The blind area around the house is the correct device technology, parameters and calculations. How to make ebbs around the house with your own hands: the right blind area Correctly make a blind area near the house

The blind area surrounding the house plays a very important role in ensuring long and comfortable use of the house. It provides protection for the foundation structure and the soil around it from water ingress. The accumulation of moisture near the house when snow melts or during precipitation can erode the topsoil and reach the foundation. If she manages to seep to the sole of the foundation and damage it, then its bearing capacity and strength will be reduced, which as a result can cause the destruction of the house. It is especially important to correctly use a shallow base, in which the sole is close to the surface, which is why moisture can easily reach its depth.

The width of the blind area should be as wide as possible, as it should protect the base.

As a result of soaking, the strength of the sole decreases, and it begins to sag unevenly, destroying the foundation. However, even in the case of using recessed bases, it is also necessary. It must always be done, regardless of the design of the base, type of soil and other conditions.

Preparing to create a blind area around the house

How to make a high-quality one so that it lasts as long as possible and becomes a reliable protection for the foundation? To do this, you need to choose the right material of good quality and clearly follow the technology.

First of all, you need to choose a width. Since it must protect the base, its width should be as wide as possible.

The scheme of the blind area around the house.

In addition to the protective function, the blind area around the house is also erected as a path along the perimeter of the building. This must also be taken into account when choosing its width so that in the future you do not have to walk on it sideways. Based on the foregoing, we can conclude that the most optimal width of a correctly made blind area around the house, which meets all standards and requirements, is in the range of about 1-2.5 m.

The blind area around the house must be done with a certain slope, due to which water will drain away from the walls of the building. Building codes define the value of the slope, equal to 50-100 mm per 1 m of width. This means that the edge of the blind area around the house, whose width is 1 m, will have a height of 50-100 mm near the wall of the house, and its other edge will be flush with the ground. The resulting descent is good for draining water from the building: water will flow down it quickly enough, but it is difficult to walk along such a blind area. However, if you make the angle of inclination smaller, then the water will drain much more slowly or even linger on the surface, but it will be much more convenient to walk. A compromise between efficiency and comfort is considered to be a slope of 15 mm per 1 m of width. When walking, such a slope is almost not noticeable, and the water flows down completely and does not linger on the surface.

Back to index

Materials and coating for the blind area around the house

Scheme of the blind area device.

In order to properly make a blind area around the house, you need to prepare the appropriate materials. There are several popular options for its manufacture, in which various materials are used, but the most common is a blind area made of concrete.

The manufacturing technology is quite simple. First of all, the area for the blind area is cleared, after which the reinforcement bars with a diameter of 6 mm or more are laid in the form of a grid. The rods are connected to each other by means of a knitting wire. Next, a formwork made of wooden boards is installed. At the end, the formwork is poured with concrete mortar.

To independently make a blind area around the house, prepare the following tools and materials:

shovel;
Hydraulic level;
Wheelbarrow for transportation of crushed stone and removal of soil;
Manual tamper;
Waterproofing materials;
insulation;
Sand;
crushed stone;
clay;
Reinforced mesh with 10x10 cells or reinforcement bars.

Before starting work, it is advisable to perform the necessary preparatory actions, for which you should organize free access to the house from all sides, as well as prepare the tools and materials listed earlier.

The next stage is the execution of marking work. It is most convenient to carry out this procedure using wooden or metal pegs (driven in around the perimeter of the future) and a cord pulled between them. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the blind area has the same width at all points (as a rule, around private houses with a width of 1 m).

Back to index

Do-it-yourself concrete blind area around the house: step by step instructions

Scheme of the construction of a concrete blind area.

From the blind area, made in accordance with all norms and rules, depends on the durability of the foundation, as well as the amount of money and time spent on the construction of the structure itself. It is better to take care of creating a blind area immediately after the completion of the construction of the house.

The blind area around the house consists of 2 structural layers. The first of these is the underlying layer. The main task of this layer is to create a compacted even base for the coating. Material used: sand, clay or small gravel. Layer thickness - up to 20 mm. The choice of material for the underlying layer depends entirely on the material of the second layer, i.e. coatings. The main task of the coating is resistance to the damaging effects of moisture and water resistance. Material used: clay (it can be used both as a base layer and for creating a coating), asphalt mix, concrete, small cobblestone. Layer thickness - up to 100 mm.

Scheme of the device of the concrete blind area.

This is true for any type of blind area around the house. Next, the instructions for the blind area device will be given using the example of the most popular option - concrete.

To prepare a concrete mixture, it is necessary to take M400 cement, crushed stone and sand in proportions of 1: 4: 2.

Make markings for the future blind area around the house. The minimum width of the structure was described earlier. Remove and compact the earth around the perimeter of the building. Usually the soil is removed at the zero cycle of construction work. When constructing a blind area, it is necessary to prepare the ground exactly for the width of the future structure in accordance with the markings made. In this case, it is necessary to take into account what material will be used in construction. For the ground, you need to take it out to a depth of about 25 cm (“on the bayonet of a shovel”).

