Features of the installation of electrical wiring in rooms made of various building materials. Concealed wiring is convenient and economical! The sequence of installation of hidden electrical wiring

Concealed wiring is not as difficult as it might seem. And today we will tell you exactly about this, because it is the conduction of electrical wiring "in a closed" one that is much more aesthetic and, accordingly, a popular way.

What is important: by installing hidden wiring, you preserve the interior of your own apartment. We will undertake to tell you how to carry out high-quality hidden electrical wiring in the walls in your home by our own efforts, without spending money on inviting an electrician.

Benefits of hidden wiring

Hidden wiring is a great option for capital repairs or total replacement of wiring in the house.

The most tangible benefits are:

  • as mentioned above, the interior of the rooms is preserved, because all the wiring is hidden in the walls or in a space closed from the eyes with plasterboard sheets;
  • higher fire safety (after all, if the walls are made of non-combustible materials - gypsum, concrete or brick, then the ignited wiring will not cause a fire);
  • increasing the service life of the network, because it is correctly protected both from mechanical influences and from other negative external factors (for example, from ultraviolet radiation).

However, there was room for shortcomings. The most notable of them are some laboriousness of installation in comparison with the open method (although it is worth it), as well as the complexity, if necessary, to carry out repair work. The reason for this, of course, is clear - in the event of any malfunction (for example, a wire breakage or burnout), you will have to destroy the wall decoration. But whatever one may say, the closed wiring method is much more reliable. So, we figured out the disadvantages and advantages - this means that you can get down to business.

Installation: step by step instructions

Consider the procedure for laying electrical wiring using the example of a house with concrete or brick walls.

Create a schema

Creating a circuit involves drawing a special plan on which it is noted: the path of the power line, the location of sockets, switches, power boxes and lighting devices in each individual room. This scheme is also useful for calculating the amount of materials used. An illustrative example for a one-room apartment or house:

  • make sure that the cable runs exclusively in vertical and horizontal positions, and that a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the route to the floor or ceiling is maintained;
  • remember that it is always done at the entrance to the room, and (although not regulated by any GOSTs or other regulatory documents) should be as convenient as possible for a person (so in the kitchen sockets are mounted behind the countertop, in the living room - behind the TV, etc.);
  • take into account that the distance from the power line to the batteries, pipeline and ventilation ducts must be at least 50 centimeters (this is stated by the PUE).

We prepare materials and tools

This stage involves counting the number of switches, sockets, the required cable length and other network elements. It will also be necessary to perform in order to determine the diameter of the cores.

In no case should you neglect the calculation- this is fraught with the fact that a too thin conductor will not cope with the load coming to it from powerful household appliances.

When the calculation is completed, select the necessary switches and sockets (for example, only waterproof models of products are mounted in the bathroom).

The minimum set of materials is as follows:

  • gypsum solution;
  • insulating tape;
  • terminal blocks;
  • protective corrugated pipe (optional);
  • cable - commonly used;
  • distribution wiring;
  • socket boxes;
  • sockets;
  • switches.

The minimum set of tools, in turn, looks like this:

  • Master OK;
  • simple pencil;
  • building level;
  • screwdriver;
  • a special tool for stripping insulation from wires;
  • multimeter;
  • hammer;
  • chisel;
  • a tool for chipping walls (both a wall chaser and a perforator or grinder are suitable).

We make grooves for wiring

When all the necessary set of tools and materials is ready, we proceed to chipping. To do this, special markings are applied to the walls, thanks to which you can conveniently navigate when making recesses. By the way, the procedure can be simplified by using a chalk-colored rope or a special marking cord.

When the markings are applied, we take the tool and make grooves in the walls with it. If you have a grinder in your hands, you need to cut two parallel lines with a distance of 3-4 centimeters between them, after which it remains to hollow out the strobe with a hammer and chisel. The depth of the groove depends on the cross-section of the cable and is determined taking into account a small margin (it is associated with the subsequent plastering).


Of course, the best device for wall chasing is a specialized tool, also known as a chaser. The groove cutter will cut the grooves quickly and without unnecessary hassle. The only catch is that the cost of the tool is quite high and it makes no sense to purchase it for a one-time use.

The last step in the grooving step is to create special grooves for sockets and junction boxes. Here a drill with a crown nozzle with a diameter of 6.8 centimeters will save. And when the grooves are ready, we proceed to the installation. For reliability, socket boxes and boxes "sit" on a plaster mortar, which securely fixes the plastic to the concrete wall. In this case, the edges of the products are placed flush with the surface - this will facilitate the procedure for decorative wall decoration in the future.

Cabling

Next, we lay a line, placing the cable along the strobes. First, the conductor mode is for segments of the length we need (for example, a segment from the distribution box to the outlet, and so on), leaving a margin for connecting the cores. Next, we fix the cable in the grooves with plaster mortar. When the work is done, it remains to call the hidden wiring to check the correctness of the connections, as well as the general performance of the network. Are you sure everything is fine? So, you can safely putty the wall!

I would like to make a separate reservation regarding the use of corrugated tubes when laying a cable. Protective corrugation is designed to keep the line from all kinds of harmful mechanical loads, shocks and similar phenomena. However, the use of such material is a purely individual thing.

