Sailing modeling. How wooden ships are built Laying the clinker sheathing of the yal 6 boat

Review of the Yala-6 model from LS Model (Russia)


Manufacturer: LS Model (Russia).
Model scale: 1:36.
Model length: 175 mm.
Model height: 172 mm.
Model Width: 56 mm.
Material: wood, fabric, metal.
A source: http://karopka.ru/community/user/16133/?MODEL=450369.

Hello!
I would like to present to your attention a set for assembling a wooden model yala-6 with sailing rigging at a scale of 1:36 from the St. Petersburg firm LS Model (LS Model).
First, information about the prototype is from the kit manufacturer's website. Yal-6 or six-oared yal is a seaworthy boat with a slatted sailing rig, the main parts of which are a mast and rails, sails - fore and a jib, standing rigging - tackle for maintaining the spar, running rigging - tackle for lifting and controlling the sails.
A sailing-rowing yacht is designed to transport people or light cargo, for communication between ships or ship-to-shore, it is also used for training or pleasure purposes, driven by oars and sails. Most often it is used in inland waters or in the coastal zone of the seas. It has the following parameters: length - 6.11 m, width - 1.85 m, one mast on a six-oared yacht, called a foremast and serves as a support for sails. Made of pine or spruce (glued), length 5.5 m, cladding - clinker type.

Now about the set itself. The main features of the set, in my opinion, are, firstly, a large scale - 1/36, and secondly, clinker cladding. As far as I know, at the time of release it was the first domestic set with clinker cladding. The construction of the slipway is also interesting. It is not internal, like the boats of Milania and Falconet, but external. On the one hand, it will probably be more convenient to assemble the set of the case accurately and without distortions. On the other hand, further, when gluing the skin, the kit will not be fixed in any way, and most likely will walk. In addition, in the future, the slipway can be turned over and the body can be installed on it by inserting the projections on the keel into special grooves.
Dimensions of the finished model: length 175 mm, width 56 mm, height 172 mm.
The set includes:

  • Laser cut plates in walnut, makkore (mahogany), anegri and plywood slipways.
  • Photo-etched brass plate.
  • A piece of brass wire with a cross section of 0.9 mm.
  • Two spools of thread for standing and running rigging
  • Finished sewn sails.
  • Assembly instructions.

Solid walnut plates. They are given a keel, frames, spars, oars and a stand. Sheathing is made of 0.6 mm makkore veneer. A makkore plate with gunwale, fish and transom, as well as an anegri plate with keelson, podlegars, cans, collars, chaks and a back board - glued from two layers of veneer (or rather, apparently welded with a film under a heat press). You will have to be careful when welding these parts with the thermo-applicator, because from heating, they can delaminate.

On the photo-etched plate, there are keel and stem fittings, rudder loops, oarlocks, knits, eyes, hooks, ducks, pins, etc.

I would like to dwell on sails in detail. On the one hand, these are ready-made stitched sails with luffs, reef bows and sewn-on lyktros. On the other hand, the stitching does not go along the shared thread of the fabric, the luffs and reef-bows are too wide even with respect to the templates from the instructions, the lyctrope is sewn "in the coverage" and not through, and even at this scale it is already possible to sew sails from separate strips of fabric. In general, sails are very good for out-of-box assembly, and if you wish, you can sew your own according to the template given in the instructions.

For some reason, I found both black spools of thread in the set, although in the photographs of the manufacturer's assembly the running rigging is light. The threads are synthetic and quite glossy. Thick - three-strand, thin - two-strand.
After the release of the first edition, the production changed the design of the cover of the set, and also began to complete it with chiseled dowels of its own production. They are in the photo at the end. I took the design from the Internet, and the manufacturer sent the pins at my request.

