Rules and regulations for the installation of plastic windows. Correct installation of plastic windows according to GOST. Installation of plastic slopes

Relatively recently, all residential buildings had ordinary wooden windows, which had to be glued over for the winter. Today it is almost a relic of the past. And most people strive to replace such windows with modern plastic window structures, and they are especially interested in installing plastic windows with their own hands.

Such a desire of the consumer is quite understandable - plastic windows have not only an aesthetic appearance, but also serve as an interior decoration. They are also much easier to operate, serve an order of magnitude longer, and are much cheaper than their wooden counterparts.

If you have a desire to change old windows in your apartment for modern double-glazed windows, then you will certainly ask yourself whether it is possible to install a plastic window yourself. How difficult is the installation of plastic windows, and is it possible to do it yourself without resorting to the help of specialists?

Yes, it’s quite possible. In order to install a plastic window with your own hands, it is not necessary to have a construction specialty. With certain skills and good tools, anyone can install a plastic window with their own hands.

Let's figure out how to do it right.

What does a plastic window consist of?

First, consider the design of a plastic window. Without this, you will not understand the installation process itself.

Plastic windows are made from a special material called PolyVinyl Chloride. Therefore, plastic windows are abbreviated as PVC windows. As with any window, the main element of a PVC window is a frame made of a profile consisting of cells. The more such cells in the frame (also called cameras), the warmer the window will be.

Typically, the frame color is white. Although plastic can be black, brown, and even colored. The most common and cheapest option is white plastic windows.

In addition, the window consists of an opening part (sash) and a fixed part, which is called "wood grouse". A glass unit is inserted directly into these parts of the window, which is pressed against the frame with a special plastic strip. For tightness, a black rubber seal is placed.

Special mechanisms are installed on the window sashes, with the help of which the window opens and closes.

In addition, from the outside, the window has a so-called ebb - a small board with which precipitation is removed, and slopes - plates with which the side and upper parts from the street side are sealed.

Stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands

All stages of installing plastic windows with your own hands are reduced to the following:

careful measurements;
dismantling of old window structures;
preparation of window openings;
DIY installation of PVC windows.

Making measurements

Before ordering, and, accordingly, installing a plastic window, you need to make several measurements. Moreover, how carefully they are done depends on how your structure fits into the window opening. Remember that accurate measurements are almost half the battle. If you make the measurements incorrectly, when installing plastic windows with your own hands, the structure simply will not enter the opening. In addition, the windows can begin to freeze.

First you need to carefully examine the opening. If the part of the window that is smaller on the outside, then measurements are taken at the narrowest place. Moreover, it is highly desirable to make several of them, because window openings are rarely perfectly flat. Find the smallest measurement value, and add 3. Measure the height, leave its value as it is.

If the window is the same size both inside and outside, measurements are taken slightly differently. You need to measure the width and height. Then you need to subtract 5 cm from the height, and 3 from the width. This will be the full size of your window, with width and height. We subtract the values in order to leave gaps for the installation of the window sill and special polyurethane foam.

Each owner chooses a window sill according to the size he wants. Someone like wide window sills, someone narrow, and someone makes them at wall level. This is individual, and there are no rules here. This is about the width.

In length, both the sill and the ebb should be taken with a margin - about 10 cm wider than the window opening.

Preparing for installation

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows always starts with dismantling the old window. As a rule, dismantling is especially easy even for novice builders.

After you have broken down the old window, you need to carefully examine the opening and remove everything that may later fall off. If any parts of the opening after dismantling protrude from the walls, they must also be removed and the surfaces smoothed. Potholes, if any. It should be repaired with cement mortar.

When installing PVC windows with your own hands, the following circumstances must be taken into account:

the plastic window structure should be carefully secured;
the window structure must be aligned both horizontally and vertically, otherwise in the future it may simply be skewed;
it is imperative to plaster the foam on all sides, with which the structure is attached, also in order to avoid further problems such as deformation.

Installation technology of plastic windows

Do-it-yourself plastic window is mounted as follows:

on four sides, the structure should be fixed with wedges, and it is determined how accurately the frame is in relation to the opening;
fix the frame with special bolts;
attach the structure with screws to the wooden part;
seal the plastic structure with polyurethane foam, spreading it over a surface slightly moistened with water.

You need to start with the fact that there are two different ways to install plastic windows with your own hands.

The first method is that holes are drilled in the window frame for special anchors, which are driven into the wall. This is a rather difficult method, but a more reliable mount.

The second method is that metal plates are first attached to the frame from the outside, and only then these plates are attached to the walls. This is a much simpler and faster method, but such a fastening is not reliable. The frame can simply be skewed even in strong winds. Therefore, if you nevertheless decided to make your life easier and install a plastic window with your own hands in the second way, use thick and wide metal plates. In this case, you can give your plastic construction more reliability. However, if it is very windy in your city, this method will definitely not work for you.

Direct mounting

Do-it-yourself installation of a plastic window in the first way with reliable fastening is carried out as follows.

First you need to check whether the structure and the window opening are aligned. If everything is in order, proceed directly to the installation.

First you need to remove the window sash. For this:

turn the window handle down, putting the window in the "closed" position, and remove the cover from the hinges with a screwdriver;
pull out the pin that is on the upper hinge;
open the shutter by turning the window handle to a horizontal position, after which, by lifting the window sash, you can easily remove it from the lower pin.

After you have removed the sash, you need to remove the glass unit on the "capercaillie". For this:

insert a small spatula or something similar, strong enough, thin and not wide, into the gap between the frame and the glazing bead;
push the glazing bead along the entire length with a spatula and remove it from the frame.

After that, it is already quite easy to remove the glass unit itself. The main thing is that it does not fall out of the frame after the glazing beads you removed have ceased to hold it. To avoid this, the window must be tilted.

The frame is freed from the glass unit, and now it should be pasted over with a special tape around the perimeter. This tape is needed to keep the window warm.

As a rule, white self-adhesive protective tapes are glued to the frames. It is also advisable to remove them, because later, when they heat up in the sun and stick to the frame, melting with it, it will be difficult to do. In the meantime, the tapes are removed very easily.