This is where the hidden wiring in the house or apartment ends. We can make sure that there is nothing particularly difficult or incomprehensible in the procedure. The main thing is to be careful, as well as observe the color coding of the wires when making connections. In the end, it remains to install sockets with switches, as well as protective automatics in the dashboard (after which you can start installing chandeliers and arranging rooms).

A few words about drywall

We talked about installing wiring in concrete and brick walls. However, they did not mention the now widespread material - drywall, in which cable laying is much easier. It is easier because there is no need to perform strobing here.

The line of force is drawn under the sheets of drywall between the metal profiles:



Concealed wiring is used when you need to hide the elements of the electrical system under the covering of walls, ceilings or floors. The need for such a wiring is usually due to aesthetic reasons, since the hidden laying of cables and wires allows you to avoid damage to the appearance of the premises.

Basic requirements for wiring

When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to adhere to a number of requirements:

  1. Providing fire safety. First of all, this concerns the materials used (all wiring components must have fire safety certificates), as well as the installation technology. It is in connection with strict fire safety requirements that the wiring is laid in a corrugated pipe, a rigid structure made of steel or PVC.
  2. Modular type of system. This requirement is intended to facilitate the replacement of system components as needed.
  3. Having a clear plan for finding cables and other elements of the system. In emergency situations, the diagram will help you quickly find the required section of the cable.
  4. The use of three-core cables with an indispensable connection of the ground wire. This requirement is governed by the Rules for Electrical Installations.
  5. The need for the presence of the ability to automatically turn off the power supply in the event of breakdowns in the system.
  6. The wiring should be done clearly vertically or horizontally. Deviations are not allowed.
  7. Intertwining cables should be completely avoided. In extreme cases, if you cannot do without intersections, you will need to provide at least 3-meter distances between the outer layers of the wires.
  8. According to the rules (PES), you need to keep the distance from the wires to the ceiling - 15 centimeters, and from the openings of the windows and the door - at least 10 centimeters.
  9. Do not bind the cables with twists. Connections can be made using terminal blocks or plastic caps.

Necessary materials

High-quality hidden wiring is impossible without the selection of quality materials. The conductors of the cables must be made of copper. The use of wiring with aluminum conductors is possible only for low-power lighting networks. The recommended core thickness in the power section is 2.5 millimeters, and the lighting network is 1.5 millimeters. The cable must be accompanied by a certificate of conformity from Rostest-Moscow and a fire safety certificate. The same documents must be accompanied by shields and switches.

The optimal brands of cable for hidden wiring can be:

  • VVG - cable wrapped in two layers of polyvinyl chloride, and without a layer of protection;
  • PVA - PVC-sheathed cable.

Disconnection methods

Two types of connections are used: box and loop. Both methods will be briefly discussed below.

This kind of disconnection is a classic. In recent times, this method was practically the only one. The essence of the method: the use of a single power cable, spread out over the entire area of ​​the house. Further, from the power cable, layouts are made to the desired rooms. After that, the wires are connected to the electric points. Branching of cables is made in a junction box. The main advantage of this method is the rational consumption of wires. The disadvantage is the unmanageability of individual network components using a distribution board.


Loopback

This disconnection method is an innovation in recent years. Today, this is considered optimal. The distribution board is installed at the entrance to the house. A pair of wires goes from the dashboard to the required rooms, one of them for sockets, the other for supplying light.

The distribution board is equipped with an auto-switch for both wires, as well as a special emergency shutdown device for all rooms. This method is costly due to the additional need for a cable, but from a safety point of view, it is more reliable than the classics.

Loopback is versatile because it allows you to control the electrical network in a building by turning on or off unnecessary system components.

Note! When purchasing a cable, you need to provide for some uncertainty in the planned amount of material. It is more correct to buy a little more cable. The same principle applies to other materials.

The order of work for the installation of wiring

Concealed wiring is laid in specially made grooves - grooves. After laying, the grooves are covered with a layer of plaster. Wires with a double layer of insulation are easier to lay in grooves without the use of additional protection. The disadvantage of this approach is that in the future such wiring cannot be replaced without destroying the wall covering. An alternative method is wiring in cable ducts and fireproof pipes. However, this method is much more labor intensive.

The installation of the wiring is preceded by the layout of the future system. On the walls and ceilings of the room, they mark the places where sockets and switches, junction boxes will be installed. Also, the marking of the lines of the future grooving is carried out. Recesses are made to install the socket outlets. Before installing the socket outlets, the grooves are filled with a plaster mixture - flush with the wall. The next step is to create a strobe of the required length and depth.

Wall chipping

Installation of hidden wiring is carried out in grooves, the places for which must be marked in advance. In this case, the marking should be made in such a way that, in the course of work, do not stumble upon reinforcing bars. Using a metal detector will help here.

The optimum groove width is equal to the cable thickness. In this case, the cable "sits" tightly in the furrow without falling out of it. To lay one three-core VVG-type cable with a 4-mm cross-section of cores, you will need a groove 7-10 mm deep.

Note! You cannot make grooves in load-bearing walls. Based on this requirement, a sufficient thickness of the plaster will be required, where the strobe will be laid.

To mount the socket outlets, it is necessary to make a recess in the wall with a perforator. To do this, you need a special attachment, the so-called "crown".


