Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation step by step. Instructions for installing a split system with your own hands. The principle of operation of the air conditioner, split system

Most of the inhabitants of our vast Motherland, one way or another, are faced with the problem of summer heat! Each of us understands that the best salvation from the heat in the apartment is a split system. The process of buying it is accompanied by two main questions - where to install air conditioning in the apartment and? Today I will talk about the most successful options for the location of the air conditioner.

When we are just planning the purchase of a "split", many do not even have a vague idea where it should be located in the apartment. For the first time we are thinking about where it is generally possible to put the device so that it works correctly and efficiently. Many people have two versions in their heads:

the first is the installation of one large air conditioner for the entire apartment (usually somewhere in the corridor);
the second version is the installation of one or more split systems in certain rooms.

I stick to the second option, when the "split" is calculated for one room. And even better when its power takes into account a small margin. Then the neighboring rooms can be partially provided with coolness.

Location of several air conditioners in the main rooms

This option of placing a "split" has 3 important advantages:

In the desired room (with closed doors) the temperature that is comfortable for you will be most accurately maintained. Precisely adjusting the temperature during sleep is VERY IMPORTANT for health, and not just for comfort.
If “conders” (c) are installed in the main rooms, then the whole apartment (including the corridor) will be provided with coolness, when it will be needed.
During the day, only those rooms in which you spend most of your time will be cooled. It makes no sense to "study" the whole apartment when you spend the whole day in one room. For example, when meeting guests, you can provide the whole apartment with coolness, and at night maintain the temperature only in the bedrooms.

Installation of one large air conditioner in the hallway

The option of installing an air conditioner in the corridor also has the right to life! The main advantage in such an installation is that it excludes the impact of a direct cold stream on people. But the BIG disadvantage is that it will be difficult to achieve the "correct" temperature in individual rooms (accurate temperature is very important for health). Each case of such installation must be considered separately. But note that:

choose the right power of the device;
take care of the reliable removal of condensate (the outlet of drainage into the sewer has its own characteristics);
supply power for a powerful air conditioner from the switchboard (options for "power" from sockets will no longer work);
take into account the weight of the blocks during installation;
take into account the entire route.

Basic rules for choosing the location of the air conditioner

In living rooms there are places where a person is most of the time. Let's call them "rest zones" of a person. These include primarily:

We are well aware that in most apartments it is difficult to find a place where the "conder" will not affect the "peace zone" of a person. But in any layout there is the most “harmless” position of the device.

There is one myth - some people imagine that the cold is concentrated at the location of the air conditioner (they say that the coolness will be only in front of the unit or in the place where it "blowing"). That's bullshit! If the doors and windows of the room are closed, the temperature will be evenly distributed throughout the room! No matter where in the room the indoor unit of the "split" is located. Only if the doors are open can you feel that the air-conditioned room is cooler than the hallway.

All air conditioners have the ability to adjust the direction of air flow. But you must understand that air is primarily a gas! It will not, like a stone, "fly" where you sent it (where the blinds turned). In any case, the flow of cold air will "scatter" around the room. OF COURSE, the movement of cold air will be felt more directly against the block.

If you need to cool the corridor too, then there is no need to put the block in front of the door. With the door open, the coolness will in any case “leave” the room. The location of the air conditioner strictly opposite the door can "play" only to a small extent (the entire air flow will not fly like a solid object in one direction).

Where is it better to install air conditioning in a two-room apartment

It is not uncommon to hear such a question. In part, I have already given the answer, expressing my opinion. Namely, I said that it is more efficient to install an air conditioner in a particular room, and not in the corridor. So, in which rooms is it better to install the device? I will give a few recommendations with which you can determine the placement of blocks for a specific case.

"Dvushka" often consists of three "living" rooms - a living room, a bedroom and a kitchen. For most of us, the apartment is primarily a place of rest. If so, then we determine where we rest and sleep the most. I believe that the bedroom in this regard should take precedence. Since any person spends almost a third of his life in a dream! If the apartment is also a place of work, then define for ourselves where we spend the most time.

We calculate the second priority room according to the same principle. If you find it difficult to choose, then I suggest staying in the living room (where we also have a lot of rest).

After we have determined the priorities for the rooms, WE CONSIDER YOUR FINANCIAL POSSIBILITIES AND WISHES. If a Are you planning to get by with an air conditioner?, then we put it according to your needs (I recommend in the bedroom).

If the budget allows, then a great solution would be to install "conde" in two main rooms (bedroom and living room, for example). And at the same time it is better to take into account a small margin of power. For example, if the living room and bedroom each have an area of 15 square meters, then you can put 2.7 kW in each of the "nine" (although the "seven" in terms of power of 2 kW would be quite suitable for each of the rooms!). This replacement will not cost much more, but in this situation, life-giving coolness will “reach” even into the corridor and into the kitchen.

If there is no money at all, then install air conditioners in each living room (bedroom, living room, kitchen).

Where to install air conditioning in the bedroom

In many apartments, the bedroom area is 10-14 square meters. Opposite the front door is usually a window. "Traditionally" in such a room there is a bed, opposite which there is a TV.

In this case, there are the following options for mounting the air conditioner (sometimes called "side mounting", since the hole in the wall is drilled to the side of the unit, and not under it):

on the wall with a TV (closer to the wall with a window);
on the wall where the head of the bed is located (closer to the wall with a window). If you are interested in a specific distance from the curtains, then read the article where I indicated.

