Correct installation of electrical wiring in a private house. Installation of wiring in the house - an example of diagrams, selection of power, prices for work. Methods for laying electrical wires and cables

Do-it-yourself wiring in the house

The electrification of residential premises is not an easy task. But if you have some knowledge and skills, learn certain rules, then you will be able to do the wiring in the house yourself.

In any case, if you do not dare to contact an electrician, the knowledge gained on our website will allow you to control the work of the called master, point out shortcomings and avoid shortcomings. As a result, this will save you time and help you avoid problems and associated waste.

Do-it-yourself wiring - basic rules

Before starting work, read the Rules for Electrical Installations (PUE), which describes the basics of working with equipment. Do-it-yourself wiring in a house requires the following conditions:

free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required;
they are mounted at the level of 60 - 150 cm from the floor;
opening doors should not block access;
the cable is fed from above;
the installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electric and gas stoves, heating radiators, pipes. The power supply is from below;
the number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6m square. This rule does not apply to the kitchen, here they put sockets according to the number of household appliances. To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to lower the voltage);
the cable is laid with strict observance of the vertical and horizontal (without bends and diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation);
horizontal are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of a door or window opening. The distance to the gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
wiring should not come into contact with metal building structures;
special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. It is forbidden to connect copper wires with aluminum.

Wiring diagrams

All electrics in the house begin with the development of a detailed plan and diagram. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the places for installing devices and laying cables, it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances.
To simplify the wiring, consumers are divided into groups.

The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection scheme, distributes the load and saves materials.
The wiring diagram of a house in a country house differs from the apartment one by the cable connection method: in a multi-storey building, it starts from the floor board. Electricity in a private house requires connection from an air line or from an external distributor.

Current strength determination

An important point in planning electrical wiring is the calculation of the current strength in the electrical network. Knowing this load indicator, you can accurately determine which machine and cable with the appropriate cross section are needed.

Current strength \u003d Total power of household appliances (W) / Mains voltage (V).
For example: eight 60W lamps, 1600W electric kettle, 350W refrigerator, 1200W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V. Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A.
Standard house consumption does not go beyond 25 amperes.

Cable sizing

An equally important task is to determine the cross section of the cables that will be used for distributing electricity. The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. Inconsistency of the cross section with the loads will cause overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and a fire.
You can determine the required cable size using the table.

For example, if the calculated current strength is 16.5A, a closed wiring is planned using copper wires, then a cable of at least 2 square meters is required. mm. For 25 Amperes - 4 mm 2. For different distribution groups, a cable is taken in accordance with the expected load.
Due to the fact that the table indicates extremely accurate values, and in fact there are frequent fluctuations in current strength, a certain sectional margin is needed. To determine the length of the cable, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.

Near the entrance to the apartment, a lighting panel is installed, into which protective shutdown devices are mounted and wires are connected. Usually, for a network of switches and lighting, it is supposed to install an RCD at 16 A, sockets - at 20 A. The electric stove requires a more powerful installation - at 32 A and is connected separately.

Installation of electrical wiring

After all the preliminary calculations, the installation itself will not cause any particular difficulties. The main thing is to follow the recommendations and observe safety precautions.
The first stage is markup. We mark the cable laying line with a marker. Next, we note the location of the lamps, sockets and SCHO (shutdown shield).
At the second stage, we ditch the walls, if hidden wiring is necessary, or we mount it in an open way. Holes for equipment are made with a puncher using a crown nozzle. Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond discs) or a puncher, they make cable grooves about 20 mm deep, where the wires should fit comfortably in width.

On the ceiling, the cable can be attached to the ceiling and hidden by a decorative ceiling. You can also hide the wiring in the voids of the floors by making I / O holes and tighten it there.
Next, a puncher makes holes in the corner of the room for cable entry through the wall. Now you can proceed directly to the installation.
First you need to install the SCHO, inside which the RCD is connected. At the ready-to-connect SCHO, there are zero terminals on top, grounding terminals on the bottom, and automatic machines between them.

Then the cable is brought inside and left unconnected because only a certified electrician with the appropriate certificate has the right to mount it to the distribution board. To connect the input cable to the ASC, the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to ground - yellow with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer). The machines are connected in series from above with a white wire jumper or a special factory-made copper bus. Now you can wire up.

Open mounting option

Installation of open wiring is carried out in the following sequence:

According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters.
We mount distribution boxes, sockets and switches. Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and fix.
We lay the cable from sockets to the SC, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires.
From the lamps and switches to the distribution box we conduct VVG - 3 * 1.5 cable.

The cores of the wires in the junction boxes are connected by color with clamps (PPE caps) or using WAGO type quick connection terminals.
VVG cable 3 * 2.5 in SCHO is attached with a phase (brown or red wire) to the RCD, zero (blue) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wiring with a green stripe) - at the bottom. Now the finished circuit is “called” by the tester. If all is well, then we invite an electrician.

Flush wiring

In the hidden version, the installation of wiring differs only in that the wire is laid using special corrugations that fit into previously prepared strobes, which will allow, if necessary, to replace the wiring without destroying the finish. Socket boxes and junction boxes are installed in the niches made.
Upon completion of all work, the strobes are sealed with plaster; gypsum putty can be used to seal the wiring.

Electrical wiring in a private house

Installation of an electric cable in a private house will require special security measures, especially if the house is wooden.
Posting in such a dwelling is carried out taking into account the following requirements:

Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used.
Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.
All connections are sealed.
Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls and ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators.
Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes, steel boxes without fail with grounding. When using plastic corrugations and boxes, they are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing.

An additional step to improve the safety of a wooden dwelling is the installation of an RCD (differential relay) that reacts to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.

Outcome

Do-it-yourself wiring in a house is not an easy task, but it is quite doable. And if you study this issue well before conducting electrical wiring, the work process will not cause any particular difficulties, and the result will please you.

Each master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting a job, you will be able to appreciate the quality and you will know what you are paying for.

Modern human life cannot be comfortable without electricity at all. When it is absent, it seems that life has stopped, because any household appliance or electric tool requires connection to the mains. Sometimes without electricity it will not even be possible to cook food, not to mention the normal lighting of the home. Therefore, if you are thinking of building, then the wiring diagram in a private house should be a priority issue that should be given special attention. It is necessary to think over and calculate everything to the smallest detail so that not the slightest mistake or inaccuracy in laying and connecting the power supply network will lead to a breakdown of household appliances in the future, or, even worse, to fire and fire.

What is the need for a schema?

The wiring diagram in a private house is a drawing on which all the main power supply units are applied:

An introductory line, which is carried out by a branch from the main power line to the house itself.
Location of the switchboard.
Protective devices and electricity meter.
Places for installing junction boxes, switches and sockets in rooms and premises.
Wiring paths from junction boxes to switching devices.
Places for installing elements of the lighting network (chandeliers, sconces, lamps).