Fig 1. The device of the boat (according to V.I. Shatrov, 1998):

1 - stern post; 2 - hole for weed; 3 - stern eyelet for the falin; 4 - transom bar; 5 - steering head; 6 - transom board; 7 - seat for the helmsman; 8 - shaped backing; 9 - guide strips; 10 - back board; 11 - stern seat; 12 - duck for foresheet; 13 - sub-socket; 14 - chuck for a metal knit; 15 - metal knit; 16 - duck for jib sheet; 17- interbank chuck; 18 - vant-stotens; 19 - fish; 20 - medium bank; 21 - foot support; 22 - basting; 23 - dowel; 24 - mast bank; 25 - fenders; 26 - a strip with a socket for a lamppost; 27 - breshtuk; 28 - tack hook; 29 - stem; 30 - bow eyelet for falin; 31 - bow lattice hatch; 32 - gunwale; 33 - step; 34 - lamp post step; 35 - bow bank; 36 - bow chain lift; 37 - clamping nut and keelson washer; 38 - step for the mast; 39 - frames; 40 - shirstrek; 41 - collar; 42 - pillars shoe; 43 - pillers; 44 - sheathing; 45 - podlegars; 46 - zagrebny (feed) bank; 47 - drain brass plug; 48 - sheet pile sheathing belt; 49 - aft lattice hatch; 50 - foot support; 51 - keel; 52 - keelson; 53 - wooden lining under the knit; 54 - aft chain hoist; 55 - metal knit; 56 - weather vane; 57 - steering wheel; 58 - steering loop with fittings; 59 - rod for the steering wheel; 60 - rudder feather.

The set of longitudinal and transverse beams representing the frame of the boat is called a set. Lifeboat hull set, consists of 5 main elements: keel, stem, sternpost, frames and transom (transom board).

For the longitudinal strength of the boat's hull, an oak bar is placed in the frame - keel (Figure 1.51; Figure 2.1), ending in the bow with a vertical bar - stem (Figure 1.29; Figure 2.4), and in the stern - sternpost (Figure 1.1; Figure 2.8)... The stem is firmly connected to the keel by means of a wooden connecting leg - button (nose knit) (Figure 2.7), and the sternpost using steel knit (Figure 1.55; Figure 2.10) on brass bolts.

Attached to the keel from above Rezen-keel (Figure 2.2), serving as additional durability of the set. A metal strip is superimposed on the keel and stem - forging (Figure 2.5), protecting the boat from damage during mooring.


Fig 2. Six-oar YL (detailing) (according to MM Kopp, 1988):

1- keel; 2 - resen-keel; 3 - tongue; 4 - stem; 5 - keel strip, or fittings; 6 - falstem; 7 - button (nose knit); 8 - sternpost; 9 - transom board or transom; 10 - aft metal knit; 11 - wooden lining under the knit; 12 - mounting bolts; 13 - keelson; 14 - mast step; 15 - lamp post step; 16 - pillers shoe; 17 - pillars shoe fastener; 18 - pillers; 19 - nose chain lifting eye; 20 - chain nose lift; 21 - chain hoist bracket; 22 - butt of the chain hoist; 23 - keelson mounting bolt; 24 - keelson washer; 25 - keelson nut; 26 - aft chain hoist; 27 - bow chain hoist clip; 28 - feed chain hoist holder; 29 - a strip with a socket for a lamppost; 30 - bow lattice hatch; 31 - tack hook; 32 - fish; 33 - foot support; 34 - removable front part of the aft lattice hatch; 35 - aft lattice hatch; 36 - foot support; 37 - tank bank; 38 - shirstrek (upper sheathing belt); 39 - frame; 40 - fender bar; 41-gunwale; 42 - collar; 43 - podlegars; 44 - mast bank; 45 - interbank chuck; 46 - metal knit; 47 - dowel; 48 - bar with a socket for a dowel; 49 - strips of the mast basting; 50 - mast basting; 51 - sublock; 52 - oarlock; 53 - backing for the line; 54 - pin for the oarlock; 55 - van't-stotens; 56 - cable lanyard; 57 - thimbles; 58 - cable; 59 - drain plug; 60 - socket for drain plug; 61 - leather pad; 62 - back board; 63 - guide bar; 64 - shaped backing for the fore-rod; 65 - seat for the helmsman (stern knit); 66 - trim of the transom board; 67 - eyelet for the stern hawker; 68 - stern fallen; 69 - stern seat; 70 - flagpole holder; 71 - flagpole step; 72 - boat nail with washer; 73 - figured bar.