If you choose between these two methods, then it is safer to put the indoor unit above the head of the bed (ceteris paribus). This is due to the fact that the cold flow from the block is less directed downward than in a straight line (if the block is placed in front of the bed, then there will be more likelihood of cold air entering the bed). But if a computer desk is located opposite the block, then you will have to choose the “lesser evil”.

An equally effective option is also possible - the location of the block "in the aisle" (between the foot of the bed and the TV). It is better to discuss this and other cases of placing the indoor unit on site with specialists. Since most of these options require the agreement of specific technical and financial issues.

Reading time ≈ 13 minutes

The microclimate in the house is not only convenient, but also good for your health - you can maintain different temperatures. But installing a split system with your own hands is of interest to many - it is cheaper to do the installation yourself than to invite masters, although this is not always correct. First of all, experts will do the installation according to the instructions, but if you are confident, you can do it yourself.

What is a split system

Split system before installation

To begin with, let's define what a split system is, so as not to get confused in the definitions - for some reason it is distinguished from a conventional air conditioner, and rightly so. There are several types of SLE:

On the wall 1.5-9.0 kW.
On the floor 4.0-13.0 kW.
On the ceiling 4.0-13.0 kW.
With channels 5.0-18.0 kW.
Cassette systems 5.0-14.0 kW.

How it works

The SCR consists of two parts - a compressor, which is usually placed outside under a window, and an indoor unit that supplies cold air to the room. The compressor contains freon, which cools this air - this air comes from the street (supply system). In addition to cooling, there is a solenoid in the indoor unit, which can also blow hot air.

outdoor unit

The outdoor unit is mounted on brackets

The outdoor unit is located in an open space - the facade of the house, an open balcony, a roof. In office buildings, the outdoor unit can be mounted on a flight of stairs, in a lobby or in a corridor. These two units are interconnected by a freon pipe, as well as a condensate drain pipe. There is also a compressor, a four-way valve, a receiver, a fan and a winter collector control system, which is driven by a capacitor motor. The four-way valve is connected from the indoor unit through the power cable coming from the unit in the apartment. There is also a compressor on the outdoor unit, which removes the noise in the room. The indoor unit is slightly noisy - it is 24-25 dB and this bothers some people.

Block in the apartment

Block in the apartment, fixed to the wall

The indoor unit can be located in any part of the room - ceiling, walls, floor (depending on the type of ACS). The system is controlled remotely (remote control) is required. Modern air conditioners are equipped with a filter to clean the air from smoke and / or dust. Heating and cooling of the room varies from 10 to 30⁰C. The remote control display has information on which you can adjust the system in the desired mode - this is air temperature, three degrees of discharge force and turbo mode. For domestic use, wall-mounted options are used, and floor and ceiling options in offices, enterprises, and public places.

The electronics of this unit controls all parameters:

Allows you to control using the remote control, fixes the desired temperature and air flow.
Records the temperature of the air that enters the evaporator and measures the temperature of the air in the room.
When the set temperature in the room is reached, the compressor turns off, and turns on when the maximum allowable conditions change by 3-5⁰C.
The temperature is maintained by adjusting the rotation of the fan in the indoor unit, as well as the rotation of the compressor. If the evaporator is turned off, a large amount of condensate will form in those nodes that are not designed for this. This may cause water to leak through the indoor unit into the room.
The remote control provides tongue control (blinds), which gives direction to the air flow.
Prevents premature start.
Controls the temperature of the block outside.
Follows a timer that can be set to a specific time.

Space heating

Modern air conditioners can heat the air that enters the room. This happens when the four-way valve is switched, which changes the direction of the air supply. It is controlled by a solenoid at a voltage of 220 V, which comes from the inside. During the heating function on the outdoor unit, it is formed, which must be discharged. You should not heat the SLE house at a negative temperature outside - this can lead to freezing and defrosting, which is tantamount to a breakdown. It is better to use heating at temperatures above 0⁰С.

Cooling in the cold season

The SLE has a winter set that allows air conditioning in closed-type rooms where there is intense heat release - server rooms, workshops, and the like. During cold air blowing, the outdoor unit heats up, so it cannot freeze. This kit includes a fan control controller - it turns it on in condenser mode during heating, and also heats the condensate drain pipe.

High temperatures

For R10A freon, there is a critical heat point - this is 72⁰C, therefore, the maximum outdoor temperature should be no more than 45-50⁰C. For R22 freon, the maximum block temperature is 96⁰C, therefore, the permissible ambient temperature is 65-70⁰C - this allows you to install such units in hot shops, attics and garages. Such high temperatures can be found in metal attics, MAAFs and other metal rooms.

When the temperature outside is very high, the unit works with pressure drops and more freon is required. This factor makes the compressor work more intensively and pump the maximum amount of freon, which leads to its electronics turning off. Conventional SCRs are designed for temperatures no higher than 40⁰C. If the air conditioner in the house or apartment is located on the sunny side, then it is recommended to install a visor on top when installing split systems with your own hands, which will protect the unit from the sun.

