Roof construction. How to make a gable roof with your own hands. Hydro, heat and vapor barrier - current trends in roof construction

How to make a roof at home with your own hands? This article was written to answer this question. Everyone has known everything about insulation materials and roofing for a long time, for this reason, in this article we will focus on how to properly make a frame for a roof.

Mauerlat for gable roof

Mauerlat is the basis that takes on the bulk of the structural loads. In plain language, the Mauerlat is the foundation on top of which the roof will be built. For the arrangement of the base, beams are used, with a cross section equal to 150 by 150 mm. They are installed in a parallel plane with the roof ridge.

The fastening of the Mauerlat beams must be extremely reliable, this is done so that the roof is not afraid of wind and weather disasters. Ideally, these actions are carried out even when the walls are being built. To do this, you need to lay the top four rows of bricks with thick wire. This wire is called wire rod, and its location should be with a meter gap.

The middle of the wire should be in a brick wall, and its ends, which hang freely, should be of such a length that it is enough for the subsequent strapping of the timber. In the event that the house project does not provide for plastering, then the installation of the outer edge of the wire must be carried out inside the solution, so it will not be noticeable.

The important point is that the Mauerlat must recede from the edge of the wall by at least 100 mm. To protect the beams from decay, only a few layers are placed under them.

Strengthening the roof frame

When building a roof, a prerequisite is the arrangement of a reliable frame.
A frame is a truss system attached to a Mauerlat. Be sure to take into account that if the length of the beams is more than 4.5 m, then you will additionally have to mount runs.

The optimal section of the beams used to build the roof frame in a brick house is 70 by 150 mm.

The fastening of the rafters on the Mauerlat is carried out using a special cutout, which is fixed with twenty-centimeter nails. Nailing should be done according to this principle:

The first nail is nailed through the rafter to the Mauerlat in a diagonal plane;
The second nail is driven in exactly the same way, only from the reverse side;
The third nail is driven at an angle of 90° from above.

This method of fastening the truss system does not allow it to move from side to side.
The upper ends of the rafters are fastened with an overlap, it is on the other. One beam, with its end should overlap the parallel beam. In the upper part, they are also fastened with nails, although bolts can also be used for this.

On this, the work on arranging the frame can be considered completed, it remains only to lay the roofing cake.

How to make a roof at home with your own hands video tutorial

Arranging a roof with your own hands is a difficult task, but quite feasible for those who have at least a little experience in construction. In order for the work to go smoothly, it is necessary to carefully prepare, study the roof installation technology, the sequence of operations and methods of fastening individual structural elements. About how the roof of the house is built with your own hands, and will be discussed in this article.

Roof types

The most common types of roofs include the following:

Shed;
double slope;
Hip four-slope;
broken line;
Combined.

Each design has a number of features, so it is worth considering them in a little more detail:

shed roof. The roof, which has a single slope, differs primarily in cost - a minimum set of materials is required for installation. In addition, the installation process will be quite simple and fast. True, the price for these advantages in the end turns out to be quite significant: firstly, the design is not very attractive visually, and secondly, there will be too little free space under the roof for arranging an attic or attic.
gable roof. This version of the roof structure is the most popular due to the ease of installation and the ability to equip a full-fledged room in the under-roof space. A roof with two slopes is a little more complicated and more expensive than a single-slope version, but simpler and cheaper compared to a four-slope design. A key feature of gable roofs is the presence of triangular gables, which are located at the ends of the building. How to make a triangular roof, you should read more in the corresponding article.
hipped roof. For the installation of such a roof, thorough preparation and serious costs will be required. The design of the hipped roof includes many elements, so there will be a lot of work. The attic of this design cannot be equipped with windows due to the missing gables - but dormers and dormer windows are required without fail, because they will provide illumination of the room and evacuation if necessary.
Roof with broken slopes. As a rule, this type of roof is mounted if there is a desire to make a full-fledged attic. The design of the roof in this case involves the installation of its lower part with a large slope compared to the upper section, due to which the ceiling of the room rises and the usable area increases.
Combined roof. As the name implies, a combination roof can include features of several or all structures. This type of roofing has not gained much popularity, but in some situations only a combination of various design features can achieve the desired result.

