Step-by-step installation of the drainage system. Roof drainage systems. Compliance with temperature conditions during installation

To organize the drainage of water from the roofs of houses, various drainage systems are used, which are a structurally articulated set of elements that protect the basement and outer walls from waterlogging. In addition to performing a protective function, modern drainage systems allow you to decorate the house and diversify its design. In this article, we will show you how to attach the gutter to the roof and wall.

For reliable fastening to the structure of all parts of the drainage system, special fasteners are used.

Types of fasteners

For fastening gutters, the following types of fasteners are used:

Brackets. Allows you to fix the gutters. The size and shape of the brackets depends on the shape and dimensions of the gutters used.
Clamps. They are fixed to the walls and allow the drain pipe to be fixed. Different clamps are used for different types of walls (wood and brick). The shape and size of the clamps depends on the type of drain pipes used. The most commonly used clamps are metal, fastened with one, moreover, a long piece of hardware. Clamps made of plastic have 2 attachment points.

The ways

Methods for attaching gutters

To fix the gutters, brackets are used, which are mounted in the following ways:

On the frontal board. This method is used when the installation of the roof is completely completed. This is the only way to fix the brackets without additional dismantling of already installed roof elements.
On the rafter legs. In the absence of a so-called frontal board, the brackets are attached to the rafter legs.
To the roof sheathing. In this case, special elongated clamps are used, which are fixed at two attachment points and make it possible to securely fix the brackets to the mounted roof lathing.

Self-tapping screws are used when mounting the brackets.

Methods for fixing drain pipes

To secure the drain pipes, clamps are used, during the installation of which the following should be taken into account:

To ensure a reliable connection, the fixing depth of the hardware must be more than 60 mm, while it must go into the wall, and not into the insulation.
It is necessary to provide a certain distance from the facade wall to the drain pipe.
After fixing the downpipe in the clamp, it should not over-compress it. This is especially important in the case of using PVC pipes that change their size due to temperature fluctuations, which can lead to cracks and destruction.

Installation

If you do not have the desire and the necessary skills to install the drainage system on your own, then in this case it is better to involve specialists. Considering that this type of installation is a fairly simple task, you can decide on an independent installation of the roof drainage system. The presence of an assistant will greatly facilitate the installation process, but, in extreme cases, the work can be done alone.

To carry out installation work, in addition to the stairs, you will need a set of tools:

building level;
roulette;
plumb line;
construction cord;
ruler-square;
hacksaw for metal.

Installation of gutters

The position of the gutters relative to the roof overhang should be as follows:

the overhang should protrude 25-65% relative to the edge of the drain closest to the house;
in this case, the far edge of the drain should be below the visual plane of the roof (for an undulating roof, the plane is determined by the lower wave).

For high-quality drainage of water, it is required to provide a slope of the gutter in the direction of the drain, amounting to 0.2-0.3%.

Installation sequence:

Mark and attach the outermost two brackets (first and last) taking into account the required slope.
Pull the construction cord between the first and last brackets. This will make it easy to mark the installation locations of the remaining brackets.
Install the remaining intermediate brackets (in manufacturer's recommended increments).
Attach the gutter funnel (along the line of the cord).
Install the gutters. Install blanking plugs where necessary. If fitted, install them in the drain funnels.

Installation of drain pipes

Manufactured in compliance with the following rules:

Installation of pipes is carried out in the direction from bottom to top.
For the hardware on which the clamps will be fastened, it is necessary to drill holes of the appropriate diameter.
The step of installing the clamps is 1.8 meters.
Each pipe must be secured with a hotel clamp, with several clamps installed on long pipes (according to the recommended pitch).
The lower pipe is taken out into the storm sewer, and in its absence, the lower elbow is mounted.
The top pipe will connect to the funnel.

A properly selected and reliably fixed drainage system will provide full protection of your home from waterlogging of the walls and basement, decorate and preserve the appearance of the building for many years.

Video

Find out how to install a gutter system using the example of installing a plastic gutter:

PVC drainage systems are much lighter and more practical than outdated metal options. Plastic kits are much easier to work with. Despite the general installation rules with the previous varieties, they do not require labor efforts commensurate in severity.

True, it is impossible to perform a successful installation of a roof drain with your own hands without taking into account the specific qualities of polymer products. Let's figure out what an independent installer of PVC drainage systems should know and observe.

Gutters made of PVC elements are structurally little different from metal predecessors and prototypes. The kits produced by the industry include similar parts from which horizontal and vertical branches of systems are mounted. Assembly and installation is carried out in an equal number of stages and in a similar sequence.

However, in the manufacture and installation of gutter "constructors" made of PVC, the specific property of products with a polymer base is strictly taken into account. This is a characteristic dimensional instability that manifests itself when the temperature background changes. Plastic parts are able to grow in a linear direction when heated and return to their previous geometric boundaries when cooled.

The gutter intended for outdoor use will naturally be cooled in winter and heated in hot summer. Following temperature fluctuations, it will lengthen, then shorten. It is difficult and unnecessary to interfere with the linear movements inherent in polymers. You just need to adapt to them. Those. take into account the specified qualities when designing and assembling the system.

For the construction of PVC drainage circuits, special compensating and connecting parts are produced. They allow the main elements of the system to lengthen and shorten without deformation and damage the number of cycles promised by the manufacturer. Their device takes into account the possibility of some movement with a subsequent return to its original place.

In addition to the described feature, polymer products have another important quality that must be taken into account when attaching a PVC drain to the roof. This is a tendency to deformation and to sagging in long sections that do not have support under them.

In order for the rather flexible plastic gutters not to sag, the step of installing the holders under them cannot exceed 60 cm. Otherwise, the horizontal sections between the brackets will bend under the weight of precipitation and from their own weight. Dirt will accumulate in the deflections and water will stagnate, which, in case of frost, can simply rupture the polymer gutter.

Stages of assembly and installation of the drainage system

The construction of a drain from PVC elements is carried out in a clear sequence. In general terms, the algorithm for the construction of the drainage circuit includes the following types of work:

Design. Drawing up a simple diagram with the selection of the optimal size of the system and the calculation of the number of main parts required for the device and fasteners.
Assembly and installation of the water intake part. Among them are gutters and funnels that receive atmospheric precipitation, collecting them from the roof and directing them to the downpipes.
Assembly and installation of the plumbing part. Those. drainpipes directing an organized flow to a specific section of the blind area or to the storm sewer.

The device of the drain is carried out exclusively in the order "top-down". This means that the installation of water inlets is carried out first, then the device and connection of the drainpipes. Strict adherence to the successive stages is dictated by the technological features of the system and the technical characteristics of the material used in its production.

