Poinsettia or Christmas star is a great alternative to the usual spruce. How to care for poinsettia after purchase. Poinsettia how to prune a plant

All lovers of indoor plants know how to organize the care of indoor plants. For the most part, it is enough to be aware of the light and temperature regime required for a particular plant, to know what watering should be, and to have transplanting skills. But among indoor flowers there are also those, the care process for which is not always simple enough, for example, poinsettia or, as it is also called, the red Christmas star. This plant is very demanding on the light regime, without which it simply will not bloom. This red flower is very capricious: first the leaves turned yellow, then suddenly fell off, and the owners sort out in their heads a bunch of reasons for what could have happened and how to get this whimsical to bloom at home. But as soon as the poinsettia blooms, all the difficulties of leaving are immediately forgotten. How to trim the poinsettia correctly, what watering and lighting should be, why the leaves fall, and most importantly, how to achieve flowering - gets answers to the questions that have arisen.

White poinsettia

Poinsettia is a very charming plant that, during flowering, pleases its owners with bracts with red, pink or cream shades on top and dark green below. The popular name - Christmas Star - this plant received because of its flowering in winter, mainly in early January. However, when growing this red indoor flower, you should be very careful, as the poinsettia juice is edible and, if it gets on the skin, can cause irritation or an allergic reaction.

Posenttia care

Christmas poinsettia is very demanding to care for. You should not buy a flower on the street during frosts, it does not tolerate low temperatures. When buying, you should pay attention not only to the bracts, but also to the inflorescences - they should not be open.

Temperature regime

Pink poinsettia

The optimal temperature regime for a red indoor poinsettia flower is in the range of 19-22 degrees. If the temperature drops below 15 degrees, it is possible that the bracts will lose their richness in color, and at 10 degrees of heat, the root system will begin to die off. Quite often, amateur flower growers notice that their Christmas star has slowed down. The reason for this phenomenon may be a higher night temperature compared to daytime. The most important thing to remember when breeding a poinsettia plant is that such flowers do not tolerate sudden temperature changes, otherwise the foliage may fall off.

Lighting

When poinsettia blooms, the lighting should be as bright as it can be at home. To prevent burns on the leaves, the flower should be accustomed to direct sunlight gradually, in principle, like any other plant. The most optimal location is the window sills of the southern or southeastern side of the apartment or house.

For the laying of new inflorescences, it is very important that the indoor poinsetia flower is exposed to the light for no more than 10 hours. The plant should be darkened for 2 months, starting from the last days of September. If this procedure is not followed, the Christmas star will simply not bloom.

Watering

Watering during the summer months should be very abundant, but do not allow the water to stagnate, as this can contribute to the development of rot. After the poinsettia has faded, watering should be reduced. The water should not be cold, it is best when it is at room temperature.

Humidity

It is very important to spray the plant with warm water several times a week. Too low a humidity level can cause foliage to shed, as well as the appearance of the most important enemy of the Christmas star flower - the red tick.

Top dressing and fertilizers

In order for the poinsettia to receive the maximum amount of nutrients necessary for full growth and flowering, it should be fed.

During rapid growth and flowering, complex mineral fertilizers or a weak solution should be applied every 12-14 days. When flowering, potash fertilizers will come in handy. During sleep, feeding is not worth it.

Video "Poinsettia or Christmas star home care"

Priming

The soil for a red indoor flower should be slightly acidic, the best option is a mixture of clay-sod, leaf and sod land with the addition of sand in a ratio of 3: 2: 1: 1, at which the acidity level will be around 6. Such soil mixtures are sold in garden stores. And also do not forget about good drainage.

Transfer

When transplanting poinsettia, it is very important to preserve an earthen ball that envelops the root system, otherwise there is a high probability of injury to the plant. Add a little humus to the soil mixture. For the most part, poinsettia flower is very rich in young shoots, of which 3-4 of the strongest should be left, and the rest removed. The pot should be larger than the previous one with mandatory drainage. After 5-6 days after transplanting, it is advisable to feed the plant with organic fertilizer.

Pruning

In order for the Christmas star to not turn from a flower into an ornamental shrub, it should be periodically cut off. Correct poinsettia pruning is characterized by leaving stems approximately 10 cm high from the ground. During the further cultivation of this plant, you should only maintain a beautiful crown shape.

Although indoor care for poinsettia cannot be called simple, the amazing flowering completely compensates for everything, and following these recommendations will allow you to enjoy this beautiful plant for a rather long period of time.

Video "Spring pruning and transplanting poinsettia"

How to achieve flowering poinsettia

In order to see the poinsettia bloom, you should try hard. Not only that watering, humidity, temperature regime must be strictly observed, it is necessary to follow a certain regime of day and night change.

The formation of flower buds is possible only when the red indoor flower is placed in complete darkness for at least 12 hours. If you want to give yourself an indescribable feeling of delight at one glance at the poinsettia on New Year's holidays, you should start practicing this kind of light mode 2–2.5 months before the New Year.

Placing the flower for 12-13 hours in a place protected from light or covering it with an ordinary cardboard box or bag, after 18-20 days, flower buds will first appear, and then the bracts themselves. Subject to all of the above recommendations, as well as the establishment of a temperature of 16-17 degrees, the flowering process can last from 2 to 6 months.

The flowering of poinsettia ends with a completely natural transition to a state of dormancy, which manifests itself as yellowing and falling leaves. Many indoor plant lovers begin to panic, which is absolutely useless, because this is a natural process. In this case, it remains only to wait for a new phase of flowering.

Video "Poinsettia - preparation for flowering"

Reproduction

Like all ornamental flowers, poinsettia can be propagated by both seeds and cuttings. However, it is possible to obtain the seeds of this plant only in natural conditions, and in indoor conditions it is almost impossible, therefore reproduction with the help of cuttings is the most optimal and in demand among plant lovers.

In order for the reproduction procedure of the Christmas star flower to be successful, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

  1. The length of the selected poinsenttia stalk must be at least 7–8 cm and at least 5–6 leaves. In most cases, these shoots are cut from new shoots.
  2. The “correct” shoot should be cut under the lower knot.
  3. The cut off stalk of poinsenttia should be placed in warm water for 5-7 minutes. This action will wash away the caustic milky juice, which is so rich in this wonderful red flower. In no case should you touch the cut with your bare hands, use gloves. And also do not forget to wash the secateurs with which the shoot was cut.
  4. The next step is to plant the cuttings in a soil mixture that has already been prepared or bought in a specialized store. Remember to spill the soil thoroughly, this is very important.

