Correct grouting of tiles. Tile grout in the bathroom. What are seams and why should they be rubbed

Hello dear readers!

I dedicate today's post, in my opinion, to an absolutely wonderful occupation - grouting tiles! And why are you laughing, this monotonous monotonous work has a relaxing, calming and, I would say, a relaxing effect on a person. Anyway, on me.

I agree that this is individual for each person, for example, one friend of mine loves to peel small potatoes, it calms her down, but it annoys me terribly! But my husband always entrusted me with such jewelry repairs as grouting tiles.

Women, as a rule, are more pedantic, more corrosive or something, and are able to give out equally good results of the work done for a long time. And this is exactly what you need for a high-quality grout. Plus, women have an almost innate vision of beauty. This quality also plays into the hands in this matter. Why? You will understand this further.

Any work, and this one is no exception, should start with positive thoughts in your head and set your mind to a positive result only. But at the same time, do not forget that difficulties can arise at any time and you need to be ready to cope with them.
So, all work will consist of several stages:

1. Materials and tools for grouting.

1. A brush with soft bristles.
2. A screwdriver or any other object with a sharp and rigid tip so that it can be used to clean out the remaining hardened glue or solution.
3. Soft sponge or cloth.
4. Rubber spatula.
5. Whisk or attachment (for mixing large volumes).
6. Dry mix (grout).
7. Water 5-20 ˚С.
8. Capacity for kneading.

As for the question of which grout to choose, I, for example, use Ceresit grout in my work, because today it is considered one of the most environmentally friendly building mixtures.

Add the required amount of dry mixture to the required amount of water at a temperature of 5-20˚С, and stir properly. It is in the water that you add the dry mixture, and not vice versa.

When stirring, it is convenient for me to use a regular whisk for whisking, its shape is like that of a mixing attachment for a blender. Of course, this method is fine if you are mixing a small amount of the mixture for working alone.

If the batch is half a bucket, for several people, a room of twenty square meters will have to be rubbed. meters, you won't get off with a whisk. In this case, it is better to use a special nozzle, we used it to mix the mixture when carrying out work on.

After stirring well, breaking all the lumps, leave for 5 minutes. After this time, stir again and proceed. The consistency of the grout should be like that of thick sour cream, it should not flow out of the seams, but it should not roll and crumble from the density.

If this happens, do not waste your nerves and spoil your mood, it is better to immediately correct the mixture, add a little water or vice versa dry powder.

It is better to use a round or oval form for diluting grout, such as a plastic paint bucket. Everything in it mixes well and does not clog dry powder in the corners, as it could happen in a square container.

If this is your first time doing this, do not dilute the entire grout at once. Start at 0.5kg or less. At this level, you will have 30 minutes to practice before the mixture starts to dry.

Right to left or left to right?

It doesn't matter which side you start horizontally from right to left or left to right. But vertically, it is better to start from the top. It’s just more convenient, tested on our own experience, if something drips from the spatula onto the wall, it will not spoil the already finished seam.

In order not to get confused in the entire volume of empty seams that need to be rubbed: visually define blocks for yourself, for example, 4 by 4 tiles and work with them one after another.

4. How to grout tiles.

We take a little grout on a rubber spatula and carefully begin to apply it to the seams between the tiles with pressing movements.

Periodically remove the excess mixture that has fallen on the tile around the seam, while placing the spatula perpendicular to the seam. Thus, not only the excess is removed, but also the top layer of grout is leveled flush with the surface of the tile.

In principle, the story about how to grind the seams on the tiles need not continue. When the mixture dries up (after 30 minutes), wipe the tile with a wet cloth to remove the dried grout from the tile itself and that's it.

But, in my opinion, everything will look much nicer if the seams between the tiles are designed in the form of a groove. This will give the wall a bump and make each tile stand out. It is very easy to do this, after you have applied the grout flush with the tiles, take a rubber spatula and walk along the seam with its corner, cleaning out the excess mixture.

After this operation, the seams between the tiles look a little messy and even rough somewhere. To fix this, I took an ordinary foam rubber sponge, moistened it a little in water and, with a slight pressing motion, passed it along the seam. This can be seen in the photo. After that, the seam becomes even and smooth.

When the seams are dry, you can take a not very wet sponge or cloth and wash the tile itself with gentle movements.

By the way, in the photographs in the article "" the results of my work on grouting the joints between the tiles.

Now on the market there are grouting from a variety of manufacturers, and most importantly, different colors. Therefore, it will not be difficult to choose it to match the tile.

And you can also experiment and make a contrasting version where the tiles are white, and the grout, for example, is burgundy. Of course, such a solution should be in harmony with the overall design of the room and furniture. This is to the question of the vision of beauty mentioned above.

In any case, I wish you success in your work and an excellent result, which you will be satisfied with!
I hope this article on how to grout tiles was helpful.