By the time you do the wiring in the house, it is advisable to clearly define where the main household appliances will be located - a refrigerator, air conditioning, a washing machine, a water heater, a dishwasher. This is necessary in order to immediately mount the sockets next to the equipment, and not later stretch it through the entire carrying room.

If your building belongs to a typical one, which was erected by a construction company (this is how entire cottage villages are being built now), then you should be provided with a building project and a wiring diagram. In the case when the construction is carried out independently, for each house they develop their own personal scheme. But in both versions, the main purposes of the circuit are the same:

If you have a ready-made schematic drawing, you can make a list of materials that will be needed to complete the wiring in the house. This will help save money. That is, having a list in hand, you can go through different outlets, calmly decide, choose the most high-quality and suitable for the price of electrical goods. You will not buy anything superfluous and at the same time save yourself from the situation when the installation is already being done, and some materials are not enough, and you urgently run to the first store you come across to buy them at any price.
The wiring diagram will make it possible to determine the maximum load of each electrical unit, which will allow you to correctly select the wire cross-section, calculate the total power, select the necessary protective devices and input cable.
Also, the scheme will help you competently and rationally plan the sequence of work.

Paperwork

Be prepared for the fact that electrical wiring in a private house will also require your nerves, because in order to obtain a permit to perform work, you will need:

Contact the organization that has a power line on its balance sheet, from which it is planned to connect the input. They must issue technical conditions (TU) for this connection.
The next will be an organization or a commercial firm, which, according to the issued specifications, will draw up a project.
Again, the energy supply organization will need to agree on the project, and write an application for connection (on the main line, this must be done by their electricians).
The made input line must be tested by a special electrical laboratory, after which a protocol is issued stating that the input has passed the test and is suitable for operation.
Now the input cable is brought into the switchboard and connected to the input of the electricity meter, which must be sealed by representatives of the energy sales. After the meter, do-it-yourself electrical wiring is done in the house, or you can invite specialists, you will no longer need any other organizations.
The last thing left for you is to conclude an agreement with the energy supply organization for the supply of electricity from their side, and for the timely payment of consumed kilowatt-hours from your side.

Entry planning

The most important thing that distinguishes an electrician in an apartment and in a private house is the input. In multi-storey buildings, the input comes to the switchboard, and from there the wiring to the apartments is already going on. And for a private house, it is necessary to carry out layering from the main line passing nearby. The reliability, quality and safety of power supply depends on how competently and correctly you do this. There are two ways:

Installation of air inlet with cable or insulated wire.
Underground cable entry.

Before you draw an introductory line for a private house, it is very important to think over and plan it so that it is resistant to strong winds, and also does not carry the risk of electric shock to a person in rainy, snowy or wet weather.

Air entry

Such air entry involves pulling a wire or cable from the nearest support of the main power line to the housing construction.

I would like to warn you right away that air input will be rational if the distance from the support to the house is less than 20 m. In the case when the span is more than 20 m, you will need to install another additional support, which may be on the territory of your site. Such a measure is necessary in order to reduce the mechanical load on the wire. When the span is very large, there is a possibility that the wire may break under the influence of strong winds or under its own weight.

How to make an air entry?

It is necessary to drill a hole in the wall of housing construction and insert a piece of metal pipe or a special plastic corrugation into it (the diameter of the hole and pipe will depend on the cross section of the input wire).
A bracket with an insulator installed on it is fixed on the wall outside the house.
Now it is necessary to stretch the steel cable between two insulators (one is on the bracket, the second is on the traverse of the support from which the layers are made).
The lead wire or cable on the pole is connected to the line wires. Then it is laid along the cable to the house, where it is pulled through the hole made into the building. Every 0.5-0.6 m, it is desirable to fix the wire to the stretched steel cable with plastic or metal clamps.

That's all, the input cable went into the building, where it will already be wound up in the switchboard. As you can see, nothing complicated, but some nuances should be taken into account here:

It is very important to ensure sufficient tension on the steel cable.
The wire should be attached to the cable freely, without tension.
The distance from the ground to the wire should not be less than 3.5 m.
The cable and the lead wire attached to it along its entire length should not touch any outbuildings, trees or tall shrubs.
The place where the wire enters directly into the house must be sealed. After it is stretched into the pipe, all the remaining space must be filled with mounting foam. You can apply another option - tightly tamp with mineral wool from a non-combustible material.

The best option for air entry to the house is the SIP brand wire (self-supporting insulated wire). Firstly, its insulation is made of materials that are suitable for use in conditions of sunlight and precipitation, and also withstand significant temperature fluctuations. Secondly, under the insulating layer, in addition to aluminum conductors, there is a steel cable. That is, when installing such a wire, there is no need to stretch a separate carrier cable.

If a single-phase voltage (220 V) is required for private housing construction, then a two-wire wire is required. In the case when a three-phase voltage (380 V) is needed, a four-core wire is required. The minimum cross section of SIP wires is 16 mm 2.

How the installation of air input of electricity is carried out, you can see in this video:

underground input

Laying an introductory cable in the ground has a number of advantages compared to the air method:

Reliability increases due to the fact that the cable is not exposed to sudden temperature changes, precipitation, strong winds.
The style and architectural design of the site has a complete look, that is, they are not spoiled by a stretched cable with a fixed wire or additional support. As a rule, it is for this reason that all fashionable cottages and country houses have an underground entrance.
If this is a summer cottage, where people live only in the summer, and in the winter the housing construction is empty, there is a possibility that hooligans or vandals will cut out and steal the air inlet. With underground laying, this situation is unlikely.
In the event of a short circuit and an electric arc during an underground entry, there is practically no chance that property and people may be affected. And with air input, the fire that occurred can spread to buildings. So high fire safety when laying cables in the ground is a very important advantage, especially for houses made of wood.

But not everything is so perfect, the soil is also quite an aggressive environment. The chemical composition of the soil over time can cause corrosion processes, which will render the cable sheath unusable. At the same time, the soil itself can sag and swell, move and freeze. Groundwater, rodents and microorganisms, as well as pressure from the roots of large trees, will also have their effect. Therefore, if you decide to bring electricity to the house underground, take care to protect the cable, lay it in a plastic or metal pipe.

Well, the main disadvantage of underground input is earthworks. Firstly, they must be coordinated with a bunch of various organizations that can have something laid in this land - water, gas or sewer pipes; heating mains; main cable power lines; telephone lines. Secondly, to lay the cable in the ground, you will need to dig a trench, and this is an additional (and decent) cost. If you do it yourself, spend a lot of time and effort. If you hire someone to carry out earthworks, spend money in terms of money.

