The procedure for laying the drainage pipe in the ditch. Drainage pipe laying. Discharge of water into a water body

Building a house is not only a costly undertaking, but also a very responsible one. Any owner of his home wants the building to serve as long as possible. For this, the foundation must be protected from the destructive effects of groundwater by equipping a drainage system. These works should be approached seriously, having determined the type of soil on the ground and deciding what diameter the pipe to be laid should have. It may have ready-made water holes.

To many, this work may seem unnecessary. But in reality, protection from soil water is extremely important. If the drainage is built correctly, it will avoid dampness in the basement and exclude the destruction of materials at the base of the foundation. Among other things, drainage is often necessary in a country house or personal plot, where groundwater is high, which interferes with the growth of shrubs and trees.

Where to start

Before you start laying, you need to find out how deep the groundwater is. This can be done by studying the water level in nearby wells. The well, dug to a depth of 5 to 15 m, is filled up to the groundwater level. Among other things, the marks on the walls of the well can be used to determine how high the water rises during the flood period.

The ideal solution that will help determine how deeply the soil water is poured is to conduct a geodetic examination. However, this approach will not decorate the site, so the owners quite often choose a more time-consuming construction process.

Choosing a place to install a drainage system

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine where on the site you will install the drainage system. There are two options for this:

wall drainage;
drainage along the perimeter of the site.

The first type of drainage takes place only near the foundation of the building and excludes the ingress of water inside. As for the drainage system along the perimeter of the site, it is necessary to protect the basement of buildings and other outbuildings, as well as plantings on the territory.

Choice of materials

The laying of the drainage pipe is accompanied by the use of some other materials. About three decades ago, there was no choice of pipes, so they had to use ceramic or asbestos-cement products, many holes were made in them before laying in the ground, where water penetrated. Today there are more affordable and convenient materials - corrugated polymer pipes, which have ready-made perforations.

Before laying the drainage pipe, you can purchase special products with geotextiles or coconut fibers. These materials guarantee filtration and prevent clogging of the system. The process of arranging the latter requires labor and preparation of the material. Before starting work, you should prepare:

sand;
crushed stone;
geotextile;
fitting.

To create a drainage system, you will need river sand. With its help, a pillow is set up at the bottom of the ditch. This will eliminate damage to the structure due to soil movements. To carry out the manipulations on laying the drainage pipe, two should be prepared. One of them should have a medium, while the other should have a large fraction. The main purpose of crushed stone is to create a filtering layer. In addition, it helps prevent debris in the water from getting inside.

Crushed stone eliminates damage to drainage pipes during soil movements. Geotextiles are made from synthetic fibers. It turns into a drainage layer of rubble. This material protects the pipes from siltation. But to connect the latter, you need fittings. Couplings will help ensure that the system can be rotated.

Why choose plastic pipes

Plastic pipes should be chosen for the arrangement for the reason that they are highly durable. They can be laid to an impressive depth - up to 10 m. Polymer products are ready to serve for a long time - up to 50 years and more. Their connection can be done quite simply using special couplings. The pipes do not have to be installed using special equipment, since they weigh a little. Moreover, transportation and unloading are simplified.

Before laying the drainage pipes with your own hands, you do not have to purchase an additional tool to cut the products, because this can be done with improvised devices. In order to exclude clogging of pipes with soil particles, it is imperative to use filters, without neglecting this step.

For the systems described, pipes of different diameters will be needed, but 150-mm and 300-mm products are most often used. The first ones are for diverting a small volume of water, but the second ones are for systems that are operated under increased load. For installation, you can use pipes of a larger section, they form the basis of the main line. A smaller section is used for branches.

Pipe-laying features: planning

If you decide to lay the drainage pipe yourself, the technology must be studied. At the first stage, it involves planning - drawing up a laying scheme. In this work, a geodetic examination will help, as a result of which it will be possible to find out what type of soil is on the territory, as well as how deep the groundwater is located. The data obtained will make it possible to understand what pipe diameter to choose, as well as to what depth to lay them.

Installation work

Before laying the pipe, you should prepare a ditch for it. To do this, a trench is dug, at the bottom of which a 15-cm layer of sand is poured. The surface is covered with geotextiles so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch. Next comes a layer of fine gravel. On top of it, which should be turned down.

During installation, it is necessary to maintain a slope, which will be directed towards the collection well. The slope options are 3 ° or more. Laying drainage pipes with geotextiles provides for inspection wells, which are needed to flush the system. These nodes will also be needed to control the drainage. There should be a minimum distance of 50 m between the wells. The wells should be located in those places where there will be pipeline turns or changes in the angle of inclination.

A filter is selected depending on the type of soil. If you have to work on light sandy loam or in loam, then pipes wrapped in geotextiles should be used. In the presence of heavy soils on the territory, it is better to prefer pipes previously wrapped in a canvas of coconut fiber.

Crushed stone is poured over the pipes, the thickness of the upper backfill layer is usually 40 cm. The crushed stone layer is covered with geotextile, which at the previous stage was fixed on the sides of the trench. From above, the system should be covered with soil and covered with the sod cut out earlier.

How to avoid mistakes

Before laying the drainage pipe in the ditch, you should familiarize yourself with the rules that will help eliminate mistakes. For example, in loamy soils, pipes cannot be used without a filter. It is important to ensure their bias. If the location for installing the collection well is chosen incorrectly, then this can be considered a mistake, as well as the untimely removal of water from it.

How deep to lay the drains

Before starting work, it is important to determine the depth of the drainage pipes. It will depend on several factors. One of the important conditions for determining the installation depth is the soil freezing line. This condition must be met so that the pipe does not freeze and is in working order during a flood. The freezing depth depends on the type of soil, as well as climatic conditions. For example, slightly less sandy ones freeze through, because they have greater porosity.

With regard to climatic conditions, the average annual temperature determines the depth of freezing: the lower it is, the greater the depth. Thus, laying in Arkhangelsk must be carried out taking into account the normative freezing depth of 160 cm for loamy and clayey soils. As for sandy loam and sands, in such soils the standard freezing depth is 176 cm. In Kazan, the first value is 160 cm, while the second is 176 cm, respectively. For Orenburg, the depth of soil freezing with the above-mentioned soils is 160 cm and 176 cm, respectively. In St. Petersburg, clay freezes by 120 cm, while sand and sandy loam - by 132 cm.

Conclusion

The rules for laying the drainage pipe say: the depth of soil freezing in fact differs from the standard. After all, the norms are given for the coldest case. Thus, the data mentioned above is the maximum depth of soil freezing. Usually in winter, ice and snow lie on the soil, which act as good heat insulators.

Another important condition is compliance with the recommendation: pipes must be laid 50 cm deeper than the lower mark of the foundation of the building, near which drainage will take place. This is to ensure that the groundwater is intercepted by the drainage system until it reaches the level of the base of the building.

Good day!
Actually, it is too early to draw up a report, since there was only 1 autumn, spring and 2 summers.
But nonetheless:
At the moment, my family and I are satisfied with the drainage work well %% by 90 (I think that the neighbors are also happy, since our lowest section has become drier and the neighbors' water-upper water leaves even faster).
Once again, I will clarify that the task of arranging a "garden" drainage at depths from 40 to 90 cm was carried out. For almost 60 meters with a decrease of almost 1 cm per linear meter of the drainage pipe measure the depths of all drainage branches). So inconveniently located our site 20x60 m.If there was an opportunity to arrange a drainage well in the middle of the site, then it would be possible to make a slope a little more, and most importantly, to start laying the drainage pipe from a depth of about 50 cm.There was no task to drain the foundation and drain the groundwater level. The occurrence of the groundwater level is approximately 1-1.5 meters. Therefore, our drainage did not fall below 90 cm, so as not to affect the GWL and not go broke on electricity for the constant pumping of water from the drainage well into the forest at a distance of 70 meters from the site.
Today, the idea of such a drainage works 100%. But you have to be more careful at the stage of execution. We were unlucky and we were deceived with sand, at first, instead of a washed river, we persuaded to take a quarry, demonstrating a car with a sample of sand, and when it came to the purchase of sand, they brought it with a high clay content (at the time of loading my car, an unsuccessful layer of sand was being developed at the quarry. with clay). And we discovered the presence of clay when already a third of 20 cubes were filled up and pieces of clay went to meet + it started raining and streams of clay flowed from the heap of sand.
But even in our version (although the throughput of sand with clay has decreased, and the geotextile of the pipe must have become clogged with clay from the sand), the situation with water disposal has improved a lot. After spring and heavy rains, water leaves the surface of the earth very quickly. Even various neighbors made a comment that our site became drier.
True, in the spring, drainage does not work until the earth thaws and the sand begins to let water into itself, that is, until the water becomes significantly warmer and stands on the soil surface, but as soon as the ice in the sand melted, the melt water disappears very quickly and the soil of the entire site dries out faster (we'll see in the next years, this year the snow melted very early, although the frosts lasted a long time).
But this summer, the drainage was checked by heavy rainfall. This summer there were terrible showers - we have not remembered this for a long time. Our lowest section in the area was covered with water and was almost like a lake. On the paths, the water level in some places was 10 centimeters high. When I arrived at the site, I decided that the pump had broken, since the drainage well was filled to capacity and the water was about to flood the pump outlet. However, after listening, I realized that the pump was working, it simply could not cope with the amount of incoming water.
Due to the danger of a short circuit in the outlet for the pump, it was necessary to temporarily plug it into an extension cord, which is padded out of the reach of water. The pump is not very powerful, only 450 watts and 7 cubic meters per hour. But in less than 12 hours after the rain, the water from the surface of the site disappeared and after 2-3 days the effects of the flood were not noticeable (the earth dried up and you could walk on it everywhere, and in the past, the water could stand in places for about 1 week and the earth everywhere it was stagnant and there were footprints in the ground).
Of course, such drainage is not storm drainage. The sand is not able to drain fast-moving water, but as a garden drainage - we (at the moment) consider this to be the ideal solution (it's a pity that we were so unlucky with sand). The only negative is that the pine tree growing next to the drainage well began to hurt and dry up, it turned out that it was now in the driest part of the site and it simply does not yet have roots at the depth where the water now stands. But on the other hand, all the other trees where drainage branches pass (no closer than 2 meters to the trees, where it is closer - there the drainage pipe is replaced by segments from a solid sewer pipe) feel great, there is no noticeable overload after spring long-standing water, I think the temperature of the earth should was to rise and the roots of plants now wake up faster and the growing season begins a little earlier.
Once again, I recommend buying exclusively river coarse sand or the so-called screening - sand mixed with very good. fine gravel. Don't trust sand sellers and don't settle for a career. Digging holes with a width of at least 40 cm - preferably from 50, so that the sand plays its role as a filter from clay and does not allow it to the geotextile of the pipe.