The transverse strength and reliability of the boat's hull set are frames (Figure 1.39; Figure 2.39), which are fastened with galvanized steel screws to the rubber keel along the entire length of the boat on both sides.

On top of the frames, the keel is superimposed on the keelson (Figure 1.52; Figure 2.13)- removable board, which is connected to the keel brass bolts (Figure 2.23). On the keelson there are steps (Figure 1.38; Figure 2.14) for installing masts and rack nests - pillers (Figure 1.43; Figure 2.18), supporting banks. The upper ends of the frames are connected by two oak curved sides of the boat fenders (Figure 1.25; Figure 2.40), which, in turn, with their nasal ends are cut into the stem and are connected to it and to each other with a breast (Figure 1.27)- steel knit with a wooden lining. The stern ends of the fenders are fastened with a knit transom bar (Figure 1.4). The fender gives the boat longitudinal strength and kit reliability.

To protect the frames from damage, the bottom of the boat is closed with removable shields - fish (Figure 1.19; Figure 2.32), having footrests (Figure 1.21; Figure 1.50) rowers, and the aft part of the bottom is closed lattice hatch (Figure 1.49; Figure 2.34,2.35) in two parts.

The upper end of the pillars fits into the socket on the bank, the lower end into shoe (Figure 1.42; Figure 2.16) on the keelson. Between the banks on the sides there are spacers called inter-canal chaks (Figure 1.17; Figure 2.45).

Oak beams are laid on the sides of the boat slightly above the design waterline on the sides - podlegars (fig 1.45; fig 2.43) on which the can, stern seats and bow lattice hatch (Figure 1.31; Figure 2.30) with bar and socket for a lamppost (Figure 1.26; Figure 2.29). The lower end of the rack fits into the step nest on the stem. The cans and stern seat are attached to the podlegars and fenders with knits (fig 1.15; fig 2.46)... Fender bars and underlegars in the bow are firmly connected to each other and the stem, in the stern with the transom board.

Flush cut into the sternpost transom board (transom) (Figure 1.6; Figure 2. 9).

A wooden beam is attached to the transom along the perimeter from the inside - transom bar (Figure 1.4).

Parallel to the transom board, it is inserted into the vertical guide strips removable back board (Figure 1.10; Figure 2.62), which is installed parallel to the transom board at a distance of 35 - 45 cm from it.

On the inside of the transom board is clip (Figure 2.70), and on the stern seat - socket for attaching a flagpole, (flagpole step) (Figure 1.7; Figure 2.65)

Between the dorsal and transom boards at the starboard side on a wooden pad - knice (fig 1.7; fig 2.65), resting on the fender and transom beams, is the place of the foreman of the boat.

Belts sheathing (Figure 1.44) YaLa laid in the cover. The bottom line of the sheathing boards entering the keel tongue is called tongue-and-groove belt (Figure 1.48), and the upper belt - shirstrek (Figure 1.40; Figure 2.38).

The fenders of the ends of the frames and the upper edges of the shirstrek are closed from above on both sides with oak boards - gunwale (Figure 1.32; Figure 2.41), which are fenced from the outside with a semicircular shoulder (Figure 1.41), and the lower side is located on the belt, below the shirstrek. The collars are attached to the casing with screws, they cover the groove between the gunwale and the shirstrek and protect the sides of the boat from impacts during mooring.

There is a hole in the bottom of the boat in the area of ​​the grab bank with a screw-out brass plug (Fig 1.47; Fig 2.59, 2.60), which serves to drain the water accumulated at the bottom when the boat is being lifted.

The hull of the boat is equipped with various metal parts that serve to connect the parts of the kit to each other.

When lowering and lifting the lifeboat aboard the vessel are used chain lifts (Figure 1.36, 1.54; Figure 2.20, 2.26) which consist of butt (Figure 2.22), tightly riveted to the keel, a shackle, a piece of chain and eye (Figure 2.19)... The hooks of the boat hoists are laid behind the eyelets. So that the boat does not heel when lowering (lifting), the bow eyelet is passed through the locking bar on the bow bank, which forms clip nose chain lift (Figure 2.28), and aft through a special hole in the aft seat, which forms the clip of the feed chain volume (Figure 2.28).

