Finishing of a two-level plasterboard ceiling. Creation of a curved two-level structure from drywall. Preparation of the room and concrete base

The ceiling is the most visible part of the interior of any room. If all the imperfections of flooring and walls can be hidden with furniture, carpets, tapestries and other items, then the ceiling is always in sight. That is why a lot of attention is paid to it when planning. The era of simple leveling of the ceiling with plaster and putty mixtures has long passed, now more complex designs are relevant, which give a unique look to the room, create comfortable zone lighting, play up all the strengths and hide the shortcomings of the interior. And it may seem to many that the creation of such a ceiling is the work of professionals of the highest level. The purpose of this article is to debunk this myth and convince the reader that any normal owner can make a two-level drywall ceiling with his own hands.

A little about drywall

Many people mistakenly believe that drywall appeared in our country in the early 90s of the XX century, when Western building materials became available and "poured" into the Russian market. Few people know that drywall was invented and patented back in the 19th century, and large-scale industrial production was established in 1917. Skeptics can argue that during the Soviet era, nothing was known about drywall, but stubborn facts speak of something else - this material was successfully used by Soviet builders, however, it was called differently - dry plaster. It was not available to everyone and was not used in civil engineering projects, which is why such an erroneous judgment.

But now everything has changed and everyone can buy drywall, it is in any hardware store. Moreover, the whole assortment of accessories is attached to it: profiles, connecting elements, fasteners, materials for sealing joints and much more. But the main thing is that all technologies for working with drywall are in the public domain, manufacturers do not hide this at all. And it is not at all necessary to turn to "super" specialists. Maybe it's better to figure it out yourself and make sure that in principle there is nothing complicated about this. The main thing is to follow the recommendations that have been developed based on the experience of many decades. But let's talk about everything in order.

How does drywall work?

The very name of this unique building material hides its structure. The basis of this building material is a rectangular gypsum sheet, which is pasted over on all sides with facing cardboard.

Gypsum is a natural mineral that has a number of unique and beneficial properties:

The ph level of gypsum is very close to that of the human body.
The production of gypsum-based products does not harm the environment.
Gypsum is a non-combustible material.
Plaster products help to maintain a normal level of humidity, as they say in everyday life, this material is able to "breathe".

The main disadvantages of gypsum, which limits the use of building materials based on it, are insufficient moisture resistance and fragility. Therefore, standard drywall is not used outside the premises, and in rooms with high humidity, only special sheets are used that have special markings.

Types of drywall

Plasterboard sheets, depending on the place of their application and the availability of the desired properties, are of different nomenclature. The types of gypsum plasterboards are described in the following table. At the same time, the nomenclature of the leading manufacturer of building materials - the world famous company Knauf is shown as an example.

Name	Cardboard color	Marking color	Application area
Plasterboard ordinary ()	Grey	Blue	For interior decoration of premises with normal and dry humidity conditions
Drywall moisture resistant ()	Green	Blue	The sheets have a reduced (no more than 10%) water absorption. They are used in rooms with dry, normal, wet and wet humidity modes.
Drywall with increased resistance to open fire ()	Gray or pink	Red	They are more resistant to fire. Used in fire hazardous areas
Moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard with increased resistance to open flame ()	Green	Red	Combines the properties of GKLV and GKLO. It is used in fire-hazardous rooms with high humidity

From the table, we can conclude that the use of certain gypsum plasterboards determines the humidity regime in the premises, as well as the level of fire hazard. The types of humidity conditions in buildings depending on the air temperature are shown in the following table.

Knauf engineers, depending on the purpose of the premises, have developed recommendations for the use of various types of drywall sheets.

Plasterboard sheets are rectangular sheets that have various standard sizes of thickness, width and length. The main geometrical dimensions, as well as the weight of 1 m 2 of the sheet, are shown in the following table.

Most often, gypsum plasterboard sheets are found on sale with a length of 2500 mm and 1200 mm in width. The rest of the standard sizes are usually made by the manufacturer to order. In addition to the geometric dimensions, gypsum plasterboards have another important indicator - the appearance of the side edge. If the end edges are just a sheet cut at a right angle with a bare gypsum core, then the side edges for the convenience of the joint device can have a different profile, and they are pasted over with cardboard. Types of edges of gypsum plasterboard sheets (GKL) are shown in the table.

Edge type	Designation	Application
Straight edge	PC / VR	It is used in two-layer structures made of gypsum plasterboard, when sealing of the joints of the lower layer is not required
Thinned edge	UK / AK	It is required to seal the plasterboard joint with a reinforcing tape and putty like "Knauf-Fugen"
Semicircular edge on the front side	PLC / HRK	Sealing a seam without a reinforcing tape with a putty like "Knauf-Uniflot"
Semicircular and front-thinned hem	PLUK / HRAK	Sealing the seam with Knauf-Fugen putty with reinforcing tape, and Knauf-Uniflot without reinforcing tape
Rounded edge	ZK / RK	Installation of gypsum board with subsequent plastering

In the finishing of ceiling and wall structures, gypsum boards with a thinned and semicircular edge (PLUK) are most often used, which makes it possible to shorten the finishing process chain, and this speeds up the process and significantly reduces its cost.

Profiles and fasteners for plasterboard systems

Naturally, drywall sheets themselves are very rarely attached directly to the walls, and even more so to such a critical structure as the ceiling. For fastening, frames are assembled, and sheets of drywall are already attached to them with special fasteners. At first glance, it may seem that the construction of drywall structures includes a huge assortment of components and fasteners, but in fact everything is much simpler. Consider what profiles are used for arranging the frames of two-level ceilings.

Image	Name, designation, rus / eng	Description and purpose
	Ceiling guide profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27	Made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.4, 0.5 or 0.6 mm. Standard length 3000 or 4000 mm. Designed for joint use with PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile for arranging metal ceiling frames and wall cladding
	Ceiling profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27	The ceiling profile is the basis for the formation of the metal frame of the ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard. Can be used for wall cladding. Available in a thickness of 0.4.0.6 m and a standard length of 3000 and 4000 mm
	Profile guide rack PN 50 * 40, 75 * 40, 100, 40 / UW 50 * 40, 75 * 40, 100 * 40	It is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.4, 0.5, 0.6 mm. Standard length 3000 or 4000 mm. It is used in conjunction with PS / CW profiles of appropriate dimensions in the manufacture of the frame of partitions, but can be used in some particularly critical places in the construction of a suspended ceiling (mainly PN 50 * 40 / UW 50 * 40)
	Rack profile PS 50 * 50, 75 * 50, 100 * 50 / CW 50 * 50, 75 * 50, 100 * 50	The basis for the formation of partitions with the corresponding PN-profiles, but can also be used in ceiling frames (PS / CW 50 * 50)

They can be equipped in rooms where they will be exposed to high humidity or aggressive chemical compounds. That is why profiles are made of galvanized steel, which is less susceptible to corrosive processes. It is best to choose a thickness of 0.6 mm, as these profiles provide the best structural rigidity. It is allowed to use profiles made of galvanized sheet steel 0.4 or 0.5 mm, but only in those places where it is required, for example, to make short jumpers, auxiliary elements and more. The supporting elements of the ceiling should be made only with a 0.6 mm profile. The length of the profile (3000 or 4000 mm) is selected based on the geometry of the room. The main rule is to use solid profile sections wherever possible.

Manufacturers of gypsum plasterboard sheets and accessories for them additionally provide for the possibility of using wooden blocks with a cross section of 50 * 30 mm or 50 * 50 mm as supporting and auxiliary elements of a suspended ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to choose coniferous wood with a moisture content of no more than 12%, while all the bars before installation must be pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. But in the creation of complex ceilings, especially those involving curved elements, it is best to use metal profiles for the following reasons:

The metal profile has anti-corrosion protection, does not require additional processing.
Metal profiles are easily processed with an affordable tool, with the help of them it is easy to create any, even the most complex, multi-level ceiling structure.
Manufacturers of plasterboard systems have developed various technical documentation for the installation of structures with a detailed explanation of each stage and drawings. All this information is in the public domain.
Metal profiles are available at any building materials store and are sold at a reasonable price.

In addition to profiles in plasterboard systems, other elements are used for mounting and fastening frames to building structures. There are a great many of these elements, but we will only consider what concerns a two-level plasterboard ceiling in the following table.

Image	Name	Purpose and application
		Elements for fastening the main and bearing profiles to each other
	Single-level connector for ceiling profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 (Crab)	Made of galvanized steel 0.5-0.9 mm. Designed for connecting profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 in one level at a right angle. Overall dimensions: 148 * 148 * 18 mm. The connection is made using self-tapping screws for metal
	Connector of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 two-level	Designed for connecting profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 at different levels at right angles. It is mainly used in the construction of "floating" ceilings, that is, not connected to the walls. Overall dimensions 58 * 45 mm, thickness 0.5-0.9 mm are made of galvanized steel. They are rarely used in two-level ceilings.
	Universal single-level profile connector PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27	Allows for T-shaped connection of PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profiles both at right angles and at an angle up to 45 °. It also allows longitudinal connection of profiles with an angle of up to 30 °. Additionally, it can be attached to the supporting base. Dimensions 215 * 53 mm, thickness 0.5-0.9 mm. It is used very rarely, since there are many alternative ways to connect profiles
	Extension of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27	It is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.5 to 0.9 mm. It is used for longitudinal connection of profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27. The extension cord reliably connects the two profiles without loss of strength. Self-tapping screws for metal are used for fastening
		Elements for fastening profiles (wooden blocks) to the supporting base
	Straight hanger for profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27	Designed for fixing ceiling profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 to the supporting base: ceiling or walls, using appropriate dowels or anchors. It is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.5 to 0.9 mm. Overall dimensions 60 * 30 * 125 mm. For fastening wooden blocks, direct suspensions of 50 * 30 * 125 mm are produced, but they are used extremely rarely. Load bearing capacity of direct suspension - 40 kg
	Anchor hanger for profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27	Manufactured from 0.9 mm thick galvanized steel. Designed for fixing profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 to the supporting base - the ceiling, if the distance from it to the profiles exceeds 120 mm. The bearing capacity of the suspension is 25 kg. Used in conjunction with a suspension rod
	Anchor suspension rod	It is used in tandem with an anchor suspension. Manufactured from galvanized steel wire with a diameter of 3 or 4 mm. Available in various lengths - from 150 to 3000 mm. Attaches through the eyelet to the ceiling, and the lower part is fixed in the spring plate of the anchor suspension

In fact, in the range of manufacturers of plasterboard systems, there are also other elements that make it possible to simplify the installation technology. These are special arched profiles, and various types of connectors, but as practice shows, they are extremely rarely used, they are practically not on sale. Therefore, the authors of this article decided to save the attention of readers of our portal and tell only about what is widely used.

When choosing profiles and connectors, you must rely only on well-known manufacturers and bona fide sellers. Unfortunately, the market is flooded with cheap fakes of drywall profiles, as well as other components. It is not without reason that we indicated the thickness of the profile in the table, since it is this indicator that indicates the required strength. But on sale you can see profiles not only 0.7 mm, but also 0.6, 0.5 and even 0.4 mm, and from the outside, an inexperienced consumer will not be able to distinguish a dirty trick. Moreover, sometimes counterfeit products look more advantageous. That is why it is worth buying components for plasterboard systems only from well-known manufacturers, the leader of which is the Knauf company. It will not be out of place to invite a specialist who will help you make the right choice. Of course, the original profiles are more expensive than others, but the reliability of the plasterboard ceiling will be at its best.

Fasteners for plasterboard systems

In order to assemble a metal or wooden frame for a plasterboard ceiling, as well as to fix the gypsum board, there are special fasteners. Usually, in the markets and in stores, along with profiles and drywall, sales consultants will always advise the necessary hardware, but nevertheless, the future owner of a two-level plasterboard ceiling will find it useful to know what kind of fasteners should be used.

First of all, it should be noted that almost all elements must have anti-corrosion treatment. Most often, fasteners are phosphated followed by oil or electro-galvanized. This avoids corrosion, and also allows painting, puttying without preliminary preparation. Experienced drywall installers will probably remember the times when they had to first paint over the caps of ordinary self-tapping screws so that rust spots would not appear in the future. Now, fortunately, all commercially available fasteners for gypsum boards have the required coating and do not require special preparation for final finishing.

Elements for fastening frames to load-bearing bases

Let us first consider the fasteners used to fasten frames to load-bearing bases and to connect metal parts to each other.

Name	Designation, dimensions	Appointment
Self-tapping screw with a sharp end	LN9, LN11 (length 9 or 11 mm), slot type PH2	For connecting metal frame parts to each other without preliminary drilling with a profile thickness of up to 0.7 mm
Self-tapping screw with drilling end	TN9, TN11 (length 9 or 11 mm), slot PH2	For joining metal parts with a profile thickness of 0.7 to 2.2 mm without pre-drilling
Dowel for hollow structures	MOLLY, with a diameter of 11 mm - length 49-77 mm, with a diameter of 13 mm - length 51-79 mm, slot PH2	For fastening PN / CW, PN / UW profiles and attachments to sheet or hollow structures
Nylon dowel	NAT, diameter 6, 8, 10, 12, 14 mm, length 30, 40, 50, 60, 70 mm	For fastening guide profiles PN 28 * 27 / UD 8 * 27 to solid wall structures
Multifunctional nylon dowel	YLT, diameter 6mm, length 35, 40, 50, 70mm, diameter 8mm, length 80mm	For fixing the PN 28 * 27 / UD28 * 27 profile to both solid and hollow wall structures
Plastic anchor dowel (dowel-nail)	LYT, PDG, PDGN, diameter 6, 8 mm, length 80 mm	For fastening profiles PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 to load-bearing building structures. Also used for fixing straight hangers to the ceiling
Metal anchor dowel (metal dowel nail)	ZN, diameter 6 mm, length 40 or 49 mm	For fastening straight and anchor hangers to supporting structures
Dowel for hollow structures with drill bit	DRA, diameter 13-15 mm, length 28 mm	For attaching attachments to the gypsum board. No pre-drilling required. It is used in conjunction with a screw with a diameter of 4-5 mm
Dowel for hollow structures without drill bit	DRIVA, diameter 13-15 mm, length 23 mm	The appointment is the same as the DRA. Requires pre-drilling
Sealing tape for metal profiles	Knauf-Dichtungsband, width 30, 50, 70, 95 mm, thickness 3 mm, in one roll 30 m	For tight mating of metal profiles and suspensions with load-bearing building structures, as well as to ensure sound insulation

A few words should be said about the advisability of using a sealing tape, because you can honestly say that in most cases it is not used, citing its uselessness. And in vain. What is this tape for?