In order to better understand the scope of work, we recommend watching the following video:

So before you do the wiring in the house, first weigh the pros and cons, consider the advantages and disadvantages, choose the appropriate input option for yourself. And when you are finished with the external power supply, you can safely proceed to the installation of the internal one.

Load calculation

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a private house requires preliminary work with the head, that is, mental work, namely, you need to calculate what kind of load your home electrical network will have. To make it easier for you, break all electricity consumers into groups:

Lighting elements.
Kitchen appliances (refrigerator, extractor hood, bread maker, electric stove and oven, electric kettle and coffee maker, multicooker and microwave, etc.).
Low-power household appliances and electrical appliances (computer, TV, music center, etc.).
Conditioners.
Electric heating.
Bathroom equipment (water heater, hair dryer and washing machine).
Power tools that are used in utility rooms (hammer drill, electric drill, electric lawn mower, pump, etc.).

Sum up the power of all appliances. Correct the resulting figure by multiplying by 0.7 (this is the generally accepted coefficient for switching on devices at the same time). Please note that the power of each group should not exceed 4.5 kW. Based on the calculated load, determine the cross section and brand of wires. Wiring in a private house is carried out with copper wires. For hidden laying, choose the brands VVGng, PUNP, VVG, for open laying - PUGVP, PUGNP. Wiring made in a private house with such wires will have a decent service life (about 10 years), minimal losses and safe operation.

Distribution board

Normatively, the place where the shield can be installed is not standardized in any way. The only condition is that it must be located no closer than 1 m from the pipelines (meaning any pipes - gas, water, sewer).

In which room it is better to mount the shield, it is also not specified anywhere. Many people prefer to install it in some utility rooms, where it will be convenient to perform switching, or located at the entrance to the house. In any case, try to follow these simple rules:

This room should not be a fire hazard (such as a boiler room). It is forbidden to store gas cylinders and flammable substances near the switchboard.
It is necessary that the room where the shield is located is dry, that is, it is undesirable to install it next to the bathroom.
There must be free access to the shield, do not arrange a warehouse from the room where it is located.

In the shield itself are mounted:

electricity meter;
introductory machine, it is responsible for the power supply of the whole house;
several automata for connecting outgoing pantographs according to their breakdown into groups;
residual current device (RCD), which is paired with an introductory machine.

The shield can be installed in a niche specially made for it, or simply hung on a wall surface.

If the house is huge on several floors with baths, saunas, garages, then one shield is not enough. In such cases, one introductory shield is mounted and additional ones on each floor.

Layout of internal power supply

There are two ways to conduct electrical wiring in a private house - open and hidden. Let's briefly consider each of them separately.

open wiring

The open method of laying wires is also called outdoor, most often used in wooden houses.

Wires can be laid:

in special plastic boxes;
on porcelain insulators using a special cable (the so-called retro style).

The diagram should show which route you are going to route the cables and mark the places where the fixing elements (insulators) will be installed.

For open wiring, special outdoor switching devices (sockets, switches) are used.

Hidden wiring

If the structure is concrete, with many technological voids, a hidden method of laying wires is used. It is more difficult, since you first need to make special grooves in the walls, called strobes, into which the wire or cable will be laid. And after that, the laid conductors will still have to be fixed with alabaster or gypsum mortar.

You will also need indoor switches and sockets. Before installing them, holes are made in the walls, socket boxes are also fixed in them with the help of a solution, and only then switching devices are mounted.

Do-it-yourself hidden wiring is easy to do, the only thing that can cause difficulties, take a lot of time and effort is making strobes and holes.

Everything related to electrical work is regulated by the set of Rules for the installation of electrical installations (PUE). Those who are seriously involved in the installation of electrical wiring, it is useful to get acquainted at your leisure with this book. Here we will give the most basic and important points that you should definitely consider before you do the wiring in the house with your own hands:

All junction boxes, sockets and switches should be easily accessible (not covered with wallpaper, not hidden under plasterboard, not cluttered with bulky furniture that cannot be moved).
The grounding conductor must be attached to household appliances with a bolted connection.
The switches are mounted at a height of 60-150 cm from the floor level, the wires are brought to them from top to bottom.
All wiring connections should be made in junction boxes. Connecting nodes must be securely insulated, it is forbidden to connect copper conductors with aluminum.
Sockets are mounted at a height of 50-80 cm from the floor level. The distance between sockets and gas stoves, pipes, heating radiators should not be less than 50 cm.
Electrical wiring wires should not touch the metal building structures of the building (this is especially true for hidden wiring, be sure to consider this point when you lay wires in strobes).
The number of sockets per room is taken into account at the rate of 1 switching device per 6 m 2 of area. The exception is the kitchen, where you can mount as many sockets as you need to connect all household appliances.
Horizontal wiring is carried out no closer than 15 cm to the ceiling and floor. Vertically, the wires are placed at a distance of 10 cm from door and window openings. The wires of the electrical network should not be brought closer than 40 cm to the gas pipes.

We hope that all this conversation was not in vain. Installation of external and internal power supply of your home, you will definitely start by drawing up a diagram. Think with the whole family where and what kind of equipment you want to place, put everything on paper, draw all the switching devices and wiring paths. So it will be much easier for you to calculate the amount of materials needed. Then it remains only to transfer your scheme from paper to real walls and do the installation work.

Do-it-yourself wiring in an apartment is not safe. A team of experts warn: working with an electrician is high level, not for beginners. If you are a seasoned builder, confident in your abilities and follow all safety measures, then go ahead. Today we talk about all the nuances of installing electrical wiring in a house, apartment and garage.

Wiring diagram in the house

Home wiring begins with a detailed plan. needed for several reasons:

allows you to calculate the amount of material - how much and what kind of wires are needed, with what sections, how many sockets, switches, junction boxes;
determines the location of power and wiring elements;
necessary for future maintenance and repair of hidden wiring.

A single-line schematic diagram and a plan diagram of an apartment or house, drawn to scale, with distribution groups applied to it, are necessary for subsequent high-quality wiring.

Both the house and the apartment have an introductory and internal electrical panel. From the latter, lines lead to the rooms.

The main groups into which energy consumers can be divided:

sockets;
lighting;
powerful devices;
sockets and bathroom lighting;
sockets and kitchen lighting;
outbuildings.

We do not recommend connecting all wiring to one group of points - the load is too large.

IMPORTANT! When drawing up the schemes, it is planned to supply the system with RCD protective devices, which are installed on each distribution group.

The drafting of the wiring diagram is influenced by the intended location of household appliances and their power, which determine the number and placement of sockets and the required wire cross-section.

The wiring diagram in the house and the wiring diagram in the apartment differ in the way electricity is introduced: it enters the house through an overhead line, and into the apartment - through a cable from the shield on the floor. The wiring diagram in the garage may involve the input of electricity from a centralized power line or from a house - overhead or underground.

