The blind area is designed to protect the foundation from damage, which can result from contact with atmospheric moisture. Additionally, the blind area will protect the structure from the destructive effects of the roots of various plants. Many owners ignore the need for the device of this element absolutely in vain. The blind area can be made with your own hands, and thanks to this element, which is simple to erect, the service life of the structure will increase significantly.
Why do you need a blind area?
The blind area performs a number of important functions, including:
- ensuring reliable protection of the foundation of the house from the harmful effects of atmospheric moisture and other negative factors;
- diversion of any kind of water from the structure to the drainage system. In the surface of the blind area, special outlet gutters are arranged, due to which the risk of the base and basement getting wet is significantly reduced;
- improving the appearance of the building. Thanks to the blind area, the foundation will look more harmonious and complete;
- additional insulation of the foundation. Subject to the correct arrangement of all layers of the structure or the use of special heat-insulating materials, the soil close to the house will freeze much less;
- practicality. Quite often, the blind area is used as a convenient path around the building, along which you can move without harming the plants and other elements of the landscape of the site.
Thus, the blind area is a functional and aesthetic element that must necessarily be arranged around your home. Study the proposed instructions, and you can make a high-quality and reliable blind area with your own hands.
The structure under consideration consists of an overlying (upper) and an underlying (lower) layer. Due to the underlying layer, the surface is even. However, the base should not be 100% horizontal, but have some slope.
If concrete is used as the top layer, the bottom layer must be made horizontal. The slope will be created directly at the stage of concrete pouring. The slope will ensure fast and high-quality drainage of water from the facade of the building.
At the end of the work, a drainage groove is created along the outer edge of the perimeter of the blind area. The slope is usually kept at a level of 5 cm per 1 m of the width of the blind area.
The underlayment and overburden can be made from different materials. So, clay, crushed stone and gravel are suitable for arranging the lower layer.
Practice shows that it is best to use crushed clay as a base. This material initially has good waterproofing properties. The standard thickness of the lower layer is 25-30 cm. If the basis of the blind area is made of clay, it will be enough to equip a 15-20 cm layer of the substrate.
When using gravel or gravel, sand must be poured over the main part of the underlying layer. The thickness of a separate additional layer of sand should be 7-10 cm.
Use a hard and waterproof material for the cover layer. The most commonly used materials are concrete, natural stone, asphalt. Paving slabs and bricks are sometimes used.
Preparation for work
Before starting work, you need to decide on the main parameters of the future blind area. Set the correct width first. Most regulatory documents indicate that the blind area should be at least 60 cm wide. However, this is only the minimum recommended value. There are many additional important factors to consider before finally choosing the right width.
First of all, pay attention to the peculiarities of the eaves eaves of the roof of your house. The outer border of the blind area should be approximately 25-30 cm beyond the most protruding edge of the roof cornice.
At the stage of designing the blind area, one cannot but take into account the architectural and design features of the house. For example, if the site is decorated with all sorts of unusual design elements, the blind area can also be given an original look, competently and organically linking it with other elements of the landscape.
A very important parameter is the type of soil at the construction site. For example, if the house is on collapsible soil, the width of the blind area should be at least 90-100 cm. Experts recommend that the blind area be more than 1 m wide.Under such conditions, the structure in question will be able to simultaneously drain water and serve as a convenient path around the building.
It is important that the blind area is continuous. Any kind of break in the canvas can lead to a decrease in the protective functions of the blind area.
After determining the appropriate width, you will need to set the optimal slope value for the blind area. In order for the structure to effectively cope with the tasks of water drainage, the slope must be at least 2-5 degrees away from the house.
To determine the exact value of the slope, one must also take into account the climatic features characteristic of the location of the house, and the type of material used to equip the upper layer of the structure. For example, if the covering layer is made of paving slabs, the slope of the blind area can be slightly reduced compared to the same indicator for a gravel structure.
The slope can be created directly at the stage of laying the lower layer or during the installation of the top covering. This moment depends on what specific materials are used to equip the structure in question.
After determining the optimal system parameters, calculate the required amount of materials and assemble the required tools. At the stage of creating the underlying layer, you will need gravel and sand or clay.
The top layer of the blind area is most often made of concrete. If you also decide to make your choice in favor of this material, first prepare a concrete mixer or a container for preparing mortar, reinforcement and wire, several shovels, a level and other small accessories.
Step-by-step instructions for filling the blind area
The process of arranging the blind area will be considered on the example of a concrete structure. If you are a beginner, pay attention to this option, because in most moments it is easier to arrange in comparison with other existing types of blind area. Complete every step of the job and you have a reliable, durable and efficient design.
First step. Mark out the surrounding area. It is enough to measure the selected distance from the walls of the house, drive in pegs from any suitable material along the measured line and connect these pegs with a rope. Make sure the cue points are on the same line.
Second phase. Remove soil over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe blind area. The pit depth is selected individually, taking into account the type of system and the characteristics of the materials used. In most cases, the thickness of an ordinary concrete blind area is about 25 cm, excluding the front finish.
Stage three. Treat the plant roots at the bottom of the trench with special herbicides. Such processing will not allow the roots to germinate in the future and disrupt the structure of the blind area.
Fourth stage. Assemble the formwork. You can use an unedged board and wooden blocks for the props as starting materials. The thickness of the boards should be at least 2 cm. Install the boards along the outer edge of the trench.
Fifth stage. Compact the bottom of the trench and spread a 5 cm layer of clay on top of it. Thoroughly compact the clay, place a 10 cm layer of sand on top of it and tamp it down. For better compaction, sand should be spilled with water. Lay a layer of gravel on top of the sand.
Sixth stage. Lay the reinforcement rods on the prepared pillow. Maintain a step of 10-15 cm. As a result, you should get a reinforcing mesh. Tie the joints with steel wire. Thanks to the reinforcement, the structure will have higher strength and resistance to all kinds of loads.