If you ask any experienced builder, developer, landscape designer about what needs to be done, first of all, on the only acquired and not yet built up site, then the answer will be unambiguous: the first is drainage, if there is a need for it. And such a need is almost always the case. Drainage of the site is always associated with a very large volume of earthworks, so it is better to do them right away, so as not to disturb the beautiful landscape later, which any good owners equip in their possessions.

Of course, the easiest way is to order drainage services for the site to specialists who will do everything quickly and correctly, with the involvement of special equipment. However, this will always come at a cost. Perhaps the owners did not plan these costs, perhaps they will violate the entire budget planned for the construction and arrangement of the site. In this article, we propose to consider the issue of how to drain the site with your own hands, since this will save a lot, and in most cases it is quite possible to do these works yourself.

What is the drainage of the site for?

Looking through the estimates and price lists associated with the drainage of the site, some developers begin to doubt the advisability of these measures. And the main argument is that before, in principle, no one really "bothered" on this. With this reasoning for refusing to drain the site, it is worth noting that the quality and comfort of human life has greatly improved. Nobody wants to live in dampness or in a house with earthen floors. No one wants to see cracks in their house, in the blind areas and paths that appeared after the next cold season. All homeowners want to beautify their site or, in a modern and fashionable way, to make a landscape design. After the rain, no one wants to "knead the mud" in stagnant puddles. If so, then drainage is definitely needed. You can do without it only in very rare cases. In which cases we will describe a little later.

Drainage? No, I have not heard ...

Drainage is nothing more than the removal of excess water from the surface of the site or from the depth of the soil. What is the drainage of the site for?

First of all, in order to remove excess water or from the foundations of buildings and structures. The appearance of water in the area of the basement base can either provoke a movement of the soil - the house will "float", which is typical for clay soils, or in combination with freezing, frost heaving forces may appear, which will create efforts to "squeeze" the house out of the ground.

The drainage is designed to remove water from basements and basements. No matter how effective waterproofing is, excess water will still seep through building structures. In basements of houses without drainage, dampness can appear, which will provoke the growth of mold and other fungi. In addition, atmospheric precipitation, in combination with the salts present in the soil, very often form aggressive chemical compounds that negatively affect building materials.

Drainage will prevent the "squeezing out" of the septic tank at a high level of groundwater. Without drainage, the wastewater treatment system will not last long.
Drainage, together with the system and around buildings, ensures rapid removal of water, preventing it from seeping to underground parts of buildings.
Drainage prevents waterlogging of the soil. In areas equipped with well-planned and made drainage, water will not stagnate.
Waterlogged soil can provoke rotting of the root parts of plants. Drainage prevents this and creates conditions for the growth of all garden, horticultural and ornamental plants.
With heavy precipitation in areas that have a slope, the fertile soil layer can be washed out by streams of water. Drainage directs water flows into the drainage system, thereby preventing soil erosion.

Water erosion of fertile soil in the absence of drainage is a serious problem in agriculture

If the site is surrounded by a fence built on a strip foundation, then it can "seal" the natural pathways for water drainage, creating conditions for waterlogging the soil. Drainage is designed to remove excess water from the perimeter of the site.
Drainage avoids the formation of puddles on playgrounds, sidewalks and garden paths.

When drainage is needed anyway

Consider those cases where drainage is needed in any case:

If the site is located on flat terrain, then drainage is required, since with a large amount of precipitation or melting snow, the water simply will have nowhere to go. According to the laws of physics, water always leaves under the action of gravity to a lower place, and on a flat landscape it will intensively saturate the soil downward, which can lead to waterlogging. So, from a drainage point of view, it is beneficial for the site to have a slight slope.
If the site is located in a lowland, then its drainage is definitely needed, since water will drain from higher places to those that are lower.
Areas with a steep slope also require drainage, as rapidly leaving water will erode the top fertile soil layers. It is better to direct these flows into drainage channels or pipes. Then the main part of the water will go through them, preventing the washing out of the soil layer.
If clay and heavy loamy soils prevail on the site, then after precipitation or melting of snow, water will often stagnate on them. Such soils prevent its penetration into the deep layers. Therefore, drainage is required.
If the groundwater level (GWL) in the area is less than 1 meter, then drainage is indispensable.

If the buildings on the site have a very deep foundation, then there is a high probability that its bottom will be in the zone of seasonal rise of groundwater. Therefore, it is necessary to plan drainage even at the stage of foundation work.
If a significant part of the area of the site is covered with artificial surfaces made of concrete, paving stones or paving slabs, as well as if there are lawns equipped with an automatic irrigation system, then drainage is also needed.

From this given impressive list, it becomes clear that drainage is necessary to one degree or another in most cases. But before planning and doing it, you need to study the site.

Study of the site for the relief of the type of soil and the level of groundwater

Each site is individual in terms of relief, soil composition and groundwater level. Even two adjacent areas can be very different from each other, although there will still be much in common between them. Modern requirements for construction suggest that the design of a house should begin only after geological and geodetic surveys have been carried out with the preparation of special reports, which will indicate a lot of data, most of which are understandable only to specialists. If we “translate” them into the language of ordinary citizens who have no education in the field of geology, hydrogeology and geodesy, then we can list them as follows:

Topographic survey of the site on which it is supposed. The photographs must indicate the cadastral boundaries of the site.
The characteristic of the relief, which should indicate what type of relief is present on the site (wavy or flat). If there are slopes, then their presence and direction are indicated, it is in the direction of them that water will flow. Attached is a topographic plan of the site with an indication of the contour lines of the relief.

Characteristics of the soil, what kind of soil it is and at what depth lies on the site. To do this, experts drill exploratory wells in different parts of the site, from where they take samples, which are then examined in the laboratory.
Physicochemical properties of soil. Its ability to be load-bearing for the planned house, as well as soil in combination with water, will affect concrete, metal and other building materials.
The presence and depth of groundwater, their seasonal fluctuations, taking into account exploration, archival and analytical data. It is also indicated in which soils water can appear and how they will affect the planned building structures.

The degree of heaving of soils, the possibility of landslides, subsidence, flooding and swelling.

The result of all these studies should be recommendations on the design and depth of the foundation, the degree of waterproofing, insulation, protection against aggressive chemical compounds, drainage. It happens that on a seemingly impeccable site, experts, in general, will not allow building such a house as the owners intended. For example, a house with a basement was planned, and the high ground level forces the specialists to recommend not to do this, therefore, instead of the originally planned strip foundation with a basement, they will recommend a pile foundation without underground premises. There is no reason not to trust these studies and specialists, since they have indisputable tools in their hands - measurements, drilling, laboratory experiments, statistics and calculations.

Of course, geological and geodetic surveys are not done free of charge, and they are done at the expense of the developer and they are mandatory on the new site. This fact is often the subject of indignation of some owners, but it is worth understanding that this procedure will help save a lot of money during the construction and further operation of the house, as well as when maintaining the site in good condition. Therefore, this only at first glance unnecessary and expensive bureaucracy is necessary and very useful.

If the site is purchased with existing buildings that have been in operation for at least several years, then you can also order geological and geodetic surveys, but you can do without them, and learn about groundwater, their seasonal rise and unpleasant impact on human life on other grounds. Of course, this will come with a certain amount of risk, but in most cases it works. What you should pay attention to?

First of all, this is communication with the former owners of the site. It is clear that it is not always in their interests to talk in detail about the problems with flooding, but, nevertheless, you can always find out if any drainage measures have been taken. This will not be hidden for anything.
Inspection of basements can tell a lot too. Regardless of whether cosmetic repairs were made there. If there is an increased level of humidity in the premises, then it will be immediately felt.

Getting to know neighbors and interviewing them can be much more informative than communicating with the former owners of the site and the house.
If there are wells or wells on your site and neighboring ones, then the water level in them will eloquently inform about the GWL. Moreover, it is advisable to observe how the level changes in different seasons. Theoretically, the maximum water should rise in the spring after the snow has melted. In summer, if there were dry periods, the water table should drop.
Plants growing on the site can also "tell" a lot to the owner. The presence of such plants as cattail, reed, sedge, horse sorrel, nettle, hemlock, foxglove indicate that the groundwater level is not more than 2.5-3 meters. Even if these plants continue their rapid growth even during a drought, this once again indicates the proximity of water. If licorice or wormwood grow on the site, then this is evidence that the water is at a safe depth.

Some sources speak of an ancient way of determining the level of groundwater, which our ancestors used before building a house. To do this, a piece of turf was removed in the area of interest and a shallow hole was dug, at the bottom of which a piece of wool was laid, an egg was placed on it, and the top was covered with an inverted clay pot and a removed turf. After dawn and sunrise, the pot was removed and the dew fell. If the egg and wool are covered with dew, then the water is shallow. If dew has fallen only on the wool, then there is water, but it is at a safe depth. If both the egg and the wool are dry, then the water is very deep. It may seem that this method is akin to charlatanism or shamanism, but in fact there is an absolutely correct explanation for it, from the point of view of science.
The growth of bright grass on the site even during a drought, as well as the appearance of fog in the evening hours, indicates the proximity of groundwater.
The best way to independently determine the GWL in the area is to drill test wells. To do this, you can use a conventional garden drill with extension cords. Drilling is best done during the highest water rise, that is, in the spring after the snow has melted. First of all, wells should be made at the construction site of a house or an existing structure. The well must be drilled to the depth of the foundation plus 50 cm. If water begins to appear in the well immediately or after 1-2 days, this indicates the imperative of drainage measures.

Starter Geological Exploration Kit - Garden Drill with Extension Bar

If after rain puddles stagnate on the site, then this may indicate the proximity of groundwater, as well as the fact that the soil is clayey or heavy loamy, which prevents the water from going deep into the depths normally. In this case, drainage is also necessary. It will still be very useful to upgrade the fertile soil to a lighter one, then there will be no problems with growing most garden and garden plants.

Even a very high level of groundwater on the site, although it is a big problem, is a problem that can be completely solved with the help of well-calculated and well-executed drainage. Let's give a good example - more than half of the territory of Holland lies below sea level, including the capital - the famous Amsterdam. The groundwater level in this country can be at a depth of several centimeters. Those who have been to Holland noticed that after the rain there are puddles that are not absorbed into the ground, since they simply have nowhere to absorb. Nevertheless, in this cozy country, the issue of land drainage is being resolved using a set of measures: dams, dams, polders, sluices, canals. Holland even has a special department, Watershap, which deals with flood protection. The abundance of many windmills in this country does not mean that they grind grain. Most mills pump water.