The selection of the type of roof is always individual, so you need to build on your own wishes and capabilities.

Calculation of the roof of the house

Before making the roof of the house, it is necessary to perform calculations of all structural elements, to design the roof of the house. The best option would be to fully calculate each indicator, but in practice this is rarely required.

The easiest way is to take the standard cross-sectional values of the roof elements, especially when it comes to a typical building:

Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
Racks - 100x150 or 150x150 mm (the exact value depends on the section of the rafters);
Struts - 100x150 or 50x150 (determined individually, depending on how convenient it will be to connect the struts to the rafters);
Puffs - 50x150 mm;
Runs - 200x200 mm;
Overlays - from 32 to 50 mm.

An accurate calculation of the height and section is performed exclusively for the rafter legs, taking into account the following parameters:

The material used for the roof;
The level of precipitation in the region (usually the values obtained in winter are taken for calculation);
Rafter step;
span.

In principle, the calculation of the roof of a house with your own hands can be performed not very accurately, to approximate values - but in this case, you need to add at least a small margin of safety to the results. To finally simplify the calculation process, you can use an online calculator or special tables of standard values.

If we make the roof of the house with our own hands, then we often have to mount insulating material as well. In this case, the height of the rafter legs will depend on the thickness of the insulation. The installation of the heat-insulating layer must be carried out in such a way that the material is located below the load-bearing beams. Using mineral wool as a heater, it is worth considering that it requires a small gap through which the structure will be ventilated. This gap can simply be left if the rafters are high enough, or a counter-lattice can be mounted.

How to build a roof with your own hands

The general instructions for building a roof with your own hands look like this:

Before you build a roof, you need to take measurements of the building;
Next comes the preparation of all materials (including the impregnation of wooden elements with antiseptics and flame retardants) and tools;
Work begins with the installation of the Mauerlat;
Next, a ridge crossbar is installed (if necessary);
Then the frame is attached;
The design is fixed and reinforced with racks, struts and puffs;
A waterproofing layer and a crate are attached to the assembled frame;
Further, the necessary work is carried out to ensure good ventilation of the under-roof space;
Then droppers are installed;
The last step is the installation of the material chosen for roofing.

Mauerlat installation

Before you build the roof of the house, you need to create a structure designed to securely fasten the roof to the building - and this is the Mauerlat on which the assembled frame is installed. True, when installing a roof on a wooden house, a Mauerlat is not needed - its role will be played by the upper crown of the building. The roof will be attached to the walls with dowels.

The roof of a frame house is installed in a similar way - this time the upper trim will act as a Mauerlat. The connection of the elements of the building and the roof is carried out by cutting with the use of metal corners, in which there are holes for self-tapping screws.

A completely different matter is the installation of a roof on a brick or concrete house. In this case, you can install the Mauerlat in several ways, and the choice of a specific method directly depends on the result of the calculations and the experience of the master.

Mauerlat is mounted in one of four ways:

Wire connection. To implement such an attachment, it is necessary to lay the wire in the masonry at a distance of four rows to the edge of the structure. Mauerlat will subsequently be screwed to the walls with this wire. This option is the least reliable, but anyone can do it.
Mounting with brackets. This method involves laying wooden bars in masonry in four rows from the edge. One part of the bracket is attached directly to the Mauerlat, and the second to a pre-fixed bar. This method is also not difficult, but it is highly undesirable to use it in buildings with a heavy load on the roof.
Mounting with studs. Studs with a diameter of about 10-12 mm are mounted in the masonry. A Mauerlat is temporarily laid on top of them and tapped with a hammer, after which small depressions remain on it in those places where the timber will have to be fixed. These points are drilled through, after which the Mauerlat can be installed on the mounts and the nuts can be tightened.
Mounting with anchor bolts. This method is characterized by maximum complexity and reliability. Anchor bolts are embedded in concrete along the entire perimeter of the wall. The resulting fastening not only provides high-quality fixation of the roof, but also increases the strength of the edge of the wall made of lightweight concrete.

