You can purchase an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but not achieve the expected warmth and comfort in the house. The reason for this may well be improperly selected final heat exchange devices. indoors, as which traditionally most often act as radiators. But even the assessments that seem to be quite suitable according to all criteria sometimes do not justify the hopes of their owners. Why?
And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators are connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show those heat transfer output parameters that are announced by manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what are the advantages and disadvantages of these or those options. Let's see what technological methods are used to optimize some circuits.
Necessary information for the correct choice of the radiator connection scheme
In order for further explanations to become more understandable to an inexperienced reader, it makes sense to first consider what a standard heating radiator is in principle. The term “standard” is used because there are also completely “exotic” batteries, but their consideration is not included in the plans of this publication.
The basic device of a heating radiator
So, if you depict a conventional heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:
From the layout point of view, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow you to vary this amount, adding and decreasing, depending on the required thermal total power or based on the maximum allowable assembly dimensions. To do this, a threaded connection is provided between the sections using special couplings (nipples) with the necessary seal. Other radiators of this possibility do not imply their sections are connected “tightly” or even represent a single metal structure. But in the light of our topic, this difference is of fundamental importance.
But what is important is, so to speak, the hydraulic part of the battery. All sections are united by common manifolds located horizontally at the top (pos. 2) and below (pos. 3). And at the same time, in each of the sections, these collectors are connected by a vertical channel (pos. 4) for the movement of the coolant.
Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram, they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper manifold, G3 and G4 for the lower one.
In the vast majority of connection schemes used in the heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always involved. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second - to the "return", that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The remaining two entrances are blocked by plugs or other locking devices.
And here's what's important - the efficiency of the expected heat transfer of the heating radiator largely depends on how these two inputs, supply and return, are mutually located.
Note : Of course, the scheme is given with a significant simplification, and in many types of radiators it may have its own characteristics. So, for example, in cast-iron batteries of the MS-140 type, familiar to everyone, each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels, in principle, repeats the hydraulic scheme shown. So everything that will be said below applies equally to them.
Where is the supply pipe, and where is the "return"?
It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary at least to know in which direction the coolant is moving. In other words, where is the supply, and where is the “return”. And the fundamental difference can already be hidden in the very type of heating system - it can be single-pipe or
Features of a one-pipe system
This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings, it is quite popular in single-story individual construction. Its wide demand is primarily based on the fact that much fewer pipes are required during creation, and the volume of installation work is reduced.
If explained as simply as possible, then this system is a single pipe passing from the supply pipe to the boiler inlet pipe (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), on which the series-connected heating radiators seem to be “strung”.
On the scale of one level (floor), it might look something like this:
It is quite obvious that the "return" of the first radiator in the "chain" becomes the supply of the next one - and so on, until the end of this closed circuit. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the temperature of the coolant is steadily decreasing, and this is one of the most significant drawbacks of such a system.
It is also possible the location of a single-pipe circuit, which is typical for buildings with several floors. This approach was commonly practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, it can also be found in private houses with several floors. This should also not be forgotten if, say, the house went to the owners from the old owners, that is, with the wiring of the heating circuits already installed.
Two options are possible here, shown below in the diagram, respectively, under the letters "a" and "b".
Prices for popular heating radiators
- Option "a" is called a riser with an upper coolant supply. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler), the pipe rises freely to the highest point of the riser, and then sequentially passes down through all the radiators. That is, the hot coolant is supplied directly to the batteries in the direction from top to bottom.
- Option "b" - single-pipe wiring with bottom feed. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant passes a series of radiators. Then the direction of the flow changes to the opposite, the coolant passes through another string of batteries until it enters the "return" collector.
The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a single-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the coolant, is even more pronounced.
Thus, if you have a single-pipe system installed in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators, it is imperative to clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.
The secrets of the popularity of the heating system "Leningradka"
Despite the rather significant shortcomings, single-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this - which is described in detail in a separate article of our portal. And one more publication is devoted to that element, without which single-pipe systems are not able to work normally.
What if the system is two-pipe?
A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to manage, better amenable to fine adjustments. But this is against the background of the fact that more material is required to create it, and installation work is becoming larger.
As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply pipe and the return pipe are essentially manifolds to which the corresponding pipes of each of the radiators are connected. The obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply pipe-collector is maintained almost the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).
This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:
In this case, the supply riser is muffled from above, as is the "return" pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.
Here it is important to understand one nuance correctly. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean at all that the system itself is a two-pipe system. For example, with vertical wiring, there may be such a picture:
Such an arrangement can mislead an inexperienced owner in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still single-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of coolant.
aluminum radiator prices
aluminum radiator
It's different if the connection looks like this:
The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes - supply and return. That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.
There are other two-pipe connection schemes. For example, the so-called collector (it is also called "beam" or "star"). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the pipes of the circuit wiring secretly, for example, under the floor covering.
In such cases, a collector node is placed in a certain place, and from it already has separate supply and return pipes for each of the radiators. But at its core, it's still a two-pipe system.
Why is all this being told? And to the fact that if the system is two-pipe, then in order to select the radiator connection scheme, it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is the supply manifold, and which is connected to the "return".
But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive for a single-pipe system, does not play a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes into the supply and into the "return".