To carry out drilling work on concrete walls, a powerful rock drill (from 1000 W) will be optimal. If this is not available, you can use a household rotary hammer. However, then you need to change the tools one by one. A crown is applied alternately, and after reaching a 2-3 mm depression, a 6 mm drill.

With a drill we drill a whole series of holes along the entire line of the groove, the beginning of which has already been laid by the use of a crown. The distance between the holes should be small. We drill with a drill to a depth of 2-3 centimeters. Then we use the crown again, which will deepen the furrow. We repeat the operations until the required depth is reached for mounting the socket. After that, we take a perforator and chip off the concrete in the center, where we put the socket box.

If in the future cable channels and pipes will be used, then we proceed to their installation in the done grooves, so that they are directed to the previously supplied socket boxes. Next, we lay the cables and wires. We insert the wiring into the channels and pipes using a metal wire. If the wiring is carried out without pipes, then we fix the cables and wires in the furrow with alabaster mortar. We fill the ends of the electrical wiring into the socket boxes, while cutting off the ends that are too long.

Installing floor wiring

This method will make it possible to do without unnecessary grooving of the walls. The option is optimal if a cement screed with a thickness of 4-5 centimeters is planned. A special polyethylene sheath can be used to protect the wiring. Power cables are laid in a similar way, since sockets are often placed near the floor surface. In this case, only the places where the wires are supplied to the electric points need to be channeled.


Ceiling wiring installation

Wires can also be routed under ceilings such as drywall sheets. However, concealed wiring can also be installed without cladding panels. This is due to the presence of cavities between the slabs over the entire length of the slabs.


The cavities can become natural grooves to accommodate multiple wires. To find the cavity, you need to make a hole in the floor slab. You will also need a hole for the lighting fixture. To insert the wire, we use a metal wire, with the help of which it will stretch the cable along the entire length of the plate. We cover the excess cavities with putty. This method is widely used for lighting in buildings.

Combining socket boxes into one block

Sockets (electrical, television, telephone, as well as switches) are often connected into a single unit. This results in space savings, more comfortable operation of the devices, as well as aesthetic benefits. To install the unit, you need special latches called cable ducts. The connection of the socket outlets is shown in the figure below.


A group of socket-outlets is mounted in prepared recesses. Moreover, the holes should be drilled in a straight line and very close to each other (at a millimeter distance). During installation and connection, as well as during operation, the metal cases of the sockets must be tightly joined together.

Switchboard installation

The installation of hidden wiring includes the installation of a distribution board and circuit breakers. This stage is carried out taking into account the groups involved. Since each group has its own automaton, with which it is associated. In addition to an output machine for one pole, a common machine is needed, as well as an introductory machine for two poles. The phase wire is connected to one pole, and to the other - the neutral wire of the input cable. If there is a common distribution board, which includes electricity meters, you can connect to a group of machines that power this particular room.


If you need to make grounding, the grounding niche located in the shield is connected to the neutral grounding wire. This wire branches off from the incoming supply cable (3-wire single phase system). In the absence of a neutral ground wire, but there is a working neutral wire, you can connect a grounding bus to it, at the location of the input machine. The zero common bus is connected to the zero output of the input machine.

If an introductory machine is installed, the safety of work inside the dashboard increases, for example, when changing machines. is made after the introductory, but before the exit machine.

The ability to turn off the input machine contributes to the safe work inside the switchboard, for example, replacing the output machines when they fail. The metering device (electric meter) is installed in front of the output machine, as well as after the introductory one.

The nuances of installing wiring in a wooden house

Installation of wiring in a wooden structure has a number of features. The nuances are associated with high fire safety requirements.

Based on the above, you need to follow some rules:

  1. It is recommended not to make cable connections, even if they are in terminal blocks or junction boxes. Hidden wiring should be located in a single piece of cable - from the machine to the place of electricity consumption.
  2. Cables are laid in pipes. In this case, the protective components must be in close contact with each other.
  3. The cables must be free inside the pipes so that there are clearances.
  4. The sockets are installed in corrosion-resistant copper socket boxes.
  5. Cables must be non-combustible and have a special fire protection backing.
  6. It is mandatory to ground metal pipes.
  7. The metal elements of the system must be fireproofed.

The safety of the residents of the house in the future depends on how correctly the installation of hidden wiring is carried out. The wiring requires the work of a professional electrician. Therefore, if confidence in your own skills is not enough, it is better to entrust the work to specialists.

Today, there are different methods of creating wiring in a house or apartment. When performing major repairs, electrical communications are most often carried out in a hidden way. This procedure can be done by hand. Before that, you need to familiarize yourself with the existing norms and requirements that are put forward for this process.

The foreman must have basic skills in working with an electrician. In this case, you can do the work yourself. How the installation of hidden wiring is carried out will be discussed later.

general characteristics

Concealed electrical wiring is one of the best solutions when performing major repairs in an apartment or house. In this case, the wires will pass under the surface of the walls. Also, this option is chosen if the construction of the house has not yet been completed. When the walls are kicked out, the floors are created, you can start creating the hidden type wiring.

In this case, it is necessary to develop a project on which all elements of the system should be applied with an indication of the actual dimensions. There are several ways to install hidden wiring. At the same time, home owners choose the option that is most suitable for the building.