In conclusion, I suggest watching a small video clip "How to grout tiles with your own hands":

The final stage in the design of a bathroom with tiles is always the sealing of the seams. After this operation, the tiled masonry acquires completeness and accuracy.

Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom is an affordable job for anyone, even an inexperienced master. One has only to start and "fill" your hand - and the further process will go quickly. It should be noted that much in carrying out such finishing work depends on the chosen material. So, for those who have no experience in work, it is better to choose a grout that dries long enough. Using a quickly solidifying material can ruin the whole look of even a well-laid tile.

Quality grout criteria

The joint filler is designed to protect the adhesive composition on which the tiles are laid, wall and floor surfaces from moisture penetration, dirt, mold, as well as for the final aesthetic design of the coating. Therefore, grouting is indispensable - the finishing material with uncovered seams will not stay long on the walls and floors, and on the surfaces under it a favorable environment will be created for the development of mold and mildew, which sooner or later will affect the base.

To work with the material easily, and the seams between the tiles turned out to be neat and reliable, any grout must meet certain requirements. A mixture prepared from dry formulations or sold ready-made should have the following qualities:

The uniformity of the composition will greatly facilitate the work - in this case, it will completely fill all the seams. It is unacceptable for the mixture to have hard inclusions, which tend to create "plugs" in the gaps between the tiles, which will not allow the grout to penetrate the entire depth of the joint, and leave air voids.
The elasticity of the mortar will also contribute to a high-quality filling of the joints, since it will easily spread over the grooves and will allow the work to be carried out quickly.
Strength after hardening. The grout should not crumble, and when cleaning, it should not be washed out.
Material hydrophobicity after solidification. The joint filler should repel moisture, not absorb it.
Resistant to household chemical detergents, as any tile flooring requires periodic cleaning.
Aesthetic appearance. The joints between the tiles should be smooth and neat, and the shade of the grout should be in harmony with

Types of grout by material of manufacture

Today on sale you can find one- and two-component grout, produced in the form of dry mixes, ready-made pastes and solutions. They are manufactured on a variety of basic bases:

Cement.
Polymer-cement.
Cement-sand.
Polyurethane.
Epoxy and furan based resins.
Silicone.

In addition, there are groutings that can be made by hand from alabaster, gypsum, cement and sand, clay and lime, sodium "liquid glass" and other materials.

However, the independent production of the material may not be entirely of high quality, and the filler will simply crumble out of the seams under the influence of external factors - humidity and temperature drops. Grouts made at the factory in compliance with all technologies and with the use of special antiseptic additives are undoubtedly more reliable than those that will be made at home.

Therefore, it is better to purchase ready-made materials, especially since they are quite affordable. And it is recommended to make do-it-yourself grout only in extreme cases.

Cement-based joint fillers

The most popular and widely used are cement-based grouting. They are produced by most of the well-known companies for the production of building mixtures.

Cement-based grouting can be divided into two types - made with or without the addition of sand.

The mixture, which contains sand, is used to seal wide joints, more than 4 millimeters. Narrow gaps are filled with softer fine-grained grout made in combination with polymer components. In the instructions for use located on the packaging, the manufacturer always indicates for what width of seams a particular composition is intended.

For the manufacture of mixtures, Portland cement is used, which has a fine grinding, due to which, when kneading, the mixture is homogeneous. In addition, in order to achieve the elasticity of the solution, the manufacturer adds lime components to it.

The mixture can be made using room temperature water or latex based. The latter will be called polymer-cement grout.

A properly mixed mixture will provide a smooth and even high-quality seam, which will not only reliably close the gaps from moisture, but also give a neatness to the entire masonry.

Cement-based mixes can be packed in paper bags or plastic buckets.

Cement grouts can be of different colors. Some manufacturers make compositions already in color, while others have coloring pigments included and are added only during manufacture.

If desired, metallic "gold" or "silver" powder can be added to the grout - this will make the appearance of the finish richer and give it a specific elegance.

Silicone joint fillers

Silicone joint filler is a one-component compound that is packed in special plastic cartridges (tubes) and applied to the joints using a construction gun. This type of grout consists of silicone with an acidic hardener. The material is essentially a sealant. It completely closes seams, is moisture resistant and elastic, has antiseptic qualities.

Silicone sealant - excellent joint filler in particularly difficult areas

This joint filler is most often used in combination with other grouting compounds. Basically, gaps are sealed with it only in problem areas, for example, at the joints of planes or in the area where the bath is adjacent to the tile, since it has a fairly high price and requires a lot of consumption. However, if possible, it can be applied to all seams, moreover having any width. Its only drawback is that a silicone sealant is produced in a poor variety of shades - mostly white or transparent compounds prevail.

It is easy to fill the seams with silicone sealant, the main thing is to make the correct cut on the cap attached to the cartridge - it must match the width of the seam, and evenly press the handle of the construction gun. Then the filler will enter the seams in an even strip.

