Women who don't like beautiful flowers called roses probably don't exist. They are presented to both young girls and ladies of different ages. Together with these wonderful flowers, they confess their love and give them for any holidays. The petals of these beautiful creatures are used to prepare various cosmetics for skin care. Roses are used to make culinary masterpieces. Rose petals are used in folk medicine.
If you want to grow roses - these beautiful flowers on your site, then you must not only have the necessary skills, but also love roses, plus have great patience in caring for them. But roses, experiencing the love of a gardener, will certainly thank him with lush flowering and a wonderful aroma that fills his garden.
In order for roses to take root on the site and delight the eye with their long flowering for a long time, you need to know the rules for caring for these popular plants. Therefore, we will consider in detail what needs to be done during the year for the good development of rose bushes, starting in spring.
There are such types of roses as:
- Park;
- Shrub;
- Climbing;
- Hybrid tea;
- Floribunda;
- Groundcover;
- Canadian.
With such a rich choice, you can plant such and rosaries, from which it will take your breath away with delight.
Rose bushes are planted both in spring and autumn, it all depends on the region where the site is located, prepared for planting roses. If the gardener lives in the Krasnodar Territory or central Russia, then the bushes are planted during September and the first half of October.
During these periods, there is no longer heat and there is enough time and natural precipitation for the bushes to take root in a new place. If rose bushes are planted at the latitude of the Moscow region and to the south, then planting is carried out in the spring, starting from mid-April, when the sun warms up well.
When choosing a place for planting bushes, you need to take care that the sun falls on them during the day. If it is not there, then the blooming of roses will not wait.
Stages of work:
- When the gardener decides on the planting site, a 50x50 cm pit is dug out and not a lot of humus and peat is laid in it.
- The seedling is installed vertically in the pit, its roots are straightened in different directions and covered with earth from all sides. After that, you need to press the ground with your hands so that the voids go away, and the seedling sits firmly in the ground.
- After all the procedures, the planted seedling must be watered. If at the same time the water eroded the soil, then it should be poured. The planted seedlings must be constantly watered; overdrying of the soil is unacceptable.
Before lowering the rose seedling into the prepared hole, damaged roots are removed from it, and too long ones are shortened. The place where the vaccination was made is buried 5 cm into the soil.
When planting rose bushes, one must take into account that their size will increase over time and therefore, when planting them along the path, one must retreat from the planted bush at least 70 cm.
You can propagate a bush in various ways:
- By cuttings;
- Dividing the old bush;
- Layers;
- Vaccination;
- Root shoots, in the event that the rose is planted on its own roots.
Cuttings
This method of propagating a bush has its advantages. First of all, he will never have a wild growth to fight against. For the cuttings, a semi-lignified shoot with three buds is taken. The lower cut is made oblique, at an angle of 45 degrees, the upper cut is made straight to reduce the amount of moisture evaporating from the cut of the cutting.
The lower cut is treated with any stimulant for root formation, a branch with leaves is removed, and the upper leaves are shortened by half. Then the cutting is planted in peat or sand, deepening the cutting just a couple of centimeters and slightly tilting it to the side.
It is covered with a jar or covered with a bag. It is important to create humid greenhouse conditions here. For its rooting, it is necessary that it be warm, not lower than 25 degrees Celsius, humidity should be almost 100%, the sun's rays should not fall on a young plant.
Such a seedling can even be left to winter in the ground if it is planted in central Russia or in the south of our country. But for this, together with the jar, they are completely buried in the ground and covered with a special material.
How to grow a rose from cuttings in potatoes
By dividing the bush
Climbing roses and park roses reproduce by this species with its own root system. To do this, a bush is dug up and divided in such a way that in each separated part there is a root system and a pair of branches. Then all the parts are planted in the usual way and care for them is needed as for an ordinary seedling.
Layers
In this way, ground cover and climbing varieties reproduce well. To do this, in the spring, they take a non-woody shoot, bend it to the ground, put it in a groove 10 cm deep, pin it. Then you need to cover with earth and water. The top of such a shoot should look out of the ground. After a year, the branch becomes a seedling and can be separated from the mother bush.
Graft
Grafting is done on a rosehip grown either from seeds or from a cuttings. To do this, take a stalk or eye of the selected rose variety. Vaccination time is mid-summer. They take a stock and clean the top of it, slightly split the vine, inserting a cutting into it. Attach one to the other tightly with an adhesive plaster. If after a while the growth of the cutting began, it means that the vaccination was successful.
But it is best to immediately buy your favorite variety of roses in special garden centers. When choosing a seedling, it is necessary that it has three branches for the development of a lush bush. Healthy roots are a must! The leaves should not be dry.
Caring for roses is needed day after day, since removing weeds and loosening the soil is not only giving the rose garden a decent look, but also serves as a prerequisite for cultivating roses. Loosening begins in May and continues to loosen the ground around the bush until the end of summer.
Further loosening is stopped so as not to provoke the growth of new shoots. By loosening the soil, the root system receives more air and this stimulates the growth of new shoots on the bush. It is especially good to do this in hot summer after watering.
After prolonged rains, a crust forms on the surface of the soil, it blocks the access of oxygen to the plant's root system. Therefore, during such periods it is necessary to do additional loosening of the soil so that the bushes can grow and develop normally. But you need to know that loosening around the bush is carried out to a depth of no more than 10 cm so as not to damage the small roots of the root system of the bush.
Mulching and feeding rose bushes
Mulching the soil around the bush is carried out in order to retain moisture in the soil and partially get rid of weeds. And if mulching is carried out using peat or rotted manure, then this will also serve as an additional fertilizer for the plant. Peat or other mulching material is laid out in a layer up to ten centimeters. But all this must be done before the buds begin to dissolve on the bush.
After planting a rose in its first summer, the bush is fertilized three times. So, due to the biological characteristics of roses, at different times, different feeding is needed.
Simultaneous fertilization with mineral and organic fertilizers gives great efficiency. Since organic matter nourishes the rose bushes, saturating it with nitrogen.
We must not forget that all fertilizing must be done either after rain or after watering. This is done to prevent the root system from being burnt by taking fertilizer onto dry soil. If the florist decided to use dry fertilizers, in no case should they be poured into the center of the bush.
Fertilizers are poured around the bush at a distance of about 20 cm. And after that, you need to water the plants again so that the fertilizers get into the soil. If the soil is clayey on the site, then fertilizing is carried out less often, and if it is sandy soil, then fertilizing should be carried out more often, since there is almost no organic matter in such soil.
When a long flowering period begins, roses do not need to be fed at all.
