The procedure for warming a frame bath. We insulate the walls of a frame bath: the right "pie". Selection and fixing of an insulating layer

Any frame structure requires insulation, especially for buildings such as a bath. A steam room in the traditional Russian style should keep the air temperature within 60–90 ° C for a long time. For this to be possible, it must be produced.

The main advantages of thermal insulation

The insulated frame bath allows you to significantly save on heating it. Therefore, the funds spent on insulation and vapor barrier pay off over time. A heat-insulated bath warms up faster to the required temperature and cools down more slowly, it “holds” steam better.

A gentle temperature regime can significantly increase the service life of the heater. Wooden structures are less susceptible to decay. There is no doubt about the advisability of insulation, it remains to choose the right material and carry out work using the appropriate technology. To do this, you can hire specialists or do everything yourself.

The choice of insulation material

The result depends on the correct choice of heat-shielding material. Modern industry offers a wide range of insulation options for frame buildings. It doesn't matter how to insulate frame walls - the choice depends on the cost and availability of materials in a particular area.

The main thing is that the material is light, since the frame walls are not designed for heavy loads. Another heater for a bath should have not only good thermal insulation properties, but also resistance to fire, minimal toxicity.

A light frame bath can be insulated in various ways. Of the most affordable options, the following insulation methods can be distinguished:

reed slabs;
a mixture of gypsum and sawdust;
plates made of synthetic materials.

Reed slabs

Reed slabs are lightweight non-combustible material with high thermal insulation characteristics. Depending on the manufacturer, the thickness of the reed blocks can reach 15 cm. Since this is a natural material, it is recommended to soak the slabs with a solution of ferrous sulfate from insects before installation.

Gypsum and sawdust

A mixture of sawdust and gypsum in a ratio of 10: 1 is the most budget-friendly option for frame baths and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Such a mixture can also be compiled with the addition of cement in a similar proportion. Cement and gypsum act as a binder, while carefully dried sawdust and the air between them form a layer with low thermal conductivity.

Plates based on polymers (polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, etc.) are easy to use and low cost, and therefore are most popular. If the question is, the better and easier it is to insulate the bath, then it is worth choosing foam.

Floor

The stage of warming the floor of a frame bath is incredibly important. First you need to insulate the underground space - you can do it easily with your own hands. It is enough to cover it with expanded clay or furnace slag.

Parts of the bath not in contact with water

In the rooms of the bathhouse that are not intended for washing (dressing room, bathroom, steam room, rest room, etc.), it is easiest to arrange continuous floors that perfectly retain heat and are easy to manufacture. To do this, logs and a rough floor are laid on the floor, the boards of which are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic.

After that, a layer of insulation (mineral or basalt wool, polystyrene) is placed on the floor, which is tightened with a film for waterproofing. A grooved board or tile is laid as a finishing floor.

Waterproofing

In a washing room, the flooring device is more difficult, since it must be carefully insulated from moisture. Therefore, a double layer of waterproofing material must be laid on the insulation layer. After that, it is required to make a concrete screed with a thickness of at least 5 cm, otherwise it will break under its own weight. For strength, the screed is reinforced with a mesh. Tiles can be used as a finishing layer.

Walls

The technology of wall insulation in a frame bath is quite simple. To do this, you need to attach a crate made of wooden or metal guides. Sheets of polystyrene or any other insulation are put into the crate. The thermal insulation material must be covered with a layer of waterproofing, which is then sewn up with clapboard, siding or other material.

There must be no damage or holes in the waterproofing layer. The sheets are joined with an overlap, the joints must be stitched with thin strips. If polyethylene is used as waterproofing, then it can be welded.

During installation, between the insulation and the cladding, it is necessary to provide for a narrow ventilation space with a thickness of 1.5-3 cm.

Roof and other elements

At the end of the wall insulation, the stage of building the roof of the bath begins. Installation of the ceiling, its subsequent heat and vapor insulation will prevent heat loss through the roof. To do this, you need to install four layers of roof insulation:

external cladding;
vapor barrier material;
thermal insulation material;
flooring from boards.

Since warm air rises due to convection, the thickness of the thermal insulation layer of the ceiling must be thicker than for the walls. It should reach 10-15 cm.

The final stage

Insulation of the frame bath from the outside allows you to further reduce heat loss. A layer of insulating material on the facade of the building will protect the frame walls of the bath from precipitation.

Styrofoam sheets can also be used for simplicity of outdoor insulation. They just stick to the wall. Any cladding can be used as a finish. The main thing is to choose a non-combustible type of foam.

Thermal insulation of windows and doors in a frame bath is not provided. It is enough that the window and door frames are well fitted to the bindings, cracks and joints, especially along the perimeter of the chimney, must be carefully sealed. For windows, it is better to use double or triple glazing with energy-saving glass.

You can additionally insulate doors and windows, but even with the above insulation option, the frame bath will not yield to a log frame in terms of its operational properties. The frame structure with well-executed heat and vapor insulation will perfectly retain heat.

Frame buildings require thermal protection, especially when it comes to a bath with a steam room, since this room must have a high temperature for a long time. Careful DIY thermal insulation will minimize heat loss.

Materials for thermal protection of frame baths

When choosing a heater for a frame bath, it is necessary to take into account not only the heat-insulating characteristics of a particular material, but also its ability to withstand significant temperatures at a constant high level of humidity.