By the way, even in the conditions of a not very large house, a combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe system was used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an extension, several radiators connected according to the single-pipe principle are located. And this means that in order to choose a connection scheme, it is important not to get confused, and to individually evaluate each heat exchange point: what will be decisive for it - the direction of the flow in the pipe or the relative position of the pipes-collectors of the supply and "return".
If such clarity is achieved, it is possible to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.
Schemes for connecting radiators to the circuit and evaluating their effectiveness
All of the above was a kind of "prelude" to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how radiators can be connected to the pipes of the circuit, and which method gives the maximum heat transfer efficiency.
As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are activated, and two more are muffled. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?
A few more preliminary words. What are the "motivating reasons" for the movement of the coolant through the channels of the radiator.
- This is, firstly, the dynamic pressure of the liquid created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume if conditions are created for this (there are no air pockets). But it is quite clear that, like any stream, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
- Secondly, the temperature difference (and, accordingly, the density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself also becomes the “driving force”. Hotter streams tend to rise, trying to displace the cooled ones.
The combination of these forces ensures the flow of coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection scheme, the overall picture can vary quite a lot.
Prices for cast iron radiators
cast iron radiator
Diagonal connection, infeed from above
Such a scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their capabilities to the fullest. Usually, when calculating a heating system, it is she who is taken as a “unit”, and one or another correction factor will be introduced for all the others.
It is quite obvious that a priori, the coolant cannot meet any obstacles with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the pipe of the upper manifold, flows evenly through the vertical channels from the upper manifold to the lower one. As a result, the entire heat exchange area of the radiator is heated evenly, and the maximum heat transfer of the battery is achieved.
One-way connection, feed from above
Very common scheme - this is how radiators are usually mounted in a single-pipe system in the risers of high-rise buildings with an upper supply, or on descending branches - with a lower supply.
In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the radiator itself is not too long. But if there are a lot of sections in the battery, then the appearance of negative moments is not excluded.
It is quite likely that the kinetic energy of the coolant will be insufficient for the flow to fully pass through the upper collector to the very end. The liquid is looking for "easy ways", and the bulk of the flow begins to pass through the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation of a stagnation area in the “peripheral zone”, the temperature of which will be lower than in the region adjacent to the side of the tie-in.
Even with normal dimensions of radiators along the length, one usually has to put up with a loss of thermal power of about 3÷5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency can be even lower. In this case, it is better to apply either the first scheme, or use special methods for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.
One-way connection, infeed from below
The scheme cannot be called effective in any way, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing single-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the supply is from below. On the ascending branch, all the batteries in the riser are most often built in this way. and, probably, this is the only slightly justified case of its use.
For all, it seems, the similarity with the previous one, the shortcomings here are only exacerbated. In particular, the occurrence of a dead zone in the side of the radiator remote from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easily explained. Not only will the coolant look for the shortest and freest path, the difference in density will also contribute to its upward trend. And the periphery can either “freeze” or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.
The loss of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20÷22%. That is, unless absolutely necessary, it is not recommended to resort to it. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.
Bidirectional bottom connection
Such a scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of hiding the supply pipe from visibility as much as possible. However, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.
It is quite obvious that the easiest way for the coolant is the lower collector. Its upward propagation along vertical channels occurs solely due to the difference in density. But this flow becomes a "brake" oncoming flows of the cooled liquid. As a result, the upper part of the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensively as we would like.
Losses in the overall heat exchange efficiency with such a connection can reach up to 10÷15%. True, such a scheme is also easy to optimize.
Diagonal connection from below
It is difficult to think of a situation in which one would have to resort to such a connection. However, consider this scheme.
Prices for bimetallic radiators
bimetal radiators
The direct flow entering the radiator gradually wastes its kinetic energy, and may simply “not finish off” along the entire length of the lower collector. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upwards, both along the shortest path and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with a large comic section, it is quite likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the return pipe.
Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with this connection are estimated at 20%.
Bilateral top connection
Let's be honest - this is more of an example, since putting such a scheme into practice would be the height of illiteracy.
Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And in general, there are no other incentives for distribution throughout the rest of the radiator volume. That is, only the area along the upper collector will really warm up - the rest of it turns out to be “outside the game”. It is hardly worth evaluating the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself turns into a clearly inefficient one.
The top two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are also such radiators - pronouncedly high, often simultaneously acting as dryers. And if you have to bring the pipes in this way, then without fail, various methods are used to turn such a connection into an optimal scheme. Very often this is already incorporated in the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the upper one-way connection remains such only visually.
How can you optimize the radiator connection scheme?
It is quite clear that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimal energy consumption. And for this we must try to apply the most optimal tie-in schemes. But often the piping is already there and you don’t want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay pipes so that they become almost invisible. How to be in such cases?
On the Internet, you can find a lot of photos when they try to optimize the tie-in by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. The effect of increasing heat transfer in this case must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such “art” look, frankly, “not very good”.
There are other methods to solve this problem.
- You can purchase batteries that, outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another possible connection method as close to optimal as possible. In the right place between the sections, a partition is installed in them, which radically changes the direction of movement of the coolant.
In particular, the radiator can be designed for bottom two-way connection:
All the "wisdom" is in the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower manifold between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises up vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this high point, further distribution, quite obviously, is already underway, as in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with a feed from above.