It is practically impossible to find a perfectly flat surface of the walls so that the guide profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 would adhere to the wall along its entire length without gaps. The tape allows you to compensate for minor irregularities and ensure a tight attachment of the profile to the supporting structures.
The tighter fit and the material of the tape itself provide increased friction, which increases the mechanical strength of the connection.
The tape provides shock-sound insulation of the metal frame from the walls and ceiling. In building structures, especially in reinforced concrete, acoustic waves propagate very well from various sources: drilling and slotting works, loud music, moving and falling heavy objects, steps, temperature deformations, and others. If the structure of the frame gets into resonance with these acoustic waves, then it is fraught with the appearance of cracks in the finishing of the ceiling, and sometimes the destruction of the frame. The sealing tape reduces such harmful effects on the frame and gypsum board.

The production technology, the recommended materials used, together with tests for various types of loads and influences, are developed by teams of high-class engineers of the manufacturer. Trusting not them, but individual installers does not make any sense. Arguments like “I've done this a hundred times” should still be inferior to technical documentation. Only in this case can one hope that the ceiling structure will last a long time.

Elements for fastening the gypsum board to the frame

It's time to consider the elements used in attaching drywall sheets to a metal (wooden) frame. Traditionally, we will present them in the most understandable tabular form.

Image	Name	Designation, dimensions	Appointment
	Self-tapping screw with countersunk head and sharp end	TN, standard lengths: 25, 35, 45, 55, 65, 75 mm. Slot PH2	For fixing plasterboard sheets to metal frames (with frequent threads) or to wooden frames (with wide threads). Profile thickness up to 0.7 mm. Made of steel, have a phosphated coating
	Self-tapping screw with countersunk head and drilling end	TB, standard lengths: 25, 35, 45, 55, 65, 75 mm. Slot PH2	For fastening plasterboard to metal frames with a profile thickness of 0.7 to 2.2 mm. No pre-drilling required. Phosphated or electro-galvanized

In order for the fastening to be reliable, it is necessary to choose the correct length of the self-tapping screw. The manufacturer recommends using the following technique:

For single-layer plating of gypsum board on a wooden frame, it should be assumed that the length of the self-tapping screw should exceed the thickness of the sheet by at least 20 mm. For example, a wooden frame is sheathed with gypsum plasterboard with a thickness 12.5 mm... Accordingly, the length of the self-tapping screw must be at least 12.5 + 20 = 32.5 mm... The closest size is TN35 with wide carvings for wood.
For two-layer plating of gypsum board on a wooden frame, the length of the self-tapping screw must exceed the total size of the plating by the same 20 mm For example, a wooden frame is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard on 12.5 mm each, which means that the length of the screw is not less than 12,5+12,5+20=45 ... Fits TN45 with wide thread.
For a single-layer cladding of a metal frame, in addition to the thickness of the gypsum board, the thickness of the profile (or profiles) is also taken into account. The self-tapping screw must exceed the total thickness by 10 mm. For example, a metal frame with a thickness 0.6 mm sheathed gypsum plasterboard 12.5 mm... So the length of the TN self-tapping screw should be 12.5 + 0.6 + 10 = 23.1 mm... Best suited TN25.
For two-layer plating of gypsum board on a metal frame, the total thickness of the plating and the thickness of the profile are taken into account. The length of the self-tapping screw must also exceed them by 10 mm. For example, a two-layer planking made of gypsum plasterboard according to 12,5 mm on a reinforced metal frame with a thickness 0.9 mm... In this case, the length of the self-tapping screw must be at least 12.5 + 12.5 + 0.9 + 10 = 35.9 mm... Since a reinforced profile with a thickness of more than 0.7 mm, then self-tapping screws should be used TB(with drill end) and length 45 mm.

Video: Self-tapping screws for drywall and profile

Tool for working with plasterboard systems

To assemble frames, attach them to the supporting structures of walls and ceilings, sheathing gypsum boards, a certain set of tools will be required. The presence of some is mandatory, while others are very desirable, while others are designed to facilitate the technological process with large volumes of installation work, therefore they are used by professionals and are very rarely available in the arsenal of the average home craftsman. We will list the set of tools, indicate the purpose, necessity or desirability of the application. The team of authors of the article decided to summarize all these data in a table, which is very convenient for the readers of our portal.

Image	Tool name	Purpose and description
	Pipe water level (spirit level). Length 5-10 m (depending on the size of the room)	For marking horizontal lines. Application is required.
	Construction bubble level. Length from 0.4 to 2 m (it is desirable to have several different sizes)	For marking and checking horizontal and vertical lines. For the installation of metal frames, it is desirable to have magnetic clips at the level. Application is required.
	Marking cord (chopping, painting) with a supply of coloring powder	For marking straight lines (horizontal and vertical) on walls and ceilings. Application is highly desirable, as the cord greatly simplifies the layout
	Roulette 5 or 10 meters	For measuring and marking rooms, gypsum boards and metal profiles.
	Metal scribe	For marking metal profiles. Application is desirable.
	Construction pencils and markers	For marking building structures, gypsum boards and profiles. Required for use
	Construction square	For marking and installation of profiles and gypsum boards. Application is required
	Building rule (it is desirable to have different sizes of 1500 mm and 2500 mm)	For marking, cutting gypsum boards, monitoring the correct installation. Application is required
	Laser level (level) with a builder of horizontal and vertical planes. Preferably with a magnetic locking device	For marking and monitoring the correct installation. Application is highly desirable, especially for large volumes of work. In good hardware stores they rent
	Cordless or cordless screwdriver	For the assembly of frames and plasterboard sheathing. The screwdriver should have a torque limiter, smooth running, instant brake, light weight. Networked screwdrivers are preferable, since they have compact dimensions and light weight. Application is required
	Attachments (bits) for a screwdriver with slot PH2.	For the installation of frames and their plasterboard sheathing. It is preferable to choose bits with a depth stop so that the screws do not break through the gypsum board
	Perforator network with a set of drills with a diameter of 6, 8, 10, 12 mm	For the installation of guide profiles and hangers to walls and ceilings. The main selection criterion is a light and convenient tool, since a lot of work will be performed at a height. Application is required
	Electric power drill with a set of metal drills and bits of various diameters	For pre-drilling holes in a metal or wooden frame, as well as in gypsum board for installing dowels, lamps and other elements. The drill should have variable speed, reverse, be light and comfortable
	Angle grinder (angle grinder, grinder) with cutting disc for metal	For cutting metal profiles. The angle grinder is best suited for 115 or 125 mm discs. Application is desirable
	Electric jigsaw with a saw for wood	For cutting timber frame elements. It is possible to cut drywall in a curve. Application is desirable but not required
	Electric shears for metal	For cutting metal profiles in large volumes. Application optional
	Manual metal shears (straight, right or left)	For cutting metal profiles. Application is required
	Pliers	For working with metal ceiling frames. Application is required
	A set of screwdrivers of different lengths with a slot PH2	For working with the frame in hard-to-reach places for a screwdriver and tightening the TN or TB screws to the required depth. Application is required
	Segment construction knife with a set of replaceable blades 18 mm wide	For straight cutting gypsum board, trimming edges, chamfering. The knife must have a metal clip and a secure screw lock. Application is required
	Saw knife on drywall	For curvilinear cutting of gypsum boards. Application is required
	Plasterboard planer	For edge preparation, chamfering. Application is required
	Carpentry hammer 200-300 g	For working with metal profiles, plugging in dowels. Application is required
	Plasterboard profile cutter	For fastening metal parts of the frame to each other without using self-tapping screws. Application is desirable but not required
	Tool belt	For placing the tool and fasteners on the belt, which is very convenient when working at height using a ladder or platform

Video: Drywall Tool

Safety precautions and protective equipment when working with drywall

When working with drywall structures, a lot of various tools are used - electric and manual, various types of building materials, primers and paints are used. Work with the ceiling is carried out at a height, which does not exclude a fall. All of the above obliges you to follow simple but necessary safety rules.

All power tools must have power cords in good condition, without damaging the insulation. Any twists and tape wrapped around the cords are unacceptable. Tool bodies must be free of cracks, dents, and ventilation openings must not be blocked by anything.
If extension cords are used, they must also be completely intact. Power tool plugs must fit snugly into the connectors on the extension cord.
In rooms where the humidity level is more than 80%, use of a power tool is not permitted.
Let the power tool go out of hand only after it has come to a complete stop. This is especially true for angle grinders (grinders). Be sure to unplug the power cord after use.
The person working with drywall should wear tight clothing, without protruding parts. It is best if a special work overalls are used. Long hair should be matched to the headdress: beret or headscarf.

Hands must be protected with special work gloves. Despite some loss of tactile sensitivity, it is necessary to develop a good habit of working with gloves at all times. The sharp edges of the cut profiles are capable of cutting through the arms to the bone.
When drilling and drilling walls and ceilings, fitting, drilling and grinding gypsum boards, a large amount of cement and gypsum dust is formed that can get into the eyes and respiratory system. Therefore, it is necessary to use protective equipment: goggles and a respirator.
When working at height, use only special construction ladders and platforms. The use of kitchen stools, tables and other items is unacceptable.

There should be no strangers in the work area, especially children and pets.
Plasterboard covering of the ceiling structure should be carried out only with a partner.

For the safety of the tool, it should be cleaned after work with a soft brush from dust, in no case wipe with a wet cloth or wash under running water (except for spatulas and brushes). If the tool is not needed at the work site, then it should fit into the cases and, if possible, be taken out of the room.

Methods for mounting metal frame profiles

The success of the installation of a plasterboard ceiling largely depends on how well the frame is assembled. It is he who is a kind of "skeleton" on which the entire structure is fixed, therefore, when assembling it, it is necessary to follow all those recommendations of the manufacturer. We gave recommendations on the choice of components and fasteners to the readers of our portal earlier, and we will consider the connection methods in this section. At the same time, the authors of the article, in addition to the methods recommended by the manufacturers, will give an example of alternative methods that do not reduce the strength of the structure, but can greatly reduce the cost of the finished ceiling.

Fastening guide profiles to supporting building structures

As mentioned earlier, PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 are most often used as guide profiles in ceiling systems, and in some cases, in especially loaded areas, the PN 50 * 40 / UW 50 * 40 profile is allowed. These profiles can be attached both to the walls - using a suitable dowel, and to the ceiling - with anchors (dowel with nails). The step of fastening to the flat bases of the walls is no more than 400 mm, and to the ceiling - 250 mm. It is better not to regret a penny dowel and fix it to the walls, too, with a step of 250 mm. In the profiles of well-known manufacturers, there are already pre-drilled holes with a diameter of 8 mm with a pitch of 250 mm, and if they are not there, it is better to pre-drill them with a suitable drill. Experienced craftsmen can, when installing a profile, immediately drill holes in both the profile and the supporting structure with a perforator, but for those who make a ceiling from gypsum plasterboard for the first time it is better not to experiment, but to do it right.

To fix the PN-profile to the walls, you should:

If there is no hole for dowels in the profile, then they must be drilled with an electric drill with an 8 mm drill. In this case, the holes should be at a distance of no more than 50 mm from the edges of the profile, and the step between them should be 250-400 mm (depending on the evenness of the wall).
The profile is applied to the wall with the lower edge to the previously marked line, the fit is checked. If necessary, cuts are made in the side walls of the profile so that the fit is as tight as possible.
A sealing tape of the corresponding width is glued to the end part of the PN profile.
The profile is applied to the wall, aligned with the marking line. A hole is drilled that exceeds the length of the dowel by 10 mm at the beginning of the profile, then the dowel is inserted into it, then in the middle, and then at the end. The tightness is checked and these areas are fixed with a screw (dowel-nail). Then all other sections of the profile are drilled and fixed.

The anchor nail dowel is usually driven by the sharp part of the hammer. For those who do not have the appropriate skill, it is quite permissible to tighten the dowel-nail with a screwdriver. This will not affect the strength of the connection.

For fastening straight sections of the PN profile to a reinforced concrete ceiling:

Installation is carried out in the same way as fastening to walls, only metal anchor-wedges (dowel-nails) are used as fasteners.
Practice shows that in most cases in ceiling structures it is permissible to use plastic dowel-anchors with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 80 mm. If the hole falls on a void in the slab, then you need to use a dowel for hollow structures.
Ceiling mounting spacing should not exceed 250 mm.
If any curvilinear structure is conceived on the ceiling or walls, then according to this curvature, the guide profile should also be bent. Manufacturers offer in their assortment special profiles for arches and curved structures, but in most cases such elements are difficult to find on sale, and they are unreasonably expensive, which is explained by a more complex manufacturing process. That is why most craftsmen independently adjust the guide profile to the desired surface. This requires:
On the supporting base (ceiling or wall), the markings of the future curved surface are made.
Scissors for metal or a grinder (angle grinder) make cuts on the side surfaces and the end in increments of 3 to 10 cm (depending on the radius of curvature).
The profile is then bent and attached to the supporting base at each bend segment. This takes a lot of fasteners, this work is quite difficult, but for the desired result it will still have to be done.