Instructions for the construction of rafters

The load-bearing elements of the roof must be securely attached to the strapping, for which several methods are used. If the roof of a wooden house is being built with your own hands, then the rafters can be exclusively layered.

It's all about two mutually exclusive rules:

The rafters of wooden houses can be fixed exclusively hingedly;
Hanging rafters can only be fixed in a rigid manner.

That is why, when arranging buildings made of wood, only a layered truss system mounted on hinges can be used. To install such a roof, you will have to purchase special elements (usually called skids), which will ensure self-leveling of the roof when the house shrinks.

The self-made roof of a one-story house, the walls of which are made of brick or stone, can be equipped according to any scheme, but the greatest efficiency is achieved with rigid fixation of the rafter legs. Installation of the frame system can be carried out both with and without a cut.

To create a notched roof, you must first cut the rafters so that they fit snugly against the Mauerlat. In this case, it will be necessary to take out the cornice by means of fillies, which are attached to the rafter legs with at least a meter overlap. The fixation of structural elements can be carried out using any fasteners, but the best option would be metal corners fixed with self-tapping screws.

If the roof will be installed without cutting, then fillies will not be required - the necessary frame overhang will be made at the expense of the beams themselves. This option is somewhat easier to arrange, since it does not require an exact fit of all elements. In order for the rafters to fit well to the Mauerlat, stops or separate boards are used. It is better to fasten the elements in the same way as in the previous case.

Fastening and reinforcement of the frame

The assembled frame must be attached to the building box so that the entire structure is not blown away by gusty winds. For fixing, a 4-mm wire is quite suitable, pieces of which are wrapped near the rafter leg at its fulcrum. The free ends of the wire are attached to anchors installed in advance in the wall. In the case of wooden houses, it is quite possible to use brackets - they will be quite enough to securely hold the roof in place.

To increase the strength of the frame, it is necessary to reduce the span of the rafters with the help of struts and racks. Struts are usually set at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees relative to the horizontal. Racks are supported by the walls below them or special elements located in the space between the walls.

Also, the design can be strengthened by tightening, which reduces the bursting load. This is especially true when using a hanging truss system. To assemble the frame, two puffs are usually used, mounted with self-tapping screws on both sides relative to the rafter legs.

Lathing, waterproofing and ventilation

First of all, it is necessary to install the selected waterproofing material on the assembled frame, and after that the crate itself can be fixed. Its design and the dimensions of the elements used are selected individually. Before you make the roof of a house with your own hands, you should read a separate article on how to properly mount the crate.

You should also take care of ventilation, for which you need:

Provide air passage under the roof through the cornices;
Free movement of air under the roof;
Unobstructed air outlet through the ridge part of the roof.

Roof installation and insulation

One of the final stages in the assembly of the roof is the installation of the roofing. On the choice of the appropriate material and the algorithm for its installation, it is worth reading an article on the relevant subject. The last stage is the laying of the thermal insulation layer. Mineral wool is most often used as a roof insulation. The selection of the thickness of the mineral wool must be carried out, starting from the climatic conditions in the region where the construction is taking place.

Conclusion

Mounting the roof after a detailed study no longer looks like such an unbearable task. Before you make a pitched roof, you need to prepare well, stock up on everything you need and plan the work. If you follow a clear algorithm and do all the work with the utmost diligence, then the result will be a high-quality and reliable construction that can stand for decades and reliably protect the building from any external influences.

In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable is being built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex roof configurations.

- in the second case, the rafters lie on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.

Let's take a brick box at home as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. Do-it-yourself construction of any roof begins with the installation of a maurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read.

Mauerlat is installed flush with the inner surface of the walls. Outside, it must be bricked up so that it cannot be seen. At the same time, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the upper surface of the facing brick, so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load .