At first, the pots with seedlings should be covered with plastic wrap and placed in a well-ventilated and warm room without direct sunlight, but with sufficient lighting. The rooting process will take about 25-35 days. Immediately after new leaves appear, the shoots should be pinched and sprayed periodically. Such operations will stimulate the growth of young stems and will contribute to the formation of a more lush crown.

Pests and diseases

Poinsettia leaves turn yellow and dry

Poinsettia will grow healthy and delight its owner with excellent flowering, if the growing conditions (such as sufficient watering, the necessary humidity and required air temperature, bright illumination during flowering and growth, as well as the absence of through winds) are as close to natural as possible. Failure to comply with at least one of the conditions can cause yellowness on the leaves, and in the absence of the necessary measures, leaf fall and death of the flower.

Too dry air has a beneficial effect on the spider mite - a rather small red spider that appears on the lower part of the foliage and envelops it with its thin whitish cobwebs. You can get rid of this pest by spraying or washing the plant with water or a weak concentrate of tobacco infusion. And pollination with ground sulfur, which must be carried out in the fresh air, has also proven itself very well. This kind of procedure should be carried out every week, and if the spider mite has not yet managed to greatly harm the poinsettia, such actions will be quite enough to return the flower to its former healthy state. If the presence of lesions was noticed too late, and the insects had time to breed, you should use special chemicals that can be found in any gardening store.

Periodically, the Christmas star suffers from infectious diseases such as powdery mildew, fusarium or gray rot, arising from an increased level of humidity. Brown spots or white bloom appear on the leaves, flowers and shoots, and over time, the plant withers and completely dies. In order to combat such diseases, drugs such as Fundazol, Topaz, and Skor are used.

Leaves turn yellow

If you find yellow blotches on poinsettia leaves, it means that some of the agrotechnical recommendations have been missed. The yellowness of the leaves appears if the plant is in a rather cool place, and watering is too abundant. The flower should be carefully examined for pests that can cause yellowing of the foliage.

Leaves fall

If the leaves have fallen off before the poinsettia has bloomed, then the air in the room is too dry or the soil is too humid, and the temperature regime is low. Fallen leaves may indicate a lack of lighting or a sharp drop in temperature.

Photo Christmas poinsettia




Poinsettia is a very capricious plant that requires a lot of attention and strict adherence to all recommendations for home care. For the most part, it is difficult for novice lovers of ornamental plants to choose the right lighting and create the required temperature regime. The Christmas star has long won its place on the windowsills and greenhouses of connoisseurs of beautiful plants around the world. Undoubtedly, to achieve the formation of inflorescences is worth a lot of effort, but just a phenomenal look, and even in winter it is worth it. The only thing to keep in mind is that poinsettia is poisonous and can “punish” if mishandled.

Few flowering plants can boast of "winter" flowering. One of them is poinsettia, or, as this flower is also called, the Christmas star. This bright tropical beauty appears on the shelves of flower shops in winter, before the New Year, which explains its second name. The plant is capricious, but it may well "take root" on your windowsill - of course, subject to all the rules of agricultural technology.

The poinsettia plant, or the finest euphorbia, belongs to the Euphorbia family. It occurs naturally in the tropical regions of Central America and Mexico. It is an evergreen shrub that grows up to 3 m in open field. Leaves are dark green, ovoid, with a jagged edge; in length can reach 15 cm.

Flowers are small, yellowish, collected in rosettes. This indoor flower attracts attention with red leaves "bordering" the inflorescences. Today, hybrids have been bred with different colors of the bracts - pink, yellow, red, apricot. There is even a two-tone and white poinsettia. Mass flowering occurs in December-February, which is why poinsettia received the nickname "Christmas flower" or "Star of Bethlehem".

How to care for poinsettia

Complete home care for a Christmas star is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations exactly. It is important to remember that during the year, depending on the phase of growth, poinsettia requires different conditions of detention. This plant blooms with a short daylight hours, then sheds its leaves and rests for several months, after which it begins to actively gain green mass.

Lighting

Poinsettia starts budding only with short daylight hours. For full flowering, she needs bright lighting, so in autumn and winter it is better to place the pot on the southern windowsills. On east-facing windows, additional lighting may be needed to produce bright bracts.

Remember that the length of daylight hours cannot be increased - on the contrary, it is artificially reduced. The Christmas star reacts to any bright light sources and refuses to bloom at the slightest violation of the regime. In spring and summer, the plant is placed in partial shade.

Temperature regime

Despite the fact that poinsettia is a resident of the tropics, it has a negative attitude towards excessively high temperatures. During the growing season, it is desirable to keep the plant at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. It occurs in the summer heat, so it is important to take all measures to keep the flower from overheating. At 28 degrees, decorative properties are lost, a further increase in temperature can lead to death.

During the flowering of poinsettia, moderate coolness is required - 14-18 degrees. The Christmas star does not tolerate lower rates. During semi-dormancy, the plant is kept cool (12-14 degrees).

Air humidity and watering, fertilization

Poinsettia, or as this flower is sometimes mistakenly called "poinsettia", does not tolerate the dry air of our apartments. She needs additional hydration. The flower is sprayed all year round, except for the time when the plant is resting, several times a day with soft, settled and always warm water. To increase humidity, you can use pallets with wet sand or expanded clay, air humidifiers.

In winter, the bush is positioned so that the hot air from the batteries does not dry it out. At the same time, you cannot move the pot closer to the glass - the leaves that touch the cold surface will die. Poinsettia is protected from drafts, especially cold ones, which can lead to its death.

At the same time, poinsettia, surprisingly, has a negative attitude to the high humidity of the earthen coma. She needs moderate watering with drying of the topsoil for most of the year. During an active growing season, the plant drinks more water - accordingly, it is watered more often. During the semi-rest period, the amount of moisture is reduced, but the earth is not allowed to dry out completely.

