During the second growing season, leaves are affected, sometimes annual shoots. The appearance of black spots is associated with meteorological conditions and varietal characteristics.
How to recognize a disease
Symptoms of marsonnina, or black spot:
Purple, purple or white spots appear on top of the leaves of plants;
- over time, black spots appear, ranging in size from 50 to 150 mm.
The shape, size and location of the spots also depend on the variety.
Fungus begins to develop on the spots immediately. It resembles black pads. The leaves on which they appeared turn yellow and fall off. This leads to the death of the plant.
The rose almost stops blooming. Usually, the affected plants can rarely survive the winter - they freeze out.
How to deal with black spot
The source of the appearance of this disease is the affected fallen leaves and shoots that have remained from last year.
Therefore, in order to avoid the development of the disease of other plants, it is necessary to collect the fallen leaves and burn them. If spotting appears on new shoots, they must be cut off immediately.
Do not be lazy, covering shrubs for the winter. To prevent black spots from appearing on the leaves of roses, take care of eliminating the sources of the fungus:
- Collect and burn the spotted leaves from the plants;
- Dig up the soil around the roses;
- Treat the plants with a fungicide.
It is best not to forget about ongoing prevention. It is necessary to spray the bushes with infusions of mullein or horsetail.
You can also take drugs that increase the resistance of plants to diseases. It can be zircon, immunodeficiency, "El", "Oberig". It is very effective to alternate spraying with preparations containing mancozeb and triazole.
Spraying can be carried out once a week, and alternate preparations no more than three times. The effect of such plant treatment is very positive.
There is another way to get rid of stains - it will appeal to opponents of various drugs. A shovel can help fight black spot.
If you plant a plant correctly and properly care for it, then this disease is unlikely to strike him.
If you want to protect your roses from spotting, then carry out the following manipulations:
- place them more freely;
- transplant to the sunniest place;
- remove the density;
- Remove fallen leaves in a timely manner.
Mandatory treatment with copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid or similar preparations in spring and autumn.
If the disease still touches the plants, in the fall, make a strong pruning of the bush. Cut off shoots at 2/3 of the bud from the base.
All this is guaranteed to reduce the damage to your favorite roses by harmful diseases.
Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew in the photo
With a fungal disease of roses, powdery mildew appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; there is a thickening and curvature of them.
As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on roses manifests itself as a whitish bloom, which represents the mycelium and sporulation of the fungus:
Powdery mildew on roses 
Powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish bloom (photo)
The causative agent of the disease in the form of mycelium in the kidneys overwinters. The development of the disease is facilitated by excess nitrogen fertilization, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold damp soils.
The disease develops especially strongly with insufficient lighting and high humidity. A sharp change in temperature, drafts, drying out of the earth and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants, reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and hybrid tea roses with more delicate foliage are especially affected.
Resistant to powdery mildew are varieties of roses that have dense glossy leaves such as "Gloria Day".
For the treatment of powdery mildew on roses, when the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with Topaz, Purest flowers, Fundazol or Skorom. At temperatures above 22 ° C, spraying with "Gray Colloid" or "Tiovit Jet" is possible. If necessary, to combat this disease of roses, the treatments are repeated as young growth and powdery mildew spots appear on them.
Rust of roses in the photo
With this disease of roses in flowers, the affected parts of the shoots are bent and thickened. In the spring, orange dust appears on the stems at the opening buds and at the root collar. These are spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in plant tissues infected in previous years. The disease develops more intensely in years with warm and humid springs.
Rust fungi not only take away nutrients from the plant, but also greatly disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and impair metabolism.
In case of rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer forms small, red-yellow pads of summer spores, which can give several generations and infect new plants.
In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small rounded black pads.
Look at the photo - if this rose disease strongly affected the plant, the leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely:
Affected parts of rose shoots (photo) 
In case of rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in summer forms small, red-yellow pads of summer spores (photo)
The spread of spores of a rust fungus occurs with the flow of air, water, and planting material.
