Step by step instructions for installing siding. How to properly install vinyl siding. Installation of internal corner profiles

is a modern facing material for finishing buildings with a rich assortment of colors and textures.

It performs several main functions:

decorative, as it has an impeccable appearance due to the variety of textures and shades.
Protective: from the impact of various weather phenomena, the external environment.
insulation: if there is thermal insulation material between the frame rails.

Siding panels are made from various materials: wood, steel, cement, ceramics, vinyl.

Vinyl siding has gained particular popularity in the construction market due to its low price, durability, decorative properties and quality characteristics:

Frost-resistant.
Does not need special care.
Wear resistant and durable.
Easy to install.
Easy to transport due to its small size and weight.
Environmentally friendly and non-toxic.
Does not corrode.
UV resistant.

The undoubted advantage of siding is that you can use it in house cladding without inviting specialists, with your own hands.

How to fix?

Fastening panels is recommended with galvanized or aluminum nails, staples to wood, but practitioners often use self-tapping screws that are convenient to work at height with a screwdriver and a magnetic nozzle. The main thing is corrosion resistance, otherwise, over time, the look will be spoiled by rusty spots.

The procedure for installing panels is as follows:

Plinth lining and drainage installation. The house may have a plinth in the same plane with the wall or protruding. For the second option, you need a rain tide, which can be made from a siding drain strip, a galvanized corner or a metal-plastic corner. First, the corner is processed, the joint is sealed with silicone. An ebb is installed from the corners, with an overlapping joint of the planks. Below, at low tide, a rigid rail is attached along the entire length of the base. Using the level, a strictly horizontal line is checked. It is advised to make a low tide around the entire perimeter of the house.
Setting the start profile. The starting panel at the bottom of the plinth is mandatory, since the rigidity and appearance of the entire cladding structure depend on it. First, you need to mark the lower level of the skin in one of the corners. Then, 4 cm higher, drive a nail. The same is done in the other corner of the wall. A line is outlined, which along the perimeter is drawn around the house with similar markings. The edges of the nail strips are marked on the crate. The upper edge of the starting profile is set along the marking line. The starting line must be strictly horizontal. Further, it will be hidden by subsequent panels.
At the plinth interface and the main facade, it is possible to install a border, which will become the basis of the next row.
Installation of corner panels. Corner profiles are attached immediately after the completion of the starting line. The panels are overlapped to protect the joint from water ingress. It is necessary to ensure that the junction is at the same level in all corners. The main fastener pitch is 2-2.5 cm. The fasteners are made in the center of the holes and are not recessed to the limits.
Decoration of door and window openings. Special near-window J-profiles with a shelf for finishing slopes are used. Finishing profiles are attached around the perimeter. In deep niches, conventional sheathing using an angular profile is possible. Under the window opening, ordinary panels are cut to the width of the window, taking into account the required clearance.
Installation of facade elements. Ordinary panels are attached from the starting strip. Do not forget about the gaps on both sides of the profile. Every third row is recommended to control the horizontal level.
Roof overhangs and gable. For finishing with perforation. This allows the roof to be ventilated. Spotlights are fastened after 30 cm. J-profile or corner is used in the design of the pediment.
Siding joint. The service life and appearance of the building depends on the correct docking. Consider:
- General starting rule: join the horizontal arrangement of the siding from the bottom up, and the vertical one - from the corner or the center line of the wall.
- With temperature fluctuations, the deformation occurs not in the width, but in the length of the panels. Therefore, play at the joints is required.
- When mounting, do not put pressure on the profile, do not stretch, do not allow rigid docking.
- Profile fixation is carried out from the middle of the bar to the edges with a horizontal arrangement, from top to bottom - with vertical fasteners.

Despite the general rules and work procedures, each type of siding has some of its own characteristics:

On vinyl siding the largest thermal expansion: one panel, 3 m in size, changes length by 10-12 mm with temperature changes. Metal siding is not subject to deformation.
When cutting metal siding strong heating should not be allowed, as the polymer layer along the edge is destroyed, and over time rust will appear there.
On cold days, vinyl panels cannot be cut with a knife or scissors - there will be cracks along the cut line.
Fastening need to be done on a metal crate, since wooden guides near the ground will quickly become unusable.

Cladding accessories and surface preparation

Main components include:

Start profile. In order to stiffen the bottom row, not a vinyl, but a steel panel is attached. Placed at the very bottom of the skin so as to remain hidden. The launch panel can be trimmed, leaving a part with perforation and a receiving lock.
J profile. It is used for decoration of windows and doorways, closes the side edges of the panels on the facade, can be used as a finishing profile in places where corners other than 90 0 are joined.
Angle profile. It is intended for docking of panels both on external, and internal corners.
H-panels. They serve as a connection if the length of the sheet does not allow the wall to be completely closed. Connection of two J-profiles is possible.
Finishing panels. Used to complete the wall cladding of a building. Close the last siding profiles.
Soffit panels. Serve for decorative finishing of cornices, fastened with a J-profile.

Additionally, ventilation vents and other possible accessories made of the same material as are required.