The presented type of installation has many advantages. However, special requirements are put forward for the creation of this type of system. It is very important to comply with all provisions of the standards. Otherwise, the use of such a system would be unsafe. This may result in a fire. This leads to damage to property, and is also a threat to human life and health.

Advantages

Hidden wiring in a home has many advantages. First of all, it should be noted that interior decoration will be more aesthetic. On the surface of the walls there will be no unseemly, etc. This allows you to implement different design solutions, create a fashionable style of the interior.

The wires will be reliably protected from mechanical damage. This allows you to significantly extend their service life. Also, the hidden type of wiring is distinguished by high fire safety if the installation is carried out in a house made of bricks or concrete blocks.

In this case, the cable runs in a sealed channel. If the insulation is broken and a fire source appears, it will quickly go out. Insufficient oxygen contributes to rapid decay. This is another important advantage of the hidden method of conducting electrical communications. However, the presented technique also has a number of disadvantages. You need to know about them before starting installation.

disadvantages

Hidden wiring in the house also has some disadvantages. This method is characterized by high costs of effort, time and money. A lot of construction dust can be generated during the channeling process. It is for this reason that hidden wiring is not created in the case of a high-quality finishing of the walls.

It should also be said that the presented method is not absolutely fireproof for wooden structures. In this case, it is better to give preference to the open mounting method. It should also be said that the creation of dimensional cable channels in the thickness of concrete walls is unacceptable. This can damage the structure of the building.

The closed wiring is hidden from view. In the event of a short circuit, violation of the wire insulation, the owners of the house cannot see such deviations. This could cause a fire. It will take more effort to find the damaged area.

Types of installation

There are different types of hidden wiring. The choice of technique depends on the characteristics of the walls in which communications are supposed to be created. It is possible to lay electrical wires in a layer of plaster. It will be problematic to get them, if necessary, from the thickness of the wall.

The second option involves the arrangement of a special cable channel. It can be a corrugated pipe or a special electrical pipe. The wires pass through it, like in a mine. This makes it possible, if necessary, to easily get them out of the channel and replace them with new communications. However, the method is not suitable for concrete walls. It is prohibited to drill large channels in them.

If the plastering method is chosen, it should be assessed whether the wall is even. The type of installation depends on this. If the wall is flat, the wires can be mounted under a 5 mm plaster layer. However, this is not always advisable. If the wall is very uneven, in order to reduce the consumption of plaster, you will first need to grind the channels and lay communications in them.

Code of practice

There are certain rules that must be followed when creating a hidden transaction. It should be said that all communications should run strictly along vertical or horizontal lines. It is strictly forbidden to shorten the path of the cable in order to save material and lay it diagonally.

This rule exists to improve the safety in the operation of the electrical system. In this case, the user clearly knows that the wire leaves the hidden wiring socket in a vertical or horizontal plane. In the event of a breakdown, or even simply, if necessary, drive a nail into the wall, it will be easier to determine where the line runs. Otherwise, there is a high risk of electric shock.

It should also be said that the line of electrical communications should run from the ceiling at a distance of 15 cm or more. This is a relatively new rule. Homeowners in the future may want to create a suspended or suspended ceiling. In this case, the wiring, which is close to the ceiling, will greatly complicate the installation.

Drawing up a diagram

Before starting the installation, a hidden wiring diagram must be created. It is important to take into account a number of nuances. In addition to the rules and regulations listed above, you will need to pay attention to the correct location of all elements of the system.

When calculating, be sure to calculate the expected load on the line. For each room or group of electrical appliances, you need to run a separate wire. Sockets, switches are usually located at different levels. At the same time, the requirements that are put forward for the comfort of use are taken into account. For example, in the living room it is best to create an outlet behind the TV, and in the kitchen - near the countertop.

Also, in the diagram, you need to indicate all sizes, nearby objects and communications. The electrical route must run at a distance of at least 50 cm from batteries, ventilation ducts or sewer and water pipes. Specifying the exact dimensions will allow you to purchase the optimal amount of materials for installation.

Materials (edit)

To create a cost estimate for creating a hidden wiring, you need to calculate the number of all system elements, the length of the wire. You should also calculate the total load on the power supply line. The indicator of the cross-section of the wire depends on this. It should be said that a wire with an aluminum core is not suitable for installing hidden wiring. In this case, you need to purchase a copper-type cable. Moreover, its insulating material must be distinguished by a high degree of resistance to fire. VVG wire is best suited.

Next, using the prepared diagram, you need to calculate the length of the wire, the number of sockets, socket boxes, switches, junction boxes for hidden wiring and other elements. You will also need to think about the number of terminals, connections, the length of the corrugated pipe, the amount of solution.

Instruments

A number of tools should be prepared that are necessary for the installation of hidden wiring. You will need a punch or grinder, a chisel, a hammer, indicator screwdrivers, a trowel, a building level. You should also purchase a multimeter and a wire stripper.

Markup

To make it hidden, you will need to consider the detailed technology of the entire process. First you need to do the correct markup. You can start this procedure only after creating the circuit. Places for switches, sockets and junction boxes are marked on the surface of the base.

There are different ways to correctly mark the alignment. Precision to the millimeter is not required here. However, the lines must be straight and exactly horizontal or vertical. Most often, non-professional builders use the building level for this.