For non-standard operating modes, the capacity of the capillary channel is reduced, and this provides a significant pressure drop at the inlet and outlet with a smaller amount of freon pumped. Since there is less gas in the system, it is not liquid that passes through the capillary channel, but gas with liquid - it turns out that the circulation is significantly reduced and the air conditioner retains its ability to work in non-standard conditions. Under normal temperature conditions, such drops are harmful to the air conditioner, and it quickly fails.

Multi systems

Multi split system

If the ACS is equipped with several units, then it will already be a multi system - it means one unit outdoors and several units in the building. Such equipment is very convenient for offices, shops or a large residential building. It is noteworthy that in such a situation, the outdoor unit can be combined with several different systems, on the floor, not on the wall and on the ceiling. Of course, such units are more expensive - there is an additional controller to control the desired modes and compressors with fans.

Such systems come with one or more compressors. In the case of a single compressor, the SCR indoor unit transmits information to the outdoor part of the unit, which determines the operation mode of the compressor. Systems with several compressors usually have two or three units. In such a situation, a separate compressor, a separate four-way valve and a separate capillary tube are installed on each unit. The compressor of the outdoor unit detects the signals of all indoor units and sets the operation of the fan and compressor. Such air conditioners are both inverter and non-inverter.

Air conditioner care

Due to condensate, both the indoor and outdoor units become clogged within two to three years, so they need to be cleaned - inside this is done with hot steam, and outside they are washed with water. Thus, fungal mold is removed along with dust. Without cleaning the unit, its efficiency can drop by half, and sometimes even more. Especially a lot of dust accumulates on the outdoor unit due to cars and trees. The filters on top are of little help and serve more for advertising than cleaning.

air conditioner requirements

Video: Installation work

Do-it-yourself installation of a split system is, in fact, not difficult and you can watch the process on the video, but several factors should be taken into account:

In no case should the air conditioner be located near heating devices, for example, above a radiator - this greatly increases the consumption of electricity, which you have to pay for.
There should be no debris in the system, as it can damage the vacuum pump.
Boiling freon can evaporate even through a micro-slit, therefore, during installation, the unit should be checked for tightness.
The outdoor unit must be located lower than the indoor unit. Otherwise, it is fraught with an overexpenditure of electricity and a thermosyphon effect.
Heating the outer part of the SCR also causes an extra waste of electricity.
The drainage tube can only go down, without loops bent up. Such bends serve as a collection of debris and fungal mold.
Do-it-yourself installation of split systems without a vacuum pump does not lead to anything good - the compressor will drive freon, which will cause air overheating and oil deterioration, which will damage the compressor. Too expensive - it is often easier to buy a new one.

air split

There are two separate blocks: evaporative (in the apartment) and compressor-condensing (outside). Although modern units work not only to cool the air, but also to heat it, it turns out that freon condenses in the inside of the unit, and evaporation occurs in the outside, which is why they are called so - internal and external.

Toolbox

Installation of the air conditioner is best done during repair work in the house.

It is most convenient to carry out installation work during repairs in the apartment, since you have to drill holes in the wall, and this is a lot of dust. To install the unit, you will need tools such as:

with standard set of drills and hole cutter ø 50 mm. With this cutter, you will have to drill the main (bearing) wall for the output of tubes.
Magnet for detecting the presence of reinforcement. And in concrete walls, it is a must.
Bulgarian, but a pipe cutter is better for cutting pipes - be sure to blow the pipe after that so that there is no copper chips left.
To expand the pipes, you will need a scraper, since tightness cannot be achieved with improvised means. In addition, it is impossible to clean the ends with a file or needle file so that sawdust does not get into the middle.
Bicycle or car pump for leak control.
Vacuum pump - needed for evacuation before refueling the unit.
Ammeter-voltmeter (possibly a phase indicator) for connection to a network of ≈220 V.
Manometer for checking pressure.

Installation work

Bracket outdoors fastened with anchor dowels

The most difficult thing is to fix the brackets on the wall from the outside of the house - this is usually done below the window so that there is access to the outdoor unit. It should be fastened with anchor plastic dowels ø 14-16 mm - two pieces for each bracket. Some are mistaken and buy metal mollies, but there is an umbrella-type dowel and it will not hold in a solid wall. Such an installation can be done from a telescopic tower, but it will be expensive, so it's easier to bend over the window and drill holes, but first you need to make marks with a pencil. To prevent the hole from going astray, first drill with a thin drill ø 5-6 mm, and then take ø 14-16 mm

The outdoor block must be below the indoor

As a rule, it is not recommended to install the outdoor unit yourself without proper experience - it is dangerous not only for health, but also for life.

But if you have construction experience in high-altitude work, then you can mount it. You can, of course, install it on a balcony or loggia, if they are not glazed - if the unit is indoors, it will overheat. The most important thing is to fasten the brackets well, but if you are afraid of heights, then it’s better not to take on such work, but to invite a specialist - they have experience working at heights, so it’s better to pay, but not risk it.

But first you need to determine the place where the indoor unit will be located, in order to then install the outdoor unit relative to it. It is most convenient when they are nearby - you do not have to add copper pipes - they are expensive. Then you make a hole in the wall with a cutter, but if the walls are concrete, then it is best to punch the hole with a chisel so as not to break the crown on the wire.

