Painting of laminated doors. How to paint a laminated door. Painting with alkyd enamel

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I'll tell you about my own chipboard painting experience and film facades in the furniture industry.

Chipboard painting

Chipboard was painted, but rarely when the project indicated that, for example, the outer side wall of the kitchen or the details of the portal should have been the same with painted or patinated facades.

In this case, the chipboard surface was sanded with P220 or coarser paper to break the top protective layer of the laminate on the chipboard to a dull surface. Then paint was applied, but more often they worked according to the scheme - grinding, one layer of soil, grinding, finishing. No adhesives were used.

Problems arose if the edge was poorly glued and after finishing the paint fell into places where the edge did not fit well, worse if it peeled off, but again this was due to poor performance of the pasting equipment, violation of pasting technology.

Painting facades covered with PVC film

It was necessary to resort to the technology of painting film facades in order to simplify the technology of painting facades with complex internal milling.

What were the difficulties?

In addition, it was necessary to apply the insulating primer, sand it, apply the base primer, sand, reapply the primer, and sand again. In the case of the film, it was simply a preliminary grinding of the surface and profile of the MDF facade in PVC film and the application of finishing finishing layers.

It turns out that the technology is reduced to a minimum, well, sometimes they could apply primer to the film before painting, but grinding the primer in this case was much easier than uncoated MDF.

An important point in all this is how well the film is pasted on the MDF facades. If the film flakes off from the edge, if there are inclusions under the film, glue flows, poor-quality milling, poor surface preparation of the facade before pressing, then we will get not advantages, but disadvantages of this technology.

Therefore, the technology of pressing facades in a membrane vacuum press must be at a high level.

In addition, the film itself for the facades must be selected. Firstly, it should be white, and secondly, it will be better if it is intended just for painting, that is, without a protective top coat.

Film suppliers referred to such film as primer film. In principle, just a white film can be used, but a trial application and an adhesion test are necessary.

Interestingly, no adhesive primers were applied to the film facades, it was enough to mat the film by sanding. But, in any case, experiments are always needed, and then the mass application of technology, otherwise the primer may and will be needed to improve the adhesion of the paint to the film or chipboard. For such primers, contact your suppliers, they will help you choose the right paint and varnish materials.

As a rule, old doors have a high-strength panel and a high-quality box, but the appearance deteriorates over time due to a thick coating. As one of the budget renovation methods, ordinary wood door paint is used. In this material, you will learn how to paint wooden doors, and get acquainted with other modern ways to renovate the coating at home.

Rice. 1. Door before and after painting

Choice of paintwork materials

LKM are classified according to the following criteria:

• By composition (on a water and organic basis);
• By protective action (against organic and chemical substances, mechanical influences, changes in humidity and temperature);
• By the method of use (internal, external, combined);
• By type (impregnation, paints, stains, varnishes).

1. Paints. Can be used on new and old doors. There are no difficulties with the choice, but due to incompetence, people choose the wrong material. Paints and varnishes are transparent and opaque. The first compositions include certain pigments that exhibit a woody structure. But opaque coatings are often used, consisting of organic solvents (oil, alkyd and other types).

The most popular is alkyd enamel, the cost of which is affordable. This coating has high strength, a wide range of shades. But the enamel smells bad, its unpleasant smell remains for 2 days, so they work with it on the street, first removing the canvas from the hinges or freeing up the room. An alternative solution is acrylic enamel, which also has many colors but no toxic smell. The dried paint does not have much strength, so it is additionally treated with acrylic varnish to protect it from mechanical stress.

Rice. 2. Paint on wood

A more resistant coating for wood doors is nitro paint, which has optimal strength. The composition is toxic, sometimes leads to allergic manifestations, so you need to work with it in protective equipment. If an old surface is treated with nitro-paint, the preparation and grinding of the panel is carried out in advance to a light shade.

2. Lucky. They belong to the traditional coatings that give wood a shine and protect its surface. Typically, varnish is used to cover doors in rooms with high humidity (baths and saunas).

