Of all the existing schemes, laying tiles on the floor diagonally is the most difficult way. The main problematic nuances are related to markup. You also need to correctly determine the place from where you need to lay the first tile, and in which direction to move. Despite all the difficulties, diagonal styling allows you to realize many design ideas.
Which tile to choose for the floor, and how to glue it
To consider a step-by-step guide to laying diamond tiles, you must begin with the choice of material. This is what determines the quality of the end result.
The floor in the room is usually laid out with tiles or ceramic tiles. And what is their difference? Virtually nothing. The basis is clay, and only additives differ. A tile is a type of ceramic tile. Both materials are great for any room in a living space. GOST 6787-2001 applies to ceramic floor tiles. According to the standard, tiles with an unglazed surface are intended for balconies and loggias. Glazed tiles are laid in all other rooms.
Attention! GOST 6787-2001 does not apply to tiles used in rooms with a high concentration of alkalis and acids.
You can not save on the quality of the tile. Its surface must be resistant to abrasion, aggressive cleaning agents, as well as mild impacts. Tile suffers the most in the kitchen and bathroom. Permanent moisture, grease, objects that have fallen on the floor should not harm the floor covering.
Now for the glue. Laying tiles on cement mortar is the last century. There are a huge number of adhesive mixtures, but they need to be chosen correctly:
- For small tiles, a cement-based adhesive mixture is usually used. It is sold in the form of a dry powder, and is inexpensive.
- Larger slabs are best laid using epoxy adhesive. It is sold ready to use.
- A floor with a wooden base is deformed while walking by a person. To prevent the tile from flying off, it is better to give preference to polyurethane adhesive because of its elasticity.
Incorrectly selected glue for certain operating conditions will begin to crumble over time. Large cracks will appear under the tile, and it will simply peel off the floor.
We calculate the materials and prepare the tool for work
Do-it-yourself tile laying begins with the preparation of materials and tools. First of all, you need to calculate the required amount of tiles on the floor. The complexity of the calculation arises in the fact that laying tiles diagonally requires a lot of trimming. This results in a lot of waste being left behind.
The calculation of the amount of tiles begins with determining the floor area by multiplying the length of two adjacent walls of the room. The result is divided by the size of the tile.
Attention! When using the diamond laying pattern, only square tiles will do. Another form of tile will distort the diagonal arrangement of rows.
When the total amount of material becomes known, you need to calculate how many whole tiles and pieces will be required. Every effort must be made so that after cutting both pieces of tiles can be used. The final result obtained is multiplied by 10%. The reserve is needed in case of a fight, marriage and other unforeseen situations.
To work, you need a tool:
- bucket for mixing glue;
- two spatulas for applying the solution with a smooth and serrated blade;
- laser or regular level;
- building cord;
- pencil, tape measure, rubber mallet;
- crosses for leveling seams;
- grinder with a diamond disc or tile cutter.
Another material you will need is a grout paste for joints, but it can already be purchased after laying the tiles.
Work order from A to Z
So, now the instruction will be considered, including a step-by-step guide to the work performed.
Floor surface preparation
The tile must be laid on a clean, level and solid floor. This is the only way to achieve good results. Work begins with the removal of the old flooring. If there are painted areas on the concrete screed, bitumen residues, inserted wooden mortgages, then all this must also be removed. A completely cleaned surface is primed, and then checked by level. If the floor turned out to be perfectly flat, then you just need to putty the cracks, clean the protrusions and go through the primer again.
Most often, the surface of the old floor is uneven. The best way out is to pour a new screed from a self-leveling mixture. Dry powder is diluted with water, thoroughly mixing with a construction mixer to the consistency of sour cream. The solution is evenly applied to the floor, leveling with a spiked roller. After four days, the smooth surface is coated with a primer.
Two ways to mark the floor
In order for the tiles on the floor to look diagonally beautiful, you need to properly mark the floor. This is one of the most difficult processes and can be done in two ways.
In any case, in order to correctly lay the tiles on the floor with a rhombus, you need to choose the right landmark. The role of the guide line is played by a diagonal drawn between opposite corners of the room. If the walls are uneven, the two diagonals will differ in length. This will greatly disrupt the arrangement of the rows of diamonds.