Rigorous design rules

In the development of the project for the device of the drain, it is necessary to comply with the technological requirements that ensure the normal operation of the circuit and the unhindered drainage of atmospheric water. To do this, you should deal with the following issues in advance, these are:

Optimal gutter configuration... Gable roofs are traditionally equipped with two separate gutters, equipped with a continuous loop of gutters arranged around the perimeter. In the construction of the latter, corner fittings will be required.
Number of risers... Every 12 m of polymer gutter should be equipped with one riser. If the length of the gutter, usually oriented to the length of the eaves, is more than 12 m, two risers with conventional water intake funnels and also a compensating funnel will be required.
Use of compensating funnels... They are used in several cases: a) when constructing gutters with a length of more than 12 m, b) with technical obstacles to expansion, for example, closely spaced walls of neighboring buildings, c) when installing a closed drainage system along the perimeter of the roof.
Choice of gutter holders... Long or short hook brackets are used for installation. The long ones are attached to the lathing before the covering is laid, the short ones are fixed on the frontal board at any time, including after the roof has been installed.
Compliance with the slope of the gutters... Depending on the brand of the system, the slope recommended by the manufacturer is indicated from 2 to 5 mm, distributed per 1 linear m of the water intake gutter. The slope is formed towards the drainage funnel by installing brackets with an offset in height.

It is extremely important, even in the design process, to determine the location of the risers. They should not spoil the exterior composition. The best option for installing them in the corners of the building. However, it is quite possible to place it in a niche created by a bay window or in the middle of a wall, if it is more convenient to make a receiving point for a storm sewer there.

If the discharge of atmospheric water is planned to the blind area, then you just need to try to remove the risers from the nearby pedestrian paths, ventilation vents of the foundation, entrances to basements.

For the designers of the drainage system, solving the problem with the location of the drainpipes will be somewhat more difficult. It is imperative that vertical drainage branches be timed to the supporting frame of the frame, but fastening to the private is also permissible. By analogy, the masters who install a system for a house with siding should do the same.

The required number of parts for the construction of the drainage system should be calculated individually. In private construction, they are now trying to get away from standard design, and at the same time from roofs that are similar in design. However, there is a calculation template that will give you an idea of \u200b\u200bhow the calculations are performed.

Using an extremely simple scheme, a gutter for a gable roof with slopes up to 12 m in length is calculated. Suppose that in our case this is exactly the case, then you will need:

Gutters. You need to buy them by the footage according to the lengths of the cornices. Nothing will interfere with the linear thermal expansion of the gutters, therefore, the 2.5 mm put on the expansion compensation from each edge can be ignored.
Gutter connectors. If we consider that their length is 3 m, then for each line of 12 m, 3 connecting elements will be required.
Two funnels. One for each gutter.
Brackets. The number of hooks is calculated by elementary dividing the length of the cornice into equal segments, each of which is up to 60 cm. Before dividing, 5 cm recede from both edges of the cornice.
Additional brackets. For the funnel located near the corner of the house, one additional holder is required, for the funnel in the center of the wall - two.
Four gutter plugs. A pair for each branch.
Two upper and two lower bends for the construction of the outlet of the risers.
Two pipe lengths for connecting the elbows. They are used if the width of the eaves overhang exceeds 25 cm. The dimensions of the segments are determined in fact at the work site, and cutting is done there. If the eaves are less than 25 cm, the knees are simply attached to each other.
Riser pipes. Determined by the distance from the eaves to the ground, minus the lengths of the drain, drain, and another 20 - 40 cm - this is the indent from the earth's surface.
Riser brackets. Two are required: one is installed near the lower knee, the second near the drain from the drainpipe. The rest are installed near each connection of the drainpipes, but at least every 1.5 m.

Elements of the drainage system for a house with an attic are calculated in a similar way. The same applies if the drain is arranged for multi-tiered pitched structures, but the calculations are carried out for each slope separately.

But the calculation of the number of parts and fasteners for a half-hip and will be significantly more difficult. Because for their arrangement, you will need at least four corner pieces and two compensating connectors. The principle of using expansion funnels and connectors is the same as for linear individual sections. However, each closed loop is equipped with details to compensate for movements, regardless of the length of the largest cornice.

At the design and calculation stage, you need to decide on the diameter of the future system. Parts for collecting gutters are available in several standard sizes to ensure the removal of atmospheric water in the required volume without overflowing. Accurate selection of the size at the same time will eliminate the acquisition of an unnecessarily large structure, which will look cumbersome and cost more than a suitable option.

According to the technological recommendations, drains from 1 m² of the roof should take 1.5 cm² of the cross-section of the downpipe. This is an averaged conditional coefficient for our middle band. In the southern regions, this figure is 1.5 times larger.

Competent selection of the standard size of the prefabricated drainage structure begins with determining the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof processed by one funnel with a riser connected to it. For example, by calculating the area of \u200b\u200bthe ramp from our example.

The area of \u200b\u200bthe slope will need to be divided by 1.5, which ultimately will allow us to obtain the calculated value of the cross-section of the downpipe pipe. According to this value, as a rule, rounded slightly upwards, it is necessary to select the optimal size of the drain.

In practice, the area of \u200b\u200bthe slope above a private house is rarely more than 80 m². Therefore, they do not bother too much with the calculations, but on average they take the Ø of pipes for the riser 100 mm with deviations in both directions for roofs of a larger and smaller area.

Construction of the water intake part

Let us analyze the process of assembling and installing a PVC drainage system using a specific example. According to the example given, the gutter is installed after the covering has been laid using long metal gutter brackets. Because cement tiles are laid on the roof, that is, it is possible to banally remove the bottom row, slightly lifting the tiles laid on top.

Suppose that we will equip two separate slopes of a gable structure. The length of the slope along the cornice is 12 m, the width of the pediment overhangs is 50 cm. We will arrange the funnel so that the riser connected to it runs 10 cm from the corner of the building. To do this, we subtract the width of the pediment overhang 50 cm from the edge of the cornice and these same 10 cm.

The first step is to install the long brackets:

Let's do a preliminary fitting. Attach the extreme holder to the place of the forthcoming installation. At the same time, we will install a rule or a regular rail directly on the ramp. There should be 2 cm between the rule and the folded part of the hook.
Mark the bend point. In addition to the above condition, there is one more thing: the edge of the roof covering must overlap the gutter by at least a third. As soon as we have found a point that meets both conditions, we put a mark on the bracket leg.
We find the slope to the drainage funnel. If, for example, a running meter of a cornice should be inclined by 3 mm, multiply them by 12 m, we get 36 mm. This is the difference in the bend height of the extreme hooks. If, due to the large width of the gable overhang, the funnel is almost a meter away from the edge, then 33 mm will be enough for the slope.
We draw a fold line. To do this, we lay out the brackets in the amount required for arranging one slope in a row and draw an inclined line on their legs. The point of the farthest hook from the funnel should be 3.6 cm higher than the point of the chute holder next to the funnel.
We number the hooks that have passed the markup.
We carry out bending of the gutter holders. In this case, it is better to use a special bending device to optimize accuracy. In the absence of it, you can bend it with the help of a vice, trying not to damage the anti-corrosion shell.
We attach the two outer brackets to the crate. The outermost holders should be 15 cm away from the edge of the roof.
We stretch one or two control lines between them. One must necessarily indicate the bottom, the second is optionally used to indicate the top point of the hooks, for example.
We set ordinary hooks according to the distance between them and the lines indicated by the fishing line.