Rose bushes, like all plants, need watering. If you do not water, the bushes lose their leaves and the buds wither prematurely or do not bloom at all. Most of all, roses need water during the period of growth of the vegetative mass and until the end of the first flowering.
Watering is done with warm water in the amount of 10 liters. under each bush. Water is poured under each bush, into a specially designated trench, and not into the center of the bush. In hot sunny weather, when watering a rose bush, it is better not to splash water on the leaves when watering, as this can provoke the appearance of brown spots on the foliage. This will be the result of burns.
Watering is done once a week, and if the degrees are over 35 degrees of heat, then on such days roses will respond well to evening sprinkling - this is watering done in the evening with a hose not only under the bush, but also over the leaves of the bush. But they water this way only on hot days, when a shadow from the setting sun has formed on the site.
How to grow roses in your garden - proper watering If the bushes are watered daily and a little, then such watering will not help the plant get drunk. Since it has a root system that goes 2-3 meters deep into the ground.
It is important to remember that it is impossible to water the roses with cold water, since the rose bushes begin to ache, their thin roots die off and after a while the plant begins to dehydrate.
There are also peculiarities in watering at the end of the season. At the beginning of autumn, watering is reduced, since time must be given for the shoots to ripen. Therefore, autumn precipitation is quite enough for watering roses. Only in especially hot September or in the Krasnodar Territory should watering be done, but only in a half dose - 6 liters. under the bush once a week. Matured shoots will be better able to endure wintering in the latitudes of Russia.
Caring for roses also includes sheltering them for the winter. Since this is a heat-loving plant, a cold snap to -10 degrees can cause the death of the plant. Some advise to cut off unripe shoots for the winter, and some cut off in the spring only what has not survived the winter and has turned black.
To hide the roses, you can cover them with earth, peat or compost from above. All this can be diluted with pine sawdust. The covering material is prepared in advance and at the first cold snaps they cover the bushes with them. The layer of covering material should be about 35-40 cm. If the area with rose bushes is located at the latitude of Moscow, then it is covered with lutrasil or spruce branches from above.
Everything that is prepared for warming roses must be dry, otherwise it will be covered with ice during a cold snap and it will be impossible to shelter roses for the winter.
The lutrasil shelter method cannot be used on soils with a close occurrence of groundwater or in swampy soil, because a greenhouse effect will arise and the roses will freeze out in winter. In the spring, when the weather is above zero, the covering material is carefully removed, and the rest of the earth or peat is washed off with a bucket of water.
Spring is the time when the bush intensively develops from the buds that survived the long cold months of winter. If cold snaps to sub-zero temperatures are no longer expected, then the bushes should be dug out of the shelter for the winter. This is easy to do if you simply pour a bucket of water into the middle of the bush. The excess land that covered the bush in winter will go in different directions around the bush. It is better to do this on cloudy days, so that the branches that were covered by snow and earth are not burnt in the spring sun.
At this time, a new growth of branches begins, on which flower buds are laid and young leaves grow, depending on the variety, either light green or red. At the same time, the branches of the rootstock (rosehip) may sprout, they should be cut out so that the bush does not eventually turn into an ordinary rosehip instead of a wonderful rose bush.
How to distinguish rose hips? It is lighter in color and almost completely straight, fast-growing shoot; in a couple of days it grows to a height of about a meter, clogging the branches of a rose. To get rid of it, you should carefully dig a bush in the place where this wild shoot appeared from the ground and just cut it off in the ground with a pruner or a sharp shovel. Let the cut dry for a couple of hours and dig in this place.
It is also necessary to cut off all blackened shoots. These shoots are frozen and dormant buds that will grow in spring and summer do not exist on them. Therefore, the shoots are cut to a healthy place on the branch, and at the same time the last waiting bud should be located not inside the bush, but outside. This will help to avoid thickening the bush and form its shape correctly. Pruning should not be done in rainy weather, so as not to provoke rotting of the branches.
After the spring pruning of the branches, the bushes should be fed either with mullein infusion, diluted 1 to 10, or with a full mineral fertilizer. This will help the bush to grow branches and lay flower buds on them, which will delight with their flowering.
So that roses do not hurt, it is best to prevent the development of the disease. After all, when caring for it, the bush is always in front of your eyes, and, having noticed the onset of the disease or a small nest of pests, you need to cut off this part of the bush, and treat the remaining branches with an appropriate drug.
Pests and diseases of roses Even new hybrids that are resistant to most pests sometimes pick up various diseases of rose bushes:
- gray rot;
- powdery mildew;
- rusty spots on the leaves;
- cicadas;
- different types of ticks;
- leaf rollers and sawflies.
Unfavorable weather conditions can also contribute to the appearance of these diseases. Therefore, when examining rose bushes, at the slightest manifestation of disease or pests, one must begin to get rid of such a misfortune, otherwise all bushes may suffer.
Read about here.
The rose is beautiful and, without any doubt, is the "queen of flowers". By properly planting and taking care of them, you can enjoy the beauty of your rose garden for many, many years.
You just need to learn how to comply with some simple rules for the cultivation of a beautiful culture. Learn the basics five P rules: planting, fertilizing, watering, pruning, covering for the winter.
Planting roses
The most important condition for the abundant flowering of the bush is landing place... Roses are sensitive to light and heat, which means that they should be planted in places that are well lit and reliably protected from cold winds. The best place is the south and southeast side of the site, for the rose enjoys the morning and afternoon sun. Shady places are only suitable for.It is recommended to plant roses in spring.... Rose beauties are thermophilic plants, and as soon as the soil has warmed up well and the buds have not yet blossomed, you can start planting roses. Planting in the fall is a risky business, because not every rose bush is able to fully root before frost appears and often dies.
Before planting, carefully examine the roots: cut off all damaged parts to living tissue, leave the remaining roots no more than 20 cm. Shorten the shoots on the bush, leave strong shoots with 6 buds, medium - with three, weak and dried cut out completely.
The planting hole for the rose should be wide and deepso that the roots of the bush after planting are spacious. It is very important to sprinkle the place of budding (grafting) by 5-7 cm with a layer of earth, compact the soil around the bush and water it abundantly (a bucket of water on the bush). Protecting the seedlings from the bright spring sun, cover with a nonwoven fabric. Uncook the shoots and remove the shelter when the ground is fully warmed up and the size of the shoots reaches about 5 cm.
The soil is prepared in advance: fertilized and. From organic - the best fertilizer for roses is, and the first fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizer should be thorough, but not more than 15-20 g per bush. An overdose will negatively affect the roses.