Seventh stage. At the junction of the blind area with the building, make an expansion joint. A 1.5 cm wide joint will suffice. Fill the joint with sand and gravel mixture or bitumen.
Eighth stage. Pour concrete. Fill with one horizontal layer. Install transverse wooden battens approximately every 230-250 cm. Thanks to them, expansion joints will be created, which are necessary for the normal operation of the blind area. Select battens such that the top is flush with the surface of the concrete structure. The slats should be pre-treated with an antiseptic.
Ninth stage. Level the concrete carefully and create the required slope until the mixture hardens.
Stage ten. Cover the fill with wet burlap. As it dries, the fabric will need to be re-wetted with water. This will prevent the concrete from cracking.
After about 3-4 weeks, the concrete will completely dry and gain the required strength. If you wish, you can lay porcelain stoneware, paving slabs or other suitable material on the dried blind area.
Thus, there is nothing difficult in self-erecting a blind area. All costs are reduced to the cost of purchasing building materials. Follow the instructions and you can do everything as good as a professional builder.
Happy work!
Video - Do-it-yourself blind area step by step instructions
A reliable, time-tested way to protect the foundation from the effects of surface water is the construction of a concrete blind area around the house. The undoubted advantage of the concrete blind area is its low cost and ease of manufacture.
No material can guarantee 100% moisture protection, which is provided by a concrete blind area with an integral coating (without arranging a multi-tiered "pie"). The condition of the foundation is directly reflected in the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs capital protection.
This is the main task of the blind area - to protect the foundation and basement of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the structure a finished appearance.
Let's consider step by step how to correctly make a blind area around the house of concrete with your own hands. We propose to break down all the stages of the arrangement into theoretical and applied.
- In the first part, we will analyze what you need to know and prepare before starting work.
- In the second, how to prepare the bed and properly fill the concrete blind area.
Requirements for the blind area and the rules for its construction
- concrete blind area width, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than the overhang of the roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and plays the role of a path around the house;
- length... Since the foundation needs protection around the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely encircle the structure. The only exception can be the installation site of the concrete porch;
- depth or level of the blind area should not exceed half of the estimated depth of soil freezing inherent in a particular region. This parameter can be viewed in the table or request information in the architecture department at the location of the object.
The ability of the concrete blind area to move with the soil gives it its functions. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to water drainage, which is not enough to protect the foundation.
Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the soil.
- concrete blind area thickness... The minimum thickness of the surface layer of 70-100 mm is justified. If an increased operational load is planned, for example, the movement of a car, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;
- blind area slope... SNiP III-10-75 recommends what slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed to the side opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on regional rainfall and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken equal to 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;
- border... In the case of a blind area, a curb is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the owner of the house and his financial capabilities. However, if in the immediate vicinity of the blind area bushes are planted - "root aggressors" (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that are distinguished by a powerful surface root system (poplar, sycamore), then the installation of a limiter is required;
- plinth height... The standards establish a minimum basement height of 500 mm for a rigid type of blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft one. Recall that the concrete blind area around the house is of the rigid type;
- height of the blind area from ground level... It is desirable that the blind area is 50 mm higher above the ground level. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate at the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. In winter, it is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, the destruction of the structure.
- construction of a blind area made of concrete has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.
Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the construction of the concrete foundation area.
How to make a blind area of \u200b\u200bconcrete around the house
Material preparation:
- concrete for the blind area. Grade is an indicator of the quality of concrete, its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement in concrete. The class of concrete ranges from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of the concrete. So, class B 15, indicates that a cube of concrete pouring 15x15x15 cm in size is able to withstand a pressure of 15 MPa.
What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, cement grade M 200 (class B15) is used.
The parameters (properties) of concrete, depending on the brand, are shown in the table.
- sand. Which one do you need? For the device of the bottom layer of the pillow, river or quarry sand is suitable. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;
- crushed stone (gravel). For the blind area, crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable;
- clay or geotexile for the installation of a hydraulic lock. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete removes water well;
- iron cement.
The composition of the concrete solution for the blind area
If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can knead it yourself. To do this, you need to prepare:
- cement for the blind area. You should know that the grade of concrete is determined by the grade of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, M400 Portland cement is used. The cement must be fresh; with every month of storage, it loses 5% of its properties. It is easy to check the freshness, it is enough to squeeze a little cement in your fist, if it shrinks into a lump - its shelf life is running out, if it crumbles freely, you can work with it;
Note. Which cement is best for the blind area? Naturally fresh and high grade. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete solution.
- sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take sifted and washed from impurities and soil;
- crushed stone. It is advisable to use crushed stone of fraction 5-10 mm. Moreover, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;
- water. Should be at room temperature;
- additives. Needed in order to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Liquid glass is often used as an additive.
From the tools you will need a concrete mixer or a container for mixing, a shovel, a bucket (it is better to take a plastic one, it is easier to wash it), a measuring container (for water), a manual ramming log or a vibrating plate.
Preparation of concrete solution for the blind area
In practice, the solution for the blind area is prepared in portions, after all the preparatory work has been completed. We will give a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.
The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.
Note. Components are measured by weight only.
The proportions of the solution for the blind area
Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average equal to 1500 kg.
The proportions will differ depending on the grade of concrete. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for obtaining concrete of a certain grade.
The concrete mix is \u200b\u200bvery demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because removes cement flour into the upper layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the fortress is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that the water should be approximately half of the amount of cement. More accurate data are contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W / C) for concrete).
The order in which the components are fed into the solution also matters. Cement is poured into a mixing container or concrete mixer first and water is poured. By mixing, the so-called cement milk is obtained. Further, the remaining components are added to it. First, sand is poured in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).
Note. Professionals advise to maintain an interval of 5 minutes. between feeding components. Thus, the mixture mixes better.