The most crucial stage has been completed, now you need to prepare the gutters and funnel for installation. To do this, we try again, but already that part of the gutter, to which the drainpipe will be attached through the funnel. We put a plastic funnel on the gutter to find the exact place to drill a hole for it.

We outline the outline of the hole with a marker, without removing the funnel. Then, according to the mark, we drill a hole in the gutter using a suitable bit. You can form a hole for the funnel with a hacksaw, making two opposite saws. The edges of the cuts or drilled holes must be cleaned with sandpaper.

We will install the funnel, as it should be, on the chute and fix it with the help of its snap-on sides. Before installation, we apply glue with a strip of about 5 mm to the inside of the funnel around the nozzle. Two similar stripes are applied around the hole. If we use a compensating funnel, then we install it according to the markings on the inside, related to the atmospheric temperature on the day of installation.

We begin the installation of the gutter on the brackets with a section with a funnel. For splicing the parts of the gutters with each other, we use connectors, on the edges of which from the inside, as well as to the edges of the connected gutters from the outside, glue is also applied in strips of 5 mm.

We install and connect all the parts of the gutter to the brackets, then we attach the plugs, which we have every right to install before assembling the gutters. An adhesive composition is also applied to the inner sides of the plugs before installation.

Downpipe device

The construction of the vertical part of the system begins with the assembly of the transition from the horizontal part of the drain to the vertical riser. For roofs with narrow cornices up to 25 cm, it is assembled by connecting the upper and lower elbows. Owners of structures with wide eaves will have to overcome a wider scope of work.

Let's join their ranks to study the next stage in the construction of the drain:

Attach the upper elbow to the funnel pipe by applying a strip of glue to it along the connection line at a distance of about 1 cm.
We carry out another fitting. We apply the lower elbow to the installation site on the wall. Measure the distance between the knees with a ruler. We mark the position of the lower knee.
We determine the real length of the connecting segment by adding to the distance between the knees the height of the upper bend branch pipe, on which the segment will be worn, and the height of the counter element of the lower bend.
We cut out the connecting segment according to the obtained dimensions. We clean up the slice.
Assemble the transition and mark the point of the upper clamp for the downspout. She should be right below the lower knee. Mark the attachment point and again separate the lower elbow and connecting pipe from the upper elbow.
We install the clamp, fixing it as it should be, according to the technical rules, fix it on the wall from a specific type of building material.
We assemble the transition, now fixing its components with glue. Apply the adhesive in strips of 5 mm at a distance of about 1 cm from the edges.
We mark the installation points of the clamps for the downpipe, not forgetting that the lowest one should be located above the drain. Polymer drain pipes are connected by couplings, under each of which a clamp must be installed.
We attach the details of the riser, moving from top to bottom. We connect with couplings, leaving 1 - 1.5 cm in the sockets for free linear expansion of the pipes.
We tighten the clamps of the riser not too tightly, the pipes should still be able to slightly move up / down.
We attach the drain to the lower pipe with glue. If you wish, the drain can be cut from above with a hacksaw.

If it is planned to drain rainwater into a storm sewer, it is not necessary to connect a drain to the riser. In such cases, the pipe can end directly above the drainage gutter at a distance of 5-10 cm from its surface.

To prevent blockages of the system from above, it is completely recommended to cover the gutter with a grid or at least install protective crab-shaped nets on the funnels.

Video about the rules for the construction of PVC gutters

A visual demonstration of the assembly and fastening of the plastic gutter will help you to quickly and correctly complete the installation:

Observing the rules for assembling and installing a drainage system made of polymer parts, you can successfully equip the roof with an excellent system for removing atmospheric water.

Rains, especially slanting showers, can ruin the walls and foundations of almost any structure. A high-quality and reliable drainage system is the key to the durability of the building. The process of installing the drainage system does not have to be shifted onto the shoulders of professionals. Having studied the intricacies of the work, you can install the drain on your own.

Features of the

Systems for collecting rainfall are a desirable feature in any home. Modern housing projects often already imply its presence. The option of creating gutters at the stage of installing the sheathing for the future roof is used most often. However, no one cancels the possibility of installing gutters and pipes on an existing roof.

Drainage systems are distinguished by a variety of designs and available materials. For example, not so long ago, systems were made only of galvanized steel. This material was the only available option. Modern products are also metal, but they are coated with polymer compounds. Also, gutters are made of plastic.

Each material has its own quality characteristics, which are worth considering in more detail. So, today on sale you can find gutters:

galvanized;
metal;
polymer coated;
plastic.

Drainage systems made of plastic have recently become more and more popular. This is the best option, since the plastic used for gutters is not afraid of temperature extremes, resistant to frost and heat. Plastic pipes are not afraid of corrosive processes. The negative effects of ultraviolet radiation also do not threaten plastic pipes.

Plastic brackets are usually wide, so they provide a snug and secure fit. The disadvantage of plastic gutters is the inability to bend the structure, as it happens with metal parts. Structures are usually tailored to specific design dimensions. Another significant disadvantage of plastic systems is their high cost.

Polymer coated metal gutters have a lower price.The service life of such systems is quite long. External natural influences are also not terrible for such drains. They look quite presentable. However, if the polymer coating is damaged, corrosion often occurs on such structures. It is not difficult to damage the coating, sometimes it happens even during installation work due to the usual fastening elements.

The most inexpensive type of system is galvanized steel options.Despite the low cost, such gutters are not very popular, because they are usually not aesthetically pleasing enough. The systems have a long service life; corrosion can only appear with deep scratches. The main positive quality of metal systems is the easiest fit of parts to the required configurations.

As for the supporting fasteners, they can be sold either complete with the main system or separately. The holders must match the shape of the gutter. In this matter, you can also rely on the technical requirements of SNiPs and GOSTs.

Technical requirements

The number of brackets according to SNiP is calculated according to the standard distance between fasteners, which should be 50-60 cm. To calculate the required number of fasteners, the total length of the system must be divided by this distance. If the building has a non-linear shape, then the total amount relative to each wall can be calculated. Corner elements must be counted in pieces, since the drains located in the corners must adhere on both sides.

The brackets can be attached in several ways.

To the roof truss system. This option is suitable for roofing material that has not yet been installed.
To the wind board. This option is the only one in case the ebbs are made of plastic. With other materials, this is one of the possible options.
To the last board of the sheathing for the roofing material, if it is solid.

Also, this method is suitable if the roofing material has not yet been installed. GOST assumes that the brackets should be mounted taking into account the created slope of the system. The easiest way is with metal options, since they can be bent with improvised means.

According to the same normative parameters, the gutter must be placed so that the roof covering ends before half of the gutter. The correct location for the gutter is 1 / 2-1 / 3, this will allow the system to catch water even in heavy rain showers.