To protect roses from this disease, unilateral nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in early spring (before bud break), spray the plants and the soil around them with iron vitriol (1-1.5%). The soil under the bushes should be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.
For the treatment of rose rust, it is necessary to carefully and timely cut off the shoots affected by the stem form of rust, from the moment the buds bloom, spray the plants again with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or its substitutes ("Oxyhom", "Abiga-Peak", "Hom", " Copper oxychloride "," Ordan ").
Rose leaf disease black spot in the photo
Disease of roses black spot is also called marsonina after the name of the fungus - the causative agent of the disease. In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black spots of various sizes form on the leaves. The leaves turn brown and often fall off prematurely. Spots can also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.
Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes start to grow again, as a result of which they become very weak and bloom poorly the next year.
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus, the causative agent of the disease of roses, develops spotting, forming radiantly growing strands.
As you can see in the photo, with this disease of roses, the radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots:
With this disease of roses, the radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots (photo) 
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of the disease of roses, spotting (photo)
This disease of the leaves of roses is more pronounced when the planting is thickened, in shaded places, with poor ventilation of the site.
Measures to combat this disease include:
- correct agricultural practices that increase plant resistance;
- careful collection and autumn of affected leaves and burning them;
- spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust.
- for the treatment of this disease of roses, it is recommended to use a special preparation (Skor to protect roses) for spraying, which is a systemic fungicide of prophylactic and curative action.
Treatments must be started at the first signs of the disease and repeated after each rain or abundant growth.
These photos show how to treat black spot rose disease:
Disease bacterial cancer roses in the photo
With bacterial cancer of roses, growths of various sizes are formed on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter. The growths have an uneven lumpy surface. They consist of soft tissue, at first white, then brown and in the soil are decomposed by bacteria.
There are also hard lignified growths that grow every year. Less often, the aboveground part is affected - trunks and branches, mainly in climbing and standard remontant roses. Here, lumpy nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.
The cancer-causing bacteria infect many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on the roots of plants, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.
The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilization, root damage, and an alkaline soil reaction.
When transplanting a plant with an affected root collar, it is necessary to destroy, and cut off the growths on the lateral roots. For the treatment of this disease of roses, after pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in a liquid mixture of clay and sand. Avoid excessive manure fertilization, destroy root-damaging insects, and do not dig up the soil near bushes.
Look at the photo of rose cancer treatment:
Fungal disease burn of the branches of roses in the photo
Branch burn is a fungal disease in which, on the branches, first reddish spots appear, later darkening in the middle; the reddish-brown edging persists for a long time. Growing up, the spots ring the branches. Above the affected area, tissue deposits may form. Diseased branches usually dry out in late summer.
The development of "burns" is facilitated by excess moisture under the winter shelter.
To avoid severe damage to roses, you should remove the shelter earlier in the spring. Sick and frozen branches must be cut and burned in a timely manner.
As shown in the photo, when treating this disease of roses, plants need to be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust:
Correct agricultural technology (timely fertilization, loosening and watering) helps to reduce the harmfulness of the disease. It is necessary to achieve good maturation of wood until the end of the growing season of plants.
For the winter, plants with already fallen leaves should be covered, if possible, in dry weather, so that high humidity is not created under the shelter. Before the shelter, unripe shoots with green leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease of roses in the photo
Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that is ubiquitous. Roses are struck by a number of ornamental shrubs, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, and nuts.
Cytosporosis is also called infectious desiccation. In some years, it leads not only to the drying out of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. Bushes that are weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible to this disease.
First, the causative agent of the disease settles in the dying off separate areas of the cortex. On the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe affected bark, large, well-visible orange-red pycnidial tubercles of the fungus appear, protruding from under the skin.
Look at the photo - with this disease of roses, cracks form on the border of the affected and healthy tissue:
The causative agent of the disease moves first upward through the tissues and blood vessels of plants, and after the branches dry up - downward, killing the cells adjacent to the zone of its distribution with its toxins.
The disease with cytosporosis should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with the general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first of all necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage.
