The energy efficiency of the steam room, intended for all-season use, directly depends on the properties of the materials used to insulate the frame bath. The supporting structures of floors, walls and roofs are frames made of boards and beams, they exhibit low thermal conductivity. The main insulating load is placed on the insulation placed between the horizontal, vertical, inclined frame rods.
The insulating layer will not be effective without a tight and rigid sheathing of the frame, internal and external cladding, a high-quality ceiling, floor and roof. The expected level of thermal insulation can only be achieved if a clean and dry material is used that can maintain the original geometric parameters.
As a prerequisite for the maximum performance of the steam room, 2 important conditions must be met:
- Protection from a humid, hot internal microclimate - a vapor barrier is needed here;
- Penetration of clean outside air - through the gap at the wind barrier.
The cells are filled with insulation and covered with a vapor barrier, moreover, in the floor logs, the membrane will be on top, in the power frame - from the side of the interior, in the attic floor - from the bottom, in the roofing pie - from the side of the attic. In saunas, which are rarely planned to be heated, it is necessary to provide for an external vapor barrier. The outer membrane prevents humid air currents from penetrating inside through the wall (this movement is typical in cases where the outside is warmer than inside). When insulating the walls from the outside, you need to lay a windscreen - it is placed in front of the cladding.
The better to insulate a frame bath: material selection criteria
Due to the structural features of the structure, the correct heat insulator becomes the key to a comfortable and safe use of the steam room. Materials must meet the following requirements:
- resistance to high values of humidity and temperature;
- low thermal conductivity;
- minimal susceptibility to fungal and putrefactive damage;
- environmental Safety.
Mineral heaters have optimal characteristics, in particular, basalt wool - it is durable and does not support combustion. The recreation area and dressing room are often insulated using expanded polystyrene sheets. To increase the effectiveness of the measures taken, a combination of different solutions is practiced.
Types and characteristics of materials for warming a frame bath
Horizontal surfaces are insulated using roll variations, plastic mixtures are also relevant here (they contain a binder, filler and grout), bulk products. To strengthen the pitched roof, it is more convenient to use rolled products.
Wall variations have dimensions of 60x120 cm (these are directly slabs, convenient to install), roll packing is used to strengthen the roof and ceilings, its width exceeds 1 m, the length can reach 4-8 m. The main volume is formed by air accumulated between solid inorganic fibers, products can have a thickness of 5-20 cm. Loose material can be glued to foil - this is how it is protected from high temperatures and shattering.
Benefits of mineral wool:
- low dead weight;
- non-susceptibility to decay (for this, the sheathing must be airtight, otherwise organic dust will get into the insulation);
- vapor permeability;
- low thermal conductivity;
- durability - the service life reaches 50 years.
In order for the products to retain their shape, not to deform during transportation and installation, binders are introduced into it - synthetic resins, bitumen or starch. Such additives are flammable, they can contain carcinogens, phenol and formaldehyde, which can cause serious diseases.
Mineral slabs can be made of stone, glass, slag raw materials. The first category - basalt wool - is the most environmentally friendly, exhibits low thermal conductivity, but needs a high-quality frame. Slag wool and glass wool cannot be used in the construction of a bath.
Reed slabs
These are lightweight non-combustible products with high thermal insulation properties. Depending on the production technology and brand of the manufacturer, the slabs can reach 15 cm in thickness. The material is of natural origin, and therefore experts recommend pre-treating it with a solution of ferrous sulfate - it will protect the structure from insect reproduction.
Foamed synthetic materials
- loyal value;
- efficiency and ease of installation;
- immunity to moisture;
- low dead weight;
- low thermal conductivity, which has a beneficial effect on the quality of thermal insulation.
These synthetic varieties are not recommended for use in those areas of the saunas and baths where high temperatures are likely to prevail. This method of insulation works well in strengthening the walls located at a distance from the stove, for example, in a washing room, a rest room, a dressing room.
A mixture of sawdust and plaster
Sawdust and mixed in a 10: 1 ratio, this budget solution exhibits impressive thermal insulation performance. Cement can be added to the mixture in the same proportions; along with gypsum, it serves as a binder. Air is retained between the particles of carefully dried sawdust, which ensures low thermal conductivity.