Or, for example, the case mentioned above when it is required to bring both pipes from above:
In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last sections of the radiator. It turns out that there is only one way left for the entire volume of the coolant - through the lower entrance of the last section, vertically along it - and further into the return pipe. Eventually " traffic route» fluid through the channels of the battery again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.
Many radiator manufacturers think over this issue in advance - whole series go on sale in which the same model can be designed for different tie-in schemes, but in the end an optimal “diagonal” is obtained. This is indicated in the product data sheets. At the same time, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insertion - if you change the flow vector, then the entire effect is lost.
- There is another possibility to increase the efficiency of the radiator according to this principle. To do this, in specialized stores you should find special valves.
They must match their dimensions to the selected battery model. When such a valve is screwed in, it closes the adapter nipple between the sections, and then a supply or “return” pipe is packed into its internal thread, depending on the scheme.
- The internal baffles shown above are intended, to a large extent, to improve heat transfer when connecting batteries on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided tie-in - we are talking about the so-called flow extensions.
Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator through-hole plug and, during assembly, ends up in the collector cavity, along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required type of thread and the required length. Or, a special coupling is simply purchased, and the tube of the required length is selected separately for it.
Prices for metal-plastic pipes
metal-plastic pipes
What is achieved by this? Let's look at the diagram:
The coolant entering the radiator cavity, through the flow extension, enters the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper collector. And from here, its movement to the outlet pipe will already be carried out again according to the optimal "diagonal from top to bottom" scheme.
Many masters practice and independent production of such extension cords. If you figure it out, then nothing is impossible in this.
As the extension itself, it is quite possible to use a metal-plastic pipe for hot water with a diameter of 15 mm. It remains only from the inside to pack the fitting for the metal-plastic into the passage plug of the battery. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the desired length is in place.
As can be seen from the foregoing, it is almost always possible to find a solution on how to turn an inefficient battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.
And what about a one-way bottom connection?
They may ask in bewilderment - why is the scheme of the lower connection of the radiator on one side not mentioned in the article yet? After all, it is quite popular, as it allows you to carry out a hidden pipe connection to the maximum extent.
But the fact is that possible schemes were considered above, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in their one-way bottom connection there is simply no place - if at one point both the coolant is supplied and the coolant is taken away, then no flow through the radiator will happen at all.
What is commonly understood under bottom one-way connection in fact, it involves only the supply of pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the features of the device of the battery itself, or by special adapters.
Here is just one example of radiators specially designed for pipe connections. On the one side bottom:
If you understand the scheme, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us “one-way with supply from above”, which can be considered one of the best options. There are similar schemes, which are also supplemented with a flow extension, and then the most effective "diagonal from top to bottom" pattern is generally achieved.
Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. To do this, a special kit is purchased - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic adjustment of the radiator.
The upper and lower pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. The result is a finished battery with a lower one-way connection, and even with a thermal control and balancing device.
So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?
How does the location of the radiator on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?
You can purchase a very high-quality radiator, apply the optimal scheme for its connection, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of important nuances of its installation.
There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.
- Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, the streams of heated air become like a thermal curtain, which largely limits the free distribution of cold from the window surface.
Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can also be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence on those window openings- it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.
- If the radiator is installed under the window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ of the width of the window. This way, optimal indicators of heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window will be obtained. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance in one direction or another up to 20 mm.
- You should not install the battery too high - the window sill hanging over it can turn into a formidable barrier to ascending convection air flows, which leads to a decrease in the overall heat transfer efficiency. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the upper edge of the battery to the lower surface of the "visor"). If it is impossible to set all 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the thickness of the radiator.
- There is a certain regulation and clearance from below, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too high an arrangement (more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too low height, less than 100 mm, will bring unnecessary difficulties when cleaning, the space under the battery can turn into dust accumulation, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of heat transfer. The optimal height is within 100 ÷ 120 mm.
- The optimal location from the load-bearing wall should also be maintained. Even when installing the brackets for the battery canopy, it is taken into account that there must be a free clearance of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, deposits of dust may accumulate there, and normal convection will be disturbed.
These rules can be considered indicative. If the manufacturer of radiators does not give other recommendations, then they should be guided by them. But very often in the passports of specific battery models there are diagrams that specify the recommended installation parameters. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for the installation work.
The next nuance is how open the installed battery is for full heat transfer. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.
If the battery is under the window, then the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even to a greater extent, applies to niches in the wall. In addition, they often try to cover radiators, or even completely closed (with the exception of the front grille) casings. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the heat output of the battery, then it is quite possible to encounter the sad fact that it is not possible to achieve the expected comfortable temperature.
The table below shows the main possible options for installing radiators on the wall according to their "degrees of freedom". Each of the cases is characterized by its own indicator of the loss of efficiency of the overall heat transfer.
| Illustration | Operational features of the installation option |
|---|---|
 | The radiator is installed in such a way that it does not overlap with anything from above, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the battery thickness. In principle, there are no barriers to normal air convection. If the battery is not closed with thick curtains, then there is no interference for direct thermal radiation. In calculations, such an installation scheme is taken as a unit. |
 | The horizontal "visor" of the window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears for the upward convection flow. With a normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become "fatal", but certain efficiency losses are still observed. The infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The final loss of efficiency can be estimated at about 3÷5%. |
 | A similar situation, but only not a visor is located on top, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here, the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply having an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses of approximately 7 - 8%. |
 | The radiator is installed as in the first option, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But from the front side, over its entire area, it is covered with a decorative grille or screen. The intensity of the infrared heat flux is significantly reduced, which, by the way, is the defining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The total loss of heating efficiency can reach 10÷12%. |
 | The decorative casing covers the radiator from all sides. Despite the presence of slots or gratings to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, the indicators of both thermal radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about the loss of efficiency, reaching up to 20÷25%. |
So, we have considered the main schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information has been obtained on the applied methods for optimizing circuits, if for some reason it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are given for placing batteries directly on the wall - indicating the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany selected installation options.