For setting the mast in a vertical position and fixing it on the mast bank, the basting (Figure 1.22; Figure 2.50) and nests (Figure 2.48) for pegs (Figure 1.23; Figure 2.47), which are ordinary bolts with an oblong shaped head. They are designed to secure the basting and rigging tackle.

Steps (Figure 1.38; Figure 2.14) attaches to the keelson and serves to install the end (spur) of the mast.

On the inner edge of the fenders from the left and right sides, shaped butts are installed - vant-potens (Figure 1.18; Figure 2.55). They serve to fasten shrouds (Figure 2.58) holding the mast in an upright position, as well as for laying and tightening fock sheets (Figure 1.12; Figure 2.64), shaped backs are also available on the knits of the middle jar for bookmarking jib sheets (Figure 1.16).

Hook on the stem (tack hook) (Figure 1.28; Figure 2.31) serves for upsetting and fastening the jib-tack.

On the inside of the fender, there are ducks (Figure 1.12, 18) for jib-sheet, fore-sheet, as well as for fastening fenders when mooring.

The mooring device consists of nasal (Figure 1.30) and stern eye (Figure 1.3; Figure 2.67) to which the fire is attached falin-cable (Figure 2.68) from plant and synthetic fibers.

Attached to the gunwale sublocks (Figure 1.13; Figure 2.51) with nests for oarlocks (Figure 2.52)... There are four banks in YaL: bow (Figure 1.35), tank (mast) (Figure 1.24), middle (Figure 1.20) and stern (zagrebnaya) (Figure 1.46).

To keep the boat on a given course or change the direction of its movement, use steering device (Figure 1.57)... The steering wheel is hung in the center plane on special rod (Figure 1.59), why is it fixed on it a loop with a binding (Figure 1.58)... To prevent the tiller from falling out, it is fastened with a check connected by a chain with rudder head (Figure 1.5)... V re-rudder (Figure 1.60) there is weed hole (fig 1.2)- a small tench. One end of the weed, passed through the hole on the handlebars, is sealed with a knot, and the other is tied to the eye on the sternpost.

Outside in the bow of the stem, as well as on the transom board on the starboard and left sides, are reinforced edging for weather vane (Figure 1.56).

1.4. Six-oar yal arrangement

The most common type of rowing and sailing boat is the six-oared yawl (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1. General view of a six-oar yala:
1 - stem; 2 - tack hook; 3 - breshtuk; 4 - a hole for a lamppost; 5, 37 - lattice hatches; 6 - locking bar; 7 - basting; 8 - vant-potens; 9 - knit; 10 - sublock; 11 - chaka; 12 is stubborn; 13 - oarlocks step; 14 - duck; 15 - bank; 16-longitudinal bank; 17 - stern seat; 18 - tiller; 19 - back board; 20 - stern pad (knit); 21 - obushok; 22 - a chain of checks; 23, 56 - falini; 24 - weather vane; 25 - transom bar; 26 - transom board; 27 - stern ring; 28 - rubbish; 29 - hole for chain lifting; 30 - steering wheel; 31 - rod; 32 - loop for steering wheel suspension; 33 - podkilny strip (forging); 34 - stern post; 35-knit; 36, 55 - chain lifts; 38 - cork; 39 - frame; 40 - keel; 41 - keelson; 42 - tongue-and-groove belt; 43 - tetrahedral nail; 44 - fish; 45 - removable rack (pillers); 46 - podlegars; 47 - filler (wood); 48 - safety bar; 49 - shirstrek; 50 - gunwale; 51, 53-collars; 52-sheathing; 54-socket for the dowel; 57 - nose ring


The frame of the body is a set consisting of longitudinal and transverse oak or ash beams. The set gives the body the required shape and ensures its strength. The main part of the set is the keel.

Keel- a solid oak or glued from two oak and three pine planks a rectilinear beam running along the entire length of the boat.

