Wall decoration with drywall: what you should know about. Wall cladding with plasterboard: we do sequentially Wall cladding with a frame device

"Dry" plasterboard wall cladding is as ubiquitous as wallpapering. Indeed, with such a pace of execution and quality of alignment, the assembly of the supporting base cannot but have difficulties. And they are, so today we will reveal the secrets of assembling wall profile frames.

Consideration of the work of the wall frame

Before proceeding with the set of a substructure for wall cladding, you should make sure that the functions of the profile frame are complete and correct. It is assembled from profiles of the PN and PS types of different standard sizes. For false walls without a high operational load with one sheathing layer, a 60 mm kit is used, consisting of CD-60 and UD-27 profiles as rack and guide elements, respectively. Such a wall is self-supporting, but nothing more: no attachments like cabinets, shelves or a TV should be attached directly to the frame or sheets.

False walls with internal insulation, two- and three-layer sheathing with sheets and an additional load-bearing function are assembled on a frame from the same profile sizes that are used in the construction of plasterboard partitions. These are sets of PS + PN 50 and 100 mm. To summarize: the width of the profile used determines the mass of the wall and cladding in particular, sets the required bearing capacity.

Another important parameter of the wall frame is its frequency, expressed by the pitch of the rack elements. The more often they are installed, the more stiffness the wall acquires and the higher its resistance to pressure and impact. For single-ply sheathing, a 40 cm pitch is used due to the fact that one sheet can be pressed relatively easily. The two-layer sheathing is denser, so the spacing of the posts can be increased to 60 cm.

It is not entirely clear why to reduce the number of points of attachment of a two-layer skin, because it has a greater weight in comparison with a single-layer one, which means that it needs a greater bearing capacity of the frame. However, the strength of profiles of the 50th standard size and larger (and others are not used in multilayer cladding) is quite enough to hold up to four layers of drywall.

If you do not understand the meaning of cladding with several layers of gypsum board, most likely you do not know about the ratio of the characteristics of the walls. An additional layer doubles the insulation from structural and airborne noise, allows you to lay up to 50 mm of additional insulation and significantly reduces the thermal conductivity of the cladding itself. The combination of these factors makes multilayer cladding a very popular solution, which has been adopted by almost all conscientious contractors.

Installation of guide profiles

The assembly of the frame of any wall begins with the definition of its main plane. If the wall has niches, the one with the largest area is taken as the main plane. This plane is easily projected onto the floor and ceiling with two base lines, from which all further readings will be conducted. When these lines are defined and marked out, they should be checked for mutual correspondence with the overall geometry of the room and make the necessary changes if necessary. For convenience, you can also make adjustments for the thickness of the sheathing layer and the preferred finishing material, so that the markings accurately indicate the line of installation of the guide profiles.

They, as the name suggests, determine the direction of the rack elements. For fastening the guide profiles to concrete bases, quick-assembly plastic dowels with a pitch of 35-40 mm or direct-mounted steel dowel-nails are used. Fastening to wooden structures, shell rock or foam concrete is carried out with hardened self-tapping screws 50-120 mm long, depending on the density of the material. The fastening step can also be reduced to increase the rigidity of the fastening.

To compensate for structure-borne noise, thermal expansion and shifts during building settlement, a layer of damper material is placed between the guide profile and the bearing surface. Special self-adhesive tapes made of medium density polyethylene foam can be relatively easily replaced with self-cut strips of insulation made of the same material and glued onto regular PVA.

Structural insulation from the floor is done in one layer, and from the ceiling in two or three. In total, there should be approximately one layer for every meter of wall height. In this case, the fastening of the ceiling profile is not rigidly performed so that the frame guide can "walk" in height in the range of 2-3 mm.

Walking around openings and corners

The plane of the frame can be disturbed by niches, window and doorways. In these places, the linear configuration of the guides is changed to correctly traverse the junctions.

In doorways, the guide profile rises to form a rectangular opening in the skin. Its dimensions either exactly match the installation dimensions of the door block, or determine the dawn of the slopes.

