Vacuum cleaner zan 1216 motor control circuit. Vacuum cleaner device: main components, classification. Smoke, fire, short circuit

A person very quickly gets used to good things, so anyone who has ever tried to use a vacuum cleaner is unlikely to want to take up a broom again. However, like any technique, vacuum cleaners tend to break down at the most inopportune moment. Not every housewife is capable of single-handedly troubleshooting a Samsung, LG, Phillips or other vacuum cleaner. Nevertheless, there are breakdowns that can be eliminated on their own without resorting to the help of specialists.

Diagnostics

Before you start repairing a Samsung vacuum cleaner with your own hands, you need to try to determine what exactly broke there. Correct diagnostics is very important, because the speed and cost of repair directly depends on it. The design of the vacuum cleaner is quite simple, therefore, before paying money to the master, you can try to fix the malfunction yourself.

It should be noted that a breakdown is far from always associated with such a malfunction can be determined by the sound of a working unit. If the vacuum cleaner hums, whistles, makes intermittent sounds and throws out dust from itself, most likely you are out of luck - the engine is "covered". But it happens, for example, that the vacuum cleaner seems to work, but the garbage pulls badly - then, most likely, the hose or filters are to blame. Let's take a closer look at some of the typical malfunctions of this very useful home assistant.

Weakly "pulls"

As we have already found out, if the vacuum cleaner does not draw dust well, then you, most likely, will have to repair the vacuum cleaner hose (you have Samsung, or products of a different brand - it does not matter). First of all, make sure that nothing is stuck in it - foreign objects caught in the hose greatly reduce the draft. Simply put, peek into the hose and remove the blockage.

If you are sure that the hose is not clogged, carefully inspect it and check the integrity of the corrugation. Very often, housewives are too lazy to bend over to move the unit from place to place, and they simply drag it around the room "by the tail". From this, gaps arise between the turns of the corrugation, as a result of which the thrust is reduced. If you find a gap, take duct tape and wrap the gap tightly in several layers. Of course, such repairs will not be enough for a long time, and over time the hose will still have to be replaced, but for some time it will still serve you.

If everything is okay with the hose, check all filters and waste bag - they may be heavily soiled. Clean the filters thoroughly and replace the bag with a new one. Also, do not forget to check the position of the power regulator - it may be out of order. Return it to the desired position.

The vacuum cleaner does not collect small debris

In this case, do-it-yourself repair of the Samsung vacuum cleaner will consist in a thorough examination of the brush. Make sure it is low enough to contact the floor - if not, pull it out all the way. Examine the brush itself - its fibers are probably too worn out and will need to be replaced.

Turn on the vacuum cleaner and inspect the brush in working order - if it does not spin or rotates weakly, you will have to work hard. In the first case, the bearings are probably jammed. Disassemble it and check if there are threads or hair wrapped around the ends, remove them. In the second case, a weakening of the brush belt is possible - disassemble it and change the part to a suitable one for your model. Please note: although spare parts for Samsung vacuum cleaners are very often interchangeable for different modifications, it is best to choose the right one for your model.

The unit does not turn on at all

If you plugged the unit into an outlet, and nothing happens, then the repair of the Samsung vacuum cleaner (with your own hands, of course) should be started with a thorough examination of the electrical part of the device. First, make sure that the outlet itself is working - to do this, plug in another, known working device. If everything is in order - inspect the vacuum cleaner cord, look for scuffs, cracks, kinks or other damage. Disassemble the plug and carefully inspect the connection with the cord. Using a control or an electrical tester, "ring" the wire - it is probably burned out.

If all of the above actions did not give a result, it means that the brushes are to blame or the engine burned out. This part of the repair is already classified as more complex.

Smell during operation

The reason for such a breakdown may be a hose (for Samsung this is an ordinary case): dirt and debris often get stuck between the turns of the corrugation, which eventually begins to emit an unpleasant odor. Rinse the hose thoroughly with a jet of water, preferably under high pressure and using detergent. After that, be sure to dry the corrugation well before using it again.

Belt can be another source of unpleasant odor. Check its tension, tighten if necessary or replace with a new one. the rubber will disappear.

The vacuum cleaner vibrates and makes noise

It so happens that during seemingly normal operation, a strong noise is heard and the unit beats are observed. In this case, the repair of the Samsung vacuum cleaner (it is not always possible to manage here with your own hands, but it is still worth trying) will be as follows:

We disassemble the vacuum cleaner

Now we come to the most important and difficult breakdown - repair of the motor of the Samsung vacuum cleaner. To make sure of this, you need to disassemble the vacuum cleaner. Carefully remove all body protectors and locate the motor itself. Now, very carefully, observing all precautions, turn on the vacuum cleaner. If the cause of the breakdown lies in the engine, then most likely you will see a sheaf of sparks emanating from the engine. There may be several reasons for this:

wear of brushes;
turn-to-turn circuit in the winding;

So, in order. To replace the graphite brushes, first of all, it is necessary to unscrew and remove the plastic caps and remove the springs. We take out the brushes themselves and insert new ones. Next, we perform all actions in the reverse order - insert the springs, tighten the caps. In order for the brushes to work properly, they need to be ground in. This can be done by stretching a fine sandpaper between the brush and the collector. In this case, the abrasive of the sandpaper should be turned towards the brush and, as it were, comb it off a little.

If all the manipulations done did not lead to success, and the sparking of the engine continues when turned on, then the engine has shorted. It will not work to produce an independent Samsung vacuum cleaner (and any other one too) at home, you will have to carry it to the service.

Another reason for engine failure that you can try to fix at home is bearing replacement. It is very easy to check whether this should be done. Take the motor in your hand and gently shake it by the armature: if you notice that the shaft is wobbling from side to side, then replacing the bearing cannot be avoided. To do this, you need to remove the brushes and unscrew the screws that tighten the body. Then remove the motor covers one by one, using a small hammer and screwdriver to help yourself. Follow this procedure very carefully, otherwise you risk damaging the winding. Carefully, helping yourself with tools, remove the bearings (preferably both at once) from the armature shaft. Using a hammer and a tube of a suitable diameter, put the new bearings in place with extreme caution and assemble the motor.

One little tip: Before deciding to disassemble the engine, sketch out a wiring diagram. Believe me, this will come in handy.

Conclusion

As you can see, repairing any household vacuum cleaner can be very easy. The main thing is to remember that spare parts for Samsung vacuum cleaners or equipment from other manufacturers must be of high quality. And if you doubt your abilities even a little, it is still better to entrust the repair of equipment to professionals.

Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner repair is often economically justified. On the one hand, for example, a new motor-fan (see below) for an inexpensive Samsung or LG can be bought for less than 1,500 rubles, and rewinding a burned-out one will cost more than 3,000; replacement of bearings from - 1200. That is, it turns out to be more profitable to replace the entire assembly unit with your own hands, without delving into the mysteries of technology. And unfit according to the scheme "How much do you want?" - "How much you give" will be willingly taken for spare parts by individual masters. On the other hand, many vacuum cleaner malfunctions, for the elimination of which in the service will count from 500, can be eliminated in just minutes at home.

The purpose of this article is to tell readers what and how you can fix it yourself in a vacuum cleaner, how to determine the location and nature of the problem by external signs, how to get there, and what and how to do there to make the vacuum cleaner come to life. And what not to do to keep things from getting worse. Let's take the repair of a Samsung vacuum cleaner as a basis - they break down more often than others from careless use. But if yours is of a different brand, it doesn't matter - all vacuum cleaners are generally arranged in the same way and the methods for their repair are mostly the same.

Note: First of all, we do not touch on robotic vacuum cleaners - they "mentally" reset the warranty and block the control electronics if the access code was not entered before opening. Also, we do not touch on powerful floor-standing vacuum cleaners with an external dust collector or a vertical cyclone. Household models of both are still on sale, but the demand for them is steadily falling - they do not justify themselves in operation.

Why so much?

If we consider the nameplates of the old "Rockets", "Jupiters" and similar "from there", it will be found that the old ones consumed from the network at 350-450 W, and modern vacuum cleaners take 1200-2000 W. The intrigues of the damned bourgeois after the collapse of the USSR? No, everything is fair, the point is quite different.

More than 30 years ago, doctors noticed that hotel maids, theater cleaners, and other people who used vacuum cleaners were getting silicosis almost as often as miners. It turned out that ordinary dust in the dust collector is crushed, emitting very harmful particles with a size of 1-10 microns (microns). Micro-dust passes through the fabric of the dust collector without hindrance and rises into the air, and when the bag is shaken out, its concentration jumps over all conceivable limits, and so it lasts for hours.

Vacuum cleaners began to be made with 2-3 stage air purification, but additional motor power was needed to blow the microfilters. And customers all as one wanted vacuum cleaners to be quieter, lighter and smaller. That is, the more powerful motor had to be made more compact and supplied with a less efficient low-noise fan. The motor of the vacuum cleaner could no longer work without forced cooling, and its power had to be further increased to blow itself over. This is how the current limits of power consumption of household vacuum cleaners developed.

The role of filters and hose

Dusty air is harmful to a powerful small-sized electric motor no less than micro-dust to human lungs. As a result, without exception, all modern vacuum cleaners are built according to the scheme with full-flow cooling of the motor with purified air. If an old vacuum cleaner with a clogged bag simply pulled badly, then a modern one with clogged filters, a few minutes after starting, will switch to reduced power, or it will be turned off by an emergency thermostat, or it will burn out if there is no protective automatics (the cheapest) or it is muted (there are such craftsmen) ... Therefore, n Before disassembling the vacuum cleaner as described below, check all filters and, if necessary, replace or rinse and refill, see below. And also - a hose, also see below. The symptoms of a broken hose may overlap with much more serious symptoms.

Vacuum cleaner device

The vast majority of vacuum cleaner models are built according to 3 structural types:

With a dry dust bag;
With aquafilter (with air-water mist filter);
With non-replaceable cyclone dust collector.

Any of these types of vacuum cleaners can be equipped with attachments (brushes) for wet and dry cleaning. Attachments have their own characteristic malfunctions, which we will also deal with further.

With a bag

In a vacuum cleaner with a dry dust collector (on the left in the figure), the air passes first through the dust bag, then through the fine filter and the compartment of the motor fan. T. called. The HEPA filter removes particles of the order of 1 micron. The HEPA filter works only under pressure, and dust grains less than 3-5 microns do not affect the operation and durability of the motor, therefore the HEPA filter is installed after the motor fan, which in this case also works as a compressor.

Vacuum cleaners with a dry dust collector are the least prone to breakage, but their main drawback is disposable filters. The dust collector is made of propylene or silicone fiber and cannot be regenerated - the filled bag is thrown away and replaced with a new one. If you try to clean it, rinse it, or sew a cloth from an old vacuum cleaner to the previous neck, the formation of micro-dust increases so much that the thin and HEPA filter instantly clogs. If, however, you "cheat" with them in a similar way, it soon turns out that the repair of the motor is necessary, expensive and / or complicated.

The fine filter and the HEPA filter cannot be restored either, but in some cases it is still possible, see below. A characteristic sign of clogged filters is that the vacuum cleaner pulls poorly, buzzes strongly (without clanking and bouncing), and heats up. If there is an automatic system, after 1-15 minutes after switching on, it switches to a reduced power or stops. For example, over 65% of calls to the warranty service with inexpensive LG vacuum cleaners regarding such a "breakdown" are caused by a clogged HEPA filter. The user is shown where it is printed in small print that this is an out-of-warranty case and is amicably explained how much to pay. Meanwhile, replacing the filter in an LG vacuum cleaner is completely nonsense, see next. video.

Video: repairing a shutdown vacuum cleaner by replacing the filter (for example, LG)

With aquafilter

In vacuum cleaners in the aquafilter (in the center in the figure at the beginning of the section) filtration is 2-stage; in fact - one-stage. The flow of incoming air whips the water in the dustbin into a mist that immediately absorbs all the dust. A vortex of mist swirls under the front visor of the dust collector and the dust settles to the bottom. Further, the fog with the remnants of micro-dust passes through a fog filter, which also works as a HEPA filter, clean air without dripping moisture cools the motor and is discharged outside. A vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter consumes electricity by 20-25% less than a "dry one with a bag" of the same air performance and with the same vacuum.

If the aquafilter of the vacuum cleaner is promptly emptied, rinsed and filled up to the mark (or according to the norm in the instructions) with clean (better - distilled) water, then the fog filter serves without replacement up to 2-2.5 warranty periods. If you pour tap water into the dust collector by eye, it becomes clogged long before the end of the first. Symptoms are the same as before. case; replacement in the service is also paid. Self-replacement - open the cover of the vacuum cleaner, squeeze the latches of the filter cover, remove the old one, put a new one. A clogged mist filter cannot be recovered.