Also, regularly carry out activities that increase the viability of plants - timely and correct pruning, fertilization, soil cultivation, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches with signs of disease with the capture of up to 5 cm of a healthy part of the branch.
Early spring spraying of roses with a 1.5% solution of copper sulfate on the "sleeping" buds and 3% Bordeaux liquid on a green cone to some extent inhibits the spread and development of the disease.
Carrying out pruning of bushes at the optimal time protects roses from cytosporosis.
Gray rot on roses (photo)
Mainly buds with pedicels, tops of young stems and leaves suffer from gray rot of roses (botrytis) - in wet weather they are covered with a gray fluffy coating.
First of all, this disease of garden roses attacks weakened plants, and most often - with white and light pink flowers. The buds on roses affected by Botrytis do not open, they rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.
The foci of infection persist in plant debris in the form of mycelium, which forms spores in spring. Then the spores of the fungi are carried by insects and wind. Therefore, an undesirable "neighbor" for roses is, for example, garden strawberries, which are very susceptible to Botrytis.
Gray rot appears on roses with thickened plantings, or if the rose garden is irrigated late in the evening, when the leaves of the roses do not have time to dry before nightfall.
How to deal with gray mold of roses on a personal plot? Measures to control and prevent this disease of roses are the same as against other fungal diseases.
Interesting facts about rose diseases
Speaking about diseases of roses, there are several interesting facts:
- You can determine how resistant roses are to diseases by the leaves: if they are dense and shiny, covered with a waxy bloom, the variety is resistant. The fact is that wax prevents the penetration of infection into the leaf, which means it prevents infection.
- There are no varieties that are absolutely resistant to disease. Even those varieties that are marked "disease-resistant" in the catalogs lose this valuable quality in 5-6 years, since diseases adapt to changing conditions and mutate like the flu. Therefore, old varieties of roses can be found only in amateur gardens, but not in flower farms and on city streets.
- Gray rot, for example, multiplies especially quickly in damp weather, and given that many gardeners plant roses densely, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering.
- Foliage that does not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor black spotting. Powdery mildew, and of the pests - spider mites, on the contrary, love dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing near southern walls or fences are especially affected by these harmful organisms.
- Florists can, to some extent, influence the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, as well as predict their appearance. Strong, well-groomed plants are less likely to get sick and are less likely to resist colonization by pests.
Watch the video "Diseases of roses", which shows all the main diseases of plants and methods of dealing with them:
How to treat roses for diseases: effective remedies
Without exception, all flower growers are interested in how to treat roses from diseases. The most effective remedies for rose diseases include the following drugs.
"Alirin-B" - a biological preparation based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources. It is effective against powdery mildew of ornamental and other plants.
"Glyocladin" - an analogue of the well-known drug "Trichodermin". It is effective against a wide range of fungal diseases such as fusarium, white and gray rot, late blight, root and stem rot, black leg and cabbage keel.
"Gamair" - a preparation designed to protect against a wide range of bacterial diseases: bacterial leaf spots, fire blight, bacterial cancer.
"Topaz" - systemic fungicide to protect ornamental, pome, stone fruit, berry, vegetable crops and vines from powdery mildew. This preparation for the treatment of roses against diseases can be used as a protective, therapeutic and exterminating agent also against rust. The drug is available in the form of an emulsion concentrate.
As a destructive agent with a high degree of damage by powdery mildew, "Topaz" is used in increased concentrations (up to 10 ml), after 2 sprays with an interval of 7 days.
The drug provides reliable protection against powdery mildew, even against a high infectious background. Topaz is non-phytotoxic and does not stain treated leaves and fruits. As a prophylactic agent, it reduces the number of treatments, as it lasts for 40 days. The drug meets modern safety requirements for humans and the environment. It is quickly absorbed by plants, which reduces the risk of the preparation being washed off by rain.
In order to avoid the emergence of resistance of pathogens of powdery mildew, "Topaz" is recommended to alternate with contact copper-containing preparations and sulfur colloidal and not to be used on the same culture more than 4 times per season.