The technology of installing a blind area made of concrete with insulation
Step-by-step instruction:
Preparation of the base for the blind area... For this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. Using a continuous herbicide will eliminate activity under the substrate. For example, Agrokiller or Tornado drugs.
Council. Considering that the blind area should exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the border of the blind area.
Markup... To do this, we pull the rope over the stakes hammered in the corners. To avoid rope sagging, intermediate stakes should be installed (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).
Council. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Craftsmen install additional beacons (pull the rope) on the basement of the house. Fastening is done every 1-1.5 meters.
Hydraulic lock device... For this, oily clay is laid in a layer of 100-150 mm or the bottom is covered with geotextile (roofing felt, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Pay attention so that the film does not break, it is better to pour a layer of sand 50-100 mm at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured over the film. The sand is equalized, moistened and rammed. In the case of a hydraulic lock made of clay, there is only one sand layer. When laying the film, you should avoid its tension. It must be able to move freely with the ground.
Note. Masters advise to make high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with rubble or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and fill it with rubble. This will increase the rate of water drainage.
It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude results in the fact that the water passing through the expansion joint goes directly under the foundation, and when freezing leads to an increase in pressure on it.
Crushed stone filling... The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and rammed. Since crushed stone is difficult to tamp, some recommend using a special grate for laying it, which is used in landscape design for the construction of gravel paths. Immediately, we note that this will increase the cost of the blind area without special need.
Sand filling.
Laying of pipes of communications... To do this, a depression is made in the sand for pipes and storm drains.
Insulation of the blind area... Expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam is laid on the compacted sand, which is filled with crushed stone and communications. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sandy pillow.
Council. You can eliminate cold bridges by laying the insulation in two layers with an offset.
Reinforcement of the concrete blind area... It is carried out by laying a reinforcing mesh with cells of 50x50 or 100x100 mm, or the reinforcement cage is knitted.
Council. The mesh netting is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.
If insulation is not expected, the reinforcement mesh is laid directly on the crushed stone to a height of 20-30 mm. Which will contribute to better concrete distribution.
Formwork device... Planks or plywood are installed strictly according to the level. To neutralize the bursting force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes, which are installed on the outside of it. During installation, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all the seams will be visible after dismantling. In this case, the blind area will look ugly. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to make sure that the internal seams are invisible.
Expansion joint device... To do this, we install wooden slats, boards (on the edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or washed out. The recommended distance between expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally in the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are set according to the level taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because when pouring concrete, they are guided by. As an alternative to wood, Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 rubles / m) or a fluid-swelling elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A / B, can be used.
How to seal the seams in the blind area?
According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints after the first winter had cracks. Many people believe that wood swells and allows moisture to pass through. The gaps formed can be closed with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles / piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles / piece).
Pouring the concrete blind area. When pouring concrete, care must be taken that no air pockets are formed, and the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that no bumps and depressions appear when pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to make the entire blind area at a time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.
Council. When pouring the blind area, you can apply a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayonet. For this, the concrete is "pierced" with a rod, and the solution fills the entire space.
How to properly fill the concrete blind area around the house - video
Protection of the concrete blind area from destruction
Many people are interested in how to cover the concrete blind area around the house. Indeed, without fail, after pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, exposure to moisture, rain, snow. Let's consider how and what is the best way to do it.
Ways to protect the foundation blind area:
Reinforcement of the concrete blind area around the house
How to iron a blind area with your own hands?
- Dry method of ironing - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm), followed by grouting. Dry cement will bond to the concrete and increase its ability to withstand water.
- The wet method of ironing - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete is dry), you need to walk on the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1: 1) with the addition of lime dough (10% of the volume of the mixture).
Covering the blind area with a primer
For this, deep penetration primers such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles) are suitable. Priming solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, tiling or painting. If this is not in the plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZH-11 (195 rubles / 5 l). Concrete hardeners are gaining popularity, such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles / 5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles / 10 l), Protexil (3 600 rubles / 20 l) or Ashford Formula (120 $ / 10 l).
Protection of the blind area with liquid glass
A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budgetary option for a protective composition (primer, water repellent) that provides a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a ratio (ratio) of 1: 1: 1.
Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel
The enamel must meet certain parameters for frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, environmental friendliness. Polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles / kg) has proven itself well.
Facing the blind area with tiles, stone
Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, sidewalk), pebbles or natural stone on top of the concrete blind area. In this case, concrete acts as a binder solution.
- it is advisable to install a storm drain near the blind area, which will drain the flowing water and exclude the silting of the site;
- to ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, cover the blind area with a film. So, the evaporated moisture will linger on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with a film, it can be periodically moistened. The time to complete solidification with a blind area of \u200b\u200b100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;
- after the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. You should be careful here, because Removing the blind area can damage the edges of the blind area.
Such a procedure for performing work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees long-term full-fledged functioning of the concrete blind area.
DIY repair of a concrete blind area around the house
The most common problems include:
The appearance of cracks in the blind area
How to repair cracks in the blind area?
Elimination depends on the depth of damage (cracks, crevices, concrete breaks):
- no more than 1 mm... Self-healing is used. Such a crack is not dangerous and is usually rubbed out from friction during walking;
- no more than 3 mm... Assumes the use of "cement paste". Shallow cracks can be repaired (filled) with a slurry of cement (1 part cement to 1 part water);
- 3-30 mm... Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant such as the above-mentioned TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. The crack can be repaired with freshly prepared concrete mortar. However, before doing this, the crack must be widened. In section, it should resemble a cone. Apply a primer over the entire crack area. Any one, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles / 10 l), will do. Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydro-seal, a special solution based on cement, which hardens in 15 minutes. An example is the putty Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel (410 rubles 5kg)
- crack depth greater than half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a split in the concrete and refers to significant damage. It can only be removed by expansion followed by pouring new concrete.
Stratification of the blind area over the entire area
In the language of masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (delamination). Several factors can cause this phenomenon. For example, uneven concrete hardening happens if you pour concrete solution on a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make a large thickness of the blind area. Increased air content in the concrete mix. Excess of crushed stone parts in the concrete composition.