Resin based grout

Epoxy joint filler

Epoxy grout consists of two components - an epoxy compound and a hardener. The mass of the solution is mixed immediately before application.

This type of grout is highly durable and resistant to external mechanical influences, as well as to high humidity and significant temperature changes.

Epoxy joint filler has a very long service life. Such grout does not lose its original appearance for 45 ÷ 50 years.

After combining the two components of the grout, it acquires a viscous consistency, and it is quite difficult to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in filling seams, but a decision has been made to use this particular type of material, then it is better to entrust the work to a professional master.

It is recommended to use epoxy grout in cases where wide, over 6 mm joints are provided between the tiles. It fills cavities well and, when hardened, acquires a high density, close to the density of the tile itself.

In order for the wall and floor cladding, where the epoxy aggregate was used, to have an aesthetic appearance, you need to choose high quality ceramic tiles with perfectly smooth edges and corners, otherwise the grout will not hide, but, on the contrary, emphasize the flaws of the finishing material.

There is a variant of epoxy aggregate that includes the composition of Portland cement, which plays the role of a fixer. Working with this material is identical to mixing and grouting, but as it cures, it acquires the characteristics of a traditional epoxy aggregate.

In the epoxy mixture, mixed traditionally or with the use of Portland cement, if desired, one of the types of metal powder can be added. In this case, the framing of the tile will turn out to be very original, and it will especially look advantageous if the seams are wide, of the order of 6 ÷ 8 mm.

The price for this type of grout is quite high, so it is rarely used at home. Basically, it is used for surface cladding in industrial workshops and laboratory premises, where its strength, durability, and resistance to aggressive environments are especially needed.

Furan resin filler

This type of grout is made on the basis of furanol with the addition of fupfil alcohol to it. The resulting material, when cured, acquires the highest qualities of resistance to any impact, either chemical detergents, acids, ultraviolet rays, moisture and temperature. The composition of this material, as well as in the epoxy mixture, does not include water, therefore it completely lacks the ability to absorb it.

Choosing this filler, you need to know that it is quite difficult to work with it, since it requires a special approach to the preparation of the joint surfaces.

The disadvantages of this material can be called its high price and lack of color variety, since it has only one color - black.

This grout is rarely used to decorate tile masonry at home, although it should be noted that black is combined with any of the shades of the color scheme. If the tile is of high quality and has no flaws at the edges, then framing it in black will add rigor and clarity to the finish.

Polyurethane grout

The most convenient type of joint filler to use is a ready-made elastic compound made on the basis of polyurethane resins and an aqueous dispersion, without the use of cement. The solution does not require preparation, as it is sold as a ready-made homogeneous paste.

It is suitable for grouting joints 1 ÷ 6 mm wide between ceramic tiles and glass mosaics.

The grout composition is well distributed in the gaps, filling them completely. After final hardening and polymerization, it is well cleaned of dirt and has a high water-repellent characteristics.

This type of filler is available in a wide range of pastel shades to match any tile.

Polyurethane-based grout is suitable for grouting tiles on horizontal and vertical surfaces of the bathroom, as well as for other areas, including heated floors.

Tile grout prices

Tile grout

Self-preparation of grout for joints

Just in case, it would be nice to know several recipes for making a joint filler at home, since there are different situations from which you urgently need to find a way out. Knowing the composition and manufacturing technology, it is not difficult at all.

Cement-sand mixture

The most affordable and simple recipe for making an aggregate is to use cement and fine sand for it. They are taken in proportions of 1: 1 or 1: 2. The two ingredients are dry mixed and then water is added in small portions. The composition is thoroughly mixed and brought to a homogeneous state - it should have the consistency of thick sour cream.

To prepare a cement-sand grout, you can use both gray and white cement, and to give the composition a certain shade, coloring pigments are added to it - they can be purchased in dry or dissolved form.

In addition, metal powder can be added to the solution, which will make it indistinguishable from that purchased at a hardware store.

Latex additives are sometimes added to increase the elasticity of the mixture. Thus, you get a classic grout, which will be identical to that produced in the factory.

Gypsum grout

Trowelling mastic can also be prepared from gypsum, using slaked lime as a plasticizer additive. This ingredient is essential, as without it, the hardened gypsum will be very brittle.

In addition, lime will prolong the setting time of the gypsum grout. Everyone knows that gypsum quickly sets and hardens, so you should not make a large amount of material - it is best to do this in small portions. After using up each portion of grout, before preparing the next one, the container and spatula should be thoroughly cleaned each time, since small and large frozen particles of gypsum will interfere with work.

Gypsum is a fragile material and not sufficiently plastic, therefore, it can crumble under mechanical stress. In addition, it is able to absorb moisture, so it is better not to use such a grout in the bathroom.

Alabaster grout

Today, alabaster is not as popular as it used to be, but it continues to be used in construction. This material is a type of gypsum, or more precisely, it is burnt his version.