Wiring in the apartment

The walls in the apartment are concrete or brick, covered with plaster or finished with plasterboard.

IMPORTANT! Wiring in the apartment can be hidden or combined. If necessary, de-energize the room first.

Wiring can be mounted before plaster or mounted in cavities behind drywall. For installation, a pipe, PVC corrugation or a flexible metal sleeve is used. often laid in cable channels.

To ensure safety, automatic switches are installed in the switchboard to protect devices from short-circuit and burnout currents, and protective shutdown devices that turn off consumers during power surges. For the bathroom, we recommend a separate RCD due to high humidity.

Junction boxes and switches must not be placed in the bathroom. Allowed. For a damp room, you need to install a moisture-proof membrane on the internal mechanism of the outlet.

Marking is carried out along strictly horizontal and vertical lines. Power lines must not cross each other. The course must always be parallel to the wall. If the wiring is carried out under the floor, the route should be at a distance of 20 cm from the wall.

IMPORTANT! It is better to use copper wiring - it has a longer service life than aluminum.

The cross section of the wire (at least 2 mm2) is taken more than the calculated one. The latter is determined depending on the planned load on the network. Permissible current density for copper wire should not exceed 8A/mm2. For different distribution groups, a wire with a different cross section is required.

The wire passing through the cavities must be protected by pipes, sleeves or corrugations.

Pulling wiring with metal pipes and sleeves, PVC corrugation helps without disturbing the finish.

All wire connections must be in junction boxes only. They must be accessible so that something can be corrected. You can connect the wires using terminal blocks or soldering. try as well as alternative ways of connections.

Fix the wires and installation boxes for sockets and switches with plaster or plaster.

Outlets throughout the apartment should be at least 1 per 6 m2. In rooms that are rarely used, 1-2 is enough; in the kitchen, it is advisable to install several groups of 3-4 (depending on the number and placement of equipment).

The location of sockets and switches is not strictly regulated, but sockets must be located at a height of at least 30 cm from the floor for safety. Switches can be placed at any height convenient for an outstretched hand.

IMPORTANT! The best wiring equipment from the French company Legrand. For installation, you will need gloves for protection, a voltage indicator, a grinder, a hammer, a chisel for chasing, a puncher, screwdrivers, wire cutters.

You can use a wall chaser, with which two parallel strips are made in the wall. Then knock out a track with a puncher. usually carried out on plaster.

And if briefly. To carry out the installation of wiring in the apartment you need:

detailed diagrams;
automatic machines;
cable and copper wires of several sections;
plastic or metal distribution and installation boxes;
corrugations;
boxes or metal sleeves for laying wires;
screws;
dowels;
nails;
fasteners;
switches;
sockets.

Wiring in a wooden house

Installation is carried out according to the same principles as in the apartment. But the base in the log house is combustible, therefore it is always unsafe.

IMPORTANT! It is impossible to lead wires through PVC corrugations.

The installation is done:

From self-extinguishing wires and cables with good insulation (). We have written in detail before.
Hidden wiring - through electrical sewerage, which does not support combustion, that is, from metal: copper pipes, steel boxes with grounding. If you use plastic boxes and corrugations, they must be surrounded by a layer of non-combustible material - they must actually be embedded in the plaster.
With the use of metal nodes - distribution and installation boxes.
With ensuring the tightness of the connections, so that when closing, the electric arc does not go beyond the pipe and does not fall on combustible material.
The wood from which the walls and ceilings are made must be dry.

Another mandatory step is the installation of a differential relay or RCD.

IMPORTANT! Electrification work is carried out immediately in full before the installation of floors, ceilings and doors.

Algorithm:

we bring the cable into the house from a centralized power line or an external switchboard;
according to the scheme we make the wiring;
we mount the internal switchboard;
prepare holes for switches and sockets;
after completion of the finishing work, we install all the devices.

Today, in every home you can find a lot of household electrical appliances, but few people know how to properly wire electrical wiring in a private house. If you want to save money, then this knowledge will help in such painstaking work. Wiring is a rather time-consuming process, but nevertheless, even a novice electrician can do it. If you are ready to do it yourself and have the necessary on hand, or just want to control the hired electrician, we will go through the whole process step by step.

The sequence of work when wiring electricians in the house

Wiring in a private house is done before the start of finishing work. The box of the house has been kicked out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work.

Determining the type of input - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
Development of the scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that not always in the technical conditions they will determine the power you declared, most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
Selection of components and accessories, purchase of a meter, automatic machines, cables, etc.
Entering electricians from the pole into the house. It is carried out by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - air or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
Install a shield, bring electricity to the house.
inside the house, connecting sockets, switches.
Ground loop device and its connection.
and receipt of the act.
Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan, each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start with obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the power grid and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption.

It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take up to six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, for sure, you will be able to drive out the wall on which you can put the machine and the counter.

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for the electrification of the house. Take a house plan on a scale and draw where the equipment will stand, figure out where to place sockets and switches.

At the same time, it is necessary to take into account where what large-sized furniture will stand, and where it can be rearranged so that sockets and switches are not placed in these zones.

On the plan, you will need to put all the lighting fixtures: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on.

For example, the kitchen has a lot of appliances that work constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also a technique that turns on periodically. All this is applied to the plan, the optimal is determined. The same approach is in each of the rooms.

How to make wiring in the house with your own hands

Before starting work, read the Rules for Electrical Installations (PUE), which describes the basics of working with equipment.

free access to metering equipment, distribution boxes, sockets and switches is required.
they are mounted at a level of 60-150 cm from the floor; opening doors should not block access.
the cable is fed from above;
The installation height of sockets varies from 50 to 80 centimeters from the floor. For safety reasons, they cannot be placed less than 50 centimeters from electric and gas stoves, heating radiators, pipes.
The power supply is from below.
The number of sockets is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6 sq.m. This rule does not apply to the kitchen, here they put sockets according to the number of household appliances.
To power the bathroom, it is better to provide a separate transformer located outside this room (to lower the voltage).
the cable is laid with strict observance of the vertical and horizontal (without bends and diagonals, so as not to damage it during installation and perforation).
horizontal are laid at a distance of 5-10 centimeters from ceilings and cornices and 15 cm from the ceiling and floor. Vertically located cables are laid at least 10 cm from the edge of a door or window opening.
The distance to the gas pipes should not be less than 40 centimeters;
The wiring must not come into contact with metal building structures.
special boxes are used for wiring and connecting cables. Connections must be securely insulated. Forbidden .

Wiring diagram in a private house

All electrics in the house begin with the development of a detailed plan and diagram. The main thing in the diagram is to indicate the places for mounting devices and laying cables, it is also important to accurately determine the location of sockets, switches, lamps and household appliances. To simplify the wiring, consumers are divided into groups.