Presumably, this theoretical knowledge will help the reader to choose the correct scheme based on from the specific conditions for creating a heating system. But it would probably be logical to complete the article by giving our visitor the opportunity to independently evaluate the necessary heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.
There is no need to be afraid - all this will be easy if you use the proposed online calculator. And below will be given the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.
How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?
Everything is quite simple.
- First, the amount of thermal energy that is needed to heat the room, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses is calculated. And, a rather impressive list of versatile criteria is taken into account.
- Then the obtained value is adjusted depending on the planned radiator tie-in scheme and the features of its location on the wall.
- The final value will show how much power a radiator needs to fully heat a particular room. If a collapsible model is purchased, then you can at the same time
Heating systems are used to maintain heat in buildings. Most include radiators that are mounted in several ways. Options depend on the structure of the harness and the batteries used.
At first glance, there are few differences in schemes, but The choice is best left to a professional.. The specialist will help to draw up a competent project that will not only take into account the wishes of the owner, but will also work efficiently.
How to connect radiators to a single-pipe heating system
Widespread thanks to cheap and easy installation. In most apartment buildings, the strapping is done in this way. In private buildings, it is less common. Radiators included in the wiring in series. The coolant makes a circle from the boiler, visiting each battery in turn. From the extreme section of the chain, the liquid returns to the return inlet.
Such a system has a couple of disadvantages:
- The impossibility of adjusting individual radiators. Installation of the controller is possible, but only the complete circuit can be controlled.
- Serial connection leads to a deterioration in heating in distant areas piping, as the working fluid loses heat along the way.
The best and worst features of a two-pipe system
Unlike a partner has forward and return pipes, the purpose of which, respectively: to serve hot, to return the cooled water. Each system battery connected in parallel. This increases the heating of distant areas chains. two pipes allow you to install regulators in front of each radiator to set the required temperature.
The disadvantage is installation complexity and cost.
Reference. Price almost doubles, in comparison with a single-pipe heating system.
What is the most efficient battery connection scheme?
Distinguish three ways radiator installation.
Diagonal
It is considered the most effective and is used in most cases.
Photo 1. Four options for diagonally connecting a radiator to heating, for one-pipe and two-pipe systems.
This associated with high efficiency
- The coolant enters the battery from the top corner.
- The liquid diverges throughout the available volume.
- It flows out in the opposite direction.
According to this scheme, testing systems in factories.
Lower
It is less common than others because it has lower efficiency. Both pipes are connected to the bottom of the battery. Medium losses are 15%.
Photo 2 In the second case, more materials are needed.
Of the pros the possibility of installation in the floor should be highlighted, which hides the strapping. And to compensate for low efficiency, it is recommended to install a more powerful radiator.
Should not be used similar scheme in harness without pump, because a vortex phenomenon occurs. The flow heats the surface of the pipes, increasing heat transfer during natural water circulation. The phenomenon has not yet been studied, so the possible consequences are not clear.
Side or one-sided
As the name suggests, pipes include from one side: at the upper and lower corners. A similar installation option is used in houses with vertical lines, for example, in apartment buildings. This scheme not applicable when supplying heat carrier from below because installation is much more complicated.
Photo 3. Both single-pipe and two-pipe systems allow for side connection of the battery. In the first case, a bypass is required.
Possesses high efficiency, slightly smaller than the diagonal scheme. It's about radiators. with 10 or less sections. Long batteries warm up worse because the working fluid has to travel a long way in one direction.
Important! This factor does not affect panel heat exchangers, in which they put special rods that improve the feed.
Useful video
The video understands the features of various popular radiator connection schemes.
One of the stages of installing a heating system in an apartment or a private house is the installation of heating batteries with connection to the mains. It is better to perform this operation before laying pipes, it is easier to make neat radiator connections. We will reveal the remaining nuances of installation work in detailed instructions on how to properly install a heating radiator with your own hands.
The choice of heating devices by type and power
If you have not purchased batteries yet, then before installing you need to choose heating radiators from 4 varieties available for sale:
- Sectional aluminum. They are made of a light alloy - silumin (aluminum + silicon) in the form of ribbed sections, painted with a heat-resistant polymer composition.
- Bimetallic heaters are made in two types - sectional and monolithic, although outwardly finished batteries look the same. Design: inside each section of silumin, a frame of steel pipes is embedded.
- Cast iron heating appliances - designer and Soviet-style - are only sectional.
- Steel radiators are welded from stamped metal (panel) or made by casting (tubular).
Note. In addition to the heaters shown in the photo, there are copper and baseboard convectors. In water systems, they are used quite rarely.
Choose the type of heating devices according to two criteria: price and appearance that matches the interior of the rooms. One caveat: for the autonomous heating system of a private house, any batteries are suitable, and for an apartment with centralized heating - radiators that can withstand a pressure of 12 bar. in a separate manual.