In addition, a heater for a sauna building, when the room is heated, should not emit toxic compounds that negatively affect the health of people taking the procedures.

In order to improve the thermal insulation parameters, the insulation of a frame bath, such as in the photo, can be done using the following materials:

Mineral wool... Its slabs consist of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or waste from metallurgical enterprises. In the process of weaving a large number of these fibers, air is retained between them, due to which the products have excellent thermal insulation qualities. As a result of the peculiarities of the production of mineral wool, the material can withstand very intense heating, while its operational characteristics do not change. In conditions of high humidity, such plates retain heat-saving properties and do not collapse.
Reed slabs... They belong to natural and environmentally friendly heat insulators. Their thickness is 15 centimeters and this parameter is very convenient when building frame structures.
Insulation from sawdust-gypsum mixture... To make it, you need to mix 10 parts of dried fine sawdust with 1 part of cement (gypsum). Thermal insulation of a frame bath from the inside using this mixture has a significant advantage - an affordable cost and excellent thermal insulation.
Foamed synthetic products- polyurethane foam, polystyrene, etc. They have a number of advantages, among which are low price, resistance to moisture, ease of installation, low weight, low thermal conductivity. But these synthetic insulation materials cannot be mounted on elements of a sauna building, where exposure to high temperatures is possible, therefore they insulate walls that are far from the stove. They are placed in the dressing room, rest rooms or washroom.

Arrangement of vapor barrier

Before starting work, you must definitely know how to properly insulate a frame bath in order to perform it efficiently. Regardless of which of the materials was chosen as a heater, when laying it in the cells of the frame, it is necessary to provide reliable vapor barrier.

If you do not cut off the insulation from the atmosphere of the bath with its high humidity, it will absorb water during the cooling process, which will certainly lead to the most undesirable consequences:

a wet heat insulator will significantly increase its own thermal conductivity and heat will quickly move from the room into the environment;
the porous structure will not allow the material to dry quickly, which means that mold may appear and the frame of the building will begin to rot.

Thus, when a frame bath is made, the walls are insulated using high-quality vapor barrier.

aluminum foil - not only will protect the insulation from the influence of moisture, but will also reflect thermal energy;
polyethylene film;
glassine is environmentally friendly and inexpensive.

It is undesirable to use roofing material, as in the process of heating it begins to smell unpleasant. When installing the vapor barrier, it must not be allowed that even the smallest gaps remain between the pieces of material. The tightness of the joints is ensured with the help of metallized adhesive tape, or by overlapping adjacent canvases.

Insulation of the walls of the frame building

They begin to equip the thermal protection of a frame bath building simultaneously with the construction of its walls. The fact is that the use of this technology assumes that the heat insulator is also a structural material. When a bath is built from insulation with your own hands, its layers are laid out between the supporting elements of the frame. A vapor barrier is mounted on top of it.

At the end of the insulation work, a semblance of a cake is obtained, in the center of which there is a heat-insulating material, sheathed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with waterproofing.

The outer layer of the cake will be represented by decorative trim inside the bath rooms, and outside - by the facade cladding. Both of these layers will not only become additional thermal protection, but will also serve as a structural element, which will increase the strength of the entire building.

Among professionals, the best option is considered to be the laying of two layers of heat-insulating material in the bath frame. Moreover, it is desirable to make the first of them from tiled insulation, and the second from roll insulation. As a result, such a thickness of the walls of the frame bath is able to reliably protect the premises from heat loss.

In the process of laying insulation, special attention should be paid to the fact that most materials have different sides - external and internal. To distinguish between them, pay attention to the recommendations of the product manufacturers.

Thermal insulation of the wall next to the stove

For the wall frame and insulation located close to the sauna stove, it is necessary to create additional protection to prevent them from being affected by high temperatures. Some experts consider the use of asbestos sheets and slabs to be the best choice in solving this problem.

But since there is an opinion about the dangers of asbestos to human health, it is advisable to choose more modern options, including needle-punched mats, isolon, basalt fabrics and others. All of these materials can withstand temperatures of several hundred degrees and therefore are capable of providing absolute fire safety.

Refractory protection is mounted in one of two ways:

decorative trim on top;
directly onto the vapor barrier.

It is pointless to equip a vapor barrier using a plastic film, since it will melt near the sauna stove. The best solution would be to use aluminum foil, which is glued with heat-resistant foil tape to ensure tightness.

Heat protection of the ceiling and floor

In a frame sauna building, heat loss occurs not only due to the walls, since a considerable amount of thermal energy leaves the room through the ceiling and floor covering. Accordingly, the procedure for insulating a frame bath provides for their thermal insulation.

Insulation is laid at the stage of floor installation, following a certain procedure:

pre-prepared and tamped soil is poured with a concrete screed;
create a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene film or roofing material;
lay plates of heat-insulating material;
equip external waterproofing;
pour another layer of concrete base.

After final hardening, in order to increase the service life of the rough concrete surface, it must be treated with a special waterproofing compound. Thanks to the use of this agent, moisture will not be able to penetrate even the smallest cracks in the concrete and destroy it and the thermal insulation.

When insulating the ceiling, they use the method that is used when laying a heat insulator into the walls of a frame bath building:

a vapor barrier is fixed on the ceiling;
insulating material is laid;
the second layer of vapor barrier is attached;
make the finishing plating.