The grouping of consumers can be arbitrary. It simplifies the connection scheme, distributes the load and saves materials. The electrical wiring diagram of a house in a country house differs from the apartment one by the cable connection method: in a multi-storey building, it starts from the floor board.

Electricity in a private house requires connection from an air line or from an external distributor.

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch is bred electrician for lighting fixtures.

Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule, it may be more convenient or more expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement floor, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out as a separate group.

Then they are divided into groups of sockets. How much you can "plant" on one wire - depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more.

It is better to allocate a separate power line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable in terms of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you can have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - here the equipment is the most and most powerful too: for an electric boiler, an electric stove, separate lines are needed unconditionally. Refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, washing machine is also better to "plant" separately. Less powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

Usually two or four lines go to the rooms: in a modern dwelling and in any room there is something to plug into the power grid. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets in which you will need to turn on the computer, router, TV, phone charger.

All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you plan to install an air conditioner or will turn on an electric heater, you need separate lines.

If a private house is small, then there can be two or three groups in general: one for all lighting fixtures, the second for the street, and the third for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the number of pieces of electrical equipment in it.

By the number of groups received, the number in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you will need to turn on something new powerful, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc. .).

By the number of groups, the switchboard and the number of machines in it are selected: for each group there is a separate machine. If a private house is large, on several floors, then it makes sense to put more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Why do you need a wiring diagram

First of all, the scheme is necessary to compile a list of necessary consumables. That is, having a diagram at hand, the length of the wire, the cross section of the wire in individual sections, the required number of sockets and switches, junction boxes and their locations are calculated.

Also, a wiring diagram is necessary to determine the installation location and location of power wiring elements, such as: switchboard, metering devices (meters), input of power wires and cables.

Power in a private house, as a rule, comes through a 0.4 kV overhead line. A phase wire L and a combined zero protective and working PEN (single-phase power) come from the overhead line support to the introductory electrical panel.

Recently, energy supply organizations have been practicing installing metering devices on the street, in the introductory electrical panel (previously, meters were installed inside the house). Therefore, an electric meter and an introductory circuit breaker are installed in the introductory electrical panel (you can also install an introductory RCD of selective action).

From the introductory shield, the supply wire or cable is laid to the internal electrical panel located directly inside the house.

From this internal electrical panel, the power supply of the house begins. In order to make the power supply more reliable, consumers are divided into groups.

Lighting.
Rosette group.
Power group (boiler, washing machine, boiler).
Utility needs (outbuildings, garage, basement, etc.).

Separate protection devices (automatic devices, RCDs) are installed in the internal electrical panel for each consumer group.

Also, to draw up a wiring diagram in a private house, you must have a plan of the house itself. Knowing the drawing of the house plan, you can superficially display the wiring diagram.

The place of installation of the shield is not standardized by the regulations. There are only restrictions on the distance from the pipelines, it must be at least 1 meter away. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many put a shield in the boiler room: since the technical room, it is reasonable to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities make no claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no complaints.

Current strength determination

The planned load can be calculated using the formula: Current strength \u003d Total power of household appliances (W) / Mains voltage (V). For example: eight 60W lamps, 1600W electric kettle, 350W refrigerator, 1200W electric oven. Mains voltage 220 V.

Result: ((8*60) +1600+350+1200)/220=16.5A. Standard house consumption does not go beyond 25 amperes. Sizing An equally important task is to determine the cross-section of the cables that will be used for distributing electricity.

The safety of your home depends on the correct choice. Inconsistency of the cross section with the loads will cause overheating of the cable, which can cause a short circuit and a fire. You can determine the required cable size using the table.

Due to the fact that the table indicates extremely accurate values, and in fact there are frequent fluctuations in current strength, a certain sectional margin is needed. To determine the length of the cable, you need to measure all distances with a tape measure and add up to four meters in reserve.

Current- conductive lived, mm	Copper conductors of wires and cables
	Voltage 220V		Voltage 380V
	Current, A	power, kWt	Current, A	power, kWt
1,5	19	4,1	16	10,5
2,5	27	5,9	25	16,5
4	38	8,3	30	19,8
6	46	10,1	40	26,4
10	70	15,4	50	33
16	85	18,7	75	49,5
25	115	25,3	90	59,4
35	135	29,7	115	75,9
50	175	38,5	145	95,7
70	215	47,3	180	118,8
95	260	57,2	220	145,2
120	300	66	260	171,6

Selection of cables and accessories

The standard wiring diagram of a private house today includes two machines. One - input - is installed before the counter, usually on the street. It and the counter will be sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the shield.

The actuation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the automatic machine installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in case of emergency operation, you will not need to climb under the roof.

If the calculated load is less than 15 kW, the input machine is set to 25 A. The meter is selected accordingly. With a higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer, its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the mains, it is required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not legally confirmed by anything, it’s just that it’s easier for the electric service to control consumption.

If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a counter and an automatic machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - the protection class is not lower than IP-55. For installation inside a building, protection should be less - IP-44, and the price will be lower accordingly.

What wire to use for wiring in the house

And so, for the installation of electrical wiring, the owner of a private house needs to stock up on a certain amount of cable and electrical accessories (we will consider its types below). The cable can be copper or aluminum. Of course it must be insulated.

It is better to use a copper cable. The reason for this is that it has more bandwidth. This makes it possible to use a wire with a smaller cross section.

Also, the advantages of a copper cable include the fact that it can withstand a greater load than an electrical wire made of aluminum.

There is more to be said about this moment. A private house can be supplied with both single-phase and three-phase power. In the event that it will be necessary to supply current to single-phase devices, the cable must be three-core.

One core is phase, the other is neutral, the third is for grounding. In the case of laying a three-phase power supply, the cable must be five-core.

For wiring, both flat (it is convenient to mount under plaster) and round cables can be used. Their important characteristic is the cross section.

The choice of an electric wire with a certain cross section depends on the load level. So, if a wire is laid to the sockets, then this value should be at least 2.5 square meters. millimeters. Cables for powering lighting fixtures must have a cross section that is at least 1.5 square meters. millimeters.

In order not to miscalculate with the cross section of the electrical wire, you need to calculate the power of all possible devices that will be powered by a separate wire. Of course, you need to take into account some value as a margin.

After that, the total power must be divided by 220 (if one phase enters the house) or 380 volts (if there is a three-phase network). As a result, you will know the current strength that the cable must pass.

Based on this value, you can determine the desired cross section. To do this, you need to use special tables.

Necessary electrical accessories and requirements for it

mounting boxes;
sockets;
any kind of switches;
switches;
call buttons and other types.

Mounting boxes are used in any room and can be characterized by various shapes. So, their shape can be round, square or rectangular. The purpose of these boxes may be different.

