinder, you can cutter;
construction knife;
pencil;
cord or fishing line;
roulette, square.

The metal profile is considered durable and reliable. All parts of domestic production are carried out according to the standards:

More details on the technical characteristics of these elements can be found in the article "".

Mounting a profile for drywall with your own hands is not possible without fasteners. These products meet certain standards:

Finishing the walls with drywall begins with the installation of a frame made of profiles. The place where it will be installed must be free from old cladding that will interfere with the correct execution (wooden panels, planking). To do this, we will clean the wall, the surface of the floor and ceiling adjacent to it. We will pre-cut the profiles according to the required dimensions.

Detailed instructions for mounting the frame for GKL from a metal profile

Let's mark the marks on the floor. This operation is extremely important, the position of your future structure depends on it - its horizontal and vertical position. It is better to double-check yourself several times at the initial stage of marking lines than to dismantle the frame later or even disassemble the lopsided structure. Indeed, along the lines that are marked, a guide profile will be attached, and drywall on it.

Proper markup is essential. The accuracy of the installation of the frame and the evenness of the future structure depend on it.

We find with the help of a 90 ° building square, a wall with the most even corners, or at least one more or less even one. This wall, according to the drawing, will be under No. 1.

Next, mark the lines on the side walls - No. 2 and No. 3. To do this, we use a rule with a built-in level, or, if there is none, you can take any of the profiles and the level. The main thing is that the part is even. We expose the rule on wall No. 2, in the corner “a”, along the vertical level and mark the line on the wall, from ceiling to floor, with a pencil or marker.

When marking, it is necessary to take into account the minimum distance from the wall, taking into account the thickness of the profile 27 x 60, plus one centimeter.

According to the marked line, we transfer the same straight line to the parallel wall No. 3. To do this, use a tape measure, and a pencil or marker.

We measure the distance from wall No. 4 to the mark in the corner "a" on wall No. 2, along the floor, and transfer this size to wall No. 3 in the corner "d", as low as possible to the floor. According to the mark on wall No. 3, we set the rule along the vertical level and draw a line to the ceiling.

Stage number 2 "Installing the frame"

For this stage, you will need a profile 27 x 28 mm, which has the shape of the letter P.

With the back wall of the guide profile, having a size of 27 mm, we apply it to the wall, from the inside of the marked line. Every 500 mm we fasten the profile to dowels or anchor wedges. And so around the perimeter. It is important to know that there must be at least three such connections per profile part.

You can use dowels and anchor - wedges 6 x 40 (where 6 is the thickness and 40 is the length). And the maximum allowable fastening interval between the dowels is at least a meter.

On a profile screwed to the ceiling, with a construction marker or pencil, we make marks every 400 mm - in the case of a reinforced structure (used much more often) or 600 mm - in the case of a non-reinforced one. Using a plumb line, we transfer these marks to the lower profile.

These marks will serve us when attaching the rack profile and straight hangers along this line from top to bottom. A direct suspension is attached along the rack profile every 500 mm for further fastening of the guide profile itself.

To soften the "sound bridges" between the profile and the base, we will lay a sealing tape.

As a result, we got the contour of the future plane with markings for the rack profile and elements of its fastening to a vertical surface. This is the basis of the frame.

Next, we insert the rack profile into the guide profile, according to pre-marked marks and fix the latter with a series of straight hangers. A very important point at this stage is the fastening of the first rack profile. Since we give complete information on how to mount a drywall wall, we cannot miss the following points.

When performing work on mounting the frame on all walls of the room, the question arises: how, after installing the frame on one wall, dock it with another and at the same time get a right angle of 90 °.

The fastening of the guide profile, when you have assembled wall No. 1 and begin to assemble the frame on wall No. 2, occurs in this way.

The guide profile is not attached to the wall, but to the rack-mount profile of the finished frame on wall No. 1. Which during installation should be fixed closer to the corner, so that at this stage there would be no difficulties with fixing the guide profile.