The disadvantage of this solution is the need to provide ideal isolation from moisture and steam, otherwise putrefactive processes will quickly spread. Compared to slabs and prefabricated blocks, laying this option is more troublesome.
Ecowool
It consists of cellulose fibers, a fire retardant and an antiseptic; during production, protective additives can be added to it, as a result of which ecowool manifests itself in different ways in operation: it can be odorous and short-lived, or safe and persistent. With use, the material decreases in volume, and this is a significant disadvantage, since as a result of shrinkage of raw materials in the frames, voids are formed, and heat-shielding properties are lost. We must not forget that fibers are capable of absorbing moisture intensively.
The reasons for the spread of ecowool are the lack of baring, environmental friendliness and full-fledged sound insulation.
Backfill insulation - expanded clay
Loose material is optimal for strengthening horizontal frame structures. Expanded clay is safe from the point of view of environmental friendliness and the absence of hazardous chemical components; it is a heat-absorbing and lightweight insulator. A bath, insulated with expanded clay, needs to be heated longer (compared to walls filled with fibrous raw materials), while the steam room will cool down much more slowly.
Expanded clay pores have a closed structure, due to which the process of moisture absorption is manifested only slightly. But you need to remember that wet bulk raw materials will have to be dried for a long time. Since expanded clay is heavier and thicker than mineral slabs, it is necessary to lay a more powerful foundation and a strong frame during construction.
How to insulate a frame bath with your own hands: the correct order of work
To achieve the expected effect and create conditions for energy saving, a thorough cladding of vertical and horizontal surfaces is organized - in stages from the inside and outside.
Floor
Most often, a columnar or pile foundation serves as the basis for a frame bath, the assembly starts with laying a log. Moisture-resistant OSB (rough particle boards) are fixed to their lower surface. Here it is necessary to identify in advance the optimal zones for the introduction of functional openings, such as a sewer, an exhaust hood.
- laying windscreens and waterproofing in the form of roofing material, special polyethylene and other modern materials, the joints are sealed using adhesive tape;
- then thermal insulation is placed - the space between the logs is filled with slab or bulk raw materials;
- the insulation layer is protected with OSB;
- the second layer is laid on top, you can use the same material or take dense foam, extruded polystyrene foam in the form of plates;
- in areas with high humidity, for example, in a washing and steam room, you need to equip two layers of insulation.
Here, the best option for a finished floor will be a tile, in dry rooms - a tongue-and-groove board. If desired, a heating system can be introduced to make it comfortable to walk barefoot.
Walls
The frame bath is organized after the assembly of the basic beam structure. Experts emphasize that at this stage, the best assistant are basalt slabs placed in the space between the blocks. To minimize the chance of gaps forming, it is best to use roll materials in tandem with dense mats. It is important to follow the installation technology exactly so that the material fits as tightly as possible: gaps and defects are potential sources of heat loss.
Next, a vapor barrier material is fixed - glassine, plastic film, foil. Glassine attracts with environmental friendliness and loyal cost, but the film will cost the cheapest. Foil-clad PPE not only protects the insulation from moisture penetration, but also allows you to save on heating, as it returns radiant energy.
The final stage is the finishing of the internal walls: between the vapor barrier and the cladding, it is necessary to set aside a ventilation gap of up to 2 cm.Horizontal fixation of the lining is optimal - in this case it will be easier to replace the lower rows, which are more in contact with water and quickly become unusable.
The area around the furnace needs special attention: it should be finished with materials with high thermal resistance - basalt fabric, isolon and their analogues. The fire protection is installed either over the decorative cladding or directly on the vapor barrier. A convenient and reliable solution is a full-fledged brick screen with refractory properties.
The outside wall cake is formed from waterproofing materials and decorative facade cladding. Here, the finish serves as an additional thermal protection and enhances the strength of the bath.
Ceiling
To strengthen the ceiling structures, it is customary to use mineral wool slabs and rolls; they are mounted in almost the same way as in the case of walls. Materials are arranged in the following sequence:
- waterproofing layer;
- insulation;
- vapor barrier membrane;
- decorative cladding.