There is one difference in comparison with the order of wall insulation, when no gap is left between the vapor barrier and the cladding - there must be free space when insulating the ceiling. Due to the presence of a gap, the decorative finishing of the ceiling will dry faster, because during the operation of the bath, it is constantly exposed to hot vapors.

Thermal insulation of a bath with foam

If a decision is made to make thermal insulation using this material, then the room needs to be equipped with high-quality ventilation, since it does not allow steam and air to pass through. The fact is that when a foam bath is being built with their own hands, they cannot insulate the steam room due to the negative impact of high temperatures on it. In addition, cheap material may contain toxic compounds.

Insulation of a frame bath: how to insulate from the inside with your own hands, what kind of insulation to choose for the walls, the thickness of the foam, how to do it correctly, photos and videos

How to insulate a frame bath? Materials and step-by-step technology of thermal insulation works

I am glad to welcome you, dear readers!

The owners of frame buildings, including baths, should be well aware that we must take the insulation of their brainchild seriously and think over everything at the initial stage of construction. The main task of any "frame" is to preserve heat and moisture inside the room.

This is especially true for the baths, since the humidity is high here. Wet, damp walls, especially if they have mineral wool insulation, will not bring anything good for the steam room. You will not achieve warmth in winter. So, I propose to consider the topic: how to insulate a frame bath with your own hands and not "pierce" on the little things ...

Basic rules for warming a frame bath

Thermal insulation of a bath of this type should take place according to its own rules. For example, it is advisable to insulate a brick steam room only from the inside. A bath from a bar, it is reasonable to simply dig in and that's enough. In the baths from SIP panels, the walls are already finished and well insulated. But, if the construction is carried out with your own hands and a wooden frame is first assembled, then the frame bath should be insulated in a comprehensive manner.

What does it mean? As already mentioned, the main task of the frame is to keep heat and water vapor inside the room and prevent them from penetrating inside the wall and going outside. This means that it is necessary not only to make good thermal insulation of the walls, ceiling and floor, but also to provide a reliable steam and water barrier for all elements of the bath.

All these three tasks: vapor barrier, thermal insulation and waterproofing, are extremely relevant for a frame bath. Imagine this moment: the vapor barrier of the walls or ceiling (which is even worse) is poorly done or is completely absent. At the same time, the insulation is done with mineral insulation (mineral wool).

Over time, water vapor will saturate this insulation, especially on the ceiling, and it will simply cease to perform its functions. Water literally drips from above. The walls and ceiling will simply be open to the cold. And high humidity will negatively affect the wooden frame. Mold, mildew and rot will be provided.

What conclusion do we draw? It is imperative to do a vapor barrier. For these purposes, it is best to use Penopremium, Penotherm or their analogue. This foil-lined insulation on a polypropylene foam backing does an excellent job with the function of a steam and thermal barrier. Creates a good thermos effect inside the steam room and does not allow water vapor to pass through. When buying, you should choose a thicker foil - 50-100 microns, and the thickness of the substrate - 4-6 mm.

During installation, the foil is aimed from the side of the steam room on the walls and ceiling, and better - on small bars 15-20mm thick. furniture stapler, 8-10 cm overlap. All joints must be glued with special foil tape. As far as possible, it is necessary to achieve the smallest loss of heat and moisture, that is, to exclude the smallest gaps in the vapor barrier layer.

Do not forget about the protection of the wooden frame. It is quite possible that accidental moisture will appear inside the walls: contrasting temperature, poorly made vapor barrier, etc. To exclude decay and mold of wood, it should be treated with protective hydrophobic impregnations. It is not for nothing that you can see the pinkish or greenish wooden frame of such buildings. This is precisely the result of impregnation with protective antiseptics. Such a protective procedure should be carried out without fail, so that subsequently "you do not warm your head" about replacing rotten parts of the frame.

The waterproofing layer is also important for the frame bath. If we do vapor barrier from the side of the steam room and do not allow steam to penetrate the walls and ceiling, then waterproofing plays a slightly different role. It is mounted on the frame from the outside and does not allow atmospheric moisture to penetrate from the outside. Using special diffusion films such as Yutafol or its analog, you can achieve an interesting and desired effect.

Moisture that has accidentally got into the insulation can evaporate over time without problems and escape through this diffusion membrane. And precipitation or humidity will no longer be able to pass from the street to the inside of the walls. Such waterproofing is very convenient and practical. And in general, if you are wondering: how to insulate a bath (frame), then it is necessary to take it as a rule that films and membranes of this type are just as important and necessary attribute in frame construction as the insulation itself. But now a little about something else ...

What should be the heater for the bath

By itself, a frame bath is a lightweight construction compared to the same log or brick buildings. All its elements - ceilings, walls, floors, are insulated, as a rule, with light and practical insulation. Lightness is one of the criteria that insulation for a frame bath must meet.

The second important criterion is moisture resistance. Although, in any case, vapor barrier and waterproofing are required. It will be better if the insulation has moisture-repellent properties.

Insulation for a bath must be fireproof and withstand high temperatures without emitting toxic substances. When organizing a vapor barrier, I did not accidentally talk about materials based on expanded polypropylene, since expanded polyethylene, for example Izolon, is not suitable for high temperatures.