What to do if the concrete blind area is crumbling?
If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with "cement paste" or a compound that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).
If the damage has reached a significant scale, then drastic measures must be taken:
- define the boundaries of damage to prevent its spread;
- cut out some of the concrete;
- cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
- apply a new layer of solution;
- cover with foil until completely dry.
If you start, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help to extend the life of the blind area and save on alteration and reconstruction.
The cost of work on the construction of a concrete blind area without material
And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to the masters, then the estimate should contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data at the end of 2015)
| Service - work on the blind area of \u200b\u200ba private house | Do-it-yourself work | The cost of the work of the master per sq. |
| Material price | We do not take into account, because the cost will be the same | |
| Removing the old blind area (dismantling) | 0 | 65 |
| Marking and excavation (depth 600 mm.) | 0 | 300 |
| Clay hydraulic lock device | 0 | 100 |
| Laying films or geotextiles | 0 | 40 |
| Backfilling of the sand layer + ramming (5 mm.) | 0 | 80 |
| Formation of a crushed stone layer (100 mm) | 0 | 80 |
| Installation of a stormwater receiver | 0 | 250 |
| Pipe laying (per lm) | 0 | 50 |
| Concrete blind area device (ready-mixed concrete) | 0 | 300 |
| Concrete blind area device (concrete mixing) | 0 | 650 |
| Total | Saving | About 1200-1400 rubles |
At the same time, keep in mind that it is unlikely that it will be possible to negotiate a significant discount here. After all, this price does not include the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the manufacture of a concrete blind area for 1 m.
Conclusion
Agree, a good incentive to make a blind area of \u200b\u200bconcrete with your own hands. Moreover, from the given instructions it is clear that this work does not require a special tool, any special materials, only the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.
Greetings, friends.
Alexander Alexandrov is in touch with you.
Today I will tell you how do it yourself correctly.
When building a private house, various nuances should be taken into account. Including - prevention of flooding of the foundation with rainwater. The constant flow of water under the foundation can lead to very undesirable consequences. The action of atmospheric moisture on the concrete of the foundation leads to cracks and other damage. The roots of plants begin to grow into these cracks and produce a destructive effect on the foundation. Sometimes, when building a building, for some reason, builders forget the existence of such a problem, and the owner of the house has to solve it himself. Some owners do not realize the need to protect the foundation of the building, and this significantly reduces the operational life of the dwelling.
In order to prevent water from flowing under the foundation, a blind area is made - a special strengthening of the perimeter of the structure. If you have experience in construction work, this element of the construction of a house can be done independently, thereby saving on the services of specialists.
So, how to make a blind area yourself?
Why is a blind area needed
The blind area is designed to carry out the following important functions:
- protection of the foundation of the structure from such destructive factors as moisture, plant roots and so on;
- drainage of rain or melt water from the walls of the house into the drainage system, for which the blind area is equipped - this design reduces the risk of dampness of the foundation;
- increasing the aesthetics of the appearance of the house, giving it harmony and completeness;
- reduction of heat losses in the cold season.
How is the blind area
The basis of the blind area is the underlying layer, on top of which the covering layer is applied. Often, different materials are used to create them. To ensure drainage from the walls of the structure, the surface of the blind area should have a slight slope.
The cover layer is often made of concrete.
In this case, the surface of the base layer must be horizontal, while the slope of the surface of the cover layer is created when the concrete is poured. The standard slope is five centimeters by one meter.
The underlying layer is most often made of clay, crushed stone or gravel. The most practical material is crumpled clay due to its poor water permeability. Typically, the underlying layer is made with a thickness of 0.25 to 0.3 meters. When using clay, sufficient thickness for the sub-base will be from 0.15 to 0.2 meters.
If crushed stone or gravel is used to create the underlying layer, then a layer of sand with a thickness of 0.07 to 0.1 meters should lie between it and the covering layer.
The covering layer is made of durable and waterproof material - natural stone, asphalt, concrete. In some cases, brick or sidewalk tiles are used for this.
Preparation for work
The first step in preparation is to establish the main parameters of the future design. The standard minimum width of the blind area is 0.6 meters. However, when designing it, the following factors must be taken into account, including those related to the peculiarities of the architecture and design of the building:
- The position of the edge of the eaves of the roof of the house: the edge of the blind area should protrude beyond this edge by at least 0.25-0.3 meters. This will prevent water from flowing from the roof to the ground in the absence of a drain or problems with it.
- The compatibility of the blind area with the general design of the building and the surrounding landscape.
- Features of the soil around the building. So, if the house is surrounded by subsiding soil, then the minimum recommended width of the blind area is one meter. This size provides the convenience of using the blind area as a track.
- Features of the climate of the area in which the house is located.
- Materials that are supposed to be used for the construction of the blind area. So, if you make a covering layer of paving slabs, then the slope can be made smaller than in the case of using crushed stone.
After establishing an acceptable value for the width of the blind area in this situation, it is necessary to determine the angle of its inclination. To ensure effective drainage, this angle must be between two and five degrees.
The slope of the blind area can be created both during the laying of the underlying layer, and during the installation of the external covering. The choice of one or another approach is determined by the materials used.
Materials and tools
The next step in preparing the construction of the blind area is to calculate the required amount of materials and select the right tools. To lay the bottom layer, you need crushed stone, sand or clay.
The most common overlay material is concrete. If it is intended to use it in the construction of the blind area, then the following tools and additional materials will be needed:
- concrete mixer or trough for mixing cement mortar;
- wire;
- reinforcing bars;
- bayonet shovels for digging soil and shovels for working with mortar;
- ruler or tape measure;
- level.
Do-it-yourself blind area
- Markup
The first step in building a blind area is to mark the area in front of the building. To do this, you need to drive pegs along the perimeter of the building into the ground at the required distance from the wall and connect them with twine.