Regulatory rules also imply the optimal choice of the location of the structure. For example, it is not recommended to install the gutter high in snowy regions, as well as on roofs with a low angle of inclination.

If the region of your residence is not snowy, and the roof has a sufficient slope, you do not need to worry too much about the location of the structure. If the low gutter does not work, then additional snow guards can be installed. The snow will fall off the roof little by little and will not harm the storm system.

In addition to the fasteners, it is important to correctly count the number of pipes and gutters. It is also worth considering that if the diameter of the system is not displayed correctly, then it will not be able to drain the required volume of water from the roof, or it will cope, but it will turn out to be unjustifiably expensive.

There are certain principles for the calculation.

For surfaces with a total area of \u200b\u200bslopes up to 50 square meters, pipes of 75 mm and gutters of 100 mm are used.
For surfaces with an area of \u200b\u200b50 to 10 square meters, pipes with a diameter of 87 mm and troughs of 125 mm are used.
For roofs with a square of more than 100 square meters, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and gutters of 150 mm are relevant.

A paper drainage system project will simplify the task of selecting all the constituent elements. All information on your conceived design must be reflected schematically. Knowledge of the types of systems is useful for this work.

Views

When arranging a residential building, various drainage systems can be used. The most popular option is attached to the outside of the structure and is a collection of various elements in which water can accumulate. For further removal of moisture, a storm sewer or a well is sometimes equipped. Summer residents install ordinary barrels to collect water, which can subsequently be watered into the garden.

This version of the drain system is called organized, outdoor. However, it is not very suitable for flat roofs. The best choice here is a storm funnel, which is usually round in shape. Water flows through the drain into the funnel, then goes into the pipes and is sent to the sewer. The required number of such funnels in the roof is determined by regional natural factors, as well as the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof.

The internal drain can work on a gravity system. Also, sometimes they equip a version of the system with a siphon. These systems require fewer funnels. In gutters, where water must flow by gravity, the flow rate is determined by the angle of inclination of the gutters.

Experts identify another type of drainage system, which is classified as an unorganized type. Such a drain is a roof with a properly equipped slope. Through it, moisture freely flows down, while the facade of the building does not "suffer" at all. However, due to the fact that water falls close to the foundation, the risk of its destruction increases. This option is acceptable for pitched roofs. In this case, it is advisable to make a bias towards the courtyard.

Such roofs are rarely used for residential buildings. According to SNiP, unorganized drains are allowed only on multi-storey buildings. In addition, for the possibility of arranging an unorganized drainage system, experts calculate the annual amount of precipitation in the region. It should not exceed 300 mm / year.

Balconies cannot be placed on the part of the building where the slope faces. Also, there should not be carriageways, pedestrian zones.

The roof covering is equipped with a visor with a length of at least 60 cm. An unorganized drain will not provide good protection for residential buildings.

There is another version of the drain, called a drip. It looks like a plank fixed to the gable or cornice of a structure. The drip is a good protection of the facade of the house from moisture. It works as follows:

water hits the plate;
then it pours into the gutter;
then the sediments enter the drainage system.

The device of different types of drainage systems is different. Let's take a closer look at traditional outdoor and indoor systems.

Device

The device of an internal drain involves the placement of pipes inside buildings. Such a system does not allow the pipes to freeze and is well suited for regions with very variable weather. The advantage of the system is that the pipes are not visible from the facade, which improves the exterior. A feature of the device is the mandatory presence of drainage or a special place where rainwater enters.

The system design assumes the mandatory presence of:

pipeline;
receiving funnels with a collector;
special cleaning systems.

Unlike the first option, the external drain is placed on the facade of the building. Most suburban private buildings are equipped with just such a system. Its main convenience lies in the fact that the gutter device is allowed after construction. With an internal drain, this option will not work.

The advantages of an external device are as follows:

easy installation;
easy care;
there is no need for professional knowledge and skills.

In addition, a wide variety of materials can be used for outdoor systems.

Material calculation

To calculate materials according to SNiP, the following data is required:

roof area;
the amount of average annual precipitation;
temperature minimum in winter in the region;
the presence of rainwater drainage.

This calculation helps to determine the number of gutters, or rather the total length of the overhangs, which was divided by the length of one gutter. For example, the total length of the overhang is 40 meters. Subtract the length of the corner pieces (15 cm on one side) It turns out: 12 * 15 \u003d 1.80. Then: 40 - 1.8 \u003d 38.2 m.

The standard length of one galvanized gutter is 3 meters. This means that 13 gutters are required (38.2 / 3 \u003d 12.7). The number of connecting elements is selected according to the number of connection points in the structure. A drawing will help you with this, in which you need to draw a rectangle with schematically located drainage elements. For our example, 18 couplings are required.

The number of mounting brackets is calculated based on the total length divided by the standard pitch. For example, for plastic it is 60 cm, and for metal it is 70 cm.

If the system is not closed, and the gutters will be mounted with open ends, then the number of plugs must be determined. For example, for a gable gable roof on which a two-strand system is mounted, four plugs must be installed. If the roof is hipped, hipped, no plugs are required at all.

The number of corner pieces will be equal to the number of outside and inside corners of the house. The number of pipes is chosen so that it matches the number of gutters, and their length should correspond to the height of the structure. In some cases, bent knees are needed. Their need is determined by the width of the overhang.

A clamp must be put on each connection of the sections. If the pipe is three meters long, then there should be two clamps: one on top, the other on the bottom.

The branch must be located 30 centimeters from the ground (it can be lowered to 15 cm, but only if there is a collector).

The calculation of the internal drain is carried out according to the rule - one funnel per 0.75 square meter. The pitch between the funnels is determined by dividing the length of the roof, measured along the longitudinal axis, by the number of funnels. In addition to water intakes, the system will require:

risers;
outlet pipes
release.

For internal drainage, you can choose pipes with a diameter of 100, 140, 180 mm. The length can be 70 or 150 m. The incoming moisture is transferred to the storm sewer. If the drainage systems are supposed to be used year-round, then the system is best placed in a heated area.

The internal system often suffers from debris that can enter it from the roof. The design of the protection is extremely simple - a cap and a glass. This is an auxiliary element, but it does a good job of trapping various debris.

This auxiliary device is not required if the internal drain is installed with a siphon. This is a special valve for a storm sewer connected to a gutter. It holds the pressure of the water in the pipes. When filling the drainage system, the valve opens, a very rapid release of precipitation occurs. The formation of blockages in the siphon system is rare; it practically does not need to be cleaned.

Installation

Do-it-yourself installation of gutters will be correct if you strictly follow the instructions. It will be more convenient to mount by considering a specific example in detail. According to an example, you can make a drain after laying the roof covering.

To assemble an outdoor system like this, you need long gutter brackets. You will need to attach the brackets to the bottom board. In our example, the roof covering material is shingles. Therefore, here it is enough to raise the elements of the roof covering laid in this row.

