Lining lining. Do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling lining in your own house. Ceiling preliminary work

Lining is a finishing material that is widely used in construction. Lining the ceiling with clapboard is often used in the decoration of country houses and baths. This finishing material has been known for many years. The ceiling made of wooden lining looks attractive, it is easy to breathe with it. Lining is also used for exterior decoration of buildings. The edges of this product have a special groove for fastening. The connection is reliable, durable and protects the structure from the penetration of excess moisture.

Before you begin to sheathe the ceiling with a clapboard, the material must be treated with an antiseptic, and then varnished or painted.

Types and some characteristics of lining

There are different types of lining. The most common ones are wood and plastic. Plastic lining when carrying out wall and ceiling cladding is used very often. It is made in the form of separate rails, which have some advantages over other finishing materials:

Has excellent decorative qualities and attractive appearance.
Does not require any additional processing after installation.
Attaches to the surface very easily and simply.
Well hides all the errors of the base surface.
The material does not corrode, does not rot.
Its cost is much lower than the price of wooden lining.
When installing plastic panels, you can perform additional sound insulation and insulation of the room.

Features of wooden lining:

It is an environmentally friendly natural material.
Installation is more complicated compared to the plastic counterpart.
It has higher thermal insulation properties than plastic material.
It has a fairly high durability.
The surface of the ceiling, lined with wooden clapboard, requires special care.
Has a beautiful appearance.
Lining the ceiling with clapboard allows you to install additional thermal protection and sound insulation.
It costs much more than plastic products.
An excellent material for interior decoration of dry rooms.

Back to index

Tools for the job

To finish the ceiling with a clapboard with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools:

perforator or drill;
screwdriver;
hammer;
construction square;
level;
rule;
roulette;
scissors for cutting metal;
hacksaw with fine teeth;
bars for lathing with a thickness of 20 mm or more (these can be wooden slats or metal profiles UD and CD);
dowels and self-tapping screws for fastening the elements of the crate;
crabs (cross-shaped fasteners for metal profiles).

Back to index

ceiling lining process

The lining of the ceiling with clapboard should be done without haste, since the marriage made in the work cannot always be corrected. The procedure is something like this:

The marking of the crate begins with the identification of the lowest corner of the room. At this point, a distance equal to the sum of the thickness of the beam or profile and the thickness of the lining is measured from the corner down. There is a mark on the wall.
The mark is transferred using a water or laser level to all walls of the room.
All marks are connected by fishing line or nylon thread. A line around the perimeter of the room is beaten off on the walls along it.
If wooden slats are used for the construction of the crate, they must be pre-treated to protect against mold and fungus with an antiseptic.
The elements of the crate are attached to the wooden ceiling with self-tapping screws. The distance between the bars is no more than 50 cm.
The crate is attached to the concrete surface with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill the appropriate holes.
First, the extreme rails are attached, then the rest. The beam closest to the wall is fixed 10 cm from it. With the help of wooden, plywood or other spacers, the slats are aligned to obtain a strictly horizontal surface. This is checked with a fishing line stretched between the extreme bars of the crate.
Mounted wiring for lighting fixtures.
The initial lining panel is attached to the crate with a gap of 5-7 mm from the wall.
Next, install the following strips, firmly inserting them into the locks of the previous ones. Sometimes you have to knock them out with light blows with a rubber mallet. Fastening is done using small screws, nails. In a wooden lining, it is recommended to pre-drill holes so that the panel does not split.
For the installation of lighting fixtures, appropriate holes are cut out with a sharp knife, a jigsaw, and special drilling crowns. When cutting holes in a plastic lining, it is recommended to heat the knife.
The last strip most often has to be adjusted to size, cutting it along with a hacksaw or a jigsaw.
The lining of the ceiling with clapboard is finished. It remains to install a ceiling plinth, which will close the gap between the wall and the cladding material and give the ceiling surface a finished look.