2. Digging a trench for a blind area
After this operation, you need to dig a trench between the stretched string and the wall of the house, the depth of which will be determined by the selected material. Typically, the thickness of the concrete blind area is 0.25 meters. However, the thickness of the surface finish is not considered.
After the trench under the blind area is ready, it is necessary to prevent unwanted growth of plants in it, the roots of which may have a damaging effect on the structure in the future. For this, the soil is treated in the trench and near it with special herbicides. If trees grow not far from the future blind area, their roots should be chopped down.
You can also lay geotextiles, but this is more expensive.
Digging a trench is not always a necessary procedure. If the soil around the house is soft enough, it will be sufficient to compact it to the appropriate depth.
3. Installation of formwork
The next step is to assemble the formwork. For this, you can use uncut boards with a thickness of at least 20 millimeters. Boards are installed along the outer edge of the pit. Wooden bars can be used as props.
4. Creating an underlay
After installing the formwork, it is necessary to tamp the bottom of the trench and fill it with clay so that the layer thickness is 50 millimeters. The clay must be compacted tightly, and then a sand layer 100 millimeters thick is poured onto it, which should also be compacted. For the compaction of the sand layer to be of high quality, the sand should be moistened. The final step of this stage of work is the laying of crushed stone on top of the sand layer.
Tamping the soil at the bottom of the pit is a necessary step in the construction of the blind area. If this is not done, then the blind area in the future may sag under its own weight. In order to completely exclude water seepage through the blind area, the clay layer can be separated from the subsequent layers with a waterproofing material, for example, a film of polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene.
5. Installation of reinforcing mesh
After the preparation of the cushion is completed, reinforcement is laid on the surface of the crushed stone layer so that a reinforcing mesh is obtained. In this case, the distance between the rods should be from 100 to 150 millimeters. The intersection of the rods must be tied with steel wire. The presence of a reinforcing mesh ensures the durability of the blind area and its ability to withstand various loads.
Instead of reinforcing rods, you can use a ready-made reinforcing mesh.
IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW
An important nuance during reinforcement is to ensure complete enveloping of the reinforcement with cement mortar. To do this, you can lay the mesh on wooden blocks, which are gradually removed during the concreting process.
6. Creating an expansion joint
Where the blind area is in contact with the building wall, an expansion joint should be created, the width of which should be approximately 15 millimeters. Sand mixed with gravel or bitumen is used to fill the joint space.
To create a heat-insulating layer between the blind area and the wall of the house, you can also use extruded polystyrene foam plates or polystyrene foam. It is important to ensure that the insulation plates fit snugly to each other.
7. Pouring concrete
The next stage of work is the pouring of concrete mortar. To do this, you first need to lay wood slats across the trench so that the distance between them is 2.3-2.5 meters. The purpose of these slats is to create expansion joints that will ensure the normal performance of the structure. The width of the battens should be such that their edges coincide with the level of the concrete layer surface. To prevent the destruction of the laths by bacteria and fungus, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic solution and covered with a layer of bitumen.
A standard concrete solution is prepared from cement (one part), sand (two parts) and fine gravel (three parts). It is advisable to use river or sea sand. If ordinary sand from a quarry is used, then first you need to flush it to remove various impurities.
Sand washing is done twice or three times. For this, you can use a concrete mixer. During washing, sand is poured into a concrete mixer, filled with water and mixed for several minutes. After that, the concrete mixer turns off and the water is drained. If this procedure is neglected, then in the future it is possible that the blind area will be washed out by water.
The concrete is poured in one layer at once. Otherwise, cracks may appear between the areas poured at different times in the future. Therefore, even if it is impossible to pour all the concrete within one day for some reason, then the next day the work should be completely completed.
To prevent the formation of cracks and defects in the future, it is important to ensure a high quality slurry. Therefore, it is best to cook it in a concrete mixer.
If during the construction of the formwork hot weather was established, then the best time to carry out the work is early morning or evening.
8. Leveling the concrete surface
After the concrete layer is poured and has not yet hardened, its surface must be leveled and the necessary slope created. For this procedure, a rule applies. If this tool is not available, you can use a regular wooden strip with a smooth and even surface. To ensure evenness, smoothness and correct inclination of the surface, special beacons should be used as reference points.
At the end of the work to create the covering layer, the concrete surface must be covered with sackcloth moistened with water. This fabric must be regularly moistened to prevent it from drying out. This will ensure the prevention of cracks in the concrete as it gradually hardens.
9. Finishing and decorative works
The concrete hardening process lasts from two to three weeks. After this time period has passed, and the concrete has acquired the necessary strength, you can remove the formwork and start finishing and decorating its surface. To do this, you can use sheets of porcelain stoneware, or something else.
Do-it-yourself blind area at home - video
Well that's all, friends.
Following these step-by-step instructions, you can completely make a blind area with your own hands and spend only on building materials.
The blind area with your own hands can be easily equipped. It is designed to protect the foundation from atmospheric precipitation under its foundation, as well as water that forms after the snow melts. In some regions, it is required in order to exclude the interaction of materials with high groundwater. If there is a desire to extend the life of the building, then it is important to provide the building with the mentioned element.
Features of the blind area
Do-it-yourself blind area can be made of wood, concrete, brick, asphalt, tiles, reinforced concrete slabs or cobblestones. Whichever design is chosen, it will have two layers, the first of which is a coating, while the second is a special lining layer made of fine gravel, sand, clay or prancing. It is recommended to build this part of the house together with the foundation. However, if the building was purchased, but it turned out to be deprived of a blind area, it can be completed. If you build a blind area with your own hands, the instruction will definitely come in handy. The main rule in this case is that it should be 25 cm larger than the overhang of the cornice. Ultimately, you must equip an element with a width of 100 cm.The wider this component is, the better it will drain water. The standard slope is 3 to 7 degrees. In parallel, a storm outlet is being built, which is a groove located along the perimeter.