Window openings can be bypassed in two ways. The opening "to the floor" is made in the same way as the doorway, however, it is preferable to install window sills in parallel with the assembly of the frame. This is done to break the vertical guides. Thus, the lower part of the niche is made with strictly rectangular edges, and the upper one has the necessary dawn for mounting slopes (2-3 °).

Simple closed niches are more convenient to assemble after mounting the main plane of the frame. Usually, the rack elements are simply skipped at their locations, however, if the niche extends to the floor, on it the guide profile must be broken and displaced to the wall to the depth of the niche. In this case, additional external and internal corners can be formed, at which the profiles are tightly adjacent to each other with the formation of a common gap (the edges are cut at 45 °). The reason for this is as follows: it is impossible to know in advance exactly how the frame of the embossed wall will be implemented, which means that the rack elements must be able to be installed in all possible positions.

Assembling the supporting structure of the wall

Post profiles are inserted into the cavity of the guide profiles, the length of which is 15 mm less than the distance between the inner shelves of the guide system at each specific installation location. Such a gap is necessary for easier insertion of the rack into the rails at an angle and to compensate for linear deformations.

It is important to adhere to a specific installation sequence for maximum performance. First, all rack profiles are installed without any fastening. Next, direct suspensions are fixed to the wall with a step recommended for the wall type (30-60 cm), the attachment points are outlined, the profile is shifted to the side and the wall is conveniently drilled with a perforator.

The uprights return to their previous position according to the precautions that have been carefully marked on the guide profile. The profile is fastened with two notches or self-tapping screws in the lower part, but from above it must remain fully mobile. So that the racks exactly correspond to the step of installing the sheets and do not tilt, jumpers are pre-installed for joining the vertical elements of one row. If the CD-60 kit is used in the frame, the jumpers are cut in lengths of 340 mm, inserted between the posts and attached to them with halves of a regular crab. In this case, it is enough to install the first, basic rack vertically, the rest need only cursory control.

If the frame is dialed in 50 or 100 mm with a standard size, the lintels are made with a guide profile. Its edges are cut along the outer shelves and folded in different directions. The workpiece is inserted with one bent edge into the cavity of the rack, the other edge is superimposed on the adjacent rack. If the sheathing posts are oriented with the central shelf towards the sheathing, which is found in non-insulated walls, the edges of the lintels must be bent in one direction so that the side edges are flat. The lintel is simply inserted between the shelves and is secured to them along the adjacent flat surfaces.

Please note that it is categorically not recommended to cut the jumpers with "tongues": the caps of the self-tapping screws are normally pressed into the drywall, but the plate, especially from the central shelf of the rack-mount profile, will certainly form a bump on the surface of the sheathing.

A number of simple rules apply to bypassing vertical corners:

Outside corners with a standard size of 50 mm and above are assembled from two guide profiles nested towards each other.
The same corners from CD-60 are formed sequentially: first one side is sheathed, then a profile is attached to the sheet outlet and the adjacent sheet is sewn.
All internal corners are also assembled sequentially: first, the wall is sewn up, then a second corner insert is inserted and fastened, and the adjacent wall is sewn up.

Additional fastening of the frame and completion of the assembly

At the end of the installation, a thorough alignment of the plane of the rack profiles is required. Often for this, an additional rail (or a pair of such) is used, with which the racks are twisted together to bring them into a common plane. The rail is telescopic and consists of two guide profiles nested into each other.

After the temporary connection, the edges of the straight suspensions are bent, attached to the posts and bent back, after which the additional slats are removed. Sections of the frame adjacent to niches and openings also need strengthening. In these places, at intervals of half a meter, horizontal crossbars are added to prevent punching of areas potentially subject to destruction.

Drywall firmly occupies the position of one of the most demanded among building and finishing materials, and this is easily explained by its many advantages. These include its environmental friendliness, ease of installation, the ability to use in a variety of rooms, a relatively small weight and affordable cost.

Plasterboard sheets are used for leveling walls and for, moreover, working with them is available not only to an experienced builder, but also to a novice master. Wall decoration with plasterboard without a frame and profile is possible with different adhesives and on surfaces built of different materials. The advantages of such an attachment in comparison with the frame method are that the decrease in the area of the room is not so noticeable, a decent amount is saved on the elements of the crate, and the installation work itself is quite fast and can be done on our own.