Clapboard ceilings look simply chic, in a modern style and emphasize the individual design of the room. The characteristic stripes that form as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious, and the ceilings are perfectly even.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with it and in fact everyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of frame for the ceiling

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing the lining on the ceiling, it is necessary to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate the uneven and ugly surface from your future new ceilings. Also, the frame will allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the whole structure with good strength.

Helpful information:

The lining on the ceiling is sewn on top of the frame, so in any case you will need a crate, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is made much easier than the frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use both and simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and on the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen, it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and the finishing material - lining can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be an excellent solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of mounting the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Clapboard - panel

It imitates an ordinary wooden beam and has a simpler shape. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology contributes to better ventilation of the room, drainage of moisture and various fumes. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration, it is used more often than Lining-Calm, since eurolining is much cheaper in cost.

Clapboard - Calm

The material has a perfectly smooth surface, which does not have grooves - recesses on the front of the board. It is used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Clapboard - American

It imitates laying boards with an overlap, as a result of which the junction between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used in outdoor decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with clapboard, and indeed with wood, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your clapboard ceilings are impeccable.

Ordinary hammer.
Screwdriver, or drill with a chipper.
and building area.
Accurate roulette.
Jigsaw or hacksaw.
Scissors for metal, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for the ceilings from the lining must be selected according to the calculations made earlier. A beam for a wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the beam, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will also hold perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 bars.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the bars, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into the concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here the family budget will be devastated much more. Since the number of components of the frame will increase much and you will need additionally:

Guide profile - UD.
The profile underlying the frame is CD.
Mounts "Crab" and "P" - shaped mounts.
Self-tapping screws for metal.

To mount the lining itself on the frame, you can use a construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then ordinary nails can be used.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall by 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using a water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will verify the horizontal position of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary in advance and to increase fire safety.

Wooden bars are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the bars should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only refined, but also improved, for example:, then in this case the step between the bars should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” of mineral wool or other heat and sound insulating material also have a width of 60 centimeters. The bottom edge of all bars should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the bars. Be sure to use the water level.

We fasten two beams along two walls from different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. we clearly align the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the bars. Next, with a step of 60 centimeters, we continue to mount the bars, checking our work with the help of a level at different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to put wooden linings, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining along it.

If you are not sure about the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional transverse bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. It can be strengthened and only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to install all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That's the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, the metal profile for creating various kinds of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for suspended single-level plasterboard ceilings. So I don't really want to repeat myself.

Lining made of wood or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards must be prepared and cut to size identical to the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lining lamella for a specific place.

Important! If you plan to mount the wall paneling on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, then be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, then you need to use doboy so that the hammer does not damage the lock and the front of the board.

When your lining ceiling is in the process of being set, it is necessary to mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. After the ceiling is ready, it will be more difficult to cut holes, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly knocking, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along the entire length with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, you should not put the lining on the glue, since you will already have a durable and strong construction.

Plastic lining

The principle of installing plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The main difference will only be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent one must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now ceiling plinths are often made, which already initially have this groove. There is also a collapsible design in the shape of the letter “G”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before sheathing the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finish. As a result, the overall level of the ceiling will be determined by the pre-assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all strips fit more closely to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the junctions.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to fix a corner or decorative plinth around the perimeter of your new ceiling. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The plinth is usually mounted with liquid nails. There are also special clips.

Ceiling surface cladding is a construction event, to which high requirements are initially imposed. This is due to the characteristics of the materials used and the fact that in most cases, a homeowner who decides to make the ceiling sheathing on his own will need experience and the availability of specialized tools. Regardless of the type of materials used, the ceiling cladding technology is generally similar and involves the arrangement of the frame and its subsequent cladding. However, the materials used in the process of finishing ceilings are different, and their choice is determined by the characteristics of a particular method of finishing. Despite the fact that carrying out finishing activities using most methods requires certain skills of a specialist in this field, there are those that are available to everyone, including beginners, and the most common of them is clapboard ceiling lining. It is widely used on construction sites, being the material of choice in the process of both external and internal finishing work. The World Wide Web offers a lot of information on this topic, however, this article, being the most complete and structured, will most effectively answer the question: “How to sheathe a clapboard ceiling?”.