We apply the construction square to the guide profile on the assembled wall frame No. 1 in the corner "a". We visually estimate what degree this corner has from wall No. 2 (on which there is no frame) to the square. If the angle is more than 90 o, then the minimum distance from wall No. 2 to the mark will be in the far corner “b”, and the mark itself on wall No. 3. But if the angle is less than 90 o, then the minimum distance should be measured from the angle "a", and apply the square to the frame on wall No. 1. Now you can proceed with the installation of the guide profile with full confidence that the corners of the room will be even and any furniture purchased will fit into them.

In order for the walls to turn out to be even and have a clear geometry, it is necessary to understand that in the production of work all the described nuances should be observed.

When wall No. 2 was mounted, the first even corner was obtained. In order for a flat rectangular wall to come out, it is necessary to begin the installation of the next wall under No. 3, adjacent to wall No. 1. The marking of this wall is made in this order.

On wall No. 1 in the corner "d" we mark the minimum distance from the wall to the guide profile. We also look at the corner, if it requires it, then we start marking, as in the case of wall No. 2, in a parallel corner, which in this case is the “c” corner. And the wall on which there will be a mark will be wall number 3. We measure the distance from the mark to the frame of the second wall and transfer this size to the parallel corner of the same wall under No. 3. Next, we mount the frame assembly by analogy with the previous walls.

If the correct measurements are made and the marks are correctly transferred, then even frames for three walls with 90° angles are obtained.

The frame on the wall No. 4 is marked out quite easily. On wall No. 2, in the corner "b" we mark the minimum distance on wall No. 2. As elsewhere, we look at the corner. To get an angle of 90 o, in the corner "c" on wall No. 3 we mark the same distance as on wall No. 2. Do not forget to check where you first need to mark the minimum distance. Next, we fix the guide profile and assemble the frame.

Since the rack profiles are mounted at a distance of 400 mm or 600 mm, if you attach a drywall sheet to the profiles and screw it, you can see that the sheet is not attached to anything between the profiles. This is not a solid and not the right design.

Take for example a frame with a 600 mm rack profile fastening step and consider the following work that needs to be done:

It is required to cut two pieces of the rack profile 27 x 60, 580 mm each, if the height of the room is 3000 mm.
A multiple of the dimensions of the drywall sheet 2500 mm x 1200 mm, taking into account that the drywall joint should be in the middle of the profile, we expose it horizontally between two rack profiles at a height from the floor to the center of the transverse horizontal bar 2500 mm. We fix it to the rack profile with the help of "crabs", in the middle - with the help of a suspension.
In the next span between the rack profiles in a checkerboard pattern, I focus on the already installed horizontal crossbars, install them with the help of "crabs" and direct suspensions profiles of 580 mm in size. We make sure that the drywall seams are staggered.

For accuracy, you can check the diagonal. It must match, i.e. angle ac = bd.

Stage number 3 "Installation of drywall on the frame"

We start laying with solid sheets, at this stage things will go quickly, the main thing is to follow the laying technology:

We start work from the bottom corner of the largest wall of the room. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm. Fastening from the edge of the transverse end - no closer than 15 mm, and in the longitudinal direction - 10 mm. For ease of use, it is better to fix the sheet at several points.
In places of window or door openings, we use additional fixation of drywall on an intermediate profile, which we will install in advance along the contour of the window slope.
We drown the heads of the self-tapping screws into the sheet by 1 mm, but more than 1.5 mm. After puttying, the recesses on the surface will not be visible.
Finishing the walls with drywall implies that there will be no surface deformations on the sheets and joints in the form of creases and torn edges.
Next, we will seal the seams, primer, putty, surface grinding and cladding. More details about this set of works can be found in the article "".

If, when laying sheets, a situation arises in which drywall trimmings are used, then during installation, the main thing is that the joints lie exactly on half of the profile. But this will be considered a violation of technology, since there will be a violation of the integrity of the base of the wall, and in the future it will entail cracks, respectively, and unnecessary financial expenses.

How to sheathe a frame house or wooden walls with drywall

Now that you know how to fix drywall to a wall made of solid materials - concrete, brick, blocks on a metal profile - you can find out how this material will behave with walls made of wood.

Finishing a wooden house with drywall has certain advantages:

saving time;
absolute symmetry of space;
hidden wiring;
the choice of any finishing material you like, although not only wooden houses can boast of such an indicator.