An alternative method of thermal insulation is organized using a sawdust mixture: it is laid in the ceiling system from the attic side. The result is a highly effective and durable insulation without gaps and blemishes, while minimum financial investments are required. Usually, all manipulations aimed at heat conservation are carried out systematically during the construction of a bath.
External insulation of the frame structure
Thermal insulation of the bath outside helps to minimize heat loss: a protective layer on the facade helps to ensure full protection of the frame structure from the effects of wind and precipitation. The simplest option would be to use foam sheets - they are fixed on a special stable glue, in this case, you can use any finish. The only condition is the choice of a non-combustible type of foam.
Usually, such a steam room does not provide for thermal insulation of door and window openings: you just need to fit the frame to the frame bindings, seal the joints and cracks, paying special attention to the area around the chimney. If the building has windows, it is advisable to purchase double, triple structures based on energy-saving glasses.
Frame structures require insulation, especially if this applies to buildings such as a bath with a steam room or a sauna. Since their direct functional purpose includes maintaining a high temperature for a long time, then the design features must comply with these requirements.
Thorough warming of a bath or sauna excludes heat loss in the room, helps to maintain a high temperature for a long time.
Based on practical observations, insulated structures heat up and warm up faster and cool down more slowly. These parameters save money on fuel, which pays for the costs of the work performed on the organization of vapor barrier and insulation.
Correctly executed waterproofing prevents an increased negative effect of moisture on the tree and the frame bath will remain in its original state for a long time.
Warming of a frame bath begins with vapor barrier
The material for waterproofing should be selected with a high threshold for resistance to high temperatures. Such materials include:
Metallic foil - creates the effect of a thermos, combines the functions of an insulation and a reflector, does not let water through.
- Roofing material - has a low cost, but due to its high weight, it is inconvenient to install. It is good as an addition to insulation, but when heated, it gives off an unpleasant smell of fused resin.
- Parchment is harmless, does not emit odors, but has low strength. During installation, it often breaks, which cannot but affect the quality of the waterproofing.
- Plastic wrap is the most common and inexpensive way to keep moisture out. With large dimensions, it has low weight, flexible structure, which greatly facilitates installation when covering large areas.
- Foil - does not allow water to pass through. Adds extra points to the coefficient of insulation, creates the effect of a thermos.
With a combination of several types of waterproofing materials and the absence of joints, a high-quality vapor barrier and protection against premature decay of wood is obtained when insulating a frame bath. Heat-resistant silicone sealants are used to weld the resulting seams.
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The choice of insulation for a frame bath
When choosing heaters, one should focus on their behavior when exposed to high temperatures and high humidity, and not on thermal insulation characteristics. This is due to the fact that when the bath or steam room warms up, substances harmful to health will be released.
The following materials are currently on the market:
- Synthetic materials - plates of foam, polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene. Slabs or rolled version of mineral wool or ecowool. All options are lightweight, which cannot but facilitate their installation.
- Reed slabs - have good characteristics as heat insulators, fireproof and lightweight. Dimensions and thickness vary by manufacturer.
- Wood sawdust mixed with gypsum, cement or clay - the proportions are the same for all options - 10 to 1. A very inexpensive option, but it should be used with caution and not in all parts of the bath.
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Installation of the insulation layer is carried out according to the following scheme:
- a vapor barrier is laid on the ceiling boards;
- insulation with a thickness of at least 15 cm is laid;
- the outer sheathing of boards is laid on the logs on top of the insulation.
If foam or a similar insulation is used in one layer, then the joints must be foamed with polyurethane foam. When laying the insulation in several rows, it is necessary to ensure that the seams of the layers do not coincide. When using a sawdust mixture, it must be evenly distributed over the entire surface of the ceiling, filling all existing cavities.
What to do with the stove when insulating a frame bath. An additional brick fire shield must be laid out between the oven and the wall. This measure will protect the insulation and finish from heat and possible damage. In this section of the wall, asbestos slabs will be the best insulation. As a decoration, you can use plaster products, which can be glued with heat-resistant glue or mortar.