The next step is the manufacture of formwork from boards. For formwork, boards with a thickness of 20 mm are used. A small layer of clay is laid on the compacted earth. The clay is leveled and compacted. A layer of sand about 10 cm thick is laid. The sand must be carefully compacted, for which it should be additionally spilled with water. Try not to overdo it. Remember that the bottom is clay. Especially carefully you need to compact the sand at the foundation. Now you need to lay the crushed stone with a layer of 60-70 mm.

The blind area of the foundation is an important element of the house, which extends its life twice and more. And this element is quite within the power to make even a beginner in the construction industry - no engineering education or great practical experience is required (although this will be useful).

Table of contents:

The functional purpose of the blind area at home

Many owners of private households do not quite understand the importance of the blind area - there is an opinion that a properly erected foundation, in compliance with all building codes, does not need any additional element. But experts say that the design in question is functional, and should be present in every home. The main functions of the foundation blind area include:

Well, do not forget about the decorative component of the design in question - it is much more pleasant to contemplate the finished building with a neat space around the entire perimeter of the house than to be content with dirt, dust and snow drifts.

Builders divide the foundation blind area into three main types:

Rigid- are made of concrete, asphalt or cement-pouring mortar, which is spilled over rubble. The rigid type of blind area of the foundation refers to monolithic structures.
semi-rigid- are performed by constructing a multi-layer cushion, on top of which paving slabs, porcelain stoneware are laid, laid out with cobblestones.
Soft- the simplest in execution, the essence of the process is to pour a layer of crushed stone over a pre-created multi-layer cushion.

The listed types of blind area of the foundation perform all the functions that are inherent in the design in question. But it is worth knowing that each of them has a different lifespan.:

It is worth mentioning the decorative component of the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation - you must admit, made of paving slabs, this element of the structure will not differ from the beautiful one, it will fit perfectly into the overall landscape design of the site.

How to make the simplest foundation blind area

It is believed that the easiest way is to make a concrete pavement 60 cm wide around the perimeter of the entire house. In order for the work to bring the desired result, and the life of the blind area to be as long as possible, it is worth knowing some rules for completing the task:

Carefully calculate the width of the blind area - it should not be flush with the roof eaves, but it cannot be made smaller than this ledge. The general formula for calculating the optimal width of the blind area is the eaves / ledge of the roof + 20 cm.
The entire structure of the concrete blind area must be monolithic, that is, go continuously along the perimeter of the house - this will protect the basement / subfloor from moisture penetration.
It is imperative that during the construction of the blind area it is necessary to provide for slope equipment - this will serve as a drain of water from the building.

In general, the structure under consideration consists of two layers. The first is the so-called underlying layer, which consists of clay, sand or gravel. The task of the underlying layer is to create a dense and absolutely even base for the main coating. And the second layer is the coating that performs the task of water resistance and resistance to the negative effects of water. The underlying layer is usually made in 20 mm, the coating is 10 cm.

Well, now the main question is a step-by-step instruction for the construction of a concrete foundation blind area:

Under the future blind area you need to markup. To make it easier and more accurate, you will have to climb onto the roof and mark the projected points of the protruding cornice with a plumb line (by this time you already need to get off the roof). Further, we add 20 cm to these points on the ground and get the width of the blind area.
We remove soil around the entire perimeter of the house. Many do this even at the stage of building the building itself, but even if it is decided to make a blind area to an already completely residential building, then you just need to do the process again. The depth of soil removal specifically for the concrete blind area should correspond to 20-25 cm.

Note:many experts recommend that after removing the soil, treat all visible roots of trees and shrubs with special chemical solutions. Whether to follow their recommendations is a purely voluntary matter, but by applying chemical solutions it is quite realistic to protect the blind area of the foundation from destruction.

Formwork is installed from boards 20 mm thick. It is placed along the outer edge of the future blind area, you will definitely need to fix it - this is done with the help of wooden (or metal) stakes.

We lay a 10 cm layer of sand on clean soil and carefully tamp it down. To get a really dense base, you can moisten a layer of sand with water. But it is to moisten, and not to shed - in this case, the sand will be safely compacted into the ground, and the principle of arranging the underlying layer will be violated.
The next layer is crushed stone, which can be of fine or medium fraction. The layer thickness is 5-7 cm, it is also compacted.
Now it's the turn of laying the reinforcing structure. Some craftsmen make it themselves, using metal rods and wire for this, connecting the grate with a step of 100 mm. You should not waste time and effort on this work - a ready-made reinforcing mesh with a step of 100 mm is sold at retail outlets and has a quite adequate cost.

Note:the next step should be the arrangement of an expansion joint that will prevent the blind area itself and the basement of the house from destruction during the "landing" of the house. The width of the expansion joint should be 100-150 mm, it is filled either with a mixture of sand and fine gravel, or with two layers of roofing material.

Before you start pouring the concrete solution, prepare the wooden slats, which must be pre-treated with any protective solution (for example, bituminous mastic). These rails must be installed on the edge every one and a half to two meters as the blind area is poured with concrete. Wooden slats are located across, set at the desired slope and are called an expansion joint. Please note that when pouring them with concrete, even the minimum visibility of wood over the blind area should not be allowed.