It should be noted that in this situation there are some peculiarities during installation. This fact is due to the mobility of the wooden surface. In a wooden house, it takes from one and a half to three years from the moment of construction to complete shrinkage. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that when finishing a wooden surface with drywall, a loss of quality is possible if you start ennobling the walls with it without waiting for shrinkage.

Wooden buildings are lined with plasterboard indoors using a frame:

From a metal profile.
On wooden blocks.

For work you will need:

Regardless of whether noise and heat insulation will be laid or not, it is imperative to make a vapor barrier. Ideally, if it is laid in front of the frame and after it. This procedure serves to isolate the tree from moisture as much as possible.

We pre-treat the surface with a special antiseptic composition so that the tree inside is not damaged by various microorganisms and bacteria. They destroy the wall over time. Only after the surface has completely dried, we install drywall, it is not difficult to do it with your own hands.

To install the frame, we offer comparative characteristics of the metal and wooden frame.

Instructions for installing drywall on a metal frame to wooden walls

Installation should be carried out in such a way that the structure complies with building codes and regulations, withstands its weight and objects that can be hung on the walls: additional accessories, TV, paintings, mirrors. Facing the walls with drywall in a wooden house begins after the installation of the frame, but before that, another very important and responsible process is needed. A metal frame is much more practical, so consider the technology of its device.

Stage number 1 "Marking the walls for the frame"

This stage is described in sufficient detail in a subparagraph of the same article. In short, we perform the following operations.

Let's mark the marks on the floor. Using a 90 o building square, select a wall with the most even corners. On the two walls adjacent to it, we mark the lines using a rule with a level or a profile and a level. We set the tool to a vertical level and mark a line from the ceiling to the floor.

When marking, you need to take into account the minimum distance from the wall surface, taking into account the thickness of the profile and one more centimeter.

The marked line, using a tape measure, is transferred to a parallel wall. Using the vertical level as a rule, draw a line on the wall from floor to ceiling. Next, we connect the lines along the ceiling and floor.

Stage number 2 "Installing the frame"

According to the finished marking, profile guides (27 x 28 mm) can be attached. We apply the back wall to the floor along the line from the inside. With a step of 500 mm, we fix it with a dowel 6 x 40, if the surface is concrete. And since the surface is made of wood, then with wood screws 25 mm, they have a larger thread pitch.

There must be at least three fasteners on the profile per part.

We also attach the guide profile to the ceiling, only on it with the help of a marker (pencil) we make marks every 400 mm - 600 mm (depending on how strong the structure you need). With the help of a plumb line, these marks are transferred to the lower profile. They will be useful to us when attaching rack profiles and suspensions for them.

A direct drywall hanger is attached along the rack profile every 500 mm to wood screws, for further fastening of the guide profile itself.

We insert the rack profile into the guide and fix it on direct suspensions with self-tapping screws.

It is worth remembering that in this case, rigid fixation is not used, since the tree expands or narrows depending on the season: in summer the heat evaporates moisture from it, and in winter the tree absorbs it and expands.

Such a system makes it possible to successfully sheathe wooden surfaces, taking into account changes in temperature conditions. We screw the self-tapping screw into a wooden surface to a depth of at least 20 mm in increments of not more than 500 mm. We will lay a sealing tape between the suspension and the wooden wall to weaken the “sound bridges”.

Rack profiles with guides are connected using screws or a cutter. Between the vertical posts we install profiles 57 x 28 in a horizontal position with the same pitch as the rack profiles (400 mm - 600 mm), they act as jumpers.

During installation, we fasten the rack profile at a distance of 500 mm from each other. The optimal distance between the screws is about 150-200 mm. The installation of the rack profile starts from the two extreme racks, if there is a doorway, including from it. Next, we mount ordinary parts. Their vertical position is constantly controlled by the building level.

It must be remembered that drywall and a wooden surface have different physical and chemical properties, they should not come into contact. Therefore, rigid fastening of drywall to a wooden wall is not allowed. And they use a straight suspension for this.

Stage number 3 "Installation of drywall"

Before installing drywall, we will carry out sound, heat, and vapor barrier of the surface. We will also lay communication systems and electrical wiring. The drywall laying technology is identical to the work carried out with the concrete surface, which is described above.

