Correct installation of heating radiators in a private house. How to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator in an apartment. Stages of installing a heating battery

The need for a competent installation of heating radiators arises both when replacing a single device and when installing the entire system. It is the last option that is reasonable to consider in detail and in detail.

The heating season in our country lasts at least six months, so a lot depends on the heat circulation system: not only the comfort of living quarters, but also human health, the cost of heating and the relevance of its repair. Consider the main schemes for supplying heat to apartments and residential buildings:

Cast iron radiators. Massive classic appliances, "guests from the past". They are used on a leftover basis and are no longer produced by modern industry. They are characterized by low heat transfer and appearance, which has to be decorated - curtains, slats, etc. Which further reduces the circulation of warm air in the room;
Sectional type aluminum radiators. Lightweight, reliable and efficient devices for the heating system. Approximately 50% of the energy of the coolant falls on convection into the room (for cast-iron counterparts, this figure barely reaches 25%). Equipped with convenient pressure / flow regulators and attractive design;
Steel sectional radiators are very similar in appearance to aluminum ones - but at the same time they are much more massive and somewhat more expensive in terms of price. The main advantage of the steel heater circuit is its high resistance to corrosion. If the water in the heating system is hard, contains acidic or alkaline impurities, it is wise to choose such batteries. Installation of steel heating radiators should take into account their significant weight;
Bimetallic radiators - have the best performance characteristics and the highest cost (about 20% higher than aluminum sections) Withstand high pressure in the system, operate in the range from 20 to 40 atmospheres. All other above-described varieties can function at a water pressure in the system of 15-25 atmospheres.

The standard service life of bimetallic radiators is up to 25 years, steel and aluminum - at least 20 years. In reality, they can last up to half a century. Of course, under the obvious condition - if the system is selected and connected correctly.

When replacing a single heater (for example, cast iron sections are leaking), it is important to pay attention to the center distance, hole diameter and thread pitch. It is best to measure these parameters with a tape measure and a caliper. There are many types of heating devices on the market and in stores, their design features differ from each other. You can purchase a device that looks like a failed battery - but it will not work when installed.

When the entire system is changed, or the heating is installed again (for example, in a new house or apartment), a correctly drawn up project is important:

As pipes - direct and reverse - it is best to choose plastic with a metal layer, used for hot water supply. In the specifications, the permissible water temperature must exceed the temperature in the system by at least 10 ˚C;
The best places to install the selected heating radiators are under windows or on one side of long blank walls. This ensures the best circulation of warm air in the apartment / house;
The sectional arrangement of the batteries allows you to vary their length, and therefore the power of the heating system. Correct connection provides for the presence of 6 (minimum) to 15 (maximum) sections for one radiator;
The average standard for 1 square meter of the heated room is 0.7–1.1 sections of aluminum, steel or bimetal. Installation is recommended in rooms with an area over 15–20 m 2;
In addition to the main pipes and the batteries themselves, you should stock up on the required number of connecting fittings, corners, brackets and other accessories. To drill holes in ceilings and walls, you will need a hammer drill with a long drill and a special "iron" for welding PVC pipes.

Of course, all batteries to be installed must be of the same company (and preferably from the same batch). Similar requirements apply to the piping system. How to install a heating radiator and connect it after installation, we will consider in more detail.

The site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the required number of sections.

Installation and connection of radiators - step by step instructions

The installation of new heating radiators should be broken down into several stages:

How to install and connect heating radiators with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Batteries come first!

When installing radiators on a wall, the first thing to do is to install the batteries. This is done on two (with more than 10 sections - three) brackets, previously driven into the wall. Water inlet and outlet pipes are protected with special plugs. It is important to accurately align each radiator both horizontally and against the wall. This will not only give the entire system an attractive design, but will also increase the service life of the heating circuit.

The brackets must be able to withstand heavy loads. They are buried into the wall by at least 10 cm. The backlash and vibration of the brackets should be minimal (a few millimeters 20 cm from the wall).

Step 2: Well, pipes - only later

In some new homes, piping systems are provided with holes in the floor slabs. If these holes are not there, they are punched with a puncher, with a double margin of diameter. For example, for two pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, a common hole of at least 50 mm is punched. Pipe cutting is performed with a grinder, with a small amount of work - with a hacksaw.