It remains only to pour the concrete solution, level it and cover it with any cloth that needs to be moistened at least once a day with a small amount of water. Such a "compress" will prevent cracking of the surface of the concrete blind area during the solidification of the main solution. If the construction of a concrete blind area is carried out during the rainy season, then it is not necessary to cover it with something - just natural moisture will do all the work.

The drying time of the concrete blind area is 7-10 days, after which you can remove the formwork and sweep the resulting concrete surface.

How to make a blind area of the foundation of paving slabs

In this case, the process will be somewhat more complicated and painstaking - only the layers will need to be done many times more. And yet, even experts believe that the blind area of paving slabs is subject to novice builders - it is important to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

First, you need to dig a trench according to a pre-made markup (how to do this is described a little higher in the same article). The depth of the ditch is 25 cm, the soil in it must be well tamped. Next, a layer of clay is poured - it should be 10 cm, after pouring, we work with a manual rammer. The next layer is sand, 3-5 cm thick, which is also rammed after laying. Then a layer of waterproofing material is laid - it is advisable to use geotextiles for this.

Note:between clay and sand it is necessary to lay a pressure rail or corner. This is necessary to drain water, which inevitably gets to these layers from the joints between paving slabs. And one more thing - immediately, when laying the first layer of the entire “pie”, make an external slope of at least 1.5 degrees.

Secondly, after laying / tamping a thin layer of sand and laying a waterproofing material, crushed stone of fine or medium fraction is poured and is also well tamped. The crushed stone layer should be 2-3 times thicker than the bottom layer of sand - this will ensure high-quality drainage of the entire sub-base system.

Thirdly, another layer of sand is poured onto the rubble and it must be thick - at least 10 cm. It needs to be compacted, but not as carefully as the previous ones. At the end of all the work, the resulting “pie” design is thoroughly spilled with water - there is no need to achieve standing puddles on the sand, but it is necessary to achieve a uniform wet consistency.

In principle, the most time-consuming work is completed, it remains only to lay paving slabs. This is done with a rubber mallet, gently pressing each tile into the thickness of the sand and leveling along the laying.

The pavement of the paving slab foundation should look like a garden path, so be sure to lay out a row of imitation curbs - for this, the paving slabs are simply placed “on the rub” and also pressed into the thickness of the sand.

Note:before buying paving slabs for the blind area of the foundation, consider the already created landscape design of the backyard plot and the exterior of the house. And even if all the landscaping work is postponed “for later”, it is worth deciding on the style in advance - paving slabs on the market are presented in a wide range of colors and shapes.

Do-it-yourself foundation blind area is not a complicated process and even somewhat fascinating. The fact is that it is on the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe foundation that you can learn how to make the right substrate for concrete pouring - this will also come in handy for other construction work on the site.

In order to prevent the erosion of the soil around the house by rain and melt water, as well as to divert precipitation from the foundation, a blind area is made around the house. These works must be carried out before the final finishing of the basement. More specifically, decide for yourself. But it is undesirable to delay: leaving a house or a bath without a blind area for the winter, you can have several cracks in the foundation in the spring.

The blind area around the house is a simple structure. However, it greatly extends the life of buildings. Water during the autumn bad weather seeps to the foundation. In frosts, it freezes, increasing in volume, which creates excess pressure. As a result of this load, cracks appear in the foundation, into which water also penetrates. Freezing, it makes them even wider. For some time without a blind area - and the base requires serious expensive repairs. Sometimes the damage is so severe that it cannot be repaired.

But these are not all the functions that a protective coating around the house can perform. In some cases, it is used as a track. Sometimes, by laying insulation and a layer of waterproofing under the blind area, it is possible to improve the performance of the building and correct some of the shortcomings made during construction in heat and. In addition, from the point of view of decor, it serves as a logical conclusion in the design of the house.

What is the blind area made of

The cheapest option is from concrete mortar. But it takes more time to build such a design. Especially on heaving soils: a special cushion and reinforcement is required. All the time until the solution gains strength, you can’t walk on it, and this is at least four to five days.

Other types of protective belt covering around the house are paving slabs, paving stones, bricks, natural stone, porcelain stoneware, etc. There are a lot of options today. The main thing is that they have the following properties:

did not pass water;
did not crack when freezing / freezing;
had high resistance to abrasion;
have aesthetic appeal;
had a long service life.

There is another material for the blind area, but it is rarely used in private housing construction - asphalt is laid around the house. As for the attractiveness (as in the case of concrete), the question is moot, and the rest of the characteristics are simply excellent.

But protective coating is not everything. More materials will be needed. What exactly - depends on the option you choose to implement. We can say for sure that sand and gravel will be required. You may need waterproofing and slab insulation.

Dimensions

Since the main task of the blind area is to drain melt and rainwater, its width should be at least 20 cm more than the roof overhang. But experts do not recommend doing it less than 60 cm - moisture can seep to the foundation.