So, here are some materials that can be successfully applied to insulate a frame bath:

→ Basalt-based mineral wool, which are specially made for baths and saunas. It is best if they already have a foil layer, for example, like Rockwool. It is much more convenient to work with plates than with roll materials. The main thing here is that the frame is made slightly smaller than the standard size of mineral wool slabs or mats (not spoken).
→ Polymer insulation - penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam). This also includes the well-known foam. But I do not recommend using it. Since polystyrene is not entirely fireproof and rodents "grind" it for a sweet soul. I have nothing against styrofoam, but not in a bath. Insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam is possible - an analogue of conventional polyurethane foam.
→ Reed mats - natural light insulation made from reed reeds. It is also lightweight and excellent at keeping warm. To protect against moisture and insects, it is recommended to impregnate such plates with a solution of copper or iron sulfate before use.
→ Ecowool can be used. About this material, few people know, although it has been known for a long time. Who is interested in this material - there is detailed information in this article.
→ Wood sawdust or shavings can also be used as insulation. But my opinion is no longer relevant today.

Insulation of the main elements of the frame bath

What can be attributed to the main elements of the bath? These are the ceiling, walls, foundation and, as a consequence of the foundation, floors. For example, insulating the ceiling of a bathhouse is a very important point. If it is enough to insulate the walls to a thickness of 10-15 centimeters, then the ceiling should already have a large insulation thickness. Here, the thickness of 15-20 cm is already relevant. In this case, we are talking about mineral insulation, since penoplex can be used with parameters that are half that of mineral wool (thickness).

Why is the ceiling given so much attention? Here are the simple laws of physics. All the heat tends upward, in this case, toward the ceiling. And here it is important not to release the heat into the ceiling and into the open spaces of the street, but to keep it in the steam room. Therefore, the layer of thermal insulation on the ceiling is made slightly larger than in the walls.

Steam room floors also play a huge role. If they are cold, there is no need to talk about any comfort. So, warming the bath floor is also an important task. Frame baths are often placed on a screw foundation. It is comfortable and practical. But in terms of its insulation, many may have some questions. I will not describe it here, since there is a corresponding article. Simply, the thought is this: if the foundation freezes, it means that the floors will be very cold.

To avoid this unpleasant incident, the floors (as well as the foundation) should be given special attention. From below, even a non-edged board can be nailed onto the load-bearing floor beams, since it is needed as a base for insulation. Penoplex is laid on top, all seams are foamed with polyurethane foam.

Wooden beams, boards, bars must be impregnated with protective, water-repellent, hydrophobic impregnations. Non-leaking floors are laid on the penoplex, or rather on the bearing beams. This can be done in the steam room, dressing room or in the relaxation room. In the sink, it is best to make a concrete screed with a slope under the drain, poured onto foam sheets. And on top, make wooden leaking floors.

I will end on this. I hope, after this article, such a question, how to insulate a frame-type bath, will no longer be relevant for you. Or maybe, on the contrary, a lot of new questions have arisen, which were not at all in my head before. I know for myself: theory is one thing, but practice is quite another. When you start building something, there are always a lot of problems that have to be solved along the way. If you have any questions or doubts - ask, I will answer as far as possible. Good luck with insulating the frame bath!

How to insulate a frame bath with your own hands?

Do-it-yourself rules for insulating a frame bath. We choose the right material, we insulate the walls, ceilings and foundations. We install steam and waterproofing.

Thermal insulation of the bath, and even more so the frame must be done correctly. The material for insulating the frame structure must be chosen environmentally friendly and non-combustible, while with high heat-saving properties. How to insulate a frame bath correctly and choose the optimal material, you can find out by reading the article to the end.

A frame bath without additional wall insulation will be cold and it will be impossible to use it.

Types of heaters for a bath

If you choose the wrong insulation or put it in an insufficient layer, then the functionality of the steam room will be lost. Materials for warming a frame bath are natural and artificial. The bathhouse and synthetic insulation are incompatible, of course, the design will be cheap, but some may emit harmful vapors when heated. Natural include:

According to their shape, types are chosen for a frame bath: tiled or matte. A roll is also fine, but it will be more difficult to fit it into a frame cake. Any beginner can cut and lay insulation in the form of slabs or mats, it is enough to understand the technology and finish reading this article.

Wood fiber insulation

The basis of the material is wood fibers, which are bonded with various synthetic fibers. It is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin when styled. The material is made by recycling sawn timber. It is a misconception that such a heater is made from waste paper. Due to the ability to absorb moisture and also quickly give it away, the frame bath will breathe like a full-fledged wooden one. One of the brightest representatives of wood fiber insulation is ecowool, the price of which is from 120 rubles. / kg.

The main disadvantage is precisely the ability to absorb moisture. If the hood in the bath is performed with errors, then the humidity can linger for a long time in the structure of the walls and they will begin to rot.

Basalt insulation

Basalt wool is made from mineral fibers by binding them with an adhesive. The main advantages are:

High heat-saving properties.
Does not burn, can withstand temperatures up to 900 ° C.
It does not lose its quality characteristics over the years, therefore the service life is more than 20 years.
Increases sound insulation.
Does not absorb moisture and does not retain it in the frame structure.

The main disadvantage of the material was discovered at the end of 2014. Previously, it was considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. It turned out that the adhesive used for gluing basalt fibers can emit insignificant vapors of formaldehyde. Whether or not the reaction intensifies during heating of the steam room, no studies have been carried out.