There are many different varnishes:

• Acrylic. The material is resistant to negative influences, humidity and ultraviolet. Distinguish matte and glossy finish without toxic odor.
• Nitrocellulose. Varnish can be used to process wooden doors. The coating is not suitable for processing bathrooms and baths, as it has insufficient strength and cracks quickly.
• Lacquer with a water base. It does not have an unpleasant odor. Material properties may vary due to different additives.
• Polyurethane. The varnish has high strength and adhesion to wood, it can be matte, semi-gloss and glossy. In addition to wood, polyurethane varnishes can be applied to parquet, veneer, countertops.
• Oil varnish. There is no strong odor. The composition contains a lot of fatty resins, so the old coating is removed from the door in advance. It is better to apply with a brush because of the thick consistency.
• polyester. The composition has a pungent odor, is highly durable, but toxic, therefore it is suitable for processing street doors.

It is better to paint interior doors with an acrylic or polyurethane coating, and resistant materials are suitable for external work or rooms with high humidity..

Rice. 3. Varnish on wood

3. Wood stains. The task of such compositions is toning the tree and temporary protection from negative influences. But a constant renewal of the layer is required, which emphasizes the wood structure.

There are several options:

• With lacquer base (azure). The composition reduces the duration of work, but it is difficult to achieve aesthetics, so a plain surface can be obtained by spraying with an airbrush;
• With oils. Before use it is necessary to dilute with solvent;
• With water. It dries longer, but there is no toxic smell. The composition penetrates deeply, giving a richer shade and a clear pattern that looks beautiful;
• Alcohol based. It dries quickly, but is more expensive and has a strong smell.

Fig.4. Stain for a wooden door

To protect the wood from fungus, moisture and dirt, oil wax is used, which penetrates deep into the surface. Coating adds strength and shine.

If you choose how to stain the surface of the door, then you need to take into account the duration of drying and the effect obtained.

Preparing the canvas for painting

First, the door is removed from the hinges, placed on a flat surface. Before using alkyd paint, it is better to place the canvas on the street or in a well-ventilated area. The door is then locked so that all elements are accessible. The fittings are also removed or wrapped in foil, and the locks are sealed with adhesive tape.

Door cleaning

Preliminary cleaning, removal of old enamel or paint. For such purposes, it is better to use a grinder, and in its absence, you can peel off the layer with medium grit sandpaper. The bubbles that appear are eliminated with a hair dryer, which heats up the paint layer to remove it with a spatula. Washing compositions are a costly and simple way to clean the surface.

Rice. 5. Surface cleaning and grinding

Layers of old paint can be removed with an abrasive nozzle on a drill. Pieces of dust and paint are swept away from the cloth, the surface is polished so that there are no scratches, bumps or roughness. The surface is inspected from both sides, the density of the joints is analyzed, the frame can be strengthened with fasteners and metal corners.

Puttying and sanding

The existing cracks and grooves are sealed with a new putty. For alkyd paint, a composition of any color is suitable, and before applying oil impregnation, varnish or wax, the tone of the putty must match the panel. The dried areas of the door are polished with fine-grained sandpaper. At this stage, any defects are eliminated.

Rice. 6. Putty door

Antiseptic coating

When applying paint, the surface is pre-treated with flame retardant and antiseptic impregnation (for example, biotex) when the door is installed in the steam room. It is advisable to choose the means of one company, which will improve the interaction and quality of coverage.

Rice. 7. Antiseptic for wood

After that, the door must be primed, and then apply a layer of putty. It is necessary to process all areas of the door, as well as gaps in decorative details, between the jamb and the lintel. After the putty dries, the surface is puttied again.

Coloring technology

If a new canvas is being painted, then it should be protected from swelling. Pre-lay it on a flat surface, process it with sandpaper or a grinder. Then the cloth is primed, recesses and flat areas are processed. After drying, the surface is re-treated.