"Topaz" compatible with most of the drugs used in gardens for diseases and pests. The exposure rate is 2-3 hours after spraying.
And how else to process roses from diseases and to prevent infections on the backyard?
"Pure color" - a new drug for the protection of flower and ornamental crops from diseases (fungicide).
Method of application: the required rate of the drug in a special container is dissolved in a small volume of water. Then, with constant stirring, the volume of the working solution is brought to 5 or 10 liters. The working fluid is prepared immediately before use and used completely on the same day. The deadline for the safe exit of people for manual work is after 7 days. The rate of action of the drug: 2 hours after treatment.
The period of protective action: with preventive treatments - 7-15 days, in conditions of intensive development of diseases - 7 days.
The therapeutic effect of the drug: within 4 days from the moment of infection. It is not recommended for amateur gardeners to mix this drug with other remedies when spraying plants.
"Pure color" is an analog of the drug "Raek".
Fundazol - a systemic preparation and seed dressing agent for protection against a complex of diseases.
When using the drug, fill the container for etching the planting material with 1/3 of water, then add the required amount of the drug, mix thoroughly and add the remaining amount of water.
Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10:00) or in the evening (18-22 hours), evenly wetting the leaves. The working solution cannot be stored!
"Fast to protect roses" from black spot, ornamental and fruit crops from a complex of diseases. It is a systemic fungicide of preventive and curative action. The contents of the ampoule must be diluted in water.
Spray with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, evenly wetting the plants.
Working fluid consumption: on a rose - up to 1 liter per plant; on flower plants and ornamental shrubs - up to 10 liters per 100 m2.
Do not store working solution! Exit time for Handicrafts: 3 days. Compatibility with other pesticides is impractical. The period of protective action is 7-14 days. Exposure time: two hours after treatment. Not phytotoxic. The cultures are tolerant to the drug. No resistance occurs. Low hazard for bees (class 3). Toxic to fish, do not enter water bodies.
"Copper oxychloride"(wettable powder) - one of the copper-containing preparations for the fight against diseases of vegetable and fruit crops.
When using the contents of the package (40 g), dilute with 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 am) or in the evening (18-22 hours), evenly wetting the leaves. In recommended doses, the drug is not phytotoxic. The period of protective action is 7-10 days.
The drug is dangerous for bees and fish, do not carry out processing during flowering. Do not allow to enter water bodies.
These photos show effective remedies for the treatment of rose diseases:
How to spray roses for diseases: the best drugs
Not sure how to spray roses against diseases to protect flowers? Then use the following drugs, considered one of the best.
"Abiga Peak" is a copper-containing contact fungicide designed to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases on vegetables, fruit, ornamental and flower crops, grapevine and medicinal plants.
Apply the drug during the growing season by spraying plants.
A 50 g package is designed to prepare 10 liters of working solution for processing 100 m2.
The contents of the vial are preliminarily dissolved in 1 liter of water and, with thorough stirring, brought up to 10 liters with water - a working solution for spraying is obtained.
Spraying is carried out prophylactically or when the first signs of the disease appear. The plants are treated by evenly covering the shoots, leaves and fruits with a working solution.
Attention! All solutions should be prepared in plastic, glass or enamel containers.
This preparation against rose diseases provides reliable protection of plants against diseases even in adverse weather conditions. The composition of the preparation includes an adhesive that allows the active substance "Abiga-Peak" to firmly adhere to the treated plant surface.
Very important! Abiga-Peak is compatible with almost all known modern insecticides and fungicides. Convenient to use, non-toxic. The preparation does not produce dust when preparing the working solution. Prepared, but due to weather conditions, not consumed solution can be stored for a long time.
"Abiga Peak" has a beneficial effect on the quality of the grown products. When applied, there is a good maturation of young shoots.
The best remedies for combating rose diseases are shown in the photo:
"Tiovit Jet" - a means for combating diseases of flower and fruit crops.
Method of application: the rate of the preparation, dissolve in a small amount of water, then, gradually stirring, add water to 10 liters. Treat with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves.