Next, install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence indicated in Fig. 2. First of all, we put the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their removal determines the width of the eaves. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams, we use a beam, the section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.

After fixing the extreme floor beams, we stretch the cord along the upper plane and expose the rest of the beams, if necessary, pulling up the Mauerlat under them, or vice versa, laying thin plywood (you just often order a beam 200 mm high, and they bring it from 190 to 210 mm, this is on our sawmills equipment). We choose their step taking into account the step of future rafters. When using floorboards 50x150 mm as rafters, we take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, because roofing insulation has such a width).

Having installed all the long beams, we put the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to make about 1 meter. This scheme is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the pediment tide sagged on one of our first roofs, although the tides of the tide were securely fixed. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely excluded.

We fasten all beams to the Mauerlat with 150 nails, you can also use metal rafter corners and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fasteners for rafter connections makes it easier to work. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person, you do not need to make complex cuts and notches. We have already talked about this in the article "".

After installing all the beams, we lay (without fixing) boards on them, you can floor, you can inches. They are needed just to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter up the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.

First of all, we set the racks from the board 50x150 mm according to the level or plumb and fasten them with the help of temporary struts. On fig. The 3 spacers are shown on only one post, again to keep the drawing clear. The step of the racks is not more than 3 meters. First we put the extreme ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we put the intermediate racks. After the construction of the entire truss truss, the intermediate racks can be removed and the living rooms can be easily made on the second floor.

The height of the racks is selected depending on what shape of the roof you want to get. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the Mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.

Having installed the racks, we put them on them and fix the ridge beam literally on a couple of screws. As it we use a board 50x200 mm (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).

Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, we apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board on them, we get a rafter template.

Of course, it is very good when the foot of the house is laid out with high geometric accuracy and floor beams are also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and install them calmly. But to be honest, this is quite difficult to achieve, and even more difficult when a new roof is being made on an old house.

In this case, we first make only the top notch at the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece, apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom gash, as they say in place. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that having installed one rafter, we immediately set the opposite one to it in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend it).

When the length of the roof slope is large and the standard 6-meter board is not enough, there are two ways to go. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, we had 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of boards 7.5 meters long cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.

According to the second method, you need to splice two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section with a length of 1.5 - 2 meters. See the figure for how this is done. The joint is best done at the bottom, and under it it is necessary to install an additional rack.

We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. For fastening to the floor beam, we have recently been using metal mounting plates and self-tapping screws and adding a couple of nails. Sometimes we use brackets. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it wrong. The bracket must work in tension. Below on the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.

Having strengthened the truss truss, we begin to deal with gables. First, we put additional racks, which will be the gable frame (Fig. 7). The accuracy of the installation is controlled by a cord stretched along the bottom of the rafters. Then we make a window opening (Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you like. Please note that in the figure, the stand in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears almost any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).

The next step is filing the cornice boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The frontal board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a board 25x200 mm. We hem two belts from the board 25x100 from below to the cornices (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to fix the soffit in the exterior.

Now, if we are going to mount the drainage system and use metal holders for the gutters, they need to be installed on the stops right now (under the waterproofing film). Moreover, it is also desirable to sheathe the frontal boards with siding at this stage. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show it in the picture. In addition, we now only use plastic gutter holders that are attached directly to the front board. It is more convenient with them and you can put them after the roof is assembled.

Next, we proceed to the crate. First of all, using a construction stapler, we fix the first strip of waterproofing film on the rafters (Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if scaffolding is already installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to put them when you make a roof, drain, sheathe the cornices with siding.

Having fixed the film, we nail the slats of the counter-lattice (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave room for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.

Then we make a crate. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. In addition, instructions are attached to any roof covering, which describes in detail how to make a crate specifically for this material (the figures schematically show a crate for a metal tile). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.