The width of the protective belt also depends on the type of soil. If these are normal soils that drain water well, then 60 cm is enough. If the house stands on loam, other heaving or unstable soils, the width should be up to 1 meter.

The main parameters of the blind area for the normal drainage of water from the foundation

But the blind area should also deepen. Its depth depends on the type of soil, on the functions that it will perform and on the thickness of the top finishing layer.

If the house stands on normal, non-fluffy soils (not clay or clay-containing soils), and they will not walk on the surface, it is enough to make a 10 cm thick sand bed. Tiles, stone, etc. can be laid on top. This means that the depth of the trench will be about 10-20 cm - it already depends on the thickness of the finishing material. Only for the coating, which is made up of fragments, a border is needed. So you dig in edge stones around the perimeter, strengthen them, only then pour sand on the bottom of the trench.

If the formwork is to be used as a walkway, a heavier weight-distributing underlay is required. At the bottom of the ditch, first, crushed stone of a medium-sized fraction of about 15-20 cm is laid, and sand is already on it, and only then a finishing coating.

What else is required is compliance with slopes: the decline comes from home. So moisture will drain into the drainage system or the soil located around. The amount of slope depends on the type of protective coating used. For concrete and asphalt, the slope is 3-5% (for 1 meter, the height difference is 3-5 cm). When laying stone, tiles, porcelain stoneware, the slope is 5-10%.

Work order

After the dimensions are chosen, they proceed to the actual device of the blind area. In the general case, this occurs in several successive stages.

Marking and soil removal

The selected width is set aside along the perimeter of the building. Here it must be said that in those places where they will walk, it can be made wider.

Mark out, usually by driving in pegs. Stretching a twine or cord between the pegs, outline the scope of work. Throughout this area, it will be necessary to remove the sod and part of the soil. At the same time, the roots of the plants are removed. Often treated with chemicals that prevent plant germination. If this is not done, germinating, they will destroy the coating.

Expansion joint device

It is very important to remember when performing that the blind area and the foundation should not be connected. To do this, it is necessary to leave an expansion joint around the perimeter of the foundation, about 2 cm wide. In practice, these are either foam plastic strips 2 cm thick, or a folded roofing material in two layers attached to the foundation.

An expansion joint is necessary so that when the soil moves under the blind area, it does not press on the foundation. If this is not done, instead of preventing destruction, it will create pressure, which will sooner or later lead to cracks in the walls.

Backfill and finish coat

If you follow the "folk" technology, a layer of clay is poured onto the bottom of the trench. It will prevent moisture seepage. It is rammed, already at this stage creating a slope from the foundation. This backfill is suitable for any type of soil. Let it be hard and long rammed, but it will not conduct water. If you use sand for the blind area of a house standing on clay soils, most of the water will be just under the foundation.

Things will go faster if you use a tamping machine. If there is none, they take a log of medium diameter, saw off 80-90 cm. The height should be such that you do not have to bend over - your hands should be free to reach the top edge. On the one hand, they fill the cross member - the handle. This deck is rammed, raising and lowering it.

Then a layer of sand is poured. It is spilled with water and also carefully compacted. With normal soils and if they will not walk along the blind area, paving slabs or paving stones can be laid. When using concrete as a protective coating, it will also be necessary to pour and compact a layer of crushed stone, arrange formwork and expansion joints, decompose the reinforcing belt and only then pour the solution. So the production of a concrete track takes a lot of time.

Blind area insulation

If a blind area is made around a house with a basement or basement, it is necessary to make it both heat and waterproof at the same time. Insulation is necessary for any slab foundation - it will prevent the soil from freezing under the slab.

Some experts argue that in central Russia and in the north, insulation is necessary in any houses with seasonal residence. The fact is that in a heated house, the heating itself prevents the foundation from freezing. And if the blind area is insulated, then only for the purpose of saving fuel. In a house with seasonal residence, additional measures must be taken to extend the life of the building. And that's why. Any material can endure a certain number of freeze and thaw cycles. After that it starts to collapse. In the absence of insulation in one season, the foundation will freeze and freeze as many times as the weather changes - in autumn and spring, the weather often alternates between warm and cold weather. What this state of affairs will lead to is clear: after some short time, destruction will begin.

For thermal insulation, a heat-insulating layer is attached to the base to the entire depth of the ditch (or better, the foundation). It is also laid on the bedding under the protective coating. To insulate the blind area around the house, the following materials are used:

expanded polystyrene;
foamed polyurethane;
Styrofoam.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

This material is one of the best for insulating foundations. At the same time, it retains heat and does not let moisture through: its hygroscopicity is close to zero. Its disadvantage is that it melts easily. But for the insulation of the foundation and formwork, this disadvantage is insignificant.

It is advisable to spread a plastic film on horizontally laid out plates - it will protect the joints of the plates from water leakage.

Formwork with polystyrene is done in this way:

Compacted coarse-grained sand with a layer of 15 cm.
Ruberoid. At the same time, it must be brought to the walls by 15 cm.
Polystyrene plates, joints are glued with sealant. The layer thickness is 10 cm. It can be either one slab, or two 5 cm each. If there are two slabs, they need to be glued with overlapping seams - this will be more reliable protection against moisture penetration.
Polyethylene film 200 microns.
Sand layer. It is carefully rammed, trying not to push through the plates.
Protective material.