We do not at all call for the acquisition of a site with a high groundwater level, on the contrary, this must be avoided by all possible means. And the example of Holland was given only so that the readers could understand that there is a solution to any problem with groundwater. Moreover, in most of the territory of the former USSR, settlements and summer cottages are located in areas where GWL are within acceptable limits, and you can cope with seasonal rises on your own.

Types of drainage systems

There are a great many drainage systems and their varieties. Moreover, in different sources, their classification systems may differ from each other. We will try to tell you about the simplest, from a technical point of view, drainage systems, but at the same time, effective ones that will help solve the problem of removing excess water from the site. Another argument in favor of simplicity - the fewer elements any system has and the more time it can do without human intervention, the more reliable it will be.

Surface drainage

This type of drainage is the simplest, but, nevertheless, quite effective. It is intended mainly for draining water coming in the form of precipitation or melting snow, as well as for draining excess water during any technological processes, for example, when washing cars or garden paths. Surface drainage is done in any case around buildings or other structures, sites, places of exit from the garage or yard. Surface drainage is of two main types:

Point drainage designed to collect and drain water from a specific place. This type of drainage is also called local drainage. The main locations for spot drainage are under roof gutters, in pits in front of doors and garage doors, at the locations of irrigation taps. And also point drainage, in addition to its direct purpose, can complement another type of surface drainage system.

Storm water inlet - the main element of point surface drainage

Linear drainage needed to remove water from a larger area in comparison with a point. It is a collection trays and channels, mounted with a slope, equipped with various elements: sand traps (with sand traps), protective grilles performing a filtering, protective and decorative function. Trays and channels can be made from a wide variety of materials. First of all, it is plastic in the form of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polypropylene (PP), low-pressure polyethylene (HDPE). And also materials such as concrete or polymer concrete are widely used. Plastic gratings are most often used, but in areas where increased stress is expected, stainless steel or even cast iron products can be used. Linear drainage works require concrete preparation of the base.

Obviously, any good surface drainage system almost always combines the elements of a point and a linear one. And all of them together are combined into a common drainage system, which may also include another subsystem, which we will consider in the next section of our article.

Prices for the stormwater inlet

storm water inlet

Deep drainage

Surface drainage alone, in most cases, cannot be dispensed with. In order to qualitatively solve the problem, another type of drainage is needed - deep drainage, which is a system of special drainage pipes (drains) laid in those places where it is required to lower the groundwater level or divert water from the protected area. Drains are laid with a bias to the side collector, well , artificial or natural reservoir on the site or outside. Naturally, they are laid below the level of the basement of the protected building or along the perimeter of the site at a depth of 0.8-1.5 meters to lower the groundwater level to non-critical values. Drains can also be laid in the middle of the site at a certain interval, which is calculated by specialists. Usually the interval between the pipes is 10-20 meters, and they are laid in the form of a herringbone directed towards the main outlet pipe-collector. It all depends on the level of groundwater and their amount.

When laying drains in trenches, it is imperative to use all the features of the site's relief. Water will always go from a higher place to a lower one, therefore, the drains are laid in the same way. It is much more difficult if the site is absolutely flat, then the required slope is given to the pipes by giving a certain level of the bottom of the trenches. It is customary to make a slope of 2 cm per 1 meter of pipe for clay and loamy soils and 3 cm per 1 meter for sandy soils. Obviously, with sufficiently long drains, it will be difficult to maintain the required slope on a flat area, since by 10 meters of the pipe there will already be a level difference of 20 or 30 cm, therefore a forced measure is the organization of several drainage wells that will be able to receive the required volume of water.

It should be noted that even with a lower slope, water, even at 1 cm per 1 meter or less, will still, obeying the laws of physics, try to go below the level, but the flow rate will be less, and this can contribute to silting and clogging of drains. And any owner who at least once in his life laid sewer or drainage pipes knows that it is much more difficult to maintain a very small slope than a large one. Therefore, in this matter, you should not be "shy" and boldly set a slope of 3, 4 and even 5 cm per meter of the drainage pipe, if the length and the planned depth difference of the trench allows.

Drainage wells are one of the most important components of deep drainage. They can be of three main types:

Rotary wells – arrange where the drains make a turn or there is a connection of several elements. These elements are needed for revision and cleaning of the drainage system, which must be done periodically. They can be as small in diameter, which will only allow cleaning and rinsing with a jet of water under pressure, but they can also be wide, which provide human access.

Water intake wells - their purpose is absolutely clear from their name. In those areas where it is not possible to divert water to the depth or beyond, it becomes necessary to collect water. These wells are designed for just that. Previously, they were mainly a structure of monolithic concrete, concrete rings or plastered bricks. Nowadays, plastic containers of various sizes are most often used, which are protected from clogging or silting with geotextiles and sprinkling from crushed stone or gravel. The water collected in the intake well can be pumped out of the site using special submersible drainage pumps, it can be pumped out and taken out by tank trucks, or it can settle in the well or pool for further irrigation.

Absorption wells are intended for drainage of water in the event that the relief of the site does not allow moisture to be removed outside of it, but the underlying soil layers have good absorbency. These soils include sandy and sandy loam. Such wells are made of large diameters (about 1.5 meters) and depths (at least 2 meters). The well is filled with filtering material in the form of sand, sand and gravel mixture, crushed stone, gravel, broken brick or slag. To prevent the ingress of eroded fertile soil or various blockages from above, the well is covered with fertile soil. Naturally, the side walls and bottom are protected with sprinkling. Water, getting into such a well, is filtered by its contents and goes deep into sandy or sandy loam soils. The ability of such wells to withdraw water from the site may be limited, therefore, they are satisfied when the expected throughput should not exceed 1-1.5 m 3 per day.

Of the drainage systems, the main and most important is deep drainage, since it is this that provides the required water regime for both the site and all the buildings on it. Any mistake in the design and installation of deep drainage can lead to very unpleasant consequences that can lead to the death of plants, flooding of basements, destruction of house foundations, and uneven drainage of the site. That is why it is recommended not to neglect geological and geodetic studies and ordering a drainage system project from specialists. If it is possible to correct flaws in surface drainage without severely disturbing the landscape of the site, then with deep drainage everything is much more serious, the cost of an error is too high.

Well prices

Overview of accessories for drainage systems

For the independent execution of the drainage of the site and the buildings located on it, you need to find out what components will be required for this. Of the widest selection of them, we tried to show the most used at the present time. If earlier the market was dominated by Western manufacturers who, as monopolists, dictated high prices for their products, now a sufficient number of domestic enterprises offer their products, which are in no way inferior in quality.

Surface drainage details

For point and linear surface drainage, the following parts can be used:

Name, manufacturer	Purpose and description
Concrete drainage channel 1000 * 140 * 125 mm with stamped galvanized steel grating. Production - Russia.	Designed for surface water drainage. Capacity 4.18 l / s, capable of carrying loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	RUB 880
Concrete drainage tray with cast iron grating, dimensions 1000 * 140 * 125 mm. Production - Russia.	Purpose and bandwidth are the same as in the previous example. Capable of bearing loads up to 25 tons (C250).	RUB 1480
Concrete drainage channel with galvanized steel mesh grating, dimensions 1000 * 140 * 125 mm. Production - Russia.	The purpose and capacity are the same. Capable of bearing loads up to 12.5 tons (B125).	RUB 1,610
Polymer concrete drainage tray 1000 * 140 * 70 mm with a plastic lattice. Production - Russia.	The purpose is the same, the throughput is 1.9 l / s. Capable of bearing loads up to 1.5 tons (A15). The material combines the advantages of plastic and concrete.	RUB 820
Polymer concrete drainage tray 1000 * 140 * 70 mm with a cast-iron lattice. Production - Russia.	The bandwidth is the same. Able to withstand up to 25 tons of load (C250).	1420 RUB
Polymer concrete drainage channel 1000 * 140 * 70 mm with a steel mesh lattice. Production - Russia.	The bandwidth is the same. Able to withstand up to 12.5 tons of load (B125).	RUB 1550
Plastic drainage tray 1000 * 145 * 60 mm with stamped galvanized grating. Production - Russia.	Made of frost-resistant polypropylene. Capacity 1.8 l / sec. Capable of bearing loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	RUB 760
Plastic drainage tray 1000 * 145 * 60 mm with a cast-iron lattice. Production - Russia.	Capacity 1.8 l / sec. Capable of bearing loads up to 25 tons (C250).	1360 RUB
Complete plastic storm water inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Dimensions 300 * 300 * 300 mm. With plastic grill. Production - Russia.	Designed for point drainage of water flowing from the roof through the drain pipe, and can also be used to collect water under yard, garden watering taps. It can be connected to fittings with diameters of 75, 110, 160 mm. The removable basket allows for quick cleaning. Withstands loads of up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with partitions-siphons, a waste collection basket and a plastic grate - 1000 rubles.
Complete plastic storm water inlet (siphon-partitions 2 pcs., Waste basket - 1 pc.). Size 300 * 300 * 300 mm. With a cast-iron lattice "Snowflake". Production - Russia.	The purpose is similar to the previous one. Withstands loads up to 25 tons (C250).	For a set together with partitions-siphons, a waste collection basket and a cast-iron grate - 1550 rubles.
Trash box - plastic with galvanized steel grating. Dimensions 500 * 116 * 320 mm.	Designed to collect dirt and debris in surface linear drainage systems. It is installed at the end of the line of gutters (trays) and then it is connected to the pipes of the storm sewer system with a diameter of 110 mm. Capable of bearing loads up to 1.5 tons (A15).	For a set together with gratings 975 rubles.

In the table, we deliberately showed Russian-made trays and storm water inlets, made of materials that are different from each other and having different configurations. It is also worth noting that the trays have different widths and depths and, accordingly, their throughput is also not the same. There are a lot of options for the materials from which they are made and the sizes, there is no need to cite all of them, since it depends on many factors: the required throughput, the expected load on the soil, the specific scheme for the implementation of the drainage system. That is why it is best to entrust the calculations of the drainage system to specialists who will calculate the required size and quantity, and select the components.

There was absolutely no need to talk about possible components for drainage trays, storm water inlets and sand traps in the table, since in each case they will be different. When buying, if there is a system project, the seller will always suggest the right ones. They can be end caps for trays, fasteners for gratings, various corner and transition elements, reinforcing profiles and others.

A few words should be said about sand traps and storm water inlets. If surface linear drainage around the house is implemented with storm inlets in the corners (and this is usually done), then sand traps are not required. Storm inlets with siphon partitions and waste baskets perfectly cope with their role. If the linear drainage does not have storm water inlets and goes into a sewer drainage pipe, then a sand trap is required. That is, any transition from drainage trays to pipes should be done either with the help of a storm water inlet or a sand trap. Only this way and not otherwise! This is done so that sand and various heavy debris does not fall into the pipes, as this can lead to their rapid wear, and they and drainage wells will also clog over time. It is hard to disagree that it is easier to periodically remove and rinse baskets while on the surface than to go down into wells.