In this process, it is important to understand the very principle of forming straight or curved surfaces, then any, even the most daring ideas for creating drywall structures will be easily realized.

drywall

Fastening guides and support profiles

From the very name of the guide profile, its purpose follows - to give the direction of the future plane of the gypsum plasterboard structure, and the main part of the load from the weight is already performed by other profiles - load-bearing ones. In ceiling systems, in most cases, this function is performed by PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profiles. If the guide profile PN 50 * 40 / UW 50 * 40 is used in particularly loaded places, then PS 50 * 50 / UD 50 * 50 will act as the carrier.

Fastening with self-tapping screws

The carrier profile is inserted into the corresponding guide and fastened in most cases with self-tapping screws for metal LN9, LN11, TB9, TB11. Installers call these self-tapping screws "bugs", "fleas", "seeds". The length of the self-tapping screw is determined by the total thickness of the profiles to be connected. In most cases, a 9 mm length (LN9, TB9) is sufficient, but which screws to use - with a drilling or sharp tip - the controversy among professional installers has not subsided for many years. The manufacturer recommends using self-tapping screws with a sharp end with a profile thickness of up to 0.7 mm. In plasterboard ceiling systems, profiles exceeding this indicator are very rare, therefore the authors of the article recommend using such screws (LN9, LN11), although in this case TB9, TB11 are also quite appropriate.

Very often, sales consultants equip buyers with self-tapping screws with a drilling tip, but based on the experience of drywall installers, the authors of the article recommend using exactly LN9, LN11. Why? It is noticed that when screwing in a self-tapping screw with a drilling tip, the probability of turning it with an unadjusted torque is much higher for a screwdriver. This is due to the fact that the drilling tip makes a hole in the metal of the profile with a much larger diameter than the sharp end LB9, LB11. That is why cranking will occur at a much lower torque, which can negatively affect the strength of the frame structure. In turn, the sharp tip LN9, LN11 pierces the metal and the threads are very tightly "wrapped" by the profile, and so tightly that not every screwdriver's torque limiter will work and the installer can literally twist his hands. Therefore, before starting installation work, the limiter should be adjusted, and it is better to do this experimentally.

Screwing screws into a metal profile requires some skill. For novice installers, very often the screws fly out of the bit, which is often accompanied by censorship and obscene language. In order to properly tighten the self-tapping screw, it must be positioned strictly perpendicular to the parts to be fastened; drilling must be started at low speed with a certain pressure. After the screw has drilled or punctured the metal, the effort is reduced, since the thread will already work and the self-tapping screw will go "like clockwork". Usually, after a couple of hours of work and a certain number of fallen screws, the necessary skills are already being developed.

A very important question is choosing the right bit for your screwdriver. You should not spare money on it, you should buy only high-quality products with the appropriate PH2 slot and a magnetic lock. Cheap no-name products from the Middle Kingdom will last one day at best, and a high-quality bit can last more than one year, provided that the torque limiter, which in everyday life is also called a ratchet, is correctly configured.

Fastening with a cutter

There is another very good way to fasten drywall profiles to each other - this is to use a cutter. This tool, using a hard alloy striker (punch), cuts through and bends the walls of the profiles being fastened, which provides a fairly strong connection, no less strong than self-tapping screws. Using this method has certain advantages:

Installation is much faster than with self-tapping screws.
The use of a cutter provides the required mechanical strength of the joint, such unpleasant phenomena as turning the screws are excluded.
If a large amount of work is planned, then the cutter can pay off at one facility by saving on self-tapping screws.
The cutter leaves a flat profile surface, which facilitates the installation of drywall.
The cutters make holes at the same distance from the edges of the profile, so preliminary marking is not required.

Using this tool is very simple:

Bonded profiles are exposed.
The cutter handles are divorced.
The working hook is inserted between the profiles to be fastened. The punch should be perpendicular to the walls.
The handles of the tool are brought together sharply to a characteristic click.
The handles are pulled apart and all operations are repeated in a new place.

There are many types of cutters, different manufacturers, different quality. For one-time work, you can choose an inexpensive model, and if you plan a lot of work on the construction of frames, then it is better to choose a more professional model, for example, Knauf or Stanley. The main thing when choosing is to try it out in practice, connecting exactly those types of profile with which you plan to work. For the installation of the ceiling frame, a lot of work is done at a height, so it is better to choose a compact model that will be convenient to work with with one hand.

Fastening bearing profiles to building structures

The main bearing profile in plasterboard ceilings is PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27. In order for the weight from the ceiling to be distributed on the building structures - the ceiling and partly the walls - the bearing profiles must be securely fastened. What mounts are there?

Fastening with a direct suspension

The main way of attaching the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile to the ceiling, if the distance from the ceiling plane to the bottom plane of the profile does not exceed 120 mm, is to use a direct suspension, which has already been described earlier. For fastening it is necessary:

On the pre-marked centerline of the profile, the position of the suspension is determined, it is applied to the place in an expanded form, the attachment points are outlined (at least two).
The distance between adjacent suspensions on one profile should be no more than 50 cm.
Holes for fasteners are drilled with a 6 mm perforator with a drill. The depth should be 10 mm longer than the length of the dowel or wedge anchor.
A suspension is applied, anchor-wedges or dowel nails are inserted directly through it into the holes.
Anchor-wedges (dowel nails) are driven in with a hammer.

The suspension legs are bent down.
The profile is set according to the level (laser level, stretched cord).
Through the side holes of the suspension, the profile is fastened with self-tapping screws LN9, LN11 or LB9, LB11, two on each side.
Suspension legs protruding downward are bent upward.

The direct suspension has several holes for attaching to supporting structures. This is an oblong hole in the center, two holes at a distance of 46 mm and two more at a distance of 78 mm, located already behind the fold line (also called "ears"). This is clearly seen in the figure. Opinions about which fasteners are to be carried out are completely different, but experience shows that it is most advisable to fasten precisely to those holes that are located at a distance of 46 mm, since in this case, with a vertical load, the suspension practically does not change its position.

In some hard-to-reach places, it is more convenient to attach "by the ears", but in this case, after attaching to the ceiling, bend the legs at 90 ° and pull them down with some effort so that all the gaps that will inevitably appear under the load of the ceiling are already out.

Fastening with anchor suspension

If the distance from the ceiling plane to the lower part of the profile is more than 120 mm, then you cannot do without an anchor suspension, which consists of two parts: the suspension itself and the rod of the corresponding length. Installation of such a suspension is extremely simple, we will describe it step by step.

LED lamp

On the axial line of the profile pre-marked on the ceiling, marks are made for attaching the suspensions. In this case, the distance between adjacent suspensions should be no more than 50 cm, and from the wall to the nearest suspension - no more than 25 cm.
Holes with a diameter of 6 mm and a depth of 50 mm are drilled in the designated places with a perforator.
An eyelet of the suspension rod is applied to the drilled hole, a metal dowel nail (wedge anchor) is inserted through it, which is then hammered in with a hammer.
The suspension rod is bent down 90 °, and it should be positioned so that it is on the center line marked on the ceiling.
An anchor suspension is placed on the traction, for this, the spring legs are pressed, the traction is started, the suspension is set to the desired position, and then the legs are unclenched. If the ends of the rods are too long, then they are simply bent up with pliers, leaving the required length for adjustment. It is better to cut off the ends that are too long with a grinder, and it is better to do this in advance.
All hangers for the supporting profile are mounted in the same way.
The mounting part of the hangers is inserted into the profile and fixed in it with a spring clip or by turning (depending on the design of the hanger).
Squeezing the spring pads and moving the suspension along the traction, the required level is set along the pre-tensioned cord or. This operation is done for all suspensions of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile.

The entire ceiling structure is "suspended" on anchor hangers, which allows you to hide engineering communications behind the ceiling

Alternative ways of attaching the bearing profiles

There are times when, when arranging a plasterboard ceiling, the calculation of the components was incorrectly made and the purchased suspensions do not fit in size, or they simply ended. Naturally, during work, I really do not want to be distracted by buying additional suspensions, and the available stores can be very far away. When assembling a metal frame, there are always a lot of scraps of various profiles, from which it is quite possible to build a homemade suspension. Let's take a look at a few of the most common options.

Extension of the direct suspension. It is used when the standard length of 120 mm is not enough and an anchor suspension is not available. In this case, you can attach to the legs of the direct suspension with two self-tapping screws on each side of the legs from the other suspension.
Another way out is to insert a piece of the ceiling profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 between the hanger and the legs from another hanger. The ceiling profile plays the role of a kind of extension cord.

In the third method, 90 ° corners are made from the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile, which are attached with one side to the anchor to the ceiling, and the other, with the longer side, to the mounted profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27. Plasterboard installers call them “boots”. Naturally, there should be two boots - on both sides of the profile.
The fourth method presupposes a good command of metal scissors, with which a suspension is cut out of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile, including "ears" for attaching to the ceiling and legs for attaching to the bearing profile.

The Internet is replete with assurances from "experienced installers" that home-made suspensions are in no way inferior and even superior to industrially manufactured ones. But the team of authors of the article considers it necessary to warn the readers of our portal against the thoughtless and widespread use of homemade suspensions and recommends using those recommended by the manufacturer. And that's why:

The industrially manufactured hangers are designed for a certain load: 40 kg for a straight line and 25 for an anchor one, which will provide the required strength of the ceiling. Homemade suspensions cannot guarantee resistance to such loads.
Suspensions from well-known manufacturers have a thickness of 0.9 mm, while the maximum thickness of a profile used for self-manufacturing of fasteners is 0.7 mm (and most often 0.6, 0.5 or even 0.4 mm). Naturally, the strength of such products will be significantly lower.
Elongated hangers have a larger number of fasteners, which reduces the reliability of the structure.

Based on the above arguments, it is still worth using standard fasteners. It is allowed to use self-made suspensions, but only in those places where the load-bearing profiles have a slight load, for example, in short (up to 50 cm) jumpers, auxiliary elements and other unloaded areas.

Connection of bearing profiles to each other

To form a good metal frame of a gypsum plasterboard ceiling, in addition to reliable attachment to building structures, it is also necessary to fasten the supporting profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 to each other. The types of connectors have already been discussed, now it is time to consider how exactly to use them.

**Elongation of PP profiles 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27**

In retail chains, these profiles are mainly presented with a length of 3 or 4 meters, which in most cases is enough to create any ceiling structure using solid pieces of profiles, and this, in principle, should always be tried to be done. It is very rare, but there are situations when this length is not enough, so the profile must be lengthened. This can be done using standard connectors or alternatively.

**Application of profile extensions PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27**

As practice shows, it is best to use a standard profile extension, which is always on sale, has a cheap price and provides the required connection strength. How to use it?

It is best when the profiles are connected using factory cuts - they are the most even and provide a high-quality joint. In extreme cases, you can carefully make a cut with a grinder according to the preliminary marking with a square and then clean the burrs with a file.
The extension is inserted into one of the profiles inside up to the limiters that are in the side parts. Then the side part of the profile is bent with pliers.
Another profile is pushed onto the other part of the extension and similarly bent with pliers.
The profiles to be joined are placed on a flat surface, the joint is reinforced with self-tapping screws for metal, which must fasten both the profile and the extension. It is recommended to screw in 4 self-tapping screws on each side.
When installing an elongated profile on the ceiling, the connection point is additionally insured with straight or anchor suspensions at a distance of 10 cm from each side, and this must be done regardless of the location of the main suspensions.

**Alternative ways of lengthening profiles PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27**

If you don't have a profile extension at hand, you can make it yourself. Strength, really. It will be somewhat lower, but provided that the connection point is insured with suspensions, this method is quite applicable.

Cut off 10 cm of the profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27.
With scissors for metal or a grinder, the upper bent sides are cut off from this segment.
Pliers align the sides, the lower part is given a concave profile, like a standard extension cord.
Precisely in the middle of the manufactured part, a marker is made with a marker, on which the joint will fall.
Further, the connection proceeds in the same way as in the previous case.

You can do without an intermediate part. Then it is necessary at one end of the profiles to be connected to cut off the bent sides to a length of 10 cm on both sides, then insert one profile into the other, align on a flat surface and fasten with self-tapping screws - 4 on each side. But such a connection is less reliable due to the fact that there is no stiffening rib in the wide part of the profile.

Methods for lengthening profiles are clearly shown in the video.

Video: Extend Profiles

**Connection of profiles PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27 angled in one level**

Connection with the "Crab"

The main way of such a connection of profiles is a connection at an angle of 90 °, and in most cases this is what is used. For this there is a special connector called in everyday life "crab". It is extremely easy to connect profiles using it:

On the main bearing profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, marks are made of the axes of the joined profiles. Most often, jumpers between the main profiles are made every 50-60 cm.
The crab is inserted into the main bearing profile until it clicks when the spring-loaded legs go over the profile edge.
Moving the connector along the profile, align the center of the crab with the mark.
On the crab, the antennae are bent over the main profile and self-tapping screws are screwed through the holes - two on each side, thus, the crab is fixed on the main profile.
On another adjacent main profile, with which the first profile will be joined using a jumper, similar operations are performed to install the crab.
The required length of the bulkhead profile is measured between crabs on adjacent support profiles. For example, the distance between the axes of adjacent profiles is 600 mm, the width of the PP profile 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 is 60 mm. It turns out that the length of the jumper profile should be 600 mm-30 mm-30 mm = 540 mm. In order for the profile not to fit too tightly, but to have a gap, it is cut into a length of 10 mm less: 540 mm-10 mm = 530 mm.
The jumper profile is cut to the required length. Pay particular attention to the quality of the edges. If necessary, their geometry is corrected with pliers, and the burrs are cut off with a file. Excellent quality of a cut is given by a grinder or electric scissors for metal.
The jumper profile is inserted into crabs on the main profiles, snapped into place with paws and fixed with self-tapping screws through the pre-bent antennae.
The operation is repeated at all places where the connection of the profiles is required.