The heat transfer of batteries and registers is specified in the technical documentation of the manufacturer. According to current regulations, the power of the radiator sections is indicated at a temperature difference of the coolant and room air of 70 °C.
For example, the room temperature is 20 degrees, the water in the pipes is 90 ° C, then the section will give off approximately 180 W of heat. Since the coolant rarely heats up to 80-90 ° C, the actual heat transfer will be much lower. Hence the conclusion: take radiators with a margin of 80-100%. Simplified in our material and video:
Almost all types of batteries are offered in 2 versions - with side or bottom connection. Here the choice depends on the method of laying pipes and the installation of liner. So, before installing, you need to consider the question ...
About ways to connect radiators
The connection scheme must be thought out in advance, the position of the heater on the wall depends on it. Example: installation of batteries with a bottom connection implies the installation of a headset with taps, which occupies up to 10 cm of space under the heater. Imagine that 2 lines of a two-pipe system are laid above the plinth, then with a low window sill, the radiator simply will not enter the niche.
Example two: you decide to make a replacement yourself - rent an old cast-iron "accordion" in the apartment and install a modern appliance. Iron distribution pipes will not allow the bottom connection to be realized - only the side connection. To put the radiator in the middle of the window, you will have to build up polypropylene or metal-plastic connections.
Diagonal connection options: on the left is a diagram with a ball valve, on the right - with a thermal head Battery connection methods:
- Lateral versatile (diagonal). The coolant is supplied through the upper hole, exits the lower one on the opposite side, flowing evenly through the internal channels. Heat transfer is maximum, the radiator works efficiently.
- Lateral - both eyeliners are connected from 1 side. Approximately 10% of the thermal power is lost, since the far part of the battery warms up worse.
- The lower versatile scheme is used in horizontal one-pipe systems of the Leningradka type. The efficiency of the device is reduced by 10-20% depending on the pressure created by the circulation pump.
- The purely lower coolant supply is not inferior to the diagonal one due to its design features - through the first vertical channel, water rises to the upper zone of the radiator, and then diverges through the rest of the channels and collects below.
Side connection schemes are more often implemented in traditional systems - two-pipe or one-pipe (except Leningrad), which are mounted openly. The lower connection is a more modern version, the pipes from the boiler are laid in the floor, leaving directly under the battery.
Scheme of one-way connection of a radiator to a two-pipe and one-pipe system of an apartment building. Instead of the top tap, you can put a thermostat with a head, instead of the bottom tap - a balancing valve 4 types of radiator fittings
When starting water heating, the system must be balanced, during operation, repair and flush radiators. To solve these problems, the following shut-off and control valves are used:
- balancing valve;
- ball valve;
- thermostatic valve with thermal head;
- headset for the lower supply of pipes.
An important point. When installing radiators, always use taps with Americans - straight and angled. The union nut connection allows the heater to be removed at any time without emptying the pipe network.
On the left is a diagram of a one-sided connection of a battery with a balance valve, on the right is a lower versatile one (used when installing single-pipe horizontal wiring) How to install radiator fittings correctly:
- When connecting the heater to central heating, install 2 ball valves, a balancing valve is not needed. Option two: a valve with a thermal head can be provided on the supply line to automatically control the air temperature in the room.
- Radiators in a private house are connected as follows: a ball valve at the inlet, a balancing valve at the outlet. If you want to regulate the flow automatically, put a thermal head instead of an inlet tap.
- For bottom connection, use a special fitting with a built-in balance valve from Danfoss, Herz Armaturen, Oventrop. There are models for the installation of a thermostat.
When replacing the battery in the apartment, do not forget to provide a bypass for direct water flow through the riser. Equip the last radiator of an individual heating network of a country house with 2 shut-off valves, you do not have to balance it.
At the bottom connection, the coolant flow is directed to the upper horizontal channel of the radiator Location and installation height of batteries
Radiators should be installed in places of greatest heat loss:
- traditional location - under the window, in the middle of the light opening (when viewed vertically);
- in the corridor near the front door;
- on the landings;
- near the cold walls of living rooms without window openings.
The drawing shows the minimum distances to the nearest structures. For efficient battery operation, it is better to increase them: top and bottom indent - up to 10 cm, rear - up to 50 mm Explanation. When the battery is installed in a window sill, the upward convection current mixes with the cooled air from the window. If stained-glass windows are made in the room instead of the outer wall, it is better to install water or electric convectors in the floor.
If heating radiators are installed under windows, keep the following minimum indents:
- from the outer wall - 2.5 cm;
- from the window sill - 50 mm;
- from the floor - 60 ... 200 mm, depending on the type of heater and the method of its connection.
Unlike aluminum and bimetallic batteries, the depth of steel panel radiators varies over a wide range - from 6 cm (type 10) to 160 mm (type 33). The thicker the battery, the more air it can pass and heat up. This means that it is necessary to provide air supply from below and removal of warm flow from above the heater. Mounting diagrams of steel panels of different types are shown in the drawing.
Mounting height of panel radiators depends on the specific type Recommendation. We do not recommend completely sewing up the radiator after installation, making 2 convective openings with gratings. You will lose all infrared heat flux, which is at least 20% of the battery power. But the air under the skin will heat up to 30-40 ° C, due to the temperature difference between the street and the niche, heat losses will increase.