The main methods of mounting drywall on a wall surface

To appreciate the advantage of frameless drywall installation, you can still briefly consider both existing methods by comparing them.

In fairness, it should be noted that sometimes it is impossible to do without installing a frame when installing drywall, so this case is also worth mentioning when considering the methods of installing the material.

So, there are two main technologies for fixing drywall sheets to the wall in order to align it:

Installation of sheets using self-tapping screws on a frame made of a metal profile or a wooden bar. This method is chosen in cases where the wall requires additional thermal or sound insulation, and the insulation material is installed in the frame structure, or if the wall has very large distortions that are difficult to align with plaster layers.
Fixing sheets to the wall using self-tapping screws and mounting foam or on an adhesive made on a gypsum base. Self-tapping screws and foam for fixing drywall are used if it is necessary to sheathe not only a wooden wall, but also surfaces derived from other materials that require correction. Adhesive gypsum is more often used to level a concrete or brick wall. However, it should be noted right away that the frameless method of fastening drywall should be used only when the walls have a height not exceeding 3000 mm.

In this publication, the nuances of only frameless drywall fixing will be considered.

Required materials and tools

Set of tools

To level the walls with drywall using one of the adhesives, you will need much fewer tools than if the frame was fixed to the wall. The list of everything you need consists of the following items:

A plumb line, a building level and, as a rule, preferably 1500 mm long - to control the evenness of the original wall and the created vertical plane.
An electric jigsaw or a sharp utility knife - for cutting drywall.
Rulers of different lengths, a square, a tape measure and a simple pencil - for marking.
A wide, medium and narrow trowel, and possibly a trowel (trowel) - for applying and distributing the mortar.
Construction trowel - for processing the putty surface.
Roller and brush - for treating walls with a primer.
Rubber mallet - for adjusting drywall sheets glued to the wall.
Electric drill and mixer attachment - for mixing the solution.
In some cases, it will be required - for additional fixing with self-tapping screws.

Drywall prices

drywall

Necessary materials

Now it is necessary to consider the materials that will be required for the preparation of the wall surface and for the high-quality installation of drywall:

Priming solution with antiseptic additives.
Plaster-based putty mixture, base and finishing.
Dry building mixture - drywall glue, or polyurethane foam.
Serpyanka mesh tape - for sealing joints between sheets.
Long self-tapping screws may be required to level the wall by adjusting the drywall sheets. The size of the fasteners will depend on the evenness of the surface, taking into account the fact that they must be recessed into the wall by 50 ÷ 60 mm.
For one of the alignment technologies, pieces of foam rubber will be required - this will be discussed in due course.

Some materials are described in more detail.

Drywall

The Knauf company produces not only a variety of building and finishing mixtures, but also gypsum plasterboards for various purposes - this is a simple, moisture-resistant, fire-resistant and moisture-resistant finishing material:

Ordinary drywall (gypsum plasterboard or, according to Knauf's proprietary classification - GSP-A) is used for rooms with normal humidity.
Moisture resistant sheets (GKLV or GSP-H2) can be used to level the walls in bathrooms or bathrooms. After processing such a surface, ceramic tiles will perfectly fit on it.
Fire-resistant sheets (GKLO or GSP-DF) are used to decorate walls around a fireplace, stoves, chimneys.
Fire and moisture resistant drywall (GKLVO or GSP-DFH2) is well suited for wall decoration in boiler rooms of private houses, in attic and attic rooms.

Here you can also briefly say about, which does not require much effort, experience and special tools - it is enough to have an ordinary sharp clerical knife at hand. The cutting process takes place in the following order:

The sheet is laid on a solid base - it can be a large table, a floor, or several stools, set side by side at some distance from each other.
Then, using a tape measure or a ruler, the sheet is marked out, the necessary lines are drawn with a simple pencil.
The next step along the drawn line, also along the ruler, is carried out with a knife, which should cut the top layer of cardboard.
The sheet is pushed to the edge of the hard surface and laid on it along the notch line.
Then, on the edge of the drywall, which goes beyond the base, a pressure is made, which will provoke a break in the sheet along the cut line.
The last step is to cut the cardboard on the other side of the sheet.