The arrangement of pipeline schemes strictly vertically is a condition for their long-term and trouble-free service. First, the entire riser is welded with an "iron", then it is attached to the wall with special clamps. We use a level and a perforator (as with the heating radiators themselves). Further, the branches are made to the batteries themselves.

The construction of a new house or the restoration of an old building involves the modernization of the heating system, including all types of work. Among them - drawing up a project, selecting a diagram for connecting radiators, arranging pipelines, choosing a type of batteries. The key point in ensuring high-quality heating of the home is the installation of heating radiators. To master the installation technology, it is worth reading the operating manual, studying the detailed step-by-step instructions and using the experience of practitioners in the work.

Choosing the option of connecting devices to pipes, they strive to ensure the greatest heating efficiency. Connection is most often carried out in three ways.

1. Side - the most common, allows you to achieve the greatest heat transfer, optimal for small radiators. The system looks like this: in the upper part, the battery is connected to the inlet pipe, and in the lower (on the same side) - to the outlet. If the coolant is supplied from below, it loses power. The work can be easily performed even by a non-specialist; this method does not require a lot of materials.

2. Lower. The inlet and outlet pipes are located at the bottom and are connected to a main pipe hidden under the floor or skirting board. The installation scheme with the bottom connection has a significant disadvantage: a decrease in thermal efficiency by 5-15% compared to the side version. However, long radiators with lower connections heat up better than those with side connections. And one more undesirable moment: if a pipe breaks through, you have to remove the floor covering, the downstream apartment may suffer from a leak.

3. Diagonal. Water enters through the upper pipe on one side and exits through the lower pipe on the opposite side. The best place for a diagonal connection is a private house with autonomous heating, in which the coolant circulates at a low speed.

If the devices have more than 12 sections, it is recommended to connect them diagonally (including if the place of installation is an apartment). In systems with side connection, the coolant, even under high pressure, cannot pass through the multi-section radiator, maintaining the temperature.

Varieties

Before the technology for installing heating devices is described, it is worth studying their features. There are preferred connection options for each type.

Cast iron.

Among their advantages is the material's resistance to wear, corrosion, high temperatures and water pressure. A cast-iron battery heats up for a long time and stays hot just as long. The downside is the need for annual maintenance - painting and flushing. The cast iron unit is built into the heating system in different ways.

Steel.

They are distinguished by an increased heat transfer coefficient, an original design, and are not clogged with suspensions from the coolant. Disadvantages: susceptibility to corrosion (if made from carbon steel) or high cost (from stainless steel). The steel panel battery is connected by the side method, there are lower options. If the device is sectional, side mounting is preferable.

Aluminum.

They have the highest heat dissipation and attract with modern design. Installation of aluminum radiators is recommended for autonomous heating in a small private house. In this case, it is necessary to control the composition of water and pressure in the system. Most often, a diagonal connection is used: due to it, the aluminum unit works more efficiently. Bottom connection models are also available.

Bimetallic.

They successfully combine the strength of cast iron and the thermal efficiency of aluminum, and are resistant to corrosion and pressure drops. Installation of bimetallic radiators is possible both in the house and in the apartment. The wide range includes panel and tubular products. You can choose units of various designs: standard, low, vertically located. Almost every model is designed to be connected in different ways. The bimetallic radiator has 4 connecting points: two at the bottom and two at the top.

Having decided on the type of radiator, a simple calculation of the number of heating devices is performed separately for each room. On average, 10 m2 of floor space (no more than 3 m high) requires 1 kW of thermal energy. By dividing the total amount of energy by the power of the radiator, their number is determined. The power information is contained in the product manual.

List of requirements

The rules and regulations in force in Russia for strapping require strict adherence to a number of technical and construction regulations.

1. Installation is carried out in areas of the room with maximum heat loss. This is usually the gap between the windows and the floor.

2. The battery must be in a specific position. It is removed at least 100 mm from the window sill, 30 mm from the wall and 60 mm from the floor. The indicated distances take into account the specificity of the distribution of heated air.

3. The connection of radiators to the general network is carried out according to a certain scheme, depending on the type of devices and the characteristics of the heating system.

4. Reliability of fastening to the wall is ensured by installing radiators on three brackets. Their arrangement is as follows: one fastener is located at the bottom and two at the top. The brackets are mounted using dowels and mortar.