Installation instructions
To hang and connect the battery to the heating pipes, prepare the following components and materials:
- hooks with plastic dowels for fixing the radiator to the wall - at least 3 pcs.;
- 2 fittings (side plugs) with right pipe thread, marked with the Latin letter D;
- 2 fittings with left-hand thread, marking - S;
- 1 (faucet Mayevsky) with a key;
- 1 plug;
- sealing silicone thread or linen;
- tap, balancing valve, thermostatic valve, headset - according to the diagram;
- polypropylene, metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes with an internal diameter of 10-15 mm for eyeliners.
The number of fasteners depends on the size of the heater. An aluminum battery up to 10 sections must be mounted on 3 hooks or special brackets - 2 on top, 1 on the bottom. In other cases, 4 fasteners are used.
Steel panels are sold assembled, hanging brackets are included. Heavy cast iron floor mounted radiators are equipped with legs.
Varieties of wall and floor brackets used for attaching batteries Of the tools you will need:
- an electric drill and a drill corresponding to the hardness of the wall;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- construction level;
- gas key;
- tape measure, pencil.
pre-assembly
The radiator sections are pulled together by nipples - metal drives, on which the left and right threads are cut (half the length). To connect, you need a long key with a nipple nozzle, there is no such thing in the household. Hence the advice: ask to twist the sections right in the store.
Collect the sectional battery in this order:
- Clean the areas around the side holes.
- Screw 4 fittings from the ends, carefully tighten them with a gas wrench. Please note: plugs with a regular thread must be screwed into the right ends of the radiator, with a left-hand thread - into the left (when looking at the front side of the product).
- Close the unused bottom outlet with a plug from the kit.
- Using sealing material, pack and screw the Mayevsky crane into the upper channel.
- In the remaining 2 holes, install the counterpart of the American women disconnected from the taps.
An important point. An American element with a union nut does not need to be wrapped inside the futorka until it stops. Otherwise, the nut will not move away from the edge and will not allow the valve itself to be attached. To screw in, you will need a special internal key, but if you wish, you can get by with powerful pliers.
After mounting the American women, screw the valves and tighten (by hand for now). Panel heaters do not require assembly, unless you have to install an air vent. Do not remove the film from the case - it will protect the coating from accidental damage.
Assembly diagram of the sectional radiator assembly How to mark the radiator mount
We start with preparation - we remove interfering objects, tear off old wallpaper (you can glue a reflective foil screen in their place), we dismantle the old battery in case of replacement. Be careful not to cut the threads on the steel pipes with a grinder. It is better to clean it with a metal brush and unpack the coupling by unscrewing the nut.
Reference. If, for various reasons, the thread has become unusable, you will have to look for a set of pipe lerok and cut the turns on a new one. In open heating systems operating under atmospheric pressure, the use of GEBO type compression couplings is allowed.
How to make the correct markup for the battery:
- Determine the middle of the window opening and mark it on the wall with a vertical line.
- Stepping back from the window sill 7-10 cm, draw a horizontal line with a level. This line indicates the position of the top end of the radiator.
- Measure the distance from the center of the assembled battery to the suspension points, lay it horizontally on both sides of the vertical line. The sectional heater can be attached to the wall and marks are made opposite the two extreme joints.
- Find out the size from the top panel to the radiator mounting point, put this distance down from the previous marks. Get top drilling points.
- The points of the lower suspensions are easily determined: step back another 50 cm - this is the standard center distance of the heaters. There are other sizes - 300, 600 mm and so on.
After marking work, it is worth checking the distance from the attachment points to the floor, the best way is to attach the assembled battery to the wall Before marking, be sure to check the horizontalness of the window sill. If it stands unevenly, and you hang the battery level, then from the outside it will seem that it is the radiator that is fixed crookedly. Then you need to navigate by the slope of the window sill.
The second moment: in order for the air to leave through the Mayevsky tap, the heater is installed with a slight slope. The side of the device, where the air bleeder is located, rises literally by 1-2 mm, visually such a bias will remain invisible.
When replacing a radiator with a connection to existing pipes, you will have to measure their position relative to the window sill, then tie in height. How this is done, the wizard will show in the video:
Final stage
The final installation of heating radiators is carried out according to simple rules:
- Drill holes, hammer in dowels and attach hangers. Hooks for sectional devices are screwed in, taking into account the smallest indentation of 25 mm.
- Hang the battery on the brackets and try on the eyeliners. For convenience, draw lines on the wall.
- Remove the radiator and do the preliminary work - punch grooves for a hidden gasket, connect the leads to the lines, stick a reflective screen.
- Finally install the heater, connect the pipes and tighten the Americans.
In the photo on the left - a side connection unit with a bypass, on the right - a bottom connection with hidden connections
To successfully fill the system with coolant, leave the shut-off taps and valves open. The manual air vent must remain closed, it is used in the process of pumping water or antifreeze.
When replacing a central heating radiator in high season, it is necessary to close the entire riser. At the end of the installation, close the taps at the battery inlet, then supply water to the riser. When the noise of the coolant subsides, slowly open the top valve first, then the bottom one. from the battery.
How to hang a battery on an insulated wall
Sometimes homeowners insulate external walls from the inside with a layer of foam or extruded polystyrene foam 50 mm thick. When installing a radiator battery, a problem arises - regular hooks are too short, and longer ones experience a cantilever load and bend. It is clear that it is unrealistic to attach to the foam, only to the wall.