Rice. 8. Directions for painting the canvas

The old door of the house needs to be painted with high quality so that there are no stains and smudges on its surface. It is unlikely that you need to buy a spray gun for painting one or two canvases, so you can use a paneled brush or roller.

After you have chosen how to paint a wooden door, you should familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of the work:

• fluff the brush, removing poorly fixed hairs;
• you need to paint the panel door correctly in 3 stages, using a roller, from the upper left corner you need to move to the right, covering the entire canvas. After drying, the door must be processed in the longitudinal direction. Then you need to paint the canvas from the upper right corner;
• when processing a paneled canvas, you need to use a brush, handle the surface carefully, avoiding excess coating.

Rice. 9. Web processing sequence

Painting with alkyd enamel

To cover the doors with alkyd enamel, the following steps should be followed:

• remove the panel from the hinges so that paint streaks do not appear on the surface. Then, with a spatula and sandpaper, you need to remove scuffs and the old layer, rinse the surface thoroughly and inspect for defects. Chips and cracks are puttied, the surface is dried and sanded with sandpaper. At the last stage, priming is carried out;
• the finished canvas lies on a horizontal surface of the floor, table or workbench, covered with polyethylene. Existing glass is sealed with adhesive tape. At the paneled door, the panels are first painted with a brush, and then the protrusions. In the future, the entire panel is stained with a roller. With a two-layer application of alkyd enamel, the consumption will be 40-80 g / m2;
• in addition, you can tint the canvas under wenge, soaking it with a special composition. The basis of this paint includes natural oils. After a layer of paint has been applied, it must be carried out with a rubber spatula or sponge about 10 times;
• you can take liquid soap with paint. First, the cloth is covered with paint and liquid soap. The soap needs another layer of coating.

Rice. 10. Alkyd enamel for wood surface treatment

Stain processing

When choosing a stain, a primer is not applied. The agent penetrates into the deep layers of pine or oak wood, coloring its fibers and increasing the protective performance. There are several ways to apply the composition: rubbing, spraying, simple application and staining with a brush. Usually a simple application is used..

Rice. 11. Processing the canvas with stain

Since the stain will lie better on a damp canvas, it needs to be slightly moistened. First, the coloring is carried out along the fibers, and then across them. The next layer is carried out in the direction of the fibers. From below we process a panel with jambs so as not to disturb the design of the structure.

After the water-based stain has been applied, the surface should be sanded with a zero-grain sandpaper (due to raised fibers), remove dust and apply the next coat of coating. If an alcohol stain is used, the fibers do not rise and no sanding is required. But water formulations do not have an unpleasant odor and toxicity.

Oil or wax impregnations

There are nuances in processing the canvas with oil impregnation. First, the composition of Pinotex is well mixed. If applied incorrectly, dark areas and stripes may appear. For work, a brush, sprayer, roller or sponge made of foam rubber is used. Depending on the porosity of the material, the number of layers will be calculated.

Rice. 12. Wax application

First, they collect a little composition, distributing it evenly over the width of the panel. Then the impregnation is rolled out with a roller or rubbed with a brush without sagging. Drying time is 8-12 hours. No later than a day later, another layer is applied.

wood look

To paint interior doors under a tree with your own hands was done correctly, follow the instructions:

• we apply light paint (beige, white, gray or yellow) to the building material;
• the dried surface is treated with liquid soap;
• cover with dark paint, remove liquid soap.

The wood structure can be made on veneered material, processing the fibers with a special brush (the effect of "antique" is obtained). Then one or more paint and varnish coatings must be applied to the surface and sanded.

How to paint laminated doors

Compared to natural wood doors, laminated products are aesthetically pleasing, easy to use and affordable. To process laminated doors, you will need a roller or brush, wood putty with a spatula, sandpaper, rags, solvent and special enamel.

The surface is completely sanded, cleaned with a rag from dust and puttied with a thin layer. After the putties have dried, they are treated with sandpaper, applied a second time and again after drying they are polished. Before painting, the composition is diluted with a solvent. The paint is applied carefully, paying attention to hard-to-reach areas. After 3 layers, the result is fixed with varnish.