Determination of the boundary and preparation of the base
If you build a blind area with your own hands, then first you need to determine the border. It is recommended to remove the roots of plants under the future structure before this; this can be done with a bayonet shovel. She needs to remove the top layer of soil so that the plants cannot destroy the blind area. The soil can be additionally treated with a herbicide. Limiting boards must be installed around the perimeter to prevent the solution from leaking out. Now the prepared place must be covered with sand, tamped well and filled with water. The next layer will be broken bricks or rubble. All this needs to be compacted with a vibrating machine.
Heat and waterproofing
If you build a blind area with your own hands near a house that has a basement or cellar, then it is necessary to make insulation. It is recommended to use penoplex, expanded polystyrene or foam glass as materials for this. It is necessary to carry out work in such a way that an air gap remains under the blind area, its thickness should be 15 cm. Roofing material or PVC film can be used as waterproofing.
Providing temperature dissipation
When building a blind area at home with your own hands, it is imperative to install incisions; for this, storm trays or flat slate are perfect. Another important point is the need to leave expansion joints in the area where the walls join the blind area. For this, you can use a sealant, bitumen or roofing material. The second option should be laid in two layers.
Working with concrete
At the next stage, you can prepare and pour the solution, it is preferable to use the M300 brand, thanks to which it will be possible to obtain a strong and reliable blind area. Concrete can be made by yourself, for this you should use sand, cement, crushed stone and water in a ratio of 3: 1: 4: 1/2. In a concrete mixer, it is necessary to mix cement with water, this should be done until a glue-like mixture is formed. Next, add crushed stone and sand. The concrete can be considered ready when the mass becomes homogeneous.
Ironing
If you are thinking about how to make a blind area at home with your own hands, then it is important to make iron. To do this, 15 minutes after pouring the concrete, it is necessary to sprinkle the surface with a dry cement mortar, which is smoothed with a spatula. This will eliminate the possibility of moisture penetration inside. In this case, the surface itself will be smooth and aesthetic in appearance. However, if after it is supposed to lay tiles, then this stage must be skipped.
The choice of the design of the blind area
You can make a blind area with your own hands in a short time using ready-made concrete slabs. They will need to be laid on a previously prepared surface, and then filled with liquid bitumen. Drainage profiled membranes, which are laid on the ground under a layer of sand, have become increasingly popular among consumers. Any covering can be laid on top.
Features of the concrete blind area
Despite the emergence of more and more options for the described design, consumers most often choose concrete options. Such systems are located on clay, which is 15 cm thick. If you have to work with heaving soil, you can use an additional layer of sand, its thickness should be equal to 8 centimeters. If you use only concrete for work, then the slab will quickly collapse. In this case, it is necessary to make expansion joints, they are located every three meters. For this you need to use wooden slats, which are pre-coated with bitumen. They need to be installed on the edge, concrete is placed between them. Another option for organizing seams is to use a reinforcing mesh, which is laid with a large overlap. If the blind area of \u200b\u200bthe house is equipped with their own hands, then when it is erected, the likelihood of water absorption by the method of filling in cement can be excluded. In the next step, the surface is covered with a wet cloth and everything is left in this state for 10 days. Periodically, the system needs to be watered with water. If you still cannot decide which type of blind area to use, then the use of concrete is not considered the best option. This is due to the fact that this material is consumed when carrying out such work in a very impressive amount. Moreover, the process will be very time consuming. The only plus is that it will be possible to walk on the surface of the structure.
Soft blind area
If you are building a blind area with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions presented in the article will eliminate many mistakes. The concrete variety is only suitable for non-porous soils. For troubled soils, it is preferable to use a soft blind area. To do this, you need to lay clay around the foundation under some slope. Waterproofing is laid on top, which can be a film or glass insulation. The density of the former should be approximately 250-300 microns. The waterproofing must be backfilled with clay again, providing a layer of 1-10 cm. Fine gravel is indicated directly along them.
Blind area rubemastom
If you are going to fit the blind area around the house with your own hands, then you can use a rubemast. To begin with, formwork is installed, for which you should use an edged board. The space inside is covered with sand. The trench should initially be tamped horizontally, while the sand is laid with a slight slope. It will need to be closed with rubemast, bending the excess onto the wall surface. A kind of trough needs to be filled with ASG to the upper edge of the formwork. Next, paving stones are mounted, which provides the ability to move on the surface.
Use of geotextiles
Do-it-yourself blind area, the step-by-step instructions of which are presented in the article, can be equipped with geotextiles, which are used to exclude weeds. To begin with, you should carry out the markup, as well as dig a trench at the required slope. Further, geotextiles are covered, the plus of which is that it allows water to pass through, but does not allow weeds to germinate. It can be used for 20 years. It is necessary to roll out the material with some overlap on the foundation. The first layer of crushed stone should be backfilled using a fraction of 10 to 20. It is laid on geotextiles, the surface must be leveled with a rake. Next, a curb is prepared, the height of which is 20 cm. It must be laid on a sand cushion, for this, river sand should be poured on the edge of the blind area. The inside of the trench should be covered with rubble, the layer of which is 10 centimeters.
Finnish blind area
Before making a blind area around the house with your own hands, you need to think about what technology will be used for this. Experts recommend using a drain pipe during work. This element should be laid along the perimeter of the foundation, and then covered with gravel. It is important to provide the pipe with holes. Styrofoam is laid on top, it is important to provide an overlap, after which everything must be covered with soil. The pipe should be connected to drainage wells. At a distance of 40 cm from the foundation, rubble should be poured, and beautiful pebbles on top. Before making a blind area around the house with your own hands, it is important to think about its practicality. Such a system will effectively drain water, and the foundation will not freeze, while cracks will not form on the system itself.