Now the frame needs to be inserted into the window opening. To do this, you will need mounting wedges, which are placed in the corners (this is a mandatory requirement), as well as in other places where you deem it necessary.

With the help of a drill and a drill, special holes are made into which fasteners are inserted. The first hole is drilled at a distance of 1.5 - 2 cm from the top edge. The bottom hole should be approximately the same distance from the bottom corner. The gap between two fasteners should not be more than 5-7 cm.
The hole is driven into the hole, and then the anchor is tightened. In this case, the anchor must be tightened carefully, trying not to overtighten, otherwise the profile will bend, and this cannot be allowed. This operation - tightening the anchors - is continued as many times as necessary.

After that, ebb tides should be installed outside. Before installation, stick on the outside of the frame with self-adhesive waterproofing. On the side, grooves are made in the openings (there will then need to be the edges of these ebb tides).

A special profile is installed on the part of the opening where the ebb tide rests on the wall, to which the ebb tide will then be attached. If the height difference is small, the profile can not be installed, but simply apply a layer of polyurethane foam. Then the ebb should be brought under the ledge of the frame, and attached to it with self-tapping screws. Along the lower border, the ebb also needs to be filled with polyurethane foam.

Now let's take a closer look at the second method of installing plastic windows with our own hands - using plates.

This method is much simpler, although, as we said, less reliable. Installation using this method involves the installation of thick metal plates.

They should be installed at the same distance as the anchors in the first installation method - about 2 cm from the edge, and no more than 7 cm between those in the middle. The metal plates are simply screwed to the profile using self-tapping screws.

In all other respects, the installation of plastic windows with your own hands completely coincides with the first installation method. In the same way, a window is set in terms of level in three planes, after which all actions are identical. Simply, unlike the first method, not the frame itself is attached, but metal plates, and they are attached to the so-called dowel-nails. The peculiarity of the fastening is that first a hole is drilled, then the metal plate is folded back, a dowel is inserted into the hole, the plate is put in place and the dowel is tightened.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows with your own hands

If you install plastic windows incorrectly, this can lead to the fact that it will be cold in the house, water will flow into the room through improperly mounted ebb tides. And the expensive structures themselves will quickly become unusable. And if professional installers sometimes make mistakes when installing PVC windows, then an amateur who installs plastic windows with his own hands is certainly not immune from them.

Let's take a look at the 10 most common mistakes that are made when installing plastic windows.

Window size is incorrect

Usually this is a consequence of incorrect, careless measurement of the window opening, and, accordingly, the manufacture of an unsuitable window structure. And in case the window is too large in size. And if the size is very small, it is simply impossible to install such structures.

Poor preparation of the window opening

If the surfaces are poorly cleaned, debris, dust, potholes remain on them, or, on the contrary, parts of the wall protrude on the surface of the opening, the polyurethane foam will not stand as tightly and evenly as is necessary for a high-quality installation of plastic windows with your own hands. In addition, this kind of pollution absorbs moisture very well, and it will soon end up inside your apartment.

Ignoring the thermal insulation of the wall

If the plastic window is installed without taking into account the thermal insulation of the wall, then cold air will penetrate into the apartment at the joints. Therefore, it is imperative to take into account the layers of the walls when installing plastic windows. If the wall is single layer, the window should be positioned exactly in the middle of the wall. If the wall is double skinned, the window should be installed at the very edge, as close to the insulation as possible. And if the wall is three-layer, then it is necessary to install the PVC window directly in the plane of the wall insulation, in order to avoid heat loss.

Incorrect distance between window frame and slope

If the window frame is located too close to the slope, then the seal in this place will be of poor quality, and moisture will begin to appear and accumulate in these places. If, on the contrary, the frame is located too far from the slope, then there is a risk of deformation, since the load on the anchors or metal plates is too great.

Wrong size of the window sill

The sill strip should be somewhat narrower than the window frame itself. If it is of a different size, or it was decided not to put it at all, then water will penetrate under the window frame due to the lack of a normal seal in this place, and as a result, the wall will be constantly wet. Metal parts can simply corrode over time.

Poor fastening of the PVC window to the wall

If you feel sorry for the dowels or anchors, and there are too few of them to properly attach the window structure to the wall, the position of the window will change over time, the frame will deform, and it will be difficult for you to tear off and close the window.

Not enough polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is practically the only material for insulating the window structure and the wall itself to which it is attached. If there is not enough foam, then the heat will go away. Therefore, the gap between the slope and the window frame must be filled properly, not sparing the foam.

Lack of insulating tape

If you decide not to use the insulating tape laid down in accordance with GOST on the inside and outside of the window structure, be prepared for the fact that the thermal insulation will gradually get worse and worse. Accordingly, the windows will become unusable much faster than you would like.

Therefore, if you decide to install a plastic window with your own hands, try to go through all the necessary steps and perform all the necessary actions efficiently, carefully and slowly. Then your beautiful self-installed plastic windows will delight you and your household for many years.

When they talk about installation according to the standard, they usually mean the installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST 30971. Or, more precisely, its latest version from 2012, because the previous ones did not want to know anything about plastic windows. In the context of the standard, a number of recommendations are given, as well as requirements for the execution of certain units. To many, the words will seem rather blurry, but the drawings in the applications are quite descriptive. Be that as it may, in practice, no one installs PVC windows in accordance with GOST, strictly in accordance with the letter of the law. But some do this because they know that insulated plastic slopes are better than plaster, while others simply save the vapor barrier film at the expense of the customer. It is these two and similar cases that we must accurately distinguish if installers visit our house.

Installation options for PVC windows in accordance with GOST 30971

Window installation

Requirements for the seam and fastening of the plastic window frame

In the initial chapters of the standard, along with certain characteristics and numbers, instructions are given that indirectly hint that the installation of PVC windows is supposed to be done in Russia. What are even the words that the assembly seams are made from compounds with an expiration date. Good, yes? Otherwise, we would now take overdue foam somewhere in warehouses at a bargain price, and we would carry out the entire installation with it. The seams themselves are divided into categories into A, B and C. According to their resistance to moisture penetration and maximum deformation.