It has always been used to seal joints between slabs, cracks and recesses in plaster, so earlier its supply could be found in every home. Alabaster faded into the background after appearing in specialized stores of various building mixtures, which have a narrowly focused purpose and perfectly cope with a variety of problems.

If necessary, from this material it is quite possible to prepare a mastic for sealing joints. The process of its preparation is simple and consists in adding water to dry alabaster in small portions. Do not knead a large amount of the mixture, as it, like gypsum, quickly loses its elasticity and hardens.

Alabaster grout is also not very durable - it will not last more than 3 ÷ 5 years. But you can temporarily use it if there is a need to close the seams, but there is no way to purchase ready-made material.

Clay grout

You don't need to write off material like clay. It is not without reason that it has always been used for waterproofing work, since it has good hydrophobic qualities. Preparing a joint filler with this material is slightly more hassle than mixing it with cement and sand or plaster. Clay requires cleaning and wiping, because it may contain various solid inclusions, from which it must be freed. Then, it is soaked, as it must acquire plasticity.

Lime is added to the finished, well-mixed clay mass to enhance plasticity and cement - for faster hardening of the grout. Very little lime and cement are poured. The proportions of the solution are approximately 10: 1: 1 - the main role in it is played by clay.

For manufacturing, you can use a material of any color, if desired, color and metal powder are added to it.

The clay will reliably protect the joints from moisture, it is not afraid of temperature changes, and if necessary, it will be easy to clean the joints from it in order to replace it with a more professional grouting mixture.

How much material is required for grouting?

So, for a high-quality finish, it is best to use special industrial-made compounds. But how many do you need to purchase?

Usually, on the packaging of the grout, the manufacturer indicates the average consumption of material per square meter of the tiled surface. However, these data are very approximate, since they do not take into account the dimensions of the tiles and the specific thickness of the joints.

Probably everyone understands that the smaller the tile is in size, the more it fits per unit area and, therefore, the longer the total length of the seams. And the required amount of grout for tiles of various types can vary significantly.

The general formula can be expressed by the following expression:

Ry = (L + M) / (L × M) × h × d × k

In the formula, alphabetic symbols indicate:

Ry- specific consumption of grout per square meter of area;

L and M- respectively, the length and width of the ceramic tiles selected for laying (mm);

h- tile thickness (mm);

d- planned width of the gap between the tiles - joint thickness (mm);

k- coefficient taking into account the density of the mortar mixture of the material. It would not be a big mistake to accept its value of about 1.7 ÷ 1.8 - for most trowel mixtures, the density indicators are exactly the same (in kg / dm³).

The resulting value will only have to be multiplied by the area of the surface covered with tiles and, for reliability, add about 10% of the reserve:

Rsum= 1.1 ×Ry × S

S- the area of the surface to be tiled with tiles.

Rsum- the total amount of grout to be purchased (in kilograms).

To make it easier for the reader, a calculator is placed below calculation, which contains all the mentioned ratios, including the 10% reserve.

For almost any ceramic tile at the final stage of finishing, a finishing operation is required to seal the tile joints with a special decorative compound. Do-it-yourself grouting of tile seams in the bathroom with your own hands is quite simple, but, like laying tiles, finishing requires patience, accuracy and accuracy in work, otherwise all the shine and beauty of expensive ceramic material can be spoiled by a sloppy look and stains on the surface of the seams between the tiles.

What gives the use of grout

Tiles in the bathroom have been used for more than a hundred years; it is difficult to come up with a more suitable material for floors and walls in a humid and warm atmosphere. Traditionally, joints and seams between tiles in the bathroom were covered with a trowel of painted or pure plaster. The joints did not always turn out to be solid and durable, periodically, as the material crumbled, to restore the insulation, it was necessary to re-grout the tiles in the bathroom with our own hands.

With the advent of expensive designer tiles with a multicolor glaze coating, the use of gypsum was abandoned. Modern compounds for grouting, in addition to an excellent decorative appearance of the bathroom, perform at least two additional functions:

Waterproof and protect joints from water and dirt penetration. Soap, shampoo, modern detergents mixed with water are able to penetrate into the smallest cracks and pores of the inter-tile space. If you do not grout, any tile adhesives or compounds that hold the tiles to the walls and floor of the bathroom will dissolve and lose strength;
The grout compound evens out the stresses that arise in the tiled rows as the adhesive dries and shrinks, thereby reducing the risk of chipping or cracking of the ceramic.

Of course, pure cement mortar or gypsum does not have the ability to stop moisture, moreover, both materials are prone to shrinkage, which means that after hardening, microscopic cracks form along the grout lines, in which dirt and moisture will accumulate.

For your information! If the water falling on the walls and floor of the bathroom contains a large amount of salts, then salt deposits accumulate in the cracks and sub-tile space. With poor water resistance and the strength of the grout material, the joints between the tiles become whitish and often crumble like chalk.