The first marking method does not require you to stick to the diagonal. The landmark for the first tile is determined by an isosceles triangle. To build it, two lines of the same length are drawn on the floor from adjacent corners of one wall. The size of the same segments can be taken at your discretion, but it is better to choose so that the marking of the triangle coincides with the diagonal of the tile. This will allow you to start laying with a solid tile.
The second marking method is suitable for a square room. It requires orientation to the diagonal. First determine the center. To do this, find the middle on the four sides of the floor. Lines are drawn with a pencil, connecting opposite points. You should get two perpendicular segments intersecting at an angle of 90 o. This is the center. This is where the tiling begins. Two more lines are drawn through this point, connecting opposite corners. These will be the diagonals for orientation.
Correct application of glue and control of the position of the tile
Applying glue shouldn't be a problem. The finished mixture is evenly applied to the floor with an even spatula. Next, they take a tool with a serrated blade, apply it perpendicular to the floor surface, and, moving to the sides, make grooves on the glue.
Attention! When using a tile with a porous surface, it must also be lubricated with glue.
After applying the adhesive solution, the tiles are laid, gently tapping with a rubber mallet. Immediately you need to check the horizontalness of the tile with a level. When laying tiles diagonally, it is important to monitor its position. Diagonal rows should run at an angle of 45 degrees to the walls of the room. The evenness of the seams is regulated by plastic crosses. They additionally help to set the tiles horizontally.
Laying tiles from the center and corner of the room
You can lay out tiles with a rhombus from the center or corner of the room. It all depends on the features of the device of the room.
First way
So, from the center of the floor we lay tiles in the event that this part of the room will be on public display. That is, the place will not be filled with furniture or something else. Tiles must be laid in sectors. After marking, they get four pieces.
Taking a spatula in hand, we proceed to laying the tiles:
- The first tile must be laid from the center of the floor. One corner of the tile is placed at the central point where all lines intersect. The edge of the tile is combined with the diagonal.
- Next, you need to lay out the first row. Laying tiles with a rhombus occurs, adhering to the diagonal. The stacked row ends in the corner of the room. Now we need to return to the center again. From here, the second row is laid out in the same way in the opposite direction of the room. Upon completion of the second row, a straight diagonal of tiles will be obtained across the entire room.
- The same actions are performed with the third and fourth row to get the second diagonal of tiles. Now the floor is divided into four sectors. They need to be tiled one by one.
Laying tiles in the sectors begins after the glue has hardened on the diagonal rows. The last tiles near the walls will have to be cut into triangles. It is optimal to use a tile cutter, but in its absence, a grinder with a diamond wheel is suitable.
Second way
In a bedroom or kitchen, often the center of the room is crowded with furniture or other items. The most visible place here is the area near the front doors. Here it is reasonable to use the second method, which involves laying ceramic tiles diagonally from the corner. Moreover, the first lay tiles cut into triangles.
It is important to lay exactly the first row. It consists of two triangular tiles, and usually starts from the left corner of the entrance doors. Further, according to the scheme shown in the photo, the tiles are laid diagonally in the following rows.
With uneven walls, the geometric shape of the room is violated. Near the wall on the last row, it may be necessary to cut complex tiles in several places. In order not to be mistaken, a template is cut out of paper according to the size of the tile. Then it is shaped into a complex fragment, and the sketch is transferred to a solid tile. Now it remains to trim along the lines, and glue the piece into place.
Grouting
The mishandled floor with tiles is left for a day until the glue completely hardens. When it is already possible to walk on the tile, the mounting crosses are removed from the seams and proceed to grouting. Pasta is prepared from a dry mix. It is diluted to the consistency of non-liquid sour cream. The finished paste is pushed into the voids of the joints with a rubber spatula. After grouting the floor with a maximum area of 2 m 2, the remains of the mixture are removed. It is impossible to delay cleaning the floor from the paste, otherwise it will be almost impossible to wash it off after hardening.
Conclusion
The video tells about the rules for laying tiles diagonally:
This is the principle of laying floor tiles diagonally in any room. The process is complicated, but if you wish, you can do the work yourself at home.