In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After that, it remains only to make a gable overhang and a gable ebb. The sequence here is:

To the protruding ends of the lathing with self-tapping screws, we hem the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below (Fig. 13);

We insert and fix the filly of the gable overhang with self-tapping screws (board 25x150). The distance between them is about 1 meter (Fig. 14);

We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). They are also enough to subsequently sheathe the gable overhangs with siding (Fig. 15);

From pieces of the board 50x150 of the required length, we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, fixing them on the takeaways, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.

This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what happens after the roofing work and sheathing of the gable and cornices with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.

It is not for nothing that we so often use the expression "roof over our heads", because without detracting from the importance of strong walls, it is difficult to imagine a house without this element. What if not a strong roof will become a shield between you and bad weather, protect from rain and wind. Only after the construction they talk about the full completion of construction and the transition to the interior decoration of the house. A well-executed roof installation determines the comfort of the future home.

A do-it-yourself gable roof is a popular design in private construction, which is used in the construction of houses from such materials: timber, logs, bricks, blocks, even concrete. You can easily recognize a gable roof among other design solutions due to the appearance of the house, reminiscent of a triangle.

The choice of this type of roofing is explained by the availability of the materials used and the relative simplicity of installation, which even a novice homebuilder can do.

Device

A gable roof, regardless of whether it is simple or mansard, consists of several structural elements shown in a schematic drawing:

The layout of the elements of the roof truss system

Types of truss systems

There are several ways to make a gable roof for a private house. Their differences can be explained by the use of different types of truss systems, of which there are only two:

Both of these systems are equally reliable, the attic roof involves their joint use when they combine hanging and layered rafters. Before work, professional roofing craftsmen create a gable roof drawing - a plan that reflects the location of all roof elements, according to which the necessary materials are calculated.

Roof calculation

Like any construction process, the construction of the roof of the house must be created by hand on the basis of engineering calculations. For the convenience of its implementation, before building a gable roof, you need to sketch out an approximate plan, on which the length of the roof along the ridge, the exact length of the slopes, taking into account the plumb lines, must be indicated. At this stage, the slope of the future roof should already be determined:

If the main aggressive factor in the construction area is the wind, then it should be 10-10 o, so that its gusts do not tear off the roofing material.
If the construction is started in an area with a large amount of winter precipitation, a slope of 35-45 ° is more appropriate, which does not make it difficult for snow to slide off the roof.

When calculating the required material, it is better to round the obtained values up, without complicating the calculations by subtracting holes for chimneys or skylights in order to avoid confusion.

The necessary calculations do not require knowledge of complex formulas, so anyone who has completed a school mathematics course can perform them. However, the more sophisticated, more complex the gable roof of the house, the higher the complexity of the calculations and the scheme of the truss system.

Mauerlat installation

If the calculation is completed and the materials are purchased, you can install the Mauerlat, and then create the crate. Mauerlat is a kind of foundation for a future roof. Only this design is not made of concrete, like the foundation for a house, but of pine timber.

Softwood is the ideal material for this, being strong and light enough to distribute the weight of the roof evenly around the perimeter of the house's supporting members. It is placed along the slopes of the roof, between the rafter leg and the top of the wall.

Fastening rafter legs to the Mauerlat

For greater safety of the Mauerlat and its long service life, a layer of waterproofing is laid between it and the wall, which is most often roofing material. Depending on the material from which the house is being built, the installation of the Mauerlat is carried out by various methods.

Do-it-yourself construction involves checking the reliability of the connection. If we are talking about a wooden house, fasteners can be made using studs or bars, in a brick house they use metal wire, reinforcement, in buildings made of foam blocks, gas silicate - a concrete screed.

Sequence of work

If there were step-by-step instructions on how to build a gable roof, it would start with how. Hanging should be assembled in advance, using metal corners, bolts. The first to perform the installation of extreme structures, and only then located inside.

To create a layered system, you must first establish the bed on which the supports will be installed. The assembly can be considered complete after fixing all the rafter legs as shown in the drawing. If their length is not enough to create an overhang, it is increased by attaching fillies.