One of the most popular and accurate methods is the use of nylon thread. Rub it with colored chalk. Next, the thread is pulled between two points between which the track will pass. The cord is pulled tight and released abruptly. A colored and even line appears on the wall. This method is suitable for creating both horizontal and vertical alignments.

Creating a groove

Studying how to hide the wiring, you should consider the technology for creating strobes. This will require a grinder. With this tool with a diamond-coated circle nozzle, cuts are made in the wall along the marked lines. This procedure creates a lot of dust. Therefore, work must be carried out in glasses and overalls.

Next, using a perforator, a groove is made between two parallel lines. If you do not have such a tool at hand, you can perform this procedure with a hammer and chisel. However, this option will require more time and effort.

Professional craftsmen use special equipment for these purposes. The chaser allows you to do it. It is recommended to use it in combination with a construction vacuum cleaner. In this case, the work is carried out very quickly and efficiently. However, it is impractical to purchase such a product for non-professional use. This technique is quite expensive.

Wiring must be carried out in accordance with the rules of the PUE. In this case, the features of the wall material are taken into account. The width of the groove can be different. It depends on the number of wires that will pass under the base of the wall. There should be a small distance between each cable, literally a few millimeters. However, when 3 wires pass through the strobe, its width will be greater than when drawing a line of 1-2 lines.

In some cases, building codes and rules for the installation of electrical equipment stipulate the need for communications in a corrugated pipe. In this case, the depth and width of the channel increases even more. It can reach 40 mm or more. It depends on the size of the pipe.

You will also need to create the appropriate holes for the subsequent installation of sockets and switches. For this, a special crown is used, which is put on the drill. Its diameter should correspond to the parameters of the socket.

Fixing wires

For the installation of hidden wiring in concrete or brick foundations, special fasteners are used. These can be UW-type dowel-clamps. Most often, products marked 5/10 are used for self-assembly. The choice depends on the type of cable. To create the holes for the clips, you need a 6 mm drill.

When the necessary recesses are created, you will need to grab the wire with a clamp and install it in the seat. This type of fastener fits easily into the hole. However, getting it out of there will be extremely difficult. The fact is that this retainer has special antennae. They will securely hold the dowel in the base.

If a corrugated pipe with a diameter of up to 40 mm will be installed in the channel, it must first be fixed with a gypsum mixture. If the pipe size is larger, it is recommended to use the appropriate dowel-clamps. Gypsum mortar is also used for additional fixation of the socket and junction boxes in the seat.

Line wiring

After all the preparatory work has been completed, the wiring can be performed. To do this, you need to cut the wire in accordance with a previously prepared diagram into pieces of suitable size. It is necessary to make a reserve for the subsequent connection of all network elements.

It should be noted that the turns of the wire must not be done abruptly. They should be fairly smooth. Next, you need to fix the wire in the prepared channel using fasteners or plaster mix. Next, you need to let the solution dry. It is not worth finishing yet. Finishing work is carried out only after a thorough check of the health of the system.

Having considered how to carry out the installation of hidden wiring, you can carry out the entire procedure with your own hands.

Features of the installation of electrical wiring directly depend on the characteristics of the building materials from which the building is built. And this is due to the fact that any building material has its own degree of fire hazard. In this article, we will consider this dependence, based on the current rules for the design of electrical installations (7th edition of the PUE, updated on 02/12/2016) and on the practical experience of users of our portal.

Cable routing rules

The location of cable lines in the room is subject to certain rules:

  • the wiring in the room should be laid in accordance with strictly horizontal or strictly vertical lines, while the rotation of the cable route is only possible by 90 ° (creating all kinds of diagonals associated with saving conductors is unacceptable);
  • horizontal sections of the wiring should run at a distance of 10 ... 15 cm from the ceiling;
  • vertical sections of the wiring must be at least 10 cm away from door and window openings.

Types of wiring

In modern buildings, it is customary to install two types of wiring: hidden and open. Concealed wiring is laid in the voids of building structures or inside walls (in channels made by slitting, drilling, etc.).

Open wiring is laid directly on the surface of the walls. In this case, the wires are either attached to special insulators, or laid in standard cable channels.

When choosing the type of wiring when building a house, you should not be guided by your own preferences, because only SNiPs, GOSTs and PUEs should be taken as a basis.

Least of all, self-taught builders have questions if the electrical wiring is mounted on walls made of non-combustible building materials. To begin with, let's talk about just such cases.

Installation of wiring on building structures made of non-combustible materials

Modern PUE rules allow the use of wires and cables in rooms exclusively with copper conductors (clause 7.1.34.).

If the room has walls and ceilings made of non-combustible materials (concrete, brick, aerated concrete blocks, ceramic blocks, gypsum boards GWP, etc.), then it is advisable to mount hidden wiring in it. Firstly, it is aesthetically pleasing, secondly, it is safe in terms of accidental mechanical damage and, thirdly, the rules of the PUE (clause 7.1.37) quite allow mounting hidden-type wiring in walls made of non-combustible materials.

In this case, we are talking about living quarters. In attics, in basements (especially in unheated ones) and in technical premises, it is recommended to make open wiring.