For us, it is more important that the seams can be:

Regular. These can withstand temperatures up to minus 30 degrees Celsius.
Frost resistant. This includes all other seams that are more resistant to cold.

It is clear that for most of our regions, the first type of installation is not suitable in any way. The division takes place again according to the type of materials used. That is, when we take the foam, we make sure that it keeps the frost of forty degrees. Further requirements are much more specific. Here is some of them:

According to GOST, the frame can be placed on anchors or pins, but in the examples, anchor plates are used everywhere. These are such thin scraps of flat steel profiles that easily bend to the shape of the opening and cling to the frame with one end and the wall with the other. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws and dowel-nails. Some people call this approach a sham. Be that as it may, to prevent moisture from entering the seam from the profile, the frame is trimmed with PSUL at the end.

In cases where the fastening is carried out on the anchor, the profile is punched through. It is important to isolate the attachment points here. Because according to GOST 30971, as we said above, the polyurethane foam must be fenced from all sides. Recall that the anchor plate runs parallel to the profile at the starting point, so a vapor barrier membrane can be mounted under it, and the PSUL can be covered from above. In those cases where the steel axle goes straight into the wall, something else needs to be done. For example, prime the entire surface of the opening together with the holes for the anchor with waterproofing, and cover the holes in the profile with silicone sealant, and from the inside of the seam. That is, the technology becomes a little complicated, and everything ingenious is - as you know - simple. Consequently, the proposed methodology is not entirely correct.

Frame fixing

In any case, it is the responsibility of the builder to insulate the seam. And how he will do it is a purely personal problem for everyone. GOST gives only general recommendations in this regard. And another burning topic is the problem of mounting clearances. We already wrote in the topic about wooden houses that some foremen are literally fighting here for every millimeter. The fact is that the more space around the frame perimeter, the more expensive the work, because more building materials are consumed. Blowing also rises. At the same time, if the house is new, and the gap is too small, then the window will simply crush when it shrinks. This is especially true for wooden walls. So there you go! In GOST there is not a word about shrinkage, the degree of moisture content of the timber, but temperature fluctuations are widely played out. And this is how it happens ...

In the course of the text, a rough drawing is given of a disgusting quality, where two sizes are given. Below is a table where it turns out that these are gaps depending on the material and color of the profile. In particular, for plastic, these distances are slightly larger than for aluminum. Appendix B gives a very common formula, according to which, according to the idea, builders should check their conjectures about the size of the mounting clearances around the perimeter of the frame. It multiplies the temperature difference with the coefficient of thermal expansion of the profile material (wood, steel, aluminum, PVC) and the length of the window. A correction factor is also introduced. For all materials, except for painted PVC (0.5), it is equal to 0.4.

The result is a certain value that can be taken as the minimum mounting clearance. That is, you can sit at home, calculate everything in advance, and when the installers bring the profile, you can surprise them (pleasantly or unpleasantly) with knowledge of the issue. If the gaps are too high, then most likely the price will bite, and if the gaps are too low, the window can crush in winter. And in any case, GOST does not take into account the shrinkage of the house. We focus on this.

The process of installing the frame of a plastic window into the opening

Please note that the linear dimensions of the window change depending on the temperature. This is most likely another reason for using anchor plates. In this case, they serve as springs, preventing deformations from causing significant damage. As for the anchors, they must be recessed into the frame. And that's why.

Let's say our frame is punched through at the attachment points. In summer, when temperatures are high, plastic expands rapidly. Its linear dimensions change faster than the wall. Therefore, if something connects these two elements, then deformations will occur in the profile. Please note that this cannot be said about the foam, it holds along the entire perimeter, which blocks the specified factor. Thus, if anchors are used, they do not have to be rigidly connected to the profile.

We spoke about this now, because GOST is silent about this, and the need to drill a wall is already on the nose. You will need wedges to mount the frame. GOST mentions spacers and says that they should be made of plastic, or special hardwoods, properly processed. As a result, it is much cheaper to buy mounting wedges from the store than trying to swim upstream. Before installation, the opening is thoroughly cleaned. In GOST it is written that any interfering factors are removed, including snow and ice. Irregularities are eliminated with various compounds. There should be no defects exceeding 1 cm in size.

Window frame perimeter

While the solution is drying, the plastic window frame is being prepared. For this, two strips of a vapor barrier membrane are glued along its perimeter. One for each side. If there is a window quarter, then the PSUL is mounted along its length with an inward indent of 1 - 2 mm. We remind you that the membrane is glued with one edge under the anchor plates, which must be placed around the perimeter at a distance of no more than 70 cm with an indent from the corners of 10 - 12 cm.

Before installation, loose walls are primed with special mixtures or reinforced with foil, and materials with strong water absorption are also treated accordingly. On the prepared base, mounting wedges are placed on the sides, approximately equal to the calculated gap. A plastic window frame is installed on them. The structure is symmetrical in the opening and leveled. Wedging begins, during which it is necessary to ensure the design clearance on each side of the frame.

Wedges by themselves do not hold the profile; they are needed only at the installation stage. It is clear that if the temperature drops in the future, these elements will lose their load. Before foaming, the cleanliness of the opening is checked again, and in place. The surface is moistened, after which the seam is blown out by about two-thirds. In the future, the polyurethane foam will expand and take up the entire space. When the composition has dried, then the vapor barrier membrane along its edges is attached to the concrete base. No operations are performed with the PSUL along the perimeter of the window quarter.

Thus, a seam isolated from the street turned out, and finishing work can begin. In GOST 30971 there are several sketches of how to lead and slopes. According to one of the options, no finishing is done at all. The work of the wizard is limited to what we have already described. As for the slopes, it is proposed to make them from wood, plaster or drywall. There is no PVC in this list yet, and everything that is made from sandwich panels is not regulated by the standard. But because of this, they did not use less polymers in the decoration. Because insulated and beautiful slopes are great, and the installation of PVC panels is much easier than the plastering process.