Surface preparation includes the following necessary work:

Weed clearing, dirt, etc.
Dismantling of decorative ornaments, platbands, window sills, shutters, etc.
wooden walls check for the presence of rotten elements, remove and treat with an antiseptic.
Treat with sealant places of possible moisture penetration: cracks, cracks, pipe insertion points, etc.

In order to create thermal insulation and reduce the load on the walls, the sheathing is fastened to the prepared crate. It is impossible to mount the profile on walls, even fairly flat ones.

Lathing installation

Wooden crate device

If the new wooden walls are perfectly even, the crate is not made. But this happens very rarely. For stone and block surfaces, lathing is required. Its installation is necessary to ensure the support of the siding in one plane.

The frame of the crate keeps the free space between the wall and the sheathing, which allows you to keep warm in winter and protect it from overheating in summer.

The material for the crate is selected depending on the type of surface:

On wooden walls- wooden beams.
On stone walls- wooden beams, PVC slats or galvanized profile.
On brick and concrete walls- galvanized profile.

The procedure for making the crate is as follows:

With a level and a tape measure you need to outline straight lines around the perimeter of the wall until a closed contour is obtained.
Wall-mounted starting from the corners, vertical guides are attached. If necessary, pieces of wood or foam can be used to seal. The installation step is 30-45 cm.
Guides, you need to add in places of additional load on the panel, around windows and doors.

Do not connect vertical rails horizontal slats to keep ventilation under the siding.
Dry the wooden crate well to avoid warping, treat with flame retardant and antiseptic.
Use stainless nails.

At the same time, it is possible to insulate the building with foam, glass wool or polyethylene, while maintaining the ventilation space. Therefore, the thickness of the timber or laths of the crate must be greater than the insulation layer. Moisture must not be allowed to accumulate behind the siding panels to prevent the appearance of fungus or mold.

Do not cut a large amount of profile based on preliminary calculations. Errors are possible. Therefore, it is better to prepare the material in parts, for each section separately.
Do not drive nails through the siding panel or screw in screws. Use only the designated holes.
In panel fastening, use nylon washers - will provide resistance in strong winds.

Finishing with siding is the second life of a house that has retained its strength and received a new aesthetic look.

Siding is not new. We are accustomed to using different types of this material; it is found both on facades and in interiors, in buildings of all purposes.

How to fix the siding to create a flat surface, decorate the facade - the question worries many individual developers.

Hearing that siding began to be used for the first time in America, a Russian carpenter a couple of centuries ago simply shrugged. What siding? Look at the Russian North: half of the churches are sheathed with boards, and even residential buildings were “playful” - they were sheathed with thin wooden planks at different angles - protection from the weather, concern for durability. Once again, "ours" comes to us from the West under a new name. The historical tour is over.

What is modern siding, what types exist, how to properly fix siding to the wall, how to fix it?

To date, this type of finishing panels is produced from a variety of materials:

Vinyl;
Acrylic;
fiber cement;
Steel;
Aluminum;
Wood.

Most often, vinyl siding is used - very light, easy to install, durable, attractive at a low price. The negative characteristics include fragility: it is pressed through and breaks with an accidental strong impact.

Acrylic siding is stronger than vinyl siding, more resistant to freezing temperatures and UV radiation.

Fiber cement is noticeably heavier, but its strength is much higher than the previous ones. Durable, resistant to temperature fluctuations, has many different designs that mimic natural materials.

Two types of metal siding are produced from galvanized steel sheet painted according to RAL:

Lath siding is a durable material that allows you to diversify the color scheme of the facade and protect the wall from negative natural factors.
Block house - imitating a log wall. This type of finish, with the positive qualities of a steel lath, gives the wall the aesthetics of a house made of logs.

Aluminum is much lighter than steel, reduces the load on walls and foundations, is durable, but not resistant to mechanical damage.

Wooden siding is a classic of the genre, but in order to maintain the finish in working condition, it requires the renewal of fire-fighting and antiseptic impregnation at intervals of 3-5 years, depending on the composition used.

Siding is produced with a variety of surface designs, it can imitate rubble and brickwork, bark beetle plaster, it can be plain-colored and with a perforated surface. In most cases, individual developers choose vinyl: siding can be fixed to any wall, they are attracted by the low price of the material and the possibility of mounting on wooden rails.

Before installation

All types of panels perform two functions:

Aesthetic - decorate the facade.
Utilitarian - protect the facade from the weather.

The panels are also mounted according to the same principle: special combs are installed on the rails, panels are put on them. The layout of the panels can be varied: horizontal, vertical, at an angle. What to mount siding on? Two options: special fasteners (more often used for metal and fiber cement) or wooden beams.

Like any other work in building a house, it requires accuracy, but it is quite accessible to a beginner. To obtain a high-quality, even surface of the cladding, compliance with the rules is required, in case of non-compliance with which there will be no one to blame for poor-quality work:

Before installation, prepare the wall - clean it of dirt, repair the plaster if necessary, level the surface, dismantle the ebbs and aprons.
When - treat the walls with fungicidal and fire-fighting compounds.
Check the tightness of the connections - window and door filling, input-output communications.
Install the guides strictly vertically, aligning the front with gaskets or special branded fasteners.
Observe the tolerances for the initial and final strips, within the openings.