Classic layout - with this method of flooring, it is characteristic that all horizontal rows are located exactly in relation to each other. Cladding according to the classical scheme is suitable for rooms with the correct geometry, that is, all angles in the room are approximately 45 °, and the discrepancies in the diagonals do not exceed 5 cm.Diagonal layout - with this method, they are laid on the floor with a rhombus. That is, they deliberately lay the tiles so that oblique rows are visually obtained. Diagonal flooring is the only right solution if the room has an irregular or complex geometry. For example, when combining a balcony and a kitchen into a single loggia or when combining a toilet with a bathroom into a single bathroom, they almost always get a floor surface with irregular geometry.
Attention! The easiest way to decide on the layout is to take and accurately measure the diagonals, at the corners of the room from the inside. If the size is practically the same (difference up to 5 cm) - you can veneer according to the classical scheme. If the run-up is about or more than 10 cm, then definitely, it is necessary to choose a diagonal installation.
Non-standard tile layout from the Concret collection of the Natucer factory
Marking for laying porcelain stoneware according to the classical scheme
With ideally correct geometry, floors are almost never found. In either case, there are diagonal divergences in the room and the first thing to do is to decide where the wedge will be placed. That is, it is necessary to lay out several horizontal and vertical rows without glue on a prepared even screed, while taking into account the following points.- The wedge should not be on the entry threshold. Where there is a threshold into the room - there should be a whole even tile.
- Standing at the entrance to the room, visually determine the areas open to the eye and hidden areas of the floor. Areas hidden from view - the area behind the door, areas where the sink or heavy furniture will be located, and simply areas “where it is not visible”.
- Having laid the tiles exactly along the threshold and having determined the zones hidden to the eye, the tiles are laid out so that the wedge or cutting does not stand out too much. On the screed, indicative marks are made, according to which the laying of porcelain stoneware will begin.
Diagonal markings for porcelain stoneware cladding
For marking, you will need a rebound marker thread and a 90 ° construction square. It is necessary to perform the following series of actions in sequence.- The marker thread is stretched between parallel corners along the diagonal of the room above the screed. Pulling and sharply releasing the thread, a straight line is made on the screed diagonally between opposite corners.
- In the center of the room, a 90 ° square is applied to the line on the screed. Focusing on the second shelf of the square, above the screed, between the other two corners, the second line is beaten off with a marker thread.
- The resulting point of intersection of the two lines on the screed will mean the center of the room and the area from which to start laying porcelain stoneware.
Diagonal installation of Baltic tiles by Cithetiles
Preparation of tools and necessary materials
For flooring you will need tools:- Level, square and tape measure;
- Small spatula and trowel;
- Special spatula - comb with a tooth height of 6-10 mm;
- Small angle grinder (angle grinder, she is also a grinder) with a win disc;
- Stationery knife and pencil.
- Rubber mallet;
From what site does the laying of porcelain stoneware on the floor begin?
With classic cladding, the principle is as follows:1. Laying the facing material on the glue starts from the threshold. That is, longitudinally to the future threshold, 1 row of a whole tile is laid out on glue;
2. Further from the horizontal row on the threshold, a complete vertical row is laid out along one of the walls;
3. Tiles are no longer laid in the threshold area, the laid porcelain stoneware is carefully stepped over, and all laying is carried out from the far corner into the room;
4. If you correctly use the square, the level and constantly navigate by the marks on the screed, then over time they go exactly to the first row of tiles at the threshold;
5. On the first day, only whole slabs of porcelain stoneware are laid on the glue, all other extensions and cut parts are laid after 2 days.
When facing the floor diagonally:
1. Laying porcelain stoneware on the adhesive starts from the center of the room, where a cross was drawn on the screed with a marker thread. The center of the cross is the point of contact of the first 4 tiles;
2. After laying the first 4 tiles in the center of the floor, later you can lay porcelain stoneware in any convenient direction, the main thing is to leave a small space so that you can move without stepping on the tile;
3. In the early days, lay out as large an area as possible only from whole porcelain stoneware. Further, after a pause of 1-2 days, extensions are laid on the glue - porcelain stoneware cut around the perimeter of the room.
Attention! No one can say for sure when it will be possible to step on porcelain stoneware laid on glue and move along it. Much depends on the air temperature in the room, the brand of tile adhesive and the thickness of its layer.