After the completion of the construction of the house, it is imperative to install the blind area. It will protect the foundation from soaking and cracking, and will significantly extend the life of the building. The design is quite simple and therefore the blind area can be done by hand - step-by-step instructions and recommendations will help you go through all the installation stages without errors.
The appearance of the blind area
Device blind area around the house
The device of the blind area around the house is quite simple and consists of two main elements: a substrate and a coating. The main role of the underlay is to create an even and solid base for laying the sheeting. Usually, two layers of clay or sand and crushed stone act as a substrate. The use of clay is good in that it is capable of performing a waterproofing function and does not allow moisture to pass through itself, but for this it will need to be well laid and to achieve a uniform layer. Sand is easier to use, as it can easily smooth out any irregularities in the soil surface.
Simplified design of the blind area
Any suitable material can be used as a coating that has the following properties:
- They are strong enough to withstand the expected mechanical stress.
- They have high quality waterproofing properties.
- Resistant to sudden changes in temperature.
- Thanks to the smooth surface, they are able to efficiently remove moisture from the foundation.
Therefore, concrete, asphalt, stone or tile coatings are mainly used for blind areas.
How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands? We will tell you about competent design and installation in a special publication of our portal.
Photo blind areas around the house: the main types of structures
When designing a photo, blind areas around houses will greatly simplify their choice. There are such types of structures:
- Hard. They are structures based on hard coatings, which retain their shape under load without deformation. They are usually made of concrete or asphalt. Their service life is usually compared with the duration of the building's operation. At the cost of bookmarking, rigid structures will cost more than others, since they require mandatory insulation and waterproofing. Required to install the presence of soil of medium or high density.
Rigid blind area scheme
Rigid design appearance
- Soft. They are distinguished by simple installation technology and minimal requirements for operation. In fact, it consists of several layers of bulk materials. Requires minimal cost and physical effort to install. The service life is on average 5-7 years. They can fit on any type of soil, including loose ones. They are mainly used for temporary purposes, since their appearance is not entirely aesthetic and is unlikely to fit into the design of the building facade.
Soft blind area scheme
Appearance of soft construction
- Semi-rigid. They represent a kind of compromise between hard and soft structures in terms of financial and physical costs. The outer layer is usually laid out with tiles, stone or reinforced concrete slabs. The service life can be up to several decades. They have excellent maintainability, since part of the structure can be replaced or shifted without any problems. However, they are limited to use in areas with a high location of groundwater, on soils with a great depth of freezing and on heaving soils. The cost of installation work will be cheaper than the hard ones, but at the same time the highest quality aesthetic appearance will be achieved.
Semi-rigid blind area scheme
Semi-rigid design
Determination of the parameters of the blind area
In order to understand how to correctly make blind areas around houses, it is necessary to correctly select its technical parameters. One of them is width. It is determined by the current building codes and regulations, which say that it should be 20 cm longer than the most protruding part of the roof slope. Usually this size is counted from the gutters. The width of the blind area around the house is determined based on the selected type of material, the density of the soil on the site and the magnitude of the expected loads of a variable and static nature. In most cases, the width of the structure for private houses is at least 1 m.
Another parameter is the degree of penetration of the structure into the ground. It is mainly influenced by the level of soil freezing. In regions where there is a significant decrease in air temperature, such a property of soils as heaving, which can damage it literally in a year without the possibility of restoration, has a significant effect on the structure. Therefore, the level of the fill must provide sufficient strength so that it effectively resists heaving and does not deform. The minimum depth is at least 10 cm, including the layer of sand and gravel cushion. If constant loads are assumed, then it is recommended to increase the thickness to 15-20 cm.
Sketch of the blind area with dimensions
For high-quality drainage of sediments, the surface must have a certain slope. The value of the angle to the horizontal, on the one hand, is influenced by the amount of precipitation in a particular region, and on the other, by the convenience of using the structure as a walkway or for other purposes. The optimal value is 2-3 °.
In order to prevent flooding of the structure, it is recommended to make it 5 cm higher from the ground surface. If there are trees or shrubs near the house, you will need to uproot them at a distance of about 1.5 m from the house.
Attention! You can protect the structure from destruction by the roots of trees or any plants by installing a curb.
Preparatory work
Preparation for installation is carried out in several stages:
- Territory marking.
- Excavation works.
- Laying the underlayment.
We mark the territory for the installation of a blind area
With the help of pegs around the perimeter of the house, it is necessary to mark out. To do this, measure a distance of 1 m from the walls with a tape measure and drive wooden pegs in the corners to a depth of 0.5 m so that it is possible to carry out excavation work without displacing them. We pull the rope onto them.
Useful information! If the building has a large area, it is recommended to install additional pegs along the walls every 2.5-3 m.
Layout of the site for the blind area
Excavation stage
Using a shovel, it is necessary to dig a trench along the markings made. The depth is determined by the type of structure chosen, climatic conditions and soil composition. The layer should be removed evenly with a slope of 2-3 ° from the building. This can be done quite easily by setting the digging depth along the building and along the marking line.
Since the main foundation and the construction of the blind area will have different coefficients of thermal expansion, it is recommended to create a thermal gap between them of 1-2 mm. To do this, after stopping the digging along the wall, you need to lay a damping layer based on a polyurethane tape.
The bottom of the trench should be carefully tamped with a special tool, which is a steel rod with a flat sheet welded on at the lower end. If such a device is not at hand, then you can use a regular log.
Laying the pillow under the blind area
At the bottom of the prepared trench, it is necessary to lay waterproofing and fill up a layer of sand 10-20 cm thick, depending on the type of construction and depth of the trench, with careful tamping and leveling. For the convenience of work, it is recommended to spill the layer abundantly with water in order to maximize its compaction. However, you will need to wait for the pillow to dry before placing the outer layer.
Laying waterproofing, followed by backfilling and compaction of sand
On top of the sand, it is necessary to fill in gravel with a grain size of up to 5 cm, and level the top layer with crushed stone with a grain size of up to 5 mm. This will save building material on the outer layer due to the absence of the need to fill the formed pores.