5. In the upper part of each section, a valve is connected to bleed air from the system. It can be manual or automatic.

6. After installation is complete, open the stopcocks. This is done gradually, without jerking, in order to prevent water hammer.

Step-by-step instruction

The installation of each type of radiator has its own characteristics, but you should adhere to a few general recommendations. In order for the installation on its own to go through without errors, for a start, the manual that each unit has is carefully studied. When buying consumables, fittings and components, their quality is checked. In the process of connecting radiators, all connections are made absolutely tight.

Before starting do-it-yourself installation, they prepare a universal and special tool:

impact drill;
screwdriver;
building level;
pliers;
drills with pobeditovy soldering;
pencil, tape measure;
torque wrench for tightening the pipes.

The technology for installing heating batteries is divided into several stages.

1. The piping scheme is being designed. It is better to entrust this procedure to a heating engineer. He draws up a list of purchased products, without which it is impossible to mount a radiator with your own hands.

2. The choice of materials. If the apartment has centralized heating, the piping of the heating radiators is done using steel pipes and shut-off valves - this will prevent fittings from breaking off at high pressure in the system. In a private house, you can buy metal-plastic materials.

If the scheme developed by the designer requires that a ball valve with an American be used during installation, you should know: only a specialist can handle its tight connection. When installing the batteries with your own hands, they put a conventional radiator valve.

3. Overlapping. If one new battery is installed, the water is cut off in front of and behind it. When all the heating batteries are replaced, the system is completely shut off - regardless of whether it is a private house or an apartment. The water is drained, the residues are pumped out with a pump.

4. Preparing the wall. It is necessary to level it with plaster and putty. Before the installation of the fasteners begins, marking, punching of holes with a puncher, installation of dowels is carried out.

5. Mountings. The wall-mounted device is suspended on brackets. At the same time, light wall partitions are drilled through, performing the installation of fasteners from the other side. The floor battery is placed on a special stand.

6. Preparation of heating radiators. The cast-iron battery is pre-disassembled, after which the nipples are tightened. The aluminum or bimetallic unit is not removed from the packaging until the installation work is complete.

7. Assembly. The devices are equipped with taps with detachable connections, a Mayevsky valve for bleeding air, radiator plugs and plugs, thermostats. In order for the battery to be securely fastened to all elements, the joints are sealed with tow.

It should be noted that a bimetallic radiator is never assembled using sandpaper and a file, in order to avoid leaks.

8. Installation of radiators on the brackets. When the battery is suspended, its vertical and horizontal position is controlled using a building level. If at the end of the season it is planned to drain the water from the system, the radiator is placed with a slight deviation from the horizontal towards the pipe. This will completely remove the water to keep the battery dry.

9. Connection. Unscrew the plugs from the batteries. If the design is one-pipe, a pre-prepared bypass is connected - so that, if necessary, the device can be cut off. With a two-pipe heating system, the battery is connected to the pipe using a squeegee, to which a valve is screwed. The bonding points are again sealed with tow.

10. Hydrotesting. The technology provides for checking the density of joints and their performance at the design working pressure and during water hammer. The second name of the test operation is crimping heating batteries. It is quite difficult to do it yourself - it is better to invite a plumber with special equipment.

Turnkey cost

In order to heat a house or apartment as efficiently as possible, with a minimum probability of failures and breakdowns, it makes sense to entrust the work to experienced professionals. It consists of several stages:

departure for preliminary assessment;
project development;
choice of equipment;
installation of radiators, if necessary - their testing, start-up.

The price of work for each customer is determined individually, it depends on the complexity of the project, the number of devices and their design features. In order to pre-calculate how much it will cost to install a heating system, you need to find out what the price is for one point - it denotes the complex cost of installation services. On average, this figure in Moscow is 2500 rubles. The total turnkey cost differs significantly from different contractors. To get the expected result, you should draw up a contract with the company, constantly monitor the process and quality.

Most often, you have to deal with the replacement of heating radiators during a major overhaul. They are usually changed after installing windows and sills.

Radiators create warmth and comfortable stay in the house, which means that their installation must be competent and durable.

It is very important to figure out how to install a heating radiator correctly.

There are several ways to mount radiators. Most often they are mounted under windows, and sometimes on the walls and in the hallway at the entrance. To install the batteries, brackets or stands are used that are fixed to the wall surface.