Clapboard ceiling: the main types of material

Despite the fact that the construction market provides the consumer with the freedom to choose among a variety of inexpensive polymeric materials for interior decoration that have won the trust of developers, today there are many true connoisseurs of natural wood. The commitment of craftsmen to the use of this material is due to its aesthetic characteristics, environmental safety and ease of use, and there are legends about the unique woody aroma in a room where the ceiling is lined with clapboard, in the literal sense of the word. In addition, the thermal insulation characteristics of wood make it possible to create a balanced microclimatic environment in a room where the ceiling is lined with clapboard.

Wooden lining: material specifics

The lining is a facing board, the specificity of which lies in the tongue-and-groove fixation system. In the last century, it was used only for lining wagons, for which it got its name, and later became a material widely used for both exterior and interior decoration. In the post-war years, being one of the most budget options, lining was the only available finishing material. Over the past decades, lining not only has not lost its former popularity, but has also established itself as a reliable facing material. Subsequently, along with the advent of new technologies for the manufacture of lining, the scope of its application has expanded significantly.

The production of lining is a multi-stage process, including the manufacture of an edged board with its subsequent industrial drying, the application of tongue-and-groove joints, careful grinding of material surfaces and, finally, sorting of finished products. These features of production determine the advantages of the material, such as the possibility of obtaining a strong connection of panels without gaps, an attractive appearance, and therefore the material does not need additional processing, and its decorative characteristics are much higher than operational ones.

There are various classifications of natural lining, suggesting the division of the lining in accordance with a variety of features. Among them are the quality of the finished product, the type of wood used for the production of lining, and the scope of its use, and other equally relevant parameters. Let us consider in more detail the most common classifications.

Ceiling from lining photo

For the manufacture of lining, the following types of wood are used:

Noble wood species, among which oak and ash deserve special attention;
Soft breeds - among them alder and linden;
Universal species - spruce and pine (in this case, the thickness of the profile is 12.0 x 25.0 mm, width - 90.0 x 150.0 mm and length up to 6 m).

In accordance with the scope of use, several types of lining are also distinguished:

"Evrovagonka" - a type of lining, more often exported to European countries and characterized by a smooth front surface and the presence of an in-depth tongue-and-groove system;
"American" - a kind of lining, using which you can imitate overlapping, popular in America;
"Panel lining" - a type of material, the appearance of which has obvious similarities with a bar;
"Block House" - a profile that has external similarities with a rounded beam.

Another classification of wood panels involves their separation depending on quality:

"Extra" - panels included in this category are characterized by high quality, the absence of dark spots and knots, which leads to the highest cost of the material;
Category "A" - small knots can be found on the surface of the panels included in this group, which significantly affects the price of this material and makes it affordable for most buyers;
Category "B" - panels of medium quality, the most suitable for finishing work in the country, balcony or recreation center;
Category "C" - low-grade panels, the surface of which is characterized by a large number of dark spots and knots.

Important! Among the variety of wooden panels, experts recommend giving preference to products made from cedar, aspen or linden. However, for ceiling sheathing, you can use not only wooden, but also plastic panels.

Plastic panels: a brief description

The traditional classification of plastic panels involves their division into seamless panels and panels with a marked seam, as a result of which the surface of the ceiling is characterized by an appearance similar to a wooden covering.

Important! Unlike wooden lining, plastic panels do not need additional processing, which must be carried out before or after finishing the ceiling with lining. This is due to the initial practicality of plastic lining and the variety of its colors, which allows you to choose a plastic lining that imitates a wooden surface.