One of the ways to protect tile joints is dry grouting with cement or whitewash. This method of protection allows you to partially renew the natural color of the seam, but cannot strengthen it or make it waterproof. Therefore, before laying, experienced tilers recommend choosing the right shade of the grout composition, which will not absorb dirt and darken against the background of a stable color background of the tile.

To get a durable and high-quality joint, the grout material must meet several criteria at once. Firstly, the material must be as homogeneous, plastic and fluid as possible in order to fill the cavities of the joints without bubbles and shrinkage. Secondly, the hardened film of the material should be as dense as possible, hard, not to react with detergents and cleaning agents. Thirdly, the materials used for grouting the bathroom floor tiles must have good wear resistance and zero moisture absorption, even when exposed to water for a long time.

To achieve the listed qualities, modern grouting materials are made on the basis of polymer bases:

Polymer-cement water-soluble mixtures, with and without the addition of sand filler, most often these are acrylic and latex modified resins with a high content of butyl styrene rubber;
Polyurethane, furan or epoxy resins. Chemically cured polymers make the best wear-resistant and moisture-resistant bathroom tile grout;
Organosilicon masses and sealants.

For your information! Many ceramic tile manufacturers recommend using their own branded grout. With all the positive qualities, such materials are not cheap and are sold in kilogram or half-kilogram packaging.

For a small bathroom 2x1.5 m, tiled with tiles with a side of 30 cm, with a joint width of 4 mm, approximately 1300-1400 g of the mixture will be required.

The positive qualities of branded materials include the relative simplicity of color selection, which is often performed simply by a numeric code, and the minimum content of abrasive materials. When using counterfeit compounds when sealing and polishing the joints between tiles, such mixtures can leave marks and stubborn stains on the bathroom walls.

Characteristics and methods of using grouting mixtures

The grouting procedure begins at the stage of laying ceramics and tiles. First of all, it is necessary to ensure that as little tile glue and mortar as possible gets into the joints between the tiles. Anything that gets into it must be removed with a brush or a thin wooden bolt. Once the adhesive has set, tile joints can be cleaned more vigorously using a scribe or boot knife. Sometimes the remnants of the glue inside the seam can only be cut off with a small, double-folded strip of emery cloth.

Advice! Processing the ends of the tiles in the bathroom with emery increases the adhesion strength of the grout mass with ceramics at times, but such preparation should be done with caution, since emery can damage the front glazed surface.

The process of sealing the seam itself is reduced to two simple operations:

Application of the compound to clean and dry tile joints. To do this, use a plastic or rubber spatula with a smooth, soft edge of the blade. When filling the seam, it is necessary to push the mass along the joints so that the air from under the plastic grout is squeezed out along the seam, and does not remain in the form of bubbles under the outer crust;
Actually, the operation itself of grouting the dried seam with a soft sponge. Water-soluble grout is washed off with a clean, washed sponge. Epoxy is cleaned with cellulose wipes and a liquid solvent.

Grouting with polyurethane or epoxy grout requires patience and care, as incomplete resin removal usually results in darkening of the tile areas adjacent to the seams. It will be very difficult to remove resin residues from the unprotected ceramic surface after the grout has cured.

Water-free joint compound

Polyurethane, furan and epoxy grouts are prepared at room temperature. Unlike cement and plaster materials, resin mixed with hardener must be gently kneaded in a plastic container using a long blade metal spatula. You can stir the grout with a mixer, but this will create a lot of unwanted air bubbles. After cooking, the resin is placed in the cold for a short time to release air from the grout mass. If this is not done, the shrinkage of the material in the seams will be very large.

Anhydrous polymer masses are used for joints with a width of more than 5 mm. Taking into account the high adhesion of the resin composition, before grouting, the ceramics are coated with the protective composition АН737 "Sopro". After the initial curing in the process of grouting, thanks to the impregnate, the resin is easily, without stains, erased with cellulose napkins from the tile surface, as in the video:

Epoxy and furan resins are often used for grouting floor tiles. Resin in the cured state has a much lower hardness than ceramics, therefore, for floor options, inert fillers from metal powder, washed quartz, granite dust are added to the grout. Fillers are often given a metallic sheen of chrome or gilding, which can significantly enhance the decorative characteristics of the grout.

Epoxy grouting is performed with a metal elastic spatula, first, the mass is hammered across the seam, and at the same time the excess is squeezed out along the seam towards the free space.

Materials for grouting based on polymer cement

In fact, it is the most inexpensive, simple and easy-to-use grout mixture. For cooking, just add a small amount of water and mix thoroughly with a spatula on a falcon or paint board. The grout is kneaded in order to achieve maximum plasticity and uniformity, without dry lumps and grains. During this time, the cement and polymer additive will react with water, and the material will acquire the consistency of thick sour cream.