That's the whole installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST, about which there is so much gossip. Not a word at all about the ebb. However, the order of their installation is extremely simple.

When planning to replace old windows with new ones, many are wondering how difficult it is to install them on their own. The answer is medium difficulty work. In terms of time, replacing a medium-sized window with dismantling the old one takes about 3.5-4.5 hours. This is for a person with no experience. Employees of firms doing this all the time spend less than an hour on it. But the installation of plastic windows by the owner of the premises with his own hands cannot be compared with the hasty work of "professionals". They simplify the process to the point of indecency, arguing that prices have not been raised for 6 years and they have no time to waste time on trifles. If you are lucky enough to find really masters, then you can entrust them with the installation. If not, you better spend the weekend and install it yourself.

Construction of plastic windows

In order to properly understand the installation process, you need to have an idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe construction of windows. Let's start with materials and titles. Plastic windows are made of polyvinyl chloride, which is abbreviated as PVC. Hence the second name - PVC windows.

The main element of any window is the frame. For plastic windows, the frame is made of a special multi-chamber profile. It is divided by partitions into a number of cells - chambers. The more of these cells, the warmer the window will be. When they talk about how many cameras there will be in a plastic window, they have the number of cells in the profile.

In the middle of the structure, in the largest chamber, a blue insert is visible. This is a reinforcing element of increased rigidity. It gives the profile the required strength. In plastic windows this insert is made of plastic, in metal-plastic windows it is made of metal (usually aluminum). That's the whole difference between them.

There is also a division of profiles into classes: economy, standard and premium. The best choice if you need normal windows is the standard class. In the economy class, partitions are too thin and they begin to freeze almost from the moment of installation. The premium has a high price tag due to options that, in fact, are not needed.

If you want to have the best profile for plastic windows, take the class standard of any factory. There is no particular difference between the products of different companies. They have been standardized for a long time and all the stories of managers about the benefits are fairy tales. If they are made on factory equipment, there is no difference between them: all factory profiles have been standardized for a long time.

Window profiles are white as standard, but they can also be brown - to match the color of any tree, and even pink - on request. Colored profile windows are more expensive than similar white ones.

Window structure

In order to understand what is at stake in the description of the installation process, you need to know the name of each component of the structure.

It consists of:

Frames. This is the base of the window.
If the window consists of several parts, the frame is divided into parts by an impost - a vertical component. If the window is of two parts, there is one impost, If of three - two, etc.
The opening part of the window is called a sash, the fixed part is called a capercaillie. A double-glazed window is inserted into them - two, three or more glasses, hermetically fastened together. A foil tape is laid between the glasses, which ensures tightness. There are double-glazed windows with special properties: with reinforced glass, tinted and energy efficient, which, according to the manufacturers, reduces heat loss through the windows. There are also double-glazed windows, between the glasses of which an inert gas is pumped. It also reduces heat loss.
Double-glazed windows are pressed against the frame with a cap - a thin plastic strip. The tightness of the connection is ensured by a rubber seal (it is usually black).
Locking fittings are installed on the sashes. This is a specific set of mechanisms that provide opening and closing. They can be different, as they provide different functionality: opening, opening with ventilation, opening + ventilation + micro ventilation.
To ensure tightness on all parts - frame, impost and sashes - rubber seals are installed.

At the bottom on the outside of the frame (the one that faces the street) there are drainage holes that are covered with special caps. Through them, condensation is discharged into the street, which forms inside due to the temperature difference between the street and the room.

The window also has an ebb - a board outside that removes precipitation and a window sill inside. Side and top parts from the street and premises. They can also be made of plastic or made using a different technology.

How to measure a plastic window

When ordering windows, you will be asked for six sizes: the height and width of the window, the length and width of the window sill and the slope. In order to measure everything correctly, it is necessary to determine whether you have made a window opening with a quarter or without.

Examine the opening. If the outer part of the window is narrower, the opening is a quarter. In this case, measurements are taken at the narrowest place: openings rarely have ideal geometry, therefore, you will have to measure at several points. Find the smallest value, add 3 cm to it. Transfer the height as it is.

If the opening is even, the calculation is different. Measure the width and height. Subtract 3 cm from the measured width, and 5 cm from the height. This will be the height and width of your window. We remove 3 cm in width, since a gap of at least 1.5 cm is required on both sides for the polyurethane foam. We subtract 5 cm in height, since the same 1.5 cm is needed from above, and 3.5 cm from the bottom will be spent on installing the window sill.

The length of the window sill and low tide is taken with a margin - 5-10 cm more than the width of the window opening. During installation, both the ebb and the window sill "sink" a little into the adjacent walls, and the excess will go there. The ebb tides are standard in width, so the closest larger one is chosen. On the windowsills, the situation is different. Its width is chosen arbitrarily - at the request of the owner. Someone likes wide ones - so that you can put something, someone prefers flush with the wall. So there are no rules.

When ordering, you will need to indicate how many and what parts will be in your window: whether or not the capercaillie is, where it is located, how many doors, which side they are, how they should open. You will need to indicate the type of fittings (ventilation, micro-ventilation).

Preparation

If you change windows, installing plastic windows with your own hands begins with dismantling the old one. Problems usually do not arise: breaking, not building. After dismantling, it is necessary to revise the opening: remove everything that can fall off. If there are any protruding parts, they must be removed - with a hammer, chisel or power tool. When the plane is leveled, all construction debris must be removed. Ideally - sweep everything, even dust, otherwise, during installation, the foam does not “grab” the wall.

If there are too large potholes or cavities, it is better to cover them with cement mortar. The smoother the opening, the easier the installation will be. With a loose material of the walls, they can be treated with binders: penetrating adhesive primers.

How to Install: Choosing an Installation Method

There are two different techniques: with and without unpacking (disassembling) the window. When unpacking, holes are drilled through the frame, through them an anchor is driven into the wall. This method is more difficult, but the fastening is more reliable.

This is an anchor bolt installation. They are placed three pieces on each side.

When installed without unpacking, metal plates are attached to the frame from the outside, and then to the walls. This, of course, is faster, but the fastening is very unreliable: with significant wind loads, the frame will skew or it will sag.