Seamless plastic lining characterized by the presence of a hidden tongue-and-groove system, which makes it possible to make the seams almost invisible after the installation of the ceiling covering. Also, in the process of producing seamless lining, the manufacturer focuses on reducing the number of joints between the panels, increasing their width, which is five times the width of traditional panels;
Plastic lining with a dedicated seam has external similarities with wooden lining, differing from it in that, unlike the latter, it does not need additional processing.

Important! Giving preference to plastic lining, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the main features of PVC panels:

Although plastic panels are designed to hide existing unevenness in the finished surface, and therefore, they bend easily, excessive stress constantly acting on the panel can lead to cracks. A damaged panel is not suitable for restoration;

Plastic panels are moisture resistant, however, ultraviolet radiation, constantly affecting the material, can cause it to fade.

MDF panels: specifics of use

There is another type of lining - MDF panels, which are lining made from fiberboard. The production of this variety is based on the method of pressing wood fiber, followed by giving the material the necessary shape and installing the tongue-and-groove system. If the size and shape of MDF panels are generally standard, then the color scheme has practically no restrictions. The principle of surface sheathing using this material is similar to that when using wooden lining. Due to the fact that one of the disadvantages of MDF panels is low moisture resistance, and constant exposure to moisture can cause them to deform and collapse, lining of this type can only be used in rooms characterized by a low level of humidity, and is not suitable for arranging false ceilings in bathroom or kitchen.

Wooden lining is a universal material, combined with almost any finishing materials that are relevant today. As for the decoration of country houses, saunas and baths, in this case, lining is the material of choice for finishing events. The owners of apartments also have wooden lining in good standing, it is used for finishing balconies and loggias, as well as for partial or complete finishing of the kitchen or living room.
If you are seriously thinking about using wood when decorating a room and, in particular, a ceiling, check out this article, which will discuss how to mount the lining on the ceiling so that it is not only reliable, but also stylish and harmonious;
The ceiling, sheathed with wooden clapboard, should organically fit into a holistic interior concept, combining favorably not only with the floor and furniture, but also with home textiles. This advice will be especially relevant if you plan to decorate the interior in a classic or rustic style;
So that the surface of the ceiling sheathed with clapboard is not monotonous, it is recommended to install the rails in different directions, which will help create a certain pattern on the ceiling. To increase the decorative effect created, you can use slats or decorative beams of a different color;
False ceiling - ideal for the living room. For its installation, you can use not only a long board, but also ready-made modules. The panels used for mounting a false ceiling in the living room can be decorated with carvings, paintings or stained glass windows - thanks to the use of modern technologies, manufacturers offer a lot of options.

What to do if you have purchased a wooden lining?

After you have purchased a wooden lining, experts do not recommend immediately proceeding with the installation of the ceiling. In this regard, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the following tips for maintaining the original quality of the material:

First of all, it is necessary to release the purchased lining from the packaging;
Next, the panels are carefully laid out on a flat surface, it is better if they are wooden boards;
Before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling, wait for the time required for the lining to dry completely. At the same time, it is important to know that the lining must be dried as much as possible, which will positively affect their quality. Drying of the panels must be carried out in the room where the installation is planned.

Important! Experts do not recommend rushing to install the lining on the ceiling and let it dry completely. The most optimal time for complete drying of the lining is considered to be a time period of three months, however, if you cannot wait too long, the time can be reduced to several weeks.

The importance of this advice cannot be underestimated, since ideally the humidity of the room where the installation will be carried out and the humidity of the panels should match. Otherwise, non-compliance with these recommendations may lead to deformation of the panels. In this sense, the practicality of MDF panels and plastic panels is much higher, since they do not need pre-drying. To carry out the installation of plastic lining on the ceiling, it is enough to leave it for two or three days in a heated room, where work will be carried out and boldly proceed with the installation activities.