Surface drainage also includes wells and pipes, but they will be discussed in the next section, since, in principle, they are the same for both types of systems.

Deep drainage parts

Deep drainage is a more complex engineering system that requires more parts. In the table we will give only the main ones, since all their diversity will take up a lot of space and attention of our readers. If you wish, it will not be difficult to find the catalogs of the manufacturers of these systems, to select the necessary parts and accessories for them.

Name and manufacturer	Purpose and description	Estimated price (as of October 2016)
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 63 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-wall in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and areas. Wrapped with geotextile to prevent clogging of pores with soil, sand, which prevents clogging and silting. They have full (circular) perforation. Made of high density polyethylene (HDPE). Stiffness class SN-4. Laying depth up to 4 m.	For 1 l.m. RUB 48
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-wall in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 l.m. RUB 60
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 160 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-wall in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 l.m. RUB 115
Drainage pipe with a diameter of 200 mm made of HDPE corrugated single-wall in a geotextile filter. Producer "Sibur", Russia.	similar to above	For 1 l.m. RUB 190
Single-wall corrugated drainage pipes made of HDPE with a filter made of coconut coir with diameters of 90, 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and areas on clay and peat soils. Coconut coir has increased reclamation and strength compared to geotextiles. They have circular perforations. Stiffness class SN-4. Laying depth up to 4 m.	219, 310, 744, 1074 rubles. for 1 lm (depending on the diameter).
Double-layer drainage pipes with a filter from Typar SF-27 geotextiles. The outer layer of HDPE is corrugated, the inner layer of LDPE is smooth. Diameters 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to remove excess moisture from foundations and areas on all types of soils. They have full (circular) perforation. The outer layer protects against mechanical stress, and the inner layer allows more water to be removed due to its smooth surface. The two-layer construction has a stiffness class SN-6 and allows pipes to be laid at a depth of 6 meters.	160, 240, 385 rubles. for 1 lm (depending on the diameter).
PVC pipes for sewage are smooth with a socket with an outer diameter of 110, 125, 160, 200 mm, length, respectively, 1061, 1072, 1086, 1106 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for the organization of an external sewerage system, as well as a storm sewer or drainage system. They have a stiffness class SN-4, which allows them to be laid at a depth of 4 meters.	180, 305, 270, 490 rubles. for pipes: 110 * 1061 mm, 125 * 1072 mm, 160 * 1086 mm, 200 * 1106 mm, respectively.
Well shafts with a diameter of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to create drainage wells (rotary, water intake, absorption). They have a two-layer construction. Ring stiffness SN-4. The maximum length is 6 meters.	950, 1650, 3700, 7400 rubles. for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Bottom-cap of wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm from HDPE. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed to create drainage wells: rotary or water intake.	940, 1560, 4140, 7100 for wells with diameters of 340, 460, 695, 923 mm, respectively.
Inserts into the well in place with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for tapping into a well at any level of sewer or drainage pipes of appropriate diameters.	350, 750, 2750 rub. for tie-ins with diameters of 110, 160, 200 mm, respectively.
Polymer concrete hatch for drainage wells with a diameter of 340 mm. Country of origin - Russia.		RUB 500
Polymer concrete hatch for drainage wells with a diameter of 460 mm. Country of origin - Russia.	Designed for installation on drainage wells. Withstands loads up to 1.5 tons.	850 RUB
Polyester geotextile with a density of 100 g / m². Country of origin - Russia.	Used to create drainage systems. It is not subject to decay, mold, rodents and insects. Roll line from 1 to 6 m.	RUB 20 for 1 m².

The table shows that the cost of even Russian-made parts for drainage systems can hardly be called cheap. But the effect of their use will delight the owners of the site for at least 50 years. It is this service life that the manufacturer claims. Considering that the material for the manufacture of drainage parts is absolutely inert with respect to all substances found in nature, it can be assumed that the service life will be much longer than stated.

Previously, widely used asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes, we deliberately did not indicate in the table, since apart from the high price and difficulties in transportation and installation, they will not bring anything. This is yesterday's age.

To create drainage systems, there are many more components from various manufacturers. These include trough parts, which can be throughput, connecting, prefabricated and dead-end. They are designed to connect drainage pipes of various diameters to wells. They provide for drainage pipe connections at different angles.

With all the obvious advantages of chute parts with sockets for pipes, their price is very high. For example, the part shown in the picture above costs 7 thousand rubles. Therefore, in most cases, the well cut-outs indicated in the table are used. Another advantage of sidebars is that they can be done at any level and at any angle to each other.

In addition to those parts for drainage systems that are indicated in the table, there are many others that are selected by calculation and during installation on site. These can include a variety of collars and o-rings, couplings, tees and crosses, check valves for drainage and sewer pipes, eccentric transitions and necks, bends, plugs and much more. Their correct selection should be dealt with, first of all, during design, and then adjustments should be made during installation.

Video: How to choose a drainage pipe

Video: Drainage wells

If readers find articles on drainage on the Internet, where it is said that it is easy to do drainage with your own hands, then we advise you to immediately close this article without reading. Making drainage with your own hands is not an easy task. But, the main thing is that this is possible if you do everything consistently and correctly.

Site drainage system design

A drainage system is a complex engineering object that requires an appropriate attitude towards itself. Therefore, we recommend that our readers order the design of the drainage of the site from professionals who will take into account absolutely everything: the relief of the site, and the existing (or planned) buildings, and the composition of the soil, and the depth of the groundwater level, and other factors. After the design, the customer will have a set of documents on hand, which includes:

Site plan with its relief.
A scheme for laying pipes for wall or ring drainage with an indication of the cross-section and type of pipes, the depth of occurrence, the necessary slopes, the location of the wells.
Drainage diagram of the site also indicating the depth of the trenches, types of pipes, slopes, the distance between adjacent drains, the location of rotary or water intake wells.

It will be difficult to independently make a detailed design of the drainage system without knowledge and experience. That is why you should contact professionals

Scheme of surface point and linear drainage with an indication of the size of trays, sand traps, storm water inlets, sewer pipes used, the location of water intake wells.
Transverse dimensions of wall and deep drainage trenches with indication of depth, material and thickness of backfill, type of geotextile used.
Calculation of the necessary components and materials.
An explanatory note to the project, describing the entire drainage system and the technology for performing the work.

The project of the drainage system of the site is much lower than the architectural one, so we strongly advise you once again to contact the specialists. This minimizes the likelihood of errors when setting up drainage yourself.

House Wall Drainage Equipment

To protect the foundations of houses from the effects of groundwater, so-called wall drainage is made, which is located around the entire house on the outside at a certain distance from the base of the foundation. usually it is 0.3-0.5 m, but in any case no more than 1 meter. Wall drainage is done even at the stage of building a house, together with measures for insulation and waterproofing of the foundation. When is this type of drainage necessary anyway?

Drainage system prices

When the house has a basement.

When the buried parts of the foundation are at a distance of no more than 0.5 meters above the groundwater level.
When the house is being built on clay or loamy soils.

All modern house projects almost always provide for wall drainage. An exception can be only those cases when the foundation is laid on sandy soils that do not freeze by more than 80 cm.

A typical design of wall drainage is shown in the figure.

At some distance from the foot of the foundation, approximately 30 cm below its level, an equalizing layer of sand of 10 cm is made, on which a geotextile membrane with a density of at least 150 g / m2 is laid, on which a layer of crushed stone of fraction 20-40 mm with a thickness of at least 10 cm is laid. Washed gravel may well be used instead of crushed stone. It is better to use crushed stone granite, but not limestone, since the latter tends to be washed out gradually with water. A drainage pipe wrapped in geotextile is laid on a crushed stone pillow. The pipes are given the required slope - not less than 2 cm per 1 running meter of the pipe.

In the places where the pipe turns, inspection and inspection wells must be made. The rules allow them to be done after one turn, but practice suggests that it is better not to save on this and put them at each turn. The slope of the pipes is made in one direction (in the figure from point K1, through points K2 and K3, to point K4). In this case, it is imperative to take into account the terrain. It is assumed that K1 is at the highest point and K4 is at the lowest.

Drains are cut into the wells not from the very base, but with an indentation of at least 20 cm from the bottom. Then the trapped small debris or silt will not linger in the pipes, but will settle in the well. In the future, when revising the system, you can wash out the silted bottom with a strong jet of water, which will carry away everything unnecessary. If the soil in the area where the wells are located has good absorbing capacity, then the bottom is not made. In all other cases, it is better to equip the wells with a bottom.

On top of the drains, a layer of crushed stone or washed gravel with a thickness of at least 20 cm is again poured, and then the ace is wrapped with a previously laid geotextile membrane. On top of such a "wrapped" structure of a drainage pipe and crushed stone, a backfill is made of sand, and from above, after its ramming, a blind area of the building is already organized, which is also designed, but already in the surface linear drainage system. Even if atmospheric water enters from the outside of the foundation, then, passing through the sand, it will enter the drains and through them, ultimately, it will merge into the main collection well, which can be equipped with a pump. If the relief of the site allows, then an overflow is made from the collector well without a pump, which removes water outside into a gutter, an artificial or natural reservoir or a storm sewer system. In no case should you connect the drainage to a regular sewer system.

If the groundwater begins to "prop up" from below, then they, first of all, saturate the sand preparation and crushed stone in which the drains are located. The speed of water movement along the drains is higher than in the ground, so the water is quickly removed and discharged into the collector well, which is laid lower than the drains. It turns out that inside a closed circuit of drainage pipes, water simply cannot rise above the level of the drains, which means that both the base of the foundation and the floor in the basement will be dry.

Such a wall drainage scheme is very often used and works very effectively. But it has a significant drawback. This is backfilling of the entire cavity between the foundation and the edge of the excavation with sand. Given the considerable volume of the sinus, this filling will have to pay a tidy sum. But there is a beautiful way out of this situation. In order not to backfill with sand, you can use a special profiled geomembrane, which is a canvas made of HDPE or LDPE with various additives, having a relief surface in the form of small truncated cones. When the underground part of the foundation is pasted over with such a membrane, it performs two main functions.

The geomembrane itself is an excellent waterproofing agent. It prevents moisture from penetrating the walls of the underground foundation structure.
The relief surface of the membrane ensures that the water that appears on it flows freely downward, where it is "intercepted" by the laid drains.

The design of a back-to-wall drainage using a geomembrane is shown in the following figure.