Some of them are used to install sockets or switches. They are mounted under plaster and do not have a top cover. There are also boxes that are also installed under plaster, but have a lid. They are either distributive or end-to-end.

In addition to these, there are also external (outer) boxes. It should be noted that most of the boxes are not sealed. However, some are sealed.

Useful advice: in these boxes, various wires are often connected and divorced. To connect them, you need to use a distribution ring and. If you just twist the wires and use insulating tape, then such a connection will be unreliable. The result is sparks in the box. And this is at least.

As for sockets, now you need to use sockets with three poles. The third pole is a protective contact that is connected to the ground wire.

It is worth mentioning the fact that it is recommended to use double sockets. They will make it possible to reduce the number of doubles or tees.

Both sockets and switches may or may not be sealed. It is advisable to use sealed electrical fittings on the external walls of a private house, on a balcony, porch, etc.

So, materials should be stocked up before starting wiring inside and outside a private house.

If we talk about the principle of laying electrical wiring in a private house, then it is not much different from the same process within the walls of an apartment.

The main difference is that a private house can have several floors and, in addition to many household appliances, it can also use powerful electrical appliances that are part of heating systems, water supply, or are intended for some industrial purposes.

Another difference is getting current from different sources. A private house receives current from a local transformer or from a power line pole.

How to plan wiring

In order for the process of laying the wiring to be carried out very competently and at the same time the wiring served for a long time, it is necessary to conduct proper planning for its implementation. In other words, you need to draw a diagram.

This list should be compiled for each room and each ancillary building. When developing this list, it is worth considering that in the future the list of electrical appliances will only expand.

Given this, you need to decide where and how additional devices will be connected.

In the process of planning the placement of outlets, it is also worth deciding on the location of electrical appliances and other electrical "users" that will be used in the future.

That is, you need to decide where the chandeliers will be placed, where the TV will stand, and where the refrigerator and other devices will be placed.

It will not be superfluous to determine the connection points for those electrical installations that will be used outside the house, that is, in the yard or on a landscaped area.

When this work is done, they begin to draw up a wiring diagram that will be used in a private house. Drawing up such a scheme is very important. Thanks to it, it will be possible to determine all the required amount of materials.

At the same time, during installation, you will not forget to install some kind of outlet or run a certain cable. Another advantage of such a scheme is that in the future when carrying out repairs, you will know where all the electrical wires go.

This will eliminate any possibility of accidental damage to the cable during repair work.

What should be the layout

It is worth noting that drawing up a scheme has its secrets. These secrets concern the correct laying of cables and their wiring. Note how to properly wire the wiring.

So, electricity in a private house comes through an electric meter. After it, a switchboard is installed. It is from this shield that the wiring of various wires begins. Each of them can be called a contour.

The number of these circuits directly depends on the number of rooms in a private house and the electrical devices that are planned to be used. In a small private house there may be only two circuits.

One of them is assigned to sockets, the other to lighting fixtures.

Useful advice: when drawing up any wiring diagram, regardless of the size of a private house, there should always be a separate wiring for lighting and a separate wiring for sockets.

The reason for this is that lighting fixtures and appliances connected to outlets have different power ratings. As a result, light fixtures require thinner wires than refrigerators, microwave ovens, or any other electrical device.

In fact, this advice can be called mandatory. This will save on the purchase of cables. Otherwise, that is, if you connect both sockets and lamps to the same wiring, then if the cable burns out or shorts out, you will not be able to use any device or lamp that is connected to this wire.

It should be borne in mind that it is better to organize such a wiring scheme that will provide for the wiring of more circuits than a private house requires. This will reduce stress on the wires and eliminate the need for additional wiring in the future.

A mandatory rule is to equip each circuit with a circuit breaker. A group of circuits must also be connected to a differential relay (RCD). Both the switch and the RCD are mounted in the switchboard.

When drawing up a diagram, one more nuance needs to be taken into account: there are electrical appliances that have a lot of power (a water pump or an electric stove). For them, you need to use a cable with a large cross section. Of course, this cable will be a separate circuit.

If a private house consists of several floors, then electricity for each floor should be supplied through a separate wiring. Experts recommend connecting rooms separately.

Here it is worth paying attention to the fact that the requirements for laying electrical wiring in some rooms are more stringent. The list of these rooms includes those that are characterized by the constant presence of water and the presence of a high level of humidity. An example is a bathroom, toilet or laundry room.

The main requirement for these rooms is the removal of all switches outside of them. That is, switches cannot be mounted in the middle of them. Compliance with this requirement will increase the level of security.

As for other rooms, switches can be used in them. It is desirable that they be at a height of 90-140 centimeters. In this case, the distance between the wooden door frame and the switch should be 15 centimeters.

The switch must be on the side of the door where the handle is located. The circuit must also include a ground loop.

After you have made the wiring diagram, you can begin to install each wire and all electrical accessories. One of the main processes is wiring. It can be carried out in various ways.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house

At the second stage, we ditch the walls, if hidden wiring is necessary, or we mount it in an open way. Holes for equipment are made with a puncher using a crown nozzle.

Using a wall chaser (a tool with two parallel diamond discs) or a puncher, they make cable grooves about 20 mm deep, where the wires should fit comfortably in width.

Now you can proceed directly to the installation. First you need to install the SCHO, inside which the RCD is connected. Ready for connection, the ShchO has zero terminals on top, grounding terminals on the bottom, and automatic machines between them.

To connect the input cable to the ASC, the blue wire is attached to zero, and to the upper contact (to the phase) of the RCD - white, to ground - yellow with a green stripe (colors may vary depending on the manufacturer).

The machines are connected in series from above with a white wire jumper or a special factory-made copper bus. Now you can wire up.

Open mounting option

Installation of open wiring is carried out in the following sequence: According to the marked marks, we fix the boxes or cable channels. Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws, 5 - 10 cm from the edges in increments of 50 centimeters. We mount distribution boxes, sockets and switches.

Since they are hung on the walls, we apply them to the location, mark the fastening points, drill and fix. We lay the cable from sockets to the SC, starting from the connection points using VVG - 3 * 2.5 wires. From lamps and switches to the distribution box we conduct VVG - 3 * 1.5 cable.

The cores of the wires in the junction boxes are connected by color with clamps (PPE caps) or using WAGO type quick connection terminals. VVG cable 3 * 2.5 in SCHO is attached with a phase (brown or red wire) to the RCD, zero (blue) is attached at the top, grounding (yellow wiring with a green stripe) - at the bottom.

Now the finished circuit is “called” by the tester. If all is well, then we invite an electrician.

Flush wiring

Socket boxes and junction boxes are installed in the niches made. Upon completion of all work, the strobes are sealed with plaster; gypsum putty can be used to seal the wiring.