How to make a blind area around the house?
The installation process depends on the type of construction and the selected material. For example, when laying a soft structure, no additional work will be required, but when installing a rigid one, you will need to lay several waterproofing layers. How to carry out the installation correctly will be described in the following subsections.
Installation of a rigid blind area
It is recommended to install a rigid structure on a heat and waterproof layer, which will significantly extend the life of the structure. For these purposes, it is recommended to use heat-insulating materials that are highly resistant to moisture and have increased strength under significant mechanical stress. An example would be expanded polystyrene or foam boards.
Installation of formwork and waterproofing
To understand the technology of pouring the blind area around the house of concrete, how to make the formwork and what sequence of actions to follow, you need to read the step-by-step instructions. It looks like this:
- We install the first slab from the corner of the building along the wall, checking the correct position using the building level.
- We fix the insulation to a suitable type of fastening, pressing it tightly against the wall.
- We install the next one end-to-end to the first slab with a minimum gap.
- We fix the slab, and carefully seal the joint with construction foam.
- In the same way, we lay the entire perimeter of the walls with heat-insulating material.
Attention! If the blind area is installed in the northern regions, then it is recommended to lay two layers of insulation with bandaging the joints of the two layers. This will avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Installation of expanded polystyrene plates
Before pouring concrete into the formwork, it is necessary to lay the reinforcing mesh. For these purposes, ready-made meshes with a rod diameter of 8-10 mm and a cell size of 10-15 cm are used. It is important to lay in such a way that the steel rods are in a layer of concrete. For this it is necessary to use special plastic props.
It is recommended to fill the structure with concrete mortar of M400 grade or higher, and at a time, so that the structure gains maximum strength. Therefore, in advance you need to calculate the approximate volume and order the mortar in the required amount at the cement plant.
When pouring, it is important to create an even layer, for which you gently smooth the concrete over the surface with a shovel or mop. Additionally, the solution must be stirred to remove air bubbles from the layer. After the pasting of the layer to the level of the edges of the formwork, it is necessary to level the surface as a rule. The sides of the formwork will serve as guides.
At the final stage, the surface of the blind area must be sprinkled with a thin layer of cement. To ensure ideal conditions for concrete hardening, it will be necessary to cover the entire upper part with a layer of polyethylene. Every day it is necessary to moisten the surface with water. Curing time is 28 days, depending on the temperature and humidity of the environment.
Installation of a rigid blind area completed
Installation of a soft blind area
A soft blind area around the houses is laid on a waterproofing layer laid over a sand cushion. It is recommended to use rubemast as an insulating material, which has an increased service life. Laying is done with an overlap of 10-15 cm not only along the main surface, but also on the walls of the main building. The joint joints are sealed with bitumen under the heating of the burner.
Laying of rubble blind area completed
On top of the waterproofing, a 10 cm layer of dry mixture of sand and gravel should be poured in equal proportions. Then the surface should be carefully tamped and leveled. In this case, it is imperative to maintain the angle of inclination. On top of the embankment, another layer of crushed stone with a grain size of no more than 5 mm is laid and also compacted.
DIY semi-rigid blind area: step by step instructions
Is it realistic to create a semi-rigid structure on your own in the absence of suitable experience? The task is quite solvable and a reliable blind area can be created with your own hands - step-by-step instructions will allow you to go through all the stages without errors. It is installed directly on a prepared sand-crushed stone cushion, on top of which a layer of sand 8-10 cm thick is additionally poured. In this case, the layout can be absolutely any and not limited to anything. The main requirement is to create butt joints with minimum thickness.
The laying technology looks like this step by step:
- The first tile is placed on the leveled base.
- With the help of a mallet, its surface is gently tapped to ensure reliable fixation.
Laying tiles with leveling
- It is imperative to control the angle of inclination with a level in order to avoid skewing.
- The next tile is placed end-to-end with the previous one.
- For alignment, it is necessary to lay a wooden board on the surface of the tiles and, by tapping, achieve their correct position.
- If there is a subsidence of one of the corners of the tile, then you need to add a little sand and repeat the alignment with a mallet.
- If you need to cut tiles for laying under the wall of the house or along the curb, you need to use a grinder.
- We carry out the laying of paving slabs over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe blind area.
Laying tiles on the blind area completed
How to repair the blind area?
The blind area around the house, if you do not know the nuances of the laying technology, how to properly pour concrete or lay tiles, will obviously contain such defects that will emerge sooner or later and require repair work. Restoration is carried out depending on the degree of its damage:
- If there are cracks of no more than 1 mm, repairs are not required, since they are not critical and will in no way worsen the operational characteristics of the structure.
- If the size of the cracks is up to 3 mm, then it is recommended to fill with water-cement mortar in the same proportions. After the mortar dries, a solid layer will be created that will provide maximum protection for the building foundation.
- For cracks up to 3 cm, it will be necessary to fill with concrete mortar, having previously cleaned them of dirt and treated them with a deep penetration primer. The use of waterproof fillers or sealants is also allowed.
Sealing cracks in the blind area with a width of up to 3 cm
- Cracks more than 3 cm - it is necessary to study the strength of the structure and evaluate it and maintainability. It may be necessary to remove some of the top layer and align the pillow. After making sure of the sufficient load-bearing capacity of the structure, concrete should be poured.
- The crumbling of the blind area is eliminated by applying a water-cement composition to the surface in order to strengthen it.
Conclusion
It is shown that a self-installed blind area can last for a long time if step-by-step instructions were used and construction technologies were followed. The main installation methods for all types of blind areas are given. Some methods of repairing damage to the outer surface of the structure are indicated.
Do-it-yourself blind area: step-by-step instructions and installation nuances
In this review, we will tell you in detail how the blind area is performed with our own hands. Step-by-step instructions and recommendations will help you go through all the installation steps without errors.