From two (or one) sides and from below, pipes are brought to the battery. If the piping is provided on one side, then you need to clearly calculate the number of sections, since half of the radiator may remain cold. Experts recommend not installing more than 12 sections if the water circulation is natural. With artificial circulation, the number of sections can be increased to 24.

How to install a radiator?

If you want to install a large number of sections, then you need to worry about how to bring the pipes to the heating devices.

When calculating the number of sections and installing a radiator, you need to take into account the throughput of the pipes. It is determined by the inner diameter of the product and the roughness factor.

In order to properly install a heating system that will provide maximum heat output, you need to adhere to several rules when making calculations:

to make it convenient to clean under the battery, the distance from the floor to the bottom of the battery should be about 10 cm;
there should be a gap of up to 5 cm between the wall and the radiator. If the distance is less, heating will begin not on the room, but on the walls;
from the radiator to the window sill should be 10 cm.

In order to be able to adjust the heat output of the heating battery automatically or manually, it is necessary to take care of the installation of thermostatic valves in advance. In the event of a leak or other emergency, it will be possible to autonomously turn off the heating system. Automatic regulation of the heating system is possible due to the installation of thermostatic valves directly on the valve.

If the installation of valves is envisaged for a heating system with one pipe, then in advance it is necessary to make sure that the two pipes have jumpers between them. If they are not present, installation of thermal heads is not permissible.

In addition to the listed elements, the heating radiator must be equipped with a Mayevsky crane. The valve serves to remove air from the batteries and from the entire heating system. This procedure is carried out at the beginning of the heating season and then periodically during the operation of devices for heating the room.

Stages of installing a heating battery

On the surface of the wall, it is necessary to apply markings for future brackets, and then fix them.
Put the Mayevsky valve on the radiator together with the control valves (if necessary) and the plug.
Using a level, it is necessary to fix the radiator on the brackets.
Connect the radiators to the pipes of the heating system.

To make sure that the battery works smoothly, you need to make the first start. If you do not have the required plumbing skills, then. in order to properly install the radiators, it is better to use the help of specialists. If you install the heating system incorrectly, a pipe rupture can occur with all the unpleasant consequences.

To ensure the smooth functioning of the thermal valves and to increase the heat output, it is better not to put various decorative grilles on the radiator. It is also better to place furniture away from radiators.

When choosing radiators, you need to remember the maximum temperature of the heat carrier in the centralized heating system. Usually it is 65-105 degrees. In apartment buildings, the pressure level is usually 10 atm.

How are bimetallic radiators installed?

Since hydraulic shocks appear on the heating system at the beginning of the heating period, when choosing batteries, it is worth giving preference to bimetallic batteries or those in which the operating pressure is more than 16 atm.

Steel panel batteries are best installed in private homes. You should be aware that the declared power of the radiators can be much higher than it actually is.

Currently, bimetallic radiators are considered one of the most efficient batteries. They have increased heat dissipation. Their modern design will suit almost any décor.

The following tools and materials are required to install the batteries

water tanks;
torque wrenches;
puncher;
building level;
pencil;
roulette.

Stages of installing bimetallic batteries

Norms and rules for installing a heating device: distances from the floor, walls, windowsill.

First of all, it is necessary to find out the diameter of the supply pipes. After that, a mounting kit of the correct size must be ordered. The delivery set of the bimetallic radiator includes:

air vent valve;
adapter for the Mayevsky valve;
two adapters;
plug;
brackets;
gaskets for the plug and adapter.

It is necessary to prepare containers in advance, cut off the water and drain its residues from the heating system. After that, the old radiator is dismantled by untwisting the threaded connections of the outlet and inlet pipes.

The places for the installation of the brackets are marked. When working, it is recommended to attach the radiators to the piping. With the help of a building level, horizontality is checked. Attachments are attached to the installation site and the fastening holes are marked with a pencil.

Holes of the required diameter are drilled in the designated places using a perforator. If the number of sections is no more than 8, then three brackets will be enough. If the sections are from 8 to 12, then it is necessary to install 4 fasteners.

The radiator is installed on the prepared brackets in such a way that all horizontal collectors are on the hooks. One of the features of the installation of such radiators is that the entire set must be in the package until it is installed.

A Mayevsky valve, which is included in the delivery set, should be installed on each radiator. Use a torque wrench to tighten the valve. After that, the thermostatic and shut-off valves are installed.