Installation starts from the bottom corner of the largest wall. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm. Fastening from the edge of the transverse end - no closer than 15 mm, longitudinal - 10. Hats enter the sheet by 1 mm, but more than 1.5 mm.

We arrange the sheets in a checkerboard pattern in the same way as in the diagram, at the junction points on one profile, both sheets should go and be attached. In the openings, we use additional fixation of drywall on the intermediate profile, which was installed along the contour of the slope.

After the installation of drywall, we will seal the seams and places where self-tapping screws occur, primer, putty, grind the surface and proceed to the cladding. More detailed information on this set of works can be obtained in the article "".

Fire safety of electrical wiring inside the frame under drywall

The desire of many people to save on electrical work leads to disastrous results. This is especially true for wooden structures. Hiring illiterate electricians who don't bother knowing the codes and standards will guarantee you big problems. Some unfortunate craftsmen in a wooden house carry out electrification in the same way as in brick buildings. And this is wrong.

There are documents that regulate the methods of laying electrical wiring.

Don't forget about rodents. Illegal home lodgers are curious and taste everything. You should not think that they will not gnaw on electrical wires. Therefore, it is better not to save money and use a material that can withstand even extreme loads with a margin and be too tough for uninvited guests.

Wiring in a wooden house must be done in such a way that, after putting it into operation, remember about it only during the period of planned diagnostics.

Regulatory documents, which detail safe methods for installing electrical wiring in wooden buildings, regulate a fairly strict list of work - time-consuming and expensive. One of the most important of these regulations is Rules for the installation of electrical installations PUE (approved by the Ministry of Energy of the USSR) (6th edition)».

Many neglect them. But you shouldn't do it. Don't skimp on the safety of your loved ones.

How to sheathe adobe walls with drywall

Adobe - this building material consists of a certain part of clay and straw. They didn’t remember about it for a long time, but in our time they started talking - it combines perfectly with the latest technologies and begins to occupy its niche in the modern construction industry.

The surface of adobe is not so smooth, so the question naturally arises: how to level the walls with drywall in such a house. In this case, the method of installing a partition from a metal frame with its subsequent sheathing with sheets of drywall is useful. Since the adobe wall is fragile and the screws will not be fixed there, it is necessary to work with the floor and ceiling.

According to the technological process, there are four stages to be performed:

Prepare accessories for the frame.
Install them.
Make a vapor barrier.
Sheathe the frame with drywall sheets.

The first stage includes the process of preparing frame parts. For work, you will need metal profile parts (rails and racks), suspensions and fasteners. More details about these products and their characteristics can be found in the article "".

You will also need tools:

building level, plumb line, hydraulic level, chopping cord;
perforator, screwdriver;
electric scissors, metal shears, grinder;
construction knife;
pencil or marker, square;
cutter;
roulette.

You must first cut the profiles to length. The height of the rack profile is equal to the distance from the floor to the ceiling, you can still remove five millimeters. The length of the guide profile depends on the length of the wall on which the frame is to be installed. The process itself consists of the stages of marking, mounting the frame and laying drywall sheets.

Marking the base for mounting guide profiles

Marking is considered one of the main points when installing the frame. It is described in sufficient detail and shown in this article in the section (in the subparagraph of the same name).

In a house with adobe walls, we find a wall with the most even corners. To do this, we use a 90 o square.

Now we need to mark the lines on the nearby walls.

Using a building rule with a built-in level or any profile and level, we draw a line from ceiling to floor. To do this, set the rule to the vertical level.

When marking, you should take into account the minimum distance from the wall, the thickness of the profile 27 x 60 and one more centimeter.

According to this line, we transfer the same straight line to a parallel wall. We do this with a tape measure and a pencil. We measure the distance from the far wall to the mark and transfer it to a parallel wall. Having applied the construction rule to the received mark, we draw a line from the ceiling to the floor along the vertical level. Then we connect the lines along the ceiling and along the floor. We have a ready-made markup on which you can attach the profile guides.

Mounting the frame for drywall

Next, we attach the guide profile (28 × 27) to the floor. To do this, we will attach its back (27 mm) to the marked line and attach it with dowels in increments of at least 1000 mm, there must be at least three such fasteners per guide profile. The hole for the dowel is drilled with a puncher. But if the floor is wooden, you need to fix it with self-tapping screws.