Note: The fog filter of a vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter almost always breaks down instantly if the vacuum cleaner is tipped over and liquid moisture gets on the fog filter. The same happens from overfilling with water in the dust collector.

Much more serious is another disease of vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter - their motor is blown with air saturated with water vapor. On average, the warranty replacement of a fan motor with burnt windings in vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter is twice as likely as in others, per product; Samsung vacuum cleaners of the VC / VCD series are especially sinful. Signs that the motor windings are "twisted" (short circuit, short circuit, between turns) - the vacuum cleaner hums strongly, pulls poorly, heats up. Doesn't reach full capacity; it is possible to knock out plugs or a circuit breaker. We check the motor for an orbit short circuit trace. way (the technique is also suitable for other types of vacuum cleaners):

We turn on the vacuum cleaner for a short time without a hose and with a dry aquafilter. A clang, knock is heard - you must first check the impeller and motor bearings, see below.
It works smoothly, but pulls weakly - cover the inlet (hose socket) with the palm of your hand. If the impeller is covered with dust, but the motor is working properly, its sound should change significantly. Remains the same or the change is not very noticeable - constant orbit short-circuit.
The motor seems to be working properly - remove the palm and wait 5-10 minutes (no more!). The thrust fell, the heating began; possibly knocked out the plugs - intermittent coil short circuit from heating.
We are looking on the Internet or in any other way, how much does a new compressor (motor-fan) cost for a given model of a vacuum cleaner for replacement.
We cope with the service or with the masters - such and such a model, a suspicion of a coil in the motor, what will the bulkhead with rewinding cost?
We decide whether to send for repair or replace the compressor with our own hands, see below.

Note: also about the repair of the Samsung VC6015V vacuum cleaner at 1500W, you can watch the video below:

Video: disassembling and repairing a vacuum cleaner with an aquafilter (for example, Samsung VC6015V)

With cyclone

A vacuum cleaner with a cyclone dust collector can be recognized by the transparent "glass" in front, see fig. on right. The masters say to each other: well, they brought me another glass. What happens in general no more often than with "dry bags". It's fair to say.

The main advantage of cyclone vacuum cleaners is that there are fewer disposable filters that need to be bought and purchased, and containers with water that must be carefully filled and must not be tipped over. It would seem that the motor may be weaker; seemingly minimal resistance to air flow. But no. Since the dimensions and configuration of the cyclone of the vacuum cleaner are far from optimal based on the physical properties of the air, the motor, on the contrary, is needed by the same 20-25% more powerful than for the "dry with a bag".

In household cyclonic vacuum cleaners, almost exclusively double cycloning is used (on the right in the figure with the diagrams above); such trade names contain the designation twin. Shake out the filled dust container; no flushing is needed. The cleaned air then goes into the engine compartment and through the HEPA filter to the outside. Because the formation of micro-dust in the cyclone is minimal, the cyclone's HEPA filter lasts much longer.

Disease of cyclonic vacuum cleaners - mesh filter at the cyclone outlet; it protects the fan motor from large particles. In general, cyclonic vacuum cleaners perform well in rooms where the hostess (or maid) is daily walked with a vacuum cleaner. If the room is cleaned once a week or less, the strainer will quickly become clogged. Symptoms are the same as from a clogged HEPA filter. And it happens that a very powerful vacuum cleaner with a cyclone, for example, a Samsung 1800W (Samsung SC8431 twin) in a normal room does not reach full power until the mesh filter is removed at all, see next. video.

Video: repairing a cyclonic vacuum cleaner with a clogged mesh filter (for example, Samsung SC8431)

Removing the strainer is certainly not beneficial for the longevity of the motor or for air and room cleanliness. Suddenly the vacuum cleaner will tighten a brooch, badge, paper clip, any small solid object - you can count out money for a new motor-fan with peace of mind, because from the crumpled impeller, the balancing of the motor armature is instantly disturbed, see below. Samsung's of lower power with cyclones do not require mesh removal (they have it less often), but another characteristic defect appears - a broken lower bearing. However, replacing it is much easier, cheaper and possible on your own, for example, see the article on how to repair a Samsung 1600W with such a malfunction:

Video: replacing the bearing in a cyclone vacuum cleaner

Renovation: from simple to complex

However, the cases in the video above are quite serious and not so frequent. We will return to what happens to the motor and what can be done with it. As well as to the winding drum for the power cord - it sometimes gives external signs, like from a coiled short circuit and, in order to get to the drum, a complete disassembly of the vacuum cleaner is also needed. In the meantime, let's get down to what is available from the outside without tools - filters and a hose. Most often, the repair of a vacuum cleaner is reduced to them.

Filters

The "fine" and HEPA filters of the vacuum cleaner are similar, see fig. on right; the only difference is in the filter element. The frames of both are detachable (you need to tuck it into the slot on the side). The HEPA filter is simply pulled out of the slot using the handle. To remove the fine filter, it is usually sufficient to remove the dust bag. But in some models, the fine filter becomes available only with the motor, so see below.

Let us reveal a secret to the reader: filtering elements of autofilters are perfect for vacuum cleaner filter inserts (except for foggy ones). Moreover, they are made by the same manufacturers. With a fine filter, it is worse: it requires an engine air filter insert, which is not sold separately. But for the most expensive and quickly clogging HEPA filter, the cabin air filter insert of any SUV is suitable. The cheapest are UAZ ones, and they are no worse than the "cool firm".

One cabin filter is enough for several HEPAs, so open the original packaging by carefully cutting off the edge with scissors. Then the HEPA filter frame is pulled apart, the dirty insert is thrown away. The frame is washed, wiped dry. A piece is cut out of the cabin filter to the size of the frame, and the remainder is put back into the bag and the edge is sealed with tape so that the liner does not suck dust from the air. The cut piece is placed in a frame, glued along the contour (preferably from a glue gun), the frame is snapped into place - a new HEPA filter is ready.

Hose

If the hose sheath breaks, the vacuum cleaner behaves in the same way as with clogged filters, impeller or a small constant coil short circuit: pulls poorly, the sound of the motor changes, overheating is possible. It is simple to detect a malfunction: you just need to slightly pull the hose at the bar clip (the pipe on which the brush is mounted) or the connecting fitting (the thing with which the hose is inserted into the vacuum cleaner).

Most often, the hose breaks at the bar; in this case, it is possible to repair with improvised means and very quickly, literally without interrupting the cleaning:

Video: quick repair of a torn vacuum cleaner hose

Note: for the repair of the hose of a vacuum cleaner with cleaning functions, see further acc. section.