A simple solution is offered by our expert Vitaly Dashko in his video. The battery mounting technology is as follows:
- We mark the attachment points according to the above instructions.
- We take a wooden beam 5 x 5 cm (or according to the thickness of the insulation) 600 mm long or according to the size of the bracket for a steel radiator.
- We cut a vertical recess in the foam, insert a beam there and fasten it to the wall with any fasteners - dowels, anchors, dowels.
- We put the heater on regular suspensions attached to the bars.
Watch a video on installing a radiator on an insulated wall:
Conclusion
To install heating radiators with your own hands, you do not need to undergo any special training or have a specialized education. It is enough to remember the nuances of installation, watch a few videos from experienced craftsmen and you can get to work. The only caveat: batteries should be securely fastened, especially cast iron ones. A drawdown or breakage of the bracket will lead to the leakage of the coolant, sometimes quite hot 😊.
In addition to the two-pipe heating system, which is quite common in our country, a single-pipe system can also be found. This will provide significant savings by reducing the need for pipes, but a number of measures will have to be taken to ensure that the heating of the home is uniform. In particular, special attention will have to be paid to the methods of connecting radiators.
Is it worth it to use a single-pipe heating system
When laying pipes, a 2-pipe heating system is often used. Schematically, it can be represented in the form of 2 circuits, one is responsible for supplying hot water to the radiators, and the second for removing the cooled coolant and supplying it to the boiler. This approach allows you to organize the circulation of water of the same temperature in all batteries.
A significant disadvantage of this method of organizing heating is the financial cost of pipes (the price of such a heating device will be about 1.5-2 times more than a single-pipe one), and the labor intensity increases. In addition, pipes will be more difficult to disguise.
The single-pipe scheme does not imply the presence of a separate riser for the removal of the cooled coolant, that is, the pipes will need about half as much. Schematically, it can be represented as a closed circuit, and the connection of radiators with a single-pipe heating system is made in series.
Such a system began to be massively applied during the construction boom back in the USSR, at the same time its significant shortcomings were discovered:
- the main thing can be considered that the last batteries in the circuit receive a coolant with a temperature of about 30-50% lower than those closest to the boiler, this leads to the fact that the premises are heated extremely unevenly;
Note!
This shortcoming can be easily solved by increasing the number of sections of the last radiators.
But when building a large number of facilities, this will lead to an increase in calculations, which is not very convenient.
- you will need a fairly powerful pump, it will not work to organize the movement of the coolant by gravity;
- it is characterized by large heat losses;
- the start-up of the system takes longer than in the case of a two-pipe system;
- when doing work with your own hands, the risk of air pockets during operation is especially high. It's just that quite often it is not possible to maintain the necessary slopes along the entire length of the pipes.
The listed list of disadvantages is typical for a conventional single-pipe heating system. Today, most of these shortcomings are successfully eliminated by installing simple devices. For example, it is already possible to regulate the temperature in individual batteries, and the installation of balancing valves will make it possible to achieve almost the same operating conditions for all batteries in the circuit.
Given the significant savings on materials, such a scheme of the heating system definitely deserves attention.
How to connect radiators correctly
Not only the reliability of their operation, but also the efficiency of heating in general depends on the correct connection of radiators. For example, with a lower radiator connection, it will warm up somewhat worse than with a diagonal one.
Features of installing a radiator
Connection of heating radiators with a single-pipe heating system can be performed in 2 ways:
- without using a bypass (flow circuit). In this case, the maximum heat transfer of the radiator is guaranteed, but the operation of the system cannot be called flexible and reliable. With such a scheme, the failure of even one battery will require turning off the entire heating system, it will not work to turn off only one radiator;
- installation of a radiator with a bypass. This somewhat reduces the flow of coolant into it, as a result of which the heat transfer of the heater decreases by up to 10-15%, but such losses cannot be called critical in any way (especially since a margin is always included in the calculation, the same 10-15%). But the landlord will have the opportunity not only to turn off any battery at any time, but also to regulate the temperature in it.
In the photo - bypass
Note!
In order to avoid problems with, the bypass diameter must be selected 1 step less than the diameter of the supply pipe.
Also, when installing radiators, you will need:
- a pair of ball valves, installed on both sides of the radiator and used to instantly turn off the water supply to it;
- in principle, the instructions do not require this, but it is advisable to install a simple automatic thermostat at the battery inlet. A couple of hundred rubles will not affect the budget, but the ability to regulate the heat transfer of the heater is worth a lot;
- fittings for connecting the bypass to the pipeline. It is advisable to do without welding, and use any other type of detachable connection, for example, an American;
- also, when installing, a Mayevsky crane is extremely necessary, situations often arise when one section of the battery suddenly becomes cool, air congestion is to blame. The Mayevsky crane allows you to manually bleed air from the radiator.
Note!
A ball valve can be installed on the pipeline section under the battery in order for the coolant to circulate (adjustable bypass).
When the battery is disconnected, it opens.
How to properly connect a radiator
The heat transfer of the heater largely depends on how exactly the inlet and outlet pipes are connected to it. The difference between different connection methods can be up to 20-25%.