Full care of "poinsettia" is impossible without regular feeding. The use of a complex mineral fertilizer will be optimal. It is brought in at the dosage indicated by the manufacturer, twice a month. Naturally, fertilization is stopped during rest.

Post-flowering care and how to prune a plant

To properly care for a flower, you need to know its features. In the spring, after the end of flowering, the poinsettia gradually goes into a state of dormancy, shedding its leaves. Watering and light intensity decrease, feeding stops. At this time, it is necessary to cut the poinsettia - each shoot is shortened to 15 cm.

Two months are enough for a plant to have a good rest, after which the buds remaining on the shoots begin to grow. At this stage, the bush is formed, trying to avoid thickening and give it a presentable appearance. Usually, no more than five lateral shoots are left on each shoot, the rest are cut out. It is important to remove the growths growing inside the bush.

Care after purchase

When purchasing a Christmas star, it is not enough to assess the condition of the bracts and the appearance of the bush. To choose a “fresh”, recently blossoming plant that will delight you for a long time, pay attention to the buds themselves. If they are fully open and the stamens are visible, the poinsettia has blossomed a long time ago. If the flowers wrinkle and begin to dry out, it is already fading and will soon begin to shed its foliage. Choose specimens with barely opened buds - such a plant will bloom for another 3-4 months.

After the purchase, special care for the poinsettia at home is not required. The plant is moderately watered with warm, settled water, sprayed daily and fed regularly. A transplant of a purchased Christmas star is not required - after all, we acquire it in the “final” part of the annual life cycle, and after several months of flowering, it will fall asleep. You can treat the plant with acaricides to prevent spider mites.

Reproduction

Poinsettia can be propagated at home with apical cuttings. Only planting material taken in spring or early summer is rooted. It is best to use cuttings left over from formative pruning. It is desirable that each of them have at least 5 internodes.

After separation from the mother bush, the shoot is immediately washed under a stream of warm water to wash off the milky juice that has come out. When solidified, it creates a dense cork that will not allow the roots to break through. Cuttings root both in water and in a moisture-absorbing, loose substrate. As the latter, you can use a mixture of peat and sand in equal parts.

Containers (usually plastic cups) with planted cuttings must be placed in a greenhouse or covered with plastic bags. The soil is constantly kept moist. The roots appear in about a month. By autumn, young plants will be ready to be transplanted into regular pots and can bloom.

All work is carried out with gloves - the milky juice is poisonous.

Transfer

Poinsettia transplant is carried out annually in the spring, immediately after waking up. But the volume of the pot is increased to it as the root system develops - usually, once every 2 years. But even if a larger pot is not needed, it is better to change the old one or rinse thoroughly to remove salts and harmful microorganisms that have accumulated on the walls over a year.

Choosing the right pot and soil

We choose a pot for poinsettia so that 5-7 cm remains between the sides and the bush; we give preference to deep containers. Soil for poinsettia should be nutritious, moisture-absorbing and loose. A mixture of turf, leafy soil, peat and sand (3: 3: 1: 1) is ideal. Before using the earth, it is imperative to "boil" for an hour: it is slightly moistened and put on fire in a sealed container.

Such a procedure is guaranteed to destroy all pests, including the nematode. In a dry state, only sand can be heat treated - the rest of the components become unsuitable for plants for several months. Leafy and sod land cannot be replaced with black soil - it is too heavy for indoor flowers. If you do not have the opportunity to "dig up" the necessary components, the best way out is to purchase a ready-made mixture in specialized stores.

Step-by-step transplant process

To transplant a Christmas star painlessly, follow the algorithm:

  1. The transplant is carried out as soon as the buds are swollen and the first shoots have begun to hatch. An overgrown plant tolerates the procedure worse and may die.
  2. The bush is removed from an old container; the roots are partially freed from the soil, visible for the presence of damaged areas. When found, they are cut with a sharp, non-kitchen knife.
  3. Drainage and a little fresh soil are poured into the prepared container so that after transshipment it is not necessary to bury the shoots.
  4. An earthen lump is installed, earth is poured on the sides.

After transplanting, the bush is watered abundantly and placed in a room with a temperature of at least 20 degrees; the flower is sprayed daily. Top dressing can be given after 2 weeks.

Growing problems

The Christmas star is also damaged by fungal diseases: root, gray and brown rot, powdery mildew. Their appearance is usually caused by coolness, waterlogging or weakening of the plant's immunity. At the first signs, the damaged areas are cut out, the entire bush is treated with Fundazol several times.

Most often, the plant suffers from violations of the rules of agricultural technology.

External manifestations Causes Remedies
Poinsettia leaves turn yellow and fall If the plant does not prepare for the dormant period, there may be several reasons: too high temperature, lack of lighting. Most often, this is how poinsettia reacts to waterlogging of the soil. Observe agricultural practices. Remember that the Christmas star does not like the excessive moisture of an earthy coma; let the topsoil dry out between waterings.
Inflorescences fall, the edges of the leaves dry out Air is too dry. Poinsettia needs daily spraying.
Leaves fall green, with no signs of yellowing or wilting Draft or sudden drop in temperature. Protect poinsettia from drafts. Remember that in winter the temperature should not drop below 12 degrees.

The most common problem faced by poinsettia owners is the lack of budding. If the Christmas star is not blooming, then you have not provided it with short daylight hours. Remember that the plant will react to any light source, even ordinary lamps in the room. Therefore, the bush is covered with a box or a light-blocking bag every day at the same time. For poinsettia to bloom, you need ten hours of daylight and 14 hours of rest in complete darkness. Only after 2 months of this regime, buds will appear. You can prepare the plant for flowering in advance, starting in September. For this, the length of natural daylight hours is "shortened" daily by 10 minutes.



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Poinsettia is a rather capricious plant that requires close attention and careful care. But it is quite possible to grow it indoors and achieve annual flowering. The Christmas star pays for all the troubles with a bright and long-lasting "bloom".


Poinsettia (poinsettia) is an amazingly beautiful houseplant that conquered flower growers with unusual bracts of bright shades, similar to stars. It blooms in winter, on New Year's holidays and Christmas. Blooming poinsettia is still an exotic but very stylish addition to the traditional Christmas tree, garlands and gift wrapping in Russia. In Europe, the plant is most often thrown away after the holidays, not wanting to spend time and energy during the year to make it bloom again. But if you know the simple rules for caring for poinsettia at home and follow them exactly, the flower will delight you for many years.