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Insulation of the floor of the frame bath
This is the most important and costly step in the process of warming a bath. In those parts of the bath where washing is not provided, you can do only with expanded clay bedding, insulation and a double layer of waterproofing. But this is not a very suitable option, since the situations are different. Open access to water and the absence of stacks, even in such rooms, can lead to premature decay of wooden floor parts.
The best option is to add a concrete screed to this structure on top of the waterproofing and organize a slope for the water drain on it. In dry rooms, a bathhouse is built on top of a concrete screed, and then boards are laid. In direct wash rooms, concrete screeds can be used for floor tiles and rubber bath mats.
It is also possible to arrange a wooden floor, but the boards are laid with small gaps so that water flows freely to the stack and does not linger on the surface. For convenience, when walking, solid or cellular rubber mats are laid on the floor.
Thermal insulation of the bath, and even more so the frame must be done correctly. The material for insulating the frame structure must be chosen environmentally friendly and non-combustible, while with high heat-saving properties. How to insulate a frame bath correctly and choose the optimal material, you can find out by reading the article to the end.
A frame bath without additional wall insulation will be cold and it will be impossible to use it.
Insulation for a frame bath is best used in the form of mats.
If you choose the wrong insulation or put it in an insufficient layer, then the functionality of the steam room will be lost. Materials for warming a frame bath are natural and artificial. The bathhouse and synthetic insulation are incompatible, of course, the design will be cheap, but some may emit harmful vapors when heated. Natural include:
- Woody fibrous.
- Basaltic.
- Linen.
To artificial:
- Fiberglass.
- Expanded polystyrene.
According to their shape, types are chosen for a frame bath: tiled or matte. A roll is also fine, but it will be more difficult to fit it into a frame cake. Any beginner can cut and lay insulation in the form of slabs or mats, it is enough to understand the technology and finish reading this article.
Wood fiber insulation
Wood fiber insulation is made from sawn timber waste. The basis of the material is wood fibers, which are bonded with various synthetic fibers. It is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin when styled. The material is made by recycling sawn timber. It is a misconception that such a heater is made from waste paper. Due to the ability to absorb moisture and also quickly give it away, the frame bath will breathe like a full-fledged wooden one. One of the brightest representatives of wood fiber insulation is ecowool, the price of which is from 120 rubles. / kg.
The main disadvantage is precisely the ability to absorb moisture. If the hood in the bath is performed with errors, then the humidity can linger for a long time in the structure of the walls and they will begin to rot.
Basalt insulation
Basalt wool is made from mineral fibers by binding them with an adhesive. The main advantages are:
- High heat-saving properties.
- Does not burn, can withstand temperatures up to 900 ° C.
- It does not lose its quality characteristics over the years, therefore the service life is more than 20 years.
- Increases sound insulation.
- Does not absorb moisture and does not retain it in the frame structure.
The main disadvantage of the material was discovered at the end of 2014. Previously, it was considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. It turned out that the adhesive used for gluing basalt fibers can emit insignificant vapors of formaldehyde. Whether or not the reaction intensifies during heating of the steam room, no studies have been carried out.
Linen fiber insulation
Linen mats began to be used not so long ago. The material is made from compressed flax fibers. There are no additives in the composition, for example, formalin. the material is completely environmentally friendly and is capable of absorbing - releasing moisture. And due to the dense pressing, the boards have a high ability to save heat.
The main disadvantage of the slabs is the insufficient test of time and rodents. Mice love to build nests in flax fiber and gnaw holes in the walls. Over time, the bath will lose its thermal insulation properties.
Fiberglass insulation
Glass wool emits fine fiberglass particles during operation. which are dangerous to human health. Glass wool is made from glass fibers bonded with synthetic glue. It is difficult to work with the material with your own hands, since when the fibers get into the air, they settle on the skin and enter the respiratory tract. They can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.
Glass wool has no less advantages:
- Does not burn.
- The price is low.
- Easy to assemble.
- Possesses high thermal insulation.
- Creates a slight soundproofing.
If the choice fell on glass wool, then all work on the insulation of the frame bath must be performed in protective clothing and a respirator.