IMPORTANT: if necessary, insulate the house and perform cladding possible options:

The combination of processes, in this case we get the system "ventilated facade".
With simultaneous insulation, the guide rails of the insulation system and the cladding are attached in parallel.
Division of work, installation of siding on an insulated surface.

In the first case, it is necessary to use special fasteners and slab fibrous insulation with a laminated surface or geotextile, fasten the cladding at a distance of at least 40 mm from the insulation.

In the second case, it is possible to use expanded polystyrene plates and “wet plaster”.

It is preferable to perform work in the third way, the cladding is mounted on an already leveled surface.

It would be useful to clean the space from vegetation and debris at a distance of up to 50 cm from the wall, and when finishing a house with a height of 2 or more floors, the construction of scaffolding that can be rented.

Necessary materials and tools

Having chosen the type of plank, we purchase the materials necessary for work:

straps starting, finishing, corner;
slats for framing window and door openings;
joint strips masking the vertical seam between the rails;
soffits located under the roof overhang;
beam for framing.

Tools needed:

Saw (jigsaw or grinder).
Drill, screwdriver.
Hammer.
Roulette, building level.
Pliers.
Ladder stepladder.

Required protective equipment: goggles, respirator, gloves. Having prepared the scope of work, we proceed to installation.

Installation

Work begins with the implementation of the lathing from a bar with a minimum section of 20 x 40 mm. The timber must be dried to 15-22% moisture, impregnated with fungicide and antipyrine.

With a horizontal layout of the siding, we fasten the beam vertically, with a vertical layout of the rail - horizontally with a step of no more than 600 mm. We check the vertical with a plumb line. Be sure to install the bars along the edges of the openings of windows and doors.

To fasten the beam to wooden walls, we use nails or self-tapping screws, when fastening to an insulated wall - dowel - with screws longer than the thickness of the insulation layer plus the thickness of the beam by 50 mm. Attach the vinyl siding to the timber with galvanized self-tapping screws.

IMPORTANT: we take into account seasonal temperature expansion - when fastening, we do not tighten the screws tightly, for additional elements we make a gap of 4-5 mm, in winter - 7-9 mm.

The lower horizontal beam along the perimeter of the building is attached first, the upper cornice beam is the second, then the vertical ordinary ones starting from the corner of the house.
The next stage is the installation of the starting J-shaped plank, which we fasten 4 cm above the intended level of the lining, with a gap of 6 mm from the edge of the corner bar and with the planks overlapping each other by 12 mm.
Next - corner and docking profiles, which are cut from below and above to the middle of the first mounting hole in the bar. We measure and install the joint strips depending on the length of the main rails and the presence of openings in the wall.
We install the second siding panel, fixing it in the recess of the starting bar, inserting it into the groove of the corner and docking profile.
We repeat the operation for all facades.
We mount the final profile - soffit.

In the video you will see how the overlapped siding is mounted on a wooden frame.

Installed correctly, siding will last for many years, decorating the house and delighting the owners. And the question: siding - a forced decision? - will not arise. Siding is a hit of facade design!

Sheathing a house with siding is possible even for a beginner. It is enough to know the procedure and some of the nuances of installation. If you decide to choose vinyl siding as a facing material, do-it-yourself installation is more than simple.

PVC siding is flexible and pliable, which reduces the likelihood of panel damage and injury. A step-by-step guide will allow you to sheathe the facade of the house with siding, even without construction experience.

Based on the material below, you will learn how to fix the siding to the wall correctly.

For greater clarity, each stage is accompanied by photos, diagrams, drawings and videos.

Please note that these instructions are for installing vinyl siding, which is different from metal siding.

Knife. Who does not know how to cut vinyl siding: vinyl is a soft material, it can be easily cut with a sharp knife. To do this, you need to designate a groove on the panel. Bend and unbend the strip several times. As a result, it will break according to the intended cut.

Electric jigsaw. Used instead of a knife. It gives a more beautiful cut, and also allows you to speed up the process of preparing panels to size.

Drill or perforator. With their help, it is convenient to increase the holes for fastening hardware or punch new ones.

Screwdriver. For screwing fasteners.
Building level. The laser is very easy to use.
Roulette.

Good to know. If you are going to use a grinder to cut siding panels, this is acceptable. However, keep in mind that at high speeds, the sheet cut will begin to heat up and melt. This will cause it to deform. Therefore, use the grinder at low power.

When starting to clad a house with vinyl siding, always keep in mind that this material has a high coefficient of linear expansion. This means that a gap of 5-7 mm must be observed between the starting strips, as well as between rows and strips. And if the installation is carried out at a temperature below -10 ° C (which is generally unacceptable from the point of view of common sense, but it is quite customary for domestic practice), then the gaps should be at least 10 mm.

There must also be a gap between the working surface of the material and the fasteners. Below we will talk about this in more detail.

Vinyl siding should rest at least a couple of hours at outdoor temperature before installation begins.

Under no circumstances should siding be screwed through with a self-tapping screw. This approach to installation can lead to cracking of the sheet of material. But, if such a need arose, to fix the sheet not where the nail holes were punched, you must first drill a hole for the hardware, and only then fix the sheet or additional element.

Despite the fact that fastening siding with self-tapping screws is the most common in domestic practice, you can still use fasteners such as nails and staples.