Then, along the marked line on the ceiling, we drill the profile. Dowels should enter the concrete base by 10 mm, and self-tapping screws into the wooden base by 20 mm.

In the grooves of the horizontal profiles, we alternately install the prepared rack profiles (60 × 27). Their step is no more than 400 mm. The vertical of each rack profile is strictly checked by the building level. We connect the parts together with self-tapping screws or with the help of a cutter.

To give rigidity to the frame, we will strengthen it with additional horizontal bridges between the vertical posts. The step between them can be 400 - 600 mm . Thus, subject to the dimensions of 600 mm between the rack profiles, there will be 3 profiles per sheet vertically, and 4 profiles per 400 mm interval per one GKL.

In houses with adobe walls, vapor barrier and insulation are required. As the latter, experts most often recommend mineral wool. This material will also serve as a good sound insulator.

Installation of drywall sheets on the frame

Given the specifics of the adobe base, it is desirable to use moisture-resistant drywall in the work. This work can be done alone, but since the whole sheet weighs 25 kg and has a large size (2500 x 1200 x12.5), it is better to use outside help. First, we fix the sheet in 2-3 places with self-tapping screws.

We begin the work on facing the frame with solid sheets from the corner of the room or doorway. We install drywall vertically, press it to the racks of the frame. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm, the fastening from the transverse end is no closer than 15 mm, the longitudinal end is 10 mm, at a distance of 60 mm from the ceiling.

We screw the screws on adjacent sheets with an offset of 1 - 2 cm from each other.

The self-tapping screw enters the sheet by 1 mm. If the depth is greater, then the sheet will break, and not twisted - it will stick out during finishing, it will have to be twisted or a larger layer of putty should be applied during finishing work. In addition, rust protrudes from the caps of self-tapping screws on such a surface over time. If you have light wallpaper, then brown spots are unlikely to decorate the interior. Such an oversight will certainly lead to additional cash spending.

When the installation of whole sheets has been completed, we fill in the places not covered by drywall. By analogy with the above works.

The device of smooth walls made of drywall on mounting glue (without a frame)

There are circumstances in which the alignment of walls with drywall using a metal frame is impractical. If the room already has small dimensions, then reducing it around the perimeter by a few centimeters will further reduce the space. It is in such cases that the installation of GKL on glue is used.

This technology provides an opportunity to quickly and cost-effectively prepare the walls for finishing. And most importantly, the loss of the desired usable area will be minimal.

You can glue drywall on concrete, plastered or brick surfaces. But they do this when the probable deviation from the vertical is within 30 mm per meter of the wall in height. Tools and equipment are required for work.

Drywall sticker on the surface

This process does not seem complicated, but it requires strict implementation of the work production technology:

First of all, we make an audit of the existing foundation. Using a plumb line or level, check the dimensions of the irregularities.
We will free the surface from the old lining, remove large irregularities, and fill deep cracks with putty or cement-sand mortar. The paint must be removed with particular care.
The surface will be treated with a primer.
We cut drywall sheets to the required dimensions. Remember that there should be 8 - 10 mm of free space between the floor and the sheet. It is necessary that air freely flows to the polymerizing adhesive.
We put several rails, trimmings or wedges 8-10 mm thick on the floor against the wall. It is on them that drywall will rely.
We lay the sheet on a flat surface, closer to the wall, and apply an adhesive to it. This is done in two ways: with a notched trowel along the perimeter of the sheet and then in the center with a thin layer or by spot application over the entire surface of the sheet. In the second case, the technology occurs in the following way. We make preliminary markings on the walls so that the drywall sheets are located in the same plane when sticking. Draw a straight line on the floor and ceiling at a certain distance. It is she who will be the guideline for installation work. We apply glue around the perimeter of the drywall and in the center with a trowel, in small piles, after about 200 - 250 mm. The diameter of each slide is about 100 mm, and the height of 200 - 250 mm. We lay out the mounds for the rest, but the distance between them will already be 300 - 400 mm. In areas where drywall adjoins openings, window sills, where tiles will be glued or equipment will be suspended, the adhesive composition is applied to the entire surface of the sheet.
We apply a sheet to the wall - starting from the corner of the room. Then we move around the perimeter. We press the sheet a little, then mark the protruding sections according to the level and, pressing them slightly, align the sheet. This checks the visual vertical and horizontal position of the drywall. But its exact position is fixed by the building level.
Flattening the sheet can be done with light blows with a fist or a rubber mallet. Just do it carefully so that the drywall does not break in places where there is no glue.