Classic tiling
In order for porcelain stoneware to be laid on the floor with high quality, it is imperative to ensure that no voids form under the tile and that the entire space is filled with tile adhesive. To achieve complete filling, the tile adhesive must be applied both to the surface of the screed and to the back of the porcelain stoneware. Moreover, it is desirable to apply the working tile adhesive in different directions.Initially, with a trowel, the adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the screed and its mass is distributed “by eye”. After that, the adhesive mass is distributed over the screed and its uniform thickness is formed using a comb spatula. Further, in a similar way, glue is applied to the back side of porcelain stoneware and a single layer thickness is set to it with a comb. At the next stage, the tile is laid in its place and the upper part of the porcelain stoneware is lightly pressed with the palm of your hand.
From above, on the surface of the facing material, a bubble level is placed on the edge and weak point blows are made on the porcelain stoneware with a rubber mallet. The main task here is to level the ceramic tiles laid on the adhesive as evenly as possible. Having completed the leveling of the first tile in a similar way, the adjacent porcelain tile is placed on the adhesive, while the same thickness of the seam between the tiles is formed by inserted PVC crosses.
Advice! If you are going to tile the floor with your own hands for the first time in your life, we recommend that you preview the video with step-by-step instructions or chat with professional builders.
Grouting joints between floor tiles
It is advisable to grout the joints between porcelain stoneware 5-7 days after it has been laid on the adhesive. As long as the joints are empty, they allow the adhesive to ventilate under the tiles and the adhesive itself dries faster and better. Grouting is carried out with a special mixture for filling tile joints using a rubber flexible spatula. Previously, all seams are cleaned with a clerical knife from foreign debris and dust. Then, along the cleaned seams, they pass with a vacuum cleaner. After that, all the seams are filled with a finished grout with a rubber spatula and pause for about 30-40 minutes. When the filler for tile joints hardens a little, they pass over the entire lined surface with a wide, very damp sponge, after which they repeatedly pass over the entire surface several times with a dry piece of old rags.To create a pattern on the surface of a wall or floor, different tile laying techniques have long been used, depending on its color, size and other parameters. Parallel laying (it is also called basic) is ordinary and simple in terms of work. Much more complicated and costly is its method of laying out in a diagonal direction. But the result is worth it, because the laid out surface has an unusual mosaic view, which is combined with any interior and looks attractive in rooms of different sizes.
Diagonal tile planning
Tile is a finishing material that makes it possible to use an unlimited number of design solutions, taking into account the diversity presented on the consumer market. The tile differs in shape, size, complementary elements, materials, coating. All this makes it possible to make a masterpiece out of even the simplest and most outstanding tiles, to lay an absolutely unique, individual coating.
Advice! You can carry out styling by resorting to several methods. It can be a straight or diagonal method (it is also called a rhombus).
In order to lay the covering in a diagonal direction, you need to rotate the ordinary pattern by 45°. Professionals can lay out almost any kind of design in a diagonal direction, turning it at an angle from 30 ° to 70 °, and there is also the practice of combining two methods - straight and diagonal laying.
In the store, at the stage of purchasing tile material, you need to decide in advance on the scheme with which you will lay the coating. This is a very important point, on which a number of other characteristics depend:
Format and design of the tile surface
If the tile is the same size, even inexperienced craftsmen can lay it. The quality and speed of work, of course, depend on the experience of working with such material, but modular laying is a set of elements that have different sizes and dimensions, as well as shapes that are multiples of each other. Such tiles are laid randomly or in a certain sequence. Such an implementation is laborious and requires experience.
Equipment
This is a quantitative measurement of the tile material, as well as the presence of other auxiliary elements. If you lay monochromatic products diagonally, the coating will look calm, but if you resort to a combination of two or more colors, the picture will change dramatically.
On a note! it turns out bright and organic, but you should use the dominant color carefully so as not to overload the space. The large number of colors used requires even more caution and miscalculation.
At the stage of preparation for work, it is worthwhile to devote sufficient time to the configuration, as well as to carry out calculations.
Calculation of the consumption of tiles for facing
When applying diagonal laying, you will need a considerable amount of facing. Almost all elements laid around the perimeter of the area will be trimmed, but at the same time, you will need almost everything for work.