Starting any repair and finishing work in an apartment or house, you need to choose in advance what material will be used. Many people choose plasterboard wall cladding - a fairly simple procedure that you can do yourself. But, if you want to create some kind of decorative element, composition, you will have to try hard. Only then will it turn out exactly what was intended. Therefore, working with gypsum boards is not always as easy as it might seem.

Features and benefits of plasterboard wall decoration

Drywall is considered a versatile material, it can be mounted on almost any type of surface - brick, concrete, block, wood. For correct installation, various options are used:

erection of a metal and wooden frame;
fixing gypsum boards directly to the wall.

Installation of drywall sheets without lathing

Unlike other materials, plasterboard cladding on various surfaces can have many advantages:

Working with dry plaster (another name for drywall) allows you to finish the walls quickly enough. And also there is no need to use various solutions that require certain conditions.
The erected structure made of gypsum plasterboard fits into any design ideas. Do not think that with the help of this material only flat areas are created - you can successfully make various curvilinear and decorative elements.
Drywall has excellent technical characteristics. But it is very afraid of high humidity, so it is better to use it in combination with waterproofing materials.
It is very convenient that the entire structure can be dismantled very quickly. At the same time, the use of a metal frame gives very good rigidity and does not deteriorate over time.
It is possible to lay communications without creating various channels. This rule applies to the wireframe method.
The surface of the gypsum board lends itself to processing with almost all topcoats. It is also very convenient that different types of finishes can be combined with each other.

Aligning walls with gypsum plasterboard is especially important when internal insulation of the house is used

When creating decorative elements using drywall, it must be borne in mind that it will be necessary to create additional sections of the frame, which must be correctly calculated in advance.

Preparing for wall cladding

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall cladding begins with preliminary preparation. Often this process takes much longer than the actual work takes place. It is better to take care of the miscalculation of the necessary costs, material and drawing up a detailed plan (scheme) of work in advance.

First of all, you should measure the room. This must be done with special care, any errors will lead to problems during the installation process.

Measurement of the room is an important stage in the preparatory work.

On a note! There are various options for drywall sheets on the market, so you can choose the material even for non-standard objects.

They also pay attention to the thickness of the slab, it can be from 6 to 12.5 mm. Width starts from 60 cm to 120 cm.

When choosing, you can focus on the color of the sheet, it gives an idea of its characteristics:

the most common option is for simple rooms, its color is gray;
for wet rooms - moisture resistant drywall, green in color;
fire resistant sheets are red.

The green color of drywall "speaks" of its moisture resistant properties

They are immediately determined with the method of fixing the plate, the choice of additional materials will depend on this. If a frameless method is used, then it is necessary to choose the right glue and its amount. When creating the lathing, the number of metal profiles and fittings is calculated. Do not forget about the need to prepare the required tool.

What to consider when installing gypsum board

So, it has already been noted that a lot depends on the installation method that will be chosen in advance. Consider the following:

For rooms with a large area, the frame method is suitable. But it must be remembered that the erected lathing takes up part of the area.
Accordingly, it is better to sheathe small rooms by gluing gypsum boards. This is the only way to maintain the size of the object. If you use a frame, then the room will become noticeably cramped and more uncomfortable.
The use of a metal profile requires compliance with some rules. Among the main ones is strict adherence to the installation of level guides.

Plasterboard wall cladding using lathing

The application of this method does not require specific skills. All the work is quite simple, but it requires care. You should not rush, it is better to do everything in a measured way, as a result, getting a high-quality design that will delight the eye.

On a note! The technology of plasterboard wall cladding itself has some difficulty in terms of creating the lathing. The procedure for facing with gypsum boards is not the main stage of such an event.

The work on creating the lathing is as follows:

All unnecessary things are removed from the walls. You should get a clean surface.
Make a markup. The locations of the vertical racks are immediately plotted (step 55-60 cm). This makes it possible to pre-drill for the dowel.
Install the guide profile. This is done around the perimeter of the wall of the room. It is in it that the installation of vertical elements begins. They are attached using U-shaped brackets.
Fix the horizontal ties.