You can use dowel-nails for additional fixation of the material in the position you specified. After completion, we wait two to three days. There should not be a sharp change in the temperature regime in the room. The materials at hand on which the drywall was held are removed from under the sheets, and the remaining cracks are putty together with the seams.
Foreign and domestic specialized companies offer a large selection of adhesives; before starting work, check the scope of their application in the instructions. Each type has certain characteristics, installation methods and drying times.

It is best to use a board or bar for leveling. You can hit them with more force, without fear that the drywall will be damaged, and the area of \u200b\u200bsuch a base is much larger than that of a hammer. Window, as well as a doorway made of plasterboard, when sheathed, glue close to the slopes or cut off the plumb line.

Now that you know how to assemble components, install metal profiles and how to sheathe walls with drywall using a frameless method and using a frame, you can familiarize yourself with the technology for installing partitions in a room.

Construction of interior partitions

There are many reasons why we need room dividers. Someone did not like the large room and there was a desire to retire in their own office. And someone wants to zone the space. There are many mobile partitions: glass, plastic, portable. But in my apartment I want something solid. So that in a separate room it was quiet and warm. You can build a wall of brick or gas silicate. But this process will be delayed for a long time, it will require large financial expenses, forces and nerves. And most importantly, you do not know if the interfloor ceiling will withstand.

In these situations, drywall partitions help us out. They combine the properties of light and capital structures, have a number of advantages:

economically more profitable;
have a small weight;
the erection method excludes "wet" processes;
installation is fast;
it is possible to implement multivariant architectural solutions;
a variety of lining, secret laying of engineering communications and electrical wiring is allowed;
it is possible to improve heat, sound insulation and indoor climate.

Tools and fixtures for the construction of interior partitions from drywall

We need the following tools to work with drywall and metal profiles:

Roulette.
Level.
Plumb.
Square, ruler.
Construction knife.
Pencil or marker.
Scissors for metal, grinder.
A cutter, but not necessarily.
Screwdriver, perforator.

A plasterboard partition is an original design that can be given any configuration, lined with the material that you like more than others.

A do-it-yourself plasterboard partition must comply with all the rules, because their failure to comply can lead to the destruction of the structure, damage to property and damage.

Consider the installation of a plasterboard partition with your own hands, the design is a single metal frame, which is sheathed on both sides with one layer. For more solid fencing, the frame is sheathed with drywall in two layers.

The step-by-step instruction begins with the installation of profiles. We will analyze this technology using the example of the Knauf integrated system. This manufacturer offers the consumer not only high-quality products, but also properly developed methods that guarantee you a long service life of the structure.

Partitions assembled in this way are not non-load-bearing structures, they serve as internal enclosing lightweight structures in residential and industrial buildings. They are designed for rooms with normal humidity ( SNiP 23-02-2003) and not very high.

The main elements are:

drywall;
metal profiles (guides and rack);
fasteners.

It is better to install partitions during the period when the finishing stage of work is taking place in the room - before laying clean floors and when the wiring of plumbing and electrical systems has already been completed. The location of the latter in the cavity of the frame should take place in such a way that the sharp edges of the metal profiles and screws do not damage their integrity.

In rooms where there is high humidity, it is necessary to install moisture-resistant drywall, and cover the places where water will enter with waterproofing.

Technical characteristics of the partition

In the table below, you can see the height of the partition, depending on the modification of the rack profile with a single frame and sheathing with drywall sheets in one layer.

Frame installation

The installation of the frame must be approached with full responsibility. After all, it is he who becomes the supporting part for drywall sheets, forms a rigid basis for them and is attached around the perimeter to building structures.

