Drywall partitions allow you to turn a large room into several small and functional ones: zone a nursery, separate the kitchen from the living room or dining room, isolate the hallway in the studio apartment, hide the toilet in the combined bathroom.
The device of interior partitions made of drywall suggests the presence of a doorway, an arch, or the creation of a false wall that does not completely cover the room. The material allows you to create a design of any configuration. At the same time, the construction of partitions from drywall sheets is a simple process and accessible to anyone who is able to hold tools in their hands. Let's consider how to mount the bulkhead from the GKL correctly and what is required for this.
If you know how to build a drywall partition, you can create a blank false wall, equip it with a door or archway, make windows or niches of an unusual shape.
Plasterboard sheets can be bent, which contributes to the construction of partition elements with volumetric edges.
To carry out the installation of a drywall partition quickly and without problems with your own hands, you need to proceed in stages. When installing a drywall partition with your own hands, use a simple step-by-step instruction:
The last step on how to make a high-quality drywall partition with your own hands is to remove the seams and attachment points of self-tapping screws with a sickle and putty.
A do-it-yourself drywall partition in places with changes in humidity and temperature should be made of a moisture-resistant material. The sheets are called GKLV and are painted green. To enhance the resistance to moisture, you should order the surface tiling with tiles or sheathe it yourself with plastic panels.
You can read more about how to make a drywall partition below.
Tools and materials
To create a partition structure from gypsum plasterboard, expensive materials and tools are not required. Everything you need is available in hardware stores at an affordable price.
materials
To create a partition of any configuration from drywall, a frame is required. It is assembled from a metal profile or wooden bars. The profile is preferable - it does not rot, practically does not deform, it is easier to attach, and at the same time it is identical in cost.
For different rooms and partition functions, you need to choose different types of plasterboards. If simple sheets are suitable in an ordinary room, then moisture-resistant ones should be preferred for the bathroom, and fire-resistant options (with a pink coating) for the kitchen.
What GKL for partition elements are:
Pay attention to the edge - it can be straight, thin, semicircular and rounded. The latter options allow you to better hide the seams due to the convenient filling with putty. This is important if a dense decorative finish, for example, with tiles, is not expected.
In addition to the metal profile and the drywall sheets themselves, the following fasteners and materials for the partition will be required:
- dowel-nails;
- rubberized seal;
- self-tapping screws for metal;
- putty for sealing seams;
- sickle for joints;
- self-tapping screws with a press washer.
You will also need an acrylic-based primer for processing before decorative finishing.
Required Tools
Before starting work, you should make a list of the tools necessary for the construction of the structure. You won't need many of them, and most are in every home workshop.
Basic tools needed:
- spatulas;
- regular or laser level;
- planers on GKL;
- metal scissors;
- roulette;
- hammer;
- screwdriver;
- hammer drill;
- metal ruler;
- marker.
You will also need a cutter to cut sheets of drywall. If there is no special cutter, a regular clerical knife will do.
Which insulation is better: polystyrene or mineral wool
To preserve heat and protect against the penetration of extraneous sounds, the inside of the partition is lined with special insulating materials.
Styrofoam or polystyrene allow you to quickly and efficiently insulate the false wall.
Their disadvantages are low mechanical strength and high fire hazard. And from an environmental point of view, this is not the best choice.
Mineral wool is a material with excellent insulating qualities, but its installation itself is a little more complicated and more expensive. But mineral wool is not subject to fire and is environmentally friendly.
Types of drywall profiles: dimensions, selection and scope
For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles. Guides are used to fasten the frame frame to the ceiling or floor. They are divided into four types depending on the section: from 5x4 cm to 10x4 cm.
The length of guide profiles of any thickness is 300 cm.
The vertical parts of the partition frame are also made from the profile. Such fittings are also subdivided according to the section into four types: minimum 5x5 cm, maximum 10x5 cm. The length of the rack profile is 300–400 cm.
Partition marking
When erecting a plasterboard partition, first of all, you need to mark the installation room according to a previously created drawing:
- First, we draw a perfectly flat line for attaching the guide to the floor.
- Further on this line we mark the location of the door opening - we do not install the profile here.
- We translate the line from the floor to the ceiling. To do this, you need a level and a plumb line.
- Using a laser level, we draw a straight line at the junction of the bulkhead to the walls from floor to ceiling.
According to these marks, the frame of the false wall is mounted. It is important to clearly measure the required distances and draw lines on the floor and ceiling so that they are in strict parallel to each other. Then the zoning element will be even, without distortions.
Assembly and installation of the frame
The next stage after the markup is the construction of the partition frame, that is, the fastening of the guide profiles to the floor, ceiling and walls. A rubber seal is placed between the wall and the profile.
It is necessary for tight mating of load-bearing walls with a bulkhead.
Also, the damper tape acts as a buffer during shrinkage or expansion of the plasterboard partition element, due to changes in temperature and humidity in the room. The tape will protect against cracking and deformation.
How to properly assemble the frame
After the manufacture of the frame for the partition is completed, an electrician is pulled inside it, if it is provided. This can be done after sheathing one of the sides, or before that. The wires are packed in corrugated tubes.
Overlapping the upper part of the door or window opening can be done in this way: mark the required length on the profile, adding 150 mm on each side. These will be some kind of guides. From the sides of the profile, according to the marks, we measure the angles of 45 ° and notch along the cut line. Then we bend the extreme parts towards the profiles to get a U-shaped design. We put this blank with bent "ears" on the racks, after which we raise it to the required height and fix it with self-tapping screws.
cutting drywall
The process is carried out with a special tool for cutting drywall. This will help the material not crack or break.
How to cut drywall? Cutting sheets is done in the following way:
- On the frame, the area that needs to be closed is measured.
- Then, using a tape measure and a pencil, a sheet of drywall is marked.
- Cutting is done with a special cutter or, in extreme cases, with a clerical knife so that the bottom paper layer remains intact. The sheet is broken along the notch and completely cut through on the reverse side.
- The chamfer is done in two ways: with a drywall planer or by removing the top layer of paper for the length and width of the seam.
When installing internal sockets or switches, after wiring the wires in drywall, holes for socket boxes are drilled with special crowns of the required diameter.
Drywall fixing
Sheathing of the partition frame with drywall is carried out using self-tapping screws 25–30 mm long and 150–200 mm apart and 15 mm from the edge of the sheet. The screw heads are recessed by 1 mm.
After facing with sheets of plasterboard on one side, they begin to lay thermal protection, sound insulation and install communications in the frame (if they have not been carried out earlier).
Drywall installation
When installing drywall sheets to the frame, it is taken into account that they should be less than the height of the walls and raised above the floor by 5–10 mm. To do this, use the same stands. The verticality of the installation is checked by level or rack profiles.
If you have planned the installation of shelves, hooks and other hanging accessories, you must pre-place wooden mortgages in these places.
Partition wall installation
The installation of a plasterboard partition is completed by the fact that insulating material is laid on the unlined side of the false wall, after which it is sheathed, like the first side. The position of the installed socket on the unsheathed side is determined in advance, since holes must be drilled before putting the GKL sheets.
What else is taken into account if you want to build plasterboard partitions:
- When installing vertical racks, we direct the stiffener towards the beginning of the frame sheathing. This is due to the fact that the first GKL sheet is fastened from the side of the rib, and the second and further - to the rest of the rack profile. If you do not make partitions using this technology, they can be deformed.
- If, in addition to erecting plasterboard partitions in the room, the entire perimeter of the plasterboard is lined, then the frame is first mounted in compliance with 90 ° angles.
- With a high height of the element being erected, the sheathing is performed in a checkerboard pattern.
A properly constructed false wall has rigidity, stability and visual appeal.
Drywall partition
Drywall partitions are extremely popular due to the ratio of price and quality. They allow you to delimit the room. In particular, the partition in the children's room will prevent territorial battles, and in the living room it will designate study and recreation areas.
Advantages and disadvantages of drywall partitions
Drywall is a relatively cheap and easily processed material. GKL partitions have many advantages:
- environmental friendliness;
- the ability to hide any communications;
- variability of finishing;
- light weight;
- good sound isolation;
- ease of installation;
The design does not require inclusion in the technical plan and approval in the BTI.
Cons: comparative fragility, susceptibility to moisture, difficulties in installing massive shelves or wall cabinets.
Features of plasterboard partitions
The bulkhead may be straight or curved. You can build several false walls connected to each other at an angle. The installation of such a structural element is the same as that of a straight bulkhead. On the ceiling and floor, the contour of the partition is indicated, along which the profiles are installed. At the junction of the elements at an angle, vertical profiles are placed on all sides of the walls.
Finishing
Making a drywall partition is not all. It is important to properly finish the finish. First of all, you need to seal the joints of the plasterboard with reinforcing tape and cover it with a starting putty, leveling the seams and removing excess finishing material.
fine finish
If the joints of the sheets fell on those gypsum boards where the chamfer was removed independently, a primer treatment is done before gluing the reinforcing tape. All puttied seams and attachment points are also primed.
Fine surface finishing consists of applying a thin layer of finishing putty with a wide spatula and sanding with fine-grained sandpaper after setting.
The plastered walls are primed again. After it dries, they begin to wallpaper or paint the surface of the walls.
Those who have already mounted plasterboard false walls on their own advise:
- Drill holes for wires at the same level if communications are supposed to be carried out.
- Insert a jumper from the profile into the metal frame if you are going to hang a picture or a lamp.
- If required, you can change the width of the partition - installation of profiles in two or more layers. The minimum thickness is a bulkhead on a single frame.
The installation of several layers improves the soundproofing and heat-insulating qualities of the partition element.
You can build a drywall false wall on your own in a few hours. You just need to adhere to all the nuances of technology.
September 28, 2016Specialization: a professional in the field of construction and repair (a full cycle of finishing work, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing work), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"
To figure out how to make a drywall partition - even the simplest one - is worth any master. The thing is that structures on a metal or wooden frame, sheathed with gypsum boards, have a quite acceptable load-bearing capacity, while they are quite easy to assemble, and, if necessary, just as easy to dismantle.
An additional advantage of such a solution is its economy: if we need to redevelop at minimal cost, then there is no better material to be found. Finally, the manufacture of drywall partitions is one of the most effective design techniques: by erecting one or more false walls, we can radically transform the room by dividing it into functional zones.
In any case, the technique is quite relevant, so the time that you need to study it will definitely be well spent. Moreover, below I have collected only the most important information, verified from personal experience.
What do you need to work
materials
When planning the construction of plasterboard partitions, we need to first take care of the materials. The key role here will be played by the drywall itself, as well as the profile for its installation:
- For sheathing, we purchase sheets of drywall with a thickness of 12.5 mm (GOST 6266-97 "Gypsum board sheets. Specifications"). As a rule, when constructing structures in residential and utility rooms, standard drywall is used, but when dividing the bathroom into a separate bathroom and toilet, it is better to take a moisture-resistant one. Although this material is more expensive, it better resists swelling when moistened.
- Separately, it is worth mentioning the fire-resistant gypsum board (GKLO) and the combined version, which provides resistance to both moisture and high temperatures (GKLVO). The scope of their application is very limited, since where there is a risk of ignition, such partitions are very rarely erected - but it must be borne in mind that such sheets also exist!
- I prefer to make a frame for a partition from a galvanized steel profile. For the perimeter, we need a guide profile (PN / UW) from 50 to 100 mm, for vertical supports - a rack profile (PS / CW), the width of which will correspond to the width of the guide elements.
The guide profile is available in panels of a standard length of 3 m. With a rack profile, everything is a little more complicated: there are products of 3, 3.5 and 4 m. You need to choose according to the height of the ceiling in the room, since vertical rack extension is highly undesirable. So be sure to take this into account when calculating!
- Sometimes, instead of a steel profile, a wooden beam impregnated with an antiseptic is used to make the frame. A partition made of bars and drywall can be cheaper, but in terms of strength it will be inferior to a structure with a metal base. In addition, wood is more prone to deformation, so I practically do not use this option. .
In addition to drywall and frame elements, we will need other materials for arranging the partition:
- suspensions and other fasteners for plasterboard;
- sealing tape, which is laid between the frame and supporting structures;
- fasteners (self-tapping screws, dowel-nails with plastic sleeves, etc.);
- wooden beam for decorating a doorway;
- perforated corner for designing the corners of the structure;
- primer for GKL;
- putty on drywall;
- serpyanka tape for gluing seams.
If necessary, the partition can be insulated or filled with a sound insulator - accordingly, for this you will need to purchase suitable materials (mats based on mineral fiber and analogues). It is also allowed to lay wiring inside such partitions: we will need the wires themselves, cable channels made of non-combustible material, socket boxes and bases for switches.
Tools
To fix the frame to the wall, concrete drills are needed
On the one hand, the construction of drywall partitions does not require the use of special devices, and therefore everyone can cope with this task. On the other hand, the set of tools for working with a profile and drywall is still extensive, and without it, work can become seriously complicated.
Be that as it may, I prefer to get down to business only with the following at hand:
- Perforator with a set of drills for concrete.
- Cordless screwdriver.
We immediately purchase a special bit-nozzle for GKL, which allows you to tighten the screws exactly to the desired depth. The price of this device is purely symbolic (100 - 150 rubles maximum), but how much time and nerves it saves!
- Crowns for cutting holes for the installation of sockets and switches.
- Scissors for metal (if a frame is being built from a bar - a saw for wood).
- Roulette.
- Level.
- Plumb.
- Hand tools - hammer, pliers, etc.
- Painting knife with replaceable blades.
- Drywall saw (you can do without it, but it is more convenient with it).
- Planer for cleaning the ends of the GKL and for jointing the seams between individual sheets.
- Brushes for priming the surface.
- Spatulas for finishing plasterboard.
Also, it will not be superfluous to think in advance how exactly we will carry out the sheathing. In standard houses or apartments, there are usually no difficulties, but in a room with a high (3 m or more) ceiling, you will have to use a special rack - otherwise it will not work to fix the profile and the sheathing under the very ceiling.
Information for budgeting
When designing a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to estimate the amount of financial costs in advance. If we plan to do everything with our own hands, then our budget will be limited only to the purchase and delivery of material. Of course, the cost of components for GKL partitions in different stores (and even more so in different regions) is different, but the general order of numbers can be found from the table I compiled:
| Material | unit of measurement | Average cost, rubles |
| Drywall standard | sheet 2500x1200x12.5 mm | 200 — 250 |
| – moisture resistant | — | 250 — 280 |
| – fire resistant | — | 300 — 450 |
| Guide profile PN | panel 3000 mm | 75 — 300 |
| Rack profile PS | panel 3000 – 4000 mm | 150 — 350 |
| Corner perforated profile | panel 300 mm | 40 — 125 |
| Hanger for straight profile | thing | 10 -30 |
| Single level connector | thing | 10 – 30 |
| Sickle ribbon | roll 20m x 50mm | 30 — 60 |
| Sealing tape | roll 20m x 50mm | 200 — 300 |
| Dowel-nail for fastening the profile | 200 pieces | 320 – 450 |
| Self-tapping screw for drywall | 1000 pieces | 250 – 500 |
| Putty Fugenfuller | Packing 25 kg | 350 — 550 |
| Putty Uniloft | Packing 25 kg | 1100 — 1500 |
Mounting technology
markup
So, we have finished with everything necessary, now let's look at how to make the partitions strong, even and beautiful. To date, the technology for mounting structures with plasterboard sheathing has been worked out very well and is described in sufficient detail in regulatory documents. In my work, I focus primarily on:
- SP 55-101-2000 "Enclosing structures using plasterboard sheets";
- SP 163.1325800.2014 "Constructions with the use of gypsum board and gypsum-fiber sheets, design and installation rules";
- VSN 27-95 "Instruction on the technology of installation and finishing of prefabricated plasterboard partitions on a metal frame of a piece-by-piece assembly", etc.
In addition, the work should take into account the fire safety rules (SNiP 2.01.02-85, SNiP 21-01-97 and similar documents).
Let's start with the markup:
- We free the room in which the structure will be installed - in any case, it will interfere with us. We dismantle all finishing materials: the frame must be installed exclusively on the bearing surfaces of the floor, walls and ceiling.
- On one wall, we set aside the distance we need twice: once - on the floor, the second time - on the ceiling. We connect the obtained points, controlling the verticality of the line with a plumb line.
- We repeat the operations on the opposite wall.
- On the floor and on the ceiling we connect the resulting verticals: we should get a rectangle, which will form the contour of our partition.
- In the selected place, we mark the boundaries of the passage. If it is planned to install a door, then we make the passage wider than required - we will need a margin of space for the door frame.
Drawing and calculations
After that, we make a drawing on a sheet of paper, transferring the actual dimensions of our partition to it.
Be sure to designate the front and back side of the structure in the drawing. If this is not done, then there is a risk “in the park” to lay a door or other opening on the wrong side from which you planned. There were precedents!
- On the drawing, we mark the attachment points of the vertical rack profiles. The optimal profile pitch is 60 or 40 cm (respectively, 2 or 3 racks per standard sheet of GKL 120 cm wide). It is undesirable to deviate from these figures, since in this way we will increase the consumption of material.
- Focusing on the drawing data, we calculate the number of profiles required for the construction of the frame. It is quite simple to consider the guide profile: we calculate the perimeter of the partition, divide the resulting figure by the length of one panel and round it up.
- With rack profiles, everything is somewhat more complicated. We need to determine the number of racks (each requires a separate profile panel) plus add the total length of the horizontal jumpers - they will be needed if we have to sheathe a partition with a height greater than a standard GKL sheet, i.e. over 2500 mm.
In the drawing, it is also worth “sketching” the layout of the sheets. I usually make two schemes - for the front and the wrong side. So it is much more convenient to adjust the placement of sheathing sheets, trying to ensure that the joints of the plates on different sides fall on different racks. For example, from the front surface, the joint falls on the third and fifth supports, and from the inside - on the second, fourth and sixth.
- When calculating, it is worth focusing on the configuration of your particular partition. To determine the material consumption, you can use the sketch above, illustrating the possible layout options for the GKL and the frame configuration.
After completing the calculations, we purchase the material, not forgetting about the stock: even experienced craftsmen have a marriage, and it is better to have an extra GKL sheet and an extra profile panel on hand.
Frame installation
Now I will tell you how to make a partition on a metal frame. We begin work with the installation of guide profiles:
- Using scissors, I cut the guide profile panel to the width of the room, after which I paste a sealing tape on its flat base.
- I lay the panel on the floor in such a way that one of its faces (often the front) runs exactly along the marking line.
- Using a puncher with a drill, I drill holes in increments of 40 to 60 cm. The depth of the hole should be equal to the length of the plastic dowel + 5-10 mm.
- I hammer a plastic dowel into each hole with a hammer so that its neck is tightly pressed against the metal.
- I fix the dowel with a locking screw with a conical point - first I hammer the fasteners with a hammer, and then I make two or three turns with a screwdriver or a screwdriver to tighten.
In a wooden house, it is better to install the frame not on dowels, but on wood screws. For fastening, I would recommend using phosphated fasteners with a wide head and deep thread, twisting it without pre-drilling - this will turn out to be many times more reliable.
- Using the same algorithm, I install guides on the walls and ceiling, forming a rectangular frame.
- Next, I attach the racks. I cut each part so that its length is 8-10 mm less than the height of the room, insert it into the guide profile and align it with a plumb line. After that, I fix the rack with self-tapping screws from below and from above.
The stiffener should look in the direction from which the skin begins. I usually fasten the sheets, moving from left to right, therefore I orient the profile with stiffeners to the left.
A little about fastening. Some craftsmen use special profile pliers instead of self-tapping screws, which work on the principle of a hole punch, punching a hole in the metal and bending the carved fragment for fixation. I tried it, but I didn’t find this device particularly convenient: it might just take some getting used to.
Another nuance concerns the hats of self-tapping screws. Sometimes (almost always) they make it difficult to press the GKL tightly against the profile, so I use a little trick: I attach the racks to the guide profile only on one side (from the inside). Then, when the GKL is sewn on the front side, I unscrew these screws and mount the wrong side trim. The rigidity of the connection, if it suffers, is insignificant.
I connect the racks with crossbars, which I install at the junction of the sheets horizontally.
- A few words should be said about the doorway. Vertical racks along its edges must be strengthened. To do this, we insert into them either one more section of the profile (the configuration of Knauf parts allows this), or we lay wooden bars, which we fasten with self-tapping screws.
- I do the door partition (lintel) like this: I cut off a fragment of the rack profile about 20 cm more than the width of the opening. I cut the side faces exactly according to the dimensions of the opening, after which I bend on each side along the resulting segment of 10 cm. I insert the part between the side posts of the doorway and fix it with self-tapping screws.
- Above the door lintel, I definitely put at least two vertical posts - on them I will join the sheathing sheets from different sides.
Now that the frame is ready, we proceed to the final operations. So, at this stage, I usually make holes in the racks and pass a cable channel through them with wires for sockets and switches.
GKL sheathing
Instructions for installing drywall sheets on a prepared frame are not difficult. If we have prepared the load-bearing elements taking into account all the requirements, then the skin will go smoothly. If something is missed - and this happens even with experienced craftsmen - then you will have to correct the situation on the go, fortunately, there are quite enough opportunities for this.
- So, we start work from one of the corners (in our case, the left one). We cut the sheet of drywall on one side, cutting off about 5 - 6 cm - this section is usually made with a bevel and rounding to form more reliable joints.
- Sheets are cut with a knife or saw. Of course, it is desirable to adapt a workbench or a durable long table for this, but if it doesn’t work out, you can simply cut the slabs on the floor, placing a wooden plank under the cut. It is best to cut from two sides: they cut the sheet almost through, gently broke it, turned it over and cut through the cardboard on the other side. So the ends will turn out more accurate.
- We apply the GKL sheet to the frame so that the distance between the lower edge and the floor is about 10 mm (protection from moisture). Using self-tapping screws for plasterboard, we fix the sheet on the frame. The optimal fastening step is 15 cm, while it is desirable to indent from the edge of the sheet at least 10 - 15 mm.
- For the reliability of fixing drywall on the profile, it is very important that the screws are tightened correctly. In this case, the hat should be recessed by 0.5 - 1 mm, but not break through the cardboard layer. It was to comply with this rule above that I recommended using a special bit with a limiter: a metal ring simply will not allow us to tighten the self-tapping screw more than necessary.
- The next important aspect is the joining of sheets. You can connect the edges only on the rack profile. The significant width of such parts makes it easier to fit (1-2 cm in one direction or another does not play a special role), but still, sometimes you have to trim the edges of the plasterboard. When trimming, it is desirable to clean the end with a special planer and immediately chop off its corners by 450 - this way we will greatly facilitate the process of puttying the joint.
- When joining any elements, remember that the attachment points and seams should not coincide. So, we twist the self-tapping screws on adjacent sheets “in a row”, and lay the drywall panels with a seam offset. For example, when installing a partition in a house with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, first we put a whole sheet from below, and a narrow strip from above, and then vice versa - a narrow fragment from below, and then a whole sheet to the ceiling.
- Having sheathed one side, we pass to the other. At this stage, it is convenient to lay heat and sound insulating panels into the frame, make holes for socket boxes and switches with wiring output, etc.
- On the other hand, we perform sheathing according to the same algorithm. At the same time, I would like to remind you once again: if a joint was fixed “from the front” on one rack, then from the inside, the joint should fall on the adjacent support.
Finishing sheathed structure
After the installation of drywall is completed, the interior partition must be prepared for finishing - painting, wallpapering, applying decorative plaster, etc. How to do all the operations at this stage correctly - I will tell below.
The whole process can be roughly divided into four tasks:
- Masking defects in flat areas of plasterboard sheathing.
- Masking of places of fastening of self-tapping screws.
- Sealing seams between sheets of plasterboard.
- Forming the corners of the structure.
Here it is best to work according to this scheme:
- First, we check if the self-tapping screws protrude above the drywall plane, and if necessary, we twist them. Let's not overdo it!
- We cut off the peeling of cardboard, after which we carefully clean such areas with sandpaper. We do the same with any defects on flat surfaces.
- If we have not done this before (very in vain!) - we embroider the seams. To do this, carefully cut off the edges of the docked slabs with a knife, exposing the gypsum layer.
The joint of two whole panels with rounded or beveled ends does not need to be additionally embroidered. In any case, I limit myself to one or two passes of coarse sandpaper for better grip.
- We process the surface for better adhesion.
- We prepare a fairly thick putty (or buy a ready-made one - it will be more expensive, but less fuss).
- Using putty as a thick glue, we glue a perforated corner profile on all corners, and strips of serpentine tape on all joints. We process these areas in such a way that the putty covers the sickle and the perforated corner. Completely filling all holes and cavities under them.
- We align the corners first on one side, then on the other. With a square, we control the perpendicularity of the resulting planes.
- We process flat areas with putty, masking all defects and places of fixation of self-tapping screws.
- At the final stage, we overwrite all surfaces with abrasive material. Large grains are enough for decorative plaster, but for wallpaper, and even more so for painting, after starting grinding, it is imperative to complete the finish - with a fine-grained mesh or sandpaper.
Plasterboards are a simple and economical way to zone a room and change the usual interior. In addition, the quality characteristics of this material are not inferior to the main walls. It is very difficult to divide a large space into functional areas without the help of specialists. But you can make beautiful drywall partitions with your own hands. Step-by-step instructions will become your real assistant and guide in this. So, let's start studying the useful properties of the material and gaining new skills in the installation of ergonomic partitions.
Read in the article
Scope of plasterboard partitions
Most likely, you have heard of such material as or drywall sheets. Now let's find out why you should choose drywall interior partitions for decoration.
GCR is a finishing material consisting of three composite layers. In this "sandwich", the middle layer is made of modified building gypsum with additional reinforcement. The outer layers are made of cardboard. For strength, special components are added to gypsum. Facing cardboard is the basis for finishing coatings.
The popularity of the design is due to its simplicity. Drywall sheets are fixed to the steel frame, and the internal cavities are filled with soundproof materials. The frame is made of horizontal, which are attached to the ceiling and floor surfaces.
Drywall is used in many areas. After all, from this material you can realize any configuration and size. For example, it will not be difficult to build a drywall partition with.
Related article:
From the publication you will learn the functions, types, materials of manufacture and varieties of partition structures, as well as find photo examples of glass, plasterboard, wood and other products.
There are the following partition options:
- arched, standard, on a double or single profile. This takes into account the features of the profile;
- decorative plasterboard partitions or functional walls;
- with openings or blind surfaces;
- sliding or fixed. It depends on the installation technique.
Decorative options are used to decorate the room, as well as masking interior flaws.
In addition to partitions, drywall is used. This allows you to make the surface perfectly smooth. You can also bring to life design ideas in the form. Niches from this material are also relevant. They can be installed or various souvenirs.
With the help of arched structures, you can create an original decor in the room. A plasterboard finish allows you to hide any wall defects from your eyes.
How an interior with plasterboard partitions can look like can be seen in this video:
For your information! Drywall is a versatile material. Light sources or insulation can be mounted on the surface from it.
Advantages and disadvantages of drywall partitions
More recently, partitions in residential premises were made of heavy material, which also involved complex installation work. But modern ones have become more sophisticated and attractive, thanks to the appearance of drywall on the construction market. We note its positive properties:
- GKL partitions have excellent sound insulation and are perfectly combined with different types of heat-insulating material;
- the sheets are very light, which reduces the load on the floors;
- the material has a flat surface, which allows it to be used as a basis for gluing, or;
- does not apply to combustible materials;
- GKL has hygroscopicity. The material perfectly absorbs moisture and lets air through;
- an important parameter is ease of installation, which will allow you to change the interior in the shortest possible time;
- The sheets contain natural ingredients that are safe for health.
The disadvantages include low strength compared to concrete, stone or brick structures. In addition, GKL is not very resistant to moisture.
Materials for the manufacture of interior plasterboard partitions
The main types of materials used in the installation of drywall partitions are the profiles and the GKL sheets themselves.
You can choose drywall of different types:
- standard GKL is distinguished by blue markings and gray. It is wall and ceiling;
- moisture resistant GKL is suitable for rooms with a high level. It is green;
- fire-resistant GKL is used to isolate electrical panels and. It has a pink color and red markings.
Here is how the doorway is formed:
- a wooden beam is inserted inside the rack-mount galvanized profile;
- then racks with bars are installed inside the guide profiles; using a level, it is necessary to control the verticality;
- the cross beam is made from a piece of rack profile. You also need to insert a timber beam into it;
- on the reverse sides of the crossbar and racks, you need to make holes for nails;
- with the help of nails, wooden elements inside the racks are fastened;
- the installation of the cross member is completed by twisting on the sides.
To understand the technology well, how to make a drywall partition in a room, do not forget about using a level. This device allows you to maintain the verticality of the elements during installation work.
Installation of vertical racks
An important step is the installation of vertical profiles. It is carried out as follows:
- marking is performed for the rack profile, it is marked along the width of the sheet. At the same time, there are 3 vertically mounted racks per plate;
- racks should be installed from the opening to the walls;
- the vertical profile should be checked with a level and fixed with self-tapping screws.
Installation of horizontal bars
Step-by-step installation with instructions: how to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands includes mounting the crossbars in a horizontal direction. To ensure structural rigidity, all vertical type guides must be fastened with horizontal jumpers. In this case, a step of 70 ÷ 80 cm is observed. The elements of the rack profile are attached to vertical posts. After the frame is assembled, wires are laid inside. They have separate holes. The wiring is laid inside the profiles in a special non-combustible insulation.
wiring device
The advantage of the GKL is that you can mount any. You need to worry about wiring in advance when the sheathing is done on one side. Cables lead inside in special ones, which contribute to better insulation. They pass through holes in the supporting profiles. After wiring, you can lay.
Cutting and bending drywall to the desired dimensions
Knowledge of how to cut the material so as not to damage it will also come in handy. Markings on the surface of drywall are best done with a simple pencil. Instead of a construction knife, you can use the usual stationery. First, cuts are made along the drawn lines, and then the material is cut. You can go around the edges with sandpaper.
Sheets can also be cut with a hacksaw. If the blade is thin, then it can be used to gently cut the sheet. has small chisels. With it, you can cut curly parts.
Laying plasterboard sheets on the resulting frame, fastening rules
Before you make a drywall partition, carefully study the technology for attaching drywall sheets:
- to cut the material, you can use a special knife. It is important to cut the gypsum layer as deep as possible, and then break the plate along the notch;
- cut edges must be processed with a knife or planer;
- sheets are fixed to the guides with self-tapping screws;
- when mounting the sheet, it is important to leave a gap at the bottom. It is necessary so that the sheets do not deform;
- soundproofing is carried out using isover or mineral wool. The layer is placed between the plates.
For your information! Do not forget to install bars in those places where you plan to mount shelves or niches.
Puttying and finishing
A starting layer is also applied to the stitched sheets. You can then reinforce the outer corners with perforated corners. Then putty is used. It is applied in a thin layer with two spatulas and polished. It is better to choose putty from one manufacturer.
After the coating has dried, you can also finish the finish. You can use , or .
Summing up, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for installing a drywall wall with your own hands in the table below:
| Illustration | Description of works |
 | The marking of the place where the partition will be mounted is carried out. The tape measure is pulled from the sewn surface to the area that has been selected. This marking is done on both sides. |
 | A laser level is used for accurate marking. The vertical function allows you to accurately beat off the markings under the side walls. The laser line must be moved to the mark that was made using a tape measure. Marking along the red line should be marked with a pencil. |
 | The guide profile is fixed with a puncher and dowel-nails. |
 | The profile is fixed on the other side. |
 | If the walls are old, then you can additionally strengthen the structure with the help of self-tapping screws, which are screwed in like a wedge between the metal and the dowel. |
 | On the floor, you also need to draw a line between the guides. If installation is supposed, then markup is also made under it. To do this, you need to measure the size of the box assembly and add 2 cm for the technical clearance. |
 | Then markings are made on the ceiling using the laser plumb function. One point of the laser should follow the drawn line on the floor. In this case, the second one will appear on the ceiling in the right place. |
 | The mark from the laser must be marked with a pencil. Using a laser level, marks are made on the ceiling every 50 cm. |
 | According to the markup, you need to fix the guide profile on the ceiling. In this case, you need to bypass communications. |
 | On the floor, the profile is fixed taking into account the place under the doorway. |
 | Rack profiles are installed at intervals of 40 cm and vertically. |
 | On the one hand, the profile is installed with a gap of 40 cm from the wall, and on the other, taking into account the space for the passage of communications. Also, two profiles are placed on both sides of the opening. The profiles near the doorway are placed with the back side out. All profiles must stand vertically. This needs to be checked again with a laser fixture. |
 | Then you need to fix the vertical racks, for this a profile cutter is used. The profile must be fixed on both sides. |
Drywall partition, characteristics of materials, advantages and disadvantages of the design, development of its scheme, installation of the frame and its sheathing, arrangement of a doorway and preliminary surface finishing.
Advantages and disadvantages of drywall partitions
Not so long ago, all partitions in residential buildings were built exclusively of brick, concrete or blocks. But after the appearance of gypsum plasterboard materials on the construction market, the situation changed radically due to their remarkable properties:
- GKL partitions on a metal or wooden frame have excellent sound insulation, especially in combination with a heater, which in this case plays an additional role. A single-layer cladding of a plasterboard partition has a sound absorption coefficient of up to 47 dB, and its second layer makes this indicator even better.
- Unlike concrete and stone partitions, gypsum boards and metal profiles that make up similar structures are very light. On average, 1 m 2 of a GCR wall weighs 25-50 kg, depending on its thickness. This allows you to significantly reduce the load on the floors of the building and save, for example, on fittings, mortar and the delivery of materials.
- Plasterboard sheets have an initially flat surface, which is good for further finishing: paint, wallpaper, decorative plaster and even tiles.
- GKL is not included in the category of combustible materials, so it is safe in case of fire.
- Its hygroscopicity allows you to stabilize the microclimate of the room, since the material is able not only to pass air, but also to absorb excess moisture.
- An important indicator of plasterboard partitions is the ease of installation. For this reason, in a couple of days you can transform the room beyond recognition. Moreover, it is quite within the power of a home master who has at least elementary skills in construction to do this.
- The composition of drywall sheets includes only natural ingredients, so the material is absolutely harmless to health.
The material does not tolerate direct contact with water. In case of accidental flooding of the premises, part of the sheathing of plasterboard partitions will have to be changed. On this, perhaps, all the shortcomings of drywall end.
Selection of materials for partitions from plasterboard
The main materials used for the installation of drywall partitions are light metal profiles and plasterboard. The profiles that form the frame differ in cross-sectional dimensions and functional purpose:
- Guide profile PN (UD). Made in the form of a thin-walled channel. Its width can be from 50 to 100 mm, the size of the shelves is 40 mm. These parameters are always indicated in the marking, for example: PN40-75, where 40 is the width of the shelf, and 75 is the profile. The guide profiles fix the racks of the metal frame of the partition.
- Rack profile PS(CD). It differs from PN by the presence of special locks-bends on the shelves and has a similar marking. Rack profiles serve to stiffen the structure and fasten gypsum boards (gypsum boards) to them.
- Angle profile. It is used in the design of the outer corners of the partition and protects them from mechanical damage.
- arched profile. It is used to create openings of any curvilinear shape.
- lighthouse profile. It has a T-shape and serves as a guide when leveling the walls.
Plasterboard sheets with which the frame is sheathed must have a thickness of at least 12.5 mm. In the manufacture of a curved opening in the partition, thin sheets up to 12.5 mm are used for the convenience of giving the structure the desired shape. Drywall is divided into types:
- Standard GKL. This is the most common material, has a gray color and blue markings. It can be ceiling and wall. Ceiling plasterboard sheets are always thinner.
- Moisture resistant GKL. It is used in the manufacture of partitions for separating wet rooms. It has a green color and blue markings.
- Fire-resistant GKL. It is used to isolate ventilation shafts or electrical panels. It is gray in color with a red marking.
When choosing a GKL, you should pay attention to its purpose, and not just to the thickness of the products. This will help to greatly increase the durability of the entire structure during its operation.
Creating a drywall partition drawing
The working scheme of a plasterboard partition is necessary when planning the design of the required rigidity and volume, as well as to determine the types and quantities of materials needed for its manufacture. Complex calculations are not required here.
Before you make a drywall partition, you first need to draw a scale plan of the room on paper, indicating its height, length and width, and then mark the location line of the future partition on it. After that, you should perform a frontal sketch of the wall and put on it the location of the bearing profiles and the plasterboard, arranged in a checkerboard pattern. At their joints, it is necessary to provide for the installation of horizontal jumpers.
The number of rack profiles, as well as their location, depends on the planned load on the structure. Sheathing of the outer and inner sides of the partition should be done so that the edges of the sheets are located on different profiles.
For example, if on one side of the wall the joints of the sheets are on the third, fifth and seventh racks, then on its other side they should be located on the second, fourth and sixth with a step between the racks of 600 mm. All this must be taken into account when making a drawing of a plasterboard partition for zoning a common room.
Important! The attachment points on the partition of furniture or decor items must be reinforced at the stage of creating the frame with additional profiles.
Installation of a frame for a plasterboard partition
After drawing up a diagram of a plasterboard enclosing structure, counting and selecting the necessary materials, you can begin to manufacture a metal frame. The set of tools used for this job is not that great. This is a tape measure, a plumb line, a level and a marker, a hammer, a clerical knife, self-tapping screws, dowels, a screwdriver, metal scissors and a puncher.
According to the partition layout plan, it is necessary to measure the required distance from the nearest wall in several places and draw lines along the ceiling and floor. When connecting their ends on both walls, a closed loop will be obtained. Its sides must be strictly vertical, this must be checked with a plumb line.
Then, sealing tape should be glued on the guide profiles and fixed, guided by the markings made. To do this, it is required in advance to make holes for the dowels with a perforator along the lines of the ceiling and floor.
The fastening step of the PN profiles should not be more than 1 m. The size of the dowels depends on the material of the walls. To fasten the profiles to a concrete slab, you can use "Quick installation" dowels 75 mm long, and to a wooden floor - ordinary screws 45-50 mm. Profiles should be cut to the required dimensions with metal scissors, and in their absence, you can use the "grinder".
To install a drywall partition, the first rack should be placed close to the wall. It is fastened to the guide profiles with the help of a cutter. It is also desirable to paste over the rack with sealing tape at the junction with the main structure to increase the heat and sound insulation of the future partition.
After installing the first profile, you need to check its verticality with a level, and then attach the rack to the load-bearing wall with dowels. For concrete walls, their length should be 75 mm.
Then you should install all the other racks. Their number and step depend on the planned load on the partition. With its decorative purpose, the profile pitch can be taken 1200 mm. If a cabinet will hang on the wall, then the distance between the rack profiles should be taken 400 mm.
Typically, racks are mounted under the middle or edges of the sheet, that is, in increments of 600 mm. And only the second rack is installed at a distance of 200-500 mm from the extreme profile. This is due to the fact that thinning will be cut off from the sheet, making it narrower. At any distance between the vertical profiles, the edges of the plasterboard should always fall exactly on the center of the rack.
On both sides, each rack profile must be attached with a cutter to the guides. In the process of placing the racks, you should ensure that a too narrow piece of drywall sheet does not have to be fixed in the corner of the partition. This can create a problem later in the process and contribute to cracking.
Jumpers must be installed at the locations of the horizontal seams of the GKL. To do this, you need to cut off pieces of the profile 100 mm long with metal scissors and attach them to the racks at the required height. Then the horizontal profile must be inserted inside and fixed with a cutter. This completes the installation of the frame.
Sheathing the partition frame with drywall
Installation of the first sheathing sheet must begin with cutting its thin part along the length. Such thinning on the remaining sheets will be necessary to mask the joints of the plasterboard after their installation and puttying. The first sheet must be attached to the frame so that its entire edge coincides with the center of the profile. Then the GKL should be fixed with self-tapping screws 25 mm long.
Along the edges of the sheet, their fastening step should be 150-200 mm, and in the middle part - up to 300 mm. Self-tapping screws should not be screwed into the corners of the sheets, it is better to step back from them by 5-10 cm. The rest of the skin is attached according to the developed scheme.
When installing a plasterboard partition with your own hands, you need to take into account several rules:
- Be sure to leave the necessary deformation gaps of the skin: between the plasterboard and the floor - 1 cm, between the plasterboard and the ceiling - 0.5 cm, between adjacent sheets - 2 mm.
- It is recommended to avoid cruciform joints in every possible way, such an arrangement of sheets violates the strength of the partition.
- If one side of the structure is sheathed from left to right, then the cladding of the frame on the other side must be done in the reverse order. This will prevent the GKL seams from matching on one frame rack.
Installation of a doorway in a plasterboard partition
If a plasterboard partition with a door is planned, work should start from the opening. After fixing the guide profiles, you need to install rack-mounted reinforced profiles for it.
It will be easier if you take a bar of the desired length and a thickness slightly less than the width of the metal rack and insert it into the cavity of the doorway profiles. That is, when installing a partition from a profile w. 100 mm, a beam 95 mm thick is taken, inserted into the rack and fastened in it with wood screws in increments of 150-200 mm.
In the absence of a bar, the racks can be reinforced with a guide profile. To do this, it should be connected to the rack using metal screws. Then, according to the principle described above, you need to fix all the other vertical profiles.
The installation of the door lintel between two reinforced posts is carried out in this way. At each end of the jumper profile, it is necessary to measure 100 mm and notch only its shelves. Then, at the incision site, the profile must be bent 90 degrees - that's it, the jumper is ready. It remains to screw it over the opening at the desired height from the floor. When installing a heavy door, the upper part of the opening should also be strengthened.
Features of finishing plasterboard partitions
After the installation of the partition is completed, it should be prepared for exterior decoration. The joints of drywall sheets are reinforced with sickle tape and sealed with gypsum putty. The outer corners of the partition must be reinforced with a metal perforated corner, which is fixed with the same mixture. Hats of self-tapping screws should be hidden under putty.
After the putty has dried at the joints, corners and fasteners, the entire surface of the partition must be treated with a primer to ensure adhesion with a subsequent layer of finish.
Then a continuous putty is performed on both sides of the partition. Under its decoration with wallpaper, it is enough to apply a starting layer of a coarse-grained mixture - it will give the surface the desired roughness. To prepare the surface for painting, you will need an additional layer of fine-grained finishing putty. The work is done with a wide spatula in arcuate movements.
After the end of this process, it is necessary to wait for the time for the applied mixture to dry, and then sand the surface. For grouting, special abrasive meshes No. 100-150 are used. The resulting plaster dust can be removed immediately with an industrial vacuum cleaner. In its absence, the respiratory system should be protected with a respirator. The result of the work should be a smooth partition, ready for decoration with any coating.