Advice! For this reason, we recommend purchasing cladding material with a margin of 25% - it will be waste. At the same time, it is better to purchase material with a margin right away due to the fact that later it will be problematic to find the same shade of material that you will miss..
The easiest and really correct way to determine the amount of material that you need for laying is a drawing. You can make it yourself by hand or use the help of a special consultant who will help you determine the amount of material and calculations.
Important! Almost every manufacturer provides sellers of their products with a special program that allows you to calculate the amount of material. It is convenient and saves a lot of time.
Tile laying tools
When laying the cladding diagonally, you will definitely need a set of tools:
- Directly the coating itself for cladding and the shaped elements necessary for it;
- Polymer or cement glue;
- Soil - it will be needed when updating the base;
- Polymer or cement grout for joints;
- A ruler made of steel, a square with a tape measure;
- Level;
- Tile cutting machine. A tile cutter will be needed quite often, since with this laying method you will need to cut a large amount of material. You can rent a tile cutter. It is better to use good quality equipment, this will help you save time and increase the productivity of the work performed;
- Cord for marking the coverage area, as well as a marker;
- In order to mix the solution, prepare the mixer together with the container for the solution;
- Spatula with a mallet for the procedure of mashing seams;
- To align the plates, prepare special remote crosses;
- Knee pads and mounting gloves;
- Cloth, a bucket with a sponge are necessary to keep the workplace clean.
Instructions for self-laying tiles diagonally
- Substrate preparation for laying tiles. The surface should allow laying tiles from 2 to 15 mm; if the coating is mosaic, the base will be 20 mm. The coating must be dry, clean, smooth, durable.
Laying tiles diagonally has some advantages over the usual (generally accepted) cladding method:
Diagonal floor tiles.
- When there is a narrow undercut under the wall, the triangular pieces look more natural and less noticeable. Oblique, narrow pieces with chess (ordinary) lining, constantly attract the eye.
- When laying porcelain tiles of the same pattern in several adjacent rooms, the geometry of the rooms does not affect the seams and the resulting layout of tiles against the walls. The location and shape of these rooms can be of any configuration and the tiles on the floor will look natural.
Laying tiles diagonally.
Diagonal tiling in two adjacent rooms.
- When facing two adjacent rooms with floor tiles with different colors and patterns, it is possible to play with contrast on the door line. This can be done by placing tiles on the floor diagonally in one room and in straight rows in another.
Contrast when laying tiles in different ways
I am not alone in my reasoning about the ability of tiles laid in a rhombus on the floor to hide irregularities in the geometry of rooms:
The technology of laying tiles on the floor diagonally.
There is an opinion that in order to lay tiles diagonally, it is necessary to draw diagonals on the floor and start facing along these lines.
This condition is possible only in one case. If the room is square in plan. That is, the sides are the same, and all the angles in the room are 90 degrees.
There is an easier way to glue tiles diagonally. To do this, you need to cut several tiles exactly diagonally and start facing using these oblique halves. The first whole 4-5 tiles laid in a square will give one even side. It must be taken as the base. Align, if not a straight line, with a wedge. And in the future, continue the straight line with a chopping cord or a laser beam. At some stage (section), you can reproduce a right angle on it, and already carry out all further laying according to this angle. This will help to get even rows of seams even on non-calibrated tiles.
technology of laying tiles on the floor diagonally.
Filling the space with whole tiles, pruning can be done the next day. These triangular pieces no longer affect the geometry and layout.
Where to start laying diagonally.
The impracticality of facing along the diagonals applied on the floor is that you have to start from a corner or some wall. But the most prominent place often becomes the passageway of the room and the doorway without a threshold. In this place, there are usually two different coatings. If you start gluing tiles from a corner, you can get a kaleidoscope of pieces on the aisle.
Diagonal start of cladding
Therefore, the technology for laying out tiles in a “diagonal” way is slightly different. Laying begins with walkways and areas that will not be blocked by furniture or equipment.
Diagonal tiles on the aisle.
In arbors of irregular shape, when laying diagonally, it is better to bypass the perimeter with a whole tile. And fill the middle, then already, with diagonal rows.