Linen fiber insulation

Linen mats began to be used not so long ago. The material is made from compressed flax fibers. There are no additives in the composition, for example, formalin. the material is completely environmentally friendly and is capable of absorbing - releasing moisture. And due to the dense pressing, the boards have a high ability to save heat.

The main disadvantage of the slabs is the insufficient test of time and rodents. Mice love to build nests in flax fiber and gnaw holes in the walls. Over time, the bath will lose its thermal insulation properties.

Fiberglass insulation

Glass wool is made from glass fibers bonded with synthetic glue. It is difficult to work with the material with your own hands, since when the fibers get into the air, they settle on the skin and enter the respiratory tract. They can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Glass wool has no less advantages:

Does not burn.
The price is low.
Easy to assemble.
Possesses high thermal insulation.
Creates a slight soundproofing.

If the choice fell on glass wool, then all work on the insulation of the frame bath must be performed in protective clothing and a respirator.

Expanded polystyrene for insulation

Expanded polystyrene is made by foaming polystyrene. Moreover, the more and less air bubbles in the material, the higher its heat-insulating properties. One of the brightest representatives of polystyrene. It is possible to insulate the walls of a frame bath with polystyrene foam, but it is not recommended. Moreover, insulate the ceiling and the space around the chimneys. Expanded polystyrene has a high fire hazard. It ignites from any spark. If the structure is insulated with foam, then the cake must be protected. The material has a number of advantages:

Low price. (The cheapest option for insulation).
Waterproof.

Any of the listed materials is used to insulate a frame bath. The main thing is to complete the installation, observing all the rules.

Do-it-yourself installation of insulation

There are two ways to insulate a frame bath:

Classic pie. When the insulation is laid between the outer boards and the interior trim.
Additional. Usually done from the facade.

Classic insulation

Classic insulation consists of a pie: vapor barrier, insulation, vapor barrier, interior decoration.

Steam - waterproofing is performed from the inside of the bath after boards or panels of sawdust are fixed on the outside. The vapor barrier is laid directly on them and the frame beam. It is necessary to mount the material with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The joints are glued with tape. You can attach the material directly to the tree with a construction stapler.

The insulation is placed in the formed cells. The standard thickness of the insulation is 50 mm and 100 mm. If the bath will be used all year round, then take 100 mm and fit in two layers. This layer will be enough to keep the steam room warm in winter temperatures down to -35 ° C. For southern regions, one layer of 100 mm is sufficient.

The bathhouse, used only in summer seasons, does not require thorough insulation, so it is enough to lay 1–2 layers of 50 mm.

When installing, the joints should be as small as possible, and in places where the insulation does not fit, you need to protect it with polyurethane foam. The second layer of slabs is laid on the first so that the joints of the upper one do not coincide with the lower ones. You can fix the insulation with special fungus screws. They have a wide head that will securely attach the material to the wall. If foam is chosen as insulation, then it can be glued to the wall with ordinary tile glue.

The next layer is again the vapor barrier. This layer is missed by many, but it is necessary when using a material that absorbs water, such as ecowool.

Foil-clad membrane material is used as waterproofing. It is laid with foil to the steam room, the joints are sealed with foil tape. Waterproofing with such a material will not only play a protective function against moisture, but will also help keep heat in the steam room, reflecting it.

External insulation of the frame structure

External insulation is optional. For a frame bath, it is better to make a ventilated facade, so condensation will not accumulate under the facade cladding and the walls will last longer. Usually, the facade of the bath is insulated with polystyrene foam.

Initially, a crate is made of metal profiles or 40x40 mm timber on the walls. Before installation, the timber is covered with an antiseptic or liquid glass, which penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from various harmful effects.

The step of the lathing depends on the width of the insulation sheet. If the foam is 60 cm wide, then the step must correspond to it. You can fix the foam to the walls with special screws or glue. The material is lightweight and can be glued alone.

If the insulation of the facade is additional, then it is not necessary to take too thick insulation. It is not necessary to mount the vapor barrier on the foam, it will repel water, and air does not penetrate through the material. A counter-lathing is attached to the lathing and finishing is mounted, for example siding or timber imitation panels.

Before insulation, the outer skin of the frame and the structure itself are covered with antiseptics. If this is not done, then any ingress of moisture will be critical for the bath.

The design of the insulation resembles a multi-layer cake, which should not be excluded from the layers-stages. It is not difficult to insulate a frame bath with your own hands, but it is laborious. Not everyone is able to do the finishing of the entire structure with their own hands, so you can contact the specialists. On average, insulation of a frame bath in Russia costs from 200 rubles / m². In terms of the size of the walls, the service is not cheap. It's cheaper to do everything yourself, but you can work gradually.

How to insulate a frame bath with your own hands

We are learning how to insulate a frame bath with our own hands using various materials. What features should be taken into account when working.

Frame construction technology came to Russia from the west. The conceptual difference in the approach to the construction of buildings for a long time did not allow the technology to gain a strong position, and was considered as a pre-fabricated temporary housing and auxiliary buildings.

Nevertheless, over time, more and more attention began to be paid to the frame construction technique. Previously built houses have shown reliability and durability. The speed of construction, low demands on quality due to low weight, good heat saving, the possibility of construction made this method of construction popular and widely known. Data contributes to the popularity of these houses and baths.