Photo of the installation process of the frame:

Each stage of work is carried out using a level. Only after achieving perfect evenness - each element is fixed.

Plasterboard installation

Plasterboard wall cladding is done according to the following principle:

The required sheet size is measured. The excess is removed with a construction knife.
The edges of the sheets that will be located next to them are trimmed. Do this at a slight angle.
The very installation of the gypsum board is to screw it to the profile. Observe a step of 20-25 cm.
Take into account that you need to make a gap between the floor and the ceiling, it must be at least 5 mm.
Now all that remains is to close up the joints between the sheets and proceed with further finishing.

A few tips:

Self-tapping screws are literally flush with the surface. Do not tighten or not tighten them strongly.
A gap of 3-5 mm is made between the sheets.
If you plan to fix heavy elements, then mortgages are made. They must be securely attached to the wall.

Thus, a drywall room is obtained that will serve for many years. In principle, if you follow the rules for further finishing, then even when replacing the decorative layer, you will not need to change the plasterboard wall cladding.

Sheathing with glue

Installation of drywall on glue is best done when there is at least a little experience in carrying out such work. The fact is that it will be almost impossible to correct the defect with such work.

They are governed by the following rules:

It becomes extremely clear how to sheathe the walls of a room with gypsum boards. This procedure allows you to quickly and, most importantly, reliably create a surface that will serve for any further finishing.

Some features

Regardless of which option is chosen, there are certain features that should be observed in any case.

Before starting the wall cladding with drywall, they make a preliminary marking of the slabs. What is it? Imagine that you want to install various lighting fixtures on a surface, but how to do it? After all, after installing the gypsum board, you will have to spend extra time looking for a place where the electrical wiring runs. Therefore, they do everything in advance.
Direct cut holes for built-in lights can be set aside. But then the possibility of hitting a metal (wooden) profile is taken into account.
The cladding around window openings requires the utmost care. Radiators are often located under the windowsill. This means that they immediately calculate the location of the removable screens. For this, additional mortgages and false panels are made.
It is better not to risk it and take care of the preliminary surface finishing, which will be under the drywall. What it includes is the application of compounds that will protect against the effects of various fungi and mold. They also make heat and waterproofing.
A timber frame is best used in houses that are made of the same material.

Undoubtedly, wall cladding with drywall will allow you to create a surface that will allow you to show all your imagination for further decoration.

Plasterboard wall cladding involves fastening plasterboard sheets to the main walls. Due to the excellent insulating qualities of the material, plasterboard wall cladding has become quite widespread and well-deserved popularity. In practice, plasterboard wall decoration is used in a wide variety of premises, both in apartments and in office premises. This is due to the fact that plasterboard wall decoration has many advantages over any other finish. You will learn about the advantages of plasterboard wall cladding in this article. In addition, you will learn how to sheathe walls with drywall with your own hands.

What is this article about

Advantages of drywall

As mentioned earlier, plasterboard sheathing has many advantages. Among them are the following.

Plasterboard sheathing is available to everyone. Plasterboard sheets are quite common and have an affordable price, due to which it is relatively inexpensive to sheathe walls with drywall.
Plasterboard wall cladding will allow you to get a perfectly flat wall. If you decide to sheathe the walls with plasterboard, then you can be sure that there will be no problems with the decorative finish. In addition, you do not have to fool around with how to level the drywall.
Plasterboard wall cladding is completely environmentally friendly. Many, before sheathing the walls with plasterboard, wonder if the material will harm people in the apartment? The fears are in vain. Sheathe walls with gypsum plasterboard is a completely environmentally friendly solution.
Decorating the room with plasterboard will save your apartment from some troubles. It is worth talking about this in a little more detail before sheathe the wall with gypsum plasterboard. Decorating ceilings and walls with plasterboard does not always imply cladding with ordinary gray plasterboard sheets. There are two special types of drywall sheets. First, there are moisture resistant green gypsum plasterboards. They are excellent at resisting humid air and are ideal for installation in a bathroom, toilet or other wet environment. Secondly, fireproof pink drywall sheets. These sheets are a refractory material that is suitable for installation in rooms that are too warm, where there is an increased level of fire hazard.
Plasterboard wall decoration is a fairly easy process. Even a beginner who does not have any professional skills will be able to figure out how to sheathe walls with drywall. Sheathing the walls with drywall with your own hands, you definitely will not encounter any insurmountable obstacles. Moreover, drywall is a very flexible material in terms of processing. For example, you can easily make a frame in front of the window in the cladding.
As mentioned in the paragraph above, plastering the walls with drywall with your own hands will not put you in a difficult position. the same applies to the operation of plasterboard walls.
You can repair drywall walls at any time. The advantage of such a repair is that only the damaged area will have to be repaired, and not completely changed the entire skin.