For spring planting of roses, you prepare the soil in the fall, everything is quite simple: you dig spacious holes to a depth of up to 1.2 m with a diameter of half a meter, fill it with drainage (branches, large gravel, expanded clay), put a mixture of garden soil and humus on top, adding mineral fertilizers. When planting holes in the autumn for the bushes, cook for a month and a half. The best seedlings are those of the first two years. To stimulate the growth of roses, when planting, you need to cut off the tops of the shoots.
In the next video, you can see how to prepare for planting and plant a rose purchased in a box in spring. The author will show you how to properly spread the roots of a plant, prepare a planting pit and plant the "queen of flowers".
Taking into account the size of the variety of rose bush and the rate of growth, it is recommended to observe landing interval from half a meter to one meter... In general, you determine the distance between the bushes individually, in pursuit of your goal.
Large spray roses look great in single plantings (for example, a lawn and in general any free corner of the garden). In the rose garden, it is necessary to observe the distance from one meter to one and a half (or 1.2 m) from the neighboring bush.
For miniature rose bushes, which are planted to create curbs (near paths or flower beds), a distance of sixty to seventy centimeters is enough.
Views climbing roses they love "loneliness", but it must be borne in mind that they do not stay in this state for long - the bushes grow rapidly. If you want to create a "wall" of climbing roses, you need to plant seedlings at a distance from a meter to two. In the spring, a rose transplant is also carried out, try not to damage the roots and small processes of the roots.
Fence entwined with roses
If you purchased seedlings long before planting, then the publication will help you save a new pet.
Rose care
Caring for roses is loosening the soil, weeding, fertilizing, watering, fighting diseases and pests, pruning and shaping a bush.In order for roses to develop normally and bloom profusely, their need to be fed... Roses respond very gratefully to the timeliness of feeding. The first feeding should be done in the spring, when the buds appear, the second - in the middle of summer, for abundant flowering. At the end of summer, feeding is not necessary to avoid the appearance of new shoots that will not ripen for wintering.
Today, many feeding complexes have been developed, so choosing the right fertilizer is not difficult. Do not "overfeed" the rose bushes with a large dose of fertilizer, otherwise the plant's reaction will be unpredictable: from growing green mass to stopping flowering or even development. Do not forget in two or three years in early spring to bring some rotted or manure under the bushes.
Roses need to be watered abundantly once a week, best in the early morning or evening. It is necessary to constantly loosen the soil near the bush so that it does not overcompact around it, since the roots need constant access to oxygen.
You need to prune roses every spring before the kidneys awaken. Completely remove the weak and sick, old and dry stems, be sure to remove the shoots that appeared below the place where the graft was made, otherwise the bush will degenerate into a rose hip.
In practice, various types of pruning are used: weak, when from 8 to 12 buds remain on the shoot, moderate - with 4-6 buds and strong - they cut off most of the shoot, leaving only 2-3 buds. A strong pruning is often required after a poor winter in order to quickly renew the bush. Pruning roses is carried out with a sharp tool in order to avoid mechanical damage to the bark, the wounds must be covered with garden pitch.
Should you prune the buds in the fall?
With the onset of cold weather, you need to think about sheltering bushes roses. Today, some varieties of acclimatized varieties can winter without shelter. But flower growers say: in a harsh winter, the bushes can die. It is necessary to choose the optimal time for warming roses, and this is the beginning of November, because if this is done early, then there is a likelihood of danger for the roots, because they have already begun to fall asleep and they cannot come to life.
Many rose lovers make a big mistake, overly "wrapping" their roses for the winter from frost. In this case, the roses die due to the drying out of the bushes. No need to cover roses for the winter with spruce branches or branches - so roses die in spring (most often in March).
If you did not find peat, cover the bushes in the winter with just loose earth, as the frost increases, pouring it on a cone with a slide (no more than 10-15 cm). In the third decade of March, all shelter devices need to be removed, peat or soil removed, and after another week or two, roses can be fed. You can read the discussion of how to insulate roses before the onset of cold weather in the discussion
Three or four times per season, roses must be sprayed with special agents to combat fungal diseases, rust and pests.
Rose varieties
Today the assortment of roses includes numerous types, shapes, varieties and varieties. Every year it is replenished with about 200 new varieties. For decorative landscaping, roses are grown mainly of two groups: park and garden.Park roses - these are species and varieties that grow without requiring shelter, or winter with light protection. Special attention should be paid to roses spiky, thigh-leaved or small-leaved, cinnamon, red-leaved or gray-gray, rusty, shiny, yellow, prickly (wrinkled) and others. The group of park roses is also represented by frost-resistant species - a variety of centifolium, damask, white and French.
Garden roses bred selectively, during their cultivation, agricultural technology is actively used. They are quite delicate and definitely require protection in the winter. Currently, more than 20 thousand of their varieties are grown. The most popular are the groups of climbing roses, semi-climbing, miniature roses, Cordes roses, mossy.
Rose is a very fragrant flower. And if your rose garden is filled with noble bushes, you will constantly admire the continuous flowering of remontant, climbing flower waterfalls, collect wonderful bouquets of miniature species and inhale the scent of the most beautiful flowers on earth.
Other interesting and useful articles about roses.
The rose is a noble flower that can beautify any garden, but it requires proper maintenance. To begin with, it is worth considering in a little more detail the process of planting this plant. It is, in fact, not as difficult as it might seem. About the intricacies of planting a rose and caring for it in the open field - further in the article.
It is best to plant only high-quality roses, and therefore, you need to choose the right planting material. It is advisable to select plants with a closed root system. Today you can buy rose seedlings in different places, for example, in the market, in an online store. Do not believe the photograph that is attached to the seedling. So, the photo may show a rose of an unusual lilac color, but in fact an ordinary red one will grow. In addition, it is not known in what conditions the seedlings were stored, and with what they were grafted. It is best to buy them in a special nursery, where you can see the roses live. The seedlings can be sold in three forms: in containers, with an open root system, or with a clod of earth wrapped in a black plastic bag. Of the options listed, those that were purchased in a container take root best. In mid-May or summer, it is better to buy roses in a pot. When choosing a seedling, you should pay attention to its aboveground part. Be sure to check the label of the plant. If it bears the ADR mark, then this indicates that this variety is frost-hardy and resistant to various ailments. It is these plants that are most suitable for growing on the site. How to plant roses
It is important to choose the right landing time. Consider planting roses in the spring and caring for them first. So, during this period, it is better to plant these plants in the middle lane when the soil warms up to at least +10 degrees. Usually such conditions are formed in late April or early May. In the spring, standard roses are usually planted. However, most varieties are best planted in the fall. It is recommended to start work around mid-September, and finish no later than mid-October. If you plant roses earlier, then very weak shoots may appear, which will freeze in winter. Late landing is also dangerous, because the plant will not have time to take root before the onset of frost. As for the landing site, it should be sunny. In the shade, roses may stop blooming, and dark spots will appear on the leaves. In addition, the area must be well ventilated, but there must be protection from strong gusts of wind. But roses have no particular preferences for soil. So, they can grow without any problems on any soil, with the exception of heavy clay and light sandy loam. It is important that the planting site is not located where groundwater is close to the ground.