Small starting portions of 50-70 g of grout are prepared to check the quality and color of the resulting joint. Polymer cement trowel is the only one of all, which must be selected a couple of tones darker than the main tone of the tile. After drying, the cement material on the surface of the joints brightens, sometimes it is difficult to immediately match the tone of the ceramic tile, so you have to make several attempts with an individual selection of the percentage of toner.

Before laying the grout mass in the tile joints, the joints are wiped with a damp sponge in order to improve the surface wettability. It is not recommended to do this with a brush or a spray gun, as a large amount of moisture gets into the sub-tile space, and the tile may fall behind.

If you want to prepare a trowel mass for walls with an area of several tens of squares, then the kneading is performed using a mixer and a plastic container. Initially, half the measured amount of water is poured, ¾ of the dry mass of the mixture is poured and kneading is started, adding water and dry powder in small portions.

As soon as the mixture sets, but still remains plastic, the tiles on the walls are rubbed with a soft sponge, thoroughly rinsing it under running water. After drying, the surface of the tile is rubbed with a dry cotton cloth.

To give the seam the same shape and depth, the material laid in the inter-tile space can be embroidered with a special plastic rod - a stylus, slightly smaller in width than the gap between the tiles. This technique allows you to make the pattern on the ceramics embossed and expressive, the best way to fit the seams is to imitate natural stone - jasper, granite, malachite, marble.

Conclusion

In some cases, you can prepare the joint compound yourself. Dry walls in the bathroom can be successfully rubbed with a mixture of alabaster or gypsum with toner and wood glue. Cement trowels can be prepared on the basis of PVA-M glue. PVA is not used with alabaster and gypsum due to the tendency of the polyvinyl acetate emulsion to acquire a gray-yellow tint over time. When using acrylic resins, special wetting additives are added to the cement, which improve the plasticity of the grouting material.

When the main work on laying the tiles is left behind, you can proceed to its final stage - grouting. This work plays a very important role, because a well-made grout will be able to mask defects in the laying of tiles, if any, and, conversely, a bad grout will completely destroy the impression of a flawlessly executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grout turn black over time from mildew and mildew. Therefore, it is worth paying special attention to the question of how to grind the seams on the tiles in order to improve the overall appearance of the coating, as well as provide additional protection.

Video instruction

What are the types of grouting compounds?

There are two types of tile grout:

cement-based;
epoxy based.

Cement grout inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixes with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers give the grout resistance to moisture, and this allows it to be used even in outdoor areas. Ready-made mixtures are also on sale, which do not require additional preparation, but they usually cost much more.

If the joint is wider than 3 mm during installation, then it is better to purchase a cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the joints are of smaller width, then it is recommended to use a conventional cement-based grout.

Safety tip: Cement grout can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.

Epoxy grout contain epoxy resin as well as hardener. Such compositions perfectly tolerate mechanical, chemical and thermal effects, they are much more stable and stronger than cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are used mainly in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such a grout only if the width of the joints between the ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate into narrower joints).

Epoxy grout is a mixture of 2 components: a paste and a catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, so a balance must be used.

Which tile grout is best? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for the joints of ceramic tiles, since it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from the effects of chemicals. If, nevertheless, you decide to buy a cement-based grout, then it is advisable to buy latex for it.

As for the color of the grout, this is a matter of taste: the grout can be matched to the main color of the ceramic tile, or you can prefer the classic light tone.

Trowel width

What should be the width of the trowel joints? Much of this depends on personal preference. Some people like tight seams, for example. Too wide seams suppress the tiles visually. Square ceramic tiles measuring 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm seams. The irregular shape of the tile becomes less noticeable with wider joints, but no more than 12 mm. A seam with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if coarse sand is added to the grout, but even this will not always save it from cracking.

It is equally not recommended to make the joints too narrow, as it will not be possible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water can seep into the interior of the cladding. Good craftsmen know that the quality of the cladding will be at a high level if the joints are wide enough when they can be well filled with grout. This means that the seams will be waterproof, and they will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of the seams decreases many times when they are less than 1 millimeter wide.

Grouting ceramic tiles: how it's done

How is ceramic tile grout done correctly? First of all, we check if the glue is completely dry. Then we thoroughly clean the seams from the remnants of glue, dirt and dust, remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, moisten the tiles before grouting, otherwise they will draw in water from the grouting mixture. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.

All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where the grouting work will be carried out. The optimum temperature for grouting is 18-25 ° C.

You can see the details of the grouting process in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:

mixing the trowel;
holding the trowel mixture for its better wetting;
re-mixing the grout;
distribution of grout;
cleaning excess grout.

Mix the grout with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are exclusively water-miscible. In any case, add such an amount of liquid so that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).

The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid

We mix it by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (at first we pour only three quarters of the total amount of liquid). After mixing all the dry components with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is carried out using a rectangular trowel or an electric mixer. The mixer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not get into the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.

All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to wet. Stir the grout again so that no lumps remain. If it is necessary to prepare several portions of grouting solution, then you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to observe the proportions and order of combining the components, and so that the color of the grout is constant, when mixing the next portion we add grout from each package to it.