Expanded polystyrene for insulation
Polyfoam can be used to insulate the walls of a frame bath. Expanded polystyrene is made by foaming polystyrene. Moreover, the more and less air bubbles in the material, the higher its heat-insulating properties. One of the brightest representatives of polystyrene. It is possible to insulate the walls of a frame bath with polystyrene foam, but it is not recommended. Moreover, insulate the ceiling and the space around the chimneys. Expanded polystyrene has a high fire hazard. It ignites from any spark. If the structure is insulated with foam, then the cake must be protected. The material has a number of advantages:
- Low price. (The cheapest option for insulation).
- Waterproof.
Any of the listed materials is used to insulate a frame bath. The main thing is to complete the installation, observing all the rules.
Do-it-yourself installation of insulation
There are two ways to insulate a frame bath:
- Classic pie. When the insulation is laid between the outer boards and the interior trim.
- Additional. Usually done from the facade.
Classic insulation
The classic cake for warming a frame bath is made from the inside of the building. Classic insulation consists of a pie: vapor barrier, insulation, vapor barrier, interior decoration.
Steam - waterproofing is performed from the inside of the bath after boards or panels of sawdust are fixed on the outside. The vapor barrier is laid directly on them and the frame beam. It is necessary to mount the material with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The joints are glued with tape. You can attach the material directly to the tree with a construction stapler.
The insulation is placed in the formed cells. The standard thickness of the insulation is 50 mm and 100 mm. If the bath will be used all year round, then take 100 mm and fit in two layers. This layer will be enough to keep the steam room warm in winter temperatures down to -35 ° C. For southern regions, one layer of 100 mm is sufficient.
The bathhouse, used only in summer seasons, does not require thorough insulation, so it is enough to lay 1–2 layers of 50 mm.
When installing, the joints should be as small as possible, and in places where the insulation does not fit, you need to protect it with polyurethane foam. The second layer of slabs is laid on the first so that the joints of the upper one do not coincide with the lower ones. You can fix the insulation with special fungus screws. They have a wide head that will securely attach the material to the wall. If foam is chosen as insulation, then it can be glued to the wall with ordinary tile glue.
The next layer is again the vapor barrier. This layer is missed by many, but it is necessary when using a material that absorbs water, such as ecowool.
Foil-clad membrane material is used as waterproofing. It is laid with foil to the steam room, the joints are sealed with foil tape. Waterproofing with such a material will not only play a protective function against moisture, but will also help keep heat in the steam room, reflecting it.
External insulation of the frame structure
Polyfoam is attached to the facade of the bath using an adhesive composition. External insulation is optional. For a frame bath, it is better to make a ventilated facade, so condensation will not accumulate under the facade cladding and the walls will last longer. Usually, the facade of the bath is insulated with polystyrene foam.
Initially, a crate is made of metal profiles or 40x40 mm timber on the walls. Before installation, the timber is covered with an antiseptic or liquid glass, which penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from various harmful effects.
The step of the lathing depends on the width of the insulation sheet. If the foam is 60 cm wide, then the step must correspond to it. You can fix the foam to the walls with special screws or glue. The material is lightweight and can be glued alone.
If the insulation of the facade is additional, then it is not necessary to take too thick insulation. It is not necessary to mount the vapor barrier on the foam, it will repel water, and air does not penetrate through the material. A counter-lathing is attached to the lathing and finishing is mounted, for example siding or timber imitation panels.
Before insulation, the outer skin of the frame and the structure itself are covered with antiseptics. If this is not done, then any ingress of moisture will be critical for the bath.
The design of the insulation resembles a multi-layer cake, which should not be excluded from the layers-stages. It is not difficult to insulate a frame bath with your own hands, but it is laborious. Not everyone is able to do the finishing of the entire structure with their own hands, so you can contact the specialists. On average, insulation of a frame bath in Russia costs from 200 rubles / m². In terms of the size of the walls, the service is not cheap. It's cheaper to do everything yourself, but you can work gradually.
Frame construction technology came to Russia from the west. The conceptual difference in the approach to the construction of buildings for a long time did not allow the technology to gain a strong position, and was considered as a pre-fabricated temporary housing and auxiliary buildings.