There are situations when it is required to connect in one level two profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 not at a right angle, but at another, or the "crabs" have ended, but you do not want to be distracted from the installation process. Therefore, it is worth considering other connection methods.

Video: Connecting profiles "Crab"

Alternative ways of connecting profiles

Of course, it is preferable to use such profile connectors that are recommended by the manufacturers of components for plasterboard systems. However, many years of installation experience allows us to say that the alternative methods are in no way inferior in strength to the recommended ones. Let's describe one of the most common.

During the installation of the frame, waste profiles inevitably remain, in particular, PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27, which can be used for a single-level connection PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, both cruciform at right angles and T-shaped at right angles angle, and also at any arbitrary angle (there are such situations in complex ceilings). It should be noted that the described method gives the strength of the structure not worse than with "crabs", and much better, in the case of purchasing counterfeit connectors.

On the bearing profiles, marks are made of the axes of the lintel profiles. We remind you that the distance between the jumpers should not be more than 600 mm.
From the remnants of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile, 10 cm segments are cut. A mark is made in their middle.
A section of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile is applied to the side shelf of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile, while the pre-marked marks are aligned, and the lower edges of the profiles are set at the same level.
With self-tapping screws for metal (TN9 or LN9), the segment is attached to the main profile. The distance from the edge of the segment to the attachment point is 10 mm. For these purposes, it is quite possible to use a cutter.
In all designated places on the main bearing profiles, the sections from the guide profile are installed as described above.
Jumpers are cut from the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile, and their length should be 10 mm less than the distance between the main profiles. This will greatly facilitate installation, the structure of the frame will not burst.
The lintels are inserted at the designated places, the centerline is aligned with the mark on the structural profile. Fastening is done with a self-tapping screw (TN9 or LN9) or a cutter. One attachment point is quite enough, since the main load falls on the bearing profiles, and the subsequent plasterboard sheathing will give the structure even greater rigidity.

Such a connection of ceiling profiles in one level is practically not inferior in strength to the "Crab"

Obviously, to connect profiles at an angle, the operations are performed in exactly the same way as described above. The only difference is that the jumpers are cut at the required angle, which is easy to mark by attaching the profile to the attachment point. You can, of course, use a standard universal single-level connector from Knauf, but practice shows that they are used extremely rarely, therefore it is very difficult to find them on sale.

There are still other alternative ways of connecting profiles at an angle in one level. To do this, the end of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile is cut with metal scissors as shown in the figure. This method is widely used, but the team of authors of our portal does not advise the readers to do this, since the strength of the structure is greatly reduced because the side curved shelves are inevitably cut off, which give the profile the necessary rigidity. In addition, there is an increased consumption of the more expensive profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, and the resulting cuttings are no longer good for anything, but the cuttings PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 will always find use of waste from them practically will not be.

Arrangement of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Finally, the time has come to move on to practical actions and start equipping a unique and inimitable ceiling with your own hands. For the convenience of perception and a complete understanding of the process, the team of the authors of the article divided this process into several stages.

Defining the ceiling design

Surprisingly, this question is one of the most difficult in arranging multi-level ceilings, because there is no shortage of drywall and all the components, you can find high-class craftsmen or technically flawlessly perform the installation of the ceiling structure yourself, but an incorrectly chosen design can nullify all efforts. Therefore, the question of choosing the right design is paramount and everything should start with it. Therefore, at this stage it is possible to attract a good specialist in this area, who, unfortunately, are in the minority. Another good way would be to study already implemented projects on the Internet, of which there is just a sea and the choice of the most suitable for specific conditions. In turn, the team of authors of this article will provide some tips.

A multi-level plasterboard ceiling, in addition to a decorative function, also performs an engineering function: electrical wiring and low-current systems, lamps, ventilation and air conditioning systems, exhaust ducts in kitchens and bathrooms and more can be located in the space between building structures. In no case should design harm engineering systems, but should coexist peacefully in favor of the former. For example, for the sake of the designer's intention, the duct of a kitchen hood is forced to make many turns, which increase the resistance to air flow, and, therefore, reduce efficiency and increase noise.

The design of the plasterboard ceiling should not exist separately from the interior of the entire room. On the contrary, he should emphasize all its details: the location of upholstered furniture, tables and cabinets, the combined flooring, the presence of various significant interior details: a bar counter, flowerpots with flowers, a large aquarium, a TV set and others.
Modern design presupposes laconicism, strict geometry, symmetry and functionality. The era of pretentious forms, many curved lines, heap of tiers and unreasonable by any laws of harmony delusional decisions of self-taught designers has passed.

In most of the housing stock in Russia, the ceiling height is on average 2.5 meters, so it should be remembered that the space is not infinite - the less the two-level structure "eats" precious centimeters, the better, but you should take into account the diameters of the air ducts, the dimensions of the installed lamps and other equipment. Usually the first level, if there are no built-in lamps in it, is mounted at a distance of 5-7 cm from the ceiling, and the second 10-20 cm.
The best lighting is a combination of directional and ambient light. The best place to install spotlights is the second level of the plasterboard ceiling, and the main source of diffused lighting (chandeliers) is the geometric center of the room or a specific area located on the first (uppermost) level of the ceiling.
Rectangular shapes of multi-level ceilings (including those with rounded corners) are suitable for visual narrowing or expansion of premises; the shape of a circle or ellipse emphasizes the center of a room or the center of a specific area in a large room; many curved lines can only be used in a dynamic interior that combines several styles, but not in the classics.
Most often, the second (lower) level, where the spotlights are embedded, is mounted around the perimeter of the room, and the first level is located in the center. In this case, the second level is called either a box or a curb. It can have both smooth edges, and curly, and rounded, and others.

If the second level is also located in the center of the first level, which is sometimes justified in terms of design, then this detail is called an island. For example, in a large kitchen, the work surface is located in the center, respectively, an island is made on the ceiling, where the hood duct and lighting are hidden.

An example of an "island" in a modern kitchen

In two-level ceilings, illumination (LED strip or duralight) is very easy to implement, which gives the interior a mystery and intimacy. The backlighting works especially well in bedrooms.
When designing a ceiling, you should consider various lighting scenarios that can change the mood from a noisy party with friends, to emotional gatherings with loved ones and relaxing while watching your favorite movie. The abundance of modern lighting devices and control devices will help you to easily implement this. Then the multi-level plasterboard ceiling realizes all its possibilities.

Also, one should not forget that in one apartment or house there should not be premises that “live” according to separate laws that differ from others. All rooms must be in harmony with each other and, despite some differences, the overall interior design concept must still be maintained. Unless, of course, we are talking about an apartment or a house, and not about an entertainment establishment.

At what stage of repair or construction is a two-level ceiling made?

The creation of a multi-level plasterboard ceiling is not a separate operation, but is included in the complex of construction and repair works, and in the final part - at the stage of final finishing. When exactly can this work begin?

First, all construction processes for the construction of walls, partitions and ceilings must be completed.
Secondly, all engineering systems must be carried out, the wiring of the cables of the lighting system along the ceiling can be done after the construction of the frame.
Third, windows must be inserted.
Fourthly, all "wet" processes must be completed: arrangement of floor screed, plastering of walls and slopes. The room must be ready for final finishing.
And finally, the humidity in the room should not exceed 75%, and the air temperature should not be lower than + 16 ° C.

In the final decoration of the premises, the principle operates - it starts from the ceiling, goes to the walls and ends with the floor. That is, first, the construction of the ceiling is done, the plasterboard cladding, the sealing of the joints, and then the putty of the ceiling and walls, which can be combined in one process so that these very dusty works do not stretch over time.

Preparatory work

After the design of the ceiling has been selected and agreed with all interested parties, you can already begin to implement the selected ceiling in a specific room. But for this it is necessary to draw a plan of the room, on which the consequence is to draw a diagram of the ceiling.

Measurement of the premises, drawing up a plan

In numerous articles on construction and repair, both in magazines and on the Internet, the floor plans are ideal rectangles or other regular geometric shapes on which any ideas of the owners and designers are very easily realized. But at the end of the work, it turns out that the room was far from ideal, which affected those geometric shapes made of drywall.

Human vision has a unique property - without measuring anything, it still immediately estimates that some lines are not parallel, surfaces are not horizontal, a circle or an ellipse is not ideal, and a curve or wavy line does not obey the natural laws of harmony. From this, the whole impression of an ideal and beautiful ceiling can immediately disappear. Therefore, you should measure the room, draw up a drawing and markup correctly. We will describe how to do this, but for this it is worth remembering the school geometry course. All stages of marking in the plan are shown in the figure. All measurements must be carried out in millimeters, as is customary throughout the world.

First of all, you need to find the geometric center of the room, which is always at the intersection of the diagonals. To do this, a paint cord is pulled from corner to corner, and two diagonals are "beaten off". In this place, you can immediately screw a dowel or self-tapping screw, depending on the material of the ceiling.
The diagonals are measured and recorded. In the figure, these are segments D1D3 and D2D4. If their length is equal, then the owner can be congratulated - his room is perfectly rectangular in shape, and if not, then it is a trapezoid or just a quadrangle.
The length of the short walls is measured, and their midpoints (points H1 and H2) are found, between which the cord is stretched. If the cord hits the geometric center, then great - the line is immediately beaten off, if not, then it is displaced by the amount of deviation and is beaten off with a paint cord.
A similar operation is performed with long walls, the segment V1V is beaten off
Now you need to build perpendiculars to the H1H2 line. To do this, you do not need to use a gon, which also has its own error, but it is better to apply the method of geometric constructions. Equal segments Od1, Od2, Od3, Od4 are marked on the diagonals from the center. It is best if they do not reach the corners of 10-15 cm in order to simplify the layout.
Points d1, d2, d3, d4 are connected and the result is a rectangle (by the condition of equality of diagonals), from which all further marking and construction of the frame will "dance".
A floor plan is made on a sheet of graph paper (better than A3 format). To do this, on a scale (1:50 or 1:25), a horizontal line is drawn on which the center is indicated.
The distances OH1, Oh1, OH2, Oh2 are measured on the ceiling and plotted on paper in a selected scale.
From the points h1 and h2, perpendicular straight lines are drawn, on which the segments h1d1, h1d2, h2d3, h2d4 are laid, which must be equal.
Straight lines are drawn from the center through points d1, d2, d3, d4 - these are the diagonals of the room. On them we lay down on a scale the segments OD1, OD2, OD3, OD4 previously measured on the ceiling.
We connect the points d1, d2, d3, d4 D1, D2, D3, D We get the outer rectangle - this is the true geometry of the room, and the inner one is the correct geometry, which will be correctly perceived even by the most discerning human eye.

Everything, the floor plan is ready, now the owner's task is to enter the chosen design into a specific room on his own or with the help of specialists. It is recommended to mark with a thin pencil on the plan the future arrangement of furniture on a scale that reflects its true dimensions, as this can greatly affect the design of the ceiling. Of course, it is best to use computer 3D visualization programs, but for people with a rich imagination, it will be enough to lie on the floor and, holding the plan in outstretched hands in front of their eyes, imagine the future ceiling.

Determination of the level of the ceiling, revision of its surface

The plane of any ceiling must be strictly horizontal, however, slabs or monolithic floors, even in new houses, unfortunately, do not always meet this requirement. Therefore, it is necessary to "beat off" the horizontal level and check the plane of the ceiling. How it's done?

On one of the walls, closer to the corner, a horizontal mark is made with a pencil or marker at a distance of 10-20 cm from the ceiling.
With the help of a water level (spirit level) or a laser level, this mark is transferred to other places - 2-3 marks on each wall. When using a spirit level, make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube and that it is not located near heating devices.

With a paint cord, set at the marks, horizontal lines are beaten off on all walls - we get a horizontal plane.
The distance in the corners and in the middle of each of the walls from the line to the plane of the ceiling is measured and their difference is estimated.
If the difference in distances is a few millimeters (up to 5), then such a ceiling can serve as the first level of a two-tier structure, and all flaws will be straightened out with puttying.
If the difference is from 5 mm to 5 cm, then the irregularities can be straightened by plastering the ceiling with a reinforcing mesh, and only then it will act as the first level.
If the difference is more than 5 cm (sometimes it happens) - there is no way to do without covering this "disgrace" with a suspended structure.

In addition to the plane, it is necessary to check the quality of the surface, which in the future will have to be plastered, putty or covered with a suspended ceiling. What are the options and what decisions can be made?

In an apartment or house, the ceiling is whitewashed (painted) over plaster. In this case, it is necessary to wash off the whitewash, and beat off the old plaster to the ground. After that, plaster and putty. This is an extremely time-consuming and troublesome process, so the best solution would be to cover such a ceiling completely behind the suspended structure.
If in old houses the floors are wooden, then the ceilings must definitely be hidden, especially since the height of the ceilings in such housing is usually from 2.7 to 3 meters and it is possible, without prejudice to the height of the room, to "roam" in the creation of any plasterboard structure.