The next step is the installation of the crate . Since its purpose is purely practical, the simplest, cheapest material, for example, an unedged board or even a slab, is used. However, do not neglect the removal of the bark from the surface of the tree, this simple operation will increase its service life. Depending on how it is planned to cover the roof of the house, there are two types of crates:

The final stage of work and subsequent operation

The construction ends with the laying of roofing material. It will be difficult to describe step by step the installation of each material, of which there are a lot on the construction market.

The design of the gable roof guarantees:

Excellent resistance to wind gusts;
Light snow removal from the slopes;
Protection from rain and cold;
Durability and reliability.

If the installation was carried out with high quality using modern materials, then the roof will last for decades without requiring repairs, without requiring complex maintenance. Therefore, you should not save on roofing work, as a reliable roof is a long-term investment in your comfortable life!

Video instruction

To solve the problem of how to properly make the roof of the house so that it lasts a long time without repair, information on the Internet and technical literature on this topic will help the homeowner. Certain skills and knowledge are needed about the individual elements of the roof structure, its nodes and details, about the types of material and technology for carrying out work on the arrangement of the roof covering.

Variety of modern roofs

Modern roofs are made flat and pitched, one-color and multi-colored, with and without attics, from different roofing materials, and even straw is used (see: ""). When developing projects, experts classify roofs into sloping (pitched) and those that do not have a slope. Flat roofs imply the presence of a small angle of inclination - no more than 5 degrees.

In turn, pitched roofs are divided into:

In reality, there are more geometric roof structures and the choice largely depends on the preferences of the developer. When designing a building, the shape of a pitched roof largely depends on its architectural appearance and the purpose of the under-roof space. It can be either a flat slope or a broken bizarre design with a variety of curvature.

The roof frame, regardless of what the roof is, is always a truss system or a truss. A crate is attached to the rafters, necessary for the installation of roofing material.

Building materials for building a roof

After choosing the shape of the roof, it is necessary to determine the material from which the roof surface and the truss structure will be created, and calculate its quantity. The tile coating is considered the most durable, but compared to metal sheets and slate, it weighs much more due to the fact that it is made from baked clay. The choice of material will further affect the durability of the roof.

To build a rafter system, you will need to purchase lumber from natural wood - timber, boards, slats, and for this you need to know how to calculate the volume of the forest. It is also necessary to buy a film for waterproofing, thermal insulation, fasteners, including self-tapping screws and nails. The consumption of materials also depends on the size of the house, the complexity of the structural solution of the roof and the type of coating.

Elements of the truss system

The main part of the rafter system is the rafter. In addition, the design contains the following main elements:

Roof slope angle

The slope depends on the parameters of the roof structure (its height) and the width of the building, so the roofs are:

with a slight slope
with an average slope;
with a strong slope.

Also, the magnitude of the slope of the slopes is affected by:

design decision regarding the design of the building and its appearance;
type of roofing material, since for each of them there is a recommended angle of inclination;
the ability of the roof structure to withstand wind loads and precipitation. The stronger the wind in a given area, the smaller the slope of the slopes should be. Otherwise, with an increase in the angle of inclination, the wind resistance decreases and the windage increases - as a result, the roof can simply be demolished. On the other hand, on a steep slope, snow and rain do not linger for a long time, unlike the roof, which has a minimum angle of inclination.

How to measure the pitch of a roof

In the technical documentation (on the drawings and diagrams), the roof slope is usually denoted by the letter "i". As already mentioned, it is measured in percentage terms or in degrees. You can find out the angle of inclination either by mathematical calculation, or using a geodetic device called an inclinometer. Also, electronic and drip levels with inclinometers are used for measurement.

When there is no such device, mathematical calculations are performed. To do this, you need to know the vertical distance from the ridge to the roof eaves (H) and the length of the segment between the upper and lower points of the slope horizontally (L). The formula for calculating the angle of inclination of the slope is as follows: i = H:L. The result obtained as a percentage is recognized by multiplying it by 100.