Much less often, the vacuum cleaner hose breaks in the middle. It is also possible to restore it very quickly, but a heat shrinkable tube (HERE) is needed. It is not necessary to sit HERE over the flame, you can warm it up with air from a household hair dryer at full power. How to repair a vacuum cleaner hose using a heat-shrinkable tube, see next. video.

Video: heat shrink vacuum cleaner hose repair

Disassembly

Now let's take on more complicated repairs, for which the vacuum cleaner needs to be disassembled. This may be necessary if the measures described above are taken, the malfunction has been eliminated, but the external symptoms of the malfunction remain. Before disassembling the vacuum cleaner, you must:

Disconnect it from the power supply.
Disconnect the hose.
In vacuum cleaners with a cyclone or aquafilter, remove and empty the dust container.

The internal structure of the vacuum cleaner is shown in more detail on the left in the figure:

Dismantling of the vacuum cleaner is carried out in the next. order:

Flip open the cover, pos. 1 in fig.
Loosen the latches or remove the screws that secure the cover hinge to the body, and remove the cover if the hinge is in front.
If the cover folds back, remove the HEPA filter, pos. 2.
Unscrew the screws under the HEPA filter.
Raise the carry handle. If a screw is visible underneath, remove it.
If the upper housing half mounting screws are visible from above (red arrow in key 2), remove them.
If the mounting screws are not visible from above, turn the vacuum cleaner over and inspect from below. Perhaps the screws holding the halves of the case are hidden under the hinged technological cover, pos. 3.
Remove the upper housing cover. Now there will be access to the motor, drum with cord and, possibly, to the fine filter, pos. four.
In some models of vacuum cleaners, after the housing connector, 2 more screws and a latch are found. By unscrewing the screws and pressing the latch, you can remove the tray with the motor and drum, pos. five.
The motor-fan is fixed in the compartment with long screws (shown by arrows in pos. A).
Do not twist the screw heads, they sit on the thread and in the motor! It is necessary to unscrew the nuts on the studs, then the motor will be removed, pos. 6.
The option of mounting the motor is likely, when instead of nuts on the threaded rods, the screw heads are visible behind it. This means that the impeller shroud is firmly seated, see below. In this case, unscrew the screws and take out the fan motor.
By removing the motor power connector from the socket, we get full access to the power cord drum, pos. 7.

Motor: what can be done

Electric motors of vacuum cleaners for the sake of compactness are made by collector motors with sequential excitation: a quiet and economical asynchronous engine of 1.5-2 kW will be the most of the vacuum cleaner and will pull several tens of kilos. To get an acceptable efficiency of the collector motor (on alternating current, generally speaking, it is very bad for electric machines), more or less decent performance of the impeller and reduce the noise of the vacuum cleaner, its motor is calculated at a high rotation speed, more than 10,000 rpm. In this case, balancing the rotor (which is called the armature in the collector motor) together with the impeller becomes of great importance. If, for example, you climb “out of business” into the compressor and slightly crush the impeller (or break the plastic blade), you “hit” a new compressor. Or, let's say, the vacuum cleaner rattled, but pulled. Then he stopped pulling. We disassemble, look - the bearing seats in the housing are broken. Again "hitalovo" for the same thing. Therefore, the immutable rules that must be followed, suddenly the vacuum cleaner junk and there is a suspicion of a mechanic, are as follows:

Suddenly, a hum, vibration, clanking, knocking, and other sharp extraneous sounds appeared in the operation of the vacuum cleaner - do not delay the repair, it will be more expensive.
If the vacuum cleaner heats up and, especially, smells of burnt insulation, turn it off immediately and see the previous page. paragraph.
Before reaching the motor, carefully check all possible sources of malfunction described above and the power cord drum, see below.
Make sure that the voltage in the sockets corresponds to that indicated in the passport or on the nameplate of the vacuum cleaner. Its household norm is 185-245 V, but powerful AC collector motors do not tolerate supply voltage fluctuations in such a wide range; for them, the norm (unless the manufacturer specifies otherwise) is 195-235 V.
Not knowing the ford, do not go into the water - take on the electromechanics, only knowing exactly what and how you will do there and where it will lead.

The internal structure of the fan motor of the vacuum cleaner is shown in pos. 1 fig. below, and in pos. 2 and 3 - variants of its execution. Pos. 2 - fastening with short screws at the back and the impeller casing on a tight fit (see also above) is used predominantly. in modern vacuum cleaners; the entire flow of air washes over the motor. Pos. 3 - the casing with a seal is fastened with stud screws, this is an old, but still quite common option. In this case, there are no problems: we unscrew the screws, pry off the casing with a screwdriver (it stuck on the seal), and the casing falls off by itself.

If the casing is on a tight fit, very, very carefully, without haste, we slowly tap its protruding back side until the casing slides off. It would be better to put a steel strip 3-4 mm thick: it, without weakening the impact, will distribute its force along the greater length of the side. Assembly, by the way, is in reverse order, only we tap the neck. If it is not there, then the unit is being assembled at a special stand. Then stop! We do not climb further ourselves.

But, for example, the casing is removed and we see the impeller, pos. 5. Dented or battered - new compressor, there is nothing to be done. At such a speed of rotation, if a pushpin gets into the impeller, the bearing seats will be loosened; what this means, see above.

Okay, the impeller is intact. We unscrew the fastening screws of the brush holders (shown with red arrows in the figure on the right) and take out the brush holders with brushes (green arrows). For now, we put aside and check the impeller: without brushes, it should rotate freely, easily, smoothly and make several turns from a sharp push with a finger. No - see below, but for now we will deal with the brush-collector assembly.

We check the cuts of the brushes, they should remain at least 1-1.5 cm in length and exactly the same. If a hole is visible in the middle of the end of the brush, and there is some kind of copper in it, that's it, the brushes are completely worn out. The brushes are changed only and only in complete pairs. If one is worn even a millimeter more than the other, the pair of brushes changes regardless of the degree of overall wear.

We clean the collector with chamois soaked in alcohol and wipe it dry with flannel. God forbid rubbing with a sandpaper! The collector lamellas of the vacuum cleaner motors are made of copper-plated aluminum. A thin layer of copper: ripped with sandpaper to white - a new compressor. The same if an annular groove is found on the manifold, which is burnt out from an all-round fire. A circular fire surrounds the collector if the vacuum cleaner is driven for a long time with clogged filters.