Installing the Mounting Bar for the Indoor Unit

The mounting plate for fixing the air conditioner should be inserted strictly according to the level and fixed with plastic dowels. Here, anchors are no longer needed - you can get by with dowels ø 6 mm and self-tapping screws 90 mm long. I was not mistaken - it is 6 mm dowels that are needed for fastening so that the screw does not tear out of the wall. If the walls are soft, then you can drive two screws into one dowel - this is much stronger. Of course, it will be difficult to tighten two screws with a screwdriver, so it is better to use a screwdriver or an electric drill.

Assembly of pipelines

The tubes are cut with a meter excess so that there are reserves for bends. The tube must be bent very carefully so that it does not crack anywhere. Although wrinkles should also not be allowed - such a deformation will impede the flow of refrigerant, and this in turn will cause an overrun of electricity. The best thermal insulation is a pipe made of foamed polyurethane - it will last a very long time, but foam rubber will not last even one season. Flanges are put on the ends and only after that do the flaring. The threads on the flanges must be turned towards the end of the tube in order to screw them to the fittings. New air conditioners have fittings of different diameters, so it will be impossible to mix up the ends. But there are assembly instructions in the passport, so you can constantly peep.

For drainage, it is best to use metal-plastic ø 16 mm, since corrugated plastic quickly crumbles under the influence of precipitation and temperature changes. If a thread is not provided for drainage, then it can be connected with heat shrink by heating it with a soldering iron or over an open fire - with matches or a lighter.

In order to connect the indoor and outdoor units, a multi-core cable with a core cross section of not 1.5 mm is used - there are terminals with names. The names of the terminals may not match, and then you have to understand according to the instructions that are in the passport. The wire is also packed in a pipe made of foamed polyurethane, and then all communications can be wrapped with tape. This pipe is pushed into a 50 mm hole, which is pre-made in the wall.

To check the sealing, use distilled water heated to evaporation and with a solution of laundry soap (it can be grated). To continue, remove the nipple from the outlet and pump water from the pump - if bubbles appear on the thread, then tighten the nut slightly. After completion, the soap is wiped with a wet cloth or sponge. The nipple is put in place and air is pumped out with a vacuum pump, which will remove dust and moisture. This must be done for a long time of 40-60 minutes - the moisture will be removed along with the air. The system is pumped with freon from a cylinder through a pressure gauge - the required pressure is indicated in the passport.

Video: Installation work on installing a split system

Now it remains only to test the unit - this can be done from the remote control or the start button on the indoor unit. If testing does not start, you will have to call a specialist, since the guarantees will no longer be valid. When starting the test, the shutters should open and cold air should come out. Blinds are adjusted to the desired position from the remote control.

Conclusion

If something does not work out with the installation of a split system with your own hands, and this is usually an outdoor unit, then you will have to call the master or hire a telescopic tower. But this applies to multi-storey buildings - on the first floors and in the private sector, problems usually do not arise.

Installing an air conditioner is a very complex task that requires certain knowledge and sometimes special tools. In our article today, we will talk about how to install air conditioning at home yourself. There are various types of air conditioning systems, which include mobile and window models, as well as the so-called split systems. As part of our article, we will dwell in more detail on the sequence of actions when installing the last variety.

The process of installing a split system is quite complicated and is carried out in several steps. In this regard, all actions can be divided into three main stages, which include the following:

Works on the installation of the indoor unit;
Actions related to the installation of the outdoor unit;
Vacuuming.

Each of the stages will be considered by us in detail.

Step one: install the indoor unit

If you decide to install a mobile air conditioner at home, then you don’t have to worry about the installation process, you just need to put it in the right place. But with a split system you will have to work hard, since it consists of two blocks, each of which needs a separate installation. If we talk about the indoor unit, then a number of requirements are imposed on its installation. So, for example, it should be at some distance from the ceiling, which should not be less than ten centimeters.

The importance of the above requirement should be understood, since if it is ignored, the following consequences may occur:

his body will quickly become clogged with dust, and it will have to be cleaned almost every day;

dust will also settle on the surface of the ceiling. As a result, not the most beautiful dust spot will be obtained;

the system will not have enough air, and this will subsequently affect its efficiency.

Such an indentation from the wall is required so that it becomes possible to ensure a distance between the curtains and the device of at least ten centimeters. In conditions of a shorter distance, curtains or curtains will constantly flutter, which is also undesirable. Next, install the mounting plate, while it is necessary to adhere to the level. Previously, you should also equip the markup, which is performed using dowels and a puncher.

Further self-installation of the air conditioner involves making a through hole in the wall, which is required in order to lay a line and a drainage system there. For this purpose, it is required to take a drill, the diameter of which is forty-five millimeters, after which you can start making a hole. This tunnel should be designed in such a way that the slight slope required for condensate to flow through it is provided. Further actions will be related to the collection and connection of the route. First you need to measure the required length of the pipe and cut them. This will require the use of a pipe cutter. But it is better not to use a hacksaw for metal, since chips that have got inside will lead to compressor failure.

Next comes the connection of pipes - rolling is used. The quality of the connection that holds the refrigerant also depends on how well this operation is performed. Even before rolling, it is required to put the nut on the tube. This requirement is explained by the impossibility of such an action in the future. It is also important to tighten the nuts to the indoor unit as tightly as possible, this only improves the quality of the connection.

Connected pipes, electrical wiring, as well as the drainage system must be insulated and wrapped with tape. Next, the free trunk ends must be inserted into a previously made hole in the wall. As for the indoor unit itself, it is installed on a bar. At this stage, the installation stages of the air conditioner associated with its indoor unit can be considered completed. Now we move on to the next steps to install the outdoor unit.