For the efficiency of the gutter system, it is important to properly prepare the brackets. The fasteners must first be tried on. Please note that the edge of the gutter must not protrude beyond the roof slope line. Ideally, there should be about 2 cm between the edge of the hook and the ramp line. After trying on, markings should be applied. The first hook must in any case be higher than the last.

For fitting, the first hook must be laid to the place of the upcoming installation. A rule or a regular rail is installed directly on the slope. Measure from the folded end of the hook to a rule of about two centimeters. Mark the bend point. SNiP condition - the gutter must overlap the edge by a third. Find a point that meets this condition. Make a mark on the bracket leg.

Find the slope to the water intake. A running meter of a cornice is about 3 mm of a slope. In the example, 12 meters of drainage means 3 * 12 \u003d 36. This should be the difference between the first and last hooks. Draw a fold line. To do this, put the brackets in the required amount in a row and draw an inclined line on their legs. Number the marked hooks.

Bend the holders with a special device that optimizes accuracy. For work, you can use a vice, but only if the hooks are not covered.

To maintain the slope, first attach the two outer brackets. Pull the control line between them. Fastening of ordinary hooks is carried out according to the marked distance. The main work has been done. It remains to install the gutters and funnel. Carry out another step of fitting, but this time to the gutter, or rather to that part of it, to which the downpipe will be attached.

To find the exact location for drilling, it is better to put a plastic funnel on the chute.

Mark the hole with a marker and then punch it out in the gutter. A hacksaw is suitable for forming a hole. The tool makes two opposite cuts. The edges of the cuts and the drilled hole are smoothed with sandpaper. Next, you need to mount the funnel on the gutter and fix it with special latches. It is easy to mount the system to a flat wall, just fix it on hooks and fix the funnel pipes with glue.

On the roof, the installation of the system begins with gutters with a funnel. Reinforce gutter parts using connectors. It is desirable that the inside of the connectors is also covered with adhesive. If necessary, the last step will be to attach the plugs. They are needed to collect water from pitched roofs with two gutters.

Assembling the risers starts with assembling the knees. If the structure of the structure has a wide cornice, then there will be more stages. Here again, you will need to try on. It is carried out after joining the funnel of the first elbow to the nozzle. Attach the lower elbow to the wall mounting location. Use a ruler to measure the distance between the parts.

Then proceed to cutting the connecting piece. The transition from the drainage system to the drainage system can be located at an angle. Connect the parts with couplings with clamps installed. Do not tighten the clamps too tight. The drain to the down pipe must be secured with adhesive.

Draining is not necessary if rainwater will be collected in a storm water system. The end of the pipe can be located above the gutter, a few centimeters from the surface. To prevent the gutters from clogging up with debris, it is recommended to cover them with gratings.

The heavier the pipe material, the smaller the distance between the hooks should be. All accessories (hooks, funnels and plugs) must be installed prior to installing the main gutter line.
Copper is considered the most durable material for drainage systems. Copper pipes do not react in any way to atmospheric phenomena. The service life of copper parts can be more than one century. However, such a system is expensive. It will not pay for itself if it is installed in a modest home or a simple industrial building.
The methods of connecting the elements are selected depending on the material used in the design. For example, for plastic, the method of cold welding, using clamps, using rubber seals, will be relevant.

In areas with cold weather conditions, a drainage system heating can be installed. This pleasure is not cheap, but it effectively prevents icing, and hence the collapse of the entire system.
It is not necessary to cut metal gutters with an angle grinder, especially if they are polymer coated elements. The best tool for cutting gutters is a metal hacksaw.
Do not forget about the need to periodically clean the system. Open gutters are easily clogged with fallen leaves, and small debris and dirt gets into the pipes. Debris that gets into the drain will have to be cleaned up manually. A good pressure of water, for example from a hose, will help in cleaning. There are specialists who will do this work for a monetary reward.

It is better to mount the gutter with all connections and plugs on the ground. To lift the system under the roof, you need an assistant. If a person works alone, then it is better to assemble the system upstairs, under the roof, but this is not entirely convenient.
The optimal adhesive for joining PVC pipes is a two-component, based on a polymer compound (the second component is tetrahydrofuran). It is a heat-resistant compound that is resistant to aggressive chemical substances. The solidification of substances is observed for 4 minutes. The glue is sold in containers weighing from 0.125 to 1 kg. The mechanical strength and safety margin of such an adhesive composition are very high.
Clamps and seals can be used for metal. If the installation of the system is beyond your strength, then it is better to call professional installers for installation. The work will be done efficiently and quickly.

Any building needs high-quality drainage of atmospheric precipitation. The roof itself is sealed, and storm water and snow go away thanks to the slopes. But if the flowing moisture gets on the facade or foundation of the building, then they will become damp and wear out faster. Therefore, every building needs a drain. It is a protective structure consisting of a system of gutters located along the perimeter of the roof and drain pipes.

Why do you need a drain

An external gutter is a set of open gutters that collects moisture from the roof and directs it into vertical drainage pipes. The places where the structure ends are equipped with containers for collecting water or storm sewers.

The gutter protects the house from the damaging effects of moisture

Functions of the drain

The drain performs the following functions:

Protective. It consists in the disposal of wastewater from the walls and basement of the house.
Decorative. A beautiful homemade gutter will become a decoration of your home or gazebo.
Cumulative. With the help of such a system, storm water can be filled into a special reservoir for irrigation.

Industrial gutters are made of special plastic or galvanized steel and their cost is quite high. And if you add plugs, funnels, corners and knees, then the price will double. Ready-made parts have their advantage - they are easy to assemble, like a constructor. To save money, the craftsmen found an alternative and began to independently manufacture drainage systems from improvised means, for example, from plastic sewer pipes. Therefore, if there is already a house or cottage, but there is no drain, then you can risk making it yourself.

Homemade gutter can last for years

If you approach the matter wisely and choose the right material, then a homemade gutter can be used as the main one.

Types of gutters

The drain is of the following types:

Outside or outside. This type is suitable for self-assembly.
Internal, which is foreseen in the project. Most often, this type is installed on flat roofs; pipes made of any material are suitable for it.

Materials for homemade gutters

Previously, only metal was used to assemble the ebb systems. More often - galvanized or polymer-coated steel, less often - copper or aluminum. Now the range of suitable materials has increased significantly:

Galvanized steel gutters. They are durable, reliable, resistant to stress and temperature fluctuations. Their disadvantage is noise and corrosion.
Galvanized steel is one of the most popular gutter materials
PVC ejection systems. They are characterized by low weight and low noise, are easy to assemble and resist temperature extremes well.
PVC gutter - reliable and quiet
Drainage systems from sewer pipes. Thanks to their convenient installation and a wide variety of adapters, such pipes have become an excellent replacement for industrial PVC gutters.
Sewer pipes are great gutter material
Ceramic pipes and gutters. They will need special clay and pottery skill.
Ceramic pipes are very durable
Ebb from plastic bottles. They are quick to install, but suitable as a temporary alternative.
Bottle plastic is the most affordable material for creating drainage
Wooden gutters. Made by hand, they last a long time only in the case of special processing.
Wooden gutter is very decorative
Copper drains. Suitable for long-term use, but over time they become patina.
Copper gutters look noble and prestigious

For the hand-made manufacture of a standard drainage system, plastic sewer pipes are often used. They have a number of undoubted advantages:

affordable price;
a wide range of pipes and adapters, as well as all kinds of fastening mechanisms;
light weight, which facilitates transportation and installation;
the possibility of self-cutting;
durability.