Any film can be used as a protective material. But a reinforcing mesh (metal with a cell of 10 * 10 cm) is additionally placed under the concrete, and only then the solution is poured under the slope.

Foamed polyurethane

It is sprayed from special devices. It does not rot, practically does not absorb water, the operating temperature range is from -60 o C to +150 o C. It is applied quickly - all work can take three to four hours, but the use of a special apparatus entails payment for services. They are not cheap - one of the components of the composition is toxic. So for all its attractiveness, this method is used infrequently.

Foam insulation

This is the cheapest of the heaters. It has good heat-insulating properties, does not let water through, and also has good sound-proofing properties. Its only drawback is its low mechanical strength. When using it, an additional reinforcing belt is required. The sequence of actions is the same as when insulating with polystyrene, only two differences:

pour sand on top of the insulation in a thicker layer, ram it only by patting it with a shovel, while walking on the foam is impossible;
under a tile or paving stone, a reinforcing belt is also needed, which is covered with a second layer of sand from above.

Despite the low price, polystyrene is not the best choice: it is too afraid of loads. If the path will be walked, it should not be used. To reduce the cost of insulation, you can use it for sticking to the foundation, and buy polystyrene foam on the formwork itself. This will be the best option.

Waterproofing

Waterproofing is necessary for heaving soils and the absence of insulation of the foundation and blind area. In this case, the less water there is under the building, the less likely it is that heaving forces will harm your building.

The sequence of layers for waterproofing is as follows:

A layer of waterproofing - an ordinary dense polyethylene film 200-300 microns thick - clay is laid. It does not need to be pulled - there must be some freedom of movement so that it does not tear during seasonal shifts of the soil. The height of entry to the foundation is 15-20 cm. It is nailed to the foundation with a clamping bar (if wooden, then it must be treated with hot drying oil so that it does not rot). But this is done later, after laying a layer of sand and geotextiles. So for now, fix the film on the wall, for example, with a few nails.
10-15 cm of sand are poured onto the film. He is rammed. Geotextiles are laid on top. For a blind area, it is a godsend - it allows moisture to pass through, redistributes the load, does not tear, does not allow different layers to mix, is not damaged by insects and rodents, and does not allow plants to germinate. And all this is some kind of woven or non-woven membrane (they come in different types). Lay the geotextile so that it overlaps the film laid below, and attach both layers with a plank to the foundation. On the other hand, it must cover the entire remaining height of the dug trench.
Then there are two options:
1. To save money, you can fill the remaining cake with crushed stone, and lay a reinforcing layer on it - a metal mesh made of steel bar with a step of 10 * 10 cm. Concrete can be poured from above.
2. When using paving stones or tiles, the cake will be more difficult. On the compacted rubble, it will be necessary to lay another layer of geotextile. On it - lay another layer of sand, and already lay protective and finishing tiles on the sand.

Two options for the blind area - from concrete and tiles, rubble stone, etc.

This design wicks away water very well.

Soft hidden blind area

Modern waterproofing materials allow you not to make a protective coating around the house. They effectively retain and divert water, while the cost of such a cake is much less. In this case, they speak of a hidden blind area. And all because immediately from the foundation you can sow grass or arrange a flower garden, and all the water-removing layers are located in the thickness of the rock.

For the device of a soft blind area, profiled membranes are used. They have a non-linear structure - low height protrusions and depressions.

Do-it-yourself soft blind area around the house is easy to implement. The only thing that can cause some difficulties is a rather large amount of earthwork. The width of the ditch is desirable from 1.2 m to 1.5 m. But the depth can be small - about 25-30 cm.

The procedure for installing a hidden soft blind area is as follows:

First, they remove the soil, immediately form a slope of 3-5% from the house.
They are treated with chemicals from plants.
The profiled membrane is rolled out over the entire width of the blind area, one edge is led a little onto the wall and fixed, the second is simply left free.
A layer of geotextile is rolled out from above. It is laid in the same way - one edge is fixed on the wall. Both layers of waterproofing materials can be fastened together with one clamping bar.
Pebbles or a large fraction of screenings are poured onto geotextiles and rammed.
The next layer is medium and fine screening, and on top is sand. Each layer is rammed separately.
Fertile soil is poured from above and plants are planted.

Despite the apparent unreliability, this design removes water even better than those made using traditional technologies. And the work, as you can see, is not complicated and expensive. If necessary, you can lay tiles or paving stones on a layer of sand. Then the look will be more traditional.

There is one caveat: if the soil on the site is clay (namely clay) or your house is on a slope, it will be necessary to supplement the structure with a drainage pipe. It is laid at a distance of 1.2-1.5 m from the wall of the house, at the level where the geotextile bevel ends (you can lower it a little lower). But at the same time, the membrane and geotextiles should cover it from below and from the outer side so that the collected moisture flows through the perforation into the pipe, and then is discharged through it into the sewer or drainage system.