On the outer wall of the foundation, after measures for and insulation (if necessary), a geomembrane is glued or mechanically attached with a relief part (pimples) outward. A geotextile cloth with a density of 150-200 g / m² is fixed on top of it, which will prevent the contamination of the relief part of the geomembrane with soil particles. Further organization of drainage is usually carried out: a drain is placed on a layer of sand, covered with rubble and wrapped in geotextiles. Only the filling of the sinuses is not done with sand or gravel, but with ordinary soil taken out when digging a foundation pit or with clay, which is much cheaper.

Drainage of water, "propping up" the foundation from below, proceeds as in the previous case. But the water entering the wall from the outside through the moistened soil or penetrating into the gap between the foundation and the soil will follow the path of least resistance: seep through the geotextile, flow freely along the relief surface of the geomembrane, pass through the rubble and fall into the drain. Foundations protected in this way will not be threatened by anything for a minimum of 30-50 years. The basement floors of such houses will always be dry.

Consider the main stages of creating a wall drainage system at home.

Image	Description of actions
	After measures have been taken to build the foundation, its primary coating, and then roll waterproofing and insulation, on the outer wall of the foundation, including its sole, using a special mastic that does not corrode expanded polystyrene, the geomembrane is glued with the embossed part outward. The upper part of the membrane should protrude at least 20 cm beyond the level of the future backfill, and the lower one should reach the very bottom of the foundation, including the sole.
	The joints of most geomembranes have a special lock, which "snaps into place" by overlapping one sheet over another, and then tapping a rubber hammer.
	On top of the geomembrane, a geotextile cloth with a density of 150-200 g / m² is fixed. It is better to use thermally bonded geotextiles rather than needle-punched ones, as they are less prone to clogging. For fixing, disc dowels are used. The step of fixing the dowels is no more than 1 m horizontally and no more than 2 m vertically. The overlap of adjacent geotextile canvases on top of each other is at least 10-15 cm. Dowel-shaped dowels should fall on the joint.
	In the upper part of the geomembrane and geotextile, it is recommended to use a special mounting plate, which will press both layers against the foundation structure.
	The bottom of the pit from the outside of the foundation is cleaned to the required level. The level can be controlled with a theodolite with a measuring bar, a laser level and an improvised wooden bar with marked marks, stretched and exposed using a hydraulic level with a stretched cord. You can also "beat off" a horizontal line on the wall and measure the depth with a tape measure.
	Washed sand is poured onto the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is moistened with water and rammed mechanically or manually until there are practically no traces left when walking.
	Inspection and inspection wells are installed in the designated places. To do this, it is enough to use shafts with a diameter of 340 or 460 mm. Having measured the desired length, they can be cut either with an ordinary hacksaw for wood, or with a jigsaw, or with a reciprocating saw. Initially, the wells must be cut by 20-30 cm more than the calculated length, and later, when decorating the landscape, they must be adjusted to fit it.
	Bottoms are installed on the wells. To do this, in single-layer wells (for example, Wavin), a rubber cuff is placed in the rib of the body, then it is lubricated with soapy water and the bottom is fitted. It must enter with effort.
	In two-layer wells of Russian production, before installing the cuff, it is necessary to cut out a strip of the inner layer with a knife, and then do it in the same way as in the previous case.
	The wells are installed in their intended places. The platforms for their installation are compacted and leveled. On their lateral surfaces, marks are made of the entrance and exit of the centers of the drains (taking into account the slopes of 2 cm per 1 running meter of the pipe). We remind you that the entrances and exits of the drains must be at least 20 cm from the bottom.
	For the convenience of inserting couplings, it is better to place the wells horizontally and make holes with a crown with a center drill corresponding to the coupling. In the absence of a crown, you can make holes with a jigsaw, but this requires certain skills.
	After that, the edges are deburred with a knife or brush.
	The outer rubber sleeve of the coupling is placed inside the hole. It should equally go inside the well and remain outside (about 2 cm each).
	The inner surface of the rubber sleeve of the coupling is lubricated with soapy water, and then the plastic part is inserted until it stops. The abutment of the rubber part of the coupling to the well can be coated with a waterproof sealant.
	Wells are installed in place and aligned vertically. Geotextile is spread on a sand cushion. Granite crushed stone of 5-20 mm fraction or washed gravel with a layer of at least 10 cm is poured onto it. In this case, the necessary slopes of the drainage pipes are taken into account. Crushed stone is leveled and compacted.
	Perforated drainage pipes of the required size are measured and cut. The pipes are inserted into couplings cut into the wells after lubricating the cuff with soapy water. Their bias is checked.
	A layer of crushed stone or gravel of at least 20 cm is poured on top of the drains.Then the edges of the geotextile fabric are wrapped on top of each other and sprinkled on top with a 20 cm layer of sand.
	In the designated place, a pit is dug for the collector well of the drainage system. The level of its occurrence, of course, must be below the lowest drain in order to receive water from the wall drainage. A trench is being dug to this pit from the lower level inspection and inspection well to lay the sewer pipe.
	Shafts with diameters of 460, 695 and even 930 mm can be used as a collector well. A prefabricated well of reinforced concrete rings can also be equipped. Inserting the sewer pipe into the receiving collector well is done in the same way as for drains.
	The sewer pipe leading from the wall drainage bottom at the level of the well to the collector well is laid on a 10 cm sand cushion and sprinkled on top with sand at least 10 cm thick. After compacting the sand, the trench is covered with soil.
	The system is tested for operability. To do this, water is poured into the top-most well. After filling the bottom, water should begin to flow through the drains into other wells and, after filling their bottoms, eventually flow into the collector well. There should be no reverse current.
	After checking the operability, the sinuses between the edge of the pit are covered with soil. It is preferable to use quarry clay for this, which will create a waterproof lock around the foundation.
	The wells are closed with lids to avoid clogging. Final trimming and installation of covers should be done in conjunction with landscaping.

The collector sump can be equipped with a non-return valve, which, even if it is overfilled, does not allow water to flow back into the drains. And also in the well it can be automatic. When the groundwater level rises to critical values, water will collect in the well. The pump is configured so that when a certain level in the well is exceeded, it will turn on and pump out water outside the site or into other containers or reservoirs. Thus, the groundwater level in the basement area will always be lower than the laid drains.

It happens that for the system of wall drainage and surface drainage, one collector well is used. Experts do not recommend doing this, since during intensive snow melting or heavy rains, a very large amount of water will be collected in a short time, which will only interfere with inspecting the groundwater level in the area of the foundation. It is better to collect water from precipitation and melted snow in separate containers and use it for irrigation. In the event of an overflow of storm wells, water from them can be pumped to another place in the same way with a drainage pump.

Video: Wall drainage at home

House ring drainage equipment

Ring drainage, in contrast to wall drainage, is not located close to the foundation structure, but at a certain distance from it: from 2 to 10 meters or more. In what cases is it exactly the ring drainage that is arranged?

If the house has already been built and any interference with the construction of the foundation is undesirable.
If the house does not have a basement.
If the house or group of buildings is built on sandy or sandy loam soils that have good water permeability.
If other types of drainage cannot cope with the seasonal rise of groundwater.

Regardless of the fact that ring drainage is much simpler in practical implementation, the attitude towards it should be more serious than towards the wall drainage. Why?

A very important characteristic is the depth of the drains. In any case, the depth of the laying should be greater than the depth of the basement sole or the level of the basement floor.
The distance from the foundation to the drain is also an important characteristic. The more sandy the soil, the greater the distance should be. And vice versa - the more clayey soils, the closer drains can be located to the foundation.
When calculating the ring foundation, the groundwater level, its seasonal fluctuations and the direction of their inflow are also taken into account.

Based on the foregoing, we can safely say that it is better to entrust the calculation of the ring drainage to specialists. It would seem that the closer the drain is to the house and the deeper it is laid, the better it will be for the protected structure. It turns out not! Any drainage changes the hydrogeological situation in the basement area, which is not always good. The task of drainage is not to completely drain the site, but to lower the GWL to such values that will not interfere with the life of humans and plants. Drainage is a kind of contract with the forces of Mother Nature, and not an attempt to "rewrite" the current laws.

One of the options for the device of the ring drainage system is shown in the figure.

It can be seen that a trench has been dug around the house, outside the blind area, to such a depth that the upper part of the drainage pipe lies 30-50 cm below the bottom point of the foundation. The trench is lined with geotextile and the pipe itself is also encased in it. The minimum underlying layer of crushed stone should be at least 10 cm. The minimum slope of drains with a diameter of 110-200 mm is 2 cm per 1 running meter of the pipe. The figure shows that the entire trench is covered with rubble. This is perfectly acceptable and does not contradict anything other than common sense, from the point of view of unnecessary spending.

The diagram shows that the inspection and control wells are delivered through one turn, which is quite acceptable if the drainage pipe is laid in a single piece, without any fittings. But it's still better to do them at every turn. This will greatly facilitate maintenance of the drainage system over time.

The ring drainage system can perfectly "get along" with the surface point and linear drainage system. In one trench, drains can be laid at the lower level, and sewer pipes can be laid next to them or on top in a layer of sand, leading from trays and storm water inlets to a rainwater and melt water collection well. If the path of both one and the other leads to one collector drainage well, then this is generally wonderful, the number of earthworks is significantly reduced. Although, recall that we recommended collecting these waters separately. They can be collected together only in one case - if all the water from precipitation and extracted from the soil is removed (naturally or forcibly) from the site into the collective storm sewer system, gutter or reservoir.

When organizing an annular drainage, a trench is first dug to the design depth. The width of the trench in the area of its bottom should be at least 40 cm, the bottom of the trench is immediately given a certain slope, the control of which is most conveniently carried out by the theodolite, and in its absence, a horizontally stretched cord and a measuring rod from available means will help.

Washed sand is poured onto the bottom with a layer of at least 10 cm, which is carefully rammed. Obviously, it is impossible to do this in a narrow trench in a mechanized way, therefore they use a manual rammer.

Installation of wells, inserting couplings, adding granite crushed stone or gravel, laying and connecting drains is done in the same way as when organizing wall drainage, so there is no point in repeating. The difference is that with ring drainage, it is better to fill the trench after crushed stone and geotextile not with soil, but with sand. Only the upper fertile soil layer of about 10-15 cm is poured. Then, already with the landscape equipment of the site, the places where the drains are laid are taken into account and trees or shrubs with a powerful root system are not planted in these places.

Video: Drainage around the house

Equipment for surface point and linear drainage

As in all cases, a surface drainage system can be successfully installed only if there is a project or at least a self-made plan. On this plan, it is necessary to take into account everything - from the points of water intake, to the container where rain and melt water will drain. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the slopes of pipelines and trays, the direction of movement along the trays.