Now let's say that the impeller rotates tightly and / or not smoothly, it seems like it clings to something. In fact, it is removed with a pneumatic or hydraulic puller, but first you need to unscrew the nut holding the impeller with a left-hand thread. She sat down tightly: each time the vacuum cleaner is turned on, the inertia of the impeller tends to tighten the nut. Not having the skills to work with mechanics and electromechanics, it is better to stop at this and honestly tell the masters: I myself do not know how, but I am completely afraid to break it. But for amateurs who fully own the tool, we give a video on how to unscrew the vacuum cleaner impeller nut:

Video: unscrewing the vacuum cleaner impeller nut

If the nut gave way, you can try to remove the impeller by carefully turning the shaft to the right and left with your hands. The shaft can be fixed with a nylon cord: one end of it is tied to some hole, the shaft is tightly wrapped under the impeller with a cord, then the assistant pulls the free end of the cord all the time, and you are trying to rip off the impeller. But never jam the shaft with something hard! The silumin motor housing can crack, and then again - a new compressor. Some even manage to turn the shaft in the anchor, which is understandable to the mind, but with great difficulty.

Okay, the impeller has slipped. What for? To check the bearings. We drip 1-2 drops of kerosene or brake fluid into the gaps between the bearing races and their seats in the housing. We take a nail, rest its point against the hole on the shaft shank and try to push the anchor (see the figure below) forward. If you haven’t got used to it, it will work. the front bearing is larger than the rear. You can lightly tap the head of the nail with a light hammer, but very carefully - the silumin body may crack!

Checking the rotation of the bearings. It will be difficult to remove the unusable ones, because they are cold-loaded on the shaft journals, i.e. the armature is cooled before installing the bearings. You can try to warm up the bearings with a household hairdryer and, while hot, push the ends of the scissors together. There are other ways, see, for example, how to replace the motor bearings of the rather popular Samsung SC4325 in the next. video:

Video: replacing the bearing of the Samsung SC4325 vacuum cleaner

What is not necessary

"Recover" broken bearings with lithol, fiol, etc. The engine speed is not right for such a trick to pass. Also, you do not need to rewind the anchor yourself, because of the same rotation speed. After rewinding, its dynamic balancing is imperative. Not static in centers! If there is a specialist who rewinds with a guarantee, and will take a cheaper new compressor for it, you can try. And you don't need it yourself.

Drum

The power cord reel may have mechanical and electrical problems. Mechanical - breakage of the locking lever and the spring inside. In either case, the cord is either not pulled out or pulled back, in whole or in part. The lever is usually flat, L-shaped; a new one is made from a piece of metal, no special precision is needed. To get to the spring (and contacts, see below), you need to completely wind up the cord and disassemble the drum; all mounting screws are outside. Usually the mustache breaks off the spring. To bend the new one, the end of the spring is released, heating over a fire. When reassembling the drum, the spring is wound up 2-3 turns and the cord travel is checked. Not fully stretched - the initial plant needs to be weakened. The whole is not drawn in - on the contrary, to strengthen.

The power cord in the drum is usually connected to the vacuum cleaner assembly with sliding contacts. Symptoms of their malfunction - the vacuum cleaner works intermittently or does not turn on at all. It is possible that it coincides with the signs of a coil short circuit: it heats up, pulls poorly, carries burnt insulation. However, it is useless to check the contacts with a tester: it will not catch the intermittent point non-contact.

The drum contacts are checked with a homemade probe from any earphone and finger-type battery, familiar to radio amateurs. See figure for checkout:

The procedure is as follows:

With one probe (no matter which one) they stand on the drum contact pad (shown by red arrows).
With another probe, a corresponding pin of the power plug is found by clicking in the earpiece.
One person listens to what is in the earphone, holding the plug, and the other pulls the cord completely out of the loop and lets go.

There should be dead silence in the earpiece all the time. The slightest rustle - the drum needs to be touched, cleaned, straightened or changed contacts. The current through the earphone is only a few mA, but what will happen when the standard 5-10 A goes through the circuit?

Wiper blades

Vacuum cleaner malfunctions are also possible in active handpieces, i.e. performing cleaning functions. How their main varieties work and work is shown in Fig. below. In the wet handpiece (left in figure), the main source of failure is the user. The detergent pump is not designed to run dry. If you do not refuel the vacuum cleaner before cleaning, its motor will be damaged. The pump is structurally integral to the detergent tank and cannot be repaired. As for the pipes for supplying the detergent and its spray, they are outside, transparent and blockages in them are immediately visible. For cleaning, the feed tube is simply pulled from the fitting on the vacuum cleaner and sprayer, and simply put back on. Replacement is also not difficult: any plastic tube of a suitable diameter.

To see the device of the dry (sweeping) active tip (on the right in the figure), you need to remove the side covers sitting on friction or latches on the tip hinge (in the center in the figure) or directly on the sides of the brush. A low-power dust-proof brush motor rarely fails. A little more often the drive belt sags and slips (green arrow on the right in the figure) or the bristles of the throwing drum wear out; it should protrude beyond the bottom plane of the tip by at least 8-9 mm. The throwing drum cannot be restored; it is replaced with a new one. A break in the power supply wires of the throwing drum drive is also quite common. The wires run inside the hose; how to replace them in a fairly widespread vacuum cleaner Samsung SC-6573, see the plot:

Video: repair of wires in a hose with a regulator (Samsung SC-6573)

Finally about electronics

I must say that the electrical circuits of vacuum cleaners, except for the most expensive ones with microprocessors, are not particularly complicated. The electrical schematic diagram of the vacuum cleaner, which can be considered close to the typical one, is shown in Fig. below. The mains voltage in this case is 110 V. For a voltage of 220 V, the resistance R1 is increased to 150 Ohm and its power is up to 2 W. R5 takes 330 kOhm, VR1 and VR2 take 470-510 kOhm, R3 - 24 kOhm 2 W. The operating voltage of all capacitors is 630 V.

R3 sets the maximum power of the vacuum cleaner, it can be changed in the range of 12-47 kOhm. VR1 is an online power control, and VR2 is set to its minimum value, and you need to be careful here. The fact is that if the motor armature stops, every half-cycle of the mains voltage will flow through it a starting current equal to 3-5 working ones, and an expensive powerful triac (TRIAC according to the scheme) will burn out. Therefore, when setting up the circuit, the VR2 engine is first set to the minimum resistance, then a voltage of 175 V is given from the LATR and VR2 is very carefully, without overshoot, the motor speed is reduced to 700-800 rpm.