Features of concreting

When constructing a concrete blind area around the house with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account some of the subtleties of the technology.

Firstly, the composition of the solution must be frost-resistant. Why is clear. You can buy ready-made mixes, but it's not cheap. You can use additives that increase the frost resistance of concrete. In the simplest case, add more cement. Make a solution based on: one part of cement, three parts of sand and gravel.

Secondly, to avoid the appearance of cracks, it is necessary to make expansion joints. For this, boards with a thickness of 25 mm are usually used. They are treated from rotting with hot drying oil or. Then they put it on edge, setting the required slope, approximately every 2-3 meters. Secure with metal pins or wooden pegs. When pouring the solution, they can be used as beacons. In the future, the slats will ensure the mobility of the formwork during seasonal soil movements.

And thirdly, to give the surface greater strength and a more aesthetic appearance, it is sprinkled with dry cement, which is rubbed with a trowel. Do this after the filling is completed. This process is called concrete ironing. The surface after that becomes strong, smooth, with a slight sheen.

Results

Making a blind area around the house with your own hands is not the easiest, but far from the most difficult task. There are many solutions that will improve the performance of the building and extend its life.

27.12.2016 1 Comment

Filling the blind area around the house is an important stage in the construction of any house or structure. It is invisible and seems insignificant. But an experienced builder and user knows its importance. It is necessary to observe the technology of its manufacture, to choose the right type. With a careful study of construction technology, it can be done with your own hands.

In contact with

classmates

Purpose

The idea of \u200b\u200bthe meaning of the concrete blind area will help answer the question: “How to properly fill the blind area around the house?” The main mission of the blind area is to protect the foundation of the house. This building part drains rainwater, spring floods. The farther moisture goes from the perimeter of the house, the drier the basement. The blind area reduces the load on the drainage system, saves vertical waterproofing. The main parameter of the blind area is its width. The most common value is one meter.

You can limit yourself to a smaller size if the house is small and the size of the plot is tiny. But this deviation should not exceed 20 centimeters. An essential landmark is the cornice of the house. Its projection on the blind area should be 20 centimeters smaller, should be closer to the foundation. The blind area completes the architectural image of any house, serves as a territory for pedestrians. She must have a slight slope away from the house. So the water will be better discharged from the foundation. A two percent slope will suffice. Before starting work, it is important to calculate the height of the blind area near the wall of the house.

Construction and materials

The blind area looks like this:

Sand layer. It is rammed and compacted with irrigation.
Drainage. Rammed without watering.
waterproofing layer.
Concrete pavement.
Damper seam every 2 meters blind area.
Sod, which is adjacent to the blind area on the opposite side of the foundation.

It is impossible to fill the blind area around the house without materials:

Bedding. It is prepared before the start of pouring the solution. Its manufacture will require sand, crushed stone or gravel of not very large sizes. It is considered a violation to pour concrete over fine sand. Such a foundation will not be strong, it will definitely shrink. The more serious the design, the more reliable it is. It is preferable to make a pillow of at least two substances. The bottom layer will compact the soil, level the surface. You will need gravel or gravel. The second layer will need sand.
Reinforcing mesh. Fittings with a diameter of 6 to 8 millimeters are useful. The softer the soil, the smaller the cell sizes. They can be from 20 to 50 cm.
Wooden formwork. Enough boards with a thickness of 20-30 mm., And a width of 100 mm.
Concrete solution. The strength of concrete should not be less than B15. Using more serious concrete is economically unprofitable. But if the house is located in the northern latitudes, the concrete must be more frost-resistant.
Sealant.

It will be problematic to do this work without the following tools and devices:

Bayonet shovel, shovel shovel.
Hammer and nails for formwork.
Spatula, master.
Rule for leveling the solution.
Level, roulette.
Mixture container.
Buckets.
Twine or fishing line.

concrete mortar

The brand of concrete used should be based on winter temperatures. Do not use a brand below F50. The best option for Russian conditions is the F100 brand. The main thing in the manufacture of concrete on their own is to accurately maintain the proportions. The ideal option is to use a ready-made mixture from the factory. But it costs money, it will be very difficult for one to quickly work out the quantity that the concrete truck will deliver. Filling the blind area around the house is a laborious process: you simply can’t cope physically. Part of the concrete will disappear or seize, making problems for the near future.

Homemade concrete will require the use of four ingredients: water, sand, cement and crushed stone. The optimal brand of cement is M400. It is desirable to take sand of medium size, fine sand is suitable as an alternative. To obtain a mixture of brand B15, the following ratio will be required:

Cement - 1 share.
Sand - 2.9 shares.
Crushed stone - 4.9 shares.
Water - 0.6 shares.

If you take ten liters of cement, then the above proportion will give out 54 liters of concrete. Other brands of cement suggest a similar ratio of sand and a slightly smaller amount of coarse aggregate.