Since such pipes come in different colors, you need to figure out which ones are recommended to be used for arranging the drainage system:

How to make a drain with your own hands

Before purchasing pipes, a diagram of the entire system is drawn up, including all parts of the structure and their number:

The cross-section of the pipes is selected based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof slope. You can use the following scale:

slope area up to 50 sq. m - pipe diameter 8 cm;
up to 125 sq. m - 9 cm;
more than 125 sq. m - 10 cm.

The rest of the elements are purchased based on the diameter of the pipes from which the gutters are made.

As already noted, before purchasing materials and installing a drain, it is necessary to draw a detailed diagram in which the following should be noted:

roof perimeter;
length and number of gutters;
attachment points for brackets, joints and funnels;
location of drains.

Based on the perimeter of the roof, the footage of the pipe for future gutters is determined. Since it is cut in half and two pieces are obtained from one workpiece, the required pipe length will be equal to half of the roof perimeter. Next, the number of drainpipes is calculated. For this, a plan is drawn, on which all elements are marked. The distance between them cannot exceed 5 m. After determining the number of gutters, their length is calculated, for which the distance from the eaves overhang to the ground is measured. This will be the estimated height of the riser. This figure is multiplied by the number of parts and the desired pipe length is obtained. Tees connecting the gutters and risers are calculated next on the project. If the risers deviate at an angle, ready-made adapters are purchased. And also a special universal joint sealant is required.

Tools for the job

For work you need:

wood screws;
screwdriver;
grinder, jigsaw;
hacksaw for metal;
screwdriver;
construction cord;
level and tape measure;

Scaffolding will also be needed.

Construction of a drainage system

After purchasing the materials, you can begin to manufacture and assemble the drainage structure.

Create gutters

To make a gutter from the pipe, it should be cut in half. This can be done with a grinder by choosing a diamond-coated disc and segments. Then the plastic will not melt during cutting. You can also use an electric jigsaw. For convenience, you need to design something like a guide and fix it on the workpiece so that the cut is even. It can also be done with a simple hacksaw. A ruler attached to the workpiece with tape, or a thread pulled over self-tapping screws screwed into the pipe from both ends, can act as a guide. The pipe sections entering the tee are not sawn.This ensures reliable connections.

One plastic pipe produces two gutters

Manufacturing and installation of brackets

Brackets are used to secure the gutters. You can buy them or make your own from strips of sheet metal, bending to the size of the gutter. The bracket is the basic component of the outdoor gutter that supports the gutter. With the help of hook-shaped holders, the configuration of the intake circuit is formed.
The brackets can be made independently from a strip of steel with a thickness of at least 2 mm, because they must be reliable. You can purchase ready-made strips for electrical work. Their section is initially suitable, it remains only to cut the blanks along the length.
Workpiece size:

To ensure that all brackets are the same, you can use a steel strip bending tool or a steel pipe of the correct size as a template. It is also recommended to fill nails on a thick board in the desired sequence and bend the holder using a piece of pipe as a lever.
After shaping, holes are drilled in the brackets - two for attaching to the cornice, the next two for attaching the gutter. Finally, the holders are painted with rust paint - it is more durable. The brackets are attached in several ways:

Brackets are mounted taking into account the following principles:

Having chosen the method of fixing the brackets, you can get to work:

The first are the two extreme brackets, between which the required slope is maintained.
The two outer brackets are attached first.
A cord is pulled between the fixed brackets, and along this line, places are outlined for attaching all other elements.
The brackets are screwed to the base with a pitch of 550–600 mm.
A distance of 5–6 cm is maintained between the brackets
The next are plastic adapters or funnels of the future drain. One funnel is capable of collecting water from 120 m of the roof.
The hole for installing the funnel is cut with a hacksaw
Gutters are installed. They gather both on the ground and under the roof. The main thing is to correctly connect the joints. They are attached with glue or docked using special aluminum clips. In case of docking, the use of a sealant is mandatory. Bracket mounting height varies by region. If there is little snow in winter, then you can fix it where it is convenient. Otherwise, the gutter is lowered so that the snow coming down from the roof does not carry the gutter with it.
The gutters are joined with clips or put on glue
When the gutters are assembled and rest on the brackets, the adapter pipes made of solid pieces of pipes are inserted into tees or drain funnels. Before that, they are treated with a sealant. At the upper end of the drain system, a plug is always installed.
The plug is installed on a rubber seal

Video: installing eaves brackets

Installation of external drainage pipes

Assembling downpipes looks the same as connecting gutters. If the pipe is lengthened, then an adapter is placed on the sealant between the segments. The process requires adherence to a number of rules:

the drainpipe should extend 10 cm from the wall;
clamps must be used for fastening to walls;
the pipe should be mounted from top to bottom;
insert the upper section into the funnel and secure with sealant.

If necessary, the riser pipe can be connected to the storm drain adapter. It is recommended to replace it with a knee, under which a container for flowing water is placed.

The installation of the downpipe must be carried out in accordance with the rules

It is recommended to additionally protect the finished gutter from littering by installing a building mesh rolled into a roll in the gutters. The diameter of the rolled roll should be slightly less than the diameter of the pipe from which the grooves are made. The protection is fixed with plastic clips.

The gutter can be protected with a mesh made of different materials

Video: drainage from sewer pipes

Homemade galvanized steel gutter

The creation of a galvanized steel drainage system requires certain knowledge and skill. Typically, 0.5–0.7 mm roofing sheet steel is used. It should not be less than 270 g per sq. m.

Tools

You need to prepare:

scissors for metal;
marker for marking;
hammer and mallet;
pliers.

Making a pipe from tin

Pipes are a simple element of a drainage system and are very easy to make at home. For work, sheets of galvanized steel or thin sheet metal are suitable. The manufacturing method for these materials is the same.

Steel pipe is easy to make by yourself

Step-by-step instruction

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Calculation of the amount of materials and their purchase.
The weight of the steel sheet must be at least 270 g per sq. m
A sheet of metal laid on a flat surface is cut to fit the gutters and pipes of the future drain. The width of the workpiece for the pipe should have a margin of one and a half centimeters for joining the edges. A fold line is also applied - on one side at a distance of 0.5 cm, and on the other - 1 cm. Before shaping, the workpiece can be painted to extend its service life.
To make the downpipe last longer, it can be painted
With the help of pliers, the pattern is bent from the smaller side at an angle, and from the larger side - the letter G.
The metal is leveled with a mallet at a right angle. The sides of the workpiece are connected, and the smaller part should go into the larger one.
A cylindrical or semi-cylindrical shape of the workpiece can be made manually using a template. A sheet of metal is laid on a pipe or log of the required diameter and tapped with a mallet.
You can also shape the drain pipe with your own hands.