Connecting a heating radiator to a single-pipe system can be performed according to one of the following schemes:
- unilateral. At the same time, the inlet and outlet pipes are connected to the radiator from the bottom side, or the inlet from the top, and the outlet from the bottom);
- diagonal(it is also cross), the supply pipe is connected to the upper part of the battery, the discharge pipe to the bottom;
- bottom- in this case, the pipes are connected from the bottom side of the battery, the connection can be made both from one side and from different sides.
With lateral connection, the heat transfer of the battery is not much less than the maximum, a fairly uniform heating of the sections is ensured, the best option for vertical wiring.
But the scheme for connecting heating radiators with a single-pipe system in which the pipes are connected from the bottom side is far from ideal. The heat transfer of the radiator can be lower by about 10-20%, depending on the length of the sections, the circulation of the coolant is difficult, respectively, the distant sections warm up poorly.
Note!
If you need to mask the pipes in the floor or wall and make them completely invisible, then you can purchase radiators in which the connection is made from the bottom side.
Heat transfer, of course, is not up to par, but the pipes are not visible.
Diagonal connection of a heating radiator with a single-pipe system can be considered the best option in terms of efficiency. In this case, the coolant passes diagonally through the entire battery and the sections are heated as evenly as possible. Practice shows that optimal heat transfer is observed when the number of sections is about 15 pieces.
With a cross (diagonal connection), it is the supply pipe that must be connected to the top of the radiator, and the outlet pipe to the bottom. If they are interchanged, then the heat transfer will drop by almost half.
How to achieve maximum heating efficiency
The correct connection of heating radiators in a single-pipe system, of course, affects the heating efficiency, but you should also not forget about shut-off and control valves. And the choice of location also plays a role.
In order to achieve a stable microclimate in the house in any weather, and the batteries do not run idle, it is recommended to follow the following tips:
- do not place them close to the wall. Typically, radiators are installed in niches under the windows, in which case it is necessary to maintain distances from the walls and the floor (the distance from the walls should be about 5 cm, and from the floor - from 10 cm);
Note!
Ordinary curtains can also affect the heating efficiency, if the batteries are covered with a thick cloth, then the heating efficiency will drop sharply.
- as for thermostats, it is best to choose an automatic model; after the initial calibration, it will maintain the temperature in the room by itself. One-pipe connection of heating radiators will not be a problem if a bypass is used, in which case the circulation will be carried out partly through it, and partly through the pipe.
Summarizing
A single-pipe heating system is extremely attractive from the point of view of economy, the cost of pipes alone will be almost 2 times less. A number of problems associated with connecting batteries in series can be solved with simple thermostats, balancing valves and choosing the best way to connect a radiator.
The video in this article describes the advantages and disadvantages of different types of battery connection.
First you need to decide which steel radiator you need to connect - with a side or bottom connection.
A steel panel heating radiator is connected similarly to aluminum and bimetallic radiators. A steel radiator with a bottom connection has two outlets at the bottom - supply and return, which must not be confused.
Schemes for side connection of radiators
There are three main schemes for connecting pipes to a radiator:
1. Diagonal connection- the most preferred option for maximum heat transfer. In this scheme, the supply pipeline must be connected to the upper branch pipe of one side, and the outlet pipe - to the lower branch pipe of the other side of the radiator. In this case, the heat output of the radiator is maximum. With the reverse connection - the supply pipeline is from below, and the return pipeline is from above, the heat transfer of the radiator will decrease by 10%.
This scheme is preferred for long radiators and radiators with more than 12 sections. From an aesthetic point of view, the best option would be to lay suitable pipelines in the wall (in a strobe, or behind a false wall).
2. Lateral one-way connection- the most common case in apartments. In this embodiment, the supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the return pipe is connected to the lower one, on the same side of the radiator. In this case, the maximum power is less than in the case of a diagonal connection by 2%. By reconnecting the suitable and return piping, the power is reduced by another 7%.
3. Bottom connection. This option for connecting a radiator is most often used when laying main pipelines in the floor or along the wall, when it is not possible to hide the pipes in a strobe.
The maximum heat transfer of the radiator is 7% less than with a diagonal connection.
Connection of steel panel radiator with bottom connection
Steel radiators with a bottom connection should be attributed to a one-way connection scheme, because. all wiring (upper and lower branch pipe) is made inside it.
It must also be remembered that when piping a steel radiator with a bottom connection, the flow and return cannot be interchanged. The return pipe is always the first from the near corner (see figure).
All steel radiators with a bottom connection are universal, that is, they can be connected through the bottom pipes or the second option, plug the bottom pipes with plugs and unscrew the top built-in thermostatic valve. Connect the supply pipeline to the place of the valve, and connect the return pipeline to one of the lower side pipes.
How to connect a steel heating radiator
A steel heating radiator with side connection is mounted in the same way as any sectional radiator. In most cases, it has an outlet with a 1/2 inch internal thread, into which they screw: a plug, a Mayevsky tap and control valves.
Steel radiators with a bottom connection are in most cases tied with copper, metal-plastic pipes or cross-linked polyethylene. To connect pipes to the radiator, as well as to cut off the radiator from the system, lower connection nodes (angled or straight) are used.
The nut is screwed onto the 3/4 external thread of the radiator, the pipe is connected to the bottom connection unit through the 3/4 euro cone.
Some steel radiators have 1/2" female inlet fittings; to connect such a radiator to the lower connection assembly, special 1/2 x 3/4 Eurocone nipples must be used.
In addition, such radiators can also be connected using conventional thermostatic valves.