The order of the main operations

Proper filling of the blind area involves performing operations in strict accordance with the sequence:

Marking around the house. It will help determine the perimeter of the future structure.
Excavation around the entire perimeter of the house. The depth of the trench should take into account the thickness of all layers - the bedding and the concrete itself. The standard depth is 30 centimeters.
Foundation tamper.
Formwork installation. Should be a one-piece, solid construction.
Laying loose materials - crushed stone and sand. The process is accompanied by compaction. The minimum thickness of the first layer is 20 centimeters. Sometimes a small layer of clay (5 centimeters) is laid between the soil and bulk materials. The process of tamping sand is accompanied by watering. The closer to the foundation, the more effort is worth making. Instead of rubble, you can use a brick fight.
Laying of reinforcement meshes. If conventional reinforcement is used, then it is tied with wire.
Installation of boards that will serve as expansion joints. They will not allow concrete to collapse in winter. The step has already been indicated above: 2 meters.
Blind area concreting: laying the concrete itself and its compaction, leveling. The standard thickness is 15 centimeters.
Structural ironwork. It will give hardness, will reliably protect from moisture. Ironing is the backfilling of fresh mortar with a thin layer of cement after 20 minutes. With a spatula or trowel, it is rubbed over the entire surface of the blind area. This operation can be skipped if you will be laying tiles or other types of decorative material on the blind area.
Care of concrete in the process of setting. The structure must be protected from unauthorized entry of foreign objects, animals, guests of the yard.

Subtleties and nuances

The manufacture of the blind area should be started immediately after the construction of the foundation and its finishing. It should be remembered that the blind area should not closely adjoin it. It is necessary to provide a small gap between the base and the blind area. The recommended value is 20 millimeters. The gap will allow these two powerful structures to settle with different values. This will not lead to the appearance of cracks on their surface. If you do not use insulation for the foundation and blind area, then it is recommended to fill this gap with sealant.

Full setting of the filled blind area occurs after 4 weeks at a temperature of 20 degrees Celsius. The lower the temperature and the higher the humidity, the longer this period. There is a simple principle: the longer the better! But the formwork can be dismantled much earlier than this period. Concrete care will not be superfluous. It consists in systematic wetting. To prevent evaporation, you can fill the structure with a film. This will prevent cracking during setting.

Warming welcome. Extruded polystyrene foam, which is laid under a layer of concrete for backfill, will help. This procedure is relevant if the sole of the basement is above the freezing value of the soil. The ideal design of the blind area has a drain channel, which is located on its edge. It will help to effectively drain rainwater. The construction of this channel will not be problematic if the yard is sloped. The advanced blind area will be equipped with insulation, which is one with the insulation layer of the whole house. And the gap between the blind area and the foundation will favor this.

decorative design

The blind area can be not only a protective structure, but also become an ornament to the foundation of the house. Its surface can be covered with paving stones, bricks. FEMs are very popular - figured elements for paving. You can lay the blind area with asphalt, but it's expensive. The best option is paving stone. It has suitable strength, long service life, is produced in different colors. It is laid after the blind area has completely hardened. You can put it on a dry mix or on a regular solution of sand and cement. Connoisseurs add a little substance with which they wash dishes. The coating is laid on the mortar, leveled with a rubber mallet. The gaps between the elements are filled with sand or cement. You can walk a week after installation.

Additionally

Before starting all the work, you can take a small master class from specialists. Better yet, work for a few days as an assistant in a construction team. Remember about safety precautions, work with gloves. The main hazard in carrying out this work is lifting weights. The help of a partner will be appropriate.

In contact with

The blind area is a simple element that can significantly extend the life of a building. It is also an indispensable part of decorating the local area.

That do-it-yourself blind area around the house looks presentable, matching or matching the materials from which the sidewalk and the entrance to the garage are paved.

Answering the question of how to make a blind area around the house with your own hands and why it is needed at all, it would be useful to list the functions of this structure.

Protective. A properly built blind area with your own hands protects the foundation from prolonged contact with the foundation. The design provides for the drainage of water directly into the sewer.
Decorative. The blind area around the house gives the building a complete and solid look.
Prevention of swelling of the soil. Reducing soil freezing will avoid swelling of the soil. What's the use? There will be no soil shifts around the foundation, which means that its integrity will not be violated.
Thermal insulation. The blind area of the house significantly reduces the freezing of the soil and the foundation as a whole. Thanks to this, the floors will be warm and the heat will not leave the house.
Protects the plinth from dirt.

Where you may need a blind area

The blind area must be built not only near each capital building, but also near small buildings. This will create a slope for water to drain and protect the foundation. Its importance is not exaggerated at all, since this structure, made of concrete and bulk materials, has already established itself as a reliable foundation protection for many years. This means that having learned how to properly make a blind area around the house, you will not once again spend money on repairing the basement, and the walls will not crack from constant exposure to moisture.

What are the blind areas

The blind area is built taking into account how you are going to operate it in the future. The first step is to decide whether it will only perform a decorative function or be used as a sidewalk. In the first case, the slope can be made large, and in the second - minimal. Depending on their characteristics, blind areas are of different categories.

Types of blind area:

multilayer and two-layer;
cast, prefabricated and bulk;
soft and hard pads.

The following materials can be used:

wood;
tile;
concrete;
reinforced concrete slabs;
bricks;
cobblestones;
asphalt.