To plant a seedling, you will need to dig a hole, the size of which must be large enough for the roots to be spacious. In addition, the depth of the hole depends on the quality of the soil. So, if for planting on fertile soil there is enough depth and width of 0.6 m, then on clay soil you will have to make a hole with a depth and width of at least 0.7 m.A nutrient mixture will be poured into the finished hole, which must be prepared in advance. It contains humus or compost, as well as rotted manure. Before fertilizing, the roots of the seedling should be sprinkled with earth. Before planting seedlings, a small amount of water is poured into the hole. If the root system of the planted rose is closed, then the roots do not need to be cleaned from the ground. The root shaft is trimmed to about 1/3 of its length and soaked in water for about a couple of hours. You also need to cut shoots. Different varieties do this differently. So, let's talk a little about hybrid tea roses, planting and caring for them. Plants of these varieties are pruned so that a couple of buds remain on each shoot. In park crops, when pruning, the shoots are shortened by about 100-150 mm. In floribunda roses, no more than three buds are left on the shoot. In ground cover varieties, the roots are usually cut off. The seedlings must be sprinkled so that the grafting site is approximately 50 mm above the ground. If there is wax at the burial site, it should be removed. The earth needs to be tamped and watered. This will remove the remaining air and thereby create close contact between the soil and plant roots. The seedling still needs to be spud. After about a couple of weeks, the pile of soil on top must be removed. Rose care rules
Rose care includes loosening soil, fertilizing, weeding, watering, disease and pest control, and pruning and shaping the bush. In order for the flowers to grow and develop without problems, they need to be periodically fed with fertilizers. The first feeding is best done in the spring, after the buds appear, and the second in July. At the end of summer, it is better not to fertilize so that new weak shoots do not appear that will not survive the winter. Do not apply too much fertilizer. Otherwise, unpredictable reactions may occur. In particular, an excess of fertilizer can stop flowering. A couple of years after planting in early spring, rotted manure or compost should be added. Pruning is usually done in early spring when the buds are not active. Weak and diseased stems and overgrowth should be removed. This must be done in order for the rose bush to develop correctly. In practice, various types of pruning are used. So, with weak pruning, 10 buds should be left on each stem, with moderate pruning, 4-7 buds, and with strong pruning, most of the shoot is removed so that no more than 3 buds remain. The latter option is often required after a bad winter, which will allow the rose bush to renew faster. So that the bark does not get damaged during pruning, the tool must be sharp enough, and the wounds should be covered with garden varnish. Closer to winter, you should consider covering your rose bushes. Today, some types of these flowers are able to overwinter without shelter, but still you should not count on this. The optimal time should be chosen for warming the culture. This is usually done in early November. Do not cover early because it can damage the roots. Some gardeners wrap their rose bushes too much, which is a mistake, because this can lead to death due to damping. Roses do not need to be covered with branches or spruce branches. It is best to insulate it with peat, but if you have not found it, then you can cover it with loose earth. In the third decade of March, the insulation can be removed, and after another week it is recommended to do the first top dressing. During the season, the flowers need to be sprayed three times with special agents that allow you to fight fungal diseases, as well as pests and rust. Most of the varieties of roses are grafted. This is done in order to improve the plant's immunity to fungal infections. In some cases, overgrowth may appear. This is the name of the branches that extend from the root shaft below the graft site. They are called wild. They usually have leaves like those of a rosehip, i.e. small and light. Therefore, they stand out strongly against the general background. Wild growth must be fought. The fact is that such shoots not only spoil the appearance of the bush, but also take a lot of nutrients from healthy branches, which, in turn, makes the bush weak. To eradicate wild growth, they do the following: they dig out the place where such an shoot appeared, and cut it at the root. If you cut off only the aerial part of the growth, then several more buds may appear, due to which even more wild shoots will grow. Rose watering rules
It is recommended to water this noble culture no more than once a week. If the summer is hot, then you will need to water it twice a week. For each bush, it is enough to pour no more than one bucket of water, and the water must be warm. It must penetrate into the soil at least to a depth of 200-300 mm. If the watering of roses is shallow, then roots can crawl out to the surface, which can easily be damaged. If you know that roses will not be watered for a long time, for example, due to departure, then it is recommended to cover the soil at the base with humus, mown grass. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture from the roots. If there is not enough moisture, the flowers of the plant can grow small and weak, and excess moisture can lead to oxygen starvation, which is why the leaves usually turn yellow. To prevent this, it is recommended to loosen the soil after watering. CultivarsToday there are so many varieties of this culture that it is pointless to list them all. About 200 new varieties of these flowers appear every year. All varieties can be divided into two groups:
Let us dwell on their description in more detail. So, the first group includes varieties that grow in open areas and do not require shelter. They can endure winter with light protection. This group includes frost-resistant species. As for the group of garden roses, all of them were bred through selection. They are grown with the active use of agrotechnical devices. Roses that belong to this group are quite delicate and must be properly protected for the winter. Today more than 20 thousand varieties of this group are grown. The most popular are the groups of climbing and semi-climbing roses, as well as feathers and Cordes roses. Climbing roses: planting and care
A little more detail should be said about this group of roses. We are talking about climbing varieties. Today they are considered the most popular. The varieties of this group appeared as a result of the crossing of several plant species. So, when breeding, the Japanese Vihura rose, multiflora rose, as well as hybrid tea roses were crossed. Many varieties of climbing roses are actively used in landscape design, in particular, when creating garden and park compositions. An important feature is that these varieties begin to bloom only in the second year after planting.
Roses planting and care: photo
Rose planting and care: video |
Rose is a plant belonging to the Rosehips. In the wild, these flowers mainly grow in the temperate climate of the Northern Hemisphere, but in our central Russia, roses are grown for planting and care in the open field, as well as at home.
General information
Roses are very attractive and are not only used as ordinary garden plants or houseplants. They are used in gardening, rose petal jam, and rose oil.