In the bow, it is fastened to the keel with brass bolts, forming the bow of the boat (Fig. 2), stem- curved beams glued from several oak planks.

The stern end of the boat is formed by a rectangular bar glued from oak planks cut into the keel at an angle of ~ 100 ° - sternpost... Achtersteven is fastened with a galvanized steel keel knit on brass bolts.


Rice. 2. Keel and stems:
1 - jib-tack hook (tack hook); 2 - stem; 3, 9, 10 - bolts; 4 - lining; 5 - knit; 6 - stern ring; 7 - stern post; 8 - transom board; 11 - keel; 12 - podkilny strip


Flush cut into the sternpost transom board(transom) made of two or three oak planks. On the inside, along the perimeter, a wooden rim is attached to the transom - transom... An oak tree is attached to the keel on top with galvanized nails. Resen - keel that gives the keel extra strength.

Along the entire length of the keel, on both sides of its upper part, tongue-and-groove piles are cut to attach the first sheathing belt (Fig. 3).

The keel and stem are protected from damage by the metal a sickly strip.

Attached to the resen-keel with galvanized steel screws frames- transverse ribs made of hard wood, curved in the shape of the boat contours (Fig. 4). There are 25 frames on a six-oar yacht.

On top of the frames on the resen-keel lies keelson-removable board fastened to the keel with brass bolts (fig. 4 and 14).


Rice. 3. Keel design:
1 - resen-keel; 2 - tongue; 3 - keel; 4 - podkilny strip


The upper ends of the frames are fastened with two oak curved sides fenders and beams.


Rice. 4. Fastening of frames:
1 - keelson; 2 - frame; 3 - a nail with a washer; 4 - sheathing; 5 - resen-keel; 6 - screw; 7 - keel


The nose ends of the fenders are cut into the stem and fastened to it and to each other breshtkom-steel knit with a wooden lining (Figure 5).

The stern ends of the fenders are fastened with steel knots with a transom bar.

Pine and oak planks are nailed to the yala set with galvanized or copper nails. The bow ends of the skin are recessed into the cut out tongue on the fore-stem, and the stern ends are fastened to the stern-post rim of the transom and the transom board. The sheathing consists of 14 belts.


Rice. 5. Fastening of fenders:
1 - stem; 2 - hook for jib-tack fastening; 3 - steel knit; 4 - wooden plate (breshtuk); 5 - nose ring; 6 - frame; 7 - fender bar; 8 - shirstrek


First belt - tongue-and-groove made of 16 mm oak planks (the thickness of the remaining planks is 12 mm). Upper planking belt - shirstrek also made of oak planks. There is a wooden filler between the shirstrek and the fenders. The yala sheathing belts are laid close to each other (Fig. 6, a).

Fenders, ends of frames and upper edges of shirstrek are closed on top of oak a board - a gunwale.

Two collars- semicircular oak or ash bars - protect the sides of the boat from impacts during mooring. The upper collar covers the groove between the gunwale and the shirstrek, and the lower one is located on the belt, which is below the shirstrek. The collars are attached to the casing with brass screws. The gunwale and wood filler have holes for oarlocks (three on each side) (Fig. 12).


Rice. 6. Sheathing:
a - close; b - smooth; 1 - gunwale; 2 - collars; 3 - sheathing boards; 4 - nails with washers; 5 - frame; 6 - podlegars; 7 - bank; 8 - glazing bead; 9 - fender


On longitudinal oak beams - podlegars the banks are supported, which serve as seats for rowers and elements of the transverse fastening of the boat.

There are four banks in the yala: bow, tank (mast), middle and rake (stern). Steel galvanized knits they are fastened to the fenders (fig. 7). To prevent the banks from sagging under the weight of the rowers, their middle parts are strengthened with racks - pillers. The upper end of the post fits into the socket on the bank, the lower end into the shoe on the keelson (Fig. 14). Between the banks on the sides there are spacers called chakami... On top of the cans and chuck, an oak plank is laid close to the frames - glazing bead(fig. 6 and 7).