It is worth mentioning that in addition to the usual gypsum boards, there are also GVL sheets. They are created from the same material, but differ somewhat in their structure. For wall cladding, both options are suitable.

The choice of sheathing method

Before proceeding with wall sheathing, you need to decide on the method of internal installation. It is very important to make a flat wall. There are two ways to decorate a wall plasterboard sheets: revet the sheets directly on the wall, with a direct abutment, or build a special metal frame, and already process it plasterboard sheets. The step-by-step instructions and installation diagram you need depend on the choice of installation method. A lot depends on what material the main walls in the house are made of. They are brick, reinforced concrete or, if the repair is carried out in a country house, wooden.

On each of these materials, gypsum plasterboards can be planted either directly or together with a metal frame. What determines our choice? The size of the error in the evenness of the wall is the defining indicator. The fact is that the main task of plasterboard sheathing is to level the wall, and if there is a large error at the main wall, and put drywall sheets on it without a frame, the error will remain uncorrected. If the wall defect is less than twenty millimeters, then you can safely cover the wall with putty, and put plasterboard sheets on it. If the error is more than twenty millimeters, then there are no options. Will come to install the frame.

However, it often happens that the master wants to install the frame on the wall with a slight error or plant drywall sheets straight on an uneven surface. Why does this happen? You can understand this if you look at all the advantages and disadvantages of both installation methods.

The frame gives the plasterboard sheathing additional strength and reliability. In addition, various communications are really very easy to hide in the profiles of the metal frame. The frame can be installed on absolutely any surface, even if the unevenness is simply catastrophic. Even heavy finishes can be installed on a structure with a metal frame, for example, tiles, which a plasterboard wall without a frame will not always withstand. However, the process of installing the frame too complicates the installation as a whole, because it is the frame that takes up the bulk of the work. In addition, you will need to spend more money on metal profiles. The frame also slightly reduces the overall size of the free space in the room.

Installation directly on the wall, in turn, is quite simple, does not require additional costs and does not reduce the room. However, this design is much less durable and more susceptible to damage. Plasterboard sheets glued to the wall are not able to withstand anything too heavy. Another fundamental drawback is that this installation option is significantly inferior in terms of the degree of sound insulation of the room.

Frame wall installation

The first thing to do before installing the frame is, of course, draw up a diagram of the future structure, especially if it involves the installation of additional niches, and apply markings on the wall, with which it will be easier for you to install the frame crate. To begin with, we find the most protruding point on the wall. It is from her that all measurements will be carried out, and the installation of the frame will go from her. This is necessary so that the frame is mounted completely even, and, accordingly, the wall begins to level out. From this point, we mark the ceiling, floor, as well as all adjacent walls.

Next, we need two types of metal profiles - ceiling and guides. With the help of dowels, first we fix the guide profiles. The step between them should be one meter. After that, on straight hangers, you need to install the ceiling profiles at a distance of one and a half meters. To make sure that all the profiles are installed correctly and securely enough to each other, check the frame for strength with your own hands. It should not stagger, no profile should lag behind, and the attachment points should be fixed to the maximum. If the frame is strong and reliable enough, then you did everything right.