Next, the bimetallic radiator is connected to the heat pipes of the heating system. It is not recommended to clean the surfaces to be connected with a file or emery paper: this will lead to leaks.

The technology for installing heating batteries is quite simple. After studying the sequence of work and preparing the necessary tools and materials, the installation can be done independently.

Content

When arranging or reconstructing a heating system, replacement or installation of batteries is often required. Installation of heating radiators can be carried out on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists, but only strictly observing the requirements of SNiP. When performing work, both theoretical knowledge and practical experience will be required, because even the slightest mistake can lead to problems during the operation of the heating system.

Installing the radiator battery

Required theory

Today, two types of heating systems are most widely used:

one-pipe;
two-pipe.

A feature of one-pipe systems should be called the supply of the coolant to the house from top to bottom. This scheme is used in most typical apartment buildings. The downside of the system is the impossibility of controlling the temperature regime in the dwelling without installing additional equipment. With this method of heating, the water in the radiators on the upper floors will be significantly warmer than on those below.

Heating system installation

With two-pipe heating, the heated coolant is supplied through one pipe, and the water that has given up its heat circulates through the second (return). This heating system is used in cottages and private houses. The advantage of two-pipe systems is the relative constancy of the temperature of the batteries and the ability to regulate the heating mode.

Radiator installation diagrams

Differences in installation schemes lie in the way they are connected to a private or centralized network.

The most common patterns are as follows:

Lateral connection. Allows you to achieve the highest heat transfer.
The supply pipe connects to the upper branch pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one. When connected in reverse (water supply from the bottom), the system power is reduced.
The connection is diagonal. Optimal for batteries of considerable length, characterized by minimal heat loss.
In this case, a uniform heating of the radiators occurs. The supply pipe is connected to one side of the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe - from the reverse side of the lower branch pipe.
The bottom connection ("Leningrad") is used for hidden pipe laying.

Connection diagram options

Installation of heating devices according to this scheme, characterized by significant heat loss, is used when laying heating pipes in the lower floor area.

What is needed for installation

To fix the heating devices, you will need to purchase various materials and additional devices. Their set is almost identical, but for cast-iron batteries, for example, larger diameter plugs will be required, the installation of an air vent instead of a Mayevsky crane.

The installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries is exactly the same.

It should be taken into account when choosing a radiator that many manufacturers give a guarantee for devices only when installed by organizations that have an appropriate license.

Required tools and materials

When installing radiators with your own hands, you will definitely need to use brackets or holders. Their number is determined depending on the size of the radiators:

if you plan to put the device on no more than eight sections or up to 1.2 m in length, two points will be enough for reliable fastening - above and below;
every subsequent 5–6 sections or 50 cm of battery length requires the addition of one more pair of fasteners.

Also, to install batteries, you need to purchase:

linen roll or fum tape;
drill with a set of drills;
level;
dowels;
elements for connecting fittings and pipes.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

The Mayevsky crane is a device that is used on an unoccupied upper outlet. Serves to remove accumulated air. Such a device must be installed on every heating device when installing aluminum or bimetallic batteries. The section of the Mayevsky crane is much smaller than the section of the collector, therefore the connection is carried out through the adapter supplied in the kit.

Mayevsky crane

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, automatic air vents, made in nickel-plated or brass versions, can also be installed on the battery. Instruments in a white enamelled case are not available for standard batteries.

Plug

The radiator has four outputs when connected to the side. Two of them are for supply and return, the third is occupied by a Mayevsky crane or an air vent, and the fourth must be closed with a plug. They are available in a variety of materials to suit any type of battery.

Shut-off and control valves

To supply and connect the battery correctly, you will also need a pair of shut-off or control valves installed at the inlet and outlet of each battery. Ordinary ball valves are required to quickly disconnect the device from the network during dismantling. At the same time, the system will continue to work.

The advantage of ball valves is their low cost, the disadvantage is the impossibility of regulating heat transfer.

Ball Valves

The same functions, but with the ability to regulate the intensity of the coolant flow, can be performed by regulating shut-off valves. Their cost differs upwards, but, at the same time, their aesthetic characteristics are higher. They can be angular or straight.

Also, on the supply pipe behind the ball valve, you can place a thermostat - a small device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the radiator. However, if the battery does not heat well, thermostats cannot be installed, since they will reduce the already low flow. Heat transfer can be controlled by turning the knob to the required division (mechanical devices) or by pre-programming the operating mode of the radiator (electronic thermostats).