Rice. 13. Varnishing wood surface

If there are no defects, you can update the laminated coating. Suitable tinted varnish or stain, which is applied after sanding and tinting.

The choice of the color of the panel is carried out based on the wishes. The main recommendations include:

• drying the surface before applying alkyd enamel;
• combination of the shade of the canvas with furniture;
• the choice of a solid wood door covered with oil impregnation for a wooden dwelling;
• a combination of an aged door with antiques;
• choice of dark tinted door for lacquered furnishings;
• the use of water-based paints.

In the process of painting the door, you must follow the technique and safety measures.

Sometimes the interior of the house is boring and boring. Then there is a desire to change it or supplement it with something new. Particularly susceptible to aging and tarnishing are doors. although they are the most reliable and durable, but their frequent use erases the brilliance and beauty, leaves minor scratches.

Such doors are full-bodied and are made by pressing lumber waste, so painting MDF at home is difficult, but possible. It will also give your home an updated look.

In order to paint the doors, you will need paint for MDF. On some plates, this coating falls easily, on others - with difficulty. Such properties depend on the components from which the plate was made. The fraction of the material causes the coating that is applied to them to absorb too quickly.

In order for the color to lay down evenly, you need to choose one for MDF doors, which is suitable for the chemical composition of the material being painted.

Therefore, when choosing paintwork materials for work, it is necessary:

• choose paints without a strong odor, for example, water-based;
• quick-drying. These include acrylic-based paints;
• with a high percentage of adhesion for strong adhesion of the coating and the surface of the object;
• with little expense;
• a certain color, so that the door harmoniously fits into the interior of the apartment.

Now on sale there is a special polyurethane paint for MDF. It is an environmentally friendly coating material, odorless and volatile components. Possesses high wear resistance and resistance to chemical elements.

Tools

To paint the surface of an MDF door, we need certain tools.

• Tassels. Narrow for small parts and hard-to-reach places and large. Instead of a large one, you can use a roller or spray gun. The pile on the brush should not climb, so you need to buy a quality tool. Otherwise, then you have to collect hairs from the brush all over the door.
• Roller must be terry or woolen, because foam slips on the surface.
• Mixer or drill with nozzle for mixing the coating composition.
• Special bath for working with paint, if a roller is used during application, or a small jar so that you can dip the brush into it.
• Stencils, adhesive tape, scissors, zero sandpaper.

How to paint an MDF door?

In order to paint or repaint from one color to another MDF door at home, it is necessary to lay the floor of the workplace with paper so as not to get dirty in the process. Place two timbers under the surface to be painted. This is done so that in the future, without effort, turn the canvas to the other side. MDF doors can be painted not only new ones, which are made specifically for painting, but also repainted from one color to another.

The procedure is quite simple and does not require any special costs or efforts. MDF doors are painted in several layers. Before each application, the previous layer must dry completely. But first you need to prepare the canvas.

Preparatory stage

For painting MDF at home, the door is removed from the hinges, freed from fittings, placed on prepared bars. With the help of heating, the old coating is removed, the material itself is prepared for staining. MDF is carefully sanded with sandpaper.

It is better not to use other tools, as the material can be damaged. The remaining debris from grinding is collected and mixed with PVA glue, used as a means to get rid of various defects that appeared during grinding.

If there are glass inserts in the door, then they must be sealed with adhesive tape so that paint does not get in and does not bring additional trouble.

After the MDF door is sanded, leveled, they proceed to the process of priming the surface. This is a very important point before staining.

Padding

Before painting MDF doors with paint, a primer layer must be applied. To do this, you can use drying oil. It is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the primer. Then again inspect the surface for defects and scratches. If necessary, cover all cracks, chips with putty and sand thoroughly.

Then two more coats of primer should be applied so that it can clog all the pores and reduce the amount of absorbed paintwork material.