3 conditions for efficiency

In order for your blind area for the house to be effective in terms of protecting the foundation from excess water, the following conditions must be considered.

The first and most important rule is that the blind area should be made with a slope towards the site. The type of coverage affects the slope. A reliable concrete blind area should have a slope of at least 5-10 degrees.
In width, it should exceed the overhang of the roof by 30 centimeters. On heaving soils, it is made no longer than one meter, on sandy soils - at least 0.6 meters.
The correct blind area is built around the entire house without gaps. Since the settlement at the blind area and at the foundation is different, it is necessary to build an expansion joint, which is covered with sand, filled with bitumen or filled with sealant.

Popular blind area devices

When cladding the facade with panels, siding or stone cladding, the blind area plays an important role, since it is the basis for installing the cladding.

In its absence, a noticeable gap appears between the skin and the ground level. This, probably, should not even be talked about, because no one will finish their facade without a pre-built blind area.

Concrete is the easiest option

The technology involves the creation of 2 layers. The first layer is the underlayment. It is necessary to create an even compacted base. For this, the following materials can be used: fine gravel, clay and sand. The choice of materials for creating the sub-base depends on what materials will be used for the second layer. The coating must be waterproof and resistant to moisture.

Markup. The required dimensions of the structure were discussed above. The earth is removed and compacted around the entire perimeter of the building. The earth is being prepared exactly for the marked width. For a concrete structure, the earth is taken out to a depth of at least 25 cm.
Formwork. To create the formwork, a board with a thickness of 20 mm is used. A layer of clay is placed on the compacted earth, which is also compacted. After that, a 10-centimeter layer of sand is laid. To make a good seal, it is spilled with water. Now a layer of crushed stone of 60 mm is laid.
Reinforcement. The use of reinforcing mesh increases the stretching of the blind area in tension and compression. In addition, it will be quite difficult to destroy it - maintainability and vandal resistance increase. Reinforcing mesh is purchased with delivery to the facility. The mesh is usually sold in sheets of 2x6 meters, which is very convenient. You can fold it in half so that the width is 1 meter, this is ideal for reinforcement. You can cut the mesh with an ordinary grinder into fragments 1x2 meters in size. You can also cut into 3-meter pieces, but due to the heavy weight it is very inconvenient to carry them. The mesh is mounted in the formwork so that the distance from it to the crushed stone cushion is 2 cm. This is done in order to place the mesh inside the concrete, not on the pillow. No difficulties should arise, because no matter how you ram the pillow, pebbles will always remain above the surface. The cut fragments of the mesh must be overlapped. Excess wires are bent or cut off by a grinder. Reinforcement is the fastest and easiest step. This is enough for 2 people.
Pouring concrete. When pouring concrete, the mesh can strongly bend - the concrete will begin to squeeze it out. You will need to quickly tamp the area or, after solidification, start cutting off excess fragments. It should be noted that this is not an easy procedure.

Waterproof option

If you are planning to make a drainage system, then a permeable system is suitable for you. This is the easiest option. Geotextile material is laid in a compacted trench, on which expanded clay, pebbles, gravel or crushed stone are laid.

Geotextile material is used to prevent crushed stone from being pressed into the base. Having chosen such a blind area, you should be prepared for the fact that it will have to be corrected regularly, and walking on it is not very convenient.

The use of paving slabs

To create a solid layer, crushed stone with sand can be used, on top of which the tiles are laid. Here you can not do without the creation of a drainage system. You can also create waterproofing at the base of the blind area with water drained into the sewer.

We prepare the base. The earth is dug to a depth of tile size + 10 cm. To create the effect of water resistance, clay is used, which is laid at an angle to a height of 10 cm.
PVC waterproofing layer, laid on top of the clay. Waterproofing is attached to the wall with a metal strip. Next, sand is laid with a layer of 4 centimeters, which is leveled and compacted.
Only now you can start laying paving slabs. The solution should consist of concrete and water in a ratio of 1:4. The solution should be very thick. Tiles begin to be laid from the corner. After laying, 4 tiles are removed and a mortar is laid in their place with a layer of 4 centimeters. We install paving slabs in place using spacers and a hammer.
After laying all the tiles and removing all the wooden spacers, it is necessary to fill the seams with sand. For the most dense filling with sand, the tile is poured with water. Even a well-made seam during operation must be periodically covered with sand.

Concrete pavement repair

We have already figured out the question of how to make a blind area with our own hands, but what to do with its breakdowns? If damage is found, repairs should be made as soon as possible to prevent the spread of structural failure. Repair should begin with determining the boundaries of the damaged area.

Several significant potholes can be combined into 1 damage. The damaged asphalt pavement is cut to the full depth with wedges and cleaned of dust. The edges, walls and bottom are lubricated with liquefied bitumen and poured with concrete. The new coating is laid a little higher than the old one, which will provide a better connection between the sections.

To repair peeling cracks and potholes, the following are used:

fine-grained concrete;
cement-sand mortars;
sealing pastes;
rubber-bitumen mastics.