When the frame is installed and well secured, it's time to take care of sound insulation and communications. Usually, soundproofing material is laid in the gaps between the profiles. Any material you think is reliable enough will do. Communications through a metal frame are easy to lay, but one very important detail should be remembered. If you are laying electrical wiring in the frame, then the wires should be pulled through the corrugated pipe. This is necessary because the edges of the metal profiles can simply damage the wires.

It's time to install the drywall sheets. Cut them into the pieces you want. This is very easy to do. You will not need any tools other than a stationery knife or jigsaw. Plasterboard sheets are very easy to cut. But when you cut them, be prepared for the fact that the whole room will be in plaster dust. After you have received the plasterboard pieces of the size you need, screw them to the frame using metal screws. It is important to deepen the screws so that their caps are completely hidden in the material.

After all the drywall sheets are installed, it's time for finishing. Before proceeding with the filler, do not forget to prime the plasterboard surface of the wall. We need a putty. It can be sold ready-made or dry. It is more often recommended to buy dry putty. Putty powder is diluted in water as indicated in the instructions. Then we take a spatula and cover the wall with the prepared putty. It is important to fill well with putty all the seams formed at the joints of the drywall sheets. The holes from the caps of the screws and the cracks formed during the installation process are also smeared. The putty needs to be spread so that the end result is a perfectly flat wall without defects and irregularities.

When you are sure that the wall is flat enough and the putty is dry enough, you can start decorative finishing. For this type of cladding, absolutely any finishing material is suitable. You can, for example, paint the wall with plain paint, or you can use acrylic paints to create original designs. This option is especially suitable for creative people who love and know how to draw. You can also wallpaper the wall. These options relate to the advantages that drywall gave us, namely the smooth wall created with it. But the frame also gives us advantages in decorative finishing. Tile or natural stone can be attached to such a structure. The latter option is best installed on green moisture-resistant plasterboard sheets.

Gluing of drywall sheets directly to the wall is also done, only without a frame. Glue is used instead. It is applied to the back of the sheet in the same way as we all applied PVA glue to cardboard for crafts in childhood. The edges of the sheet are smeared, and one large clot of glue fixes the central part. However, if possible, it is recommended to install plasterboard sheathing only with a frame, even if the wall is fairly flat. This will help avoid future defects. However, it should be remembered that the frame provides a relative guarantee of reliability only if it is correctly installed.

The advent of drywall in the construction industry made it possible to move away from activities related to leveling surfaces, which were previously carried out with leveling solutions (plaster and putty). The installation of this material allows you to create a surface with a high level of evenness on a wall or ceiling. This, in turn, is a guarantee of high-quality finishing.

Gypsum plasterboard allows you to align the planes with any indicators of the difference in the area to be trimmed. If this drop is small up to 5 cm, then a frameless installation method can be used. If more than 5 cm, then drywall is mounted only on the frame.

Tools and Profiles

Currently, this leveling material is installed on the battens made of metal profiles. The technology itself for erecting a new surface is so simple that it can even cope with it.

Photo of a curly plasterboard wall with backlight

Much more photo of drywall walls look.

To do this, you will need the gypsum plasterboard itself and several profiles: for finishing the wall - a guide and rack, for the ceiling - a guide and ceiling. As well as direct suspensions and self-tapping screws with dowels.

From tools:

Perforator;
Screwdriver;
Edging planer;
Level;
Plumb line;
Putty knife.

Tool for mounting metal frames for drywall

Installation of a frame for drywall

Consider. To do this, you need to determine the slope of the wall itself. It can be tilted inward or outward. To determine this, it is necessary to attach a suspension to the upper corner of the wall. If its sinker is not a certain distance away from the bottom corner of the floor, then the wall is tilted inward. If it lies tightly on the surface of the wall, then you will have to shift the plumb line installation site slightly towards yourself, that is, combine the sinker with the lower corner.

In the first case, it is on the ceiling, right next to the wall, to make marks in each opposite corner horizontally. Connect them with a line on which the guide profile is installed. Then, using a plumb line on the floor, determine two points at the corners, connect them together and fix the guide profile on the floor.