Installation of steel gutters

The principles of the galvanized metal drainage system are similar to the installation of a drainage system made of plastic pipes. But there are also differences:

After determining the starting point, the gutter brackets are mounted.
Metal gutters are overlapped with a length of 7–10 cm. The overlap is designed to compensate for the expansion of the metal in the summer.
Funnels are installed, which should be located between the brackets. Holes for funnels are cut with metal scissors.
The funnels are connected to the pipe at a sufficient distance from the wall.
The pipes are fixed with clamps.
The ebb is attached to the bottom of the pipe.
An anti-icing system is being installed.

Video: metal gutter construction

Drainage from plastic bottles

The cheapest and easiest option is to create a drain from a plastic container. It will be easy to accumulate the required amount of such material, but the construction will require 1.5-liter straight-shaped bottles. In addition to them, you will need wire and brackets.

Bottled plastic gutter is quick and cheap to assemble

Tools and materials for work

It is worth preparing:

furniture stapler and staples 10–12 mm;
construction knife;
drill or screwdriver;
thin drill;
wire;
awl;
plastic containers.

Step-by-step instructions for making an ebb from plastic bottles

The first step is to calculate the length of the future drain. For convenience, you can draw a sketch. The functional part of the bottle will be 15–20 cm. This plastic is not suitable for long (more than 5 m) structures.
The bottles are cleaned of stickers and labels.
Then the bottom and the neck are cut off from the plastic container in the place where the upper part narrows. For the gutter, the resulting cylinder is sawn in half.
A plastic bottle needs to be prepared in order to make a drain out of it
The gutter is assembled from plastic rectangles using a stapler. The plastic is overlapped (1.5 cm) and fixed with two or three staples. The bottoms are used as plugs for rotary structures.
You need to fasten the parts of the bottles for the gutter with a stapler
The resulting light gutter is attached to the roof. For this, holes are drilled in the slate or other roofing material at a distance of 20–30 cm. Similar holes in the gutter are made with a screwdriver or an ordinary awl. Next, a wire is passed through the holes, which attaches the weir to the roof.
The drainage system is also easily constructed from bottles. We cut off the neck of one of them, and from the rest we make the already familiar cylinders. A bottle with a cut-off neck will act as an adapter - you will need to make a hole in it for the edge of the gutter.
A ready-made construction from plastic bottles will last about a year

The finished structure will last at least a year, but then you have to take care of creating a more perfect system.

Video: plastic bottle gutter

It is obvious that self-construction of a drainage system is available to anyone who wants to equip their home with an economical and practical design.

This article is for DIYers who want to figure out how to properly install roof gutters so as not to pay employees for something that they can perfectly do themselves. Indeed, by and large, it is a real task to mount metal gutters. But there are nuances that only masters know about, and I am ready to reveal them.

Competent preparation is the main key to success

Do-it-yourself installation of a drain, however, like any other work, always begins with careful preparation. For professionals, this has already been worked out at the level of instincts, but it is better for a home craftsman to take a sheet of paper and make a small plan for himself.

Agree, it will be a shame if, in the midst of work, it suddenly turns out that some little thing is missing. Or even worse, you missed an important editing step and will need to shoot something to correct mistakes.

A few words about choosing a system

Since we are talking about how to install exactly metal roofing outflows, it is worth saying a few words about what they are:

The most common in this direction are considered to be roof gutters made of galvanized steel.

These ebbs are of 2 types:

Bare galvanized steel, that is, only zinc spraying is applied to the metal;
Polymer coated galvanized steel.

The price of these low tides differs by at least 2 times. If bare galvanizing will cost you about 150 rubles per running meter, then the cost of a drain with additional high-quality polymer protection starts already from 320 rubles per meter;

When you decide, keep in mind: naked galvanizing in a big city will last no more than 10 years, since acid rains will simply eat it up. Therefore, it is only suitable for rural areas and country cottages.

Installation of aluminum pipes and gutters is in second place in terms of popularity. Such systems all come with polymer coloring. Plus they weigh much less than steel ones. For a normal manufacturer, the price starts from about 700 rubles m / n;

There are also copper tides. But to be honest, I have not yet met that someone independently carried out the installation of copper gutters for the roof. The point is not that it is difficult or difficult, they just cost at least 900 rubles per 1 m / n, and those people who have such funds can often afford to hire craftsmen.

How to calculate the ebb

Before you make a drain from the roof, you still need to calculate what kind of drain is needed personally in your case. In this case, we are talking about the cross-section of pipes and gutters.

Buying the largest section with a margin is also not an option:

Firstly, huge gutters will look, to put it mildly, ridiculous on a small modest house;
And secondly, their price is much higher.

First of all, we need to find out the effective or usable roof area. Here, most home craftsmen, like me in my time, step on the same rake.

We all went to school and we know that in order to calculate the area of \u200b\u200ba flat figure, you need to multiply the length by the width. But this formula is not suitable for calculating the effective area of \u200b\u200ba sloped roof. After all, we are dealing with an inclined plane.

The effective roof area with your own hands is calculated using a different formula (shown in the diagram below).

There is a small nuance here. If your roof has an angle of inclination of up to 10º, then its useful area is calculated by the formula A * C \u003d S.

Having on hand the useful area of \u200b\u200byour roof, you can already look at the table and find out which pipes and gutters are best for you. But here, too, not everything is simple, you need to take into account at what point in the gutter you are going to install a drain funnel with a drain pipe.

Keep in mind: when calculating the effective roof area, you do not need to fully calculate the entire area of \u200b\u200byour roof, data on the largest plane is quite enough.

Now let's look at an example of how the number of elements of the drainage system is counted. Suppose we have a four-pitched roof 12x6m, with a gable annex in the center of the building 6x2m.

Installation of gutters is supposed to be done at an angle. On average, the angle of inclination fluctuates within 1-3 mm per 1 running meter of the gutter. Naturally, the slope is towards the drain funnel. But if the length of the gutter exceeds 10 m in a straight line, then the slope must be made from the center to both sides and 2 drains must be installed at the edges.

As a rule, most reputable manufacturers produce gutters in lengths of 3m and 4m. We have a length of a large slope of 12m, respectively, it is necessary to install 2 funnels on it along the edges, therefore, at least 4 funnels with sets of drainpipes and elbows will go to the house.

According to the rules, 4 sinks are enough for such a house.

But, based on my own experience, I would install a couple more drains on both sides of the central extension (they are shown with a dotted line in the diagram).