If the ceiling has a solid foundation, is plastered, and all communications have already been carried out, then it is quite possible to simply putty it and use it as the first level.
If the ceiling is a bare concrete slab, which is often the case in newly built houses, then it will still have to be plastered and putty or hidden behind a suspended structure, which will additionally hide all communications.

As can be seen from the above, in most cases it is beneficial to make both levels of the ceiling from gypsum plasterboard, since the plaster and surface putty with the preliminary removal of the old finish will be at a price no lower than the plasterboard structure. Moreover, a competently mounted first level of the ceiling “eats up” from a height of 5-6 cm, which does not bring any discomfort, and the correct design and color scheme can visually raise the ceiling.

Choosing a scheme for the implementation of a two-level ceiling

The time has come to choose a specific scheme according to which the ceiling will be implemented. The fact is that regardless of the infinite number of plasterboard ceiling implementations, there are only a few typical schemes. Let's consider them sequentially, breaking down into groups.

First level - plastered ceiling

In this case, it is possible to implement boxes (borders) along the walls of the room, and leave free space in the center of the ceiling, which must be carefully, since when the light is on, imperfections in the surface will immediately be visible. You can also organize islands from the GCR, with which you can zoning the room. Naturally, built-in lamps are placed in the second level, and illumination in the form of a light cord or light-emitting diode (LED) strip can also be used. Currently, the price of LED products is falling rapidly and you can quite afford a multicolor RGB LED strip with a control unit and a remote control.

Option 1: Without lighting eaves

The figure clearly shows the construction of such a ceiling in section. Profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 on the wall is fixed on the dowel-nails and it sets the second horizontal level of the ceiling. On the ceiling, the same profile is fixed to metal wedge anchors, it sets its shape in plan, and it does not have to be rectangular. The horizontal size of the box is set by the section of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile inserted into the guide profile on the wall and fastened to it with an LN9 or LB9 self-tapping screw. A guide profile is mounted on the ends of the horizontal PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, and sections of the same PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 are screwed to it from above, which will be the basis for fastening the vertical sections of the PP / CD profile. This is how the frame of the box is formed.

The diagram does not indicate direct suspensions, which must secure the horizontal profile. Apparently, the authors of the figure considered that with such dimensions, suspensions were not needed, but the team of the authors of the article still recommends using them.

Option 2: With a cornice for lighting

The figure shows a diagram of the implementation of a two-level ceiling with a cornice, where the lighting will be placed. Previously, neon lamps, light cords - Duralight and even Christmas tree garlands were used. Now the best choice is LED strips with a self-adhesive layer.

The design difference from the previous version is minimal. To create a cornice, the horizontal profile is lengthened by 5-10 cm.To attach the horizontal profile to the vertical one, you need to make cuts to a depth of 2.5 cm, bend the wide part of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profiles inward, and cut off the curly ends of the shelves, or, after making an incision, press it with pliers. Then, through the resulting side legs, you can securely fasten the two profiles with self-tapping screws for metal. PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is attached to the end of the horizontal profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27. At the stage of sheathing the frame, a strip of drywall 3 cm-5 cm wide is attached to this profile.

A two-level plasterboard ceiling, in which the surface of the ceiling itself acts as the first level, has a number of undeniable advantages:

This is easier to make.
Much less material is used.
The design of the ceiling takes away less precious centimeters of the height of the room.
The frame is fastened directly to the building structures - the ceiling and walls, which increases reliability.

The disadvantages of such designs are:

On old ceilings, you will have to knock down the old plaster to the ground, and this is a laborious process.
To summarize the wiring at the first level, you will need a gutter.
Ideal to plaster and much more difficult than perfectly flat drywall sheets.
Poor insulation.

That is why most often the owners and craftsmen prefer to completely cover the ceiling under drywall, under which there may simply be bare floor slabs.

First level - plasterboard ceiling

In this case, you can simply “close your eyes” to all the disadvantages of the ceiling and, as a result, get a perfect surface. This approach can be compared to applying makeup, only you do not need to take it off every day, but it will serve faithfully for a long time. Consider what options for arranging the ceiling are used.

Option 3: Fixing the second level of the ceiling to the first

In this case, first, the frame of the first level of the ceiling is mounted. For the successful construction of the frame, it is enough to set the guides of the first level at a distance of 5 cm from the lowest point of the ceiling. Then the first level of the ceiling will lower the height by only 5 cm + 9 mm (thickness of the gypsum board) = 59 mm. Even in a room with a ceiling height of 2.5 meters, it will be invisible.

The figure shows the structure of such a ceiling in section. It is very similar to the previous schemes, the only difference is that the vertical profiles of the second level box are fastened not to the ceiling, but to the frame of the first level. Naturally, such a ceiling can be equipped with a cornice for illumination - just as in the previous example.

In the above figure, it is noted that the first level, which is under the box of the second, is not sewn up with drywall. And this is absolutely correct. What for? Although both in the literature and on the Internet there are a lot of examples when the box of the second is mounted only after the complete sheathing of the first level. This option is suitable only for those who like to "bury" extra square meters of drywall (which cost money), but not for a reasonable and zealous owner.

The main disadvantages of this option are high material consumption, as well as lower reliability - after all, the second level is attached to the “intermediary” - the first level, and not to more durable and reliable building structures.

Option 4: Fastening the first level of the plasterboard ceiling to the second

This is the most elegant solution for arranging a two-level ceiling, combining the advantages of all options. The diagram shows that the second-level box is fastened to building structures, which increases the reliability of the structure. The first level is also attached to the ceiling, and guides are fixed on the vertical surfaces of the box, which do not carry a large load, but only set the plane.

The advantages of ceilings in which both levels are "wired" with plasterboard are:

No need to deal with troublesome and "wet" processes for removing old plaster and applying a new one.
Possibility to carry out all the necessary communications under drywall.
The best insulation.
Comparatively simple finishing method.
Quick installation.

The only drawback of such designs is the high material consumption.

Drafting a plasterboard ceiling

After there is a clear understanding of the design of the ceiling, a plan of the room has been drawn up, taking into account the actual dimensions and configuration of the room, a design option has been chosen, you can start drawing up a project. The authors of the article immediately give advice to home craftsmen - it is better to copy the previously drawn floor plan in several copies at once, since when drawing up the project, adjustments can be made, and the most dramatic ones. That is why, in order not to redraw the floor plan several times, it is better to have several blanks.

When transferring the selected design to the floor plan, nothing should be drawn by hand, everything should be justified in terms of geometry. It's easy to draw a beautiful figure by hand on a piece of paper, but how to draw it on the ceiling? That is why, using only a compass, a ruler and a protractor, it is necessary to fit the chosen design into strict mathematical laws. It is worth imagining such a picture - in front of the installer there is a clean ceiling without any marks. Having at hand only a tape measure, a compass (we will tell you how to make it later) and a pencil, the installer must transfer all the markings from the project to the ceiling.

Read the tips for choosing in a new article on our portal.

If you cannot do this yourself, then you can turn to specialists who, using special software, will do it all beautifully. An example of a well-executed ceiling plan is shown in the figure.

What should be indicated on the plan?

First, all constructions on the plan must start from the geometric center of the room.
Secondly, all dimensions of the boxes must be indicated.
Thirdly, if the configuration of the ceiling assumes rounding, then the position of the centers of the circles in relation to the geometric center and their radii should be indicated.
Fourthly, if a complex curve is assumed, then it must be constructed by the method of conjugation of circular arcs, for which both the center and the radii are also indicated.
Fifth, the center lines of the location of the built-in lamps, their specific position and the diameters of the holes for them must be indicated. On straight sections with reference to the geometric center, and on arcs in polar coordinates, which implies specifying the center of the circle, angle and radius.
And, finally, the finished ceiling plan is also better to print or photocopy in several copies.

After drawing up the plan, it is necessary to make a diagram of engineering communications, which includes:

Locations for junction boxes.
The type of wires and their cross-section.
Method of connecting lamps. For example, if everything is supposed to light up and go out together, then it is enough to bring one wire and run it in a loop - from one to the other, providing a parallel connection. If several zones or different lighting scenarios are envisaged, then it is necessary to lead separate wires from switches or controller to groups or even to each individual luminaire.
Wire routing.
If exhaust or ventilation ducts will pass through the ceiling, then their position should also be indicated.

The project of the ceiling frame should include the placement of profiles PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 and PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, the position of straight or anchor suspensions, "crabs", the layout of drywall sheets. The framing project is best done on a pre-copied ceiling plan. What needs to be done for this?

From the geometric center of the room, set aside 300 mm (to scale) to each side along the axes of a regular rectangle d1d2d3d4 (see the floor plan).
Construct a grid of mutually perpendicular straight lines with a step of 600 mm - these will be the center lines of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profiles.
Mark the position of the straight hangers on the first level of the ceiling. To do this, from the center line up and down, set aside 250 mm (to scale) along all grid lines. Then place the hangers with an interval of 500 mm. The suspension closest to the box should not be further than 200 mm from it. In which case, change the placement scheme by changing the intervals between them in the direction of decreasing, but the suspension should not be on the line of intersection of the axes of the profiles.
If the horizontal profiles of the box have a length of more than 300 mm, then mark the position of the suspensions in their middle (straight, if the distance to the ceiling is less than or equal to 120 mm, or anchor, if the distance is greater).
Designate all the places on the first level of the ceiling where the Crab connector will be applied - these are nothing more than the intersection points of the lines.
Make a layout of drywall sheets on the plan. Sheets should be placed along the main bearing profiles (those on which the suspensions are placed). GKL should be laid apart, that is, the seams of the joints of adjacent sheets should not coincide. The minimum distance is 600 mm. All joints must fall strictly on the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profiles. First, the layout of the first level is done, and the remaining pieces can be used for sheathing the box. When laying out sheets, it is very convenient to pieces of cardboard on the scale of the ceiling plan, which will display the gypsum board (dimensions 2500 * 1200 mm). So, by laying and cutting these pieces, you can estimate the required amount of drywall and determine the optimal layout.
The required number of profiles, "crabs", suspensions, plasterboard sheets is calculated. At this stage, it is advisable to involve an experienced installer so as not to buy too much, since a drawback can be bought in addition, and it is very difficult to sell the surplus.
When purchasing gypsum board and components, you can safely add 15% to the calculated figures, since there will be errors in the calculations, adjustments will be made to the structure during installation, and errors are inevitable that lead to breakage of the ceiling parts.

Some home craftsmen at the design stage even try to count the number of screws needed to mount the ceiling. In the community of installers, this is taken as bad manners, so it is better to stock up on two boxes of 1000 pieces of self-tapping screws for metal and drywall. Only at first glance this is a lot, but in reality it may not be enough - it all depends on the design of the ceiling. It is better to purchase gypsum board in advance. For 7-10 days, so that the sheets "get used" to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room where they will be mounted.

Ceiling markings

After drawing up plans and a project of a two-level ceiling, it is necessary to transfer the drawing from paper to the ceiling, and this must be done by means of geometric constructions, as well as on a paper plan. And for this you need the same tools: a ruler, a compass, a protractor (although the main angles of 30 °, 45 ° and 60 ° can be built only with the help of a compass and a ruler). For the ceiling, the rule is a tape measure and a compass made by yourself. Everything is clear with the first two positions, but with the third it is necessary to give some advice from practice.

spotlight

It is necessary to designate all the centers of the circles, transfer them from the plan to the ceiling. Earlier, when taking dimensions, diagonals were already drawn, axes were drawn, a regular rectangle was built, so there should not be any difficulties in this matter.
In the geometric center of the ceiling (at the intersection of the diagonals), as well as in all the centers of the circles, it is necessary to drive in the dowels and tighten the screws so that their head protrudes 10-15 mm.
A piece of the required length is cut from the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile, which should slightly exceed the largest circle radius on the ceiling plan.
A hole with a diameter of 4 mm is drilled at one of the ends of the profile, which will serve as the center of the circle.
From this hole, the required radii are measured, according to the plan of the ceiling, holes are drilled in these places where a marker or pencil will be placed. Near these holes, the values of the radii are written with a thin marker.
If you fix the profile in the center of one of the circles on the ceiling, you get a compass for drawing the circles. To do this, after fixing in the center, a marker or pencil is placed in the other, pre-drilled holes and a circle or arc of the required radius is drawn.

A compass can also be made from an inextensible cord, on which the required sections are measured, but the device from the profile is much more convenient to use and has better accuracy.

Tip: The PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile prepared as a compass can be used to construct right angles. To do this, it is necessary to postpone distances of 30, 40 and 50 cm from the center. By constructing a Pythagorean triangle (Egyptian triangle), you can get a right angle on any surface.

When all the tools are ready, you can start marking up. What, first of all, needs to be transferred from the project to the ceiling?

Firstly, the first and second levels of the ceiling must be beaten off on the walls. The first level can be located at a distance of 50 mm from the lowest point of the ceiling, and the second at a distance of 10-30 cm from the first (it all depends on the height of the ceiling and the configuration of the room). It is best to do this with a laser level, and in its absence - with a water level (spirit level).
secondly, all the axial lines of the ceiling profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, both bearing and lintels, are transferred to the ceiling. This is quite easy to do, since there is already a rectangle on the ceiling that was drawn when drawing up the floor plan. By measuring the required distances along the sides of the rectangle, you can build a grid of centerlines with a step of 600 mm.
Thirdly, the locations of the suspensions (straight and anchor) are marked.
Fourthly, the configuration of the box of the second level of the ceiling is drawn, and this is done by the method of geometric constructions - with a compass, made in advance, and a ruler.
And finally, the locations of the built-in lamps in the box and the source of the main light (chandeliers), as well as the points where the junction boxes will be mounted, are marked.

Installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the room. For this:

All furniture is taken out of the room.
It is advisable to cover the floor with cardboard and plastic wrap, as platforms and a ladder will often be rearranged, and there will also be a lot of dusty work.
If the room has a door, then it should be wrapped with plastic wrap and pasted over with tape, and if not, then a large piece of dense fabric (for example, an old bedspread or curtains) is hung in the doorway, completely covering the opening. When dusty work will be carried out, the cloth is moistened with water from a spray bottle.
It is also advisable to close the windows from dust - for this, their entire window opening can be covered with plastic wrap and pasted over with masking tape. The window sill can be covered with old newspapers or cloth. After the completion of the work, the room must be ventilated daily.
It is advisable to have at least two bright sources of light: scattered - for the entire room, and directed in the form of carrying - to illuminate the work area.
It is advisable to have a mounting table, which can be an old kitchen table or a high platform.
To collect garbage and waste, which will be sufficient, you need to have a large bucket.

Example 1: Plasterboard box in the kitchen

Let us describe sequentially the process of installing the frame of a two-level ceiling. As a first example, let's take a look at the process of creating a drywall box, which is located above the kitchen corner countertop. Built-in lamps, as well as a kitchen hood duct, must be installed in the box. The surface of the ceiling is leveled and putty, so it was chosen as the first level. We will present all stages of installation in the form of a table.

Illustration	Description of the installation steps
	The ceiling and walls are marked according to the project. The electrical wiring placed in the corrugated pipe (required!) Is best pulled together with plastic clamps and fixed in the corner between the surface of the ceiling and the wall so that there is no interference during installation.
	A sealing tape is glued to the back of the profiles PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27, and then they are attached along the pre-marked lines to the walls with dowel-nails in increments of 30-40 cm, and to the ceiling with anchor-wedges in increments of 25 cm. In the corners the profile inserted into each other and fastened with a TN9 or LN9 self-tapping screw. These guide profiles determine the dimensions of the future box.
	The distance is measured from the ceiling to the bottom edge of the wall guide profile. From the profile PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, metal scissors cut the segments, the length of which is 10 mm less than the measured distance. At the end of the segments, the side shelves are cut off 2.5 cm from the end of the profile, and a tongue is made from the back, as shown in the figure. The result is suspensions.
	The resulting suspensions are fastened with TN9 or LN9 self-tapping screws to the ceiling profile with a pitch of 40-60 cm. At the same time, they must be placed at the ends of the profiles, before any bends at the joints of the drywall sheets.
	A guide profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is attached to the lower part (to the tongue) of the suspensions. Attachment is made through the backrest, and sharp edges should be directed towards the wall. When fastening, the level is controlled by the horizontalness of the plane formed by the lower part of the wall and mounted guide profiles. You can also control the correctness of installation with a tape measure - the distance from the ceiling to the bottom of the profile should be equal on all suspensions. At the ends, the mounted and wall profile must be fastened with a self-tapping screw.
	On the ceiling, according to the project, the places for the installation of recessed luminaires are outlined.
	A wire is pulled to the installation sites of the luminaires (best of all PVA 2 * 0.75). Since all lamps must be turned on simultaneously, it can be pulled with a loop - to the first lamp, then from the first to the second, etc. All wires are placed in a corrugated pipe with a diameter of 16 mm and are attached to the ceiling with plastic clamps. The length is made so that they hang 15-20 cm below the plane of the box.
	The distance from the wall to the back of the guide profile mounted on the suspensions is measured in the designated places, which should not fall on the installation sites of the luminaires. Pieces of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile are cut, which should be 10 mm less than the measured distance. The obtained segments are inserted into the profiles PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27. This is how the guides of the lower plane of the box are formed.
	Horizontal sections of the profile are set perpendicular to the wall using a square.
	And then they are fixed with a TN9 or LN9 self-tapping screw.
	The verticality of the front of the box is checked using a square.
	And also fastened with a self-tapping screw. Attention should be paid to the fact that the axial lines of the vertical and horizontal profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 do not coincide, so that in the future there are no joints of drywall vertical and horizontal planes on the same line.
	Plasterboard strips of the required size are cut and attached to the front of the box with TN 25 self-tapping screws. For the kitchen, it is better to use moisture-resistant drywall (GKLV). The fixing step is 10-15 cm, all joints should be in the middle of the PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27 profile.
	All engineering communications are checked. A kitchen hood air duct is installed. In this particular case, a rectangular air duct with a cross section of 120 * 60 mm is best suited, allowing you to install hoods with a capacity of up to 350 m 3 / h.
	Sheets of drywall are cut to size for sheathing the bottom of the box. Fastening is done with self-tapping screws TN 25 with a pitch of 10-15 cm. Joints should only be in the middle of the profiles. On the horizontal surface of the box, the places for the installation of built-in lamps are immediately outlined. Small holes can be drilled for this.
	GKL joints are putty and reinforced with a serpyanka, aluminum reinforcing corners are glued. Then the entire surface of the box is putty in two passes with grinding. Then fillets are glued.
	The fillets and the lower plane of the box are painted white, and the side surface is painted in a color corresponding to the walls. The holes are cut with the crown into which the lamps are mounted. The box is ready.

The most important thing with structures is to understand the very principle of constructing frames and covering them with gypsum boards. Then any, even the most complex ceiling design, can be implemented independently.

Example 2: Installation of a two-level backlit ceiling

In this example, we will consider the installation sequence of a complex two-level ceiling, in which the second level occupies the main area of the ceiling, and the first level is a round island, in the middle of which a hanging lamp is mounted. This ceiling has an additional illumination function.

Such a non-standard and beautiful solution will be justified only in rooms with high ceilings. Let's describe the technological process of creating such a ceiling.

Illustration	Description of the installation steps
	Using a hydro level or a laser level, marks are placed on the ceiling, defining the second level of the false ceiling. Labels are connected with a line using a rule.
	A guide profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is mounted along the line through a sealing tape.
	To mark the circle, a section of the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile is taken, one end is fixed in the center and circles (inner and outer) of the required diameters are drawn through the pre-drilled holes with a pencil or marker.
	Profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 is cut with scissors for metal into segments 10 cm long. In this case, the cut is on the side shelf and back of the profile.
	The notched profile is applied to the outer circle on the ceiling and is attached to each segment with 6 * 60 mm dowel-nails.
	By placing the bubble level on the lower plane of the wall guide profile and placing it horizontally, you can measure the distance from the ceiling in the area of the circle to the lower level with a tape measure. It is of this width that a strip of gypsum board will be required to form the side of the central circle.
	From the plasterboard sheet, cut along a strip of the desired width. The back side (marked) is rolled with a needle roller, and then moistened with a paint roller with water until the gypsum ceases to absorb water. The main thing is not to overdo it and not to allow the drywall to be completely saturated with water. After about 10 minutes, it can be gently bent.
	A strip of drywall is applied to the inner side of the circle formed by the perforated profile and screwed into each segment with self-tapping screws. Work is necessarily carried out with a partner. The joints of the strips are reinforced with a piece of PP 60 * 27 profile placed under them.
	The PN 58 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile is cut into 10 cm segments, only in this case only the side shelves are cut. Further, it is applied to the lower part of the plasterboard strip circle and attached with TN 25 self-tapping screws in each segment.
	Taking into account the significant plane of the ceiling, the bearing profiles will be laid in two tiers, the bearing capacity of such a ceiling is higher. The upper bearing level of the profiles PP 60 * 27 is laid and fixed on top of the wall PN 28 * 27 with an interval of 1 meter. At the intersection of the profile with the central circle, its end is trimmed in accordance with the radius of curvature and is also laid and fastened on top of the perforated guide profile of the circle.
	Perpendicular to the bearing profiles with a step of 50 cm, the lower level of the profiles is laid, which are already inserted into the wall guide profile PN 28 * 27. When crossing with a circle, the end is trimmed in accordance with the radius of curvature and inserted into the perforated profile PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 of the circle.
	If necessary, if the length of the profile is insufficient, it is extended with an extension cord.
	At the intersection of the profiles of the upper and lower levels, two-level connectors are installed (they are also called two-level "crabs").
	On the upper bearing level of the profiles PP 60 * 27 / CD 60 * 27, direct suspensions are installed with an interval of 50 cm (just in the middle between the points of intersection with the lower tier of the profiles). The hangers are fixed to the ceiling with two wedge anchors 6 mm in diameter. After installation of all suspensions, a cord is pulled to the ceiling in the lower plane of the ceiling, all profiles are sequentially level and fixed on straight suspensions with TN9 or LN9 self-tapping screws (4 for each suspension). After that, the frame is checked and the wiring is connected to the backlight.
	Plasterboard sheets are mounted on the frame with the long side parallel to the bearing (upper) profiles. This method of fastening will provide a higher rigidity of the ceiling structure and ensure that all the end joints of the gypsum board will fall on the lower level profile (the length of the gypsum plasterboard is 2500 mm, and the distance between the axes of the profile is 500 mm). The step of fastening with screws TN25 is 200 mm.
	In the area of the central circle, drywall sheets are mounted with a margin, so that later on to form a circle of a smaller diameter, in order to place a hidden backlight in the resulting niche. To draw a circle with the desired radius, a temporary profile is attached to the edges of the gypsum board in the projection of the center of the circle on the ceiling. A previously used compass from the guide profile is attached to it and a circle is drawn with a smaller radius than on the flow.
	A plasterboard file is used to cut along the circumference. After that, the edges are processed with a drywall plane.
	In order to hide the lamps, you need to make a border. To do this, the PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 profile is cut into 10 cm segments with metal scissors (the cut must fall on the side shelf and back). The profile is attached to the edge of the round opening (back down, sharp edges up) through the drywall from bottom to top with TN25 screws for each segment. Further, a plasterboard strip 5-7 cm wide (pre-rolled with a needle roller and moistened with water) is attached to this profile.
	A plane is used to bring the joints of the gypsum board, and then a special perforated plastic corner is applied to the joint between the horizontal plane of the ceiling and the vertical plane of the plasterboard strip and "shot" with a stapler to the drywall.
	The end edges of the gypsum plasterboard sheets, which do not have thinned edges, are prepared for the subsequent sealing of the joints. For this, the edges of the sheets are cut with a construction knife to form a groove. Any sticking out pieces of cardboard should also be trimmed with a knife.
	To improve the adhesion of the putty, all seams are treated with a primer. Before that, to remove dust, you can wipe the entire surface of the ceiling with a soft, slightly damp cloth.
	To seal the gypsum board joints, a specially designed putty (ready-made or requiring preparation) is used. The most famous are: Knauf Fugenfüller, Knauf Uniflot, Shitrok, Vetonit and others. Putty is applied to all joints, as well as to those places where there are screws.
	At the joints, a reinforcing tape-serpyanka is buried in the putty with a narrow spatula. After that, the next layer of putty is applied and leveled with a wide spatula.
	The perforated plastic corner and the surfaces next to it are also treated with putty.
	After sanding, you will most likely find out that another leveling layer of putty will be required. After its application and drying, the surface is once again sanded with a fine mesh float (from 400), primed and painted.
	Luminaires are installed in the niche, which can be fluorescent lamps, a light cord or LED strips. The lamp is suspended in the center of the circle.

Video: Secrets of craftsmanship when working with drywall and profile

Video: Example of installing a two-level ceiling

Video: Duplex plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen

Video: Installation of a multi-level ceiling, part 1

Conclusion

Drywall is a unique material for decoration and, above all, it is interesting in that having a very simple set of tools and basic skills in working with it, any good owner will be able to independently create his own, beautiful and unique ceiling and other structures. It is not in vain that the authors of the article paid a lot of attention to seemingly "insignificant little things": fasteners, connection of profiles, fastening the frame to building structures, design, marking, etc. The fact is that understanding these "little things", understanding the basic principles of working with drywall will help in the future to realize any of your ideas and give your home a unique look. The best design is one that is made by yourself and for yourself. The best two-level ceiling is one that is made by hand. Summing up the article, the authors wish to give several theses:

A plasterboard ceiling can be made in a couple of weeks, and mistakes made at the design and installation stage will remind of themselves for much longer - years. Therefore, more attention should be paid to the choice of design and design.
The plasterboard ceiling is a non-separable structure, therefore all engineering communications hidden behind it must be carried out and made flawlessly.
The purchase of drywall and components should be done only by well-known brands and from trusted sellers. Unfortunately, there are a lot of counterfeit products on the market.
In the dispute between the album of technical solutions of the firm of the manufacturer of plasterboard structures and the argument “I did this a hundred times”, the album of technical solutions should win out of a single master.
When you create a plasterboard ceiling yourself, especially for the first time, mistakes are inevitable, and you should not be afraid of them. A good master is one who made many mistakes, but realized them, corrected them in time and will not allow them in the future.

Successful renovation!

A two-level plasterboard ceiling is widely used in interior decoration. Unlike stretch ceilings, such a structure can be mounted independently if you have the skills of construction and installation work and work with plasterboard.

Such a ceiling has a number of advantages.

Drywall is an environmentally friendly and durable material.
A huge field for design creativity is created: various combinations of colors, lamps and shapes - in contrast to a single-level ceiling.
The coating will hide the defects of the main ceiling.
Inside the structure are hidden wires, pipes, vents and even a curtain.

What is the structure of a two-level plasterboard ceiling?

Construction is a complex structure from the supporting frame, plasterboard sheets and connecting elements. Additionally, the final finishing of the coating will be required. The installation of such a structure is a laborious process. This results in a durable, unique and very attractive ceiling. In addition, it can be assembled on your own and according to your own project.

The supporting structure will be made up of ceiling and guide profiles fixed with screws and anchors and hangers.