And only after completion of a thorough priming of the surface and complete drying, you can proceed to painting.

Painting stage

In the event that MDF doors are purchased for painting, we skip the first two stages. When the product is prepared, you can not be afraid and start painting the MDF with your own hands. It is necessary to paint over the ends and small details well. An alternative method of application is to spray paint if you do not want to mess around with a roller or brush. But, first you need to paint well all hard-to-reach places with a narrow brush.

After the first layer has been applied, it must be allowed to dry completely. Small stains will remain on the surface, but they will then be closed by the next layer. And, after the second layer dries, you can apply the final third.

When using a water-based or special polyurethane paint, a layer of dried coating on the surface will never prevent MDF doors from closing, as is the case if they are painted with nitro enamel.

antique

Glezal thinner can be used as a finishing layer. It will stiffen the fibers of a medium density MDF sheet. It also contributes to the creation of a textured surface. With this thinner, you can achieve this type of door decoration, such as "antique", "Venetian coating", "imitation bark beetle" and much more. The final step in painting will be applying a layer of varnish.

For a decorative and protective coating of a wooden door, there is a wide range of paint and varnish products on sale. The article will focus on what paint to paint doors in different operating conditions.

1. What paint is better to paint wooden doors
   • Mordants
   • Paints
2. How to paint doors
   • Surface preparation
   • How to fix cracks and chips
   • door sanding
   • Primer application
   • Applying the finish paint
3. Stain painting

What paint is better to paint wooden doors

Lucky

This is a traditional wood finish. It adds shine, preserves the color of the material and protects it. Lacquer, as a rule, is chosen to cover doors in baths or saunas. It is most convenient for them to cover new products, since old ones will require careful preparation, which includes grinding the entire canvas to its original light color. True, you can immediately choose a tinted varnish, which will give color and varnish in one step.

Varnishes, although they seem universal at first glance, have different compositions and purposes.

• Nitrocellulose lacquer is suitable for covering wooden doors in residential areas. It is not recommended to use it in baths or bathrooms due to the low strength of the resulting coating. It can crack quickly.
• Acrylic lacquer. Resistant to UV rays and adverse effects. It can be glossy or matte, most often it does not have an unpleasant odor. The door processed by him can be washed.
• Polyurethane varnish. Possesses high adhesion with a wooden surface of a door and high strength characteristics. There are glossy, semi-gloss and matte finishes. They are suitable for application not only on wood, but also on veneer, parquet, countertops. Resistant to abrasion, but gives yellow to light wood.
• Water based varnish. It dries for a long time and has no unpleasant smell. Their properties can vary greatly, as manufacturers include different additives. More accurate information can only be found on the jar with the composition.
• Polyester varnish. They are toxic and have a pungent odor, which is why they are chosen for painting wooden doors on the street. Creates a particularly durable coating.

Tip: if the door of a street building is being painted, it is important where the work is done and with what composition. If it is located in the sun, then it is worth choosing long-drying compositions, which, when heated, penetrate the structure of the tree better and are applied more evenly. If the varnish is fast drying, it will evaporate too quickly, which will lead to uneven painting. It is even better if the door is first removed from the hinges and painted indoors. This will help keep dust and insects away.

• Oil varnishes. They are characterized by a high content of fatty resins, therefore they are incompatible with some paintwork surfaces. Therefore, before applying, it is necessary to completely clean the wooden door from the old coating. The consistency is quite thick, so it is more even to lay down with a brush than with a spray gun. They do not have a strong odor. Wax oil varnishes are able to lighten soft woods.

Now about how to paint wooden doors: for interior doors, a varnish based on polyurethane or acrylic will be the best choice. But for outdoor work or for bath doors, it is best to choose resistant varnishes, the so-called deck varnishes.

Mordants

Their task is to tint wood and short-term protection from adverse factors. But such a coating needs to be constantly updated. Their main advantage is that they do not hide, but rather emphasize the beautiful structure of the tree.