The rules of the PUE state: if the building structure consists of non-combustible materials, then it is allowed to lay monolithic non-replaceable wiring along it, using technological channels, grooves and voids for this. In this case, it is sufficient to use insulated cables or wires in a protective sheath as conductors (for example, VVG cables). In this case, the installation of wiring is carried out without the use of metal pipes, protective corrugation and other additional elements.

If the rough wall is subsequently planned to be plastered, then, as a rule, it is not necessary to resort to chipping the walls for wiring.

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When building a new house, before plastering work, it is advisable to carry out electrical wiring. Beforehand, it is not bad to get a technical specification (technical conditions) in the power supply organization and draw for yourself (and for delivery to the same power supply organization) a single-line power supply diagram. It is possible to gouge a brick wall, but not worth it. You can lay VVG by fixing a dowel-nail on the wall and fixing the cable on it with a plastic clamp-type tie (sold in packs in electrical goods). By the way, it turns out that the wiring protrudes on the wall by no more than 4-5 millimeters, and the plaster completely covers the wiring, even if it is economically plastering with special plasters (mixtures).

Of course, niches for sockets and switches will still have to be created in the wall itself. But dust, and physical work in this case will be much less than with the widespread chipping of walls.

As for the power supply scheme: it should be available from any self-respecting owner. Indeed, in the future it will certainly be needed. The circuit is needed at least so that during the repair of the room, the drill does not get into the wire connected to the electricity.

If you are laying the wiring on walls that are not planned to be plastered in the future, then chipping in this case cannot be avoided. You will also have to gouge the walls if the old wiring is being replaced during the overhaul, and there is no need to remove the layer of old plaster.

Should or shouldn't you create horizontal grooves? Can load-bearing walls and concrete slabs be channeled? There are no unequivocal answers to these questions among professional builders. Of course, from the point of view of the theory of strength of materials, man-made furrows can significantly weaken the strength of building structures (just like a thin cut in a glass cutter weakens strong glass). Nevertheless, the rules of the PUE (clause 7.1.37) allow the laying of electrical networks in the grooves (in the grooves) of walls, partitions and ceilings. The main thing is not to overdo it with the depth of the groove and with its width.

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In this case, the existing technological voids should be used to the maximum (for example, in floor slabs).

In grooves, in steel sleeves, in special trays and technological channels, joint laying of wires and cables belonging to different lines (with the exception of mutually redundant conductors) is allowed.

Installation of wiring on building structures made of combustible materials

A lot of questions regarding the rules for installing electrical wiring arise from people who begin to independently electrify premises from combustible building materials. These are mainly frame and timber houses. The answers to most of the questions can be found in the same PUE rules.

The construction of houses from combustible building materials allows you to mount both types of wiring (hidden and open). Which one to use depends on the preference of the homeowner. As for the protective elements that protect the wiring from damage, and the building from fire as a result of a short circuit, their choice depends on the type of cable route.

There are two ways to run exposed wiring indoors:

  1. Installation of retro wiring.
  2. Laying of wires in cable channels.

Retro wiring installation

To what extent the design of the retro wiring complies with the rules of the PUE is a controversial issue. In this regulation, the creation of a posting of this type is not even considered. Nevertheless, let's try to understand this issue.

FDRA FORUMHOUSE Member

PUE allows open laying with a cable with a flame-retardant sheath (for example, VVGng), directly along the walls of combustible material. But by no means hidden. There must be visual control.

In the case of retro wiring, a special twisted cable ("retro") is mounted directly on the wall, to which it is attached using small insulators. Considering that such a conductor has a coating of artificial silk impregnated with a non-combustible compound, it can well be attributed to the class of flame-retardant wires. Therefore, the installation of retro-wiring on walls made of combustible materials does not violate the rules of the PUE.

In accordance with the rules of the PUE, the distance from the conductor to the surface of the combustible material must be at least 10 mm, which is fully ensured by the design of insulators for retro wiring.

The distances between the various elements of the retro wiring are shown in the drawing.

If the wire sags a lot, then the distance between the insulators can be reduced to 50 cm.

When installing retro wiring, one important nuance should be taken into account: most modern electrical appliances must be connected to the ground loop without fail. For this reason, a three-core cable should be used as part of the wiring (if it is not commercially available, then it is advisable to weave it yourself).

In places where the wiring passes through a wall or a ceiling made of combustible materials (for example, wood), the cable (wire) must be laid in a metal pipe with localization ability. The ends of the pipe should be sealed with a non-flammable compound (for example, fire-resistant polyurethane foam).

The localization ability of a pipe is a quality that allows it to withstand short circuits in the wiring without burning out the walls of the pipe itself. In order for a pipe to have this ability, its walls must be of a certain thickness:

  • for copper conductors up to 2.5 mm², the wall thickness is not standardized;
  • for copper conductors with a cross section of 4 mm², the pipe must have a wall thickness of at least 2.8 mm;
  • for copper conductors with a cross section of 6-10 mm², the pipe must have a wall thickness of at least 3.2 mm.

Open wiring in cable ducts

If open wiring is laid in cable ducts and electrical skirting boards, then cables (wires) with high fire resistance (VVGng or NYM) should be used as conductors. At the same time, the material of the cable channels must also prevent the spread of fire.