In addition to drywall sheets, you will also need connecting elements and facing materials.

For rooms with high humidity, especially in the kitchen, it is recommended to use special moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets. They are green and labeled accordingly.

It is convenient to use wallpaper as finishing materials. This coating is the least labor-intensive for covering seams and screw heads. A long process of filling all these irregularities will not be required. If painting is supposed, then a primer and high-quality water-based paint will be required - all the flaws of the finish are clearly visible on the drywall.

Same need to take into account, which decreases the height of the room. The first level (high) lowers the ceiling by 3-4 cm, and the decorative level (low) by about 10 cm. If the ceiling is even and has no visible defects, you can use it as a base level and only mount the decorative second level.

Weight of structure for 1 m² will be about 10 kg.

How is a two-level ceiling mounted?

Recommended the installation of the ceiling structure should be carried out before other finishing works. If the flooring will not be repaired after the ceiling has been installed, it is advisable to cover the floor with a dense covering - preferably cardboard.

Installation is carried out in a dry, warm room.

When installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling, you will need the following materials and tools.

Materials (edit):

drywall sheets;
profiles PP 6O / 27;
self-tapping screws for metal;
dowels;
insulating materials: fiberglass, foam, etc .;
metal and plastic corners for alignment;
universal primer;
plaster;
putty;
water-based paint;
mounting tape.

Tools:

scissors for metal and (or) grinder;
level;
screwdriver;
putty knife;
roller with short nap or velor;
drill (mixing attachment).

Work order roughly next.

Project development. After measuring the room, a project for the future ceiling is developed: the contour and dimensions of the second level, the distribution of lamps, openings for wiring, pipes, ventilation, curtain fasteners, etc.
Ceiling markings - mark the location of the fixtures.
Installation of the supporting structure: fixing the main profiles to the ceiling and aligning them and attaching them to the main supporting profiles.
Fastening drywall sheets.
Putty on seams, edges and screw heads.
Ceiling priming and painting.
Important! Installation of electrical wiring is carried out only by a qualified electrician.

Installation of two-level plasterboard ceilings. Video

First, a decorative lower level is made. The guide profiles are given the necessary shape by making cuts with metal scissors and bending (rounding) them. All rounded profiles are prepared in advance to give them the same shape. The profiles are connected by racks, the length of which is the distance from the ceiling to the lower level.

The frame is attached to the ceiling at the designated points at a distance of 40 cm using special "crabs" (plasterboard hangers), which will additionally adjust the height of the mounts. Particular attention is paid to fastening in the corners. During installation, it is necessary to constantly measure the level. This is the basic construction that defines the outline of the decorative level.

Then, with a step of 60 cm, rack profiles are installed, which are fastened with transverse jumpers with the same step. Cross bridges do not need to be fixed immediately - they are adjusted to fit the joints of drywall sheets.

The profiles are fastened with a pair of dowels 8 * 80, jumpers - with self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 * 11.

Video tutorial: technology for manufacturing two-level plasterboard ceilings.

Fastening drywall

For additional heat and sound insulation, the frame can be filled with light insulating fiber, fiberglass, foam. A qualified electrician will then install the electrical wiring. After that, drywall sheets are attached.

Sheets are pre-cut on the floor, they are shaped and holes for lamps are prepared - a little less than necessary. It is better to widen the hole in place than to create a visible defect in the ceiling.

Parts that need to be bent smoothly can be easily cut from the back or wetted.

The cover is fastened with self-tapping screws (fine thread) using a screwdriver. The hat is slightly recessed into the sheet. If the sheet is pressed through, the fastening is redone in a new place, retreating 3-4 cm.

The sheet is fixed on both sides, after that there is no need to hold it. Self-tapping screws are fixed at a distance of 15 cm.

It is advisable to use large and whole parts (not from pieces) - this way the ceiling will be smoother and will require less effort to finish it.

First, the sheets of the upper tier are attached, then the side parts, at the end - the decorative lower part. The second tier makes it much more difficult to access the upper one. Therefore, it is installed only after the upper part has been assembled and putty.

After installing sheets, the structure is primed with a universal composition. When the primer is dry, the seams are glued with a mounting tape-serpyanka. Outside corners are attached with corners. A metal corner is suitable for a flat contour, a plastic flexible corner is applied to a curved one. A flexible corner is attached to the plaster - a layer of plaster is applied to the corner, the corner is recessed into it. Excess plaster is removed with a spatula.

Painting a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Ceiling painting will require special care and accuracy.- all flaws and defects are visible on a smooth, clearly visible and illuminated surface. Experts consider painting to be one of the main disadvantages of a plasterboard suspended ceiling, which significantly increases the complexity of the installation process.

Often, wallpaper is used for the final finishing of the ceiling - thick wallpaper will hide all structural defects. But coloring is much more attractive from a design point of view.

Before painting, you will need to putty the structure... The latter is designed to hide the joints and screw heads. The first layer of putty should cover all irregularities: seams, hats, joints. After the first layer has dried, you can apply the finishing filler over the entire surface.

The dried surface is cleaned with a fine float. Then a primer is applied. At this stage, before applying paint, the holes for spot lighting are finally prepared: the holes are brought to the desired size, and the wiring is carried out.

The surface is now ready for painting.

Ceiling- a noticeable part of the room. High-quality expensive acrylic water-based paint will do. This paint will create a dense and even coating. The composition must be thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained without sediment and lumps. A drill mixer is suitable.

To apply paint, it is better to use a roller with a soft short nap or a velor roller and a wide flute brush - where it is not possible to paint over with a roller.

The paint is applied in at least two layers. The second staining is carried out one day after the first, when the paint is completely dry.
After painting, lighting fixtures are installed. The ceiling is ready.

Design of two-level plasterboard ceilings

A two-tiered plasterboard ceiling creates a huge scope for imagination for the designer. You can experiment with everything: shape and contours, color and lighting.

Shape and contours will help you create an unusual ceiling shape, highlight separate areas of the room or divide the room into zones: recreation, work, sleeping, etc.

Colors and combinations create the atmosphere of the room, complement the interior and emphasize its individual elements.

Deserve a separate word fixtures, their color, position and intensity add the finishing touch and make the design unique and perfect.

A fairly frequent and successful design technique is hiding curtains in the ceiling design. Creates the effect of curtains streaming from the ceiling.

The main thing to remember that the ceiling is a part and harmonious continuation of the overall interior of the room.

Photo gallery of two-level plasterboard ceilings

The photos presented in the gallery will help you find interesting ideas for decorating your home. Photos of types of ceilings, samples, sketches, drawings and diagrams that will help you when installing your two-level plasterboard ceiling.

The price of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

The main pricing factor- Job. If the installation is done independently, then the price of the ceiling is the cost of materials. You will also need at least one assistant - it is impossible to independently install a structure of this size.

When contacting a specialized organization, the following materials, works and services are paid for.

The cost of materials according to the company's price list... Many companies provide materials at regular prices because they buy them themselves at wholesale prices. You won't have to overpay for materials. The consultants of the company will definitely tell you about this, and all materials with prices will be transparently included in the price list.
Installation of the structure... Paid for each square meter, depending on the complexity of the work - 800-1000 rubles per 1 m².
Insulation: soundproofing, vapor barrier, waterproofing - 150-200 rubles per 1 m².
Painting works(putty, primer, painting) - 400-550 rubles per 1 m².
Material delivery- about 1000 rubles.
Electric installation work calculated by a specialist on the spot.

What can be said in the end about a two-level plasterboard ceiling.

The structure is a frame made of metal profiles and plasterboard sheets weighing about 10 kg per 1 m².
The design reduces the height of the room by about 10 cm.
Installation is a rather laborious process that can be performed on your own if you have the skills of installation and drywall work.
The main disadvantage of the coating is that final finishing is required. The least time-consuming finishing is wallpaper. Finishing for painting is very difficult - it is necessary to carefully putty all the seams and irregularities.
A two-level ceiling will help create a unique, complete and stylish interior of the room, create additional sound insulation, and is durable.

A plasterboard ceiling will reliably hide all the reliefs of slabs and communications, and will also change the appearance of the interior beyond recognition, delimiting it with the help of lighting into comfortable zones. In addition, by assembling a dream ceiling with your own hands, you can significantly reduce repair costs.

A two-level ceiling is a structure when a power frame is mounted on a concrete or wooden base; lay communications in it (electric, television cables); another surface is installed on the frame (gypsum board for painting); the ceiling and the new surface of the second tier are finished. Due to new superstructures, which are being erected along the perimeter or in separate parts (in the center, in the corners), the ceiling is lowered.

On the construction market, they offer 2 types of gypsum boards: wall -12 mm thick, and ceiling - 9 mm. For two levels of ceilings, thin ceiling gypsum boards are suitable - this will reduce the weight of the structure.

Diy two-level ceiling device (video instruction)

How to make

The process of installing the ceiling of their two tiers with your own hands consists of several stages, but, first of all, you need to prepare tools and materials:

impact puncher;
normal and laser levels;
tape measure, pencils;
hammer, tracer;
scissors for metal, knife;
square;
screwdriver;
planer for gypsum board, hacksaw.

And it is also necessary to purchase the required number (with a small margin) of self-tapping screws and gypsum board.

Installation of the frame and wiring

The first layer of gypsum board is fixed on the ceiling and the upper edge of the walls. The level marks the location of the frame. Then the optimal height between the ceiling levels is determined - on average, about 20 cm. If the ceiling is planned to be equipped with lighting, it is necessary to provide a place for replacing the lamps.

The old layer of plaster is usually left, if it is very weak and uneven, it will have to be replaced.

The supporting structure is a frame made of profiles made of galvanized steel. Its main components:

guide profile with a length of 2750 or 3000 mm;
ceiling profile with a length of 2750 or 3000 mm;
anchor with self-tapping screws 6/50;
straight hangers for profiles;
self-tapping screws for metal 4.2x16mm or 3.5x11mm.

Scissors for metal cut the profile into parts, focusing on the marking. Next, the profile is attached with dowels, for which they drill holes with a puncher, hammer the base with a hammer and tighten the dowel with a screwdriver.

Fixation of the structure is started from the end of the profile. Then they move on to installing the ceiling profile. It is cut into pieces 5 cm less than the planned ceiling height. In order for the profiles to be mounted evenly, it is better to bend their ends. Initially, 2 parts of the ceiling are fixed to the guide profile at each end.

On the upper guide profile, 2 pieces of the ceiling profile are fixed at the ends. Then measure the lower guide profile, checking the length with the upper one, unfold it with the back side, cut the grooves and screw it to the lower ends. Now you can make fastenings for the rest of the profile.

Next, they mark the places where the lamps will be, install profiles for fixing the gypsum board. The profiles are cut 5mm less than the frame width. After bending the ends, they are fixed inside at a sufficient distance, taking into account the position of the lamps.

After installing the profiles, mark the place for direct suspensions, they must hold the parts of the profiles. Suspensions are designed for 40 kg of weight, these parameters determine their number, but they must be placed no further than 100 cm from one another.

After fixing the hangers, the installation of the profiles is completed, fixing them to the guide profile with screws 4 x 16 mm. We fix the suspensions to the profiles with the same fasteners. A solid and smooth construction is ready.

If the project provides for the installation of additional lighting, the entire wiring system is placed in the frame (so far without lamps). The cable is led out to sockets or a junction box, where lighting devices will be connected in the future.

GKL adjustment, installation of boards and putty

The sheets are cut into pieces of the required size, if you need a board for lighting, you need to make a margin of 8-12 cm. You can form the sides with pieces of drywall up to the middle of the ceiling profile. Their ends are sanded and prepared for puttying - they are chamfered at an angle of 22 ° by 2/3 along the thickness of the gypsum board. Sections are fixed with self-tapping screws to the profile with a step of 15 cm.

The joints between drywall and the places where the screws are screwed in must be primed and putty in two passes. After drying, the joints are sanded with a grinding bar until they are completely aligned with the gypsum board surface. Then the joint is sealed with a special tape, it must be moistened in a primer, smoothed and glued to the seam. Once again treated with putty, dried, sanded, primed and putty again. For a high-quality result, it is impossible to speed up the procedure, you must wait until each layer of the primer of two tiers is completely dry.

Before installing the gypsum board, mark the places for self-tapping screws and holes for illumination. They are drilled with a hole saw attachment both before and after mounting the sheet. But before that, you need to make a board for illumination from scraps of gypsum board. The height of the outer side is twice lower than the inner side. Before installation, the ends of the segments are sanded. For installation, screws 3.5x11 mm and a guide profile are required.

It is cut to the length of the sheet and pieces of gypsum board are fixed on it, after which the entire structure is fixed with screws on the inside of the sheet. It is better to start the installation of gypsum board with self-tapping screws from the corners.

The joints between the drywall are filled with putty, the tape is laid and putty in two layers similar to the previous version.

At the final stage, the ceiling plinth is installed, the surface is painted and the lamps are mounted.

Perimeter illuminated ceiling

To mount the backlight, use a level around the perimeter to set the zero point.

The device of this design looks like this: a guide profile is fixed along the marking line. With the help of suspensions, a rack-mount profile is mounted. Reinforce the structure with fastening "crabs" and longitudinal profiles. For maximum amplification, you can also duplicate with suspensions.

Before fixing the gypsum board, a wiring for the backlight is laid over the frame. Then they are fixed on the gypsum board frame with self-tapping screws. The screw heads must be completely recessed. After installation, the gaps and holes from the caps are putty and sanded. Diode lighting is easy to install: make markings, drill holes. Sometimes holes for fixtures are cut out after installing the gypsum board. This must be done carefully so as not to damage the wiring.