Rice. 7. Fastening the can to the fender:
1 - metal knit; 2 - gunwale; 3 - fender bar; 4 - frame; 5 - wood filler; 6 - glazing bead; 7 - shaped back for starting the jib sheet; 8 - podlegars; 9 - bank (medium); 10 - chaka


In the bow of the boat, a removable head rests on the podlegars bow lattice hatch with a hole for a lamp post (or race number). The lower end of the strut fits into the shoe socket on the stem.

In the aft part of the boat (Fig. 8) a seat rests on the podlegars, on which the passengers, the commander and the foreman of the boat are placed when sailing. Parallel to the transom board, a removable back board is inserted into the vertical guide shoes.

Between the dorsal and transom boards at the starboard side, on a wooden pad - a knit resting on the fenders and transom bars, there is the place of the foreman of the boat when moving on oars.

To protect the frames from damage, make it easier to move around the boat and evenly distribute the load, the bottom of the yacht is covered with removable wooden shields - fish, and between the raking can and the stern seat - aft lattice hatch(fig. 8 and 9), consisting of two parts.


Rice. 8. Stern part of the six-oar boat:
1 - duck; 2 - guide shoe; 3 - split shaped backing for starting the fore-sheet; 4 - wooden knit (the place of the foreman of the boat when moving on the oars); 5 - transom bar; 6 - stern ring; 7 - hole for the lifting chain eye; 8 - stern seat; 9 - aft lattice hatch; 10 - cork


There are paddles' footrests on the fish and the hatch. To drain the water accumulated at the bottom of the boat, there is a hole in the skin under the aft hatch with a screw plug (Fig. 8). When lowering and lifting the lifeboat on board the ship, chain lifts(lifting eyes).


Rice. 9. Rybina:
1 - fish; 2 - prop; 3 - construction site


The chain hoist consists of a butt, tightly attached to the keel, a lifting shackle, a piece of chain and an eye (Fig. 10). The hooks of the boat hoists are laid behind the eyelets.


Rice. 10. Chain hoist (chain hoist):
1 - eye; 2 -. locking bar; 3 - chain; 4 - lifting bracket; 5 - nuts; 6 -kilson; 7 - bolt; 8 - keel; 9 - butt; 10 - pin


To prevent the boat from tilting when lowering (lifting), the bow eyelet is passed through stopper bar on the bow can, and the stern - through a special hole in the stern seat.


Rice. 11. Steering device:
1 - steering head; 2 - check with a chain; 3, 5 - hinges with fittings; 4 - hole for weed; 6 - rudder feather; 7 - sternpost; 8 - rod; 9 eye of the stern hawk; 10 - weed; 11 - tiller


To keep the boat on a given course or change the direction of its movement, use steering gear(fig. 11), consisting of a hinged rudder, parts for its attachment and a tiller (when moving on oars, a curved tiller is used, when sailing - a straight one).

Steering wheel made of oak and consists of head, feather and hinges with fittings. It is hung on a galvanized steel rod, fixed on the transom board and yall sternpost. The handlebar head has a square hole for tiller... To prevent the tiller from falling out, it is secured with a check connected by a chain to the rudder head or tiller. The rudder has a hole for weed- a small line with a circumference of 25 mm. One end of the weed, passed through the hole on the handlebars, is sealed with a knot, and the other is tied to the eye on the sternpost.


Rice. 12. Subkey:
1 - gunwale; 2 - sublock; 3 - hole for the oarlock; 4 - wood filler; 5 - fender


For attaching oars, mast and tackle when steering the sails, as well as for other needs, the following parts are available on the hull of the boat.

Sublocks- angled galvanized metal strips with holes for oarlocks embedded flush into the gunwale (Fig. 12).

Basting- folding metal bracket on a hinge for holding the mast in a vertical position. One end of the basting is fixed on the mast bank, the other, folding, is attached to the bank with a dowel (Fig. 13).

Steps- a metal attachment attached to the keelson for the installation of the lower end (spur) of the mast. In the recess of the step there is a horizontal pin, on which the mast sits with a spur groove (Fig. 14).