Installation of vinyl siding - instructions

In general, the installation of vinyl siding can be divided into several stages:

fixing the starting bar;
installation of vertical bars (corners and H-connector);
installation of siding panels;
framing window and door openings with siding;
installation of vinyl siding around the arch;
arrangement of protruding elements;
fastening of finishing strips;
soffit installation;
pediment lining.

Good to know: fastening siding to a metal crate or to a wooden one, or even to the base of the wall surface, always starts from the bottom. This allows each subsequent panel to be placed above the previous one. Thus, additional protection of the surface or insulation from moisture is achieved.

1. Installation of the starting bar (starting strip)

Installation of siding panels always takes place using the starting bar. It is attached around the perimeter of the building (or that part of it that is planned to be sheathed).

The initial bar is closed by a number of panels, so there are no special requirements for it. It can be connected from scraps or a bar of a different color can be used.

The starting bar sets the tone for the whole work. It is better to spend more time leveling it than trying to correct even a minimal slope during the installation work.

Before you begin to fasten it, you need to designate the place of the future fastening.

To do this, drive in a nail (screw in a screw) at the lowest level of the wall.

The distance from the nail to the ground should be equal to the width of the starting bar.

Next, stretch the thread between the nails. Check the correct thread tension using the building level. Next, using chalk, draw a line along the thread between the nails. It will indicate the line of attachment of the starting strip.

The more often you use the level, the more correctly and evenly the installation of the siding will be performed.

However, at least every third row of ordinary strips of siding should be checked for the possibility of deviation from the level.

After that fix the bar.

How to attach vinyl siding to a wall

When installing vinyl elements, fasteners must be properly carried out. Namely, it is important to adhere to the following conditions:

- the distance between two adjacent self-tapping screws should be about 250-300 mm.

It is necessary to twist the hardware or hammer in a nail strictly perpendicular to the plane.

- fasten the screws only in the middle of the nail hole, which has an oval appearance, it is this trick that allows the panel to slide when expanding. The correct way is shown in the figure.

- the self-tapping screw is not fully tightened. A gap of 1 mm must be observed between the surface of the material and the head of the self-tapping screw.

The desired gap is achieved in two ways.

First, you can attach a coin.

Secondly, you can twist it all the way, and then loosen it one turn. There should always be a gap of 5-7 mm between two starting bars located in the neighborhood.

The gap compensates for the linear expansion of the material.

Installation of the strip at the corners is not carried out completely. Since a special corner bar is used to arrange the corner.

Using staples as fasteners, you must also maintain a gap of 1 mm.

Good to know. Some builders recommend immediately installing the starting bar on window and door blocks. However, this should not be done, because the need for it does not always arise. The dimensions of the window are not so ideal that ordinary siding strips during installation turn out to be just at the level of the strip.

2. Fastening of vertical strips - corners and H-connector

2.1 Fastening the planks

The corners are set before the installation of the main strips. It is in them that ordinary panels are wound up.

Mounting a vinyl corner also has its own characteristics:

First, the angle is set to 5-7 mm without touching the ground. When heated, the angle will expand vertically and the gap left will not allow it to deform.

Secondly, it is important to properly fix the screws. As you can see in the figure, the corner is attached starting from the top nail hole. Moreover, the screw is twisted into its upper part. On this self-tapping screw (nail) the whole corner seems to be hanging in the air.

Thus, the material can only expand downwards and to the sides.

The rest and the last self-tapping screw are twisted in the same way as the starting strip - clearly in the middle of the nail hole.

Thirdly, the lower edges of the corner are cut to the width of the starting bar. This avoids deformation of the material when heated.

It will look as shown in the picture.

Separate cases in the technology of installing vinyl siding

The length of the corner bar is up to 4 meters. But you may need to lengthen the corner.

Mount the bottom bar of the corner, then cut off the fasteners on the sides from the top and “put” on the bottom, leaving a gap of 5 mm for compression under the influence of temperature.

The overlap is 20-25 mm.

The figure shows how to lengthen the bar

Good to know:

The joints at the corners and the H-connector must be at the same level. This will make the appearance of the house more harmonious.
The upper bar of the corner is mounted on the lower one, and not vice versa. This will protect the corner from water leakage.

Since the corners of vinyl siding are flexible, they can be used to trim blunt and sharp corners of a building.

For an obtuse angle, the profile must be pressed down, for an acute one, narrowed.

For the inner corner, the procedure will be similar.

Given the cost of the corners, you can save on them if you mount two J-bars in their place. The installation process is shown in the figure.

2.4. H-profile installation

This type of work also does not take much time and effort. It is important to correctly calculate the location of the bar. Fastening is carried out similarly to fastening corners.

the lower bar is mounted first, and then the upper one;
if necessary, lengthening is cut into pieces of 5-7 mm with perforation (to compensate for expansion);
overlap profiles.

Keep in mind, the starter strips must be adjacent to the H-connector, and not vice versa.

Good to know. You can do without installing an H-shaped profile in this case, the siding strips will overlap.

The photo shows how the wall should look before starting the installation of ordinary siding panels.

3. Installation of ordinary siding panels

We’ll make a reservation right away that ordinary panels can be fixed in a circle, or you can trim one wall. From the point of view of siding installation technology, this does not matter.