Minimum slopes and roof coverings

Before making a roof correctly, choose a roof covering based on the slope of the roof slope.

According to the regulatory documentation, the minimum slope should be:

for a surface of bituminous roll materials laid in 3 or 4 layers - from 0 to 3 degrees or 5 percent;
for a roof made of bituminous 2-layer roll coatings, no more than 15%;
if slate is used - 9 degrees or 16%;
for ondulin coating - at least 5 degrees;
when ceramic or bituminous tiles are used, the minimum slope should be 11 degrees;
in the case of using metal tiles - about 14 degrees.

Sprengel roofing system

The elements of the truss system are divided into parts, which are:

load, which applies to both the truss structure and the truss.

Arrangement of a roof with thermal insulation

The regulations governing how to properly make a roof provide for the creation of insulating layers to ensure reliable protection of the interior of the building.

The roofing "pie" looks like this:

the first layer, the lowest one, is a vapor barrier, it is necessary to protect the insulation;
the second layer is a heat-insulating material;
the third layer is a waterproofing film;
the fourth layer (finish) - roofing.

Experts advise before how to mount the roof, place a heater between the rafters. Most often, mineral wool is used, since it is durable, environmentally friendly, lightweight, and resistant to wear. Styrofoam, on the contrary, is not recommended for use due to high toxicity and flammability. The layer of heat-insulating material to be laid, depending on climatic conditions, should be from 5 to 10 centimeters.

Creating a ventilated roof

When creating a warm roof, it is required to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space, between the insulation and the roof. This is primarily due to the need:

preventing the formation of condensate on the crate from the cold attic;
ensuring the natural movement of air masses in the attic, by creating ventilation openings, exhaust shafts, special ventilation windows, etc.;
removal of moisture from the thermal insulation layer and wooden elements of the roof structure;
reducing the possibility of ice formation on the roof surface.

To ensure air entry, gaps are made on the lower surface of the eaves, the total width of which cannot be less than 20 millimeters if the filing is made of wood. When it is made of plastic siding or aluminum, perforated materials must be used for hemming.

In order for the air, which is helped by the difference in pressure to circulate, to leave the under-roof space, an exhaust ventilation outlet is arranged in the direction from the ridge to the eaves. It is made at a distance of about one meter from the ridge.

The height of the ventilation ducts and the dimensions of the ventilation inlets are made depending on the angle of inclination of the slope and the humidity of the inner roofing layers. If the slope of the roof does not exceed 5 degrees, then the height of the ventilation duct should be equal to 100 millimeters, when it is from 5 to 25 degrees - 60 millimeters. In the event that the size of the slope is 25-40 degrees - 50 millimeters, when the angle exceeds 45 degrees - more than 40 millimeters. The given values are relevant for a slope length of up to 10 meters. If this parameter is greater, then the height of the ventilation gap must be increased by 10% or the installation of aeration pipes should be provided. Such a ventilation gap parameter as height is at the same time the size of the bar for the counter rail. The standard length of the bars is 3 meters.

Before you put the roof on the house completely, on top of the waterproofing installed on the rafters, they mount the counter-rail using 90-mm sharp nails, they are hammered at a distance of about 5 centimeters from the edge, keeping a gap of no more than 50 centimeters.

How to equip roof overhangs, details in the video:

Arrangement of pipe junctions

The arrangement for bypassing the locations of pipes for different roofing is different. It is carried out using components for the roof. To make the connection of roofing materials to pipes correctly and aesthetically is a particularly important event. It is not difficult to cut slate or tiles, the installation of abutment causes more problems, because it is impossible to prevent future leaks.

For example, for metal tiles or metal profiles and similar materials, metal adjoining strips are used in accordance with the color of the coating. For roofs made from slate sheets, cheaper galvanized components are used.

In the case of laying bituminous tiles on the roof, the junction with the pipe is provided by the valley carpet. For natural tiles, a special adhesive tape is used along with a metal apron in accordance with the color of the roof covering.