Nevertheless, over time, more and more attention began to be paid to the frame construction technique. Previously built houses have shown reliability and durability. The speed of construction, low demands on quality due to low weight, good heat saving, the possibility of construction made this method of construction popular and widely known. Data contributes to the popularity of these houses and baths.
A bathhouse built using frame technology is not inferior in quality to more expensive building options (for comparison, it is devoted to a comparison of frame and timber baths, as well as about), despite the fact that in addition to saving on the construction of the bath itself, a solid gain is obtained. In practice, it has been found that the roof of the bathhouse causes the greatest calculations, one must ensure that it does not turn out to be excessively heavy. Lightweight walls are of little use for heavy loads and the weight of the roof must match the wall's capacity.
Arrangement of the walls of the frame bath
The wall of the frame bath is a wooden frame, the voids of which are filled with insulation, lined with sheet materials or clapboard. This design perfectly stores heat, does not require heating costs, is easily repaired, and local and spot repairs are allowed. It is important not to confuse frame and, these are two different construction technologies.
The advantages also include the almost absolute absence of shrinkage, which makes it possible to carry out the final finishing immediately during construction. Requirements for the composition of the walls are moisture resistance and the absence of release of toxic substances when heated.
Advice! You should also carefully monitor fire safety, since the traditional source of heat in a bath is a stove, an element that is risky in itself. Therefore, it is advisable to use non-flammable and non-toxic materials.
Frame bath wall cake
The multi-layer construction of walls with insulation, vapor barrier or, as an option, a multifunctional membrane, received the name "pie" among experts. The device of such a cake is the main reason for the abundance of advantages and useful properties of frame walls.
The composition of the cake usually includes:
- Beam 150 to 50. Edged board is often used.
- Mineral insulation located in the spaces between the wooden parts. The most preferred option is mineral wool slabs.
- Oriented strand board (OSB), the thickness must be at least 15 mm.
- Horizontal lathing.
- Layer for horizontal lathing.
- Waterproofing layer (or multifunctional membrane).
- Vertical lathing.
- Exterior decoration.
- Steam release material.
- Interior decoration. Most often it is a lining.
Photo
Option 1
Option 2 (easier)
Option 3 (the easiest one)
Such a set allows you to keep warm, does not get wet, is weatherproof from the outside and from the absorption of water vapor from the inside. The effectiveness of the cake has been tested many times and there is no doubt about its reliability.
Warming procedure
The process of warming begins after the construction of a frame made of wood, then a cake of the wall of the frame bath is created. The first step is to fill the voids between the frame boards with insulation. The material is cut exactly to size and fits into the gaps of the swivel.
Important! It is necessary to carefully adjust the pieces of insulation. All cracks and voids must be additionally filled with polyurethane foam in order to avoid the formation of cold bridges.
Then a vapor barrier layer is attached from the inside. foil inside... This arrangement contributes to the rapid heating of the inner lining, due to which condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet from the inside. The inner lining is installed on a lathing attached to the frame bars, which provides a gap between the inner lining and the foil. On the outside, a layer of membrane or wind protection is laid. A crate is installed on top of it, on which the outer skin is mounted. Between the outer sheathing and the insulation, due to the crate, it is obtained air gap, contributing to the drying of condensate.
Protection of thermal insulation from moisture
As already mentioned, moisture protection is a vapor barrier layer reinforced from the inside of the wall. As an insulator, they use ordinary aluminum foil, or foil on kraft paper, which is somewhat easier to install. The strips of the vapor barrier (or membrane) are supposed to be interconnected with aluminum tape to obtain a sealed shut-off. A similar film of wind insulation is used on the outside to protect it from moisture from the outside.
The thickness of the walls of the frame bath
The main value is the width of the frame boards. Recommended - 150 mm... Adding to this the thickness of two layers of lathing, the inner clapboard and the outer cladding, we obtain the total wall thickness, of the order of 250 - 270 mm. The dimensions are arbitrary, in each case the choice of the builder may fall on materials of other thicknesses. The main condition remains the observance of the principle of operation of the cake, which provides insulation and excludes the effect of condensation.
Prompt: there are opinions that 10 centimeters of insulation is enough, in which case, the above can be reduced by 5 cm.