A bathhouse built using frame technology is not inferior in quality to more expensive building options (for comparison, it is devoted to a comparison of frame and timber baths, as well as about), despite the fact that in addition to saving on the construction of the bath itself, a solid gain is obtained. In practice, it has been found that the roof of the bathhouse causes the greatest calculations, one must ensure that it does not turn out to be excessively heavy. Lightweight walls are of little use for heavy loads and the weight of the roof must match the wall's capacity.

Arrangement of the walls of the frame bath

The wall of the frame bath is a wooden frame, the voids of which are filled with insulation, lined with sheet materials or clapboard. This design perfectly stores heat, does not require heating costs, is easily repaired, and local and spot repairs are allowed. It is important not to confuse frame and, these are two different construction technologies.

The advantages also include the almost absolute absence of shrinkage, which makes it possible to carry out the final finishing immediately during construction. Requirements for the composition of the walls are moisture resistance and the absence of release of toxic substances when heated.

Advice! You should also carefully monitor fire safety, since the traditional source of heat in a bath is a stove, an element that is risky in itself. Therefore, it is advisable to use non-flammable and non-toxic materials.

Frame bath wall cake

The multi-layer construction of walls with insulation, vapor barrier or, as an option, a multifunctional membrane, received the name "pie" among experts. The device of such a cake is the main reason for the abundance of advantages and useful properties of frame walls.

The composition of the cake usually includes:

Beam 150 to 50. Edged board is often used.
Mineral insulation located in the spaces between the wooden parts. The most preferred option is mineral wool slabs.
Oriented strand board (OSB), the thickness must be at least 15 mm.
Horizontal lathing.
Layer for horizontal lathing.
Waterproofing layer (or multifunctional membrane).
Vertical lathing.
Exterior decoration.
Steam release material.
Interior decoration. Most often it is a lining.

Photo

Option 1

Option 2 (easier)

Option 3 (the easiest one)

Such a set allows you to keep warm, does not get wet, is weatherproof from the outside and from the absorption of water vapor from the inside. The effectiveness of the cake has been tested many times and there is no doubt about its reliability.

Warming procedure

The process of warming begins after the construction of a frame made of wood, then a cake of the wall of the frame bath is created. The first step is to fill the voids between the frame boards with insulation. The material is cut exactly to size and fits into the gaps of the swivel.

Important! It is necessary to carefully adjust the pieces of insulation. All cracks and voids must be additionally filled with polyurethane foam in order to avoid the formation of cold bridges.

Then a vapor barrier layer is attached from the inside. foil inside... This arrangement contributes to the rapid heating of the inner lining, due to which condensation does not form and the wall does not get wet from the inside. The inner lining is installed on a lathing attached to the frame bars, which provides a gap between the inner lining and the foil.

On the outside, a layer of membrane or wind protection is laid. A crate is installed on top of it, on which the outer skin is mounted. Between the outer sheathing and the insulation, due to the crate, it is obtained air gap, contributing to the drying of condensate.

Protection of thermal insulation from moisture

As already mentioned, moisture protection is a vapor barrier layer reinforced from the inside of the wall. As an insulator, they use ordinary aluminum foil, or foil on kraft paper, which is somewhat easier to install. The strips of the vapor barrier (or membrane) are supposed to be interconnected with aluminum tape to obtain a sealed shut-off. A similar film of wind insulation is used on the outside to protect it from moisture from the outside.

The thickness of the walls of the frame bath

The main value is the width of the frame boards. Recommended - 150 mm... Adding to this the thickness of two layers of lathing, the inner clapboard and the outer cladding, we obtain the total wall thickness, of the order of 250 - 270 mm. The dimensions are arbitrary, in each case the choice of the builder may fall on materials of other thicknesses. The main condition remains the observance of the principle of operation of the cake, which provides insulation and excludes the effect of condensation.

Prompt: there are opinions that 10 centimeters of insulation is enough, in which case, the above can be reduced by 5 cm.

Insulation of the walls of the frame bath

Heat protection of the ceiling passage of the chimney

The chimney passage through the ceiling slab must be equipped with a passage assembly. Even when using a special sandwich pipe on the chimney no contact with wooden parts is allowed.

On sale are ready-made nodes of the passage, which are a sheet of metal with a hole for a pipe and a box surrounding it. A square hole is cut in the ceiling to fit the box plus a layer of insulator.

The bushing, lined with a layer of insulator, is inserted into the hole, which is also pre-punched around the entire perimeter with an insulator, and fastened to the screws. The chimney, wrapped in an asbestos cord, is passed through the hole and taken out. The box of the passage unit from above can be covered with expanded clay.

The construction of a bathhouse using frame technology is an economical, effective and quick solution to the issue. The result will be a fully functional sauna that has almost half the heating time of a conventional wooden sauna and has lower fuel costs. Such properties make the frame construction technology the most profitable and preferable. More than enough information is given here about the construction of the walls of a frame bath. Now it's up to you and a bathhouse made of boards and insulation will be able to delight you and your household.

Where to order

The demand for frame baths provides a wide range of offers from companies. Some businesses,.