Alexey S. Member of FORUMHOUSE

I made open wiring with NYM wires in wood-effect cable ducts - Czech (with a certificate). Non-flammable (or correctly - self-extinguishing). I checked it myself: when the flame is brought up, it begins to char and melt a little. If you remove the fire, the process stops immediately.

When installed on walls made of combustible materials, the flush-mounted boxes must have fireproof linings (for example, made of asbestos cement or gypsum mortar) 10 mm thick. In places where the wiring passes through combustible structures, metal sleeves with localization ability must be installed.

Concealed wiring in flammable walls

The peculiarities of laying hidden wiring in walls made of combustible materials (for example, wood) boil down to the fact that wiring in the voids of such walls and partitions must run inside metal pipes with localization ability (rules of PUE 7.1.38.).

There is only one rule, and in relation to its implementation, there can be no indulgences. All other options (the use of plastic corrugations, metal hoses and other protective elements) should be deliberately excluded, because from the point of view of fire safety, they are unacceptable.

I.K. Member of FORUMHOUSE

If you approach strictly according to the PUE, then with a hidden gasket on combustible structures, a metal hose cannot be laid. Key phrase in clause 7.1.38: "in metal pipes with localization ability." The metal hose does not have this ability. Therefore outside the law.

When laying wires and cables along combustible structures (or inside them), in all cases, it must be possible to replace the conductors.

By the way, electrical wiring, spread over the floors, is the most convenient way of arranging hidden wiring in rooms made of combustible materials. In this case, the strobes to the sockets and switches will simply go down from the main highways.

When laying pipes and under electrical wiring in technological cavities of combustible structures, the ends of pipes and ducts should be covered with a quickly removable non-combustible material (for example, polyurethane foam).

In order to create a sufficient number of turns when installing removable wiring in metal pipes, junction boxes must be used in the corners of the electrical route. Access to these elements must always remain open.

The inner diameter of the pipe must be selected in such a way that the cable laid inside it occupies no more than 40% of the total free space. This rule applies to all protective elements (cable channels, corrugations, trays, etc.).

It should be noted right away that the creation of hidden wiring in rooms with wooden walls is a laborious process. After all, the channels for wiring will have to be equipped on their own. The space for the pipes must be freed up by drilling, grooving and recessing.

Vertical channels in the walls should be drilled while laying the log house. In this case, horizontal holes are made after the walls are ready. To make the cable more convenient to pull through the pipes, an auxiliary cable for pulling (conductor) should be laid in their inner lumen in advance.

Cable routing under drywall, suspended and suspended ceilings

The laying of hidden wiring inside frame partitions, under plasterboard or plastic sheathing, as well as behind various types of ceilings, is regulated by the code of construction rules SP 31-110-2003 (clause 14.15) and the rules of the PUE (clause 7.1.38.). In accordance with these regulations, hidden wiring is allowed to be mounted in two ways:

  1. If partitions, wall bases or their sheathing are made of combustible materials, then conductors (for example, with VVG marking) must be placed in metal pipes with localization ability, or in closed boxes.
  2. If building structures are made of non-combustible materials, then the wiring should consist of wires (cables) that do not spread combustion (for example, VVGng), while it should be mechanically protected with non-combustible non-metallic boxes or pipes (for example, a corrugated self-extinguishing pipe).
  3. Member of FORUMHOUSE

    I would not punch a hole in the profile, you need to leave room for wires between the profile and the wall or to cut the wall - if there is no other way.

    When laying conductors under ceilings, under plasterboard or plastic surfaces, as well as inside frame partitions, you should be guided by the general rules for installing electrical wiring on combustible or non-combustible building structures (presented in the previous sections of the article).

    Underfloor wiring

    Underfloor electrical wiring is the ideal way to create hidden cabling without the need for horizontal wall slitting. In this case, the cable (trunk wire) is led directly to the locations of sockets, switches and junction boxes.

    If the wiring is installed in the lower layers of the cement floor, then a simple protective corrugation is sufficient for laying it. Of course, inside the screed, you can lay a cable completely without corrugation, but replacing the wiring without resorting to the destruction of the floor covering will not work in this case. By the way, the complexity of repairing and replacing cables (wires) is the only significant drawback of floor wiring, and it must be taken into account when deciding on the type of electrical wiring.

    So, we introduced you to the main methods of installing internal electrical wiring, which depend on the characteristics of building materials in the room. You can read in more detail in the corresponding section of our portal. You can learn about additional features of installing wiring on walls, floors and ceilings from the corresponding video. And the article will be of interest to everyone who does not want to face the unpleasant consequences of such a problem one day.

From time to time we make repairs in our apartment or in a private house, and as a rule, we are faced with the need to replace the electrical wiring. Experts offer to carry out electrical work before proceeding with the main repair and decoration of the premises. In new apartments or houses, these works are usually carried out immediately after the stage of erection of walls and internal partitions and before the start of the process of screed floors. If your wiring is still made of aluminum wires, then we strongly recommend that you urgently change it. Moreover, the replacement must be carried out entirely. After all, connections in junction boxes of old aluminum wires with new copper wires are extremely dangerous and can lead to a fire. Of course, the specifics of electrical installation, the specifics of working with hidden wiring are thoroughly known to professionals. They are the ones who know how to correctly calculate the cross-section of the required wire and determine the permissible load. But every literate, educated tenant must have a basic understanding of the elements of electrical wiring and the work associated with its laying.