Thermal protection in such a scheme is also easy: parallel to C3, a 1-1.5 MΩ thermistor is connected (for a 220 V mains voltage) with a reverse logarithmic temperature characteristic. Physically, the thermistor must be in thermal contact with the motor housing, but electrically isolated from it. A "cold" thermistor (at room temperature) does not affect the operation of the circuit, but when heated to 70-80 degrees, its resistance will drop to 1-0.5 R3, C3 will charge slower for half a period, a low-power DIAC triac will open and open TRIAC later , and the motor power will decrease by half or four times. In approximately the same way, it is possible to modify most vacuum cleaners with power control, but without protective automation.

(No ratings yet)

In good hands, a vacuum cleaner can work for decades without major repairs, but for this you need to imagine its design and capabilities.

Modern household vacuum cleaners are divided into mobile and portable hand-held ones. Consider the device small handheld vacuum cleaner(fig. 1).

Its main part is a centrifugal air suction unit that creates a vacuum. It consists of an electric motor 1 and a rotor 2. The air is swirled by the rotor blades and, under the influence of centrifugal force, flows down to the edges of the disc. In the center, a vacuum occurs, and thanks to it, air and dust are sucked in through the hose 4. To prevent solid objects from entering the unit that could damage the rotor blades, a protective grill 3 is installed at the inlet.

The air washes the engine casing, simultaneously cooling it, and gets into the dust collector 5. Such vacuum cleaners as "Veterok", "Bumblebee", "Sputnik" operate on this principle. The disadvantage of this scheme is poor cooling of the engine, since it has to be placed in a special case to protect it from dust. Its advantage is its small size.

Mobile floor-standing household vacuum cleaners(Fig. 2) are usually arranged differently. Here the filter 1 stands in front of the air intake unit 2. Its fan, consisting of two rotors and one stationary disk with blades, is located at the bottom. In this design, the air is cleaned immediately upon entry, so it can be directed through special channels into the engine for intensive cooling of the windings. The cap 5 serves to protect against noise. Through the window 6, dust-free air is emitted.

The question may arise: why so much attention is paid to engine cooling? The fact is that the motor of the vacuum cleaner is 2-3 times lighter than a machine tool or fan with a similar power. This is achieved due to a significant increase in the current density in the windings, which means a sharp increase in the generated heat.

Therefore, the motor of the vacuum cleaner without cooling can only work for 10-15 minutes, and with cooling for 1-2 hours, and after that, if you do not turn it off, it will fail from overheating. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the operating mode specified in the operating instructions.

The degree of dustiness of the filter also affects the heating of the engine. we can conclude: the engine should be turned off more often and the filter should be cleaned.

Vacuum cleaner malfunctions can be roughly divided into two groups: electrical and mechanical.

Let's consider several cases. The vacuum cleaner is plugged in, the switch has clicked, but it does not work and does not make the slightest sound. Obviously, no current flows to the motor.

Imagine the current path: socket, plug, cord, and finally the motor windings. Let's start our search from simple to complex. First, let's check with any known working electrical appliance, preferably a table lamp, whether the socket is in order. If the lamp is on, inspect the plug and cord. We are looking for kinks, mechanical damage, we especially carefully inspect the places where the cord enters the plug and into the body of the vacuum cleaner. There should be a rubber ring on the body to protect the cord from abrasion and breakage. If an external examination does not work, we disassemble the vacuum cleaner and check with an ohmmeter for the presence of conductivity in the veins of the cord from the switch to the plug. We check the switch with an ohmmeter. Defective switches and cords are replaced.

Another case: the vacuum cleaner is plugged in, the switch is clicked, but there are interruptions in operation, arcing of the collector, which can be seen through the discharge hole.

The first thing to check is the carbon brushes 4.

With the wear of the graphite brushes and a decrease in the force of the springs pressing them against the collector, the sparking of the brushes, wear and overheating of the collector increase. Sparking at the edge of the brush is allowed no more than a filamentary weakly luminous line. Most often it happens that they wear out to the springs and steel springs are already in contact with the collector.

Worn brushes must be replaced.

To replace the brushes, remove the O-ring 8 and unscrew the screws 3. Take out the brushes by unscrewing the caps 7 and put new ones. Of course, all this is done with the vacuum cleaner disconnected from the network. New brushes are placed with bevels against the rotation of the collector.

A new brush must be ground to the collector so carefully that the entire end area of the brush touches the collector. How to do this, see Fig. 4.

This is done by pulling a fine grain between the brush and the collector with the abrasive side of the paper toward the brush. In order not to grind the edge, the sandpaper should fit the collector along half of its circumference (Fig. 4, but).

The gaps between the lamellas (plates) of the collector must be cleaned of graphite and copper dust with a sharpened match, and the collector should be wiped with cotton wool soaked in gasoline. If the collector, as a result of many years of work, has worn out so that the insulation between the lamellas begins to protrude above the contact surface of these lamellas, the collector must be extended, that is, the protruding inter-lamellar insulation must be cut off to a depth of 0.5 - 1 mm (Fig. 4, b). The chisel for cutting through can be made from an old hacksaw blade by sharpening its end at an angle of 30 - 40 °. After rising, the collector must be cleaned from burrs with the smallest sandpaper with oil with a rotating electric motor at low speeds (with a reduced supply voltage).

With prolonged use of the vacuum cleaner, the engine manifold becomes "dirty". For better brush contact, it is useful to wipe it with solvent or alcohol.

When the engine is running, a so-called varnish- a mixture of carbon brushes and copper collector. With the polish created, the brushes wear out the slowest. Grinding the manifold will destroy polish and the brushes will wear out quickly before new polish forms.

In this case, not the slightest scratch on the stator or armature turns should be allowed - this will damage the engine!

If you could not find your own brushes, feel free to take brushes that are large in size but always of the same brand as your relatives (brushes of the EG-8 brand are well suited for vacuum cleaners). The smaller size is easy to make with a fine-grained file. however, it should be remembered that the brushes should move easily in the brush holder, without the slightest jamming. A slight backlash is even useful - the brushes heat up during operation and the backlash will be removed.

Sometimes collector arcing occurs with normal brushes.

This can be caused by the following reasons: turn-to-turn short circuit in the armature or stator winding and increased load on the motor.