Description of poinsettia

Poinsettia (sometimes in Russian-language sources there is a variant of spelling with one "t" - poinsettia) - a type of herbaceous or bushy plants belonging to the Euphorbia family and numbering more than 100 representatives.

In Europe, poinsettia is known as "the most beautiful euphorbia" (Euphorbia pulcherrima - the official name in accordance with the botanical classification), "Christmas" or "Star of Bethlehem". This is due to the timing of flowering - beautiful bracts bloom just in time for Catholic Christmas.

In nature, poinsettia looks quite impressive, but "indoor" specimens are much smaller

In nature, poinsettia is found exclusively in the tropics. She feels great in the shade of taller trees, preferring the slopes of the mountains. Its habitat is Central America (Mexico, Costa Rica, Guatemala, Belize).

Under natural conditions, poinsettia is a low graceful shrub 1-3 m high. "Home" poinsettia rarely grows above 0.5 m. The average height of the bush is 30–35 cm. The stems are intensively branching, the branches are bare from below. Leaves are deep green in color, as a rule, smooth to the touch, in the form of an elongated ellipse, pointed at the end. The edges are serrated. The average length of a leaf is 12–15 cm, its width is about half that.

The surrounding buds of poinsettia leaves change color

Contrary to popular belief, poinsettia flowers are very nondescript. They are very small, yellowish, collected in inflorescences in the shape of an umbrella or rosette. What are considered bright petals - scarlet, crimson, snow-white, combined, are actually bracts. They are densely located at the tops of the shoots. Poinsettia buds form in mid-December, bracts last until the end of winter.

The fact that poinsettia is often mistaken for flower petals are actually bracts

Like all Euphorbiaceae, the stems and leaves of poinsettia contain a milky white juice. It is quite caustic and can severely burn sensitive skin, so all work with the plant should be carried out only with rubber gloves. If it gets on the mucous membrane, there is a risk of severe nausea, vomiting, and stomach pain. Anyone who is allergic to pollen should be careful with a flower. Since Quincke's edema and anaphylactic shock can develop.

However, American natives have learned to "squeeze lemonade out of lemon." After a certain treatment, they use the poisonous juice as an effective antipyretic, a drug for toothache, a remedy for warts and insect bites. Leaf poultices help relieve attacks of rheumatism and sciatica.

The popularization of the plant, which was still known to the Aztecs under the difficult-to-pronounce name cuetlaxochitl (the Indians perceived it as a symbol of beauty), the world owes to the first US ambassador to Mexico, and also to a physician and amateur botanist - Joel Roberts Poinsett (or, in the French manner, Poinsett) ... It was in honor of him that the flower was named.

In Europe and the USA, Christmas is unthinkable without poinsettia, just like without a tree and gifts.

The fashion of giving poinsettia for Christmas at the beginning of the 20th century was introduced by the owner of the greenhouse, Albert Ecke, and reinforced by his son Paul.

Poinsettia is also appreciated among adherents of feng shui teachings. It is believed that the flower develops the owner's sociability, attracts pleasant people to his house, neutralizes the influence of negative energy, "extinguishes" conflicts and quarrels, relieves stress. The owner of the poinsettia develops the qualities of a leader, women effortlessly lose weight and look significantly younger than their age. Because of such "violent activity", the flower is not recommended to be placed in the bedroom - it simply will not let the owner sleep peacefully.

Video: the appearance of the most beautiful poinsettia

Plant species popular with amateur flower growers

"Natural" poinsettias, despite their large numbers, are almost never found among flower growers. Their place is taken by hybrids bred by breeding. Most often, plants are classified according to the shade of the bracts:

Red poinsettias are a classic option. Combination of red and bright green (same as on holly wreaths).

Photo gallery: red poinsettias

Angelica - classic red bracts, effectively contrasting with dark green leaves, the shade is bright, but not flashy (other varieties with bracts of the same tone - Sonora, Premium Red, Galactica, Prestige Maroon) In the Olympia variety, the bracts are pale red, velvety to the touch , although the leaves themselves are smooth. In the Cortez Fire hybrid, the bracts resemble a flame, shimmering with shades of red-orange, Peterstar is very similar to it. a distinctive feature of the entire group of Carousel varieties) From a distance, the blooming Winter Rose poinsettia can be easily confused with the rose of an old English variety - the bracts are rounded, with slightly turned away edges. Champion variety has an unusual pale red bracts tone. shade Sort Dark Red and similar to it Freedom Coral are very b dark bracts, almost like those of roses of the "baccarat" variety. Harlequin Red is distinguished by the shape of the bracts - they are strongly corrugated parallel to the central vein, sharply pointed

In pink poinsettias, the color varies from delicate pastel to crimson and bright neon.

Photo gallery: pink plant varieties

Cultivar Maren, Pink Ribbon and some others - classic pink color Poinsettia Freedom Pink - very delicate, creamy pink Hybrid Cortez Pink - unusual peach or salmon tone, depending on growing conditions Pink Ell cultivar very bright crimson bracts Monet Twilight and similar to Neem Da Vinci - light and dark shades smoothly flow into each other, pinkish bracts seem to be sprinkled with flour.Anette Hegg poinsetti has dark crimson bracts

White poinsettias are not very popular compared to others, but no less spectacular. They are even more elegant and graceful.

Photo gallery: white poinsettia

The Regina variety is characterized by the presence of clearly distinguishable salad veins on a white background Silverstar White - pure snow-white color of Whitestar bracts - white slightly casts green In the Freedom White hybrid (as well as Polar Bear, Infinity White), the bracts in artificial light cast silvery Cortez White and similar on it Sonora White - an unusual shade of ivory, slightly shimmering with mother-of-pearl

There are other types as well. The fantasy of breeders is limitless.