There are 4 types of stains available:

• based on alcohol - dries the fastest, but has a pungent odor and a higher price;
• water-based - it will take longer to dry, but it does not have an unpleasant odor. Suitable only for interior work in rooms with normal humidity;
• based on oils - before use, they must be diluted with solvents, such as acetone;
• on a varnish basis - most often called azure. Despite the fact that they significantly reduce paint work, it is quite difficult to achieve a beautiful result. To obtain a smooth, uniform surface, it should be sprayed with an airbrush.

Tip: when choosing between a quick-drying stain and a slow-drying stain, you must take into account not only the time of their drying, but also the result obtained. So, water-based compounds penetrate deeper into the wood, making the color more saturated and the pattern clearer. If the pattern is not important, but you need a quick result or a light color, then alcohol stains are recommended to choose.

Paints

With the help of paints, you can not only paint new doors, but also restore old canvases. The main thing is to understand the types of paint and choose the right one.

• Paints related to opaque coatings are made on the basis of organic solvents, such as polyurethane, acrylic, etc. This group also includes water-dispersion acrylic coatings. Despite their toxicity and fire hazard, they are very popular due to the ease of application and the high quality of the resulting coating.
• When choosing which paint to paint interior doors, most often they stop their choice on alkyd paints that have water-repellent properties. They lie superficially, without penetrating into the wood structure, and form a dense, strong film up to 1 mm thick. When working, it is important to observe one nuance: application is possible only on a completely dry surface, otherwise air bubbles will form, which will lead to further cracking of the paint.

• To date, oil paints based on drying oil have practically disappeared from the sale. This is due to the high price and low strength characteristics of the protective layer. Sometimes it is replaced with oxoli alkyd resin, this reduces the cost, but the composition acquires a sharp unpleasant odor that lasts for several days.
• The most popular are acrylic and polyurethane paints based on organic solvents. This is especially true for water-dispersion compositions, water is used as a solvent (this is a classic version of white painted Canadian doors). They are odorless and create a vapor-permeable coating. When they dry, a film is formed that protects the wooden door from moisture and temperature changes. But when frozen in a jar, they lose their properties.
• Paints are universal, they can be used to paint both prepared wood and directly on the old coating.

How to paint doors

Before painting wooden doors, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work.

Surface preparation

Most often this applies to no longer new doors that require restoration or just an update. Preparatory work, first of all, involves the removal of the old paintwork. This is done either with sandpaper or with a spatula. But both of these options will take a very long time. Let's see how to simplify the task.

• Warm up the surface with a building hair dryer. This household tool is often in demand and is inexpensive, so almost every home craftsman has it. Unlike domestic, it has significantly more power and heats up more. It is enough just to bring it to the old paint for a few minutes, as it will begin to bubble. After that, cleaning it with a spatula is much easier and faster. You have to work with gloves. Inexpensive hair dryers quickly overheat, so you can not work for a long time.

Tip: when cleaning a wooden door with a building hair dryer, you must not set the temperature above 220oC, otherwise the wood structure will be severely damaged and will collapse faster in the future.

• Paint wash. This is the name of special chemical compositions designed to remove paint. In appearance, it is a gel-like mass of a transparent color or with a slight tint. There are several types of them on sale, in this case, you need to choose a wash, the label of which indicates that it is intended for wood. It is easy to work with it, it is enough to spread it evenly over the entire surface of the door with a brush and leave it for 30 minutes (the paint should begin to peel off). Then it is cleaned with a spatula or scraper. When preparing the surface of the door in this way, it is impossible to immediately proceed to subsequent painting. At first, everything is thoroughly wiped with a dry cloth, then washed with soapy water and allowed to dry.

Tip: All paint removers have a strong odor that can make you dizzy. Therefore, it is recommended to take security measures. If, after applying the gel, immediately cover the surface with a film (ordinary food film is also suitable), then the smell will be somewhat less, and the effect of the composition is better.