Insulation of the walls of the frame bath
Heat protection of the ceiling passage of the chimney
The chimney passage through the ceiling slab must be equipped with a passage assembly. Even when using a special sandwich pipe on the chimney no contact with wooden parts is allowed.
On sale are ready-made nodes of the passage, which are a sheet of metal with a hole for a pipe and a box surrounding it. A square hole is cut in the ceiling to fit the box plus a layer of insulator.
The bushing, lined with a layer of insulator, is inserted into the hole, which is also pre-punched around the entire perimeter with an insulator, and fastened to the screws. The chimney, wrapped in an asbestos cord, is passed through the hole and taken out. The box of the passage unit from above can be covered with expanded clay.
The construction of a bathhouse using frame technology is an economical, effective and quick solution to the issue. The result will be a fully functional sauna that has almost half the heating time of a conventional wooden sauna and has lower fuel costs. Such properties make the frame construction technology the most profitable and preferable. More than enough information is given here about the construction of the walls of a frame bath. Now it's up to you and a bathhouse made of boards and insulation will be able to delight you and your household.
Where to order
The demand for frame baths provides a wide range of offers from companies. Some businesses,.
In contact with
Frame bath - pre-fabricated construction. It is built from wooden beams. Such a structure is easy to move from place to place, install on wooden piles, adjust the distance to the ground, and equip water drainage. To repair a bathhouse or replace building elements, it is not required to disassemble the entire structure. Insulation of a frame bath is part of the construction process. The walls of the bathhouse are a pie with vapor barrier, waterproofing and a layer of insulation. Baths are insulated during construction.
The procedure for warming a frame bath
Insulation of the frame bath should start from the walls and floor, gradually rising. The ceiling is insulated last, the steam room too, since this is the inside of the building. Before starting work on the insulation of the bath, you need to install external walls. For example, sheathe the frame with clapboard or other wood, and after thermal insulation, install a ventilated facade. This will help draw moisture out.
The bath floor should have a cake design. First, the crate is installed, which must be covered with a vapor barrier, then the insulation is mounted, then the waterproofing and topcoat.
The insulation of the ceiling in the bath is similar to the floor, only for the vapor barrier you need to install a foil covering. It traps heat and reflects it off the ceiling. Also, near the ceiling, an exhaust hood or an opening for air and condensation must be provided.
When insulating a steam room, you need to pay attention to the area near the stove. It requires additional protection from moisture and fire. In addition to insulation and waterproofing, foil or a thin layer of aluminum is laid on the walls around the stove, and then heat-resistant brick.
Insulation of the walls of the frame bath
Before starting work, you need to make sure that the thickness of the frame rails is at least 150 millimeters. You can lay the insulation right between them: the structure will be lighter, but hardly more durable. If you plan to use the bathhouse in winter, you should sheathe the frame with clapboard from the outside.
Then lay a layer of vapor barrier, grabbing the frame battens and lining. The vapor absorber can be a foil coating, polymer and membrane PVC films. You can attach them to the tree with a stapler. Mount the crate on top, lay insulation between it and the frame.
The installation of the insulation starts from the bottom up along the perimeter of the bath frame. Depending on the material, you can attach it to the wall using glue or dowels with screws. For some heaters, for example, polyurethane foam, fasteners are not needed, since the material has adhesive properties. The insulation layer must be at least 100 millimeters. In some cases, it is possible to install a double layer of thermal insulation of 50 millimeters. Place foil between layers for extra protection.
The gaps and gaps between the insulation plates must be closed with polyurethane foam. Then proceed with the installation of the waterproofing. To do this, it is also worth taking the foil material and attaching it over the lathing. Close all joints and gaps with foil scraps. For finishing the walls, take the lining and close the waterproofing with it.
Before insulating the walls, check again the places with hoods or air outlets. They need to be placed at the top of the wall. After insulation, treat the holes with polyurethane foam.