Growing up, roses form bushes with their shoots, the height of which differs depending on the type of plant. Some types of roses reach 30 cm in height, while others grow more than two and a half meters.
The branches of the plant are divided into uterine and annual stems. The shape of the leaf differs depending on the type of flower.
Peduncle size also varies from species to species. It can be short, or it can grow almost a meter. Rose flowers come in various shapes and colors, the size varies from a couple of centimeters in diameter to 15-20 cm. The number of petals in flowers is also different, from 5 to 120 pieces.
Roses come in all possible colors - pink, black, white, even blue roses are bred. And the pinnacle of breeders' achievements are varieties that change color during flowering.
There is no way to describe the huge variety of roses. Among the cultivated roses, park and garden roses are distinguished; it is also worth remembering indoor varieties. Most often, bush roses, climbing, miniature, floribunda and grandiflora roses are grown.
Rose planting and care in the open field
Roses are quite demanding plants, so planting and caring for them requires knowledge of the characteristics of this flower.
Planting roses is best done in the fall, but no later than mid-season. It is also advisable to purchase material for planting in the autumn, since in the spring they are often sold that remained from last year.
Rosehips are photophilous and the place of growing for them should be chosen not shaded, but if you have climbing roses, it is better that the midday sun does not bake them. Drafts and northerly winds are bad for plants, and do not plant flowers in places where groundwater rises high to the surface.
To plant roses, you need to drain the soil, which should be slightly acidic (about pH 6), fertility is not so important, but it affects the beauty of flowering, therefore fertile substrates are welcome.
Before planting roses, the seedlings are shortened to 20 cm and placed in water for a couple of hours. A hole for a rose is dug about 50 cm in, and the depth is made 10 cm deeper than its roots.
The soil from the pit must be mixed with compost. For three lobes of land, one share of compost is taken. It is also worth adding some ash to the substrate, and pouring a bucket of water with a heteroauxin tablet into the hole.
The rose is planted so that the grafting site drops four centimeters into the soil, and for climbing roses - ten centimeters.
The flower must be placed in the hole and carefully covered with substrate, trampling it as the hole is filled. Young plants need to be hilled 15 cm and shaded for 15 days. Climbing roses spud 20 cm.
The distance between the landing sites must be at least one meter.
Not far from the bushes, you need to warm up a small shaft from the soil so that the water does not spread during watering.
If the groundwater is too high on your site, then you need to make an elevated flower bed for the roses, otherwise the roots will often rot.
Also, if the soil where you want to plant the plants is very clayey, then you need to dig it up with sand.
Planting roses in open ground in spring
Young roses may not stand up to very cold winters, so if you live in regions that are too frosty, plant flowers in spring. The best period at this time is mid-April and almost all of May.
The planting process in spring is almost the same as in autumn. Right before planting, the seedlings need to be dipped in a clay mash, and after planting, the site is covered with mulch.
If there is a threat of frost, then the stems must be covered with a film, which must be removed for some time every day for airing. The time without film must be gradually increased, since the plants are hardened in this way. The film is completely removed when the frost is probably gone.
During the first year after planting, roses undergo a formation period. At this time, the main thing is to pinch the stems to improve bushiness. It is also important for the first half of the summer to remove the flower buds as soon as they begin to appear. In the second period of summer, the buds are also removed, but after formation. If you have a climbing rose, then it needs to be supported.
Watering roses
It is not necessary to water the flowers often, but only as needed, when the soil dries up. Regular watering is needed only for the first year, which needs to be watered every couple of days.
During the growing season, watering is carried out a little more often so that the green mass develops better. And at the end of summer, on the contrary, watering is reduced. It is preferable to carry out the procedure in the morning. Do not use cold water.
You need to water the bushes carefully, because water can erode the soil, it is best to use drip irrigation.
Fertilizers for roses
As for fertilizer, the first years do not need to be fed at all. Further, fertilizers must be applied in this way.
In the spring, during the stage of active growth, a double dose of fertilizer is applied, then feeding is carried out during the appearance of buds, at the end of flowering and before the stems begin to grow stiff.
In spring, for fertilization, take 20 grams of ammonium sulfate for each square meter of soil. After a couple of weeks, this fertilization is repeated. During the formation of buds, fertilizing is carried out using 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per square meter.
At the end of flowering, the plant is fed with a complex fertilizer, and in the fall with potassium salt with superphosphate, about 30 grams per square meter. Among organic fertilizers, chicken droppings, ash, and manure are perfect. No fertilization is carried out during the flowering period.
For adult roses, fertilization is possible only with organic matter, but do not overdo it, otherwise the plant may give dense foliage, but not bloom.
When to replant roses
Over time, roses grow and lose their beauty and when this happens, they need to be transplanted. Repotting is best done in April or October, but spring is still preferred.
Before starting the transplant, the bush is cut to 20 cm, and all the leaves are torn off. The bush must be removed from the soil along with an earthen lump. To facilitate its movement, the roots are placed on a piece of cloth. You can plant a rose together with this fabric, it will rot over time.
Climbing roses are transplanted much less frequently, usually only if a bad place is chosen for growing and if the plant dies in the old place. When transplanting this variety of roses, you need to be more careful, since their roots are more sensitive than others.
Pruning roses
In spring, summer and autumn, you need to prune the bushes. Spring pruning is carried out to form a bush shape, in summer it is carried out to clean the bushes from excess buds, dull flowers, and fruits. In the fall, bad stems are removed from the plant.
Pruning is carried out until the buds swell. Only strong branches should be left, of which the young are preferred.
Older plants need to be pruned more carefully, since they restore the crown worse, the same applies to flowers planted on poor soil. After the operation, the cut sites must be treated with garden varnish.
In autumn, these rose hips do not require watering and special supervision, in addition to weeding and loosening the soil.
Preparing roses for the winter
Before winter, they need to be spud with a mixture of peat and sand. Hilling is carried out with the onset of the first frost, and the site is covered with a film to prevent precipitation from falling on them.
Before wintering, leaves are cut off from plants and burned. It is also advisable to treat the bushes with a one percent solution of copper sulfate. When the night temperature drops to -6ºC, roses are warmed with spruce branches.
To prevent rodents from disturbing your plants in winter, you need to scatter poisonous baits around the flower bed.
If you covered the area with insulation and oilcloth, then from time to time it will need to be ventilated so that the bushes do not bump.