Calculation of the amount of material. Required Tools

The calculation of the required amount of material is a simple but rather laborious undertaking, and its implementation must be carried out at the proper level. Experts advise purchasing material with a certain margin so that there are no unpleasant surprises in the process of work.
First of all, decide on the direction of fastening of the elements, and then display this on the drawing. It will become your faithful assistant in the correct determination and calculation of the required amount of material;
If the area of your room is calculated according to the scheme 2.5 x 3.3 m, purchase a material 3 m long and fasten in a width of 2.5 m, trimming the material by 50 cm, which will go to waste. If you choose a different placement, you will have to grind part of the element, which will be noticeable after the installation is completed;
In the process of considering the width of the configuration, it is important to remember the groove that runs along the edge of each part.

In order to make a ceiling from a lining with your own hands, you will need the following set of tools:

Drill, screwdriver and perforator;
Hacksaw, as well as scissors for metal;
Hammer;
Roulette;
Building corner and building level;

To make a wooden frame, prepare a beam, the thickness of which is calculated based on the features of the chosen design, but its cross section should not be less than 20 mm. In the case of installing additional insulation, its thickness must be added to the thickness of the timber.

Important! In the case of installing additional insulation, the material should also be taken with a margin. During installation, the insulation should not be pressed excessively - its fastening should be carried out freely, without additional clamping, since in the case of rigid fastening, the insulation will lose its properties.

If you are planning to install a ceiling from a wooden lining on a metal profile, be prepared for the fact that the costs will increase. In addition to the main material, additional elements will be required:

Profile UD, which is fastened around the perimeter of the entire room;
Profile CD, which acts as the basis of the frame;
Crabs, which are a cruciform mount and U-shaped fasteners;
Self-tapping screws.

Important! Despite the fact that some craftsmen prefer to fasten the lining with a stapler or nails, motivating this by the speed of the method. However, this fastening is considered insufficiently reliable, and therefore, experts recommend using proven self-tapping screws.

Lining the ceiling with clapboard: step by step instructions

Ceiling frame installation

During the installation of the frame, it is important not to rush and follow all the recommendations, since in case of a violation of the arrangement of the elements, the geometry of the entire structure will be disturbed, which subsequently cannot be corrected.

In accordance with the instructions, first of all, they find the lowest corner in the room and, adding to it the height of the timber and the thickness of the lining, put a mark on this place and transfer it to other planes in the room. To facilitate this task, it is recommended to use a hydraulic level;

The resulting marks are connected with a nylon thread and the resulting level is beaten off on the walls in the room.

Important! If you use wood during the installation of the frame, pre-treat it with an antiseptic that will protect the material from mold and rot. This work is recommended to be done in advance, as the material must dry out. The method of processing, as well as its terms, are indicated by the manufacturer of the antiseptic composition on the package.

To ensure the fastening of the lining to the ceiling, prepare a flat base surface on which the cladding will be fastened.

To do this, fasten straight bars with a cross section of 40 x 40 mm around the perimeter, constantly monitoring the water level;

To carry out their adjustment, use wooden plates of various thicknesses, which must be placed at the points where the bars are attached to the supporting ceiling panels;

After you have screwed in all the screws, a solid base is formed on the ceiling, which is limited by the surface of the bars;

If you are dealing with a concrete floor, before attaching the lining, take the following steps:

Install the dowels 8 x 40 mm, for which it is necessary, using a carbide drill, drill a hole 40-50 mm deep and insert the dowel. Next, using a drill with a diameter of 5 mm, drill through the bars at the installation sites of the dowels;

Using a cord, beat off the lines on the ceiling along which the intermediate bars of the crate will be fastened, which should be located at a distance of 0.6 mm from each other.

Important! Due to the fact that even at the stage of installation of the facing surface there is a possibility of an error leading to a violation of flatness and the appearance of noticeable unevenness, it is recommended to use a fishing line stretched along the marked lines. This will eliminate the use of the building level.

To install the inner part of the crate, you will need an assistant who will hold the bars as close as possible to the stretched fishing lines and, if necessary, lay the adjustment plates. At this time, you will drill and screw the bars.