• folk method. It has been tested for years, it will require acetone, film and a spray bottle. With the help of sprayers, acetone is sprayed on the surface of the wooden door and immediately, preferably in several layers, a film is applied. It is important that it fits snugly, without air access. As a result, after 15 minutes, the paint will begin to bubble and move away. But the composition of acetone adversely affects the wood.

How to fix cracks and chips

• Wood is a rather vulnerable material. Therefore, during the operation of a wooden door, chips, dents or cracks often form on it. During restoration, they can be repaired so that after painting they will become invisible.
• To mask minor defects, wood putty is useful, for large ones - furniture wax. Outwardly, they are easy to distinguish, the latter looks like a dense bar, and putty, like all analogues, has a pasty consistency. All types of repair compositions for wood have a palette of shades that are closest to natural. You need to choose the one closest to the color of the door being repaired.
• Before restoring the door, cleaned of paint, wipe it with a rag soaked in a solvent. Then a little putty is taken with a small spatula and the gap is tightly filled. The surface is immediately smoothed so that no grooves remain. It is convenient to work with a rubber spatula, which is used to grout when laying tiles.
• When closing a large flaw, a little furniture wax is heated with a soldering iron with a thick tip. A softened, but not liquid, mixture is applied to the area to be repaired. If the curly part is broken, then with a mass you need to try to repeat its contour. If a gap is closed on a flat surface, then the patch should protrude somewhat. This is necessary in order to then smooth and smooth it with sandpaper.

• When working with wax or putty, although it turns out to mask the chip under the tone, it will still stand out due to the lack of a wood texture pattern. But there is a way out here too. On sale there are special furniture markers, which are also matched to the color. With their help, lines are applied that repeat the pattern of the base. It is cheap, in the range of 50 - 100 rubles. Paint them at the last stage before applying varnish or stain.

door sanding

• Often even a new wooden door needs to be sanded. If it even has small chips, scuffs or bumps, this procedure should not be missed. This is done either with a grinder or manually with sandpaper.
• For the convenience of working by hand, you can screw a piece of skin onto self-tapping screws or fix it with nails to a small bar. The main thing is that the hats are recessed and cannot scratch the surface. First, the processing is carried out with coarse-grained paper, and only then with fine-grained paper. It is recommended to pay special attention to the ends with cross cuts, which, as a rule, always have a roughness.

• Grinders significantly speed up the workflow. For primary rough processing, a circular grinder is required, and for finishing, a belt grinder. If the door has patterns or relief, then you can not do without hand skins.

Primer application

To apply the primer, a roller with a small nap, a brush, a sponge or an airbrush may be useful. It is important that brushes or rollers do not leave fluff or hairs. It is enough just to touch them with your hand before starting work.

As a rule, primers are colorless and have a very liquid consistency, so applying them is not difficult. But here are some tips for this:

• it is more convenient to apply impregnations and stains on a wooden door with a swab made from a natural sponge;
• primers on a water basis and on alkyd are applied with brushes, carefully rubbing so that smudges do not form. Brush movements should be orderly from top to bottom or vice versa.

After the primer layer has dried, check the surface by hand. Sometimes the composition raises the villi, making the wood rough to the touch. It is required once again to lightly walk with the finishing skin with the finest grain.

Applying the finish paint

• If there was no special primer at hand, you can make it yourself from the paint that is intended for the door. To do this, it is diluted with a solvent in a ratio of 1: 2. It is more convenient to apply it with a brush. In the future, this contributes to a more even color and the absence of non-paints.

• Mix the paint well before use. At one time it will not be possible to uniformly paint the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe door. And do not try to do this by applying too thick a layer of paint. If any place remains lighter, it will be closed by subsequent layers.
• If the door was not removed before painting, and it is in a vertical position, then work begins from above, gradually going down. This will avoid the influx of drops on the previously painted surface. With a horizontal arrangement of the canvas, you can paint as you like, but adhering to a given direction, without chaotic strokes and docking points.
• The first layer is left to dry completely. Time individually, depends not only on the composition, but also on the temperature and humidity of the environment. As a rule, it takes no more than a day for alkyd paints.