Insulation of the floor in a frame bath
You need to start warming the bath with the installation of wooden plates on the outside of the frame. Drill holes in them for ventilation and one large hole for draining water. Then lay a layer of waterproofing - PVC membrane. It must completely cover the frame and the wooden slabs. It can be glued on. After that, put a layer of insulation between the frame rails. It can be polyurethane foam. Due to its physical and chemical properties, it is attached to the surface without glue. Spraying layer - 25-40 millimeters. It should be taken into account that after spraying, the PUF will increase in volume. After that, close the insulation with a thin wooden plate and leave a gap of 2-3 millimeters between the materials. This will help the condensate evaporate. For additional protection, lay a layer of polystyrene or expanded polystyrene on top of the wooden board and secure it with glue. At this stage, pay attention to the plum. Place sealant around it. Then cover the entire floor with foil-coated waterproofing.
The topcoat can be both wood treated with antifungal agents, and polymer-cement screed with tiles.
Insulation of the ceiling of a frame bath
The thermal insulation device for the ceiling of a frame bath is similar to wall insulation. First, you need to install a PVC membrane that will remove moisture to the outside, then a layer of insulation, then a foil covering - it will help keep the heat inside. The membrane must be attached to the timber beams using a stapler and foil tape. After that, install the crate, which will help to evenly distribute the insulation around the perimeter of the ceiling. Insert thermal insulation between the battens of the battens, a layer of 50 to 100 millimeters. The insulation should be uniform without gaps. If there are any, cover them with polyurethane foam. Then attach the vapor barrier: foil or thermal film. Install wooden slats on top. This will allow the material to attach more tightly.
The final stage will be the finishing cladding. For this, facing panels, linden, larch or pine lining are suitable. It is better to fasten heavy materials to the ceiling using dowels and self-tapping screws, and light ones - with polyurethane glue or a stapler. A stainless steel screen must be installed above the stove. This will protect the ceiling from deformation and overheating. The same should be done on the floor around the oven.
Thermal insulation of a steam room (steam room) of a frame bath
To insulate a steam room, you need to follow the same instructions as for insulating a bath. The steam room is distinguished by a high concentration of moisture and an oven. To protect the walls from mold and mildew, you need to install a double layer of waterproofing. Also, the insulation layer can be doubled. Place a PVC membrane between the layers. It is worth paying attention to the area around the stove, chimney and windows. Close all gaps and cracks with insulation and sealant, install a foil covering around the entire perimeter of the steam room, and then close it with clapboard.
Materials for warming a frame bath
For thermal insulation of the bath, you can use different materials: from mineral wool to polyurethane foam. When choosing a heater, you need to pay attention to its properties:
- low flammability class;
- low coefficient of thermal conductivity;
- the least moisture permeability;
- environmental friendliness;
- long service life.
PPU
Closed-cell polyurethane foam has a water absorption rate of 5% of the volume, therefore it is suitable for insulating a frame bath. Its thermal conductivity is 0.022 W / m * K - one of the lowest among materials for thermal insulation. PU foam does not absorb moisture, is not subject to decay and thinning. It is sprayed using a special technique in a single layer. High adhesion allows laying not only on horizontal but also on vertical surfaces. To insulate a bath, it is important that the insulation is non-combustible. The flammability class of polyurethane foam varies depending on the requirements. This polymer does not emit harmful substances into the atmosphere, even in rooms with high temperatures. Its service life reaches 30 years or more. Learn more about the equipment and components of polyurethane foam.
The thermal insulation properties of the foam are comparable to those of polyurethane foam. The thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.038 W / m * K. Polyfoam also does not absorb moisture, it is resistant to salt solutions. It is often used to insulate residential buildings and various structures. However, it can deteriorate from acetone, kerosene and oil. It has a high flammability class and is highly flammable. When burning, it emits a pungent toxic odor. Styrofoam can be used to insulate the floor in a bath, but you should remember about precautions and avoid overheating. The service life of the foam is from 10 to 20 years.
Output
Warming a frame bath requires an integrated approach. You need to start from the floor, going up. A combination of several materials can be used. When insulating, make sure that there are no cracks and gaps in the frame structure.
If you do not know which materials to choose for warming a bath, you cannot calculate their consumption and are looking for a suitable team, use the service on the website. More than 630 teams of performers are registered, ready to help you. to contact a consultant. He will tell you about the cost of the work and help you choose a team ..