Installation rules and order

As a rule, a heater is installed under the window, since the rising heated air cuts off the cold coming from the opening. To exclude fogging of glass, the width of the radiator should be chosen at 70–75% of the window width.

Basic installation rules

The following rules for installing heating radiators to indentations are recommended by SNiP:

The heating radiator is installed exactly in the middle of the window opening. Before installation, the width is divided into two, then the distances to the points of the location of the fasteners are laid on the right and left sides.
The radiator should recede from the floor level to a height of 8-14 cm. A smaller interval will lead to difficulties in cleaning, and a larger one will entail the formation of zones of unheated air.
The radiators should be hung from the window sill at a distance of 10–12 cm. If you place the device closer, convection will worsen and heat transfer will decrease.
The distance from the wall to the radiator should be about 3-5 cm, it is this size of the gap that is able to ensure unhindered heat distribution and normal convection. If they are too close to walls, dust will accumulate on the back of the batteries and may be difficult to remove.

Taking into account the requirements of SNiP, it is possible to determine the optimal length of the battery and select the model corresponding to specific conditions.

Distance from battery to windowsill and floor

The above rules are the same for all types of radiators. Individual manufacturers set their own standards, which must be followed. Therefore, before buying, you need to study the installation requirements, make sure that they can be met in specific conditions.

Work order

Installing a heating radiator with your own hands requires careful attention to each stage of work, taking into account any detail. For hanging sections, experts recommend using three attachment points: two upper and one lower.

Any sectional battery is hung on the holders through the upper manifold. Thus, the upper attachment bears the main load, and the lower support serves as a guiding and fixing element.

Features of work

The process of installing heating batteries is carried out in several stages.:

Marking and installation of holders.
Battery mounting of accessories.
Modern heating systems require the mandatory installation of an automatic or manual air vent. The device is screwed into the adapter and placed on the upper manifold opposite the connection point of the supply pipe.
Blanking plugs must be installed on unoccupied manifolds.
If the diameters of the supply and return pipes differ with the cross-section of the collectors, the adapters supplied in the standard kit should be installed.
Installation of regulating and locking devices.
Regardless of the accepted connection scheme, in any systems at the places of input and output of batteries, shut-off valves are mounted in the form of full-bore ball valves, which allow dismantling the battery without stopping the system in the event of repair work or maintenance. The only condition is the presence of a bypass when installing the battery in apartments with a vertical type of wiring.
According to the recommendations of experts, the installation of an automatic or manual thermostat is required as control devices. The norms for the installation of heating radiators do not classify these devices as mandatory, they are required to maintain a comfortable temperature for the owners in the room.
Hanging on brackets.
Radiators are supplied in a protective film. Before installing the heating radiator, you should not free the surface from the film - it will protect it from dirt and scratches, since the battery is usually installed at the beginning of repair work. If the radiator is installed instead of the old one, the film can be removed immediately after hanging.
Connecting the supply pipe and return.
The connection depends on the circuit. The type of connection (crimp, threaded, welded or press-fit) is selected based on the pipes and fittings used.
Pressure testing of the system or radiator.

When filling the system with a coolant on its own, the taps should be opened a little. Rapid opening of the taps will lead to a water hammer that can damage the battery and destroy the fittings.

Subtleties of attaching to the wall

Each battery manufacturer has its own instructions, which outline the requirements and installation tips. But one requirement is the same: the radiator should be mounted on a pre-aligned and cleaned wall.

Wall mount

Correct fastening of the brackets affects the efficiency of the heating system. Too much slope or bias in either direction can lead to incomplete heating of the battery, to eliminate which you will have to outweigh the device. Therefore, when preparing the surface and performing the marking, the vertical and horizontal arrangement should be strictly observed. The battery must be hung exactly in relation to all planes.

It is allowed to make a rise of 1 cm from the side of the air vent installation, which will entail the accumulation of air in this area and facilitate its removal. Reverse slope is not allowed.

When installing bimetallic radiators and other types of batteries with a small mass, hanging should be carried out on a pair of hooks located on top. If the length of the device is small, they should be placed between the last two sections. The location of the third bracket must be chosen in the middle from the bottom. The hooks can be sealed with mortar after installation.