"Tiovit" possesses good adhesion, has a contact effect and an active gas phase; practically non-toxic to birds, bees, fish.
The advantages of the drug are that it is simultaneously a fungicide, and an acaricide, and a trace element; provides reliable protection of plants for 7-10 days; can be used for preventive spraying, has good compatibility with other pesticides.
"Colloidal sulfur" It is mainly used to control powdery mildew and various types of herbivorous mites on flower crops. It is effective only at air temperatures above +20 ... + 22 ° С, since sulfur vapors work.
Mode of application. When preparing the working fluid, the drug is first stirred in a small amount of warm water until creamy, and then water is added, mixing the composition well (it is better to soak the drug the day before, 2-5 hours before processing).
The last processing time before harvest is 3 days.
The drug is not dangerous for humans and warm-blooded animals. Colloidal sulfur, as a rule, does not burn the leaves.
However, many gooseberry varieties shed their leaves after processing. Therefore, you should not use sulfur to combat American gooseberry powdery mildew and spray roses near this shrub.
Remember! Before treating rose diseases, you must carefully read the instructions for using a particular drug.
More often weakened or improperly planted plants suffer... In addition, neglect of caregiving will inevitably lead to disease and developmental problems.
For good growth, beautiful flowering, roses need constant attention from the gardener. Preventive examinations, the ability to immediately identify the first warning signs make it possible to quickly prevent almost any ailment.
Quite often, the "queen of the flower garden" is sick because of:
- weather conditions (for example, high humidity or prolonged heat);
- poor lighting, insufficient air access;
- tightness in the rose garden;
- mechanical damage to stems, root collar.
The greatest damage is caused by infectious diseases, the causative agents of which are fungi, viruses, and bacteria. But there are also functional diseases: they appear when there is a lack of any element in the soil.
What do roses hurt?
Powdery mildew
In summer, roses often have mealy spots of whitish-gray bloom, which later acquire a grayish-brown color. Buds and shoots die off, leaves curl. This is how powdery mildew manifests itself: its pathogen is Sphaerotheca pannosa... The fungus hibernates on stems and plant debris. The appearance of plaque is a sure sign that the flower is overfed with nitrogen fertilizers, but it is deficient in potassium.
In addition, it is not recommended to carry out sprinkling irrigation in the evening: such procedures are more useful in the morning or afternoon. Bushes planted in a dense pattern, and even in a poorly lit place, are more susceptible to attacks by pathogens. Powdery mildew is easier to prevent, because then you will have to fight it for several seasons.
So what to do:
- in order to prevent the rose garden, including the ground around, is pollinated with ash, and also sprayed once a week with an infusion of mullein in the usual proportion of 1:10;
- affected branches, buds are cut to a healthy place and burned. Three times every ten days, plantings, the soil are treated with Bordeaux liquid (usually 1%);
- from systemic fungicides for spraying are suitable Topaz, Skor, Vectra.
Gray rot
Fungus spores Botrytis cinerea suppress the growth point of young shoots, affect the buds and buds, which rot without even opening. On the petals, you can see characteristic brown sores, the leaves turn yellow. Damp weather encourages the development of a gray, fluffy bloom on the stems.
The fungus is activated by thickened plantings, high humidity, and also due to a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil. Multi-petal varieties, mainly white, cream, yellow, are strongly affected by gray rot.
What to do:
- a pink solution of potassium permanganate is the best prophylactic agent: it can be sprayed or watered with bushes;
- cut out infected parts and remove from the site;
- try to create the maximum possible dryness in the rose garden, feed with phosphorus and calcium 2: 1;
- effective spraying with drugs Vectra, Fundazol, iron vitriol.
Black spot
Fungus infestation Marssonina rosae occurs in late spring, and the first symptoms appear only closer to August. Brown or black spots form on the leaves, they quickly grow, growing over the surface. The weakened bush sheds foliage, blooms very poorly. Black spot begins to progress with increased humidity.