Step two: install the outdoor unit

Solving the issue related to the competent installation of the air conditioning system, or rather its external unit, is associated with some risk. This is relevant in the case of high-altitude work. In such cases, insurance is mandatory.

As part of this stage, the first step is to install the brackets. The outdoor unit is in most cases mounted under the window. This decision about its location is explained by the fact that in this way it becomes possible to provide convenient maintenance and repair.

As for the location of the brackets, it is calculated in such a way that the external unit of the air conditioning system would be located below the level of the window sill.

After finishing the marking work, you can proceed to the stage of attaching the brackets to the wall. Due to the fact that the outdoor unit is characterized by a rather significant weight, the brackets must be fixed with maximum reliability. For this, long self-tapping screws are used, the diameter of which should not be less than twelve millimeters. After the installation of the brackets is completed, the unit itself should be lowered onto them directly. It is advisable to mount the block in tandem with an assistant, because due to the considerable mass there is a threat to drop the block.

Further, after installing the unit on the brackets, you will need to securely fasten it. But this must be done by securing all four screws. When these steps are completed, it will be possible to connect trunk elements to it. In this case, it is necessary to carry out all actions very carefully, since it is important not to confuse which of the tubes should be connected to where. In addition, even in the process of connecting them to the indoor unit, it is recommended to make appropriate marks. In all other respects, other actions are carried out similarly to the indoor unit of the air conditioning system.

Stage Three: Vacuuming

When deciding to install an air conditioner at home with your own hands, remember that vacuuming is mandatory. Such a process is a set of actions aimed at creating a vacuum in the tubes of the main line. Without these measures, it is impossible to ensure the operation of the air conditioner. Vacuuming is performed to remove dust and moisture from the pipes. This is done with a special pump connected to the system using a manometric manifold and flexible hoses.

Next, the pump is turned on and a port is opened on the outdoor unit. After the gauge needle goes into vacuum, close the port and turn off the pump. These steps will take no more than fifteen minutes to complete. It may take longer to carry out this operation, but this is not necessary. Do not rush to turn off the pump with a pressure gauge, as the arrow may change its position. So, for example, when it is raised, we can talk about the lack of tightness of the system. Therefore, check all connections in general and rolling in particular.

You can start the refrigerant only after making sure that everything is tight, and it does not matter where you decide to install the air conditioner. At the same time, it is better to leave the pressure gauges in their places. The first step is to open the tube responsible for the supply, then the suction tube, after which you can start fixing the freon pressure. It is also important not to confuse the above sequence of actions.

Next, the first launch of the system is performed, which will not happen immediately, you will have to wait for some time. Then you need to let it work for about fifteen minutes. This time is allotted for the complete distribution of freon through the tubes. Then control measurements of pressure are carried out, and the pump equipped with a pressure gauge is turned off. On this work on the installation of a split system can be considered completed.

Installation of a window air conditioner

In cases where you want to install a window air conditioner at home, the steps are somewhat different, since its design is significantly different from a split system. To do this, you will need to remove its front panel and remove the block located on the skid. After that, the housing should be installed with a slight slope towards the street. Then it is assembled in the reverse order and connected to the outlet, adjusting the required power.

installing an air conditioner with your own handsClimatic equipment is installed in advance, before the onset of heat. In some cases, to save money, an air conditioner is installed by hand. The main condition is to strictly adhere to the instructions, to carry out work in the recommended place. Incorrectly selected parts can cause damage to the climate control device.

The principle of operation of the air conditioner, split system

To form a general idea of the organization of the internal device, and before installing the air conditioner, we recommend that you consider the principle of operation of the system. Climatic consists of 2 equivalent blocks - compressor and evaporator. They are connected to each other by special adapters, branch pipes and tubes.

The evaporation unit is installed inside the dwelling, and the compressor unit is installed outside. High-performance and expensive models are equipped with one compressor and several indoor units.

High pressure refrigerant is sent to the evaporator section. Then there is an expansion of freon, its gradual boiling and vaporization. It is this cold vapor that absorbs the heat of the air. The air conditioning system works with the active formation of water condensate, which settles on a special radiator. At the final stage, water is discharged from the building through a special tube.

In the process of operation, the compressor pumps out the evaporation of freon. The pressure inside the unit is increased by a built-in pump. Gradually, under the influence of temperature, the refrigerant changes from a liquid state to a vapor state. A dense "fog" is sent to the condensate chamber for gradual cooling (a small fan is used for this purpose) and transition to a liquid state. Then the circle closes and the process loops.

The efficiency and duration of the functioning of the house, as well as the amount of electricity consumed by the appliance, are determined by the intensity of operation of the unit, the climatic features of the region. If there is a heater in the room near the climate control device, the level of electricity consumed increases, which is fraught with the failure of the device. Even ordinary dust can provoke a breakdown. The room is scheduled for regular wet cleaning.

Couplings and joints require sealing without fail in order to level the likelihood of freon or other refrigerant evaporation. Install the outdoor unit of the air conditioner so that it is level below the inside of the unit. The outdoor unit is located in a dark place, away from sunlight.