Important! If you are faced with the need for additional insulation, install block and roll thermal insulation materials between the lathing bars, over which you need to stretch a vapor barrier film that prevents the lathing from contacting moisture.

Lining the ceiling with clapboard: how to fix the facing material

The next stage is lining the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house.
This stage is not particularly difficult, but despite this, you will need an assistant. If you are using long panels, this is a must.
Take the first panel and, attaching it tightly to the wall, fix it;
The next panel is inserted into the groove to the previous one and fixed at the location of the crate;
If it is planned to install holes for fixtures and pipes, they are drilled in the course of work, which eliminates the possibility of errors;
If, in the process of lining the ceiling with clapboard in a wooden house, you manage to make fasteners at the place where the ridge enters the groove, you will get a truly harmonious ceiling covering by hiding the self-tapping screws;
If you are lining the ceiling with plastic panels, all the necessary holes must be drilled in advance, eliminating the risk of surface damage.

Important! Make sure in advance that all communications and electrical wiring are not damaged, since dismantling the surface is highly undesirable. As fasteners, use those made of stainless materials, which will avoid the appearance of stains from rust.

Important! During operation, take into account the temperature and humidity of the room where the installation will be carried out. In case of temperature below +10 degrees and high humidity, it is recommended to postpone installation activities.

When working on the interior decoration of the premises, various materials are used. But, despite modern technologies and developments, lining is in great demand in the building materials market. Today lining is the leader in the sphere of ceiling coverings. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how the lining of the ceiling with clapboard occurs on a balcony or any other room.

The advantages of lining include ease of installation, beautiful appearance of natural wood, relatively inexpensive price.

Materials and tools for fastening lining

From the tools you should take:

screwdriver or impact drill;
nails / dowels / screws / self-tapping screws / clamps;
hammer;
centimeter / tape measure;
building level;
hacksaw for metal;
table and stepladder.

The main elements of the installation are the lining board and the frame. The frame for ceiling sheathing is of two types - wooden and metal.

When installing with a wooden frame (crate), you will need:

suspensions for attaching the frame to the ceiling;
wooden bars measuring 40x40 mm, from which the frame is assembled;
self-tapping screws.

Bars for a wooden frame must be perfectly even and intact.

If you choose a metal frame, you will need a metal profile made of galvanized steel, hangers, metal screws.

The lining material for the ceiling is varied - it can be wood, fiberboard, polyvinyl chloride or MDF. Lining made of wood (pine, linden) is in great demand.

For bathrooms with high humidity and kitchen areas, you should opt for a metal frame and plastic lining. A wooden lining is also suitable for the kitchen, but it is better to mount it on the base of a metal crate.

Unlike a wooden frame, galvanized metal profiles are not susceptible to deformation from moist air.

In the bath for ceiling sheathing, natural wooden lining panels are ideal, despite the high degree of humidity in the room.

Preparatory work

How to sheathe the ceiling with clapboard, where to start? Before starting work on fixing, it is necessary to prepare the ceiling - remove the chandelier and small lamps. Also inspect the ceiling surface for damaged plaster or whitewash and cracks.

After eliminating defects, the ceiling surface should be treated with an anti-mold agent. If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Installation

Step 1: Installing the frame

Fastening the lining to the ceiling surface begins with the installation of the frame. Without a crate, lining with a clapboard will not only not hide the flaws in the ceiling surface, but will also emphasize them.

Before installing the crate, the first thing to do is markup. It is worth paying attention to the direction in which the lining will be laid. The profiles of a metal frame or laths of a wooden crate should lie across (i.e. perpendicular to the direction of the lining), with the longitudinal direction of the lining - vice versa.

The crate must be installed as evenly as possible, otherwise the lining may be skewed. A wooden crate has less durability than a frame made of metal profiles. But a wooden frame is more suitable for lining the ceiling with a clapboard made of wood.