Planning the wiring diagram

At the first stage, the owner plans the places in which he is going to place and install electrical appliances, assumes what are his requirements for lighting in the premises. Determined with the installation height of sockets and switches. A specialist electrician calculates the number of electric points, draws up a diagram and determines on the spot how hidden electrical wiring should be correctly connected to all these devices, where to place sockets and switches, how to correctly distribute leads for chandeliers, lamps, sconces, etc. The specialist also determines the place of installation of the main switchboard, the number and current characteristics of the protective shutdown elements. The peculiarity of this wiring is that all electrical communications are hidden, invisible. Let us remind once again that electrical installation should be done before the start of construction work, because the wiring is mounted in the voids of partitions, behind a suspended ceiling, in plastering walls, ceilings, etc.

Installation of hidden wiring

In concrete and brick walls, before the start of the electrical installation, gating is carried out. Small grooves with a depth of 20 mm and a width of 10-15 mm are laid in the wall. For this job, there is a wall chaser that makes smooth grooves in any material. You can use a simple perforator with a special attachment for crushing to make such grooves. As a last resort, you can use a grinder with a diamond wheel to cut the grooves yourself. For reliability, it is recommended to fix the wiring in the grooves with dowel clamps or a mixture of alabaster, which instantly hardens, thereby firmly fixing the wire. This is the first, rough stage of laying the electrical wire. After the wires have been routed from the junction box to the right places and roughly fixed in the groove, the next "cosmetic" step should be taken - the groove should be plastered or putty.

Installation of electrical wiring in false ceilings

The most common, fairly simple, very fast way of conducting hidden wiring is to install it behind false ceilings. When installing a suspended ceiling, there will certainly be a gap in which you can install telephone, antenna and electrical wires. There you can also carry out the wiring of electrical wires to all kinds of lamps. Installation always starts from the junction box upwards; clamps are fastened (screwed) along the ceiling, which firmly hold the cable. When installing wiring in a suspended ceiling, remember that there is air in the gap between the base of the ceiling and its suspended part. This is fraught with the fact that in the event of a short circuit, a fire may occur. In order to avoid this, in suspended structures with cavities, it is recommended to lay the wires in a corrugated PVC pipe (corrugated hose), in which each cable is located separately from the other. The corrugated hose has such an excellent property: with strong heating of the cable and fire, the corrugated hose shrinks in this place, localizes and extinguishes the fire.

Installation of electrical wiring in drywall

Installing electrical wiring in plasterboard walls is somewhat similar to laying in false ceilings. In this case, there is also a place where you can carry out certain communications. And in this case, one should not neglect the fire safety rules, and therefore also carry out the wiring in the corrugation. Work on the installation of communications in plasterboard structures is carried out before sheathing the ceiling, walls, floor with plasterboard. Having installed a metal "skeleton" - a special frame, all wires are led to the junction box - a node that is fixed in the box. From this node, the wires diverge to switches, sockets, lamps. After installing the wires and other communications, you should proceed to sheathing the frame with drywall, having previously cut holes in the right places for boxes, switches and sockets. And at the end of the work, a bundle of wires is pulled out, a socket box is installed.

Installation of electrical wiring in floors

Installation of hidden wiring in floors also has its own characteristics. It is carried out before the floor screed is made. The main advantage of such a gasket is that it saves money on the installation of strobes in the walls. And also wires are saved due to their more direct laying to the places of electrical leads. A solid wire is laid from the switchboard to the outlet, it is easy to fix it over the floor area, and then pour a screed from above. There are no particular complications in this work, it is just that the electrical equipment project must clearly indicate the places where the cable will be located. This is necessary, first of all, so that when laying floor coverings, if it is necessary to drill holes in the floor, do not damage the electrical wires.

Installation of electrical outlets, switches

Modern technologies are designed so that boxes, switches and sockets are installed with a minimum protrusion from the wall. As mentioned above, special recesses are made in the walls with plasterboard, in which socket boxes are installed specially designed for installation in plasterboard structures. In rooms with concrete walls, everything is different, but not so difficult with certain knowledge and skills. To install a socket in a concrete wall in the recent past, a hammer and a chisel were used. Currently, there is a wonderful hammer drill with special nozzles, templates that drill the required hole in the wall. Then the recess should be cleaned of dust, diluted with alabaster, smeared with the recess, and then put a socket on the mixture. The hardened alabaster mixture firmly fixes the socket. Junction boxes, switches, telephone and TV sockets are installed in the same way. When the alabaster solidifies, the wiring is pulled out into the socket box and the inside of the socket, the switch is mounted.

Conclusions on the electrical installation of hidden wiring

In the event that you want to install hidden electrical wiring in a wooden house without a suspended or plasterboard ceiling, you should remember the following: when laying the wiring inside the walls, either metal cable channels or metal hoses are required. Sockets and rises to the switches must be done strictly vertically. Socket boxes and boxes should only be made of steel. Wires are purchased with additional plastic sheath. Select sockets and switches that can withstand heat. If you decide to replace the wiring, we recommend that you contact a professional electrician. And you can save money by buying the necessary