Installation takes place in several steps:

3.1. The first strip of siding is inserted into the vertical grooves of the angled or H-shaped profile and fixed with a self-tapping screw exactly in the center of the nail holes.

At the same time, hardware is attached from the center of the panel to the edges, towards the vertical slats.

Good to know.
To make it easier to insert the strip, you need to slightly bend it outward.

As already mentioned, the siding panel starts in the outer or inner corners. In the event that you use a budget mounting option, you can equip the inner panel in the ways shown in the figure.

Don't forget to leave room for expansion.

3.2. The siding panel must be lowered to the initial bar and snapped into place. To do this, you need the strip lock to catch on the starting bar. Never "pull out" the panel. Since in this case the radius of the panel will stretch and the locks will be deformed. How to install the siding panel correctly - see the picture.

Good to know.
If, after the lock of the next strip snaps onto the lock of the previous one, the panel can be moved horizontally, then its installation was carried out according to the rules.

3.3. After the panel is installed, it can be fixed with hardware.

3.4. All remaining rows, with the exception of the last one, are performed in the same sequence.

If you need to connect the panels together, and you did not provide an H-profile or you do not like how it looks, you can do it as follows.

First, remove the interlock from the panel.
Secondly, lay two sheets on top of each other.
Thirdly, put the cut off part of the sheet under the lock.

The photo shows what it looks like in practice.

For your information:

Some manufacturers produce panels without locking on the end of the siding sheet.
Panels at the joints are not sealed.
The mounting line can be flat, or it can be offset.

4. Installation of a window siding strip near window and door openings

There are two possible ways of arranging openings relative to the wall surface.

in one plane. In this case, the openings are simply sheathed around the perimeter with J-profiles and the siding panel is already inserted into them.

with slope arrangement. With this arrangement, the panels are installed in the manner indicated in the figure.

In practice, it looks like it is shown in the photo.

Getting the panel into such a design is also not difficult. Because the vinyl is quite flexible, the panel is simply bent slightly and installed into the J-profile.

The main thing here is to properly cut the strip of siding.

Docking ears are holes in the strip of material designed for fastening hardware. They are made with a punch.

5. Installation of vinyl siding around the arch

If the openings in your house end in an arch, this is not a problem for installing plastic siding.

Finishing an arch with vinyl siding differs from finishing a regular opening only in the way the J-bar is installed.

Flexible J-bar greatly simplifies the finishing of arched openings. To do this, notches are made on the profile and the smaller the radius, the more often notches should be made.

The process is clearly shown in the photo.

Installation of siding around protruding objects occurs by cutting the strip and fastening it with an overlap.

7. Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

It is done like this - first the finishing bar is fixed.

Then the distance from the last ordinary strip is measured from it. This is the value that the last siding panel should correspond to.

The strip is bent horizontally in an arc and wound into the lock and the finish bar.

8. Installation of siding soffit

8.1. With wind bar

If the frontal board is small, it can be closed with a wind bar. To do this, a finishing bar is mounted along the upper edge of the frontal board, and the wind bar is attached so that its upper part is fixed by the finishing profile.

Then a J-profile is attached to the wall and a soffit is installed between it and the wind bar.

In this case, the soffit can be installed in one of the two ways shown in the diagram.

In this way, installation is carried out if the frontal board is wider than the wind bar.

In this case, the outer corner is attached to the edge of the frontal board, and the J-profile on both sides of it at the required distance. A soffit of the desired size is cut out and wound up between one of the parts of the corner and the J-bar.

Similarly, the finishing on the second side.

It is not recommended to mount a dark-colored soffit in this way, since it is highly prone to fading on the frontal bar.

9. Mounting the gable with siding

Installing a gable is no different from installing ordinary siding strips. Produced as follows:

9.1. installation of the starting line. Occurs in full accordance with the rules described above.

Good to know:
You can use all the remnants of the J-profile that you have accumulated during your work to finish the pediment. It is not visible under the roofing material anyway.

This work is done as shown in the photo.

To do this, the J-strips must be laid on top of each other and cut diagonally on the front. Let's not forget the gap.

9.5. Plank preparation.

In order to cut off the siding strip correctly, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the roof slope.

This can be done using a simple technique: put a piece of a strip of material to the surface of the pediment, and the whole panel is level with the J-profile.

Then you need to draw a sharpened pencil over the overlap of the sheets. The result will be an accurate angle of inclination. Next, you should remove a short piece and cut off the siding along the line.

The process is more clearly shown in the drawing above.

Cut the corner of the last siding panel and bring it into the J-profile.

This is an exceptional case in the installation of vinyl siding, in which the hardware or nail hits the panel through and through.

Installation of vinyl siding - video instruction

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to reveal all the features of installing vinyl siding. We hope now you know how to mount facade siding with your own hands, as well as components for it.

Today, siding has become increasingly used for cladding buildings. The external design of the structure with this material makes it possible to eventually obtain a light, durable, beautiful and inexpensive coating that will reliably protect it from the influence of many environmental factors. The range of colors, textures and shapes of siding is wide, which makes it possible to create an individual design for your home.