If you really do not want to disassemble the window, you can also mount it on a plate, but use thick and wide rather than narrow and thin ones, which are still often used when installing a rafter system.

In principle, small windows mounted on mounting plates, provided there are no significant wind loads, can stand normally. If you live in a region with strong winds, and they blow mainly through your windows, if the apartment is in a high-rise building on a high floor - in these cases, an installation with unpacking is necessary.

Below you can see an emotional and easy-to-understand video, which explains why it is better to use an anchor.

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows: step-by-step instructions

Let's describe both methods: suddenly you need a method with mounting on plates. It is used in buildings made of foam blocks, the bearing capacity of which is low and the load from the windows has to be distributed over a large surface. This method of installing plastic windows is also necessary if the building is built using a "layered" technology. For example, there is concrete in front and behind, and a layer of insulation between them. If the window should stand exactly in a soft layer, then it will need to be fastened with plates. Installation of PVC windows in brick, cinder block, panel, etc. house is desirable for an anchor.

Installation with unpacking

Do-it-yourself installation of plastic windows begins with measurements. Measure the frame and window opening to make sure they are compatible. Then you can get to work. The process begins with disassembling (unpacking) the PVC window. Here are the steps:

1. 1. 1. Remove the sash of the window:
      - Close the window (handle is turned down).
      - Remove the plastic covers on both hinges. They pry off with a screwdriver.
      - There is a pin on the top hinge that provides a movable connection. It is centered and protrudes slightly. Press on it until it drowns (you can take a metal plate, rest it on the pin and lightly tap on the plate). The pin will slide out from below. It can now be grasped with side cutters or pliers and pulled downwards to remove.
      - Holding the sash at the top, you open the lock. To do this, put the handle in a horizontal position. By tilting the upper part towards you slightly, lift the sash, removing it from the lower pin.
      The entire sash is removed. To make it clearer, watch the video. It describes in detail how to remove and install the sash on a plastic window.
    2. On capercaillie, remove the double-glazed window. It is supported by glazing beads. They need to be removed, then the glass unit itself will be removed without problems. They remove the glazing beads like this:
      - Something narrow and strong is inserted into the gap between the glazing bead and the frame. If no special tool is available, it is best to use a small putty knife. Disassembly begins on one of the long sides.
      - The spatula is carefully driven into the slot with a corner and gradually pushed the glazing bead away from the frame.
      - Without taking out the tool, they move along a little, again pushing the glazing bead aside.
      - So they go along the entire length. As a result, the glazing bead is almost separated, it is simply taken out.
      - With the short side, everything is simpler: the released edge is pushed on and, by turning the spatula, is removed from the groove. Grab the free edge with your hand and pull up.
      Now you can try to remove the glass unit. Just be careful: it's heavy. If it does not work, remove another of the glazing beads. Just make sure that the window is inclined and the glass unit does not fall out. Now, if necessary, you can replace the glass unit yourself. Watch a video on how to remove glazing beads from PVC windows.
  1. The freed frame along the outer perimeter is pasted over with a special self-adhesive tape. Its installation is recommended by GOST. With her, the window is not so cold.
  2. Remove the campaign logo protective tape. If left, it will melt too much with the frame under the influence of the sun and it will be problematic to remove it.
  3. The prepared frame is inserted into the window opening. Mounting wedges are used to position it. They must be installed in the corners and under the impost. The rest are arranged as needed. By placing them, the window is set strictly level in three planes. Pre-fix the position of the window. This is where you can use the mounting plates.
  4. Take a drill and drill, which is the same size as the diameter of the anchors. Make holes for fasteners. 150-180 mm recede from the upper edge. This is the first hole. The bottom is about the same distance from the bottom corner. Another anchor is installed between them in a standard window: the maximum distance between two fasteners should not be more than 700 mm.
  5. Having made a hole, check if the frame has moved (level in all three planes), then hammer in the anchor and tighten it. You cannot drag: the profile should not bend. This operation is repeated as many times as necessary.
  6. Install ebb tides outside. To do this, first, a vapor-permeable waterproofing (it is self-adhesive) is glued to the outer part of the frame. Small grooves are made on the sides of the window opening, into which the edges of the ebb tides are then brought in.
  7. A layer of foam is applied to the part of the window opening from the outside, where the ebb will rest on the wall. Sometimes, if the height difference is large, a lining profile is installed here. and then olive is attached to it. The ebb, cut to size, is brought under the frame ledge and there is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws.
  8. On the lower edge, the ebb is also foaming.
  9. Next, the opening is foamed. When installing plastic windows in summer, the gap between the frame and the window opening is sprayed with water from a spray bottle. This is necessary for better foam polymerization.
  10. A vapor-permeable heat-insulating strip is glued along the frame contour - it is also recommended by GOST.
  11. Take a balloon with foam and fill the existing gaps by 2/3 of the volume. If the size of the gap is large - more than 2-3 cm - foam is applied in several stages. A time interval of 10-15 minutes is required between the two layers. When the first layer is partially dry, it is also sprayed with water and the second is applied. This is repeated until the volume is filled by 2/3.
    Foaming PVC windows during do-it-yourself installation can be carried out in several stages - it depends on the size of the gap
  12. Without waiting for complete polymerization, the free edge of the heat-insulating tape is glued to the window opening. Just note that when using the tape, the slopes will need to be made of plastic: the plaster and mortar do not "stick" to it.
  13. Collect all the pieces of the window. Only finishing work remains, and they are not a hindrance to them.
  14. A vapor barrier tape is also installed under the windowsill in the lower part (also GOST recommendations). The window sill rests on support blocks made of hard grades of impregnated wood. The distance between them is 40-50 cm. They are made in such a way that the window sill is slightly inclined towards the room (about 5 °).

Watch the video on how to properly position the window sill when installing a plastic window. There are many secrets.

Slopes are installed or sealed last. On this occasion, another video.

Installation without unpacking

The main subtleties are described above, so this chapter is short. Installation of this option begins with the installation of the mounting plates. They are of two types: U-shaped and linear. It is important to choose the most reliable thick metal.