Photo gallery: unusual breeding hybrids

Marble cultivar - soft cream or vanilla bracts and pinkish middle Hybrid Sonora White Glitter and almost the same Jingle Bells - bright red bracts covered with small snow-white "splashes" Silverstar Marble cultivar, as well as Marblestar, Peterstar Marble - red or pink bracts with uneven white border Carousel Pink - double hybrid, pale pink bracts with greenish veins Strawberry And Cream - pink-purple bracts with scalloped edges and a wide white border Ice Punch Hybrid - bright lilac-pink color "diluted" with almost white along the central vein

Video: a variety of poinsettias

How to create an optimal microclimate for a plant

Poinsettia comes from the tropics, but she does not like heat and bright sunlight, preferring to hide under natural conditions under the shade of taller trees with closely intertwined crowns.

A poinsettia standing on the windowsill in the cold season should not touch the glass, even with one of the leaves. The plant reacts sharply negatively to temperature changes, especially in combination with cold drafts.

Table: Recommended conditions for growing poinsettia at home

Factor Recommendations
Location Not far from an east or west facing window. In the presence of artificial supplementary lighting, northern windows are also suitable. Poinsettia, which is about to bloom, is moved closer to the south window. In warm weather, the flower feels good in the open air, if you provide it with protection from precipitation, gusts of wind, and the scorching sun. In the summer, it should be possible to regularly ventilate the room.
Lighting The light is bright, daylight hours in summer - 12 hours or more, protection from direct sunlight is necessary. In cloudy weather, you will need special phytolamps.
Temperature Most of the year - 20-25 ° C. During flowering - slightly lower, but not less than 15 ° C. During the rest period - 13-15 ° C. Below 12 ° C is critical for a flower, it may fall asleep and not wake up.
Air humidity The minimum rate is 60%. Move the flower away from radiators, spray the poinsettia and the surrounding air at least once a day (2-3 if possible). Place a special humidifier device next to it, containers with water, wet moss, expanded clay, peat.

How to prune and transplant a flower

A transplant for poinsettia of any age is an annual procedure, since the flower grows quite quickly. In a faded plant, at the beginning of spring, about a third of the length of each shoot is cut, leaving 3-5 growth buds. The flower is placed in a warm place, provide sufficient watering. The poinsettia can be replanted when new leaves appear. This usually happens in April or May.

Just before the transplant, the poinsettia looks like this

Soil preparation, choosing the optimal pot

A very large poinsettia pot is not needed. Preference is given to containers 2–3 cm larger than the previous one in diameter, with a large drainage hole, made of unglazed ceramics. Air enters the pot through the pores, and aeration (ventilation) of the roots is an effective way to prevent rot.

When choosing a poinsettia pot, opt for a simple ceramic container

The flower prefers a slightly acidic substrate (pH is about 6). A special soil for Euphorbia is suitable. If you couldn't buy one, it is easy to mix the soil yourself:

  • dense clay turf, leafy soil, peat chips, coarse river sand (3: 2: 1: 1);
  • universal soil for flowering indoor plants, powdered dry manure, sand (2: 1: 1);
  • leaf humus, peat, perlite or vermiculite (3: 2: 2).

Transplant procedure

  1. Provide good drainage for the flower by sprinkling a layer of expanded clay or material with similar properties at least 3 cm thick on the bottom of the new pot.
  2. Fill about a third of the pot with fresh substrate.
  3. Water the flower half an hour before the procedure and remove it from the old container. If it doesn't work, gently tap the sides of the pot. Try to keep the earth ball intact.
  4. Inspect the roots as much as possible. Cut off any dry and damaged, especially blackened from rot. Sprinkle the sections with sifted wood ash, activated carbon powder, colloidal sulfur, dust with Kornevin.
  5. Place the flower in a new container, add substrate around the edges. Shake the pot several times to distribute it evenly. It is undesirable to compact the earth with your hands.
  6. Put the transplanted poinsettia in a warm place (20 ° C or slightly higher), water abundantly, spray daily.
  7. After the emergence of new shoots, leave 5-6 of the strongest and most well-located, cut the rest as close to the ground as possible, leaving no "stumps".
  8. Transfer the poinsettia to the old place, care as usual.

How to properly care for a plant

Watering

During active growth, the poinsettia is watered abundantly every 2-3 days. The substrate should dry completely at a depth of 1-1.5 cm.... Focus on the weather outside, the temperature and humidity in the room - both the bay and dry soil for a flower are equally harmful.

Water for watering and spraying poinsettia should be soft. If it is not possible to use rainwater or thawed water, defend the water supply for at least a day. To soften, throw a little citric acid into a container (a few crystals are enough for 10 liters) and wait for a white-gray precipitate to form in the form of flakes. The optimum temperature is around 30 ° C.

Fertilization

Top dressing stimulates flowering. After transplanting and until the beginning of autumn, the poinsettia is watered every 12-15 days with a solution of complex liquid mineral fertilizer.

Poinsettias are also suitable for universal feeding, but it is better to find a remedy for Euphorbia, or at least for cacti and succulents

Or, when transplanting, slowly dissolving granules can be added to the soil. If you cannot find a special remedy for Euphorbia, any fertilizer for flowering indoor plants or a top dressing for cacti and succulents will do.

Dormant period

The plant needs annual rest after flowering. The rest period lasts 7-8 weeks. When the bracts are completely dry, cut them off and place the pot in a dark, cool (13-15 ° C) room.

Before a dormant period, the poinsettia looks something like this, dry leaves must be cut off, fallen leaves must be removed from the pot

The resting flower does not need feeding. During this period, watering is reduced - it is enough to moisten the soil once a week. The soil should be almost completely dry.

How to make poinsettia bloom for the New Year holidays?

In order for the poinsettia to bloom again, you need to adhere to certain recommendations. So the plant will delight you for 8-10 years. Young poinsettias grown from cuttings this spring should not be disturbed - most likely they will not bloom.

  1. Starting from the end of September, cover the flower every day with a dense dark plastic bag, bucket, box, as soon as it starts to get dark outside. Or put it in a room without windows, in a closet with well-fitting doors (in the absence of complete darkness, the bracts will be covered with ugly dark spots). If the climate permits, put the flower in a greenhouse without lighting or heating, or in a garden. The natural change of day and night is best for him.
  2. In the morning (around 9:00) return the pot to its original place. The plant should spend at least 12 hours in complete darkness (preferably 14). Reduce watering a little.
  3. Leave the flower alone after 8 weeks. If everything is done correctly, it will begin to intensively build up green mass.
  4. After another 15–20 days, flower buds will appear. Place the plant by the south window. Bracts bloom quite quickly if the buds are regularly sprayed with warm water.