Applicable tools

When installing vinyl siding, you should prepare:

1.Tools:

Bulgarian. Required for cutting panels.
hacksaw(scissors). It will be necessary when cutting a small size of the elements, to correct minor defects made when cutting the material with a grinder.
screwdriver with multiple attachments.
Perforator- for fastening the crate to the facade of the building.
Hammer.
Roulette.
Level.

2. Mounting material. When fastening the material, it is necessary to use self-tapping screws (nails) made of aluminum or galvanized. The length of the nails must exceed 4 cm, and the length of the self-tapping screws must be more than 1.5 cm, with a diameter of their hats of more than 0.9 mm.

When fixing 100m2 of siding, one thousand screws or nails will be required. Many specialists recommend using press washers when fastening, since they better fix the panels to any frame and do not corrode.

Sheathing construction and siding fasteners

performed on a wooden or metal crate. If you plan to mount on a wooden crate, then the tree must be dried well. Otherwise, the panel locks may be pinched and free movement will not occur. Also, many panels can pop out of the locks and break their parallelism. For a metal crate, a conventional metal profile is used.

Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws (if the crate is made of metal), nails (staples) to a wooden crate. Nails should enter the wooden crate to a depth of 3.5 cm, and staples to 20 mm. Nails driven in obliquely will prevent the panels from moving. Each fastener must be centered in the fastening hole. It is not recommended to press the hats tightly to the surface of the material; a small (1-1.5 mm) gap should be made. It is forbidden to drive fasteners through the panel.

The step of any type of crate with a horizontal fastening is 45-50 cm, and with a vertical fastening of the material, the step size is 30-35 cm.

Additionally, you can make or expand the existing holes for fastening with a puncher. When it is necessary to adhere to the rule: the beginning of fastening the horizontal panel is carried out from the middle, and the vertical one - from above.

Ensuring temperature gaps

This operation is carried out regardless of what material the walls of the building are made of. The clearance is performed for:

airspace creation, preventing the appearance of mold or fungus on the walls;
leveling the mounting surface because rarely the walls have a perfectly flat surface.

The material should not rest against the profiles, so its cutting is carried out taking into account the temperature gap. It will be double if the panel is mounted from one corner to another or from a docking bar to a corner. The gap size is calculated from the average outside temperature and the length of the panel. It is impossible to fasten the siding at temperatures below 10C, as it becomes brittle. The panels tend to elongate by 0.5mm for every 10C increase in temperature.

The value of the temperature gap is indicated without fail by each manufacturer, depending on the basic composition of the material. In the instructions, each manufacturer indicates the size of the gap for all nodes of the structure and the amount of joint overlap.

The size of the overlapping of the material is always 2.5 cm. The seam is never sealed. The intersection of the material is carried out end-to-end. There is no overlap under and above windows. When joining the material, overlaps should not be noticeable and the same rules apply as when gluing wallpaper. When arranging gutters and accessories on the facade of the building, the presence of gaps is also mandatory.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation of the first siding panel so that the installation defect cannot be repeated in the remaining rows.

Setting the start profile and low tide

It is necessary to mount the starting profile, since it is responsible for the reliability and rigidity of the finish. The crate cannot create rigidity, since its rows run parallel to each other. When joining two planks in stripes, a figure with right angles is formed. To give rigidity, you can use a metal profile. If the rigidity is absent and performed incorrectly, then installation defects will appear: panels and lock clips will warp, cracks will form.

The starting profile is mounted around the entire perimeter of the building at the very bottom of the horizontal bar. With its device, the evenness of the fastening is checked by a level. In further work, this profile will be closed by the first siding row. You can use not the whole profile, but its pieces. Then it will be necessary to make a gap of 5 mm between its parts.

The starting profile is mounted at the point where the material approaches the door and windows.

Low tide – This is a corner profile made of vinyl. The ebb device begins with its attachment to the corners.

The technology of its installation includes the processing of corners, and for this:

a piece about 50 cm long is cut off from the tide bar;
an element for the outer and inner corners is formed from it;
joints in the corners do not require sealing with silicone;
the top of the cut is aligned horizontally;
the joining of the slats for the ebb is carried out by overlapping.

Under the installed ebb, a rigid rail is mounted along the entire length of the base.

Plinth trim

If the basement sinks in the building or it goes flush with the wall, then the installation begins with fixing the starting strip. If the plinth is protruding, then an ebb is attached under the starting profile for draining water.

The process of attaching the material to the base is carried out from the bottom up. When sheathing the plinth, you must remember:

basement siding is selected, like wall siding from one manufacturer;
sheathing is carried out only horizontally before finishing the walls;
basement insulation is not carried out;
when sheathing, it is necessary to accurately calculate the consumption of the coating, because often there is an overrun of the material during this operation;
panels are interconnected by locks (upper and lower).

Plinth siding does not end with the usual J-profile or finish, but with a special plinth curb. It will also be the starting profile for the wall material at the same time.

Facade fasteners

When forming corners, corner panels are used. They are fastened in such a way that there is overhanging on the fasteners. The fastener pitch is 25mm. If necessary, the corner panels are overlapped to prevent water from entering the joint. Their installation is carried out at the end of the device of the starting profile, only before the installation of the main panels.