Steps are also called metal trims with holes for oarlocks, which are sometimes installed below the fender.

Vantputens- metal strips with eyelets for cable stays. They are located on the inside of the fenders, two on each side (Fig. 20).

Split shaped butts serve for laying foresheets. They are located on the gunwale between the back and transom boards (Fig. 8). On the knits of the middle can there are shaped butts for the jib sheets (Fig. 7).


Rice. 13. Basting:
1 - hole for the dowel; 2 - basting; 3 - dowel


Hack on the stem (tack hook) serves for upsetting and fastening the jib-tack (Fig. 2 and 5).


Rice. 14. Keelson with steps and foot shoes:
1 - shoe for the rack (pillers); 2 - pin; 3 - step; 4 - keelson


Ducks- metal double-horned strips for fastening fenders (Fig. 8).

Mooring device consists of a bow (on the stem) and aft (on the stern) eye rings, to which they are attached with a fire falini- ropes made of vegetable or synthetic fibers. Designed for mooring and towing boats.

There is a clip on the inside of the transom board, and on the aft seat - nest(or shoe) for fastening the flagpole (fig. 15).


Rice. 15. Details on the transom board:
1 - flagpole; 2 - duck on the flagpole for attaching the flag halyard; 3 - metal strips for attaching the outboard motor; 4 - shaped back for fastening the rail: 5 - transom bar; 6 - a metal plate with data on the seaworthiness of the boat; 7 - fodder fallen; 8 - shaped board; 9 - socket for a flagpole; 10 - flag call sign; 11 - clip for a flagpole


There are two metal strips installed on the transom board for the motor suspension. For fastening the handrail when covering the boat, there is shaped obushe.

To the left of the sternpost, on the transom board, a metal plate is nailed with data on the seaworthiness and passenger capacity of the boat, and the flag call sign of this boat is painted on the right.

The flag call sign is assigned to the boat by the order of the commander of the ship (unit) and consists of a combination of two flags of the Boat Signal Book: the upper flag denotes a letter, the lower one - "Boat". Thus, flag callsigns are of the form: A. Shl., B. Shl. etc.


Rice. 16. Location of the wind vane on the transom


In addition to the flag call sign, a weather vane and a digital call sign are assigned to the boat by the circular of the chief of staff of the fleet. The latter is painted on the racing number and sewn onto the sail. The procedure for using the callsigns is set out in the Boat Signal Book (SHSK).

In the bow, on the starboard fender, a plate is attached indicating the type of boat, manufacturer, serial number and year of construction.

Weather vane - round signs with a wooden edging (Fig. 16) indicating which ship (part) the boat belongs to. They are located outside the skin in the bow and on the transom on both sides.

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There are two rowers on each bank of sixes.

A six-oar yawl is used:

Yal- (from Dutch.jol; 2 and 4-rowed yal are usually called a skiff) is

There is only one mast on a six-oar yala, called the foremast, and serves as a support for the sails. Made of pine or spruce (glued). Mast length- 5.5 m. The lower end of the mast - spur is made four-sided and sheathed with metal fittings for strength.

Guys serve for fastening the mast. They are made from hemp rope with a circumference of 50 mm or steel rope with a diameter of 4-6 mm. Thimbles are inlaid into both ends of the shrouds - metal rings with grooves. The upper ends of the cables are attached to the butts of the yoke. Pins are attached to the lower thimbles of the cables - the ends of a line with a circumference of 25 mm, which serve as cable tethers for tightening and attaching the cables to the cable-stayed cables. The length of the cables must be such that the cable lanyard in the covered state is not shorter than 20 cm. It is prohibited to shorten the cables using knots.

Fock-fal It is made of a vegetable rope with a circumference of 40 mm and is used to raise a rail with a sail. The root end of the halyard is attached to the butt of the rax-yoke, and the undercarriage is passed through the pulley in the mast and is attached to the dowel.

Rax-drag -

Rack -

When the sail is hoisted, the third sling is put on the hook with a goggle with a goggle. The mast with shrouds and a halyard is stored on banks in the center plane of the boat to the left of the sail. To install the mast in the working position, it is imperative that there are prepared dowels, the serviceability of the shorts with lanyard tips, the absence of visible damage to the mast, step, mast can and the folding basting mechanism.