Using installation boxes

If we talk about open wiring of electrical communications inside a private house, then it is advisable to use installation boxes for its installation.

These boxes have a fairly aesthetic appearance and are used for installing the electrical network after the owner has completed the decoration and painting of the walls. Thanks to them, you can change the wiring without destroying the plaster walls.

Such boxes can be mounted along the ceiling, floor or door frame. They may have one, two or more channels. Of course, each of these channels can be used for laying different cables.

The material from which the installation boxes are made is either plastic or aluminum. The inside of the aluminum box is covered with plastic.

The underside is perforated. It is worth noting that the use of these boxes is very advantageous because they can be easily cut and bent. This makes it possible to customize them to any room size.

These boxes may vary in size. Very large boxes are desirable to use in cases where wiring is used to power various types of equipment.

In order for them not to stand out against the background of the interior, you can choose a trim or cover that has a color that matches the design. Sockets are installed above these boxes.

It should be borne in mind that each outlet that is installed with exposed wiring must have a fully protective housing. This socket is mounted directly on the wall. The same are the requirements for switches that will be used in the case of open wiring.

Quite often, private houses have rooms with a large area. And in the event that there is a need to place several electrical appliances at a certain distance from the wall and the owner does not want to run the cable across the floor, a floor box can be built into the floor. Of course, the cable will go already under the floor.

Using a floor box will eliminate the presence of loose wires that can fall on the floor and create obstacles during movement. Such boxes are mounted in the floor and are at the same level as the floor.

In this case, the lid of the box can be designed in the style of the floor. As a result, the floor box will not be an obstacle and will not become a thing that spoils the design. At the same time, it is characterized by tightness, which does not create any risks during wet cleaning.

After all the installation work has been done, the wiring must be checked. This process should not be limited to simply turning on the lamp and checking if it glows.

You need to determine whether all the elements that are provided for in the diagram are installed, whether RCDs and circuit breakers work, how good the ground connection is. You should also check the reliability of fastening switches, sockets and other elements.

A large percentage of wiring problems stem from poor wire connections.

Twisting.

Only homogeneous metals, or those that do not enter into a chemical reaction, can combine in this way. It is impossible to twist copper and aluminum categorically. In other cases, the length of the bare conductors must be at least 40 mm. Two wires are connected to each other as tightly as possible, the turns are stacked one next to the other.

From above, the connection is wrapped with electrical tape and / or packed with a heat shrink tube. If you want the contact to be 100%, and the losses to be minimal, do not be too lazy to solder the twist. In general, according to modern standards, this type of wire connection is considered unreliable.

Connection via terminal box with screw terminals.

Metal terminals are soldered in the case made of heat-resistant plastic, which are tightened with screws. The conductor, stripped of insulation, is inserted into the socket, fixed with a screw, using a screwdriver. This type of connection is the most reliable.

Connecting blocks with springs.

In these devices, contact is provided by a spring. A bare conductor is inserted into the socket, which is clamped by a spring.

And still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, we can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Do-it-yourself installation of electrical wiring in a house requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the point of connection of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires ring among themselves, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged somewhere.

If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Having connected, they check it again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to immediately sign the machine: it will be easier to navigate.

Having finished the electrical wiring throughout the house, having checked everything on their own, they call the specialists of the electrical laboratory. They check the condition of conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and give you a test report (protocol) based on the results. Without it, you will not be given a commissioning permit.

indicator screwdriver;
tester;
perforator;
hammer;
pliers;
screwdrivers;
wall chaser;
insulating tape.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house must take place with the obligatory consideration of the requirements for the location of switches and sockets. Inside rooms with high humidity (bathroom, sauna) it is forbidden to use plug sockets and install switches.

Shaver sockets can only be connected to the mains via a transformer.

Installation of electrical wiring in a wooden house

Installation of an electric cable in a private house will require special security measures, especially if the house is wooden. Wiring in such a dwelling is made taking into account the following requirements: Self-extinguishing wires and cables with excellent insulation are used. Distribution and installation boxes must be metal.

All connections are sealed. Exposed wiring should not come into contact with walls and ceilings. It can be mounted using porcelain insulators. Hidden wiring is carried out through metal (copper) pipes, steel boxes without fail with grounding.

When using plastic corrugations and boxes, they are mounted in plaster. This type of installation is safer and looks more aesthetically pleasing. An additional step to improve the safety of a wooden dwelling is the installation of an RCD (differential relay) that reacts to current leakage and short circuit by turning off the machine.

Installation of electrical wiring in a private house price

We offer users a table of average prices on the market:

Type of service	Description	Price, rub)
Electrical panel installation	1 piece	3000-7000
Installation of the machine	1 piece	500-700
Laying electrical wiring in a wooden house	for 1 sq.m. floor space	650-800
Installation of electrical wiring in a brick private house without gating		1000-1300
Installation of electrical wiring in a brick private house with chasing	for 1 sq.m. floor space	1400-1600
Installing a socket, switch	1 piece	850-1150
Mounting the junction box in a recess	1 piece	850-1100
Installation of the overhead junction box	1 piece	400-600

It must be understood that the installation of electrical wiring in a private house is a little more expensive than in an apartment. All prices do not include the cost of materials. In addition, the call of the master to draw up an estimate, and the development of an electrician project at home, are also calculated separately.

Outcome

Each master can make mistakes, so even if you entrusted the work to a specialist and paid for the service, monitoring his actions will help to avoid further problems. When accepting work, you will be able to appreciate the quality and you will know what you pay for.

Modern life is unthinkable without electricity, so sooner or later you have to face problems. Replacing electrical wiring or laying a new one is a serious test for a person who is ignorant of electrics. However, if you have basic knowledge in the field of electrical engineering, armed with the recommendations outlined below, you can easily do this work yourself.

How to properly wire?

Installation of electrical wiring

Installation of electrical wiring in the house should not be spontaneous. All activities are planned and subject to the general Rules for the installation of electrical installations. Such an organization of work will not only simplify their implementation, but also ensure safety.

Basic requirements governing the wiring device:

easy access to all devices and wiring elements should be provided;
switches are located at a level of 0.6-1.5 m relative to the floor. They are placed so that the open door is not an obstacle to access to them. The laying of the wiring that feeds the device is carried out from above;
the height of the outlets should be in the range of 0.5-0.8 m. This is due to ensuring safety in case of flooding. The distance from stoves, regardless of the energy source, heating appliances and other grounded devices must be at least 0.5 m. Wiring is from below;
with the exception of the kitchen, one socket should fall on 6 sq.m. It is forbidden to place sockets in the toilet room;
internal and external wiring is carried out exclusively in the vertical and horizontal directions. The general scheme should reflect their direction;
wiring should be carried out at a distance from pipelines, ceilings and other elements of the room;
contact of wiring with metal structures of the house is not allowed;
parallel wires are located at a distance of at least 3 mm, or boxes or corrugated pipes are used to accommodate them;
wiring and conductor connections are placed in boxes. Connection points must be isolated. Wires made of different materials, copper and aluminum, cannot be connected;
a bolted connection is used to fix ground and zero.