The entire workflow consists of the following steps:

Marking is considered one of the main points when installing the frame. Accuracy at this stage is important, as the deflection will slant the baffle, and this cannot be allowed to happen. For marking you will need a level, cord, ruler, tape measure and plumb line. First, determine the place where the partition will be mounted. We make markings on the floor, using a laser level or a cord, we draw a straight line. The same must be done on the wall and on the ceiling, for this we use a plumb line or level.
Next, we fasten the guide profile 50 to the floor with screws K 6/35. To do this, we apply the profile to the marked line and mount it with a dowel (1000 mm pitch), at least three fasteners per product. Then we install a profile on the ceiling along the marked line.
We install the prepared rack 50 x 50 from the side of the wall into the grooves of the guide profile and drill it to it with TN25 self-tapping screws.
Now it is necessary to note the location of the vertical racks. Step - 400 mm. We prepare the number of rack profiles we need. To do this, mark the desired height and cut off from the product with scissors for metal. We insert the resulting vertical racks into the guides on the floor and ceiling of the profile according to the marks. We fix the rack profile on the lower rails with the help of self-tapping screws, using the level, we check its vertical position. Next, we connect the profiles up with self-tapping screws or a cutter. When a doorway is provided in the partition, then between the rack profiles that frame it, we install an additional jumper. We bend the profile cut to size in the shape of the letter "P" and install it in the opening. Using a tape measure and a level, we check its correct position and connect it with self-tapping screws to the rack profile.

You can strengthen the profile in the opening with the help of wooden bars. Their size must correspond to the size of the internal opening of the profile. The beam is inserted inside the rack profile and screwed with self-tapping screws in increments of 500 - 600 mm along the side shelves.

Installation of drywall on the frame of the interior partition

Now the frame should close the drywall, do-it-yourself installation of this material is not difficult to make. To get a full-fledged partition, you must first veneer only one side of it. We will carry out the following operations:

We start work from any corner or from the opening. Let's bring a whole sheet and fix it at 2 - 3 points. Using a screwdriver, we fasten the sheet to the frame with screws with a pitch of 250 mm, from the transverse end - no closer than 15 mm, from the longitudinal end - 10 mm.
If the length of the sheet was not enough in height, we cut off a piece of the desired size from the new one and fasten it to the frame. How to do this correctly can be found in the article "". Now the fastening of the sheets will take place in a checkerboard pattern.
When joining sheets in height, the seams should not merge into one longitudinal line. They are laid apart or with a shift of at least 400 - 600 mm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to occur. The gap between the floor and the lower edge of the sheet should be 10 - 15 mm.
When sheathing a partition in two layers of drywall, vertical seams should also be shifted. GKL, located on top, must be installed so that the seam of the bottom falls on its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).
On adjacent sheets, fasteners should be located with an offset of 1 - 2 cm. At a right angle, the screw is screwed into the sheet by 1 - 1.5 mm. If the distance is greater, then the drywall will crack, because it is a rather fragile material.
When one of the sides of the partition is covered with drywall, engineering systems and electrical wiring can be placed inside the frame.
Further, in the space between the racks we place insulating material. If it is a separate room, then extraneous noise should not enter it. What materials to produce soundproofing of such structures can be found in the article "".
Now you can veneer the second side of the partition and proceed to the finishing work.

As you can see, do-it-yourself work with drywall is not so difficult - the walls of houses that are made of brick, concrete, adobe or wood can be lined with drywall. There are slight differences in technology, but you are now aware of them. So you can independently make repairs and live in the interior that you like.

During the construction of a private house or the repair of an apartment, the question of leveling the walls inevitably arises. This is necessary to create a smooth surface, which simplifies the process of further finishing - painting or wallpapering. Two methods are suitable for solving this problem: plastering or do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding.

Which of these methods to choose depends on your own building skills, the availability of time and funds.

Advantages of plasterboard wall cladding:

lining can be done in a short time;
as a result, an absolutely flat surface is guaranteed;
under the sheets, you can conduct wiring or a heating system;
you can easily build arches, niches and other design ideas;
it is possible to use vapor barrier films, which will provide additional insulation of the room.

Of the disadvantages, it can be noted that laying drywall reduces the space by several centimeters, but there is a way to avoid this minus. There are two main methods (technologies) for finishing walls with drywall. These methods are fundamentally different from each other.

The material is attached to a metal or wooden frame, pre-installed along the walls.
Drywall is glued directly to the surface. Gluing is made with special glue.