Before winter, climbing roses must be removed from the supports and lowered to the ground. Old roses do not fit well and therefore, it will be necessary to bend them to the ground gradually. This procedure must be carried out at positive temperatures, otherwise the bushes will break. Before wintering, a climbing rose is pinned in the soil, and insulated in the same way as an ordinary one.
Rose home care at home
If you want to have a room rose, then remember that they do not like cold water and too hot temperatures in the summer.
When buying a plant, you should not rush to transplant it; first you need to wait for the rose to get used to the new conditions.
During the period of growing green mass, you need to water the rose well, and during the rest of the time, watering is carried out a little less often, but make sure that the water does not stagnate in the pot.
A rose transplant is carried out by transshipment in the waxing moon phase. It is necessary to carry out the operation if the plant has filled the entire pot, if the soil in the container with the plant is depleted or the plant has aged and needs to be rejuvenated.
In summer, moving it to the balcony will benefit a room rose. You can start to take out the flower after the night temperature becomes warm. At first, the rose needs to be kept in the shade so that it adapts, and then it is moved to diffused light.
For the winter, the stems need to be cut so that there are 4 buds on each branch. Pruning can also be done in the spring, before the plant begins to develop. In winter, the flower is watered every three days and sprayed.
Roses are very susceptible to drafts and plant protection with a paper cylinder is a good solution to this problem (the height of the cylinder is about half a flower).
Propagation of roses by seeds
Reproduction of roses is carried out by seeds and vegetatively. Seed propagation is usually used only for wild roses, and not all of them can produce full-fledged seeds.
The material is taken at the stage when the fruit turns red. This usually happens in August or a little earlier.
Then, stratification is carried out in wet sand at a temperature of about 3 ºC. With the onset of spring, the seeds are treated with stimulants for better root formation and sown to a depth of two centimeters, and then covered with humus mulch.
When a pair of true leaves appears in sprouted roses, they are transplanted so that the seedlings are at a distance of 7 cm from each other, and the gap between the rows is 20 cm. In the summer, the area with young roses must be fertilized with mineral fertilizer.
Until next August, you need to take care of the bushes, and then they are taken as a stock.
Rose propagation by cuttings in summer
Usually, the best results are obtained by propagation by cuttings, which can be done in different ways.
For a simple, natural way to root shoots in summer, you need to cut the stems in the evening or early in the morning. Slightly woody shoots or those that are about to bloom or have recently faded are preferred.
You can find out that the stem is ready for breeding by breaking off a thorn on it. If it breaks off easily, then you can use the shoot as a cutting.
The length of the cuttings should be about 14 cm, and each of them should have a pair of leaves and buds without flowers. Extra leaves are plucked.
The incision is treated with a root growth stimulator and placed in water, to which the rose leaf pieces are added.
Cuttings are planted directly into the ground, having previously treated the pits for planting with a solution of potassium permanganate.
The twigs need to be covered with jars that will serve as greenhouses for them. Young cuttings are very sensitive and the daytime temperature should not drop below 25 ºC and the night temperature 19ºC until rooting has passed.
Propagation of roses by cuttings in potatoes
An interesting way is to root cuttings in potatoes. To do this, in the spring you need to dig a shallow trench, about 15 cm and fill it 5 cm with sand.
Twenty-centimeter cuttings are stuck into the potatoes, from which you need to cut out all the eyes, and then they will simply be thrown into your little ditch with sand. The seedlings can be kept under glass jars at first.
It is important to constantly water the cuttings, and once every 5 days, water it with sweetened water (2 tea boats of sugar per glass of water).
How to propagate a rose with cuttings from a bouquet
If you were presented with a bouquet of domestic roses, then they can be used for reproduction. Imported flowers will not work as they are treated with preservatives.
All flowers, thorns, buds are removed from the cuttings, and the leaves are removed from below and shortened from above. The stem itself is cut to 20 cm. Then it is simply placed in distilled water, which is changed until the roots appear.
Further procedures do not differ from those described above for conventional cuttings.
Propagation of roses by cuttings in a package
The finished cuttings are placed in a bag with wet soil, inflated and tied well, and then placed on the windowsill. In about a month, roots should form and cuttings can be planted.
Transplanting cuttings is carried out before winter, if you want to plant cuttings in spring or later, you received the desired cutting and it seems difficult to keep it.
Just dig the shoot into the soil and arrange a dry shelter for it so that the cold does not reach it, and plant the cuttings in the spring.
Reproduction of roses in the Burito way
Burito's method is completely unreliable, since root formation does not occur even in 50% of cases. But sometimes it does happen.
The cuttings should be treated with a root-growth agent and then placed in a damp newspaper in a dark, warm place (about 17 ° C). You will have a chance that after 15 days the cuttings will develop roots, but let's be honest - this chance is scanty.
Rose propagation in the Trannois way
To reproduce with this type, you need to cut off the top of the shoot with a limp flower and a few small leaves. Further, it is observed until the kidneys from below begin to swell. This indicates that the stem is ready for growing.
At this time, the cuttings need to be cut to 20 cm, remove all the leaves except the top two and plant in a well-lit area, several copies at once in one hole. The cuttings must be covered with a large plastic container, which is not removed until the cold weather. Seedlings will sometimes need to be watered and loosened up in the soil next to them.
This method is also quite unreliable, but it is still better than the previous one.
Reproduction of roses by grafts
They need to be grafted onto young rose hips. The dog rose and its varieties are considered the best for this, but others can be used. The vaccine is usually done in the middle of summer.
To do this, remove the lateral stems from the stock and clean the root collar from the soil. A T-shaped incision is made on it in which the cutting is placed. Check the kidney after 20 days. If it is swollen, then everything is fine, but if it turns black, then the grafting failed. Before wintering, grafted roses are spud 5 cm above the grafting level.
In the spring, the earth is raked, and the plant on which the grafting was carried out is cut off a centimeter above the grafting site. When the flower begins to grow, it will need to be pinched over the third leaf.
Reproduction of roses by dividing the bush is possible only for non-grafted species
For such reproduction, it is necessary in the spring, even before the buds begin to bloom, dig up the rose and cut it in such a way that on each division there is a part of the root and a shoot. The places of the cuts are powdered with coal and then parts of the bush are simply planted like ordinary roses.
To propagate a rose by layering, in early spring, you need to make an annular cut on the stem that grows from the root collar, and then bend it into the hole, fix it and sprinkle it with moist soil. Further, the soil will need to be moistened until autumn, when the cuttings take root. It will be possible to separate the cub from the mother next spring.
Diseases and pests
The worst pests for roses are aphids and spider mites ... In the early stages, aphids can be fought by simply cutting off the leaves or crushing the aphids, you can also wash the leaves with soap, but if this does not help, you need to buy an insecticide "for roses and grapes" in a specialized store.