They are installed at the same distance as the anchor: 150-250 mm from the edge and no more than 700 mm between the middle ones. They are simply screwed to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Then the installation of plastic windows with your own hands with mounting plates is identical to that described above, starting from the moment the window is level in the opening. Only they do not attach the frame, but the plates and not to the anchor, but to the dowel-nails. Drill a hole, bend the plate, insert the dowel, putting the plate in place, twist the dowel. Further, all actions are identical.

Now it is clear why installers prefer them: a decent chunk of work with disassembly, anchoring, etc., goes away: screws are much easier to tighten. True, if you take powerful plates, they will hold tight. No worse than an anchor. For example, such as in the video.

Before moving on to issues directly related to the installation of windows, it is necessary to clearly define what regulatory documents govern the performance of these types of work.

The following documents contain the most detailed description of work on the installation of windows and the requirements for them:

GOST 30674-99. Contains general information about the "PVC window profile blocks" and the requirements for them. Almost nothing is said directly about the installation.
GOST R52749-2007. Contains information on the installation of window blocks using PSUL (vapor-permeable self-expanding sealing tape).
GOST 30971-2012. A revised and modernized standard, put into effect on 1.01.2014, instead of the outdated GOST 30971-2002, which in most cases was guided earlier.

At the end of the normative part, the following should be noted. The listed normative documents, like most others that are not directly related to safety, are valid, but not mandatory. Nevertheless, following the GOST rules when installing window structures with your own hands, or when purchasing with installation, will allow you to achieve the quality of the work performed.

GOST 30971-2012 describes in sufficient detail the requirements for the construction and filling of joints, the size of window openings and gaps for installation, as well as the types of fastening of structures. In addition, there are general requirements for the execution of work, the preparation of the necessary documentation and minimum warranty obligations.

DIY installation instructions

Measurements

The width and height of the existing window opening is measured. The dimensions of the window are determined as follows:

Width is the measured width of the opening minus double the width of the mounting gap;
The height is calculated in the same way. The minimum gap width in accordance with GOST is 20 mm. In calculations, 25-30 mm are usually taken.

Quite often, in brick houses, the window opening is arranged using an outer quarter. In this case, the measurement is performed on the outside.

The width is equal to the received width between quarters plus the size of the frame factory by a quarter (according to GOST - from 25 to 40 mm.);
The height is equal to the measured distance from the low tide to the upper quarter with the addition of the size of the plant to the upper quarter (according to GOST also from 25 to 40 mm.)

Mounting method (according to GOST)

Directly through the frame in the mounting plane. The most commonly used option, which requires preliminary dismantling of double-glazed windows from fixed doors and prefabricated swing doors.

With the use of fittings built into the frame during manufacture. The structure is assembled as a whole, which requires skills and qualifications due to the considerable mass.

Preparing for installation

After the manufacture and delivery of window structures, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, namely:

clear space in front of the window;
remove furniture;
cover walls, floors and all available structures with foil or thick cloth;

if necessary, dismantle the sashes from the frame (when installing through the frame);
fill (preferably, a day before installation) the inner cavity of the support profile with heat-insulating foam. This process, not mentioned in GOST and often not performed by builders, is performed to prevent the formation of a cold bridge in the place where the profile is attached to the frame.

Installation of a window from a PFC profile

Place wooden blocks or plastic substrates from below on the end of the window opening.
Install a frame or the entire prefabricated structure on them (depending on the type of attachment). Supports remain an integral part of the structure for greater reliability and stability.

The pegs are driven in from the upper side between the window and the wall. They secure the frame from the sides.
Then you need to check the horizontal structure. If necessary, carry out the necessary alignment with the addition of underlays.
Check the verticality of the structure, make adjustments if necessary.
Fix the frame in one of two ways:
- drilling through the holes prepared in the frame in advance, with a punch, mounting holes in the wall, followed by inserting and securing the anchors. It must be remembered that you first need to drill the lower holes, securing the lower part of the structure; then drill and thread the middle and top of the mount. At the end, check the structure for verticality and horizontalness and fix it completely;
- bending the fastening ears to fit them as tightly as possible to the wall, drill an anchor hole in the wall and fix the anchor. Also start at the bottom of the attachment structures, then work up. If possible, it is necessary to check the correct position of the window structures as often as possible.

Plumbing installation

Usually, from the outside of the window structure, there is a groove for installing a drainage system. According to the requirements of GOST, it must be necessarily foamed during installation, it is also allowed to additionally fasten it with screws to create greater structural reliability.

Checking and assembling the window

After completing the installation of the anchors and draining, it is necessary to check the horizontal and vertical position of the installation once again. Then you need to assemble the structures (if necessary), which is performed in the reverse order of disassembly, with the installation of all fittings, handles, limiters, etc.

Filling the gaps

The process takes place with tightly closed sashes and is almost always performed with polyurethane foam. It should be remembered that foamed polyurethane foam is a proven material with a long history of use, however, it also has certain disadvantages. In particular, it is not sufficiently resistant to exposure to open ultraviolet radiation and the external environment.

Therefore, in order to avoid the possible gradual destruction of the insulation and the subsequent freezing and fogging of the windows, GOST prescribes the obligatory insulation of the seam from all sides. For this you need:

from the inside, stick along the perimeter of the window (from the sides and top) a self-adhesive waterproofing tape, which is vapor-tight and used specifically for plastic windows. A foil strip is glued below, which will subsequently be located under the window sill;
on the outside, a membrane moisture-resistant and vapor-permeable adhesive strip (PSUL) capable of releasing steam should be glued along the perimeter.

The above-mentioned materials in a sufficient assortment are offered on the building materials market. Their use will practically not increase the cost of work, but significantly improve their quality, as well as the service life of the structure being installed.

Directly the gap is filled onto the pre-moistened surface from the inside after folding back the self-adhesive strips. For application, a conventional gun and foam designed for year-round use are used. GOST allows the use of ordinary foam, but such windows can be used at temperatures up to -30 degrees. Naturally, in almost all regions of Russia, windows with such insulation of the seam cannot be used.