First of all, you need to check is there any increased load on the engine. This can be caused by a blockage in the air system of the vacuum cleaner or a seized engine. Older vacuum cleaners with a long service life almost always have a badly worn bearing on the armature on the fan side. Sometimes it is worn so badly that the armature starts to cling to the stator or the fan rotor clings to the case. And even if he does not cling, then with a strong bearing wear the air gap between the armature and the stator is constantly changing, which causes inrush currents and, accordingly, arcing. In addition, the air filter that separates the dust from the air does not filter the air from the dust 100%. And over time, micro dust particles adhere to the bearing grease and dramatically deteriorate its properties, even though closed bearings are installed there. Therefore, the force for turning the bearings increases significantly, the current and sparking increase. It is easy to check this - you need to take the armature by the bearing and twist it. In a bearing with dust instead of grease, a characteristic "crunch" will be heard.

To change the lubricant, it is necessary to remove the air suction unit from the body of the vacuum cleaner, remove the casing from the fan, unscrew the nut on the motor axis (the nut may have a left-hand thread), remove from the axis a set of alternating aluminum fan disks (with and without blades), sleep the bushings separating the disks one from the other. It is necessary to remember the order of the disks and bushings in order to install them in the exact same order during assembly.

Then you should unscrew the screws securing the clamping of the motor bearings, remove the covers. .Remove old grease and flush bearings with petrol, taking care not to get petrol on the winding. Fill the bearings with CIATIM-202 grease (available in auto parts stores). As a last resort, you can renew the lubricant without flushing. To do this, after filling the bearings with new grease, rotate the motor armature by hand for a few minutes so that the remnants of the old grease in the bearings are mixed with the new grease, then remove this grease and refill with new grease. Reassemble the air intake unit in reverse order. Make sure that the fan rotates freely by rotating the armature by hand.

If you turn the armature with good bearings, it should make at least 10-15 turns without crunching. The noise of the bearings should be even, there should be no backlash.

Turn-to-turn closure in the armature or stator winding, as a rule, it is characterized by very strong, as a rule, circular, sparking, most often together with the smell of insulation.
This is the most unpleasant case in the repair of vacuum cleaners.

First you need to try to determine where the turn-to-turn closure occurred. First of all, we inspect the anchor. The windings must be free of insulation swelling and blackening. Smell it, there should be no smell of burnt insulation. Inspect the collector, sometimes there are short circuits between the plates, this can be seen with the naked eye. If the above signs are present, then the case is bad. Vacuum anchors are hard to find. And rewinding anchors is a complicated matter and only very qualified wrappers can do it. Therefore, most often the service life of rewound anchors is short.

A short circuit in the stator winding is quite simple to determine - you need to remove the brushes and measure the resistance of the stator winding (OB) 1 and 2 (Fig. 3), as well as the resistance between the case and the windings. The difference between the resistances of winding 1 and winding 2 should be extremely insignificant, they should not ring to the body. If the difference is significant (> 10%), the one with the lower resistance is changed. It is easy to wind it yourself.

Do not which vacuum cleaners have increased sincerity It may not be caused by the fact that the traverse 7 has shifted relative to the body clockwise or counterclockwise. This usually occurs after repairs.

Therefore, when disassembling the vacuum cleaner, we must mark the relative position of the traverse of the brush holder and the body. If not marked, you can go the other way. We loosen the traverse and slowly turn it, fix it, achieving the least sparking. If there is an ammeter, turn the traverse, achieving the lowest no-load current. It is strongly not recommended to do this on the move - when starting, the engine will jump out of your hands and the traverse will shift by itself. Also, the engine cannot be started without a fan attached. The peculiarity of the vacuum cleaner motors is such that they always have to work under load. Otherwise, it may break from repairs.

When assembling the vacuum cleaner, check if you have left a nut, screw or other object in it: getting into the fan, they can completely destroy it. After all, the fan discs are made of duralumin with a thickness of about 0.8 mm.

Sometimes, during disassembly, the fan discs bend and then cling to the case. In this case, when assembling, a washer must be placed under one of the discs. In this case, the suction vacuum drops. Therefore, it is necessary to disassemble the vacuum cleaner very carefully and do not bend anything.

What are the most common mechanical failures?

The vacuum cleaner works, but the created vacuum has decreased, it sucks in dust very weakly. The engine emits a higher pitch than usual. This means that there is an obstruction in the path of the sucked air. There may be a foreign object in the hose. It can be removed by attaching a hose to the outlet. If this does not help or the design of the vacuum cleaner does not allow this, the hose is cleaned with a long wooden strip with a rounded end or a piece of thick wire with a hook.

Table 1 The main malfunctions in vacuum cleaners and how to fix them.

Vacuum cleaner malfunction type	Remedy
The vacuum cleaner does not work or works intermittently	Check the wall outlet by plugging in a table lamp
	Check the connecting cord and plug. For testing, use a test lamp, probe or ohmmeter. Connect the breakage point and carefully insulate.
	Check the vacuum cleaner switch. If necessary, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and inspect the switch. Strip and bend the contacts or install a new switch.
	Inspect carefully the contact connections of the electrical circuit, especially the places of rations and the presence of contacts in the places where the wires are connected.
	Check carbon brushes and engine manifold. If necessary, replace the brushes.
	Take out the carbon brushes, stretch their springs and install in their old place
	Take out the carbon brushes, wrap a cotton ball soaked in alcohol or cologne on the rod and clean the inner surface of the brush holders. Then put the brushes back in place. If the carbon brushes are less than 3 mm long, they must be replaced.
	Clean the engine manifold with a cloth soaked in alcohol or cologne. Use a match to remove coal dust between the collector plates
The vacuum cleaner works, but weakly sucks up dust. A higher pitch than usual is emitted from the engine.	See if a foreign object has entered the hose. Connect a hose to the outlet and turn on the vacuum cleaner. If that doesn't work, clear the hose with a long, rounded stick.

Vacuum cleaners are more likely to fail than other household appliances due to the use of high-speed collector motors. The engine is cooled by the flow of outgoing air and therefore the vacuum cleaner can work only 10-15 minutes without cooling, and 1-2 hours with cooling. After that, if you do not turn off the vacuum cleaner, it may fail. in this regard, when using a vacuum cleaner, you should adhere to a certain mode of operation. The degree of dust content in the filter also affects engine heating. For the appliance to work well, you need to clean the filter regularly and store the vacuum cleaner in a dry place. It is not recommended to wash and wet the filter, as this reduces the throughput of the unit, which can cause it to overheat.