Tip: when buying paintwork materials in a store, the buyer tries to choose a composition that dries as quickly as possible. The best indicators in this regard are water-based paints. But they are characterized by low moisture resistance, so they are not recommended for painting a wooden door in a bath.

• When dry, carefully inspect the surface. Almost always, paint will pick up wood fibers that have been smoothed out by sanding. You can’t leave them, you have to go through the sandpaper again. It's okay if the wood starts to shine a little somewhere, but still, this should be avoided.
• The second layer is recommended to be applied across the door leaf. As in the first case, you can not make too thick a layer of paint. After drying, the surface should already be absolutely smooth. Often two coats are enough, but if there is doubt about the uniformity of the coating, then the last third coat is applied.

Stain painting

Painting a wooden door with wood stains is different from painting paintwork materials.

• Stains, regardless of the basis on which they are produced, have a rather liquid consistency. In order for the color to lie evenly, the wood is moistened with water before painting, which contributes to less absorption of the composition and more even distribution.
• If the door is located vertically, it is necessary to apply the stain from the bottom up so that its drops do not fall on the still unpainted surface. This also applies to the door frame with slopes.
• When painting in a horizontal plane, the first layer is applied along the wood fibers. After drying, the second time the composition lays down already across, and the third finish again along. Thanks to this, uniform toning of all elements and from all sides is achieved. Here it should be noted that after drying, the color will be slightly lighter than when applied. Therefore, more layers are sometimes required to achieve the desired result.

• Like paint, stain raises the fibers, forming a rough surface, which must be sanded again with a zero.
• When using an alcohol-based stain, you will not have to re-sand, as it does not pick up the fibers. In addition, the drying time is only half an hour. But still, the first place in popularity is occupied by aqueous solutions, due to their environmental friendliness and non-toxicity.

How to paint laminated doors

Laminate coating, especially in interior doors, replaces natural wood products. They look beautiful, can imitate expensive wood species, are easy to use and, compared to solid wood doors, are affordable. It is no wonder that they occupy the honorable first place among the doors installed in apartments and country houses. Despite the durability of the material, they are also subject to mechanical damage. But many owners do not know if it is possible to paint laminated doors and, having thrown them away, buy new ones. Next, consider how to restore it with painting.

If you need to mask stains or scratches, then you will have to choose opaque paints. Also for work you will need:

• brush or roller;
• spatula and putty for wood;
• rags;
• sandpaper;
• solvent;
• enamel for laminated surfaces.

Stages of work

• Lamination on the door has low adhesion with all materials. If you just start applying it, it will slide off, forming smudges and spots.
• Therefore, the entire surface must be carefully sanded and brushed off with a dry cloth all the dust that has formed.
• The entire door is covered with a thin layer of putty. The thinner and more uniform the layer, the better it will adhere to the surface, creating a durable coating. When it dries, it is lightly sanded with a sandpaper-zero, focusing on possible irregularities. Then the second layer is applied and also leveled by grinding after drying. In addition, this will make the surface rougher, which guarantees better adhesion to the top coat.
• For painting a laminated door, it is better to prepare a more liquid paint composition, for which it is diluted with a solvent twice. (It is recommended to choose a composition diluted with white spirit).
• In the absence of a spray gun, work is best done with a brush. She carefully applies paint, rubbing it into all hard-to-reach places. It is important to ensure that there are no sagging. It is better not to paint over than to apply too much. If this could not be avoided, then after drying it is cleaned with sandpaper.

• To consolidate the result, varnish is applied after three layers of paint.

In the case when the laminated door has no defects, but you just want to update it, you can use a stain or tinted varnish (the latter can only be applied with an airbrush). The technology will be reduced only to grinding, toning and further varnishing. Therefore, if there is any doubt about whether it is possible to paint veneered doors or from any other materials, then, subject to the above technology, this is permissible.

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