Advice! When purchasing multiple packs of grout, make sure they all come with the same serial number.

The finished grout must have sufficient density so that it can be kept in a heap during distribution.

Materials and tools required for grouting

Rubber scraper
Grout
Sponge
Bucket
Wooden stick with a pointed end, bridging or toothbrush
Plywood
Clean cloth
Paint roller
Respirator (for working with cement grout)
Rubber gloves
Protective glasses

We spread the grout with a slide on the surface of the cladding.

The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile.

To distribute the mortar, we use a trowel (for walls or floors, respectively). Apply the grout diagonally to the tiles, holding the trowel at a 30 ° angle to it. We try not only to cover the seams with a solution, but also to press it into the seams with effort in order to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.

Grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile

We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, we distribute the solution over a small area (no more than 2 square meters) in order to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it sets quickly, stop and clean. Sometimes it is possible to distribute the grout over an area of up to 9m2, and only then start cleaning, in other cases it is necessary to cover only small areas and do their cleaning.

The first grout removal is dry.

To do this, we use a grater, holding it at right angles to the tiles and moving it diagonally to the grout joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). Once the excess has been removed, allow the grout to set before cleaning. While we mash and clean, do not forget to mix the grout periodically so that it retains its softness until it is applied to the next areas.

During the grouting process, the grout is periodically stirred so that it retains its softness.

The second trowel removal is wet. When should you start it? The time it takes for the grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It can take 5 minutes, and it can take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of moisture from the grout is directly dependent on the adhesive and tile, the type of substrate, as well as weather conditions.

Wet cleaning of the cladding surface

For wet cleaning, a bucket of water and a sponge are needed (it is desirable that the sponge has rounded edges - this will not form grooves in the seams). Remove sand and cement particles with gentle circular motions. Proceed with care to avoid grooving in the grout joints. We clean only a small area (1-2m2) at a time, wetting the sponge often enough to wash off grout particles that have penetrated the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and squeeze it out as hard as possible, shake off excess water from our hands.

At the second stage, we inspect the grouting joints so that they are all neat. We align and smooth the seams using a jointing, toothbrush or wooden stick with a pointed end.

With the help of jointing, the seams are leveled and smoothed

Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be straight on top, not convex, although most seams then become a little concave, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all have the same depth and shape.

The seams were leveled, now it remains to thoroughly clean the surface of the cladding from the remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so as not to wipe the grout from the joints with a sponge. After this cleaning, the remaining grout must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. The seams should dry in about 15 minutes.

The plaque remaining on the tile surface from grout is removed with gauze or a soft, clean cloth.

The work is done, place a sheet of plywood on the floor and do not allow anyone to walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts dry up to two or more weeks (we specify the drying time in the manufacturer's instructions).

The final moment in decorating the walls with tiles is always grouting. After that, the finish takes on a finished aesthetic appearance. Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom does not require professional skills.

Sealing the seams between the tiles is carried out in order to give the surface an aesthetic appearance and affects the protection against fungal infections, and also increases the service life of the finish itself. What tools and materials are needed for the work and how to competently grout the joints in the bathroom on our own, we will describe below.
So, it was decided to grout the joints yourself. To do this, stock up on some theoretical knowledge.

Do-it-yourself grouting of tiles in the bathroom does not require professional skills

Installation of tiles always involves ensuring the distance between them. This is done in order to protect the tiles from crackling, which can occur from temperature changes in the bathroom and changes in the water regime. Also, there are always gaps between the tiles and the installed sanitary appliances: bathroom, sink, baseboards. These gaps must be sealed to prevent dust and moisture from entering them.
For sealing joints, various types of grout are used, which have their own purpose.
Main types:

The cost of two kilograms of dry mix for grouting for a bathroom is about two hundred rubles. The price policy of grouting mixtures is influenced by the manufacturer's brand, composition, color, packaging.
The well-established brands that produce mixtures for tiles are: Baulux, Ceresit, Knauf, Atlas. Each of them is suitable for working with seams in the bathroom.
If the area requiring embedding is small, you can use liquid solutions.

Grouting ceramic tiles

Grouting technique

Preparation phase
Remove dust from the seams. This is easy to do with a vacuum cleaner. If you don't have a vacuum cleaner, use a medium bristle brush. Clean old grout and dirt from old joints.

Tip: Pick up the tools and care products in advance that won't scratch the tiles.
Dampen the seams with water. This can be done with a household spray bottle for flowers.
ATTENTION !: Start grouting twenty-four hours after the tile was installed.

To organize work you need:

Pour dry grout into the prepared container. Dilute with water and stir the mixture well until the required consistency of thick sour cream. The proportions are indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Stir the solution twice, with an interval of fifteen minutes. This is necessary for its maturation. A mixer can be used as an auxiliary stirring tool.