Blooming poinsettia next to the tree looks somewhat unusual

Dishes with fruits, especially apples, pears and bananas, should not be placed near the blooming poinsettia. They secrete ethylene, which causes the bracts to fade very quickly.

There is a sign: if you manage to make the poinsettia bloom for the holidays, in the coming year you will surely be lucky.

The leaves turn yellow, wither, the stalk is covered with a bloom, or how the poinsettia reacts to mistakes in care

Improper care not immediately, but affects the decorativeness of the poinsettia. The flower gives the gardener unambiguous signals, letting him know that something is not happy with him. Therefore, it is important to be able to correctly interpret these signs and react to them.

Table: what the flower is dissatisfied with and how to avoid mistakes in its cultivation and care

What does a flower look like What is the reason and what to do
The leaves are drooping, losing their tone, sometimes even falling off. Improper watering. So the flower can react to both moisture deficit and its excess.
Leaves fall suddenly and massively. The plant is standing in a cold draft or has suffered from a sudden drop in temperature.
Leaves discolor, wither, fall off. Poinsettia lacks light. Find a more suitable place for the flower. If there is no alternative, use special phytolamps or conventional fluorescent lamps.
The tips of the leaves turn brown and dry. The buds fall off without blooming. The room temperature is too high and / or the air is too dry.
Leaves and cuttings are covered with a gray fluffy bloom. The plant is watered too abundantly, and the room is cold for poinsettia.
Leaves turn yellow and fall off after flowering. This is a natural process. Poinsettia prepares for the dormant period, accumulating nutrients for wintering.

You can understand that the florist is doing something wrong by analyzing the appearance of the plant.

Diseases and pests typical of a flower

The pungent juice of poinsettia repels many pests, but some are not afraid. And due to the mistakes of the grower, dangerous diseases can develop.

Table: what diseases and pests the poinsettia suffers from

Disease or pest How does it manifest itself outwardly? Struggle Prophylaxis
Mealybug Whitish bloom, similar to dirty cotton wool, at the base of the shoots, on the stalks, from the inside of the leaf plate, leaves sticky to the touch; deformed shoots and flower buds. In especially severe cases, the plant seems to be sprinkled with flour.
  • removal of visible traces left by a pest, a cotton pad or a stick dipped in thick soap suds;
  • watering and spraying with a decoction of cyclamen tubers, tincture of field horsetail, calendula (once a week until the characteristic signs disappear completely);
  • treatment with Aktara, Calypso, Mospilan, Fitoverm, Confidant, Biotlin, Ponche, Aktellik, Fazalon, Aplaud (at least 3 sprays every 7-10 days, it is advisable to change the drug).
  • regular inspection of indoor plants, preferably with a magnifying glass;
  • maintaining air humidity at a level comfortable for the flower;
  • wiping the leaves with a damp sponge or cloth at least once a week;
  • spraying the flower with garlic or onion infusion (every 12-15 days).
Spider mite Thin, almost imperceptible filaments, entwining petioles, bracts and twisted dried leaves, rapidly growing discolored, translucent areas on the leaf blade. With a massive defeat, accumulations of pests appear on the tips of the leaves - you can see the movement of this mass.
  • applying a soap-alcohol solution to the leaves, after 25–30 minutes - a hot (40–45 ° C) shower;
  • spraying the plant, soil and pot with acaricides (Anti-tick, Agravertin, Aktofit, Neoron, Vermitek, Apollo, Sunmite) and placing in a tightly tied plastic bag for 2-3 days - 3 treatments with an interval of 5-6 days.
  • daily spraying of the plant and raising the air humidity indicator in other available ways;
  • "Quartzing" (weekly irradiation with a special lamp);
  • spraying with infusion of tobacco chips, onions, garlic.
Whitefly Small whitish moth-like insects fly over the flower, it is enough to slightly touch it. Leaves curl, deform, turn black, stems become thinner.
  • vacuuming the plant early in the morning or late at night;
  • placing sticky tape for catching flies, homemade traps made from pieces of bright cardboard, smeared with glue, honey or petroleum jelly next to the pots;
  • flower treatment with Spark Double Effect, Tanrek, Admiral, Aktara, Aktellik, Fury, Fufanon, Decis, Inta-Vir, Oberon (the “course of treatment” lasts 4–8 weeks);
  • watering with infusion of onions, garlic;
  • spraying the flower with any aerosol (for example, Dichlorvos), sealing for 3-4 hours (then a shower is required).
  • quarantine for newly acquired plants;
  • placing indoor flowers and bouquets (especially roses and chrysanthemums) as far away from each other as possible;
  • weekly spraying with infusions of any herbs with a pungent odor, needles, dry citrus peel.
Colonies of small black-brown insects, similar to flat worms with legs, settle on the wrong side of the leaf. It takes on an unnatural silvery-white hue, and there are also subtle "scratches" and small beige dots. The stems are deformed, the leaves dry.
  • removal of leaves most severely affected by the pest;
  • extraordinary warm shower;
  • spraying a flower and watering the soil with an infusion of onions, garlic, marigold greens, yarrow, Aktara, Fitoverm, Spintor, Inta-Vir, Karate, Apache, Dantop, Gaupsin and sealing for 1-2 days (or put a small container with kerosene, turpentine).
  • maintaining high humidity and a comfortable temperature for poinsettia;
  • avoidance of excessive overcrowding of plants;
  • placing sticky tape for catching flies next to indoor flowers.
Grayish-white spots appear on the leaves, then become covered with a long gray "pile" with small black dots inside. The fungus spreads quickly, the plant dries up sharply, dies. Some parts turn black and fall off.
  1. at an early stage - replacement of water for irrigation for 2-3 weeks with 1% solution of any fungicide (Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate, HOM, Kuprozan, Skor, Oleocobrite, Oxyhom);
  2. transplanting the plant into a new clean sterilized pot with a complete replacement of the soil and trimming all at least a little affected parts;
  3. processing by Teldor, Horus, Switch.
  • regular ventilation of the room;
  • timely removal of dry leaves, bracts, peduncles, pest control;
  • minimization of damage during the trimming process and processing of cuts;
  • using only disinfected tools;
  • avoidance of excess nitrogen in the soil;
  • spraying every 3-4 months with Bayleton, Fundazol, Topsin-M.
Discolored "watery" areas on losing tone, drooping leaves, a dark "mesh" in the leaf tissue, clearly visible in the light, and a black ring on the cut of the shoot. The affected plant dries quickly, the aerial part dies off.
  • when the plant is slightly affected - transplant (the same as with the defeat of gray mold)
  • you can try to save badly damaged poinsettia by leaving cuttings, but only if their cut is completely clean;
  • replacement of water for irrigation with solutions of the preparations Maxim, Discor, Vitarom, Previkur, Agat-25K, Alirin-B, Raek for 4–6 weeks.
  • correct (without redundancy) watering;
  • regular ventilation; avoiding crowding of flowers;
  • soil treatment before planting with Trichodermin, Trichovit, Fitolavin.