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation: tools - a complete list

Installation of air conditioning systems is a technically complex, responsible, and therefore expensive event. In this matter, all aspects are important - experience, practical skills, theoretical base and the availability of the necessary tool. These factors determine the speed and quality of installation. Let's analyze the feasibility of using the tools that come with the standard installation kit.

Taking into account the scope of their application, they are divided into several functional groups.

power tool

Without a power tool, installing an air conditioner with your own hands is simply impossible. We are not talking about any specialized solutions:

perforator;
"Bulgarian";
drill.

A powerful puncher is chosen so that it can easily make a through hole in the wall through which a line is laid between the indoor and outdoor units. Low-power combined electric drills, where only the function of a hammer drill is provided, are indispensable in this case. They are not able to drill through brickwork.

Before you install the air conditioner yourself, you should make sure that you have all the necessary tools.

For a concrete wall, you will additionally need a grinder to remove metal reinforcement, as well as other consumables - discs, drills, concrete bits.

Measuring tool

Installation of a window air conditioner is carried out with the obligatory control of the horizontal level. You can use markers, marking pencils, building or laser level. You will also need a number of additional equipment. Air conditioners with installation cannot be reliably and efficiently fixed without additional technical means.

Specialized equipment

Specialized tools are necessary for the high-quality and efficient functioning of climate equipment. Copper pipe soldering tools, industrial type vacuum cleaner and vacuum pump.

Devices for connecting copper pipes. We are talking about low temperature welding. It is carried out using a special solder and a gas burner. A pipe cutter is used to cut them. It is better to refuse an ordinary hacksaw for cutting metal, since small chips will certainly remain in the line, which is fraught with damage to the climate device. To remove the chamfer, use a rimmer, rolling. The main turns are formed by a pipe bender.
An industrial vacuum cleaner is used to suck up dust and small debris. Under no circumstances should they fall into the appliance.
Vacuum pump. The unit dries up the line. If you follow the installation rules, then this procedure is mandatory, without it the efficiency of the air conditioner will be nominal.

The listed equipment for installation is basic. You can not do without additional consumables - pliers, drywall, stepladders, metal scissors, screwdrivers. The exact list is determined by the owner, taking into account specific conditions.

Do-it-yourself air conditioner installation: step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself installation of an air conditioner begins only after the acquisition and preparation of the necessary equipment, tools and climatic equipment. First of all, the outdoor unit is fixed on the outer wall, after which internal work is carried out.

At all stages, it is extremely important to observe safety precautions, especially when it comes to skyscrapers. Installation of the outdoor unit is one of the most important and crucial stages.

Outdoor unit fixing

Installing a window in general, and its outer part, in particular, on the walls of country houses is not accompanied by any difficulties. But in the case of multi-apartment buildings, not everything is so simple, the place is selected with great care. When deciding where to install the air conditioner, pay attention to areas with minimal natural light.

There are several basic rules:

The outdoor unit should not spoil the view from the window to the neighbors in the apartment.
A small tube is used to drain condensate.
The climatic device is placed in such a way that it is within reach, because. equipment requires periodic maintenance.

In 90% of cases, the block is fixed at the north or east side, under the window or at the bottom of the balcony. These are the unwritten rules for installing an air conditioner, which are mandatory among professionals. If they are observed, it will not be difficult to reach the outside of the climate control device.

The attachment points of the brackets are checked with a building level, and then holes are prepared in the wall. Anchor bolts are used for secure fixation.
To connect the functional blocks, an 80 mm through hole is made. If possible, it is better to drill a hole between the bricks, along the seam.

According to the previously prepared markings, metal brackets are installed, screwing the bolts as securely as possible. The standard installation of the air conditioner is carried out in such a way that a distance of 10 cm is maintained between the climatic unit and the outer wall. The gaps are closed at the final stage, after connecting the device.

Installing the indoor unit

Do-it-yourself air conditioning installation indoors, where to start? First of all, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that it is strictly forbidden to mount the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, above heaters or batteries - all these devices often cause failure of the block processor.

Before installing the air conditioner, you should carefully check the wall for laying heating, water pipes, and electrical wiring in it.

The fastening of a metal plate from standard components for the installation of air conditioners begins only if the work area is completely free: the distance from the ceiling is from 10 cm, from the corner of the walls - at least 5 cm. Two points are connected with a meter and mark a horizontal line. The indoor unit is mounted on a fixed metal plate.

The next stage in the installation of the air conditioner, or to be more precise, its indoor unit, is the preparation of holes in the wall for connecting communication hoses, electrical wiring, and pipes for draining liquid condensate. The interior space should be sufficient for free placement of all elements in the wall.

Independent installation of the air conditioner is not possible without separate wiring for the indoor unit. For this, wiring with a cross section of at least 1.5 square meters is suitable. mm. It is mandatory to connect a separate machine for the climate control device. Upon completion of the wiring, it is connected to the input of the shield (the indicator can accurately determine the "phase" and "neutral" wire).

The terminals of the outdoor and indoor units are connected to each other with multi-core wiring (it is pushed into the hole prepared in the wall). The installation scheme is clearly described in the instructions that come with each climate control device. When installing air conditioners on your own at home, it is extremely important that the terminals by name match the wires themselves. Otherwise, there is a danger of a short circuit.