To set the spar, the rowers bring the folded spar with the top mast to the stern,
The spur-mast is placed opposite the step, the basting is folded back.
Before lifting the top mast, it is checked: the waning thimbles on the top mast should hang on the bottom
parts of the butts, the mast should be turned down with the tack hook (in the raised state, the yoke with
the tack hook should be higher than the hinged basting mechanism and turned with the hook towards the stern).
Then the top mast is lifted, the spur-mast is guided and installed in the step, then
the spar is installed vertically.
Once the mast has been upright, it is necessary to
close tightly folding basting and fix it with a dowel. After that, both
shirts and halyard. The cables are fastened with lanyard knots on the nearest cable ties.
Before hoisting the sails, check: the rigidity of the spars in the mechanism
folding basting, the yoke must be turned with the hook to the starboard side so that the halyard does not
wrapped the mast, and additionally check the integrity of the spars and rigging.
The folding of the spar is performed by the command "cut the spar" before each removal
sailing rig out of the boat.
The mast is folded as follows: the free halyard is pulled out so that
so that the distance between the yoke and the yoke with the tack hook is 0.5 - 0.8 m; both shrouds and
the free end of the halyard is twisted together around the mast in 3-4 turns; further guy and halyard
are pulled together with a lanyard knot on a hook on a yoke-yoke and a hook on a yoke with a tack-hook; in such
position, the mast is removed, carried and stored.

Sailing equipment Yal-6: jib, fore.

    KEEL is the base of the boat.

    FORSTEVEN - nasal continuation of the keel.

    CRANKS - ribs of rigidity, giving the boat lateral strength.

    BODY - double plastic, with a foam layer.

    TRANSIT - the aft end of the boat.

    RAIL BAR - connects the stem to the transom, increases the strength of the side.

    PLANCHIR - the upper part of the fender.

    BURTIK - protects the board from hitting the berth.

    GLASS WITH A HOLE FOR DRAINING WATER.

    BANKA - seat for rowers

BAKOVAYA - for signalmen

MAST - for tank rowers

MEDIUM - for medium rowers

ZAGREBNAYA - for zagrebny

AFT SEAT - for spare

SEAT FOR STEERING STEERER AND SANCER - KNITSA.

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Boat keel - a longitudinal bar of rectangular cross-section, going along the entire length of the boat. Serves to ensure the longitudinal strength of the bead. Frames are placed on the keel. This name sounds the same in English, Dutch and German. This term came to us even when the Dutchman Van Bukoven built the first Russian warship "Eagle" (1667). IN AND. Dahl in his "Explanatory Dictionary of the Living Great Russian Language" gave not only its exact explanation, but also the proverb: "It's dashing to lay the keel, and the cocora (ribs - that is, frames) and good people will put it."

The terms wake, keelblok are formed by the addition of words. The word KILKA, which came to us from the Estonian language, is also associated with the keel found in the lower part of the body of this fish.

KEEL BREAKING - laying of the foundation of the vessel, beginning of construction.

KNITSA is the term from which the accusations of clogging up the "ship's" language with meaningless foreign words came. In Dutch the wordsknie, knitjemean knee, knee. In Russian documents, KNITSA is found for the first time in the "List of forest supplies for one ship", dated 1698. It says here that for one hull it is necessary to prepare "120 locomotive crooks - they are called knis". In classical shipbuilding, knits were cut out of a suitable tree with a branch. These curves were quite impressive. In the mentioned "Painting" it is said that the "underside" (lower vertical) end of the beams knit blank must be at least 10 feet long (1 foot - 30.5 cm), the upper, extending at an angle of 90 ° - 7 or 8 feet ( "And as thick as possible to find"). "Lokotnaya krivulya" is also not a casual play on words. In goll. lang. once there was a term - cromhout, where crom - means curve. This crooked tree was translated as "crooked". And the comparison with the elbow is obviously already on the conscience of the translator.