Photo gallery: diseases and pests from which poinsettia suffers

It will be necessary to fight not only with adult individuals of thrips, but also with larvae hiding in the ground. Gray rot is a dangerous disease that can be treated with difficulty and only in the early stages, therefore special attention should be paid to preventive measures. Fusarium is difficult to detect until it is too late - how usually the plant withers in a matter of days

How the plant reproduces: by seeds or cuttings

Growing poinsettia from seeds is a rather lengthy and troublesome process. In addition, seedlings rarely retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant. Therefore, this method is interesting mainly for professional breeders.

Propagation by cuttings

The easiest way to propagate a poinsettia is to root a stalk. There will be no problems with planting material, because every year the plant is subjected to radical pruning. Flowering can be expected next winter - about 1.5 years after planting.

Cuttings are taken only from perfectly healthy poinsettias. The recommended length is 12-15 cm (there must be at least 5 internodes).


This plant belongs to evergreen shrubs. Part of the Euphorbia family. From Latin, the name translates as the most beautiful euphorbia, popularly this flower is called the Christmas star. Mexico and Central America are considered the birthplace of growth.

An adult plant growing in the tropics can reach a height of three meters. At home, it looks like a bush, with a maximum height of 40 cm. The elliptical leaves have jagged edges and are dark green in color.

The flowers of the most beautiful milkweed are small yellow rosettes, around which red bracts grow (these are not flowers). Recently, scientists have bred new varieties of this plant, as a result, in stores you can find varieties with yellow, pink, white, two-colored bracts.

When planning to care for poinsettia at home, you need to know a number of features and recommendations that will help you wait for this beautiful plant to bloom.

Growing secrets and some photos of the indoor poinsettia flower



The Christmas star usually blooms at Christmas, which is why it got its name. Often, after the end of the flowering period, the poinsettia's leaves fall off and it may die. You can avoid this, as well as make sure that the most beautiful euphorbia will grow in the house for many years and you can please your owners, knowing some of the features of its cultivation:

  • at a time when the leaves begin to fall, it is necessary to almost completely stop watering the plant, no longer feed it, cut the stems at a height of 15 cm from the ground level, remove to an unlit place and do not rearrange it in the sun until the end of spring;
  • in late spring (early May), the flower should be transferred to the sun, begin to water and feed abundantly;
  • when the flower begins to grow, it is transplanted into new soil;
  • in order to provoke the future process of bud formation, the plant is removed from October every night to a dark place or covered with a box. So the poinsettia should spend at least 14 hours a day;
  • from the moment the bracts appear, the flower is no longer hidden in a dark place, but simply monitored for regular watering;

At the moments when the plant secretes its juice, you need to be extremely careful, because it is poisonous. It can provoke the appearance of allergic reactions, if it gets into the eyes, cause blindness, getting into the oral cavity, provoke gag reflexes. To avoid these negative consequences, care for the most beautiful milkweed should be carried out with rubber gloves.

Suitable temperature for growing a poinsettia plant

Poinsettia is very susceptible to temperature changes

You can avoid diseases and regular flowering of the Christmas poinsettia flower if you create optimal temperature conditions for it. Let's take a look at some of them:

  • the flower most of all loves to grow in a temperature regime from 18 О С to 25 О С;
  • with the appearance of flowers, it is better to lower the temperature to 14-16 ° C;
  • during the rest period, it is generally better not to warm the air higher than to 14 ° C (the minimum indicator should be 12 ° C);
  • the location of the flower should be quiet and free of drafts.

Lighting

The best place for the growth and development of this plant is on the windowsill. It should be well lit, but at the same time, it is forbidden to keep the Christmas star in direct sunlight. Otherwise, the leaves on it will begin to brown and fall off.

Poinsettia can shed its leaves due to improper watering.

In winter, the plant needs to be watered only when the soil begins to dry out almost completely. In extreme heat, humidification should be carried out daily in small quantities (without flooding the flower, avoiding stagnation of water in the pan).

During the flowering period, it is necessary to sprinkle the most beautiful milkweed with slightly warm water every 3-4 days, which is pre-defended for at least 1 day.

By adhering to these simple rules of proper watering, you can forever avoid dropping the milkweed of its most beautiful leaves.

Top dressing

The flower is fed twice a month, starting in spring. This process continues until autumn. Mineral fertilizers are used as top dressing. During flowering, agents containing potassium are introduced into the soil. However, this is not necessary, because many believe that flowering is a process that is best left out of the way.

Potted flower transplant poinsettia

With the end of the dormant period in late April or early May, the plant is allowed to transplant. An indicator for this is the newly emerging green leaves on the stems of the plant. A drainage layer is laid at the bottom of the pot (its size should be only a few centimeters larger than the previous one). The soil should be practically non-acidic.

Leafy soil, peat, clay-sod, as well as sand are introduced into the soil, while observing the ratio of 2: 1: 3: 1.

In order for the plant to better take root in a new place and not hurt, it is carefully transferred to a new pot, keeping the remnants of the previous soil on the roots.

How to prune a poinsettia flower

The most beautiful euphorbia is cut off 15 cm from the soil level when its leaves begin to turn yellow. Then this process is repeated immediately after transplanting with the moment of the appearance of new shoots. Such actions are performed so that the flower turns out to be as beautiful as possible and has the correct shape. In addition, such actions will make the plant bloom again.