Pipe laying instructions

A standard air conditioner installation kit includes several copper pipes. They are carefully cut with a margin of 1 meter for bends. The tubes are prepared with a special tool - a pipe bender, when using it, the metal does not crack, no dents form. Proper preparation includes covering the pipes with polyurethane foam hoses that act as thermal insulation.

Special threaded flanges are put on the ends of the tube. The next stage of installation work is high-quality flaring of copper tubes. This process is carried out extremely carefully in order to eliminate the risk of grooves and microcracks. The nut should fit onto the rolling without any problems. As for tightening, it is performed with a special torque wrench.

Do-it-yourself installation of the air conditioner continues: pipelines are attached to the fittings. It is impossible to confuse anything, because. copper pipes have different cross-sections and diameters. The flanges are securely screwed onto the fittings, while the connection must be extremely tight, but at the same time, the tube should not be pinched or damaged.

At the final stage, the installation of air conditioning systems comes down to connecting a plastic pipe to a reinforced housing. For reliable fastening, use a heat-shrinkable tube from the delivery set. It is better to put a drainage tube at a maximum distance from the base of the wall.

Installation and installation of air conditioners will be incomplete without placing pipes in a special hole made in the wall. There they are carefully and extremely accurately aligned. Outside, the outlet and underwater pipes are fixed with clamps for greater reliability. An electrical wire is placed near them for connection to the outdoor unit.

In the room, the holes are blown out with mounting foam, as an alternative, they are filled with liquid silicone. Installing an air conditioner on a balcony and in a house involves checking the structure for leaks with a soap solution or a bicycle pump. Soap solution is washed with a sponge or cloth. If defects are found, the thread is tightened tighter.

Vacuuming the air exchange system

The correct installation of the air conditioner with your own hands is described above. The owner should be aware that to remove moisture, dust and the smallest particles from the climate device, the system is evacuated. It is performed upon completion of the final and high-quality sealing of the joints, because it is impossible to get rid of the air completely. The air conditioner with the installation is connected to a vacuum pump, air pumping takes about 1 hour.

Freon or other refrigerant is pumped into the system. The tank on the balcony is filled with a pressure gauge or adapter connected, since it is necessary to strictly control the pressure in the system. After preparing the air conditioner, a special automatic disconnector turns on independently, and the system goes into test mode. With uniform and efficient air circulation, the hole in the wall is sealed with mounting foam, followed by decor.

Installation of industrial air conditioners is carried out exclusively by professionals, because these are expensive climatic complexes for the adjustment of which specialized equipment is required. Spare parts are included in the standard package, you do not have to buy anything in addition.

Now you know how to install the air conditioner yourself and in what sequence to perform the corresponding work.

Installing an air conditioner with your own hands: the secrets of professionals

The installation scheme of window air conditioners provides for the possibility of installation in the winter. That's just have to be content with not too comfortable conditions. Water or snow must not get into the line. It is better to install and pump in the refrigerant at positive temperatures outside the window (at sub-zero temperatures, the stuffing box often fails, since it is rubber).

To install air conditioners, it is not at all necessary to evacuate the system. The nut is not completely screwed to the copper tube, then the control valve located at the thick tube opens slightly. Under pressure, the air will be forced out by freon, and it will be necessary to quickly tighten the nut.

This method is incorrect, since the quality and sealing of the system cannot be verified. Installation of industrial air conditioners using this technology is not carried out.

Below is a detailed video instruction, which demonstrates the main stages of installing climate systems with your own hands.

The technical name of the air conditioner is a split system (from the English word "separate"). It consists of an air blowing outdoor unit and an evaporative indoor unit. To cool the air in the room, you need to perform not only installation work, but also connect the air conditioner to the electrical network. The features of this process depend on the power of the device.

The electrical circuit of an air conditioner for consumer services is different from connecting a three-phase device, which is used in large offices for various purposes, business centers, supermarkets.

It must be remembered that the electrical installation is carried out in accordance with the Rules for the installation of installations and relevant regulations.

To connect the units to the mains, you should carefully prepare. For this you should:

carefully read the diagrams and specifications for the components and materials of the device;
inspect the existing power supply system, including the location and cross-section of incoming cables;
test the intended route with a detector for the absence of internal electrical wiring and metal elements of building structures;
analyze the composition of the walls, on the surface or inside which electrical work will be performed.

Connecting the air conditioning system is impossible if there is old aluminum wiring in the house and there is no grounding.

Direct cable laying must be carried out taking into account the following requirements:

junction box, switch, socket for domestic air conditioning are located in an accessible place;
the socket is installed at a distance of at least 50 cm from the floor and grounded metal elements (batteries, water and heat supply pipes);
the laying of the wire goes only horizontally and vertically;
with horizontal laying recede:

- from the cornice 5-10 cm,

- from the ceiling - 15 cm,

- from the plinth - 15-20 cm;

between the vertically stretched wire and corners, as well as window and door openings, there must be at least 10 cm;
laying parallel to gas pipes is carried out at a distance of 1 m from them;
electric wire is protected from heating pipes with insulation.

In addition, the following rules for connecting devices to the mains must be observed:

It is strictly forbidden to connect the wires by twisting. Build-up is carried out using terminal blocks or bolts;
it is not allowed to connect a wire made of aluminum and copper due to their different electrical conductivity (for a copper cable, this figure is one and a half times higher).