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The logic of designing residential buildings, summer cottages and baths largely depends on the functional purpose of the buildings. Recently, the frame house construction method has gained great popularity: it is fast, relatively cheap and, at first glance, very simple in terms of thermal insulation. However, the fashion for the use of certain schemes does not help to find universal building solutions, since they simply do not exist. What's good for the home may not be good for the spa. Let's consider the insulation of the main surfaces of the frame bath and try to determine the feasibility of using various types of thermal insulation and other technological elements that form the necessary microclimate in the steam room.

Frame buildings belong to inertialess thermal systems, that is, to houses with a low heat capacity. What is the meaning of this parameter? It reflects the ability of building nodes to store thermal energy. The heat accumulated by the walls and foundations is released into the room, providing, on the one hand, slow cooling of the space when the heating is turned off, and on the other hand, slow heating to the required temperature.

The frame bath is economical and quick to erect

A house built on the principle of a frame filled with thermal insulation heats up quickly and cools down just as quickly. Strong (in the traditional sense) walls are absent, and insulation for a frame bath poorly passes energy through itself, but just as badly and accumulates it in itself.

During the operation of the heating system, the level of heat saving of such an object is very high and is usually close to the "passive house" standard. However, the need for constant heating brings serious inconveniences for permanent residence in buildings of this type. But nobody lives in the baths! Here, the heating rate of the steam room is much more important. It is for such objects that low inertia is more likely a positive factor than a negative one.

Thermal insulation of walls

In accordance with the construction of the wall sandwich in frame housing construction, the insulation of the bath walls is not external or external. It is internal, since it is a filling of honeycombs created by vertical posts made of thick boards or beams.

Filling the voids

Of course, we are talking about the main insulating layer. The most commonly used mineral (basalt) wool. But not because it is "the warmest material", but for a number of other reasons:

Fire safety. Timber frame is the most flammable wall structure. Therefore, filling with non-combustible stone wool greatly reduces the risk of fire.
Water vapor permeability. To reduce the level of moisture condensation from the air inside the wall sandwich, the principle of increasing the vapor permeability of layers is used: the value of the parameter should increase in the direction from the inner surface of the walls to the outer one. Mineral fiber rolls and mats have a higher vapor permeability than internal timber cladding. This increases the resource of the wooden frame by preventing rotting and the formation of fungal mildew.
The price of the issue. Firstly, cotton wool is cheaper than EPS boards and sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU). Secondly, when using cotton wool, you can do without the cost of ventilating the wall sandwich. Thirdly, you can save on wages for installers: do-it-yourself warming of a frame bath using this scheme is a simple matter, since all the materials used are quite light.

Since there is no traditional windproof wall material, special Isoplaat windproof boards are used in the sandwich, made from finely dispersed coniferous wood powder, impregnated with moisture-proof compounds (resins and paraffins). These slabs also play the role of structural stiffness of the walls. When using mineral wool sandwich for warming the walls of the bath looks like this (from the inside of the steam room - outward):

decorative finishing made of solid wood (lining, sheet piling, or ordinary planking);
vapor barrier membrane (for example, foil-clad material);
a layer of stone wool;
waterproofing membrane;
windproof Isoplaat;
decorative paneling with a high level of vapor permeability.

It should be noted that even without outer cladding, high-quality wind protection retains its properties for 5 - 10 years. The peculiarity of wall insulation in frame baths using mineral wool is the installation of large thicknesses of insulation (up to 150-200 mm, depending on the climatic zone). A common technique is to combine roll and panel materials that form 2 layers of insulation.

In theory, EPS or polyurethane foam can be used instead of cotton wool, but certain design tweaks are required to protect these materials from temperatures above + 75 ° C. Firstly, the stove is not closer than 1.5 m to the wall. Secondly, it is mandatory to use reflective foil materials with their own insulating layer. Moreover, a ventilated gap of 1.5 - 3 cm must be maintained between the foil insulation and the insulation plate.

Otherwise, the structure of the sandwich repeats that already described.

The greatest difficulty is the arrangement of powerful ventilation capable of drying the air inside the frame. This measure makes the EPS and PU foam insulation scheme much more expensive. Therefore, foamed polystyrene and polyurethanes are practically not used in baths of this type.

External insulation with EPS boards is possible. In this case, instead of windproof materials of the Isoplaat type, the frame is sheathed with OSB sheets, on which expanded polystyrene foam board is glued on top.

Insulation of ceilings and floors

There are practically no specific differences in the insulation of ceilings in frame baths from work in other types of buildings. On floor ceilings, the main insulating layer is mounted from the inside of the steam room, and in the case of hemmed ceilings - from above, from the side of the under-roof space.

From the inside, a reflective layer (foil material) and a thermal insulator located behind it (mineral wool or EPS boards) are used. Regardless of the type of insulation, an air gap is made between the infrared screen and the main layer. From the side of the under-roof space, the cotton wool is protected by a waterproofing membrane.

When installing the bath floor, do not forget about the drain

False ceilings can be insulated with the same materials as floor ceilings, but bulk mixes (most often eco-wool) are usually preferred for their arrangement.

Floor insulation in a budget frame bath is carried out, as a rule, using cellular self-growing concretes. In more expensive buildings, options are possible with the arrangement of underfloor heating on the ground, providing for a concrete screed over the EPSP layer. On the concrete, which is the sub-floor, a plank finishing floor made of a jointed "forty" is laid.