Window sill installation

A fairly simple process, which consists in fitting (if necessary, trimming) the window sill to fit exactly under the window frame with an emphasis on the lining profile. GOST provides for its entry to the walls - from 50 to 100 mm. Then the pegs are attached to the level at which it should be located, and the cavity under it is sealed with mortar or polyurethane foam.

How is the installation of plastic windows; what nuances should be paid attention to during measurements and installation; common errors, as well as ways to identify them - we will consider these and other pressing issues in this article.

Why are problems with plastic windows so common?

Many people think that PVC windows are as good as they are installed. In many ways, this is true. The fact is that the manufacture of plastic windows is carried out using automated systems, and calculations and design are carried out on computers using specialized software. That is why defects in the assembly of translucent PVC structures are extremely rare, and the notorious "human factor" is at the forefront. It should be noted that in addition to high-quality installation, it is very important to correctly choose a window system that is optimal for certain conditions. And yet, an incorrectly measured window simply cannot be properly installed.

Consequences of poor-quality installation

Opening preparation

Carrying out work on the installation of windows, you always have to spend some time preparing and restoring the opening. This problem is especially relevant when replacing window blocks in old buildings due to extensive damage to dilapidated structures. In an amicable way, it takes two or three days for a high-quality solution, which is simply impossible in residential premises. Quick-hardening cement-based compounds, polyurethane foam in combination with sheet insulation come to the rescue.

After dismantling the old window, the opening must be freed from moving, crumbling particles, protruding elements of the old internal slopes. All surfaces are cleaned of dust, dirt, oil stains. Loose areas should be fixed by filling with a waterproof binder.

Large voids formed when replacing window blocks, for example, between the rows of facing and bearing brickwork, are sealed with dense insulation, all through holes are foamed.

In addition, it is necessary to remove the build-up of mortar, close up cavities and chips on the inner surfaces of the quarter, exceeding 10 mm in height. Such attention to this area of the opening is due to the fact that a hermetically sealed band seal will be placed here.

Installation of plastic windows

Placing and Temporarily Fixing Window Blocks

Windows can be installed in a pre-prepared opening, both assembled and with the shutters and double-glazed windows removed. In any case, the window unit must have an installation profile designed for mounting the window sill and ebb.

With the help of a level or a plumb line, the windows are exposed in compliance with the required installation gaps within the permissible deviations - up to 1.5 mm per meter, but not more than 3 mm for the entire length of the product. The difference in window diagonals should not exceed 8 mm. If the opening does not have a quarter limiting the location of the window block, then it is recommended to install the product at a certain distance from its outer edge - at least 1/3 of the thickness of the load-bearing wall. If the wall is heterogeneous, with insulation - in the zone of the insulation layer.

With the help of plastic mounting wedges, the window is fixed in the opening. Such wedges are installed in pairs in the corners of the window block, the thickness is adjusted by moving them relative to each other by several intermeshing teeth. The prefabricated plastic shoe has an air chamber, therefore it is not a cold bridge, like a homemade wooden block, and besides, it does not deform with changes in temperature and humidity. The recommended wedge width is 100-120 mm. After fixing the window with fasteners, all mounting blocks are removed, except for the lower support wedges. It is they who transfer the load to the supporting base, and not the lower assembly seam.

Attention! If the window has a vertical central bulkhead - impost, then the supporting wedges should be placed directly below it.

Fastening PVC windows

Depending on the design and density of wall materials, the weight and dimensions of the product, the strength of wind loads, the size of the mounting clearances, the optimal type and number of fasteners is selected. For fastening windows to openings, plastic or metal anchor dowels, construction screws or mounting plates are used.

Polymer dowels are used for walls made of materials of low strength - lightweight concrete, hollow brick, wood, and also to avoid contact corrosion in aggressive environments. Plastic frame dowels provide good thermal insulation of the connected elements.

Self-tapping screws fasten windows to wooden bases - rough frames, embedded elements, wooden frame racks.

Flexible anchor plates are used for multi-layer wall structures, if there is insulation in the area of the window block, and the attachment point must be removed outside of it.

Metal expansion dowels provide excellent resistance to shear loads arising in solid mineral substrates such as concrete, solid brick, natural stone.

The length of the fasteners is selected in such a way that the expansion element of the anchor is immersed in the base for at least 40 mm. The diameter of the dowels should not be less than 8 mm.

Fasteners must be located in the range of 150-180 mm from the inner corner of the window block and 120-180 mm on both sides of the impost. If there is no mullion connection, then one dowel should be located along the line of the shtulpal narthex of the two doors. The distance between the fasteners should not exceed 700 mm for white and 600 mm for tinted windows, therefore an anchor is almost always placed in the area of the middle of the window side profile.

Through holes are drilled in the pre-determined places in the window frame, so that the heads of the dowels and locking screws are recessed into the rebate of the window profile and can be closed with decorative plugs or caps. Depending on the features of the wall materials, anchor holes are drilled in them or drilled with a perforator in a mixed mode - drilling with a blow.

Attention! The drilling depth of the holes in the walls must be at least 10 mm deeper than the length of the anchor part extending into the base.

Flexible anchor plates are attached to the windows before they are installed in the installation opening. To do this, they are snapped into the grooves outside the plastic profile and screwed to it with screws and a drill, the diameter of which must be at least 5 mm and at least 40 mm long. After fixing the window in the opening, the plates are bent and are attached to the wall using plastic expansion dowels with a diameter of 6 mm.

Attention! Each plate should have two attachment points.

Mounting gap filling technology

According to the current GOSTs, when installing plastic windows, a three-layer system of assembly seams must be used. This design was based on a rather simple idea, which was once implemented by German specialists. The main component of the installation gap is the central layer in the form of polyurethane foam, which performs a sound and heat insulation function and must remain dry under all circumstances for correct operation. The inner layer protects the insulation from moisture penetration from the inside of the room, in other words, it is a vapor barrier. Self-adhesive tapes or vapor-proof mastic sealants are used for this. The outer layer is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape (PSUL), which allows moisture to pass from the foam insulation, but is moisture-proof from the outside.