Solving the problem using the second method is somewhat more economical and does not “steal” extra centimeters of space, but it has some contraindications.

Do not glue drywall on excessively curved or wet surfaces. In addition, the wall for pasting should be no higher than 3 meters.

Preparatory stage

Self-cladding walls with drywall sheets requires a responsible approach. Any carelessness or inaccuracy of calculations can spoil the result.

An improperly fixed wall may begin to “play” over time. This may not be visible visually if the wall is covered with wallpaper, but cracks may appear on painted substrates.

Another important point is the load. It should be understood that drywall is not able to withstand objects that are too heavy - large paintings or bookshelves. To solve this problem, you need to plan in advance the placement of heavy objects on the wall and strengthen the frame with additional crossbars that can take on the weight.

Rooms with high humidity - toilet, bath, kitchen need a special approach. The walls of these rooms are recommended to be sheathed with special moisture-resistant drywall.

Previously, such sheets are treated with a waterproofing compound. Perhaps financially such material will cost more, but it serves as an ideal basis for fixing ceramic tiles.

Plasterboard wall installation

For wall cladding with drywall, you will need the following tools and materials:

guide profiles UD;
vertical profiles CD;
drywall sheets;
self-tapping screws for metal (or wood);
drill or screwdriver;
building level;
screwdriver;
hammer;
roulette;
hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
putty knife.

The number of UD profiles should be calculated taking into account the fact that they must be installed around the entire perimeter of the frame. To do this, you need to calculate the area of \u200b\u200bthe working plane. \

CD profiles are installed every 60 cm, so their number is calculated based on the data on the length of the walls and the height of the ceilings. Additional CD elements may be needed to strengthen the structure. You can calculate the number of required metal screws, taking into account their installation step - 60 cm. Wood screws are taken from the calculation: 30 pieces per drywall sheet.

Having prepared all the necessary materials and tools, you can begin to work. Drywall installation is carried out in several stages.

Stage 1: Marking the walls. It is necessary to draw vertical lines from the corners of the room to the ceiling, retreating by 5-10 mm, using the building level and plumb lines. Along the horizontal lines of the floor and ceiling, these lines are connected by lacing. On the bottom line of the created rectangle, marks are drawn in increments of 60 cm - these are marks for future vertical racks.

Stage 2: Mounting the frame. After marking is completed, a frame should be formed from profiles, the installation of which should take place taking into account the placement of window and door openings. The presence of openings can adjust the distance between the racks.

Guide profiles are fastened with dowels or self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter of the surface, in accordance with the calculated offset. Having installed the horizontal profiles, it is necessary to fix the vertical ones in compliance with the step of 60 cm. Horizontal and vertical profiles are connected to each other with special flea screws.

If necessary, the structure can be strengthened by installing U-shaped hangers on vertical rails in increments of 100-150 cm.

At this stage, thermal insulation or sound insulation can be laid under the UD profiles. For this purpose, it is recommended to use mineral fiber materials that can additionally protect against moisture.

Stage 3. Sheathing the frame with drywall. Start the process from the corners or openings of windows or doors. This approach will avoid the formation of cracks near openings or corners.

You need to carefully screw in the screws, given that the material is quite fragile. Fasteners are placed along the vertical guide in increments of 15-25 cm along the entire length of the drywall sheet.

The presence of high ceilings can create a need to add length to a whole sheet of drywall. This can be done by sawing the sheet both along and across. Sheets are installed end-to-end, leaving no gaps between them.

Ceiling sheathing involves exactly the same algorithm of actions. First marking, and then fixing the sheets around the perimeter of the ceiling, starting from the walls. All work is done quite simply, even with your own hands.

Stage 4: Sealing. After completing all the steps for covering the surface, you need to complete the procedure by sealing the seams. To do this, putty or a special mesh is used:

joints must be cleaned of dust, dirt and other unnecessary elements;
then you need to check the density of drowning of the heads of the screws with a spatula;
use a spatula to remove irregularities and dirt on the surface;
in the absence of a groove between the sheets, you need to make it with a construction knife;
then you need to fix the tape on the drywall;
start filling the groove.

There is nothing complicated. The main thing is to follow the rules of the technological process and follow certain recommendations!