The surface drainage system can be installed with an existing blind area, paths from paving slabs or paving stones. It is possible that in which one of their parts it will be necessary to intervene, but this still does not require a complete dismantling. Consider an example of installing a surface drainage system using the example of polymer concrete trays and sand traps (sand traps) and sewer pipes.

To carry out the work, you will need a very simple set of tools:

Shovels shovel and bayonet;
Construction bubble level from 60 cm long;
Bench hammer;
Rubber hammer for laying tiles or paving stones;
Construction marking cord and a set of stakes made of wood or pieces of reinforcement;
Trowel and spatulas;
Roulette;
Construction knife;
Chisel;
Angle grinder (grinder) with discs of at least 230 mm for stone and metal;
Capacity for the preparation of solutions.

The further process is presented in the form of a table.

Image	Process description
	Taking into account the plan or project of surface drainage, it is necessary to determine the points of water discharge, that is, those places where the water collected from the surface will go into the sewer pipeline leading to the drainage well. The depth of this pipeline must be made below the depth of soil freezing, which for most inhabited climatic zones of Russia is 60-80 cm. It is in our interests to minimize the number of discharge points, but ensure the required drainage capacity.
	Water discharge into the pipeline must be done either through sand traps or through storm water inlets to ensure filtration of debris and sand. First of all, it is necessary to provide for their connection using standard shaped elements of the external sewage system to the pipeline and try on these elements at the installation site.
	It is better to provide for the connection of storm water inlets located under the drain pipes in advance, even at the stage of arranging the wall drainage, so that when the snow melts during the thaw and off-season, the water flowing from the roofs immediately falls into the underground pipeline and does not freeze in trays, on blind areas and paths.
	If it is not possible to install sand traps, then the sewer pipeline can be connected directly to the trays. For this, there are special technological holes in polymer concrete trays that allow connecting a vertical pipeline.
	Some manufacturers have special baskets fixed in a vertical water discharge that protect the drainage system from clogging.
	Most plastic trays, in addition to vertical connection, can also have side ones. But this should be done only when there is confidence in the purity of the discharged water, since it is much more difficult to clean drainage wells and drainage tanks than baskets.
	To install surface drainage elements, you first need to select the soil to the required depth and width. To do this, with an existing lawn, cut the sod to the required width, which is defined as the width of the element to be installed plus 20 cm - 10 cm on each side. It may be necessary to dismantle curbs and outer rows of paving slabs or paving stones.
	In depth for the installation of drainage elements, it is necessary to select the soil by the value of the depth of the element plus 20 cm. Of these, 10 cm for sand or crushed stone preparation, and 10 cm for a concrete base. The soil is removed, the base is cleaned and rammed, and then backfill is made from crushed stone of fraction 5-20 mm. Then pegs are driven in and a cord is pulled, which will determine the level of the trays to be installed.
	Surface drainage elements are tried on at the place of installation. In this case, the direction of water flow should be taken into account, which is usually indicated on the side surface of the trays.
	Holes are made in the drainage elements for connecting sewer pipes. In plastic trays, this is done with a knife, and in polymer concrete with a chisel and a hammer.
	When fitting parts, it may be necessary to cut off part of the tray. Plastic can be easily cut with a hacksaw, and polymer concrete with a grinder. Galvanized metal gratings are cut with metal scissors, and cast iron gratings are cut with a grinder.
	End caps are installed on the last trays using a special adhesive-sealant.
	For the installation of surface drainage elements, it is best to use ready-made dry mixes of M-300 sand concrete, which are in the assortment of many manufacturers. A solution is prepared in a suitable container, which should be dense in consistency. Installation is best done from discharge points - sand traps. Concrete is laid on the prepared base.
	Then it is leveled with a trowel and a sand trap is installed on this pillow.
	Then he is exposed along the previously stretched cord. If necessary, the tray is pushed into place with a rubber mallet.
	The correctness of the installation is checked by the cord and by the level.
	Trays and sand traps are set so that when the grill is installed, its plane is 3-5 mm below the surface level. Then the water will drain freely into the trays, the grilles will not be damaged by the wheels of the car.
	The trash box installed at the level is immediately fixed from the sides with concrete mixture. A so-called concrete heel is formed.
	Similarly, drainage trays are installed on the concrete base.
	They also line up both cord and level.
	After installation, the joints are covered with a special sealant, which will always be offered when buying trays.
	Experienced installers can apply sealant before installing the trays, applying it to the ends before installation.
	When installing plastic trays in concrete, they can deform. Therefore, it is better to install them with installed gratings, which, in order to avoid contamination, are best wrapped in plastic wrap.
	If the surface is flat and has no slopes, then it will be problematic to provide the required slope of the trays. The way out of this situation is to install a cascade of trays of the same width, but different depths.
	After installing all the elements of surface drainage, a concrete heel is formed, and then paving stones or paving slabs are installed in place, if they were dismantled. The surface of the paving stone should be 3-5 mm higher than the lattice of the drainage channel.
	It is imperative to make an expansion joint between the paving stones and the trays. Instead of the recommended rubber cords, you can use a double-rolled strip of roofing felt and sealant.
	After the concrete has set, after 2-3 days, backfilling of the excavated soil can be done.
	After compaction of the soil, the previously removed layer of sod is laid out on top. It needs to be laid 5-7 cm higher than the rest of the lawn, as over time it will tamp and settle.
	After flushing the entire surface drainage system and checking its performance, the trays, storm water inlets and sand traps are closed with gratings. It is possible to subject the elements to vertical loading only after 7-10 days.

When operating a surface drainage system, it is imperative to periodically clean the storm water inlets and sand traps. If necessary, you can remove the protective grilles and rinse the trays themselves with a strong jet of water. The water collected after rains or melting snow is the most suitable in order to be used in the future for watering a garden, vegetable garden or lawns. The groundwater collected by the deep drainage system may have a different chemical composition and may not always be used for the same purposes. Therefore, we once again remind and advise our readers to collect ground and atmospheric waters separately.

Video: Installation of a drainage system

Equipment for deep drainage of the site

We have already described in what cases deep drainage of the site is needed and found that it is almost always needed in order to forever forget about the problems of stagnant puddles, constant dirt or the death of various plants that cannot tolerate waterlogged soils. The complexity of deep drainage equipment is that if a landscape has already been formed on the site, trees and shrubs have been planted, there is a well-groomed lawn, then this procedure will have to be violated at least partially. Therefore, we recommend that you immediately organize a deep drainage system on the acquired new construction plots. As in all other cases, the project of such a drainage system must be ordered from specialists. Independent incorrect calculation and execution of the drainage system can lead to the fact that waterlogged places on the site will coexist with dry ones.

In areas with a pronounced relief, the drainage system can become a beautiful part of the landscape. For this, an open canal or a network of canals is organized through which water can freely flow out of the site. Stormwater from the roof can also be directed into the same channels. But readers will probably agree with the authors that having a large number of channels will bring more inconvenience than benefits from their contemplation. That is why closed-type deep drainage is most often equipped. Opponents of deep drainage may argue that such systems can lead to excessive drainage of fertile soil, adversely affecting plants. However, any fertile soils have a very good and useful property - they keep just as much water in their thickness as needed, and plants growing on soils take from it exactly as much water as is necessary for their root system.

The main guiding document for the organization of the drainage system is the graphic plan of the drainage system, where everything is indicated: the location of the collector and storage wells, the cross-section of drainage pipes and their depth, the cross-section of the drainage trench and other useful information. An example of a drainage system plan is shown in the figure.

Consider the main stages of creating deep drainage of the site.

Image	Process description
	First of all, the marking of the site is carried out, in which the position of the main elements of the drainage system is transferred from the plan to the terrain. Drainage pipe routes are designated with a stretched cord, which can be immediately pulled either horizontally or with a slope, which should be on each of the sections.
	A pit is dug under a storage drainage well of the required depth. The bottom of the pit is compacted and 10 cm of sand is poured and compacted onto it. The body of the well is tried on in place.
	In the direction from the well towards the beginning of the main collector pipe, a trench is dug, the bottom of which is immediately given the required slope specified in the project, but not less than 2 cm per 1 running meter of the pipe. The width of the trench in the bottom area is 40 m. The depth depends on the specific project.
	Drain trenches are dug from the collector trench, which will be connected to the collector pipe. The bottom of the trenches is immediately given the desired slope. The width of the trenches in the area of the bottom is 40 cm. The depth is according to the project. On clay and loamy soils, the average depth of the drains is 0.6-0.8 meters, and on sandy soils - 0.8-1.2 meters.
	The locations of the rotary and collector revision inspection wells are being prepared.
	After checking the depth and required slopes, 10 cm of sand is poured onto the bottom of all trenches, which is then wetted and tamped manually.
	Geotextiles are lined at the bottom of the trenches so that it goes over the side walls. Depending on the depth of the trench and the width of the geo-test bed, it is fixed either on the walls of the trench, or from above.
	Wells are installed and tried on in their places, the places where the couplings are inserted are marked. Then the wells are removed and the necessary couplings are cut into them to connect the drains, the bottoms are mounted.
	Wells are installed in their places, leveled. A layer of granite crushed stone or washed gravel of fraction 20-40 mm, 10 cm thick is poured into the trenches. The crushed stone layer is compacted, the necessary slopes are created.
	The necessary sections of drainage pipes are cut off, which are completed with plugs (if necessary). In most cases, drain-beams are made of pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, and collectors - 160 mm. The pipes are laid in trenches and connected to the well couplings and fittings. The depth of their occurrence and slopes are checked.
	A 20 cm layer of crushed stone or washed gravel is poured over the drains. After tamping, the crushed stone layer is covered with geotextiles, previously fixed to the walls of the trenches or from above.
	The drainage system is checked for functionality. For this, in various places where drains are laid, a large amount of water is poured into the trenches. Its absorption into the crushed stone layer and its flow through rotary, collector wells and entering the main catchment well is controlled.
	A layer of sand is poured over the geotextile, at least 20 cm.The sand is compacted, and on top of it the trenches are covered with fertile soil - 15-20 cm.
	Covers are put on the wells.

Even if the deep drainage of the site was done without a project, it is still necessary to draw up on which to indicate the location of the drains and the depth of their occurrence. This will help in the future, when carrying out any earthwork, to leave the system intact. If the relief permits, then catchment wells may not be arranged, and the water collected by drains is immediately sent to sewers, reservoirs or a collective storm sewer system. Any of these steps must be coordinated with neighbors and the village administration. But the well is still desirable at least to control the GWL and its seasonal fluctuations.

The collector well for collecting groundwater can be made overflow. When the water level in such wells becomes higher than the overflow pipe, then part of the water flows through the sewer pipe to another storage well. Such a system allows you to get clean water in the collection well, since all the dirt, sludge and debris settles in the collection overflow well.