External wiring

If the method of laying on the wall surface is chosen, then the cables are fixed every 50-60 cm with plastic clamps, which, in turn, are fixed on the wall with screws. When using boxes in which the wire is laid, they are fixed with glue or screws.

Internal wiring

Cables hidden in the wall are laid in plastic corrugated pipes, having previously made a recess (strobe) of the required length. Usually the corrugated pipe is fixed inside the wall with clamps. If the depth of the strobe is 2 cm or more, then it is allowed to perform work without a corrugated pipe.

Wires must not be laid in bundles and at a distance of less than 3 mm from each other.

Connecting and connecting the interconnect cables of the air conditioner with your own hands

After installing the air conditioner, it is necessary to lay an interconnect cable from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit, and stretch the other wire from the indoor unit to the electrical system terminals. An interconnect cable is used mainly with 4-5 cores of different colors to prevent errors in connecting both blocks. The cross section is selected 2.5 mm 2.

The essence of the connection in general terms is as follows:

remove the front panel and the protective cover of the unit;
stretch the cable and place it on the side of the module;
strip the ends of the wires, insert into the terminals and tighten with screws;
fix the cable at the outlet of the unit;
cover the module.

After connecting both units, you should carefully check the correctness of the work performed. Next comes the testing of the assembled circuit and a short-term start-up of the system.

Otherwise, the scheme for connecting the air conditioner to the household electrical network is individual for each model, as well as in the case of powerful three-phase split systems. In this regard, the connection details should be specified in the attached instructions.

How to connect the air conditioner to the mains

There are two common ways to connect an air conditioner to mains power:

through a socket for single-phase household appliances;
from a separate line mainly for industrial devices.

with socket

Powering a split system using a plug and socket is the simplest way that does not require preparatory electrical work. This option is chosen for air conditioners built into the window, low power systems up to 4 kW, as well as for temporary use. It must be remembered that the outlet for household air conditioning must be strictly individual.

The connection can only be made if there is experience in electrical work with household appliances. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

prepare materials and tools;
study the diagrams in the instructions;
lay and connect interconnect cables (this was described above);
install an outlet.

Before a test run of a split system, you need to check the circuit for correct connection.

The socket must be with copper wires and connected to the shield in accordance with all electrical safety rules.

Direct network connection

A separate power line is best suited for a powerful split system. In this case, you need to make sure that it is possible to connect additional equipment to the electrical panel (necessarily grounded). The option of direct connection to the network does not load the working lines of the network: the power is supplied directly to the indoor unit of the air conditioner.

The cable is laid along the prepared strobe in the wall or in a box along the wall surface. To the shield, the cable is pulled through the machine with the calculated power, which will be discussed in detail in the next subsection. The cross section of the wire will depend on the power of the device and the distance of its location from the shield.

The connection instruction otherwise repeats the first method. This method allows you to install the air conditioner anywhere in the house.

What cable is needed to connect a split system

The wire for the air conditioner must be made of electrical copper and three-core (phase, zero, protection). For low-power split systems less than 3 kW, a cross section of 1.5 mm 2 is sufficient, with a power of 3-5 kW, a cross section of 2.5 mm 2 is required. Air conditioning units up to 8 kW are connected with a 4 mm cable.

A reliable power cable of the VVG brand, which has a standard PVC insulation, is widely used. Its service life reaches 30 years. Marking is read by special symbols. The first two letters "B" stand for external and internal insulation made of polyvinyl chloride. "G" has the designation of the lack of armor.

The VVG cable under the air conditioner must be laid in such a way as to ensure not only safety, but also aesthetics. For communications hidden in the wall, a flat cable VVG-P is convenient. In walls covered with drywall, the wire is laid in a corrugated pipe. In this case, it is better to use VVG ng, which ensures stable incombustibility of the shell.

Do I need a circuit breaker or RCD

Protection of electrical communications in buildings from short circuits and overloads is carried out by automatic switches. Safety for human health and life from a possible current leakage is carried out by a residual current device (RCD). This low-voltage device is not protected from overcurrents, so it is installed together with the machine. There are also differential circuit breakers, which include an RCD and an automaton.

What is more rational to install: a difautomatic device or an RCD with an automatic device? So, the differential switch will take two module-places on the shield (the more expensive ones will take one), and the RCD and the machine will take three. To save space on the switchboard, of course, preference is given to the circuit breaker.

As for electrical work, installing a difautomatic is somewhat easier than linking a pair of RCDs plus an automatic.

Malfunctions in electrical networks are more convenient to diagnose in the presence of an RCD. In this case, each of the devices works independently of each other. The differential switch will not be able to identify the specific cause of the failure, as it shows the diagnosis without the modules tripping. Here it is necessary to analyze each diagnosis separately.

If we talk about repairs, then in a pair of RCDs and a circuit breaker, one failed element is replaced. This is much more economical than changing the difavtomat completely.

Installing an RCD with a machine will be cheaper by 1000 rubles than a differential circuit breaker. However, experts advise choosing the second option when laying one line, which, along with reliability, saves space on the shield. A socket for a medium-power household air conditioner is also installed with an automatic machine.

When connecting several air conditioners or other household appliances, the advantage is on the side of the RCD, which simultaneously serves 2-3 lines.

Connecting the split system to the network must be carried out carefully and accurately. If there is no confidence in the knowledge of electrical engineering and sufficient experience, then you should turn to the help of professionals.