Installation of a wooden frame for lining consists of several stages:

If there is no need to lower the ceiling level, then wooden beams are attached directly to the ceiling surface.
Wedges made of wood or plastic should be used to level the frame.
Brackets are first installed on the ceiling and there are already bars to them.

If the ceiling is sheathed with plastic lining panels, then the craftsmen recommend maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm between wooden beams. For solid wood lining panels, the distance between the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm, respectively.

Installation of a metal crate consists of the following steps:

Take measurements of the height of the room / room at all corners, thereby determining the lowest point.
From the selected point, measure a line of 5-10 cm - level.
Along the entire perimeter of the walls, taking into account the established level, the initial metal profile is attached. Dowels can be used as fasteners.
Hangers for the profile must be attached to the ceiling surface. Suspension plates are bent downwards.
Metal main profiles are attached to suspensions and initial profiles.
Before the final fastening, you should check the level of the location of all frame profiles.

The choice of crate depends on preferences and financial capabilities. Metal profiles are durable, but also more expensive than wooden frames.

Step 2: Laying communications (wiring)

Before fixing the lining, you should check the operability of the electrical wiring being laid, its reliability and insulation strength.

Step 3: Lining with clapboard

In the course of work, the material from which the lining is made is not significant. Since the workflow for each type of lining is similar. The strips (panels) of the lining are cut with a length equal to the length of the ceiling (minus 0.5 cm). If the walls are not perfectly even, then the panels are placed close to the wall. The strip must be laid perpendicular to the frame guides and with a groove to the corner.

Then the first strip is attached on both sides along the entire length. It is necessary to retreat from the wall at a distance of 5 mm.

The final strips of the lining must be tightly inserted at a certain angle into the groove (lock) of the previous panel. To achieve a tighter fit, it is allowed to use a small rubber hammer: gently tap on the end faces of the panels.

The second side of the panel should be screwed / nailed to the rails of the crate at the bottom of the lock.

In the course of laying the lining, you need to decide on the wiring - make the appropriate exit holes. Otherwise, after completion of work, it is problematic to remove the electrical wiring and you can deform the material.

The process of attaching panels to the ceiling continues to the opposite side of the room. The last panel should be driven into the groove, additionally using small wedges. These wedges are driven in between the lining panel and the wall.

Most likely, the last strip will need to be adjusted in length. In the case of using a wooden lining, the strip is cut with a hacksaw. If the panel is made of plastic, it is necessary to make one even cut on both sides of the panel and carefully break it.

Of the common methods for fixing lining strips to the ceiling, experts distinguish 2 main methods:

fixation with clamps. The use of a special building bracket (kleimer), which is “put on” on the groove of the lining panel and attached to the frame. The use of such brackets completely eliminates damage to the lining material. Fastening with kleimers is suitable for lining made of plastic.
open fixation. This method is used in the case of ceiling sheathing with heavy lining panels. With the open method, at least minimal skill and accuracy are required.
fixing with screws. This method is used, like kleimers, when sheathing with plastic lining panels.

Self-tapping screws or small nails with small caps (or without caps) are used as fasteners in this method. Nails should be carefully driven vertically into the grooves of the panels so as not to distort the appearance of the coating. But if, after fastening, the lining strips are treated with a dark-colored varnish, then you can not hide the nail heads, but hammer them in the center of the panel.

When fastening with nails, hammer blows should not be applied directly to the nail head. In this case, you can use a special nail extension (doboynik).

In the process of fastening the lining, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps and cracks between the panels. Otherwise, the appearance of the ceiling will suffer significantly.

Step 4: Installing skirting boards

At the end of the installation work, a decorative plinth (or corners) is installed around the perimeter of the updated ceiling. The plinth will hide the gaps between the ceiling and the wall, the ends of the trimmed lining strips and give a finished look to the ceiling surface.

Conclusion

The process of attaching the lining to the ceiling is not laborious in itself. A person without experience in repair and finishing work or with a minimum of repair skills will be able to cope with it.