FROM spider mite you can fight with an infusion of wormwood or tobacco, but if the pest has spread too much, it is better to buy a remedy to combat it. This pest affects the rose if it grows in dry conditions and lacks moisture.
Also, the rose can be attacked thrips , cicadas , rose sawfly , but if you take proper care of the plant, they will not appear.
Rose disease
One of the diseases dangerous for the rose is bacterial cancer , which can be recognized by the growths that gradually harden. This disease cannot be cured and the plant will die.
Examine the material before purchasing, and also carry out pest control before planting with a three percent Bordeaux liquid. If you notice growths on the plant, try removing the leaves and treating the cuts with copper sulfate, but there is no guarantee that you will have time to help the flower.
Coniotirium it is a disease that affects the bark of plants. It manifests itself in the form of brown spots that darken over time and "ring" the stem. These shoots must be immediately cut off and burned. Also, if this ailment is found, before winter it is necessary to stop fertilizing the rose with nitrogen, and replace it with potassium fertilizing.
Powdery rose represents white spots. Sick areas should be immediately removed and burned, and the plant should be treated with iron (3%) or copper (2%) vitriol.
Brown spots on the leaves and the fall of the latter indicate black spot ... To prevent the development of the disease, you need to fertilize the rose with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers in the fall, as well as treat the plant and the area where it is grown with Bordeaux liquid (3%).
Also the rose can get sick gray mold , after which the plant is most often burned. But, if the fungus has not entered into force, then you can try to cure it with a Bordeaux solution diluted in water (100 grams per bucket). In this way, a diseased plant will need to be processed 3-4 times every seven days.
Possible difficulties:
- If your rose doesn't bloom then you may have just acquired a weak plant or a variety that rarely blooms. This also happens if the flower lacks light or nutrients. The absence of flowering can be caused by freezing in winter. But the most dangerous reason for the lack of flowering, in which the rose loses its varietal properties, is the wildness of the plant.
- If you notice shoots with small leaves and an abundance of thorns , then immediately cut them off (usually such stems appear from the very bottom of the bush). If you do not fight with them, then over time these shoots capture the entire bush and it runs wild.
- The leaves fall off the roses can, if they are struck by pests or disease, and besides this, the reason is often hidden in the roots of the plant. The root can rot, and there are also cases of damage by bears or May beetle larvae, mice and moles.
- Rose leaves turn yellow , in addition to diseases, they can from an elementary lack of nutrients such as nitrogen, iron and manganese, as well as potassium.
With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves turn yellow alternately. First, this happens with the bottom layer, which falls off after yellowing. Further, such a fate awaits the middle leaves, and then the whole bush. With a lack of potassium, the leaves begin to turn yellow from the edge, and then dry out. With a lack of trace elements, the veins on the leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow. Another cause of yellowness is excess moisture in the soil.
In the first year, early flowering of young plants should not be allowed. Until the beginning of August, the buds are removed from the bushes. Leave 1-2 flowers on each shoot and do not cut them off so that fruits will set in the fall. Such plants ripen better and bloom more abundantly next year.
Throughout the summer, prophylactic treatment against pests is carried out using the available preparations according to the instructions.
Shelter of young bushes for the winter is carried out when freezing temperatures begin. It is recommended to cover the bushes completely using coniferous legs. In the spring, young bushes are opened first, and then older ones.
Caring for roses of previous plantings
Plantings of previous years usually bloom several times during the entire growing season. After each flowering, part of the shoots is cut off, ensuring the next flowering.
The soil is loosened to a depth of 10 cm twice a month, providing oxygen access to the roots. Twice a season, the site itself is dug up to a depth of up to 25 cm. The first time it is done after the opening of the roses, the second - at the end of August.
Watering roses is necessary regular and plentiful, in hot weather, weekly. It is especially important during the growth period and during the budding period. An earthen circle near the bushes is watered, and the next day, loosening is carried out.
Top dressing is carried out regularly, applying organic and mineral fertilizers. They use the same composition as for young plantings, but use humus instead of mullein and add 10 mg of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers.
Pruning roses
Pruning is a very important procedure in the life of roses. It stimulates the growth of young shoots, renews the plant, prevents old weak shoots from absorbing nutrients, and allows the formation of a beautiful and healthy bush. Timely and correctly cut, roses can bloom up to 25 years or more.
At different stages of the development of the bushes, pruning is carried out weak, medium and strong. Weak accelerates flowering, with it only the tip of the shoot is removed. With an average 5-7 buds are left, with a strong one - 2-3. To carry out pruning, you need a good pruner, which is used to cut at an acute angle 1 cm above the eye.
Primary pruning is done in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. All dead shoots are removed and burned. The next, more thorough, is done after opening the bushes and awakening the kidneys.
In polyanthus roses, pruning is done immediately strong, this stimulates the continuous flowering of these varieties. In remontant roses every year, a third of the shoots are cut strongly, and two-thirds are poorly cut. In climbing plants, damaged shoots and part of last year's ones that have faded are removed. Young, not blooming, cannot be cut off, they will bloom next year.
After flowering on roses, remove all wilted and starting to fade flowers, cutting them off with part of the shoot up to the second eye. Summer pruning excludes fruit formation, and new buds grow rapidly and give the next wave of flowering.
The last pruning is carried out in the second half of August, leaving several buds on each bush. This helps the plant better prepare for winter.
Simultaneously with pruning, it is necessary to regularly remove wild growth, which weakens the plant and in the future can cause the death of the cultivated part of the bush. Wild shoots are removed at the very base.
Reproduction of roses
There is a vegetative method of reproduction, and seed. Almost all garden varieties are propagated vegetatively, and wild species and hybrids are propagated by seeds.
After budding, a more powerful growth of bushes, high frost resistance, and drought resistance are observed. However, the process is laborious, time-consuming and less suitable for novice florists. Standard seedlings can only be obtained in the third year.
Cutting requires less labor, flowering is obtained already in the second year, there is no need to grow a stock. However, when propagated by cuttings, roses are more sensitive to adverse conditions.
Budding can be carried out from late April to mid-September. The area where the rootstock grows (most often the rosehip) is watered abundantly a week before the work, so that the bark begins to peel off easily at the rootstock. Then the cuttings for the stock are cut out from the middle part of the faded shoots of roses, the leaves are removed from them, leaving the petioles.
BTW!