When famous thinkers, called greats, whose sayings are constantly quoted and cited, put their thoughts on paper, they probably did not even suspect that they were writing about deep drainage. Here are some examples:

The collective image of the thinker, which is known to most people, as Kozma Prutkov said: "Behold at the root!" Great phrase for deep drainage! If the owner wants to grow garden trees on his site, then he simply must know where the groundwater lies, since their excess in the area of the root system has a bad effect on most plants.
A very famous thinker and “generator of wisdom” Oscar Wilde also said, without knowing it, about deep drainage: “The biggest vice in a person is superficiality. Everything that happens in our life has its own deep meaning. "
Stanislav Jerzy Lec said the following about the depth: "The swamp sometimes gives the impression of depth." This phrase fits perfectly with drainage, since without it, the site may well turn into a swamp.

You can cite many more quotes from great people and connect them with drainage, but let's not distract the readers of our portal from the main idea. For the safety of houses and the comfort of their inhabitants, creating ideal conditions for the growth of the necessary plants, arranging a cozy landscape, drainage is definitely needed.

Conclusion

It should be noted that residents of most regions of Russia are incredibly lucky if the issue of drainage is raised. An abundance of water, the more fresh, is much better than a lack of it. Residents of arid and desert regions, after reading such an article, would sigh and say: "We would have your problems!" Therefore, we simply have to consider ourselves happy that we live in a country that does not lack fresh water.

As we have already noted, it is always possible to "negotiate" with water using a drainage system. Modern market abundance offers just a gigantic assortment of various components, allowing you to create a system of any complexity. But in this matter, one must be very selective and careful, since the excessive complication of any system reduces its reliability. Therefore, we again and again recommend ordering a drainage project from specialists. And the independent embodiment of the drainage of the site is quite within the power of any good owner, and we hope that our article will help in something.

The drainage pipe is the main component of the drainage system, which in turn is a structure designed to collect and drain filtered rain, melt and groundwater. Rainwater and melt water cause an unwanted rise in groundwater, increasing the destructive effect on building foundations and landscape design elements.

The use of drainage pipes effectively protects the house from damage caused by

with high humidity, mold formation and permafrost, prevents flooding

cellars, the formation of puddles and spring ice on footpaths, prevents decay of garden plants due to excess moisture in summer cottages and garden plots.

Drainage pipes are corrugated perforated pipes with stiffening ribs and a large number of rational small holes located in the wave trough (corrugations). Stiffening ribs make it possible to evenly distribute soil pressure along the entire length of the pipe and to absorb additional loads that arise. These pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 0.7 to 6 meters. Stiffening ribs allow the pressure to be evenly distributed throughout the pipe and to absorb additional loads that arise. Drainage pipes are designed for laying to a depth of 6 meters. The presence of a large number of small holes of a special profile per one running meter of the product contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the area to be drained.

The presence of a large number of optimally located small holes of a special profile along the entire length of the pipe contributes to a faster collection, passage and removal of excess water from the site. Due to its low weight - (a coil with a length of 50 meters and an optimal diameter of 110mm. Weighs only 25 kg.) - installation and transportation are carried out without any special

Also one of the advantages of these pipes is their high corrosion resistance in aggressive groundwater. The service life of a drainage system made of polymers, if properly used, is 50 years or more.

Effective drainage does not allow groundwater to rise too high to the base of the house, protects the building from damage associated with high humidity, mold and frost. If it is required that the drainage works in the cold season, it should be laid at a depth exceeding the freezing depth of the soil. Specialists

believe that drainage is almost always necessary for central Russia.

Flexible corrugated drainage pipes made of polyethylene with a filter are used for

creation of reclamation systems (drainage), to protect buildings or a site from excessive

moisture, seasonal rise of groundwater. Drainage is a branched system

interconnected pipes located around or into the system flowing water down the ground.

Each pipe (experts call it a drain) has a network of holes (perforations) on its walls. They are at the same distance from each other. Drainage can be laid both before and after waterproofing the foundation and basement, but strictly before the general backfill of the outer side

foundation. The water collected with the help of pipes enters the collector (into the transport network), and then into the water intake well or into the water intake (river, stream, ravine). Sometimes water from the intake well is pumped out with a pump into the nearest ditch, ditch or sewer well. As a result of well-executed drainage, the level of groundwater decreases, fertility improves, it is easier to prepare the drained soil for sowing, and such land also accepts fertilizers better.

DRAINAGE- This is a system of underground channels, called drains, through which groundwater is removed from building structures and its level is lowered, as well as land is drained for growing agricultural products. Water from the drainage network is discharged outside the drained area into the water intake. Thus, a drain is an artificial watercourse in the soil for the collection and removal of groundwater (usually underground). Drainage systems are used in agriculture and forestry, in the organization of landscapes and the construction of construction projects.

Where are the drainage systems "RUVINIL" used? ?

Building

The foundation of any building structure, even at a shallow depth of 1.5-2 m, is exposed to groundwater. The composition of groundwater includes components with destructive properties. Even waterproofing does not protect in this situation. A high level of groundwater leads to the destruction of building foundations, flooding of basements, the appearance of fungal formations, etc. When building roads, sidewalks and open flat areas, it is also necessary to take into account the characteristics and degree of soil moisture.

Melioration and agriculture

A high level of groundwater leads to decay and freezing of fruit trees, the occurrence of fungal diseases of plants and waterlogging of the area. If it is necessary to drain swamps and waterlogged areas, it is effective to use corrugated polyethylene pipes, which provide a quick and cheap installation of a drainage system. The drainage system, mounted even on flat areas with the help of a drainage pipe, removes the backwater of groundwater and significantly reduces its level.

Classification of soil types

Crushed stone soil	Sandy soil	Clay soil	Mixed soil (loamy type)
Can be used drain pipe perforated without filter material.	Used by drain pipe with a filter made of non-woven fabric - geofabric; it is also necessary to make a bed of crushed stone around the pipe.

Can the site owner install the drainage system on his own?

Installation of drainage is not difficult with the availability of auxiliary tools (shovel, water level and rope). The pipes are very light - so a coil with a length of 50 meters and a diameter of 110 mm weighs only about 25 kg. Drainage works at the site are usually carried out in conjunction with activities for its development. To remove excess moisture from the soil, ensure the maximum flow of water to the drainage pipeline. The factor that determines the access of water to the pipes is the permeability of the soil. The increase in water permeability is achieved by sprinkling the drainage pipelines with filtration materials, such as crushed stone, pebbles, gravel, etc. The presence of a filter also helps to increase the volume of water collected by the system. To prevent the network from silting up, the water flow rate in the pipe must be at least 0.2 meters per second. This speed is ensured by the corresponding minimum slope of the pipe laying - 1 centimeter per 2 meters of the pipeline length. The main condition for effective drainage of the site is the creation of a guaranteed possibility of water drainage by gravity into a street ditch, a ravine, a decorative or natural reservoir or well (capacity), storm sewer, etc. When installing drainage systems, wells are used, both made of reinforced concrete and polymeric materials, specially designed for these purposes, which can significantly reduce the volume of earthworks and save significant money.

Methods for laying drainage systems

There are two main approaches to the construction of drainage systems:

Surface method - it is based on the planning of the territory with the inclusion of work on the creation of slopes from buildings, the construction of a drainage network with upland ditches for intercepting water, foundation pits and trenches;
The deep method is the drainage of groundwater directly from the zone of the location of structures using pipes for drainage and wells. On modern summer cottages and cottage plots, as a rule, a combined method of drainage is practiced, which does not violate the appearance of the territory and allows the use of the soil above the drainage systems for planting plants or arranging lawns.

Common mistakes when laying drainage pipes

The most common mistakes when constructing a drainage system are:

The use of pipes that are not intended for laying in a certain type of soil (for example: a pipe without a filter was laid in loamy soils),

The drainage water supply is laid without filtering sprinkles;

The minimum slopes were not observed when installing drainage;

The trenches are not covered with filter soil;

For various reasons, the timely drainage of excess water from the collection well is not performed.

To ensure the efficient operation of the drainage system, you must carefully choose:

Pipe diameter. The choice of the inner diameter of the drainage pipes depends on the area to be drained. The larger the inner diameter of the pipe, the higher its throughput. Drainage with geotextiles is usually used in sandy and mixed soils, and in coarse soils, a pipe without geotextiles can be used.

Type of pipes (with geotextile, without geotextile). Drainage with geotextiles is usually used in sandy and mixed soils, and in coarse soils, a pipe without geotextiles can be used

Depth of pipe laying;

Angle of inclination of pipes.

This requires:

Know the vertical layout of the site;

Determine the level of groundwater (this requires conducting hydrogeological surveys to a depth of 3-4 meters);

Set the type of soil (see table "Classification of soil types").

Such an integrated approach to solving the problem of drainage gives a positive result in determining measures to protect the fertile soil layer and structures.

A layer of sand is poured into specially dug trenches, then a layer of rubble (at least 20 cm high). The width of the trench along the bottom is equal to the outer diameter of the pipeline plus 40 cm. In cross-section, the trench can have a rectangular or trapezoidal outline. The bottom of the trench should not contain hard lumps, brick, stone, etc. (which can push through the bottom wall of the pipe laid on them).

A drainage pipe is laid on top of the crushed stone layer. The upper part is covered with backfill - a layer of rubble (at least 20 cm), and then again with a layer of sand. The outer part of the soil is covered with sod. Sequence of layers
essential because not rubble, but sand should be directed to the water. A cushion of sand and gravel at the bottom of the trench plays the role of a filter-shock absorber and allows you to maintain a slope for the gravity of water. Backfilling with gravel and sand (blanket) is a filtering layer and protection of the drainage pipe from mechanical damage. The purpose of the filter is to let water through and prevent small soil particles from entering the drainage pipe. Otherwise, the drain holes will quickly become clogged and the system will have to be cleaned.

In order to ensure normal operation, drainage pipes are laid to a frost-free depth (at least 80 cm).

According to building codes, the minimum slope of the drainage pipe towards a drainage well or natural watercourse is:

3 mm per 1 running meter in clay and loamy soils; (slope of at least 3 degrees)

5 mm per 1 running meter - in sandy ones.

Often, in practice, for a good drainage of water, a slope of 10 mm per 1 linear meter is made. m. In this case, the water flow rate should not be high (no more than 1 meter per second).

To service drainage systems, it is necessary to install manholes on straight sections at least 50 meters apart, as well as at the places of turns, intersections and changes in the slope angles of drainage pipes.