As a result, it is necessary to take 10 pieces of gutters with a length of 3m and 1 gutter with a length of 4m, it will later be cut in half and installed on both sides of the extension;
There will be 4 external corners for such a system, plus 2 internal corners for arranging the turns of the gutter next to the extension;
This entire structure will be based on suspensions, according to the rules, they are mounted at intervals of about half a meter, which means that 68 brackets will be needed for the entire perimeter;
The joints of the gutters and connections to the outer and inner corners are fixed with brackets with sealing rubber gaskets, in our case, 17 such brackets will be needed;
We have a roof drainage system along the entire perimeter, there is a gap only in the extension area, therefore, we need 2 plugs there;
Downpipes are also sold in lengths of 3m and 4m. The number of pipes varies from the removal of the roof (the distance from the wall to the edge of the roof) and from the height of the roof above the ground; when calculating, you need to round up;
But in any case, for the installation of each drain, you will need 3 transitional elbows;
Downpipes are attached to the wall with special brackets, they are also for stone walls. The distance between the brackets is in the range of 1.5 - 2m.

How to mount a metal gutter with your own hands

It is not so important what kind of metal your system is made of, all metal gutters are mounted according to the same principle. In the models, of course, there are small differences, but they are not so great as to talk about different methods of installation.

Naturally, installing a drain on the roof is impossible without a minimum set of tools, in particular, you will need:

Nylon thread in order to beat off the level along the horizon;
Hydro level;
Screwdriver;
Roulette;
Hammer;
Pliers;
Bulgarian;
Hacksaw for metal;
Scissors for cutting metal, right and left;
Roofing sealant and construction gun for it.

Before attaching the gutter to the roof, there are a few important things to consider:

The roof slope should hang over the edge of the gutter by no more than a quarter, otherwise the water will go past the gutter in case of heavy rainfall;

If you continue the imaginary line along the roof slope, then this line should not cross the outer edge of the gutter. This option is dangerous because when snow melts in winter, the snow mass can simply cut off your chute.

Now let's move on to the question of how to attach the drain to the roof.

There are 2 options for installing the brackets:

According to the first option, the hanging brackets are attached directly to the roof rafters or counter-battens on these rafters;

The second option is more practical, it provides for the installation of brackets directly on the frontal board.

Personally, I like the installation of the gutter on the frontal board better. In this case, you are not "tied" to the roof. If the brackets are fixed to the rafters, then even with minor repairs you will have to dismantle the roof covering along the edge, otherwise you will not reach the bracket mountings.

Plus, rafter hangers are more expensive.

But this is my personal opinion, for those who decided to attach the suspensions to the rafters, I will give some advice on installation:

To bend the suspensions at the desired angle, you will need a strip bender;
To maintain the desired slope of the gutter, the brackets should be marked before bending. To do this, put them together and draw a horizontal line 10 mm above the future edge of the gutter;
The suspensions are mounted at intervals of half a meter, if we have 10 suspensions in the package, then we measure 20 mm along the edge and draw a diagonal. It will indicate the bending points.

When bending the brackets, one more subtlety will need to be taken into account: the outer edge of the gutter should be lower than the inner one by about 2 mm relative to the horizon.

When installing the brackets on the frontal board, you do not need to measure and bend anything, all this is taken into account already at the factory. But we still have to maintain the desired angle of inclination, so 2 suspensions are attached first along the edges of the frontal board at a distance of 150 mm from the edge of the roof.

A nylon thread is pulled between these brackets.

In this version, it is more convenient to measure the angle of inclination using a hydro level:

first, the upper extreme suspension was fixed;
after that, the fixation point of the lower suspension was marked with a hydraulic level;
fixed it and pulled a cord between the two hangers. This cord will become a reference point for attaching intermediate hangers.

First, a rubber gasket is inserted into the groove of the plug itself, after which it is put on the edge of the groove until it clicks.

But one rubber gasket is often not enough, so the joint will still need to be coated with a bitumen-based roofing sealant. Note that it is not silicone but a roofing sealant that is used.

Now we will need to cut a hole in the gutter for the funnel of the downspout and slightly bend the edges of this hole, make the so-called drip. It is better to make the hole in advance, while still on the ground.

Such a hole can be cut with a special crown inserted into an electric drill. But most often craftsmen do it with a hacksaw for metal. First, the pipe is tried on and the groove is marked, after which a sector in the groove is cut out with a hacksaw.

To connect the gutters on straight sections of the route, special seals are used. Before attaching this seal to the gutter, a rubber gasket is inserted into it. Please note that the gasket is inserted with the embossed side towards the groove.

The metal seal itself with a rubber gasket is first caught on the far edge of the gutter, then the bracket is put on the near edge, after which the lock on the seal is snapped into place and fixed with a metal tongue. When the system is assembled, we need to go through all the joints from the inside with roofing sealant.

The metal funnel for the downspout has hooks on one side and several tongues on the other. We need to hook the funnel from the bottom to the edge of the gutter, press it against the gutter and bend these few tongues inward.

Installation of a downspout is a separate topic. According to the rules, the vertical pipe should run 5 - 7 cm from the wall. It cannot be mounted closer, because the wall can get wet from the supporting brackets. And if you move the pipe further, it will not be beautiful.

The distance from the drainpipe to the wall of the house is 5 - 7 cm.

The photo below shows another table, according to which the length of the pipes is calculated, and also elbows and adapters are installed.

Many home craftsmen "stumble" on one trifle: at the top, immediately between the first and second drain elbows, as a rule, you need to insert a small sector of an inclined pipe. So, when you measure this sector, do not forget to make a tolerance for those parts of the pipe that will go into the knee, this is about 4 cm on each side.

In general, our metal gutter system has been installed. Now it remains only to install one more elbow on the pipe from below, it is needed to compensate for the high water pressure. According to the rules, this knee should be 20 cm from the ground, but in practice it is installed as you like.

For the installation of the upper inclined sector of the downpipe, one-meter adapters are sold, in which one of the sides is equipped with an expander. The thing is convenient, but this meter of pipe costs 600 rubles, and in most cases it is used up to half a meter, the rest is stored in the closet until better times.

There is a little trick here: we cannot stretch the end of the trim and make the same expander, for this we need equipment. But to narrow the pipe a little so that it goes into the knee, we are quite capable. To do this, take the pliers and make bends around the perimeter, as in the photo below.

In a snowy winter, there is a rather high risk of ripping off or at least bending the suspensions on the gutters. After such an accident, restoring the correct slope of the gutter is more difficult than installing a new gutter.

I borrowed a good trick from an experienced craftsman: each bracket is suspended from the edge of the roof with a metal strip. To do this, we make holes in the suspension itself and in the edge of the roof, attach a strip and fix it with rivets or self-tapping screws.

The biggest problem in absolutely all gutters is foliage and dirt clogging. We cannot cope with dirt in any way, but it is quite possible to protect ourselves from large debris.

Now a special plastic mesh is being sold for this to protect the gutters from debris. You cut to the desired length, roll the mesh into a roll and fix it in this position with plastic ties. Then you just have to put this roll in the chute.

Output

The home craftsman needs to pay special attention to two stages, this is a detailed calculation and the installation of the system itself, in this material these stages are described in detail. In the photo and video in this article, you will find a number of professional nuances. And if you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.