In order to carry out the installation of profiles simply, you need to cut them to the size of the wall length, make holes in them, install them along the line and apply marks for fasteners through the holes. Then a puncher makes holes in the floor or ceiling, where plastic dowels are hammered. It is to them that the upper and lower profiles are attached with self-tapping screws.

In the event that the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile (3 m), then they will have to be increased. There is nothing complicated about it. The two elements to be connected are inserted into each other with their ends and attached with a self-tapping screw. More often they refuse it, because the fastening is carried out along one line.

The standard distance between the centers of the guides is 60 cm

The next step is to install the rack-mount profiles. The two end elements can be installed at once, fastening to adjacent walls and to the upper and lower rail. To install intermediate elements, you will have to apply vertical lines to the wall, which will determine the place of their installation. The standard distance between them is 60 cm, because the width of the plasterboard sheet is 120 cm. That is, three profiles must be installed under each sheet, one of which is in the middle.

Along the lines drawn, straight hangers are installed every 50-60 cm, which are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws. To do this, you need a hammer drill and a screwdriver. To be sure that the intermediate elements will be in the same plane, it is necessary to pull a strong thread in several rows between the two extreme rack profiles. It is along this line to carry out the alignment.

Option to strengthen the frame under the drywall with a wooden bar

After the intermediate profiles are installed, you can install several crossbars every 30-40-50-60 cm. The step is chosen at your discretion, much will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The higher the ceiling, the less frequent the step. The crossbars will strengthen the frame, make it rigid.

Fastening drywall

So, the crate is ready, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Before installing each sheet, it is necessary to process its edges with a special plane to create a small groove when joining. It will have to be repaired with putty.

We raise the sheet, set it to the crate so that it lies on three vertical profiles. In this case, the edge of the panel should lie in the middle of the frame element. That is, two sheets must be joined at once on one profile. This does not apply to a corner piece, which is completely covered by the sheet.

Fastening of drywall is done with self-tapping screws, here it is necessary to maintain certain dimensions.

The distance from the edge of the panel to the attachment point is 10-15 mm.
The distance between the fasteners is 100-150 mm.
The screw-in depth of the cap is up to 5 mm.

Puttying joints of plasterboard sheets

After all sheets are laid and secured, it is necessary to close up the joints. For this, a putty solution is used, with which the seam is filled. Then a special tape is immediately applied to it, which is covered with a layer of putty on top. A spatula is required here. Please note that the attachment points of drywall to the frame are also sealed with mortar.

The nuances of building a frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest angle in the room. For this, the height of all corners is measured, the smallest size is what you need. It is here, at a certain height, which determines the location of the new ceiling, that the laser level is set. Its light rays on the walls will outline the outline. They will have to install guide profiles to the walls.

Usually it is carried out along the room, therefore, across the room from one of the walls, we set aside the dimensions in increments of 60 cm. We draw lines along them for installing suspensions. The latter are installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Several rows of threads are stretched between the two longitudinal guides, along which the intermediate elements of the crate will have to be aligned.

Option of a reinforced frame for a plasterboard ceiling

The profiles are installed with their ends in the groove of the guides, their alignment along the threads and fastening to the hangers. After that, the frame will need to be reinforced with crossbars, as is the case with the wall.

Finishing plasterboard

If the plasterboard wall needs to be painted or wallpaper pasted on it, then finishing work cannot be carried out in this form. Drywall will have to be trimmed. For this, its surface is required additionally. This material has a fine-grained structure, and if you apply it in a thin layer and finish with sandpaper, then the plane will be even.

Scheme of this type of work:

The plasterboard surface is treated with a primer. It is necessary for the surface to dry out. This usually takes 4-6 hours. This must be done in order for the cardboard to become the owner of a surface with a high degree of adhesion.
Next, a layer of putty is applied, which must also be dried.
If the degree of evenness does not suit you, then you will have to apply another layer. But before that, the first one must be treated with a primer.
Now you need to process the putty surface with fine-grained emery paper. For this, a trowel is used, on which sandpaper is attached. In circular unhurried movements, without effort and pressure, you need to walk over the entire treated area.
Then a layer of primer is applied to the drywall.
Once it is dry, you can paint or wallpaper.