The use of DIY heaters

The second most frequently used heater for frame-type baths are compositions based on sawdust and shavings. Processed in a certain way, the material is filled in portions and rammed. A wall sandwich using sawdust has the following structure (from the inside to the outside):

board sheathing;
kraft paper (no air gap);
sawdust with a layer thickness of 10 cm;
kraft paper;
sheathing from the board.

The boards play the role of both a strength frame and decorative cladding. Reflective screens are usually not used, since the default sawdust option should be the simplest structurally and inexpensively.

Pretreatment of sawdust consists in soaking them in a lime solution. Lime imparts moisture resistance to the material and is quite effective in terms of fire protection.

If the work is carried out in the warm season, there is no need to dry the limescale shavings before installation. Evaporation of excess moisture occurs rather quickly after backfilling.

In operation, the processed sawdust has shown itself to be the same effective material as mineral wool, but devoid of one of its main disadvantages - high hygroscopicity. For floor insulation, sawdust is used as part of cellular concrete. The treated sawdust is covered with a layer of about 200 mm into the natural caissons of the ceilings with moderate compaction. The layer is closed from above with a waterproof membrane.

Video: we insulate the frame bath correctly

Summary

Performing thermal insulation of frame-type spa zones according to one of the described schemes, it is possible to obtain a relatively inexpensive, but very effective version of a steam room with easy achievement of high temperatures and intense vaporization. The main attention is required to carefully study the issues of vapor barrier and prevention of condensation of atmospheric moisture inside the sandwich walls. The inhibition of the development of undesirable microflora depends on this, which determines the sterility of the procedures and the extension of the resource of the wooden frame of the bath.

Wall insulation technology

After rereading a lot of information and consulting with familiar builders, I decided to focus on the following version of the insulating "pie":

1 layer - insulation
2 layer - foil for vapor barrier
3 layer - lining for cladding

Selection and fixing of an insulating layer

As an insulating material, I immediately brushed aside foam and glass wool, since I am not completely sure of their safety. When heated, they emit volatile substances and hardly anyone wants to turn their own bath into an analogue of a gas chamber. I looked at several other options and settled on 60mm thick stone wool (basalt wool). It is recommended to be used for steam rooms, in addition, it is not flammable, so that's it!

To fix the insulation, I used wooden blocks of 80x80 mm, which I screwed to the walls vertically with a step of 60 cm. Slabs of stone wool are easily laid between them. They do not fall out of the crate, since the distance between the bars is slightly less than the standard width of the insulation.

Vapor barrier layer

The role of the vapor barrier layer in the insulating cladding is played by foil (ordinary aluminum or on kraft paper). It is necessary to protect the insulation and the inner surface of the bath wall from moisture. The attendants know very well that when a cold bath is heated, condensation always forms on the walls. If it gets on the insulation, then the fungus, unpleasant odor and other "delights" of a damp room are provided to you.

Naturally, in this situation, the insulation will not live long and will eventually rot. And along with it, the walls of the frame will deteriorate, which is really quite sad. If you lay foil as a vapor barrier layer, then the resulting condensation will flow down through it, and will not fall on the insulation and walls.

The thicker the foil is, the better it will cope with its functions, so I advise you to use a material with a thickness of 80-100 microns. The foil is attached to the blocks with a stapler. For additional fixation of the foil, I also used thin wooden strips, which I fixed on the sides of the blocks.

The biggest challenge in installing foil is to create a continuous vapor barrier with no open joints. Therefore, all joints are carefully glued with a special tape for foil, ordinary tape is not suitable for this.

Wall cladding

It is important to note that a ventilation gap of 1-2 cm should remain between the foil and the clapboard. Why? Everything is very simple: it will allow the condensate accumulated on the foil to dry out, and not be absorbed into the lining. This ventilation gap is provided by the width of the bars, between which the insulation was laid and which in the future will serve to fix the lining.

In the steam room, I fixed the lining horizontally, since this position allows water falling on the walls to flow down without falling into the joints. There is one more advantage of horizontal laying: if over time the lower boards begin to rot (rotting always starts from the bottom, since there is higher humidity and lower temperature), then they can be easily replaced. With the vertical arrangement of the lining, this number will not work and the entire skin will have to be replaced.

The lining is attached to the vertical bars with self-tapping screws. The lining should not be painted over with any modern impregnations and coatings, otherwise you will have to breathe chemical vapors. I heard that it is not bad to paint over the lining with hot natural linseed oil, supposedly this creates a water-repellent film inside the pores of the tree, but does not seal the pores themselves. However, in any case, my personal opinion remains that it is not necessary to cover the walls of the steam room with anything - the tree in the bath should get wet, and then dry well, and then no rot is scary.

Features of ceiling insulation

Insulation is carried out in exactly the same way as wall insulation. The only difference is that the insulation layer for the ceiling should be 2 times thicker. This is due to the fact that the bulk of the heat always rises upward when the sauna is fired up and goes out through the ceiling. If you pay special attention to the insulation of the ceiling, then this heat will not go anywhere, respectively, the bath will heat up more in a shorter period of time.

After a layer of foil, the ceiling is sheathed with wooden clapboard

That's all the wisdom of warming a bath. Of course, I do not believe that this option is the ultimate truth, perhaps you will come up with a more perfect insulating structure for the walls and ceiling of the bath. However, what I offer has been working well on my site for over a year!