Soffits are used when hemming roof overhangs or gables. They are attached before the installation of the last row of siding panels. If the roof overhang is more than 60 cm, then it is necessary to make its crate. Spotlights are fastened to the crate. If the plumb line is smaller, then frame strips are required. Spotlights are fixed every 30 cm.

The work on edging the door and windows is carried out after fixing the corners. The following profiles are used for finishing window openings:

plank near the window;
platband - plank;
hanging plank.

Based on the rules for installing plastic windows, they are mounted to a depth equal to a third of the thickness of the entire wall. For shallow slopes, an angular profile is used. Use near the window strip is assumed with a slope depth of not more than 170 mm. If there are deep slopes, and the window profile cannot close it, then a hinged bar is attached.

Such a slope is performed as a wall using the start profile. Slopes are fastened with a finishing profile, a profile with a foam or glue lock. A window tide is installed on the foam. When fixing the panel with foam, the panels are fixed with special spacers until it is completely hardened.

To frame the window opening, a J-profile is used. A horizontal panel is inserted into it, used as a casing.

Vinyl siding trim

After the fastening of the profiles is completed, the installation of the siding begins. The process is carried out in a certain order:

1. The bottom panel is mounted along the entire length of the wall. If its length is insufficient, then the connection with the neighboring one is overlapped. The amount of overlap should not be less than 3 cm (a more secure fastening will be obtained using an H-profile pre-attached to the frame).

2. Fixing the siding. Their installation is carried out in compliance with certain rules:

fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out with a distance of 30cm relative to each other;
screwing in self-tapping screws or driving in nails is performed perpendicular to the wall strictly in the middle of the hole;
do not tighten the screws to the full stop, leave 1mm gap;
it is not recommended to fasten the panels to the corner, because there are special strips for decorating corners. The distance from them to the corner of the wall should be about 1 cm.

After completing the fastening of the first row, all the rest are mounted. The next panel is attached parallel to the profile so that the lock snaps into place easily. Preventing them from stretching, the panel is attached to the crate. Properly executed fastening will allow the panels to move horizontally.

Fastening is carried out in two ways: around the entire circle of the building or finishing along the walls.

3. Sheathing corners. Each of these corners is made out with special strips.

4. Fastening the finishing strip and the last row of material:

this bar is attached to the crate;
the distance from this bar is measured to the last attached row;
the grinder cuts out the siding of the required size;
bending horizontally, under the bar, it starts up neatly.

By adhering to this sequence of work and observing the main features of its implementation, fastening the siding is simple. The result of finishing the building with this material will not disappoint.

Do-it-yourself vinyl siding installation: final moments

At this stage, the device of the gables is carried out. The principle of performing all the work is similar to sheathing the walls of the building:

the starting line is strengthened;
mounted J-profile;
siding strips are attached.

If the length of the material is insufficient, a connecting strip is used. Its location should be considered so that it does not pass through a window or doorway, and also to prevent large trimmings.

Sheathing of gables can be performed in any of the directions. If the pediment differs from the wall, then their sheathing is delimited from each other by a horizontal H-molding. If the pediment has a protrusion inward, then the wall decoration should end with a finish, and the pediment finish should begin with an aquilon and a start panel.

When working on fastening siding panels, you must remember:

this material tends to change its dimensions with temperature fluctuations;
its required volume in m2 can be determined by measuring the perimeter of the building, multiplying by the height;

How to install vinyl siding?

Mounting siding is a good decorative move for decorating a veranda, house, log house and other structures. In addition to the excellent appearance, the profile is distinguished by a large number of positive qualities, of which a high level can be distinguished:

resistance to low temperatures;
moisture resistance;
durability.

Wall siding installation

If the former beauty of your house, log house or veranda has been lost, and you don’t know how to restore the building to its former beauty, do-it-yourself insulation and wall cladding of the house, log house or veranda is a wonderful way out of this situation. You will be pleasantly surprised by the fact that cladding and insulation will be within your power and you will not have to hire experienced finishers, you can easily do all the work yourself.

In cleaning, siding is not whimsical - painting and the use of specialized impregnations are not required. For care, you can simply occasionally clean the profile from dirt with water.

Siding can be made from different materials, but metal is considered the most high-quality and popular. Metal siding is made from galvanized steel and treated with a special polymer composition. It is metal siding that is considered the most durable material that can be used at different temperatures.

Technical features of the panel are given in the table.

What do you need to know before starting work?

How to fix siding to the wall?

Before attaching a profile, you need to buy it in the right size and color. To sheathe the wall with your own hands, siding is best suited, the length of which is 6m. This length of the canvas is the most popular, since after working with it the least waste remains.

I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the color of the siding plays an important role, and the cost of 1m2 of fabric varies between 150-200 rubles.

Regarding colors and textures, the profile has no restrictions. Today, siding is presented on the market in all kinds of colors and in different textures, which can imitate wood, brick, stone, and so on.

Many beginners are very interested in fixing siding, which can be done by hand in two variations. If the material is fixed, as the technology says, then before installation, you will have to install and align the guide rails. In another case, the siding can be mounted on the old sheathing, and in such a situation there will be no need to install guide rails.

How to correctly calculate the amount of material and gable?