The drainage network is discharged into an open reservoir through an outlet pipe with a lattice valve, or into the storm sewer through an outlet pipe with a backpressure valve.

In the conditions of garden and summer cottages, it is advisable to lay drainage around the house (at a distance of 0.5-1 m) and drain water into the nearest ditch, any natural reservoir or well. Depending on the size of the site and the level of groundwater, it is possible to make additional drainage (for example, along the perimeter of the site).

In cross-section, the trench can have a rectangular or trapezoidal outline. The bottom of the trench should not contain solid lumps, brick, stone, construction waste, which can push through the bottom wall of the pipe laid on them.

To build up and join the drainage pipes with each other, couplings and tees are used.

The most common drainage system is laid in the form of a "herringbone", that is, a network of the same drainage collecting pipes is fed into a large drainage pipe-collector from both sides. Through the drainage pipe-collector, the groundwater flows by gravity into the storm sewer or roadside ditch. In the case where the water discharge points are above the level of the site, a drainage well is needed, from which water is removed using a pump.

The installation of the pipeline is carried out at an ambient temperature of up to minus 10 degrees.

Together with drainage works, it is advisable to carry out the installation of engineering networks, starting from the equipment of septic tanks (for household sewage) and a well (well) and ending with routing electrical cables to the points of connection of street lamps. Double-walled corrugated pipe can be used as cable routes.

Maintenance and repair of drainage systems

Maintenance and timely repair of drainage pipelines to a high degree contribute to their efficient operation for the entire estimated service life.

Drainages are operated by control and supervision services, whose tasks include:

Periodic inspection of drainage devices;

Elimination of minor faults;

Systematic monitoring of the position of the groundwater level in the drained area in order to establish the effectiveness of the drainage;

Drainage water quality control;

Carrying out scheduled preventive and current repairs, liquidation of accidents.

Clogged filter holes.

All products of CJSC "RUVINIL" are certified

Building a house is a responsible and very costly event. Naturally, any owner wants the erected building to serve as long as possible. And for this it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house from the destructive action of soil waters, that is, to build drainage. Let's consider how the drainage pipes are laid with our own hands, what materials are used for this, and what nuances must be taken into account when doing this work.

The construction of drainage seems to many to be an optional event. In fact, protection from soil water is very important. Properly constructed drainage helps to avoid dampness in the basement and prevent deterioration of the materials from which the foundation of the house is built.

In addition, a drainage device may be necessary in a personal plot or in a country house, if high-lying waters interfere with the growth of trees and shrubs. Consider the main points of the construction of drainage systems.

Before describing the construction technology, it is worth understanding what drainage is and in what cases its construction is necessary. So, drainage is a pipe system that is used to drain soil water from the foundation of a building, as well as to drain the site. In what cases is it necessary to build drainage?

If a building is being built that will have a basement.
If the site is initially swampy, or it has heavy and poorly water-permeable soils.
If you plan to make changes to the natural topography of the site, level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to begin?

First of all, it is necessary to find out how deep the soil water is. This can be done by examining the water level in nearby wells. The well, which is dug to a depth of 5-15 meters, is filled just to the level of groundwater. In addition, from the footprints on the concrete walls of the well, you can understand how high the water rises during the flood period.

Advice! The ideal solution for determining the level of soil water occurrence is a geodetic examination by a specialist.

Next, you need to decide on the type of drainage. The easiest way, of course, is to build an open drainage, that is, just dig trenches with a slope. However, such a solution will not decorate the site, so most owners choose the more time-consuming construction option.

We select materials for construction

Today, there are more convenient and affordable materials - corrugated pipes made of polymeric materials, which already have a ready-made perforation.

The main advantages of using plastic pipes

Corrugated pipes are characterized by increased strength, they can be laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
Plastic pipe connections are easy to make yourself using couplings
The pipes are easy to transport, unload and install, as they are quite lightweight.
To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent clogging of pipes with soil particles, additional filters are used - geotexil or material from coconut fiber.

Installation of drainage systems

Consider how the drainage is installed, and what are the nuances of pipe laying.

Planning

At the first stage, a scheme for laying drainage pipes should be drawn up. In performing this work, a preliminary geodetic examination of the site will be very helpful, as a result of which the types of soil and the level of location of groundwater will be clarified. Based on the results of the examination, the diameters of the pipes, as well as the depth of their laying, are selected.

Advice! Drawing up a drainage scheme and making calculations should preferably be entrusted to specialists.

Pipe laying

A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into the trenches dug to the required depth.
Geotextile is laid on top of the sand so that the edges of the canvas cover the sides of the ditch.
A layer of fine gravel is poured onto the geotextile.
Pipes are laid on top of the crushed stone with perforations down.
When laying pipes, the slope towards the collection well must be maintained. Slope size - not less than 3 degrees
In order to be able to monitor the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, it is necessary to plan the installation of inspection wells. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells should be installed at the places where the pipeline turns or when the angle of its inclination is changed.
The choice of the filter for the pipe is carried out depending on the type of soil. If it is light sandy loam or loam, then it is worth using pipes wrapped in geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more advantageous to use pipes wrapped in a coir cloth.
Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes, as a rule, the thickness of the upper filling is 40 cm.
Above, the layer of rubble is covered with geotextile, which was previously fixed on the sides of the trench.
From above, the trenches are covered with soil and covered with sod cut out in advance.

Mistakes not to be allowed

Incorrect selection of pipes. For example, in loamy soils, pipes cannot be used without a filter.
Unstable slope of pipes.
Wrong choice of location for the installation of the collection well or untimely removal of water from it.

So, the drainage system is a necessary element to protect the house and the site from excess soil moisture. When installing drainage, it is extremely important to correctly develop its scheme and carry out laying in strict accordance with the technology. Errors made during installation will lead to the fact that the water from the foundation will not be drained in full, that is, the efficiency of the system will be reduced.

And now for a shorter but succinct guide to the proper laying of drainage pipes:

Drainage pipes are laid in trenches 0.7-1.6 m deep, expanding upward at an angle of 10-20 °; the width of their bottom is 30-40 cm. If it is known that water will flow to the drainage pipe only from above and from the sides, the pipe wrapped in geotextile can be placed immediately at the bottom of the trench. Although, to level the surface and create the desired slope, a sand cushion is often made. If the drainage pipe collects water from all sides, a return filter must be poured under it, consisting of a layer of sand (5-10 cm) and a layer of rubble (5 cm). Sometimes the return filter is built only from sand. Its task is to trap small dusty and clay particles that can clog the drain pipe. There is less water flowing from the bottom than from the side and top, so the return filter should not be too thick. On it (or immediately to the bottom, as in the first case), a drainage pipe is laid, surrounded by a volume filter - some kind of protective filtering material: geotextile of a certain density or coconut fiber.

Filters for drainage pipes are selected depending on the type of soil. In "harsh" conditions, when pipes are buried in clay soils, a coir filter works best. Several foreign companies, for example Wavin, Uponor, supply pipes already wrapped in coconut filter material. Their cost is about two to three times higher than the cost of similar drainage pipes without filters. For light loam and sandy loam (lighter soils, with a lower content of clay particles), bulk geotextiles are used. This is a fairly thick (2-4 mm) non-woven or needle-punched material weighing 250-450 g / m2. Its filtering capacity is lower than that of coconut fiber. On sandy soils, you can use fine filters, fiberglass and other similar materials weighing 150-250 g / m2.

The drainage pipe wrapped in a filter is covered with rubble approximately 1 / 3-1 / 4 of the depth of the trench. Now, for filling, they take crushed stone of the middle fraction (about 20-40 mm), while theoretically it is more intelligent to do this: the first layer is crushed stone of a large fraction (40-70 mm), the second layer is the middle fraction, the third is fine (less than 20 mm). Typically, the thickness of the upper backfill is about 40 cm.The minimum layer capable of providing an optimal mode of water penetration into the drainage pipe is 20 cm.A layer of geotextile is laid on top of the crushed stone to prevent mixing of crushed stone and bulk materials located above - sand (layer 5-10 cm thick) and fertile soil (15-20 cm). To make the system work more reliably, the volumetric crushed stone filter is sometimes also placed in a protective casing made of geotextile, the cost of which is about 30 rubles. for 1 m2. These costs are often justified when compared to the cost of maintaining the system. Sometimes the pipe itself is not wrapped in geotextile in this case, however, such a system will clog up faster and the likelihood of the formation of silt plugs in it is higher.

The depth of the trenches and, accordingly, the occurrence of drainage pipes depends on the type of soil, the level of groundwater and what will grow in the drained area. For mineral soils, the optimal depth of trenches is from 60-80 to 120-150 cm. Please note that a groundwater level of 60-80 cm is quite acceptable for lawns and flower beds, about 90 cm - for forest trees, 120-150 cm - for fruit trees trees. When draining, the groundwater will be established at a level of approximately 0.7-0.9 of the depth of the drainage pipes. By the way, according to experts, for the free development of an apple tree, this depth should be 2-2.5 m, cherries and plums - 1.5-2 m, berry bushes (currants, gooseberries, raspberries) - 1-1.5 m. in peat soils, all trenches should be slightly deeper - 100-160 cm, since peat continuously "sits down" throughout its "life". This is due to three reasons: the surface settles over the drainage pipe; a layer settles under the drainage pipe; peat decomposes into substances that become water-soluble and washed out.

The depth of the drainage pipes is determined taking into account one more factor - the location of the aquiclude. This is the name of the layer of impermeable rocks that limit the aquifer. If the aquiclude is located close to the surface of the earth (for example, at a depth of 70 cm), then the pipe is laid to a depth of no more than this distance. Water will come to it only from the side and from above. To the drainage pipe, which lies inside the aquifer, water flows from all sides - of course, if there are perforations around the entire circumference of the pipe. An example of impervious horizons is heavy loamy and clayey soils with a low filtration coefficient: water passes through them very poorly or does not pass at all. An example of aquifers is sandy and sandy loam.

The minimum slope of the drainage pipes required for normal water flow is 0.003, that is, 3 mm per 1 m of length. In practice, however, it is increased to 0.005. If the natural slope of the soil is significant, then it can reach 0.01-0.02. However, it is not recommended to make a large slope - the water should leave smoothly and evenly. Drainage should always be carried out taking into account the relief, so as not to argue with nature.

The spacing of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil. On heavy soils, clay and loamy, pipes are placed more often: at a distance of 4-5 to 12-15 m from each other. On light soils, sandy loam and sand, - less often, after 20-30 m. On average, it is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long drains an area of 10-20 m2. To drain sports and playgrounds, the gap between the pipes is halved. Do not plant trees closer than 2 m to the right and left of the drain pipe. Bushes (for example, lilacs) are recommended to be planted, maintaining a distance of 1 m.