The device of a complex seam begins with the installation of the PSUL on a quarter of the opening, 3-5 millimeters from its edge. Thus, a front mounting gap is formed, the size of which is regulated by the working thickness of the sealing tape compressed by at least 25% - in practice, this is about 3 to 20 mm. In some cases, for example, if a quarter of a brick has joining or other minor irregularities, the tape is glued directly to the window profile.

Attention! The current GOST 2007 in article 5.1.9. allows the embedding of the outer layer with plaster compounds, while the previous standard forbade this, allowing only the use of profile details: strip strips, false quarters, ebb tides.

Note that the use of an ebb tide is a prerequisite for ensuring reliable protection of the assembly seam from atmospheric moisture. The ebb tide should extend 30-40 mm beyond the facing of the outer walls; sound-absorbing pads can be installed under it.

Further, after the final fixing of the window in the opening with the help of anchors or flexible plates, the assembly seam is filled with a layer of foam. Foaming is carried out with a fully assembled window unit. Please note that expansion gaskets must be installed between the glass unit and the profile.

As we have already said, the central layer, depending on the dimensions and features of the windows, can vary from 15 to 40 millimeters. The foam sealant should be applied in a continuous uniform layer, without the formation of voids, tears, cracks. That is why, with a large width of the window profile, or if the width of the installation gap significantly exceeds the standard, polyurethane foam is applied in stages, observing technological breaks for drying the layers. It is recommended to do a test foaming of a small area before filling the joint in order to determine the expansion of the polyurethane sealant. The foam should not extend beyond the outer plane of the window profile.

Attention! Cutting off excess foam makes the central layer too hygroscopic, so this operation is performed only in extreme cases and only from the inner surface of the assembly seam.

On top of the dried foam insulation, a vapor barrier tape is glued onto the opening or mastic is applied. An important stage in the construction of the inner layer of the assembly seam can be considered the processing of mating elements of the window system with silicone or acrylic sealants, such as the cladding of the slope, the window sill, as well as the joints of individual window blocks with each other and with stand, pivot, expansion profiles.

At the end of the installation of windows, the protective film must be removed from the frames and sashes.

The main mistakes when installing plastic windows

The first thing worth paying attention to is the deviation of the details of the installed window unit from the vertical and horizontal lines. Recall that modern standards allow for inaccuracies of installation up to 1.5 mm per linear meter or 3 mm for the entire product. The vertical, perhaps, is best checked using a plumb line and a tape measure fixed near the window, measuring the distance from the thread stretched under the weight of the cone to the window profile. When using this method, the dimensions of the product do not matter, because we are able to measure along the entire length of the profile. The horizontalness of the parts can be checked by placing on the vertical profiles of the window, including imposts, control marks using the hydro level and subsequent measurements of the distance from them to the edges of the product. Note that only expensive rack levels allow a more or less qualitative study of deviations, but in most cases their length is clearly not enough to understand the overall picture.

If there are deviations only vertical or only horizontal, then this means that the box is skewed and has no right angles. The lengths of the diagonals are checked with a tape measure - the maximum allowable difference can be 8 mm.

Next, you should check the window for deformations of the window profiles. For these purposes, along the lines of the outer edges of the window profiles, from corner to corner, pull the cord - the deviations are determined visually. A very common problem is the curvature of the middle of the side profiles towards the center of the window. This happens when the installation is carried out on flexible anchor plates that are not able to contain the pressure of the expanding foam, or if there are no spacers between the glass unit and the profile. The deflection of horizontal profiles occurs for the same reasons.

It is very important to check the correctness of the choice and technology of application of a certain type of fasteners. Very often, installers completely unreasonably prefer to use anchor plates for all occasions, since it is much easier to display a product with their help, moreover, they do not need to remove the sashes and remove the double-glazed windows. You should be as serious as possible in fulfilling the requirements regarding the number and location of fasteners.

The absence of support blocks under the installation profile (most often under the vertical impost) or the use of homemade wooden wedges instead. As a rule, this error is paired with a more serious one - too small or zero mounting gap at the bottom of the window.

Violation of the technology of the installation of assembly seams is mainly in the too small dimensions of the gaps, the discontinuity of the insulating layers or their absence. The most common mistake can be considered overflowing foam material, which entails deformation of the profiles and the need to cut off excess gasket.

A related problem causes the blowing of the joints of the elements of the window system - the window sill, the facing of the slope, connecting, expansion, turning profiles. This is a banal lack of sealing their joints with self-expanding tapes or acrylic, silicone.

Installers often incorrectly mount connected window units, for example, on glazed balconies. The windows are not located in the same plane - "little book". It is quite simple to check this, you should pull the cord in front of the front line of the window, from corner to corner, and take measurements with a tape measure.

Also, there are frequent cases of placing adjacent windows not along one horizontal line, or without reference to the geometry of the facade. For example, this is very important on a bay window, panoramic glazing, where one complex window sill can be used with several window blocks. And again, the water level will come to the rescue, making it possible to put mutually located horizontal marks at a sufficient distance.

Problems arising from errors in the assembly of PVC windows, and how to solve them, we will definitely consider in the following articles.

How to avoid poor-quality installation of plastic windows?

Use the services of a large company, it is better if it is a manufacturer of window systems, and not an intermediary.
Study in detail the technology of installation of PVC windows. No wonder they say: "Aware is then armed."
Prepare a storage area for materials. Free up space as much as possible near window openings, cover pieces of furniture and household appliances with polyethylene, isolate the rest of the premises, and fence off the working area outside.
Discuss all the technological nuances with the measurer, be constantly present during the installation - do not forget about the large number of hidden works.
Before and after installing windows, check the integrity of the profiles and glass unit, the performance of the fittings.
Do not sign the acceptance certificate for new windows until you check the quality of their installation.
If you still find problems later - blowing, mashing, then feel free to contact the contractor with a request to eliminate the malfunctions. In the overwhelming majority of cases, all problems are promptly resolved by the manufacturer.