It is quite difficult to get rid of the disease, since the fungus is perfectly preserved on fallen leaves. Therefore, intensive spring pruning, harvesting of last year's crop residues and mulching are extraordinary treatments. By the way, yellow varieties are more prone to black spotting.
Control methods:
- be sure to cut off diseased leaves;
- in sunny weather, the bushes are poured with a soda solution (half a glass for 3.5 liters of clean water);
- the next popular way is to dilute a glass of milk in 12 liters of water and give the "victims" a shower;
- planting processing Tsinebom, Benlatom, Topaz, Skorom, Fundazol... Bordeaux liquid can also help, as does copper sulfate.
Rust
A particularly strong rust fungus of the genus Phragmidium repaired, park varieties, rose hips are affected. In spring, bright red pustules with spores appear on the root collar, shoots, at the bottom of the leaf blade. Since July they turn black, foliage falls off, shoots are deformed and dry up. Dealing with rust is very difficult, especially during rainy summers. If a rose is badly damaged, it cannot be treated: such specimens are destroyed.
Treatment methods:
- for prevention, foliar dressing is done with an extract of superphosphate (0.3%), potassium nitrate (0.3%);
- the affected parts must be cut out, the fallen remains must be raked up and burned. After each trimming, the tool is processed in denatured alcohol;
- planting, the ground around is sprayed with copper-containing preparations, and Topaz, Profit.
Viral mosaic
The characteristic signs of a viral mosaic are the appearance of yellow streaks on the leaf blades. In addition to the marble pattern, the leaves often become wrinkled, very narrow, and curly. Plants weaken, their growth slows down, they quickly die. The spread of the viral mosaic is often caused by aphids, ticks, and rose grafting.
The disease is easily transmitted through instruments, hands, gloves. Sick specimens are not used for reproduction. Some gardeners are in no hurry to dig out diseased bushes, if they are still quite strong: they are fed with fertilizers with a full composition of trace elements. Overly affected plants are, of course, destroyed.
Rose, like a real queen of the garden, requires constant attention. In addition to proper watering, timely fertilizing, summer, spring and autumn pruning, they must be protected from various diseases and prevent the invasion of pests.
Among the many problems in the first place is the black spot of the rose leaves. It is impossible to get rid of this disease, it appears every year on rose bushes to one degree or another.
What kind of disease is black spot?
The cause of this disease is Marssonina rosae, a mushroom that can be found wherever and where roses grow. For the time being, it can be at rest, until certain conditions occur - increased humidity of the surrounding air, accompanied by a low temperature. In this situation, the spores of the fungus begin to activate and infect the leaves of the roses. At the same time, they are carried to other bushes with water droplets from rain, watering or with dew.
The disease is promoted by:
- Dense planting of rose bushes when the wind cannot dry the leaves after watering, dew or rain.
- High doses of nitrogen in the soil, which are applied as top dressing. This reduces the plant's immunity, since nutrition for any plant must be balanced. Lack or overdose weakens roses. If a lot of nitrogen has been added to the soil, then it is necessary to add phosphorus and potassium.
- Wrong spring.
The first signs of the disease are manifested by the appearance of dark, uneven spots on the leaves of the rose, which quickly cover the entire leaf blade, after which it curls, dries up and falls off.
Together with the leaves, dormant spores of the fungus go into the soil.
If in spring and early summer the black spotting of roses does not manifest itself in any way, then in the middle of summer it can hit all rose bushes and, believe me, this is not a very beautiful sight. The plants are completely naked. It comes to the point that there is not a single leaf on the bushes. Of course, roses will grow foliage again, but at the same time they spend their energy on growing new leaves when they need to prepare for winter. Therefore, not all plants come out of hibernation, and the reason here may be just such a disease, and not the freezing of the rose.
Prevention of black spot of roses
It is easier to prevent any disease than to cure for a long time. Everyone knows this, but not every rose lover applies prevention methods in his flower garden. First of all, it is necessary to focus on the fact that not all roses are equally susceptible to this disease. When buying, you need to choose those varieties of roses that are most resistant to this disease.