Hooks for fastening aluminum and bimetallic sections

When placing the brackets on their own, holes are drilled at the designated points, plugs made of wood or dowels are placed. The holders are fastened with self-tapping screws with a length of 35 mm and a diameter of at least 6 mm. Such requirements are standard, the norm for a specific battery model is indicated in the technical passport.

Panel radiators are installed a little differently. The set for such devices is supplied with special fasteners, the number of which depends on the size of the device.

There are special brackets to hang the heating radiator on its back surface. To install the fasteners, you need to know the distance from the center of the battery to the brackets and transfer it in the form of marks to the wall. Further, applying fasteners, holes for dowels are outlined. The steps are simple: drilling, installing dowels, fixing the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

The considered rules for self-installation allow you to connect batteries in the conditions of autonomous and centralized heating systems.

Before replacing or installing batteries, it should be borne in mind that work must be carried out after obtaining permission from the operating or management company - the heating system is considered common property. A significant change in the characteristics of the network leads to an imbalance in the system.

Bypass installation

The installation of heating batteries in an apartment has one more feature. Vertical single-pipe wiring requires the installation of a bypass - a special jumper between the supply pipe and the return. In combination with ball valves, the bypass allows you to turn off the battery in an emergency or other urgent need. At the same time, the system continues to function, since the heated water passes through the bypass.

A bypass is also required when installing a battery with a thermostat.

Conclusion on the topic

The process of installing heating batteries, if you follow the instructions in the article, should not raise additional questions. With proper preparation, adherence to the sequence of work and a responsible attitude, the system will effectively serve for several decades.

Installation of heating batteries

Radiator types

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but a significant difference lies in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

bimetallic,
steel,
cast iron,
aluminum.

Aluminum are distinguished by good heat transfer and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is the susceptibility to changes in water pressure in the system and its chemical composition.

Cast iron ones are devoid of these disadvantages, however, their large weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they have a long service life (about 50 years).

The other two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They are relatively lightweight and have good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if you have your own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be most convenient for installation.

Site selection and preparation for installation

To install heating batteries, they usually involve craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies, but this operation can be done by hand. When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and floor, its heat transfer depends on it.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its dimensions.

It is equally important to maintain the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. In this case, the gap between the top point of the battery and the lower edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

If the radiator is installed in your own home, then it should be borne in mind that preparatory work should precede it:

water shutoff;
drainage of water from the dismantled parts of the heating system;
pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
dismantling of a replaceable radiator.

Radiator connection diagrams

Installing radiators with your own hands requires a properly selected wiring diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet holes for the coolant in it. In total, there are three schemes for connecting radiators:

cross (heat loss 2%);
lower (12-13%);
one-pipe (19-20% losses), also called "Leningrad".

The choice of connection scheme depends on the type of heating: one-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of such a scheme is that the incoming and cooled heat carrier move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled heat carrier moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the most popular is the lower radiator connection diagram - it is distinguished by the relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connection and installation of radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can minimize them by following the instructions and guidance provided by our specialists.

Aluminum radiators

The installation of aluminum heating batteries requires assembling the sections together by screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then installing the Mayevsky valve and thermostatic valves. An aluminum radiator is installed on special brackets pre-mounted on the wall.

Cast iron radiators

In principle, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall must be taken into account. This is especially true for multi-section cast iron radiators, their weight can exceed 100 kg.

In wooden or dilapidated houses with fragile walls, it is more expedient to install cast iron ones not on brackets, but on special mounting legs, they can be sold separately or together with a battery. It is also desirable to use additional supports.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an inclination of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make the slope in such a way that there is an accumulation of air at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the connection of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.

The bimetallic radiator, despite the rather high price, is in great demand. Such popularity of batteries of this type is due to their high strength and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. The installation is recommended to be carried out in a protective factory film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting is done with brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be fixed both on a solid concrete wall and on a plasterboard structure. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall using dowels and cement mortar, and in the second, by means of double-sided fixing fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is imperative to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) to release air. It should be located at the top of the bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the complete set, or its installation is provided in the design.

When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, since it allows the air accumulated in the battery to be removed without human intervention, thereby extending the life of the device.

Outcome

Regardless of the type of radiator, do-it-yourself installation should take place in strict accordance with the attached instructions. Having drawn up a clear action plan, calculating the installation site and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in drawing up a plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.