Cuttings can be prepared 1-2 days before budding and kept in a damp and cool place. Eyes from such cuttings take root better. For spring budding, cuttings are most often harvested in autumn and stored in wet sand at a temperature of + 1 ... 2 ° C.
The peephole for budding is cut off with a bark shield up to 1.5 cm long. The petiole is preserved, since it is more convenient to insert the peephole with it under the bark.
Before budding, at the rootstocks, open the root collar near the base of the bush, rub the bark, make a T-shaped incision on the root collar and insert a cultural eye into it. Then the place of budding is tightly tied. The stock is covered with earth and the peephole and stock are waiting for 2 weeks.
In the spring of next year, the aerial part of the rootstock 1 cm above the budding site is cut off in order to direct the nutrients to the developing eye. Further care is the same as for annual plants.
Cuttings are usually carried out after the first flowering, within a month, starting from the second decade of July. Only faded and lignified shoots are taken for cuttings. Cuttings are cut from the middle of the annual shoot, keeping at least 2 eyes per cutting. The lower cut is made 1 cm below the kidney, and the upper one is made above the kidney. The cuttings are immediately planted in the ground under the shelter.
The soil in the lower part consists of horse manure, then there is a layer of sod land, and in the upper part there is river sand. The cuttings are planted at an angle of 60 °, deepening by a third. Distance in rows - 5-6 cm. Between rows - 7-8 cm. Temperature for rooting is required at least + 24 ° С, humidity - up to 90%. After a day, the cuttings are opened and sprayed with water. Rooting usually occurs after 3 weeks. Before freezing, cuttings with young leaves are covered with dry foliage with a layer of up to 30 cm, and a layer of spruce branches. In the spring, they are planted in a permanent place.
Stamp roses
These are very spectacular plants in the form of small trees covered with beautiful flowers. Rosehip varieties such as canina and rugosa are used as a stock for standard roses. Fruits, which ripen at the end of August, are harvested when the shell begins to redden. Such fruits germinate faster. Before sowing, rosehip seeds are mixed with pitch and kept wet for 2 weeks. In September, they are sown in the ground, watered and mulched with peat.
In dry autumn, watering is carried out 2-3 times with intervals of 5-6 days. Seedlings will appear in May next year .. In the second decade of June, they are dived according to the scheme 40 × 80 cm. In summer, fertilizing with liquid organic fertilizer is carried out, 2-3 times during the growing season. In autumn, all shoots are cut off at the base, leaving 1-2 of the strongest ones. The next growing season, the stem itself is grown, regularly removing the root shoots and all awakened buds on the lower part of the left shoots.
A well-developed root system allows the boles to grow up to 1.5 m by July. During this period, budding begins, using 2-3 eyes for inoculation. They are grafted on both sides of the shoot, at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Above the grafted eyes, 1-2 shortened lateral shoots are left, the rest are removed. If there are eyes and shoots below the budding site, they must also be removed; wrap the budding site with plastic wrap. The bandage is removed after 2 weeks, when the eyes take root. Shoots or buds above the budding site are removed. For grafting, varieties of cultivated roses with large fragrant flowers are used.
Winter Shelter Roses
In the second half of August, watering, loosening and pruning are stopped. They begin to cover roses when the temperature drops to + 3 ° C. Spruce branches, a layer of soil and wooden shields are considered a traditional and reliable shelter.
A combined shelter - with needles and earth, is considered the most reliable. The earth does not stick to the shoots, an air space is formed between the plant and the soil layer, which makes it possible to better preserve the bush.
BTW!
Young plants, both remontant and climbing, are completely covered in order to preserve the ground shoots as much as possible.
Curly roses are removed from the supports, twisted into rings, laid on coniferous branches and covered with spruce branches. Later they are sprinkled with a layer of earth and snow. On standard roses, the leaves are removed in front of the shelter, all unripe and damaged shoots are cut off, then carefully bent at an angle of up to 50 ° and fixed for 4-5 days. Then a pile of earth is poured, a crown is laid on it and covered with spruce branches.
With the onset of spring, the winter shelter is removed, doing it in stages. First - to enhance the access of air, and then the earth, which the bushes are covered with, is completely removed. It is recommended to leave the coniferous spruce branches for 8-10 days, and if the spring is early and hot, then before the onset of cloudy weather. It is better to open roses in the evening.
- I prepare the soil fertile, light, consisting of compost, rotted manure, black peat and garden soil - in equal shares. I mix everything in the landing pit. I fill the seedling with the same mixture.
- I immediately shade the planted roses (if the weather is sunny), in the spring too.
- After planting, I mulch the soil so that it is always moist at the roots. This is especially true for summer residents who rarely come to their site.
- After a couple of weeks, roses can be sprayed with a bio-cocktail (a mix of biological products), solutions of "Zircon", HB-101 (according to the instructions). But you need to use one thing, not all at once. Repeat the procedure after two weeks.
- If it did not work out well to prepare the soil, in the next season the plant will need to be fed regularly. To do this, you can use "Fertika" with humate content, "Zircon", "Plant-fol" (NPK \u003d 20:20:20, but it is desirable to reduce the dose). There is no need to feed roses from the second half of July with nitrogen fertilizers.
- I remove all or part of the buds formed by the first years in June. For example, if a bush is up to 25 cm high, it is better to cut them off at the pea stage - pinch them over the first leaf. If the rose is taller than 25 cm, you can leave two or three ovaries and let it bloom. If the rose grows buds in July, I cut them to the first leaf.
ON A NOTE
It happens, when I arrive at the dacha, I find that the baby has already formed 10 buds. I cut off half (those that have not yet burst). The rest can be cut off later, during flowering, - above the first or second leaf. Or remove the entire flowering brush (if the rose is of the spray flowering type) above the first leaf. After pruning, the rose will start up shoots from grafting, which will form a beautiful bush for the first year and later life.
- After pruning, it is necessary to feed the bush with Plantofol fertilizer, reducing the recommended dose by half, or Fertika (according to the instructions), so that the rose can grow both roots and stems, and also lay buds by August (in the middle lane). New flowering is essential for good maturation of the stems before wintering.
- In August, I do not prune the rose, as I do at the end of June-July, I only remove the faded "heads" (sometimes I leave them if the plant does not grow seeds, like a dog rose). Even if the rose faded early, I do not advise you to cut off the faded brushes. In this case, the stems ripen better.
- In the second half of summer, I feed the rose with potassium sulfate, also with a half dose, since the shoots are thin and the root system is still weak. Better to do it again in September.
Before sheltering for the winter on young roses, I cut off only the leaves, tie the stems with twine and bend them down.