Charting

Laying electrical wiring requires the creation of a project and the development of a wiring diagram. The absence of a clearly formulated plan will make its installation extremely difficult.

If you have general concepts in the field of electrical engineering and knowledge of the safe conduct of electrical work, there will be no difficulties in doing the wiring yourself. Using generally accepted conventions, a drawing of the apartment is drawn up indicating the place of installation of electrical appliances. In this case, it is necessary to determine the type and number of household appliances and other consumers of electricity.

Scheme

Next, the diagram shows the wiring of the supply wires. At this stage, the type of connection of electrical appliances is determined: parallel, serial or mixed. From the point of view of material consumption, the latter is preferable. It is recommended to group all devices according to their location, which will simplify the process of laying wires and reduce the need for them.

Wiring for sockets can be made under the floor, and for lighting - in floor slabs. Such options do not provide for wall chasing.

The project can be confirmed by calculations, during which the maximum value of the current in the circuit is determined. Practical data say that this value in houses or apartments does not reach 25 A. In accordance with this circumstance, materials are selected, in particular the cross section of the conductors.

To determine the need for cable and wire products, it is necessary to make measurements directly on the spot. A margin of 3-4 m should be added to the resulting length.

In the switchboard, all wires are connected through circuit breakers. The location of the shield is at the entrance. In the presence of an electric stove, an additional individual machine is required.

The next step is to count the number of outlets and determine the need for distribution boxes. The previously drawn up diagram will help with this, since everything is indicated on it. When installing electrical wiring, you cannot do without electrical tape and PPE caps necessary for connecting the wiring. You may also need pipes, boxes and sockets.

The diagram shows all the details

Wiring: step by step instructions

Arranging electrical wiring in the house is within the power of one person, while it is important to follow the rules for safe electrical work. Choosing the right tool will make the job easier. In addition to a set of screwdrivers, pliers and a tester, you will need a puncher and a level.

When replacing old hidden-type wiring in a room, it is necessary to use a special sensor that will allow you to determine its location. Having found out this, the old wires are eliminated.

Wall marking

Having completed all the preparatory activities, proceed to the markup. With a marker or pencil, marks are applied on the walls along which the wiring will be located. In this case, you must follow the rules described earlier.

After that, the locations of sockets, lighting devices, switches and a shield are marked. In the houses of the old building, the shield is mounted on the wall, modern projects provide for a niche.

wall chasing

Hidden wiring is made by laying wires in strobes, and electrical appliances are mounted in special holes. To create such holes, a puncher equipped with an appropriate nozzle is used.

wall chasing

Shtrobleniye is carried out by a grinder or a perforator. You should be prepared for the fact that during this work dust and debris are generated. The dimensions of the strobe are: width - about 20 mm, the width should allow free placement of wires.

You can arrange wiring on the ceiling in various ways. One of them involves the construction of a stretch or suspended ceiling. In this case, an overlap is used to fix the wires. When using another method, a strobe is performed with a slight depth. The wiring is completely hidden in the ceiling when using the third option. To lay it, you should use the internal voids that are provided in the production of floor slabs. And then it remains only to make two holes and bring the wire inside.

After the creation of the strobes is completed, they begin to lay the wire in it. In order to be able to bring wires into the room, through holes are punched with a puncher. It is desirable to do them in the corners of the rooms. The organization of holes for laying wires from the distribution panel to the lighting panel is required. After completing these works, everything is ready for the installation of the wire.

Route laying

open wiring

The lighting panel is mounted in a niche, if it is provided, or by hanging on the wall. An RCD is installed in it in an amount corresponding to the number of consumer groups. When assembled, the structure has zero terminals at the top, ground terminals at the bottom, and automatic switches are located between them.

Wires of the selected section are brought inside. When connecting them, it is necessary to take into account the color marking of each core. The blue core is connected to the zero phase; white - to the upper contact of the RCD; yellow with a green stripe - to ground. The machines are connected in series.

Route laying

Open wiring begins with fixing the boxes along the marking lines. When constructing such a wiring, electrical boxes are often shifted to the plinth area or placed at a maximum height under the ceiling. They are fastened with self-tapping screws, the interval between which is 500 mm. The distance from the edges of the holes is 50-100 mm. After drilling them with a puncher, dowels are hammered in and screws are screwed in, which fix the channel.

An open type of wiring involves hanging all electrical appliances. Therefore, after laying the route, their installation follows, for which the places where the mounting holes are made are marked.
First, the wiring of the main trunk line is done. Further, it is conducted from the sockets to the lighting panel. Experts recommend moving from the connection point to the shield and at the same time leaving a mark or label indicating the purpose of the wires. Then they lead the wiring from the switches and lamps to the junction boxes, in which the electrical conductors are connected using PPE or insulating tape.

The connection in the shield is as follows: the brown or red core is connected to the phase terminal, which is located at the top of the RCD, the blue one to zero, and the yellow one with a green stripe to ground. In order to prevent a mistake, the tester calls the wire connections. Only after you have verified the correct installation of the electrical circuit, is it allowed to connect to the switchboard.

Hidden wiring

Installation of concealed wiring does not differ significantly from an open device. The main difference is the removal of wires from view. Wiring begins with the installation of a lighting panel and circuit breakers. Then they start the lead-in cable, but do not connect it. Installation of boxes and socket boxes takes place in previously prepared recesses.

Hidden wiring

The wiring originates from the main line. If provided by the project, then the wires are laid in the floor. For this, pipes or corrugations are used in which the wire will be located. They lead to the places where the sockets are located. Next, the wire to the socket is laid in the strobe.

Shield

Then they proceed to conduct electrical wires from switches and lighting fixtures to junction boxes, in which they are connected to the main line. Isolation of connections is carried out using PPE or electrical tape.

The final stage of laying electrical wiring in the house is the continuity of the circuit. If the circuit test gave a positive result, then a connection is made to the lighting panel.
To seal the strobes, gypsum putty is used. The connection of the electrical circuit in the house with a switchboard is carried out by a certified specialist.

Do-it-yourself wiring in case of neglecting the basic rules for safe electrical work often leads to electric shock.

Before starting work, be sure to turn off the power supply. It is also necessary to take measures to prevent spontaneous or erroneous supply of electricity.

When dismantling elements of old wiring, you should be extremely careful. This measure is explained by the likelihood of third-party wiring that is not de-energized.

Before applying voltage, it is necessary to warn people in the house.

It is not allowed to wear metal jewelry and other metal objects while working with electrical wiring.