Diagonal tiles in the gazebo.
This will help to avoid the appearance of pieces on the edge of the site and the formation of a cut, not always even edge. Small pieces do not hold well, especially at the edge of steps or platforms. A whole row of tiles around the perimeter also creates a visual frame. A frame in design is always a winning option. Be it a frame or ceiling frieze frame.
Where to start laying tiles diagonally in the garage on the floor is shown
How to measure and cut a tile diagonally.
In the West, for this case, various devices have been invented to facilitate the procedure.
Porcelain stoneware measuring fixtures for trimming
But, often, it's all vanity from scratch. There is nothing easier than directly on the tile to mark with a pencil the points along which the cut of a manual or electric tile cutter must pass.
This idea is more clear in a short video. All videos are short. Without introductions and philosophy. The main essence that complements the text on the site.
Difficult sections of cutting tiles are easier to do with a pre-cut paper stencil.
Details below:
Calculate the consumption of tiles diagonally.
Earlier, in an article on , it has already been said that the consumption of tiles diagonally is the same as with normal installation and is 7-8 percent. And this figure depends on the size of the tile itself and the presence of a complex pattern on it, representing a set of several tiles. The smaller the tile, the less percentage of it goes to cutting.
Price (rates) for laying tiles diagonally.
It is generally accepted to consider this method of laying as increased complexity. Therefore, the cost of this work is somewhat higher than with the usual method. The appreciation can be expressed 1.2 – 1.3. This value can vary and depends on some incomprehensible accidents, currency fluctuations and traditions of a particular area.
With tiles laid diagonally on the floor, you can make an excellent pattern, which is one of the very beautiful and common. Unlike direct laying, you will need a little more materials and the process itself is more difficult, but it has specific advantages in hiding wall irregularities.
Tiling the floor tiles along the diagonal will make it possible to visually enlarge the room and hide wall irregularities
Advantages of diagonal styling
Before you start laying tiles along the diagonal, you need to understand the specifics of this method. First of all, it is necessary to note the advantages and disadvantages of the diagonal orientation of the tiles.
Attention! Diagonal masonry can be made with both square and rectangular tiles.
So what's so great about the diagonal way? Pros:
- Visual increase in space. With a rotary arrangement, the room visually becomes wider. In this case, it is necessary to carefully choose the design and color of the coating.
- Decorative. The effect of diagonal styling is more interesting, as it looks original. In order to increase the effect, combine different colors.
- Hides wall irregularities. In case the walls are not completely parallel, masonry floor tiles along the diagonal makes it possible to hide this.
A laid surface in a diagonal way can be called more interesting and also costly than a direct way.
However, there are also disadvantages of this method, which are associated with the installation:
- Difficulty. Making styling is much more problematic, since it is necessary to correctly maintain the parallel of an inconspicuous diagonal.
- High consumption of tiles. Tiles will be cut diagonally, which increases consumption by 5-10 percent compared to straight laying.
- Tile cutting. It will take a lot of effort to cut the plates.
Necessary materials and tools
To lay tiles at 45 degrees, you need a tool that makes it possible to cut halves along the diagonal
In order for the overall process of diagonal laying to be of high quality, you need to prepare complex tools and stock up on the necessary amount of material. The difficulty will be that a considerable number of cut slabs unsuitable for subsequent use appear. That's why you have to make accurate calculations.
To determine the required number of tiles, it is much better to do this schematically by counting the smaller area from one wall to the other and multiplying by the partitioning index of the site. First of all, whole tiles are calculated, after that it is calculated how many pieces will have to be completed. If possible, try to make two pieces from one tile.
The resulting quantity must be multiplied by 10% by the situation of marriage, inaccuracies in the calculation, the appearance of flaws when cutting.
You will also need the following tools:
- container to prepare the solution;
- spatula (notched, flat);
- glue;
- grout fugue;
- bubble level;
- twine;
- felt-tip pen or chalk for marking;
- roulette;
- spacers and mounting seam crosses;
- rubber hammer;
- tile cutter.
Surface preparation and marking
Laying tiles with a plane builder will be more convenient
The difficulty level of laying is very often set by the quality of the substrate. That is why it is necessary to prepare it. In order for the final result to be achieved without problems, it is necessary to carry out surface alignment:
- The protruding parts are polished.