All fallen leaves should be immediately removed from the rose bushes so that the spore of the fungus remains in the soil as little as possible.
Before covering for the winter, you should treat roses from black spot in autumn with preparations containing copper.
When pruning roses in autumn, all that is superfluous must be burned. You should not take risks and lay waste from diseased plants in a compost heap, so as not to breed infection on the site.
Do we do without chemistry?
It will help reduce the risk of rose disease such as black spot black spot and occasional spraying of plants with preparations with copper or natural infusions.
With the onset of damp and cool weather, it is necessary to prepare roses by cutting out all the small shoots that go inside the bush. Remove weeds and treat the soil under the roses with wood ash, and spray the leaves with a solution of Fitosporin, Gamair, or Alirin B.
Good results are obtained when spraying rose bushes with compositions from natural products:
- infusion of mullein;
- peels of garlic or onions;
- infusion of horsetail;
- dry wood ash;
- infusion of nettle with dandelion.
Treatment of roses from black spot with a concentrated infusion of mullein is carried out in early spring, while there are still no leaves. After the earthen hitch was moved away from the rose bushes and the shelter was removed. While there are no leaves, there is nothing to burn, but the shoots will survive. They just pour over all the shoots from the watering can. For the purpose of prevention, such treatment is advised to be carried out several times over the summer. But in the summer, the infusion is diluted with water 1:10. The procedure is not entirely pleasant, given the aromas outgoing, but effective in the opinion of many rose growers.
Infusions or decoctions of onion or garlic husks are used undiluted when the color of the liquid resembles weakly brewed tea. Spraying is carried out at any time, whether in spring or summer.
Black spot roses preparations
after processing Hom
If natural infusions of decoctions are not beneficial, heavy artillery enters the battle in the form of chemical preparations containing mainly copper and fungicides. As a preventive measure, when the weather worsens, plant immunity support can be applied. For this, roses are treated with such means as Ciovit, Epin, or Epin-Extra.
If black spot appears on roses, treatment is carried out until it disappears, every 10-12 days. And in order for the plant not to get used to one drug, they need to be changed or alternated. The choice is large:
- Oxyhom;
- Profit;
- Ridomil Gold;
- Fitosporin;
- Abiga Peak;
- Tiovit-Jack;
- Topaz or Skor and many others.
Naturally, before using this or that drug, you must carefully read the attached instructions.
Roses are treated with drugs until the leaf plate is completely wetted early in the morning or in the evening, when the rays of the sun can no longer burn the leaves.
After all, each drop acts like a lens, increasing the risk of getting burned hundreds of times. If the weather is cloudy, you need to count on at least 3-4 hours before the rain. If there are few bushes, you can make an umbrella-shaped shelter above each so that the drug does not wash off with the rain.
The use of preventive measures may well protect plants from such a disease, and you will not have a question - black spot of roses and how to deal with it.
Leaf spot is not typical for ornamental plants that are full of health. If you notice blotches of black, yellow, red or rusty hues on roses, most likely they are kept in unfavorable conditions or are under stress. Discoloration of the leaves can also be a sign of a disease. How to find out why spots appeared on your pets and what measures to take to revive the plant?
The appearance of brown spots can be a sign of brown spot (cercospora). With this disease, they also have a black border. The causes of the fungal disease are associated with high temperature and humidity. The presence of dark brown spots may also indicate fungal infections such as septoria, pestalocin, phyllistiktosis.
The signs of all these diseases are similar to each other, so it will not be easy to make a definitive diagnosis. In this case, you should not puzzle yourself, it is enough to carry out the treatment with chemicals to combat fungal diseases.
Black spots on roses
If June is cool and rainy, dark spots may form on the roses, which soon merge and turn black. Where they occur, swelling (round or oblong) can be observed. A disease of this kind is called black spot. The causative agent in this case is the mushroom Marssonina rosae. Soon the leaves fall off, the plant weakens and refuses to bloom. Black spot can be confused with downy mildew. However, the latter is characterized by spots of different colors (they can be black, red-brown, purple).