You can use a mixer as an auxiliary tool for stirring.

Proceed to the stage when the preparatory procedures are completed. Scoop the prepared grout out of the container with a steel trowel. Take a small amount of mortar from it and fill the seam. Remove excess grout. How much mixture, for the convenience of work, must be taken on a rubber spatula for grouting, experience will tell. Also, one by one, the remaining sections are filled.

Tip: The mixture may shrink. In this case, reapply a fresh coat.

After completing the work, rest for thirty minutes - until the grout dries, after which you will conduct a visual audit of the seams. Moisten the prepared rag with warm water, squeeze well and lightly remove the excess solution from the tile.

IMPORTANT! Remove excess mastic with wide, circular strokes to ensure that the grout remains intact. This is especially important for mosaic tiles.

Unfilled areas that appear after the grout has dried, fill in and let dry. Next, wipe the tile with a damp cloth.

Tip: To avoid stains on the tile, wash the sponge periodically. Remove excess mastic from the tile immediately, without waiting for it to dry completely. Otherwise, you will have to use a solvent to remove it.

Unfilled areas that appear after the grout dries, fill in and let dry

After the grout has dried, wipe the entire surface of the tile with a damp cloth. Wait until the grout is completely dry.
The manufacturer indicates the drying time on the packaging. It usually takes twenty four hours:

It is always possible to refresh the mastic applied several years ago, and even change by choosing a grout in a contrasting color with the tile, to embody new ideas. For example, black tiles will perfectly combine with golden grout.

The question is very relevant for many. Joint protection can be performed:

Silicone sealant.
Ceramic corner.
Plastic skirting board.
Self-adhesive tape.

When the sink or bathtub is installed close to the wall, level the joint with a sealant to protect it from water ingress. Before applying the sealant, the seam is cleaned of dust and trimmed in order to form an inconspicuous connection between the surfaces.

Before applying the sealant, the seam is cleaned of dust and trimmed in order to form an inconspicuous connection between the surfaces.

Renewing old bathroom grout

After a certain time, the tile joints in the bathroom should be renewed. The need is caused by both external aesthetics and hygiene requirements. In old joints, when the premises are sufficiently humid, a large number of bacteria and fungi accumulate, and this is very dangerous to health. The person may develop allergic reactions and skin diseases. Therefore, the maintenance of the premises in a clean and repaired condition is necessary for the normal performance of its functionality.

The bathroom must be refurbished on a regular basis. It is necessary to thoroughly wipe and rinse all the elements of ceramics and faience, as well as the gaps between them. A large arsenal of tile care products produced by our chemical industry will help with this. For cleaning the bathroom, it is better to use chlorine-containing solutions, they eliminate up to 98% of known bacteria. However, over time, the grout between the joints can become thinner from constant mechanical and chemical exposure and a new grout is required. To determine the need to replace it, consider the presence of the following signs:

Darkening of the seams has occurred.
The mastic crumbles out of the seams.
Fragments of black mold were found on the seams.
Yellow mud appears.

Tip: If you have any of the above signs, urgently carry out a general cleaning of the old mastic in the bathroom.

It often happens when the usual general cleaning is not enough - too "neglected" seams (rust, mold). In this case, use more serious measures: replacing the grout between the tiles. This allows you to renovate the room, change the color of the grout, which generally has a positive effect on the appearance of the room.

In this case, use more serious measures: replacing the grout between the tiles.

Use a spatula to dispose of the old grout. To do this, moisten the seam with water, then carefully scrape off all the mastic. Perform the work very carefully, as there is a possibility of breaking the surface of the tile. Use a special solvent to remove epoxy from seams. After the seams are cleaned, apply an antifungal treatment. This must be done both before applying the solution and after it dries.

IMPORTANT! Don't neglect antifungal treatment. It is necessary to fight bacteria and prevent the grout from breaking down.

New coating

Applying grouting between tiles in the bathroom is an easy task that any beginner can handle. The sequence of all works has already been discussed above. The dry mixture is stirred with water. Do this carefully, as there is a danger of the solution becoming too thin. The normal consistency of the grout should reach a thick sour cream. After mixing the solution well, leave it for fifteen minutes. Stir again (this will help the mixture dissolve better) and start filling the seams between the tiles with small strokes.

There is a possibility that when the mortar dries out, it will crack, so that this does not happen, when drying, spray the joint with plain water. If voids form, repeat the grouting process. After carrying out these works, rub the seams with a sponge.
To avoid the need to change the grouting layer in the future, periodically clean up the bathroom.

IMPORTANT! After completing all the work, before performing the water procedures, wait until the seams dry completely, this will take at least five days.

Again, the best prevention of durable grouting will be a protective coating. It will protect you from the influence of negative factors, increase the service life of the grout, and avoid the appearance of cracks on the tiles.
Thus, by following the listed tips, you will not only enjoy the work done with your own hands, but also save yourself from financial spending in the future.