- The recesses in the base are sealed with cement mortar.
It would be much better to make a new layer of a mixture that levels itself, so that the installation process goes even better.
To do this, a specialized dry composition is mixed in a water mass. After reaching the desired consistency, it is applied to the base and evenly distributed with a roller with needles. It levels the composition itself, and the roller is needed to direct it in the required direction and save it from air bubbles that remain in the solution.
As soon as 3-4 days have passed and the screed has undergone a polymerization process, the surface is treated with primer compositions that will improve the bonding of the tile adhesive composition. Apply impregnation in a thin layer of 1 mm.
On the prepared base, marked lines are to be made, along which it will be possible to lay parallel to the diagonal. It is done like this:
The main thing! In order to carry out accurate marking, it is worth removing all interfering details. It is removed from the perimeter of the walls and the door jamb is removed. However, this process must be done before the surface preparation of the base begins.
- If the room has the shape of a square, then the reference line will be diagonal, which is carried out with the help of twine. You can use more advanced tools, such as a plane builder, but they are not cheap and not everyone has it, so you will need to get by with a primitive rope and chalk.
- Since rooms with directly oriented corners and straight wall surfaces are very rare, it will be necessary to apply the method with the construction of an isosceles triangle. To do this, from the corner of the beginning of the installation of the tile, lines equal in length are laid and connected by a line. This line (the base of the isosceles triangle) will serve as the side of the tiled laying.
Material calculation
Another essential stage of the installation is the calculation. It depends on the qualitative properties of the implementation of this stage whether there are enough materials or not. Purchasing too much material is a waste of cash, and large savings usually result in material shortages that may later be difficult to find on sale.
We put a not very large section to determine the approximate consumption
In order to carry out the calculation, you can use the following methods:
- Online calculators.
- Highly professional programs for tilers: "Tile", " Tile 3D".
- manual method.
Trusting just like that, without checking the calculations, is not worth it to an unknown program: “trust, but verify!”. Moreover, there are two options for manual calculation:
- The area of the room is divided into the area of \u200b\u200bone tile. The resulting amount must be expanded by 10%. If masonry tiles on the floor with their own hands will be made in a rhombus, then the stock must be taken at least 15%.
- A calculation is made for one row of the surface to be lined, after which the resulting quantity is multiplied by the number of rows. You also need to remember about the margin of 15% if masonry rhombus tiles will be implemented.
To calculate the required quantity adhesive composition influenced by the following factors:
- base material;
- surface evenness;
- plate sizes;
- quality adhesive composition.
You can use the average value of the adhesive mixture. To calculate the flow, they work like this. The package indicates the consumption per square meter, which is multiplied by the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, thus obtaining an average consumption value adhesive composition.
Laying technique
Diagonal masonry thinks the beginning is from the center of the room
There are two options for laying ceramic tiles along the diagonal:
- Starting from the center of the room. This method is used if the open laid floor area is located in the center of the room. Put the modules in sectors. The starting main point is set by the intersection of the diagonal lines. The lines divide the entire laying area into 4 sectors. The corner of the first tile should be on the center point.
- Starting from the corner of the room. The first elements will be cut tiles with a triangle shape. To do this, use a tile cutter or angle grinder, which tile cut in the shape of an isosceles triangle.
In general, the general process of applying tiles to a surface is actually no different from laying in a direct way. So it should go in this order:
- The adhesive composition is applied to a small area of the floor and on the other side of the tile.
- Tiles are laid in compliance with the gap between adjacent tiles. In this case, it is necessary to fulfill the parallelism of the line marked earlier.
- Tile slightly pressed onto the composition of the adhesive, the general horizontal level is examined. If necessary, tap with a rubber-based mallet.
- Next comes the next tile, which must be the same horizontal level with others.
The first step of the installation takes place using solid tiles, and trimming and finishing the contour will be done in a few days, when the adhesive dries enough to walk on the tile covering.
The last step will be grouting the tile joints, while it is necessary to choose a grout mixture that will focus on the diagonal arrangement of the modules.
Pay attention to the video on how to lay tiles on the floor with a diagonal orientation: