Time is moving inexorably towards autumn, which means it's time to think not only about harvesting and harvesting, but also about building warm beds for the next season. In the spring, they will be an excellent help: due to the heat that the “stuffing” of such a bed gives off, comfortable conditions are created for early sowing and planting heat-loving vegetables. So let's get started...
In high wooden boxes you can equip warm beds
There are options?
In fact, there are many options for arranging a warm garden bed. For example, you can do it buried. In this case, the sod is removed at the chosen place and a trench is dug, into which organic raw materials are then laid. Such a bed only slightly rises above the main level of the soil or is located flush with it.It is clear that in areas where meltwater stagnates in spring or groundwater is located close to the surface, this option cannot be used. But if you choose a dry place that is not flooded even by prolonged downpours, this method of arrangement will save you money (materials for building sides are not needed), time and effort (a deep-seated bed will need watering less often than a raised one).
Bed-box. Photo from svoimi-rykami.ru
Another variant - raised warm bed. An ideal solution for areas suffering from spring flooding and excess moisture during the season. In this case, having removed the top layer of turf (and someone believes that this procedure is also a waste of energy: the grass still has no chance), they install a fence from any material at hand and fill the resulting box. We have already talked about how and from what it is possible to build, so we are moving on.
One of the varieties of raised warm beds is a structure in the form elongated hill. In this case, the sides are not made, and the edges of the beds are rounded. How it looks, you can clearly see in the picture that I found on the Internet:
It is believed that a hill-bed, in addition to other advantages and benefits, allows you to increase the usable area, because for crops its entire surface is used, which is noticeably larger than the base of such a ridge.
matter of principle
In fact, no matter what form we give to a warm garden bed, the principle of its construction remains unchanged, so the main thing is to understand it, and then you can improvise at your discretion.A warm bed is essentially a kind of “layer cake” stuffed with heterogeneous organic matter. Due to the gradual decomposition of this raw material, on the one hand, plant nutrition is provided, and on the other hand, soil heating (as we remember, a significant amount of heat is released during the decomposition of organic residues).
In terms of technology a warm bed is a slightly modified compost heap. In both cases, in order for the processing of the deposited waste to proceed correctly, molds, unpleasant odors, and pathogens do not multiply, it is important to keep the raw materials moist and not interfere with air exchange.
Hence the first important rules:
- large, coarse, long-rotting waste is laid at the base of the bed: branches, strong stems of plants (corn, sunflower, Jerusalem artichoke), wood trimmings and the like - they will serve as drainage and provide air flow; the layer is loose, about 40 - 45 cm high;
- before laying each next layer, the previous one is thoroughly watered; during the season, a warm bed needs watering more often than a regular one - its “stuffing” should not dry out;
- to fill the beds use only the waste of healthy plants, not affected by pests and diseases, without seeds.
Scheme of filling a warm bed. Image from small-village.com
Consistently, in layers, we put heterogeneous raw materials into a box or trench. I repeat: this scheme is only an illustration of the principle, it is not at all necessary to repeat the layers shown exactly - use what is at hand. For example, here's another option:
More often, plant residues are laid on top of coarse wood waste: vegetable tops, mowed weeds, peelings, flower stems, and so on. If the sod was removed, it is also laid inside the beds, placing the grass down. Here it is important that the plant mass does not stick together, blocking access to air, therefore, if the raw material is juicy, wet, it is interbedded with straw or chopped branches of shrubs.
Next, it would be nice to lay a layer of fallen leaves, ideally 15 centimeters thick. But the ideal is most often unattainable (unless you have adult deciduous trees growing near the site that can provide valuable raw materials in abundance). The leaves are tamped and watered, and rotted manure or mature compost is placed on top.
The top layer (usually 15-20 cm thick) is ordinary garden or turf soil, often mixed with compost.
If you were engaged in arranging a warm garden bed with your own hands in early autumn, it is advisable cover it with black film immediately upon completion of work - this way you will save your work from the ubiquitous seeds of weeds, which are perfectly carried by the wind and will sprout with pleasure on carefully prepared fertile soil.
Another important nuance: the “stuffing” of a warm bed is a cozy haven for rodents. So that they do not settle in you for the winter, and next year they do not encroach on the harvest, the bottom of the structure is desirable cover with fine-mesh metal mesh.
What to plant?
A warm bed, as a rule, is used 3-4 years in a row, but it will bring maximum benefit only if planting is planned correctly.1 year: the bed is saturated with nutrients, and the intensive decomposition of organic raw materials gives a lot of heat. These are ideal conditions for pumpkins, zucchini and cucumber- they are worth planting.
2nd year: a lot of food; can be planted again cucumbers and zucchini, will feel good in the garden and cabbage, tomatoes. Strongly Not recommended in the first two years, sow vegetable crops in a warm bed that tend to accumulate nitrates: beets and chard, radishes, lettuce.
3 year: enough food supplies for cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, beans; can be planted potato, sow beets, carrots, salad crops.
4 year: without additional dressings in the garden, only crops that are undemanding to nutrition will grow well. Can be grown greens, peas.
By this time, the soil will noticeably settle, and the supply of nutrients is almost completely exhausted, but the remaining contents can be added to garden and garden soil to improve its structure. And in the vacant place to lay a new warm bed.
This year I'm going to make a raised warm bed especially for early cucumbers. It will be interesting to know the experience of those who have been using such facilities for a long time - are you satisfied with the results?
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Have you ever had a neighbor in a summer cottage or garden plot who started planting seedlings back in March, while no cold or other problems prevented him from achieving a good harvest with large fruits? If there was or even is now, then this is a very experienced summer resident who knows exactly how to make warm beds in a greenhouse with his own hands, because it is with their help that he achieves such results. There is nothing too complicated about this, the instructions and recommendations below will help you.
Let's start with the basics. A warm bed differs from the usual one in that an elevated temperature is created in it in a certain way, which is optimal for the growth of crops, even if there are frosts or real colds "overboard" of the greenhouse. Thanks to this design, gardeners get the opportunity to start the summer season in March-April, despite the remaining snow, unheated ground, temperatures below zero and unpredictable weather.
The most popular warm bed options are those that use "biofuel" in the form of compost or manure to heat plants and their root systems. But this will be discussed in more detail below, and now we will consider what are the advantages of warm beds in a greenhouse, whether they justify the time and effort spent.
- The opportunity to start planting seedlings in the greenhouse earlier and achieve a large and high-quality crop.
- Protection of agricultural crops and especially their root system from freezing during sudden frosts.
- Good yields with large fruits even on relatively poor and infertile soil.
- Improving the process of photosynthesis - when using "biological fuel", carbon dioxide is released, which immediately enters the leaves of seedlings and bushes.
Among the shortcomings of warm beds, one can only single out the need to start work in early spring or even autumn and the fact that the process of decay can be accompanied by far from the most pleasant smells.
Varieties of warm beds
According to the principle of heating the soil and the root system of plants, warm beds are divided into three types.
- "Biological" warm beds. As a source of elevated temperature, they use the process of decay of various vegetation residues and livestock waste. There are many subtypes of warm "biofuel" beds, differing in their design and filler.
Prices for heating cables
heating cable
Important! Regardless of the principle of operation, for any warm bed it will not be superfluous to arrange thermal insulation from below (and in some cases from above). This will prevent heat from rotting, cables or pipes from being wasted into the frozen ground.
In this article, the focus will be on "biofuel" warm beds, as they are the most common at the moment. They are easier and cheaper to equip compared to other options.
According to their design, warm beds that work on decay are divided into four subtypes.
- Buried- under them, the sod is removed in the soil of the greenhouse, a sufficiently deep trench is dug and filled with several layers of organic material so that the upper boundary is at ground level or slightly higher.
The best option would be a raised warm bed - it is the easiest to equip, it does not require digging a trench, it will lose less heat due to contact with frozen spring soil. In addition, due to the relatively small volume, the warm bed in the box warms up much faster.
They have their own nuances of the device. It is necessary to rationally use the entire area of the greenhouse, be sure to provide free access to each bush, plant, branch. In addition, the conditions for the plants themselves should be the best - so that there is enough light and nutrition.
Buried beds with compost - step by step instructions
This type of warm bed with compost filler has the simplest design and requires a minimum of materials, but it takes a lot of time and effort to arrange. Here is a step by step guide on how to create it.
Step 1. Mark with the help of pegs and a rope stretched between them places for future warm beds. For an ordinary country greenhouse, this can be either 2-3 rows with a width of 60 to 120 cm with paths between them, or a U-shaped bed.
Step 2 Remove the sod with a shovel. Do not throw it away and do not mix it with the rest of the soil - it will be needed to form a warm bed.
Advice! If the arrangement of warm beds occurs at the same time as the construction of the greenhouse itself, start digging a trench before you complete the sheathing of the frame of the structure.
Step 3 Dig a trench 50-70 cm deep or two bayonet spades.
Step 4 Level the side walls of the trench.
Step 5 Determine the type of soil. If these are heavy soils containing a lot of clay, deepen the trench by 50 mm and fill it with sand to the same thickness - it will play the role of drainage and absorb excess water faster. Otherwise, when the ground absorbs water quickly, cover the bottom of the trench with cotton cloth, which will prevent excessive leaching of nutrients from the bed along with moisture.
Step 6 Lay a row of empty plastic bottles with tightly screwed caps on the bottom of the trench - this is necessary to insulate the compost bed and protect it from freezing in the cold. As an additional measure, you can upholster the walls of the trench with boards or several layers of plastic wrap.
Step 7 Prepare covering material and mulch.
Step 8 Proceed to filling the prepared trench with the necessary material for decay. What and in what order should be laid is described below, in one of the following sections of the article.
Warm bed in a box - step by step instructions
From a warm bed buried in a trench, a wooden or slate box with compost stands out favorably with less time and effort for arrangement - there is no need to dig a long and deep hole, it is enough to put together a simple structure from boards. In addition, working with raised warm beds is more convenient - there is no need to bend over too much for crop care and harvesting.
One of the examples of a box for a warm bed. 1. Boards for the box 2. Vole netting 3. Wood waste or shredded branches 4. Newspapers and cardboard 5. Wood shavings and sawdust 6. Fresh garden waste 7. Fall leaves from the compost heap 8. Compost with earth
The standard height of the box is approximately equal to the depth of the trench from the previous section of the article - from 40 to 70 cm. For small arched greenhouses, this creates two problems. The first is that the beds cannot be placed close to the wall, the usable area of an already small structure in length / width is lost. The second is that the bushes of some crops can grow too tall and start to rest against the greenhouse lining, which is undesirable. The solution to these problems is a combined warm bed - its lower half is located in a trench of the appropriate depth, and the upper half is in a box above ground level.
In addition to the presence of a pit, the design of raised and combined warm beds does not have serious differences; boxes for them can be assembled according to the same instructions, only adjusted for the height of the product. One such step-by-step method is shown below.
Step 1. Measure with a tape measure, pegs and rope inside the greenhouse the places for the boxes. The width of warm beds located near the wall should not exceed 60-80 cm, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work with them. In addition, if the boxes are too wide with access to them only from one side, there is a high risk of damaging one of the plants by negligence. In total, in an ordinary country greenhouse, 2-3 rows of boxes with paths between them can be placed. Another option is the U-shape, when a warm bed is also located at the wall opposite the entrance to the greenhouse. In this case, you get an additional 1 m 2 to 3 m 2 for growing plants.
Step 2 Remove a thin layer of sod from the place where the boxes will be located.
Step 3 If you plan to create a combined warm bed, dig a trench. You can learn more about this in the previous section of the article.
Step 4 Get your boards ready. Choose rot-resistant wood, larch is the best option. If it is not there, others will do, but pre-treat them with an antiseptic two or three times. Choose thick boards, at least 20 mm.
Step 5 Saw out from the boards or prepare separately vertical racks that will play the role of a kind of frame. In their height, they should be 5-15 cm larger than that of the box.
Step 6 Cut the boards with an electric jigsaw or saw along the length and width of the boxes.
Step 7 Gather together the boards of the long side of the box, attach the posts and connect them with nails or self-tapping screws. Repeat the operation for the opposite wall.
Step 8 On all the same screws or nails, attach the boards of the short wall to the ends of the boards of the long one. Repeat the operation on the other side. Check the quality of the box by measuring the lengths of the diagonals - the deviations should be insignificant.
Step 9 Cover the inside of the box with plastic wrap. This is necessary so that moisture does not leave the bed too quickly when in contact with hygroscopic wood. Fasten the film to the brackets using a furniture stapler or clamp with planks nailed on top of the box boards.
Step 10 Install the box on the prepared place, the protruding parts of the racks should be dug into the ground.
Step 11 Connect the opposite boards of the long wall of the box with a cross-beam from above to protect it from spreading under the pressure of the soil.
Step 12 Start filling the box with the necessary material for a warm bed.
Instead of boards, slate can be used as a material for the box (as a more durable alternative). In this case, it is necessary to make a sufficiently strong frame from a bar or a profiled pipe. Keep in mind that the final structure will turn out to be heavy, so create it either directly in the greenhouse or not far from it so that moving the box does not cause big problems.
Warm bed-hill - step by step instructions
The arrangement of a warm hill-bed is suitable for those who only want to try this agricultural technique and experiment with it, but do not want to spend too much time assembling the box and digging a deep trench.
Step 1. Mark out plots in the greenhouse for future beds.
Step 2 Remove the sod in these places.
Step 3 Dig a shallow trench for one shovel bayonet.
Step 4 Lay layers of biological material for a warm bed in such a way that 15-20 cm remain from the edges of the trench to it.
Step 5 Fill these gaps with fertile soil, also fill in all biological material from above.
It should be understood that the width of the final warm beds will be from 80 to 120 cm, therefore it is undesirable to arrange it near the wall of the greenhouse.
Video - Warm bed in the greenhouse
Harvesting and laying raw materials for a warm bed
Now let's consider the most important thing - what and how to put in a pre-prepared box or trench in order to get a warm bed. In the context, it is a "pie" of several layers of various organic matter, which, when rotting, release heat and form nutrients for plants.
The lowest layer is the thermal insulation necessary to protect the beds from freezing from below. It is created from empty plastic bottles, always with tightly screwed caps. Be sure to lay a fine wire mesh under or on top of this layer to protect the warm bed from mice and other rodents.
Wire mesh prices
wire mesh
Then the first layer of organics begins - large branches, chips, wooden chocks, corn leaves, sunflower stalks and other relatively large objects of plant origin that are subject to decay. In addition to generating heat and nutrients, this layer will play the role of a kind of drainage - excess moisture will easily go down through the cracks and gaps between large organic matter. In its thickness, it should be from 50 to 70% of the entire warm bed.
Important! When choosing plant waste for a warm bed, make sure that there are no traces of diseases on them, otherwise the latter may subsequently spread to the crops you grow.
After filling large organic matter, pour it with a sufficient amount of water and sprinkle it with Siyaniye-3 microbiological fertilizer (also known as BakSib F) or its analogues. It contains many bacteria that start and support decay and the conversion of organic matter into compost. Subsequently, treat each new layer for a warm bed with microbiological fertilizer and water it with water.
The next will be a relatively thin layer of shredded cardboard, newspapers and waste paper. Additionally, chalk and ash can be added to it. Repeat the operation with watering and microbiological fertilizer "Siyaniye-3".
Prices for fertilizers "Siyaniye"
fertilizer shine
A new layer of a warm bed contains medium-sized organic matter - potato and other peelings, tops, thin branches without seeds and plant stems. You can add sawdust, but first pour boiling water over them to kill weed seeds that randomly fall into them.
Next, a layer of fallen leaves, mowed grass, small sawdust and plant residues is placed. Large organics are also added, only pre-crushed. This layer of warm bed needs especially a lot of water and microbiological fertilizer. It would not be superfluous to cover it on top with rotted manure or already prepared compost - the rotting reaction will begin much faster and be more effective.
The last layer should occupy approximately 20-25% of the entire depth or height of a warm bed. This is fertile soil. It is advisable to purchase it separately to get as many nutrients as possible. If the land of the dacha or household plot is rich enough, add the turf removed earlier to the purchased land. For the winter, cover the finished warm bed on top with leaves, straw or transparent plastic wrap with cross-shaped slots for plant stems.
You can increase the effectiveness of a warm bed and its nutrient content by preparing a special mixture for the last layer. Its composition is shown in the table below.
Table. The composition of the soil mixture for a warm bed.
| Ingredient name, photo | Amount used |
|---|---|
| Six standard buckets, approx. 60 to 72 liters |
| One standard bucket, approximately 10 to 12 liters |
|
Warm ridges, the effectiveness of which is not in doubt, can be made on a personal or garden plot not only in autumn, but also in early spring. A properly made warm bed is very convenient for growing a range of vegetables and herbs. And to make such a design with your own hands is quite simple and not expensive.
Purpose and benefits
According to the experience of many gardeners and vegetable growers, an increase in temperature by only two degrees allows you to extend the growing season and gives an increase in yield by 25% or more. It is considered optimal to combine the device of a warm ridge with the use of a greenhouse structure.
The basic principle of operation of such ridges is simple and is based on the following indicators:
- the decomposition of organic matter is always accompanied by the release of heat, which makes it possible to use the ridges for planting heat-loving plants about a month earlier than the standard time;
- prolongation of the period of active vegetation of cultivated crops contributes to the formation of a better and more abundant harvest;
- the result of the decomposition of organic matter is the formation of a significant amount of nutrients, which has a positive effect on the growth, development and yield of garden crops.
The increase in yield is due to the abundant release of carbon dioxide, which is also beneficial for plant cultivation. On warm ridges, vegetable crops grow as strong as possible and are practically not affected by late blight and many other, most common, diseases. The joint use of warm beds and biological preparations in household vegetable growing makes it possible to increase the productivity of tomatoes by two to three times.
A warm bed can be made once and for a very long time, and maintaining such a structure in working order will not require costs, since the whole process consists in digging, laying garbage and waste, planting seeds or seedlings and harvesting.
Such structures will not require investments, but will allow, in a fairly short time period, to increase the amount of fertile soil without the use of fertilizers and manure. Additional savings include the absence of costs for the removal of waste and garbage from the site, and the use of a film allows you to save on paying for water, reduce labor costs for loosening and weeding.
Do-it-yourself warm beds step by step instruction (video)
Arrangement options
Warm ridges can be high or look like a regular trench. The basic principle of operation and filling of such ridges is the same, but the difference lies in the need to make a special box for a high structure. The trench type of construction involves digging a special recess in the ground.
High ridges warm up faster in early spring and are therefore more suitable for growing the most thermophilic garden crops with a long growing season. Recently, many experienced gardeners and gardeners prefer combined structures, the lower part of which is located in the soil, and a box is used to create the upper one.
Step by step manufacturing technology
The efficiency indicators and the possibility of long-term operation of the structure on the plot will depend on how correctly the ridge is arranged. The technology for manufacturing a trench warm ridge is quite simple (does not require strict adherence to step-by-step instructions):
- dig a trench of arbitrary length with a width of one meter and a depth of about 50 cm;
- at the bottom of the excavated trench, a layer of any wood waste should be laid, which can be used as branches, boards, tree rhizomes or sawdust;
- fill the trench with any food and garden waste in the form of paper, mowed or weeded grass, dry foliage and tops;
- fill up with the next layer of well-rotted or bedding manure with wood ash (horse and rabbit manure and chicken manure have the best efficiency);
- fill the bed with a layer of humus or any high-quality soil mixture.
To equip a high warm ridge, you will need to make a wooden or plastic box of convenient dimensions for maintenance and a height of 60–80 cm. The layer-by-layer filling of such a box after installation is carried out similarly to the arrangement of a trench ridge. The combined option involves the arrangement of a shallow trench and filling it with organic matter, after which a wooden, metal or plastic box is installed and the layer of fertile soil or garden soil necessary for planting is filled up.
If necessary, it is allowed to replace the manure layer with straw bales, which are previously filled with a solution of bird droppings. To increase the effectiveness of a warm ridge, the soil should be moistened regularly and abundantly. A very good result is obtained by arranging a structure with a slight slope to the south.
Boarding rules and dates
After the ridges are completely ready, it is necessary to allow the soil to settle. During the week, it is recommended to water the soil several times, and only after that you can start sowing seeds or planting seedlings in a permanent place.
- in the central part, along the entire bed, it is necessary to make a low earthen rampart, which will allow dividing the entire planting area into two identical parts and will evenly distribute water during rains or irrigation;
- on both sides of the roller, landing holes are made with a distance of 50–60 cm from each other and a depth of about a shovel bayonet;
- each planting hole should be well moistened and sown in accordance with the agricultural technology of the selected garden crop, prepared seed material;
- after sowing, the holes should be sprinkled with nutrient soil, and then cover the ridges with a garden covering film. For this purpose, it is also possible to use arcs with non-woven covering material.
Gardeners should refrain from growing such crops as dill, onions, lettuce, spinach, beets and radishes in the first two years on warm ridges, due to the significant accumulation of nitrogen-containing substances in the soil and the possibility of increasing the level of nitrates in the crop.
Before the emergence of seedlings, it is necessary to monitor the soil moisture and, if necessary, carry out irrigation measures. It should be remembered that the upper level of the ridge decreases annually, which is associated with the decomposition of the lower layers of fillers. After two years, fertile soil from warm ridges can be scattered over the area of \u200b\u200bthe personal plot. The advantages of high ridges also include the possibility of transferring the box to another place in order to create a new warm ridge.
Despite the seeming simplicity of creating such warm and effective ridges on a personal plot, there are some nuances which must be taken into account when working on the arrangement:
- if the box for the ridge is made of lumber, then it is recommended that all wooden blanks be treated in advance with a special antiseptic to protect against decay. A good result is the processing of wood with ordinary hot drying oil;
- all fillers used in the process of warm ridges are able to completely rot in 5-8 years, after which the structure will be filled with ordinary fertile soil, which can be used to improve the physical characteristics of the soil in other parts of the site;
- the soil on such ridges requires abundant and frequent watering, which is associated with the need for the presence of moisture for additional decay of the lower layer, followed by the release of the heat necessary for plants;
- experienced gardeners and gardeners recommend in the late autumn period to partially open the upper layer of the ridge in order to fill it with waste and plant debris in autumn and winter;
- the best option is to use ridges for growing heat-loving crops located along the southern wall of a house or other buildings that are not shaded for more than two hours a day;
- in order to accelerate the processes of decomposition of organic matter, it is recommended to use special biologically active preparations for irrigation;
- properly made warm beds have good drainage properties and help protect plants from flooding in the spring.
How to prepare warm beds for the next season (video)
A very good result is the planting of berry crops or vegetables such as pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants on warm ridges covered with black film mulch. Thus, it is possible to retain moisture in the soil, reduce the time and effort spent on weeding and loosening, and also obtain the optimal temperature regime that protects the plant root system from late spring frosts and freezing in winter.
We made our warm beds in a greenhouse from the crumpled flooring left over from the fallen roof. Who cares about the roof.
The width of our corrugated board is about 1.2 m (and the length is 5.80 m), at first we cut it into strips = 30 cm, these are 3 strips, but then we decided to cut 20 cm each, which was enough for 6 strips 5.8 m long From 4 such strips, we got ~ 12 meter warm bed .. After a month of work, we got 16 warm ridges, 6 of which are 30 cm high, the rest are 20 cm each, 2 beds are just bulk and one wooden one is like 20 cm high. 18 beds.
As you noticed from the photo above, we have warm beds with pipes for heating the soil in early spring. For 18 ridges ~ 12 meters long, it took 1000 meters of pipes for underfloor heating (22 rubles / m).
This solution is approximately 4 times cheaper than the ventilation heating of the soil according to the Ivanov method.
What to make warm beds
Options:
- Boards(the cheapest)
- Galvanized metal(the price depends on the wall thickness of the sheet) - expensive, if you do it yourself as we did, then it is about 2 times more expensive than wooden ones.
- Slate(wavy and sheet, sheet 1 cm thick is more reliable and more convenient than wavy, but there is already a question of environmental safety, as it is done from harmful asbestos)
- plastic boards(expensive, not safe, destroyed in the sun)
- Plastic bottles(cheap and cheerful, the cost is almost zero, you can of course buy in bulk at the factory, the average price is 5-7 rubles a liter bottle, but then it will be very expensive.)
Do-it-yourself warm beds - step by step manufacturing
Making a high wooden warm bed with your own hands is quite simple, but time consuming. To do this, we take two boards 3 cm thick, 20 cm wide and 6 meters long. We saw sticks 5x5 cm long 44 cm in the amount of 9 pcs. (Step 60 cm.) We mark with a marker in the center of the boards a point every meter. (In the very 1st picture for this article, partitions are visible that tighten the 2 sides of the future beds.)
Next, we bait self-tapping screws (65mm) at the marked points. We put the bar in the center of the marked point, but on the reverse side, and carefully holding the bar we twist the self-tapping screw so that it enters the center of the bar from the board.
Having twisted all the screws, we get an almost finished bed, it remains to close the front and back of the bed. To do this, cut off a board 20x50 cm and retreat 1.5 cm from the edge of the board and 3-5 cm from the bottom and top, we bait 2 screws on the left and right. We put it to our garden bed so that the boards hit each other and twist the screws.
We close the remaining opening in the same way and we get a ready-made box of warm beds for backfilling. If you need a higher bed, we put on 2 identical boxes on top of each other, fasten them from the inside with blocks so that they do not slide off each other, we get a bed height of 40 centimeters.
How to fill a warm bed?
We prepared the land according to the following recipe:
- 3 buckets of black soil
- 3 buckets of humus
- 1 bucket of river sand
All this was poured into a concrete mixer and mixed well. Then they poured out on a wheelbarrow and fell asleep alternately in the beds.
Do-it-yourself warm bed what to put first
To properly make warm beds, you need to follow the principle of layer-by-layer backfilling of the necessary materials. On the Internet, everyone writes that you must first put large branches on the bottom of the beds, then small branches, then hay or humus, then newspapers, then foliage, compost and earth.
The device of warm beds
- Volumetric material (large branches, boards, bars)
- Smaller branches
- Several layers of newspapers
- Books and cardboard
- Shrub branches (raspberries, currants, etc.)
- shredded branches
- Foliage
- Compost
- Earth
But we live in Russia and we perfectly understand that no one does this.) And they won’t do it, for several reasons: laziness, extra labor and resource costs. A couple of beds can be done this way, but if you need a lot of beds, then you don’t have to bother, you will do it as easy as possible. And not everyone has so many branches, foliage, tops and newspapers lying around in the yard to make 100 squares of warm beds.
High warm beds - advantages and disadvantages
There is no point in using these beds in the southern regions.
5 Cons of warm, high beds
- The main disadvantage of warm beds in a greenhouse is that in winter the ground will become just icy and all the plants in them will die. Perhaps on the street, plants in warm wooden beds will survive, but not a fact, we have not checked.
- Another disadvantage is that horses cannot be grown in them: carrots, beets, turnips, etc. otherwise, the root crops will ruin the entire bed (This applies to narrow beds 50 cm wide).
Not knowing the main disadvantage was our mistake before we wanted to plant strawberries in them. We made beds, and in the spring they planned to plant strawberries for 3 years, and in the winter I went to check the soil in warm rows, and it was icy. In the fall, garlic was poked into them, 70-80% of the garlic died. As a result, for the winter it will be necessary to dig up all the strawberries and put them in a medical refrigerator at -1 degrees Celsius.
- The bed dries out quickly and needs constant watering.
- The bed settles, you need to fill it with earth every time as needed.
- Financial and labor costs for their creation.
pros
High beds are well suited for annual plants: cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cabbage, etc.
- Aesthetics and ease of care for the beds
- Less weeds
- Can be covered with arches
- No need to dig up the entire garden every year
Do-it-yourself warm bed for strawberries
So how to make a warm bed for strawberries so that it does not freeze in winter? Firstly, you need to make a warm bed very wide, one and a half to two meters, and even more is better. Secondly, it should be in open ground, then strawberries in winter possibly survive. I repeat once again, in winter in a greenhouse in a warm bed, the earth becomes icy.
Warm beds for strawberries do it yourself photo
I am attaching photos of our strawberries: (as it is correct to call it)
Frigo strawberries in warm beds
Beds with automatic watering of strawberries
You can clearly see the development of plants in a sunny place and in the shade
Under the roof in the shade did not bear fruit at all almost
While writing this article and the summer is almost over and there are results for strawberries. In general, we bought seedlings from Italy for ~ 45,000 rubles (550 USD), grew and we sold for 30,000 rubles. In the red for 15,000 steering wheels and + spent a lot of effort caring for them. We ate a little ourselves, probably for 15 tr. Planted ~ 1300 strawberry bushes. The ideal fruiting year is the second year, but there is no longer any desire to plant in the greenhouse for the 2nd year.
We decided next year to plant cucumbers in half of the beds, leave 6 rows for the winter with strawberries and see if they survive or not, we will plant tomatoes and something else in the remaining rows.
How to make a warm bed for cucumbers
A warm bed for cucumbers is done as described above. It is best to make a warm cucumber bed in the fall than in the spring, as leaf compost can only be made in the fall. Yes, and in the spring there will be no need to rush and waste time creating them. “Prepare the sleigh in summer and the cart in winter.”
Such a bed is suitable not only for cucumbers in the open field, but also for other types of annual plants. And the right drip irrigation installed on such a bed will save you time.
Above the bed, you need to stretch a cable or wire for tying cucumbers, and to make it easier to tie up, then, as a rule, self-tapping screws are screwed into the bed box every 30 cm or nails are hammered. Then the twine is taken and wound in a zigzag fashion over the cable and over the screw, over the cable and over the screw. Video example:
Here is another useful video on how to quickly cut ropes for cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, etc. plants.
Well, that's all, leave your comments below under this article, share with friends in the social. networks.
Experienced summer residents are well aware of the deceitfulness of spring weather. Even the beginning of summer can be fraught with unpleasant surprises in the form of low temperatures. Therefore, a warm bed for cucumbers, zucchini, tomatoes and other heat-loving crops is a great way to grow an early crop even in adverse climatic conditions. The device of different types of warm beds is similar - in fact, these are improved compost heaps.
Scheme of the device of a warm bed in the country
When organic matter rots, heat is released, which is so necessary for plants for rapid development. Therefore, in the spring, seedlings can be planted on "compost" beds earlier.
Filling the compost bed
The main feature of a warm bed is the organic filling, which, when decomposed, provides not only heat, but also useful substances necessary for rapid growth and a bountiful harvest.
The process of filling the compost bed
The filling of the bed may differ depending on the possibilities and the organic materials at hand, but the basic principles are the same for any type of warm beds:
Varieties of warm beds
Warm beds in the country can be of the following types:
High warm beds
For compost raised or a box is built from suitable materials. Layers of warm "pie" are stacked in this frame. In the country, where groundwater is high, and moisture stagnation is not uncommon in spring, this is the best option.
High beds can be made from boards, bricks, ready-made, etc.
Dimensions of warm raised beds
For warm compost beds, the height of the sides should be from 50 cm. Such beds make it possible to significantly facilitate seasonal work in the country. No need to bend over when planting and weeding plants, convenient to harvest. The height of the curb can be made larger if this does not make it difficult to process the beds.
Drawing with the dimensions of a warm raised bed
The optimal width of the beds is 90 - 120 cm, the main thing is to easily reach its middle. If the bed is installed against the wall of the greenhouse or near the fence and there is only one approach, the width is made no more than 50 - 60 cm. The length of the beds is chosen arbitrarily and is limited only by the size of the plot.
Raised bed device
Traditionally, wooden boxes are used for beds. The reasons for this are as follows:
- wood is inexpensive;
- making and repairing beds is not difficult;
- simple tools are needed for installation;
- wood is a natural eco-friendly material.
To serve longer, it is better to make them from larch boards. This type of wood does not need additional processing, due to the special composition of the resin and the high density of the structure. Larch is resistant to fungi, mold and insects.
To make a high warm bed with your own hands, you need to perform the following steps:
Raised bed manufacturing instructions
- Training. It is necessary to determine the dimensions of the beds and mark the territory. Garbage is removed from the site, the sod is removed, the earth is dug up for better water permeability.
- A bed box is being assembled. Boards, sawn to the desired size, are collected in boxes. Often, from the inside, a wooden bed is sheathed with a film or any polymeric material; the film will retain heat and moisture in the ground. A metal mesh is fixed to the bottom of the frame, which will protect the crop from rodents and moles.
- Filling the garden. The box is filled in layers with organic matter and garden soil. If the bed is being prepared in the spring, it must be well shed with water and covered with a film in order to start the processes of biological decomposition faster. For the winter, the compost bed is covered with a dark film so that weeds do not germinate.
Warm bed-hill
Option high unformed beds. Layers of organic raw materials and fertile soil are formed directly on the ground without a box, making the process of building a bed less laborious.
Step-by-step instructions for making a warm hill-type bed
Outwardly, such a bed resembles an embankment, the middle of which is raised above the ground by about 80 - 100 cm, and the edges gradually decrease to ground level. Inside the hill there is the same filling as in the high warm bed.
The device of the hill-bed is as follows:
Due to its design, the usable area of the mound bed is larger than the horizontal one, and the wooden base provides excellent ventilation of the lower layers.
buried bed
To make such a warm bed, a ditch is dug into which organic material is laid. The upper part of the bed can be slightly raised or located on the same level with the ground.
Creating a deep garden
Combined warm beds
The combined option combines two types of beds. The lower layers of the beds are in a dug trench, the upper ones remain above the ground. The depth of the ditch can be two times less than the buried beds, and a box with low sides is installed on top.
The principles of the arrangement of warm beds
Having understood the principles and features of arranging warm beds, it is not necessary to follow strict instructions. You can improvise, adhering to the main rule - the decay of organic matter must occur correctly. To prevent pathogenic microorganisms, mold, and unpleasant odors from multiplying, it is important to ensure good air exchange and keep the bed moist.
The design and arrangement of a warm bed
For the efficient operation of the beds, the following rules should be observed:
- To ensure drainage and air access, long-decomposing waste is laid at the bottom of the bed: thick stems, boards, branches, tree roots. The layer should be loose, about 45 cm thick.
- Each layer must be well shed with water and not allowed to dry out in the hot season.
- Only the remains of healthy plants are used as filler for the beds, and weeds should be seedless.
- It is important that the layers do not stick together, so the air exchange will be disturbed. Raw raw materials should be layered with straw, thin eyelids, dry plants, leaves.
- For the winter, the finished garden bed needs to be covered from weed seeds, which will instantly germinate on fertile soil.