A certain difficulty arises with the parallel arrangement of the ceiling and the two planes being erected. Sheathing the frame of the gypsum board, it is controlled by the water level. When erecting 2 tiers, where the backlight is mounted, discrepancies are possible.

In construction jargon, this is called "the ceiling is overwhelmed." One way to level the levels with your own hands is to create a primary plasterboard base.

Mounting the backlight in two levels from the gypsum board has one more feature. The cable must be put in a special sleeve or cable channel. It is strictly forbidden to place wiring along the profile or on top of it. The wiring is hidden in junction boxes. When choosing the type of cable, the total load is taken into account. The switches are located at a height of 100mm from the floor, it is important that it disconnects the phase, and not zero. This will come in handy when replacing LEDs or lamps. To prevent the cable from chafing on sharp edges during operation, its sleeve must be sealed. If you do not follow the safety regulations, there is a danger of short circuits when humidifying two levels. The ingress of moisture is possible not only in the kitchen or in the bathroom, but also in emergency situations - flooding by neighbors.

Gallery: two-level plasterboard ceilings (20 photos)

Already no one is surprised by the presence of a false ceiling in the room. It can hide wires from lighting. Next, we will show you how to make a suspended two-level ceiling with your own hands.

Benefits of a false ceiling

One of its advantages is that in order to make it, you do not need to remove old plaster from the bottom surface of the floor. It is enough to remove fragile fragments that will interfere with the reliable fastening of the frame, the rest will be hidden. By the way, the suspended two-level ceiling will hide the electrical cables and ventilation ducts, which are convenient to run just under the ceiling.

Attention! In a ceiling space, do not place gas pipes. The installation of a suspended ceiling also offers advantages in improving heat and sound insulation. Mineral wool insulation can be made between the frame elements. It suppresses noise penetrating the two-level ceiling and reduces the amount of heat escaping from the room.

Installation of a suspended two-level plasterboard ceiling

Do-it-yourself installation of a rectangular suspended ceiling is not difficult. A more difficult task is to make a recess in the shape of a circle. In our case, part of the two-level ceiling will be located above the kitchen area, where it will be exposed to steam, so we chose green slabs with increased resistance to moisture.

Step-by-step instruction

1. First, you need to draw lines to mark the low level of the support structure.

3. Determine the inner and outer contour of the intended circle.

4. The walls of the guide, which is to be installed inside the circle, must be cut so that it can bend.

After attaching the guide to the floor surface with dowels, the wheel base is formed.

5. Measure the suspension height from the UD wall profiles.

6. Cut strips of the required width from the plasterboard board, and then wet them with water and bend.

Attach the strips with screws to the profile. At this stage of work, you need to bring wires to connect the fluorescent lamps.

7. Attach the perforated profile to the bottom edge of the plasterboard strip.

8. Further along the perimeter we install CD profiles for the lower part of the two-level ceiling. To do this, we fix the supporting CD profile, laid on top of the UD wall profile after 1 meter. Then, every 50 cm (for a sheet with a length of 2500 cm), we install a CD profile, which is inserted into the UD profile perpendicular to the bearing CD profile.

9. In places where it is necessary to lengthen the profiles, we use longitudinal connectors.

10. After exposing the frame, we connect the CD profiles to each other using two-level crabs. Then we attach suspensions to the ceiling using 6 mm wedge anchor.

11. The gypsum boards are screwed in parallel to the supporting profiles - this design provides higher rigidity.

12. The inner circle of the second level is made a little smaller in diameter in order to place fluorescent lamps in it. To do this, drywall sheets are screwed in with a margin, so that it is easier to draw the outline of the circle, you should temporarily attach a profile in the center and draw a line using a rope or another profile.

13. Irregularities at the edges that have arisen after cutting out the circle (with a drywall file) must be sanded with a drywall plane.

14. To prevent the lamps from being visible, we make a plasterboard cover along the edge of the hole. To attach the cover, you must attach another perforated profile inside the circle.

15. After sanding the edges of the slabs, install a special perforated radius plastic corner, which is fixed with a stapler or thick putty.

16. The edges of the slabs, where there are no special seams, must be cut so that the putty can fill them and do not create protrusions on the surface of the two-level ceiling. Slotted areas must be primed to improve adhesion of the filler.

17. Apply the prepared special filler compound for sealing joints along all joints and in places where there are screws.

18. To prevent the joints of the slabs from bursting, we deepen a reinforcing (serpyanka) fiberglass mesh in the putty mass.

19. We also apply the joint compound around the hole where the plastic corner is installed. Once dry, it may be necessary to apply another layer of putty, as the previous layer may be sucked in or not flat.

20. The next day, when the putty is dry, the entire ceiling is sanded.

21. After preliminary painting of the ceiling, we place fluorescent lamps inside the circle and connect them to the prepared wires.

22. There will be a table under the circle, so you can still install a regular hanging lamp in the middle of the cavity. The illumination from the inside of the circle is an original decoration of the interior.

A two-level plasterboard ceiling system allows you to bring to life the most daring design solutions, create a cozy atmosphere and visually divide the room into zones. In addition, such a system also makes practical sense: a suspended ceiling can hide large differences in height, ceiling beams, pipes and electrical wiring.

It is quite possible to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands, the main thing is to understand the methods of fastening guides and sheets of GK, calculate the consumption of materials and follow the technology.

Required materials and tools

In addition to drywall sheets, you will need:

Profile guide UD for fastening around the perimeter of the room;
Ceiling profile CD - the basis of the frame for fixing sheets of GK;
Crab connectors for fastening cross rails;
Suspensions: when installing the ceiling less than 12 cm from the base surface - ordinary straight, with a large difference in height - spring;
Extensions for the profile, if the width of the room is greater than its standard length;
Metal dowel-wedges;
Quick fastening system "dowel-nail" 6x40 or 6x60;
Self-tapping screws for gypsum board 25-35 mm;
If the purpose of installing a false ceiling is soundproofing, then soundproofing materials are also needed;
Finishing materials: primer, putty, painting net, finishing of your choice.

From the tool you will need:

Rotary hammer with a drill Ø6;
Screwdriver;
Level, laser and bubble;
Painting thread - it is beaten off on the walls and ceiling of the lines for attaching guides and hangers;
Scissors for metal and a grinder with a cutting wheel for metal;
Roulette, hammer, strong stationery knife for cutting plasterboard;
Spatulas, brushes, rollers and other painting tools for finishing work;
Stepladder or comfortable platform.

Preparatory work

First, you need to decide what will be the upper level: an existing ceiling or a plasterboard ceiling. The first case allows you to significantly save money, time and effort, but its implementation is possible only with flat ceilings with small differences in height. There are several systems for performing ceiling levels:

The first level is the standard ceiling, plastered and painted. The second level is drywall. The joint is continuous, recessed lights are installed in the second level of the ceiling.
Ceiling with hidden lighting. The first level is the base ceiling with matching finishes, the second is plasterboard with recessed lights. In addition, hidden lighting is installed in the second level stem. This design gives a soft diffused light and creates a unique cosiness.
Both levels are made of drywall, lighting is built-in halogen lamps.
In general, the design is similar to the second option, but the upper level of the ceiling is also made of plasterboard.
Next, you need to draw a plan for the layout of the sheets, decide where the second level will be located, how the lighting equipment will be located. When completing the drawing, it is necessary to take into account the standard dimensions of the gypsum board - it will be much faster and more convenient to mount the ceiling if it consists of large sheets.
Technology for making a two-level plasterboard ceiling
1. The surface of the ceiling is prepared: peeling coatings are cleaned, large cracks are putty. Cables are laid in a metal hose or corrugated pipe for connecting lighting elements. Using a laser level and a painter's thread, mark the level of fastening of the upper tier of the ceiling along the entire perimeter of the room, while taking into account the thickness of the GK sheet.
2. The UD-profile is fastened along the marked line using the "dowel-nail" quick fastening system. This is done like this: they apply the profile to the wall, drill a hole with a puncher and hammer in the dowel-nail with a hammer. It is more convenient to fasten the guides together. The starting guides are checked by level, if necessary, leveled.
3. Attach the ceiling rails. Cut with scissors for metal or a grinder CD-profile along the width of the room, lead it into opposite starting guides. To eliminate the sagging of the profiles, direct suspensions are attached to the ceiling - a perforated metal tape. They are fastened with metal dowels-wedges. The distance between the ceiling guides is 40 cm, between the hangers - from 60 cm. The guides are leveled using a level and fixed to the hangers with self-tapping screws for metal. The ends of the suspensions are bent or cut off. If it is necessary to install soundproofing, it can be fixed with the ends of the suspensions.
  The next step is to attach the ceiling rails.
4. Along the line of the beginning of the second level, it is necessary to additionally strengthen the transverse guides using crab connectors.
5. Plasterboard sheets are fixed to the upper level of the ceiling using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. A sheet of drywall weighs about 20 kg, so you need to do this work together or three, using stable ladders or scaffolds. Where the second level of the false ceiling will pass, it is not necessary to fasten drywall, it is enough that it goes under the lower level by 10-15 cm.If you plan to install lamps in the upper level, you must immediately make holes for them and stretch cables to them - then it will be inconvenient to do it.
6. Mark the border of the lower level with a pencil on drywall. The lower level of the ceiling is fixed in the same way. Usually it is located around the perimeter of the room or on one side of it. In this case, the guides are attached to the wall at the required distance, as well as along the line of the height difference to the first level of the ceiling. To make a wave, the profile must be cut along the lateral and underside with metal scissors and bent along the waveform.
7. For fastening the guides of the lower level, spring hangers are used: they are attached to long rods and are fixed with a pressure spring at the desired height. The hangers are fixed so that the guides are perpendicular to the edge of the second level. The fixing step should not be more than 90 cm, while the last suspension should be located 10 cm from the edge of the lower ceiling level.
8. The guides are fixed on the hangers. They are cut so that they follow the shape of the lower level as much as possible. A profile is attached to the guides, forming an angle of the vertical plane. If the second level is made in the form of a wave, the profile is cut with scissors along the lateral and lower sides and give it the desired shape. Be sure to install vertical guides between the first and second ceiling levels.
9. Plasterboard sheets are marked out, cut out in the required shape with a knife or jigsaw and attached to the prepared guides. The side wall of the second level is attached to the vertical guides. If the level difference is wavy and has a rather steep radius, it is more convenient to perform it from small segments. Immediately lead out the cables for connecting the lamps.
10. After fixing the ceiling, you can start finishing it: the ceiling is primed, the joints and corners are glued with a painting net, putty and the joints are leveled. As a decorative finish, you can use ceiling paint, wallpaper and any other finishing materials suitable for finishing drywall.
A two-level plasterboard ceiling looks beautiful and modern, and when done by hand, it can significantly save money on repairs. Remember that they are afraid of moisture, therefore, moisture-resistant drywall should be used in the kitchen and bathroom.

Finishing of a two-level plasterboard ceiling. Creation of a curved two-level structure from drywall. Preparation of the room and concrete base

A little about drywall

How does drywall work?

Types of drywall

Profiles and fasteners for plasterboard systems

Fasteners for plasterboard systems

Elements for fastening frames to load-bearing bases

Elements for fastening the gypsum board to the frame

Video: Self-tapping screws for drywall and profile

Tool for working with plasterboard systems

Video: Drywall Tool

Safety precautions and protective equipment when working with drywall

Methods for mounting metal frame profiles

Fastening guide profiles to supporting building structures

Fastening guides and support profiles

Fastening with self-tapping screws

Fastening with a cutter

Fastening bearing profiles to building structures

Fastening with a direct suspension

Fastening with anchor suspension

Alternative ways of attaching the bearing profiles

Connection of bearing profiles to each other

Elongation of PP profiles 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27

Application of profile extensions PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27

Alternative ways of lengthening profiles PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27

Video: Extend Profiles

Connection of profiles PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27 angled in one level

Connection with the "Crab"

Video: Connecting profiles "Crab"

Alternative ways of connecting profiles

Arrangement of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Defining the ceiling design

At what stage of repair or construction is a two-level ceiling made?

Preparatory work

Measurement of the premises, drawing up a plan

Determination of the level of the ceiling, revision of its surface

Choosing a scheme for the implementation of a two-level ceiling

First level - plastered ceiling

Option 1: Without lighting eaves

Option 2: With a cornice for lighting

First level - plasterboard ceiling

Option 3: Fixing the second level of the ceiling to the first

Option 4: Fastening the first level of the plasterboard ceiling to the second

Drafting a plasterboard ceiling

Ceiling markings

Installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Example 1: Plasterboard box in the kitchen

Example 2: Installation of a two-level backlit ceiling

Video: Secrets of craftsmanship when working with drywall and profile

Video: Example of installing a two-level ceiling

Video: Duplex plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen

Video: Installation of a multi-level ceiling, part 1

Conclusion

What is the structure of a two-level plasterboard ceiling?

How is a two-level ceiling mounted?

Installation of two-level plasterboard ceilings. Video

Fastening drywall

Painting a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Design of two-level plasterboard ceilings

Photo gallery of two-level plasterboard ceilings

The price of a two-level plasterboard ceiling

Diy two-level ceiling device (video instruction)

How to make

Installation of the frame and wiring

GKL adjustment, installation of boards and putty

Perimeter illuminated ceiling

Gallery: two-level plasterboard ceilings (20 photos)

Benefits of a false ceiling

Installation of a suspended two-level plasterboard ceiling

Step-by-step instruction

Required materials and tools

Preparatory work

Technology for making a two-level plasterboard ceiling

**Elongation of PP profiles 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27**

**Application of profile extensions PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27**

**Alternative ways of lengthening profiles PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27**

**Connection of profiles PP 60 * 27 /CD 60 * 27 angled in one level**