Attaching siding to the wall

When you finally decide on the type of siding, you will have to start calculating its quantity. The easiest way to calculate is using a drawing. To do this, you can depict the building schematically and measure all the walls using the formula S \u003d axb, where a is the horizontal length of the wall, b is the vertical length. The area is calculated for each wall separately, and as a result, the sum of the footage of all surfaces is adjusted. In such a simple way, you will correctly calculate the total surface area of \u200b\u200bthe entire house, log house or veranda.

Pay special attention to the fact that the area of \u200b\u200bthe walls is calculated minus all windows and doors. You also need to take away all the decorative elements. You don't plan on siding them, do you?

If you are interested in how to sheathe the gable with siding, then for this you need to correctly calculate its area. To do this, you can imagine the pediment in the form of an isosceles triangle, in which the sides a and b will be equal, and the base can be denoted by the letter c. Now the following formula comes into play: P = (a + b + c) / 2, in which P is a semi-perimeter.

After that, you will need to use another formula that looks like this: S=p(p-a)(p-b)(p-c).

If we substitute data for the perimeter, we get the following:

a and b = 8m;
c = 6m;
according to the first formula, it turns out: P \u003d (8 + 8 + 6) / 2 \u003d 11m (this is a semi-perimeter);
we calculate the area: S=11(11-8)(11-8)(11-6);
as a result, we obtain the following data: S=495=22.25m2.

Thus, despite the fact that we had to carry out several mathematical calculations, we got the desired area. Such simple actions can significantly save material and prevent it from being overused when you decide to sheathe the gable with siding.

Surface preparation

Do-it-yourself siding installation

If you nevertheless decide to sheathe the surface of the house, log house or veranda with siding with your own hands, you need to know what it can be attached to, and what tools and materials you will need for this. You also need to know which mounting technology will help you with this.

And so, here is a list of tools that you need to acquire before starting work:

circular file;
metal ruler;
roulette;
hammer, pliers and pliers;
square (preferably made of metal or wood);
fine-toothed hacksaw for metal;
a screwdriver with a flat and Phillips blade;
knife-cutter;
thin rope;
level;
screwdriver

First of all, you need to remove all kinds of plants and weeds from the walls. If the building has a drain or other decorative elements, they will have to be dismantled. In general, you need to remove all elements that can interfere with the quality of the work.

If there are rotten elements on the wall, they will either have to be removed or replaced with new ones, because putrefactive deformations and changes in wood cannot be stopped. The rest of the surface is best treated with antiseptic agents.

After the decorative elements are removed, take a level and make sure the walls are even.

Wall insulation and lathing

Do-it-yourself wall cladding with siding

Before starting a conversation about siding fasteners, let's talk about the concept of battens. New framing of a building can only be avoided when the old wall cladding is in good condition.

If it is planned to clad an old house, log house or veranda, then the work here will be a little more complicated by the fact that from time to time the walls could deform or “float”. In such a situation, you will have to purchase the necessary tools and install scaffolding, because if you do the work yourself without outside help, you cannot do without them.

On "floating" or concrete walls, it is necessary to install a crate of boards or slats. The slats are fixed to the surface of the walls with ordinary nails, the length of which is 10 cm. Reiki should be nailed with a step width of 30-40cm. Please note that they must be installed around a window or doorway, as well as on all corners of the veranda, house or log house.

During the crate of the structure, you can also do its insulation, for which you can choose foam, mineral wool, glass wool or ordinary polyethylene.

Now the most important question arises: how can the profile be properly fixed in order to ensure subsequent insulation? All manufacturers indicate in the instructions that the profile can be fixed with galvanized or aluminum nails. But, if you think about it, it becomes clear that the easiest way to fix the siding profile is with self-tapping screws. Ask why so? Just imagine that you are doing the insulation with your own hands, balancing on the stairs, holding a siding profile in one hand, and a hammer and nails in the other. In this "pose" you will also need to manage to hammer a nail. Not very convenient, right? And the self-tapping screw has a magnetic cap, it is easily held on the drill bit of the screwdriver and easily enters the canvas.

Siding installation technology

We install siding panels ourselves

And so, we talked about how to fix the siding, now you can proceed with the installation of the canvas with your own hands and begin the insulation of the structure.

First of all, you need to talk about fixing the starting strip:

find the lowest point of the old cladding;
draw an even vertical line that will be 3-4 cm higher than the lowest mark;
fix the starting bar so that its upper edge is at the level of the drawn line, attach it with self-tapping screws.

Please note that it is very important not to start installing the siding until the starting rail has been installed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe veranda, log house or house, or in the specific place that you wanted to decorate.

During installation work, you must follow several rules, namely:

Facing and insulation with siding should be done by hand so that there are no barriers to its thermal expansion and contraction;
Do not install the panel very close to the surface of the walls of the veranda, house or log house.
Do not drive the screws too deep. This will not allow the surface to deform during sharp temperature fluctuations.
Drive nails or self-tapping screws into the middle of the oblong mounting hole, but not into the corners. The step with which it is best to drive in nails is 30-40 cm.
Cladding and insulation of the walls of the house, log house or veranda should start from the bottom, and then you need to slightly push the panel up until you hear the click of the “lock”.

We hope that after reading the article you no longer have questions regarding do-it-yourself siding fasteners.