How to make a drywall partition - look at the video:
In this way, plasterboard partitions can make the layout of any standard apartment original, not to mention the possibility of using them in a private house. Good luck!
Gypsum board in our time is extremely popular among professionals and amateurs, and is increasingly used in the installation of partitions and wall cladding in apartments and houses. Due to its lightness, the material can be freely used in multi-storey buildings or on the second floor or attic of a private house - this design will not exert a significant load on the floor. Ease of installation makes it possible for novice builders to independently install a partition or wall sheathing.
A do-it-yourself drywall partition can be installed after studying the sequence and rules of the process, familiarizing yourself with the nuances of working with this material.
It should be noted that drywall is used for mounting both blank walls and partitions with windows of various shapes. Its ability to take the desired shape, under the right conditions for this, makes it possible to make or arrange windows in partitions of a round or other curvilinear shape.
The ability of drywall sheets to undergo planned plastic deformation makes it possible to mount partitions with volumetric edges and with the arrangement of original shelves that can withstand rows of books or the installation of household appliances in them.
Partition with additional functions - shelves for books and household appliances If earlier bulky standard furniture had to be dragged into the apartment, today, using drywall, you can create exclusive wall options that immediately perform two functions - a room space divider and a piece of furniture. It turns out a double saving of money and space, which is especially important for not too spacious apartments.
Materials for installing plasterboard partitions
What do you need to have to create such a partition, except for the main material - drywall?
All necessary materials are very easy to use and affordable Of the additional materials, you need very little, and what is very important - all the necessary components for mounting such a wall have a very affordable price.
Another advantage of all materials for creating a plasterboard partition is that they will not pollute the premises of a house or apartment in the way that, for example, concrete mortars can do.
So, if you take into account all the possible options, then for the installation of the partition you will need:
- Propertyno, GVL themselves. Ordinary drywall, having a thickness of 12 mm - the most optimal option for partitions in rooms with normal humidity. When installing walls that will separate the bathroom, kitchen, bathroom, you will need a moisture-resistant drywall that has a soft green color - this is how the manufacturer highlights its functional features. There are other types of drywall, from which you can choose the right one, depending on the location of the partition and on its shape.
| Drywall brand | Thickness in mm | Size in mm |
|---|---|---|
| GKL (normal) | 12.5 | 2500×1200 |
| GKLV (moisture resistant) | 12.5 | 2500×1200 |
| GKLO (fire resistant) | 12.5 | 2500×1200 |
| GKLO (fire resistant) | 12.5 | 2600×1200 |
| GKL (with a straight edge) | 12.5 | 2500×1200 |
| GKL (flexible) | 6 | 2400×1200 |
- Metal profile and wooden bars for the frame, having a width of 75 mm, if between two canvases will be installed soundproofing material, and 50 mm if the space between the drywall sheets remains hollow or will fit thin insulation. In general, we can say that the profile width sets the wall thickness parameter.
- Self-tapping screws for metal structures and for wooden parts.
- Fiberglass mesh-serpyanka for reinforcing joints.
- Gypsum-based putty, starting and finishing - for sealing joints and eliminating surface defects.
It can be determined from this table, but it is recommended by experienced builders to take it more by 15% than will be calculated.
| № | Material name | unit of measurement | The consumption rate of materials per 1 sq. m |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1. | Drywall | sq.m. | 1 |
| 2. | Profile CD 60 | running meters | 2 |
| 3. | Profile UD 27 | running meters | 2 |
| 4. | U-shaped universal bracket for mounting the material on the ceiling | PC. | 1.32 |
| 5. | Sealing tape | linear m | 0.85 |
| 6. | Dowel 6/40 mm | PC. | 2.2 |
| 7. | Self-tapping screw 3.5 × 9.5 (flea) | PC. | 2.7 |
| 8. | Self-tapping screw 3.5 × 25 (for drywall) | PC. | 12 |
| 9. | Longitudinal connection for profile CD | PC. | 0.2 |
| 10. | Fiberglass mesh-serpyanka | linear m | 1.1 |
| 11. | Putty for joints (starting) | kg | 0.3 |
| 12. | Deep penetration primer | liters | 0.1 |
| 13. | Putty for the surface of drywall sheets (finishing) | kg | 1.2 |
Tools needed for the job
When installing a plasterboard partition, you can not do without some tools, the list of which includes:
- A screwdriver is a must, as you will have to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws, and with an ordinary screwdriver do this work will be extremely difficult.
- A long, preferably metal ruler, for marking and cutting drywall sheets along it.
- A construction square will be needed for marking and for checking the correct installation of parts during installation.
- Building level - to determine the horizontal and vertical planes and racks of the frame.
- Plumb - is necessary to determine the ideal vertical, by combining the points marked on the ceiling and on the floor.
- Pencil - for marking.
- Metal shears - used to prepare blanks of the required length, for cutting notches on a metal profile.
- Electric jigsaw - for cutting off the necessary fragments of the bar and cutting drywall sheets, especially along curved markings.
- Spatula of medium width - for sealing joints with putty.
- Grater with fine and medium-grained sandpaper - for leveling putty on the seams and on the surface of GVL sheets.
- Primer - for processing the finished partition before painting.
- A knife or hacksaw with a fine tooth for drywall, a construction knife with replaceable blades.
- Planer with a beveled blade for chamfering.
- It would be nice to have a riveter for fastening a metal profile - this will greatly facilitate and speed up the work.
- Electric drill with a set of drills.
- A spiked roller will be needed if it is planned to give drywall curvilinear spatial forms.
- Folding ruler and tape measure.
- Hammer for driving dowels, screwdrivers for mounting the frame.
All these tools and fixtures are quite available for purchase in hardware stores.
Prices for drywall and sheet materials
Drywall and sheet materials
Frame installation
Any construction work begins with measurements of the installation site, calculations and marking, and the installation of a partition is no exception.
markup
- It is most convenient to start marking on the floor. With the help of a building corner, a long ruler (building level, rules) and a pencil, a perfectly even line is outlined and drawn.
A metal profile guide will subsequently be attached along this line.
- The location of the doorway is immediately marked on this line - the guide will not be attached to this segment. The doorway is positioned in such a way that a certain piece of furniture can be placed on one or two sides - this must also be foreseen in advance.
- Now you need to project a line from the floor to the ceiling - this process is carried out using a plumb line, and in this case an assistant will be needed.
Transferring a point to the ceiling using a plumb line - top view ... Having climbed the stairs, the assistant lowers the plumb line down, and presses its other end against the ceiling in the approximate area where the line passes.
... and at the same time - from below The master marks a point on the floor with a cross, which needs to be projected onto the ceiling, the assistant slowly moves the suspension cord along the sense until the plumb-line cone ideally matches the point marked on the floor. When the target is reached, a mark is made on the point found on the ceiling. Thus, three points are found on the ceiling.
- In addition, vertical lines are drawn on the walls at right angles from the edges of the line on the floor to the ceiling - they will determine the beginning and end of the horizontal projection line.
- Having determined the points on the ceiling, a straight horizontal line is drawn along them - a guide will be fixed along it.
These two lines are very important, since the verticality of the future wall will depend on them. Therefore, their markup must be carried out with special care.
Frame installation
- The next step is the installation of guide profiles.
First, the profile is fixed along the line on the floor using dowels. As already mentioned, space is left for the doorway.
The holes for the dowels are drilled through the laid guides. Then they are removed, plastic plugs-dowels are hammered into the holes.
Hole done... 
... and a dowel is driven into it - The next step is to install the guides on the walls along the previously marked vertical lines. During the installation process, the position is constantly checked by level in order to prevent even the slightest play to the side.
The rest is exactly the same, but with constant control of verticality. The bottom of the vertical profile is inserted into a horizontal rail mounted on the floor.
If the walls are concrete, then the fixing process takes place in the same way as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then dowels are not required for them. Self-tapping screws are screwed through the guides directly into the walls.
- Further, the guide is fixed to the ceiling in the same way as on the floors. Self-tapping screws are screwed in at a distance of 250 ÷ 300 mm from each other. The connections between the vertical and horizontal profile on the ceiling are made in the same way as on the floor - using self-tapping screws or using a riveter.
Step between dowels - 250-300 mm - The next step is to determine and mark on the ceiling profile the location of the doorway, based on the bottom markings. This is done in the same way as before - with the help of a plumb line.
Height measurements are taken for the manufacture of guides that will be installed on the sides of the doorway. On standard profiles, the required length is marked, the required blanks are cut.
Now they need to be installed so that they designate a doorway.
- The guides around the doorway are reinforced with wooden bars that are inserted directly into them and screwed with self-tapping screws. Or, for the stability of the structure, another reinforcing profile is installed next to the first profile.
- After installing and strengthening the vertical profiles, the height of the doorway is measured on them. According to these marks, a horizontal crossbar is screwed from the desired section of the profile, and then a wooden beam is also inserted into it, to which vertical racks are screwed. Long self-tapping screws are screwed into the end of the crossbar, installed horizontally.
- Next, the space between the doorway and the walls is measured, and then the number of vertical posts is calculated, which must be fixed at a distance of about 300 ÷ 600 mm from each other.
Then the required number of blanks of the required length is cut. Racks are installed with their ends inside the guides on the floor and ceiling, with obligatory leveling. Fasten the profiles at the joints with self-tapping screws with large hats or rivets.
- For greater rigidity, especially with high ceilings, horizontal bars are also installed between the vertical posts.
electrical wiring
After the frame is fully assembled, electrical wiring is arranged inside it, if it is provided.
Wiring can be carried out after fixing the drywall on one side of the frame, or before that.
Holes are drilled in metal profiles through which wires are pulled, enclosed in insulating corrugated or smooth tubes. The ends of the wires are left outside.
Electric cable prices
Electrical cable
Cutting and fixing drywall
- After wiring, drywall is fixed on one side of the frame. It is screwed with black self-tapping screws specially designed for this purpose. At the same time, the heads of the self-tapping screws should go deep into the GKL by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.
- If necessary, this process is carried out as follows:
- measurements are taken of the place that needs to be closed on the frame;
- then, the cut can be made with a knife for cutting paper or drywall, as well as with a conventional hand saw;
Cutting drywall is easy - if the cut is made with a knife, then the blade is driven along the established ruler, so that the top layer of cardboard and gypsum is cut through, but the bottom layer of cardboard remains intact;
- then, the sheet is bent along the intended line, and cut to the end at the place of the fold with a knife.
Ideally, there should be a chamfer at the joints - The edge of the cut will not have a chamfer, and this is undesirable when sealing seams. The chamfer is made using a planer with a beveled knife.
- If it is planned to install sockets or switches in the partition, after wiring in drywall, holes are cut out with the help of special crowns of the required diameter, through which wires are brought out to connect the sockets after the partition is fully installed. However, on the finished half of the partition, you can install boxes for switches right away - it will be even more convenient.
Installation of boxes - socket boxes - Upon completion of the installation of the material on one side of the frame, on its open side, it is laid between the guides. Usually mineral wool or isover is used for this process, and expanded polystyrene can also be used. Leaving the cavity empty is not recommended. It's not even about keeping warm - sometimes such a function is not needed. It is more important that the hollow wall does not become a sound resonator - the thermal insulation material here, rather, will play a role.
- Further, the second side of the frame is sewn up with drywall, in the same way as the first. If the sockets and the switch will be installed on this side of the wall, then their position is calculated in advance, the holes are cut out before the material is fixed to the frame. The wires for them are brought to the place where the hole will be located, and after installing the drywall they are brought out.
Door frame installation
- When the partition is ready, a box is installed in the doorway to hang the door.
- A wooden jamb with hinges already installed is leveled and fixed with powerful self-tapping screws in three or four places to the opening posts. Since wooden bars were previously installed in them, the jamb will be securely fixed.
- The heads of the self-tapping screws must be deepened into the thickness of the wooden racks of the box; for this, holes are pre-drilled in it “under zatay».
- Next, a door is hung on the installed box. Usually, the door leaf for such a design is selected as light as possible in weight so that it does not pull the partition to one side or the other. If the doorway is properly mounted and reinforced, then there should be no problems with the installation and operation of the door.
- If it turned out that the doorway turned out to be larger than necessary, then wooden spacers are installed between the racks of the partition and the jamb. It is desirable that it be thick plywood, as it will not crack when the door frame is screwed through it to the pillars. The remaining gaps between the jamb and the uprights in this case are filled with mounting foam. The foam must be allowed to expand and dry, after which it is cut off with a sharp construction knife.
The gap under the threshold is sealed with sealant.
Sealing joints on the surface of the partition
After installation is complete completed, you can proceed to sealing the joints of drywall sheets.
To do this, you need a grid-serpyanka. It is advisable to purchase a roll with glue already applied so that the mesh easily sticks to the cardboard surface.
- The mesh is glued to all, without exception, joints.
- Further, with the help of a spatula and starting putty, the joints are sealed, if possible, the seams to the ideal and removing all excess sealing material.
- When embedding joints between those sheets on which self-chamfering was carried out, before gluing the sickle, processing is done with a primer. It should dry well, and only after that you can stick the sickle and apply putty.
- Gaps around the doorway, sealed with mounting foam, it is also better to first impregnate with a primer, and then close up, like all other joints.
- In addition, it is imperative to seal the holes left from the caps of the screws with putty, otherwise they may appear through the decorative rust coating. After sealing the screws, the structure is left to dry completely.
- After the putty dries in certain parts of the partition, it should be completely covered. This coating will give the surface better adhesion, and the finishing putty will lie flat on the wall.
- Further, the dried surface is completely covered with a thin layer of finishing putty - this can be done with a wide spatula. The surface is leveled to the maximum so that there are no deep grooves from moving with a spatula.
- Further, after waiting for the putty layer to dry, it must be processed with a grater with the installed notnot and fine-grained sandpaper. Then, if necessary, another layer of putty is applied, which is also dried and processed with fine sandpaper.
- Before applying the decorative coating, the aligned walls are once again impregnated with a primer. Only after it dries, you can proceed to or paint the surface of the walls.
Video: installing a light drywall partition in the attic
If it's time to redevelop the attic or a large room on the ground floor, there is no doubt in choosing this particular method for building a partition. If you act in stages, following all the recommendations, then even the most inexperienced novice builder will be able to cope with this process on their own. Well, with the exception of some stages, when it is simply impossible to do without an assistant.