Weak, pruned shoots are used as propagation of this plant.

Dormant period

This period begins from the moment the flower sheds its leaves (in this case, this is a normal process for the plant). This usually happens in early April. Then the flower is removed to a dark, cool place and kept there until the beginning of May (this is the time when the plant hibernates).

Reproduction of poinsettia at home

At home, poinsettia propagates only by cuttings.

At home, it is not possible to achieve that the plant reproduces by seeds. Therefore, the flower is planted by using cuttings. They are obtained from the shoots cut off at the end of spring (the cut should be at an angle). Their length should not exceed 7-10 cm. At the same time, make sure that there are at least 4 or 6 large buds on the cuttings.

The resulting cuttings are freed from poisonous juice. To do this, they are placed in warm water for 25-35 minutes. Then the sections are treated with a special agent that stimulates the formation of roots. Prepare the soil in containers, which should consist of the following components:

  • sand;
  • dry manure;
  • humus.

At the same time, the soil should be well moistened. Having planted cuttings in it, the container is removed to a bright place (not directly in the sun), covered with a film and kept at a temperature of 24 ° C to 28 ° C. In order not to provoke moldy soil, it is periodically ventilated by raising the protective polyethylene. Every 3-4 days it is gently watered or sprayed with a spray bottle.

A month after the cuttings are completely rooted, they are freed from the film and allowed to stay at temperatures up to 16 ° C. In September-October, young flowers are planted in pots, the diameter of which should be 20 cm. Such a plant will be able to bloom only after a year.

Diseases and pests

Leaves may dry out and turn yellow, due to a sharp temperature drop

Among the most common pests of the Christmas star are scale insects, mealybugs, thrips, whiteflies, and spider mites. In this case, a white mass resembling wax can form on the surface of the leaves, as well as whitish, unpleasant spots.

Special chemical compounds or folk remedies can destroy pests.... Here are some of them:

  • a soap solution, which should be used to wipe the infected leaves of the flower every week, will help get rid of the scale insects and aphids. After that, the plant is well rinsed under clean water;
  • mineral oil will help to destroy the worms.

If folk remedies do not immediately give the desired results, then you need to immediately go to the store for special protective equipment in order to prevent the poinsettia from yellowing.

Diseases include:

  • gray rot, which appears due to excessive watering of the plant, as well as high humidity. Signs of its presence are gray, fungal bloom on the stems and brown spots on the leaves. Such drugs as "Skor", "Celandine" and "Fundazol" will help to defeat it;
  • fusarium causes complete death of shoots;
  • mealy rot covers the flower with bloom. It is white and kills the plant. "Topaz" and "Fitosporin-M" will help to destroy it.

Very often at home, there is a yellowing of the poinsettia. This is due to the strong flooding of the flower, which is in a cool room for a long time. Such conditions cause root rot, which is manifested by changes in the appearance of the leaves. At the same time, the leaves can turn yellow as a result of very poor watering. As a result, the Christmas star is struck by a tick, which turns the leaves yellow.

Following all the recommendations and advice of experts, carefully watering the flower, avoiding waterlogging, creating optimal temperature regimes for it, as well as pruning it in time, the poinsettia will bloom every year, delighting you with its flowers and colorful leaves.

Watch the video on how to make this plant bloom.

The Christmas star is a representative of the Euphorbia family. The plant is also called the most beautiful milkweed, poinsettia and "Star of Bethlehem".

The birthplace of the flower is Mexico.

The dark green or brown stem of the poinsettia is glabrous and erect. Under natural conditions, the Christmas star reaches 3 meters in height. At home, it does not grow above half a meter.

The plant produces a poisonous white sap. But for people, he does not pose a particular danger. In the worst case, irritation and pain in the abdomen can occur.

Poinsettia blooms with small yellow flowers, which are located on red star-shaped bracts. Bracts can be red (most commonly), pink, cream, yellow, white, and variegated. For their shape, the plant was named a star. Poinsettia is called the Christmas star because its flowers bloom at Christmas.

The Christmas star flower looks very beautiful. How to care for a plant so that it constantly delights the eye with its unusual flowering?

Christmas Star Care

Poinsettia requires a lot of light. Nevertheless, it should be protected from direct sunlight. Therefore, the best choice for a flower will be a western window.

Do not expose the plant to drafts. Best of all, poinsettia will feel at a temperature of 200 degrees in summer, and at 150 in winter.

The Christmas star is watered after the topsoil is dry. Water stagnation should not be allowed.

The plant needs feeding twice a month. Mineral fertilizers are used for it. In winter, you do not need to fertilize the poinsettia. No feeding is required during flowering. She can stop flowering.

It is necessary to cut this indoor flower several times a year:

  • after the plant has faded, its branches are cut in half;
  • after transplanting into new soil, remove weak and excess branches;
  • elongated and bare stems are cut during growth.

In November, the Christmas star is covered with black film or placed in a dark room for 14 hours a day. This regime is maintained for two months.

Thanks to this care, it will be possible to get a lush bloom of poinsettia, lasting about three months, just in time for the New Year and Christmas.

In early March, the Christmas star will bloom and begin to shed its leaves. At this time, its stem is cut off, leaving close to 10 centimeters. The plant is placed in a cool place with a temperature of 10-150C. For this purpose, you can use the basement.

In early May, the plant is transferred to an apartment and transplanted. For planting, take soil containing an increased amount of humus, or a mixture that includes turf, peat and sand in a ratio of 3: 1: 1. It is imperative to prepare drainage.

The most common pest of poinsettia is the whitefly. Sometimes the plant is attacked by spider mites, mealybugs, mushroom gnats.

How does the Christmas star multiply?

Reproduction takes place using cuttings that remain after pruning. Root them by placing them in wet peat or moss. It is better to cover the stalk with a glass jar to ensure high humidity and a favorable temperature.

After the roots appear, young plants are transplanted into the ground.

Pay attention to this stuff -

Growing difficulties

Often the leaves of the flower begin to wilt and crumble, which indicates insufficient or excessive watering.

Sometimes poinsettia sheds leaves without prior wilting. The reason for this behavior is an excess of moisture, lack of lighting, temperature changes or the presence of a draft.