It is best to fix the lining on the ceiling surface not alone, but with an assistant. So you can significantly reduce the time, make the mount better and even. In addition, it is very difficult and inconvenient to hold the lining panel on your own.

As a result, the lining of the ceiling with a clapboard looks presentable, such a ceiling will delight for a long time with its ideal look, texture and color.

Well-known to most of us, lining is widely used today for both interior and exterior decoration. Of great interest is the option of using this material for interior decoration of apartments, in connection with which I would like to tell you more about how to make do-it-yourself clapboard ceiling lining.

Types of lining

Of the known varieties of finishing materials of this class, products made of plastic and wood are best suited for these purposes. Plastic lining is made in the form of narrow and long rails, which are equipped with a special docking groove and do not require any additional processing.

Possessing a high decorative appeal, plastic lining, in addition, has a number of remarkable properties:

it is very convenient to use (easily attached to the finishing plane);
under its surface, all defects of the base are reliably hidden;
is resistant to decay and corrosion;
has an attractive price (much lower than the wooden counterpart).

In addition, this material allows you to organize additional insulation and soundproofing of the finished room and can be used for any type of finish.

Unlike plastic products, wooden lining belongs to the category of natural materials, which are not as easy to work with as with plastic. We also note that wooden lining needs special processing and special care; while the cost of its installation is relatively high. On the other hand, wood has good thermal insulation characteristics, while being an environmentally friendly material.

Preparatory work

During installation work with lining, you may need the following tools:

electric drill;
rubber hammer, tape measure, hacksaw;
building corner, rule and level.

Material preparation should be done with a small margin.

The calculation of the amount of material required to close the ceiling should be made taking into account the following circumstances:

First of all, the length of the area to be closed is determined and suitable-sized blanks are selected (with a ceiling size of 2.5 by 3.3 meters, for example, you will have to collect a strip of 3.3 meters wide from 3-meter rails). In this case, all slats will need to be cut to a length of 50 cm.
When calculating the number of rails, do not forget to make allowance for the docking grooves.
It is also necessary to take into account the fact that the extreme bar usually does not enter completely and is cut to width. Plastic blanks are usually formed with a hacksaw or knife, while a jigsaw is used to fit wooden slats.

To prepare a wooden frame, you will need a bar with a thickness of at least 20 mm. The exact value of the cross section of the beam is selected based on the presence of an insulated layer (in this case, the cross section of the beam should be greater by the thickness of the insulation).

The main work begins with the installation of the frame, which is the "skeleton" of the structure, on which the lining will be attached. Finishing the ceiling with clapboard should begin with a competent calculation of the attachment point of the first type-setting rail.

In the case of an uneven wall, this rail is recommended to be fixed not close to it, but with a small gap (about 5-6 mm), which will subsequently be blocked by a ceiling plinth. In this case, in any case, you will have to adjust the last bar in width and also fasten it with a gap.

When installing the lining, pay attention to the following nuances:

when fitting the workpieces along the length, do not forget to leave the so-called thermal gap of about 5 mm on each side (to avoid deformation of the material due to its expansion);
it is not recommended to perform preliminary preparation of the material immediately on the entire installation plane; at the same time, it is desirable to adjust each bar individually, and then fix it at the installation site;
when finishing the ceiling, the cut of the installed rail is simply fixed in the lock of the already installed workpiece.

In case of difficulty when inserting the workpiece into the grooves (lock), you can use a rubber mallet, through which the rail is carefully knocked into place of the fastener. After that, the workpiece is fastened with the help of self-tapping screws on the frame guides (preferably in the area of the lock rim).

The principle of laying a plastic baseboard does not differ significantly from that described above. The only exception is the moment that the attachment points of the rails to the frame are pre-drilled, which eliminates the possibility of splitting the workpiece.

Video

If you want to sheathe your ceiling with eurolining, we recommend watching this video.