The vacuum cleaner requires constant maintenance: it is necessary to change the lubricant of the motor bearings at least once every 2 years and check the condition of the graphite brushes of the motor annually.

Imported vacuum cleaners differ from ours only in ergonomics and design. The iron inside is exactly the same. So all of the above applies to them as well.

The vacuum cleaner is a reliable and durable device. There are known flawlessly working copies released before the Great Patriotic War.

The design and circuit of the vacuum cleaner provides for the following main devices: an indicator (signaling device) of filling the dust collector with dust or a device for automatically turning off the engine when the dust collector is filled; a device for regulating the power of the electric motor; automatic cord winding device; Replaceable single-fill paper filters or dust compactor; air flow control device.

Modern vacuum cleaners also have a built-in filter in which all the dirt and dust accumulates after cleaning the room

For proper engine operation, the vacuum cleaner has a noise suppression circuit on the power chokes. They are used to smooth out high frequency network ripple. After the chokes, the voltage goes to the smoothing capacitor and only then the smoothed voltage is fed to the motor. The condenser is also designed to smoothly start the vacuum cleaner motor

Almost every vacuum cleaner has a special compartment into which the vacuum cleaner's network cable goes, the length of this cable is about 3 meters

As part of expensive models of vacuum cleaners, there is an electronic control system circuit, a touch-sensitive power regulator and a switch for engine operating modes. The vacuum cleaner should also be equipped with small wheels for easy operation and movement. The diagram shows: 1 - dust bag, 2 - inlet filter, 3 - outlet filter.

Air suction unit design

The air-intake unit consists of upper 2 and lower 1 housings, shield 5 and an electric motor with a fan device 15. The armature 13 of the electric motor is mounted on two bearings 4 n 9, covered with covers 3. 8. The armature rotates to the left. The stator 12 of the electric motor is fixed on the shield 5 and the upper case 2 with screws 6. In the upper part of the unit on the shield 5 there are brush holders 7 of carbon brushes 11. The brushes are closed with a cap 10. In the lower part of the unit, on the armature shaft, there are impellers 14 of the fan device and secured with a nut sixteen.

The vacuum cleaner does not work or works intermittently- Check the socket outlet by plugging in a table lamp. Check the connecting cord and plug. For testing, use a test lamp, probe or ohmmeter. Connect the breakage point and carefully insulate. Check the vacuum cleaner switch. If necessary, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and inspect the switch. Strip and bend the contacts or install a new switch. Inspect carefully the contact connections of the electrical circuit, especially the places of rations and the presence of contacts at the points of wire connection. Check carbon brushes and engine manifold. If necessary, replace the brushes. Take out the carbon brushes, stretch their springs and refit them. Take out the carbon brushes, wrap a cotton ball soaked in alcohol or cologne on the rod and clean the inner surface of the brush holders. Then put the brushes back in place. If the carbon brushes are less than 3 mm long, they must be replaced. Clean the engine manifold with a cloth soaked in alcohol or cologne. Use a match to remove coal dust between the collector plates

Vacuum cleaner care recommendations... Vacuum cleaners are more likely to fail than other household appliances due to the use of high-speed collector motors. The engine is cooled by the flow of outgoing air and therefore the vacuum cleaner can work only 10-15 minutes without cooling, and 1-2 hours with cooling. After that, if you do not turn off the vacuum cleaner, it may fail. in this regard, when using a vacuum cleaner, you should adhere to a certain mode of operation.

The degree of dustiness of the filter also affects the heating of the engine. For the appliance to work well, you need to clean the filter regularly and store the vacuum cleaner in a dry place. It is not recommended to wash and wet the filter, as this reduces the throughput of the unit, which may cause it to overheat. The vacuum cleaner requires constant maintenance: it is necessary to change the lubricant of the motor bearings at least once every 2 years and annually check the condition of the graphite brushes of the motor

Schematic diagram of the vacuum cleaner LG-V2600, LG-V2620, LG-V2800, LG-V3300, LG-V982, LG-VC7050nt, LG-v-c7070ct

Philips FC8600, HR-6836, HR-8003, hr8731, hr8733, hr8735, hr8745, hr8765, hr8837, hr8838, hr8847, hr8948, hr8978

Vacuum cleaner schemes Samsung SC6657, VC-7700, vc-h110, vc-h113, vah-1113, vc-h114

"Veterok-4" works on the principle of a vacuum cleaner, the diagram of its assembly drawing is shown in the figure:

Vacuum cleaner malfunctions can be roughly divided into two groups: electrical and mechanical. Let's consider several cases. The vacuum cleaner is plugged in, the switch has clicked, but it does not work and does not make the slightest sound. Obviously, no current flows to the motor.

Another case: the vacuum cleaner is plugged in, the switch is clicked, but there are interruptions in operation, arcing of the collector, which can be seen through the discharge hole.

First of all, you need to check carbon brushes 4. Most often it happens that they wear out to the springs and steel springs are already in contact with the collector. In this case, they must be replaced.

To replace the brushes, remove the O-ring 8 and unscrew the screws 3. Take out the brushes by unscrewing the caps 7 and put new ones. Of course, all this is done with the vacuum cleaner disconnected from the network. new brushes are placed with bevels against the rotation of the collector.

After installation, it is necessary to grind for better contact of the brushes with the collector. How to do this, see the figure. In this case, not the slightest scratch on the stator or armature turns should be allowed - this will damage the engine! If you could not find your own brushes, feel free to take brushes that are large in size but always of the same brand as your relatives (brushes of the EG-8 brand are well suited for vacuum cleaners). The smaller size is easy to make with a fine-grained file. however, it should be remembered that the brushes should move easily in the brush holder, without the slightest jamming. A slight backlash is even useful - the brushes heat up during operation and the backlash will be removed.

With prolonged use of the vacuum cleaner, the engine manifold becomes "dirty". For better brush contact, it is useful to wipe it with solvent or alcohol.

When the engine is running, a so-called varnish forms on the collector surface - a mixture of carbon brushes and collector copper. With the polish created, the brushes wear out the slowest. Grinding the manifold will destroy polish and the brushes will wear out quickly before new polish forms.

Sometimes collector arcing occurs with normal brushes. This can be caused by the following reasons: interturn short circuit in the armature or stator winding and increased load on the motor.

First of all, you need to check if there is an increased load on the engine. This can be caused by a blockage in the air system of the vacuum cleaner or a seized engine. Older vacuum cleaners with a long service life almost always have a badly worn bearing on the armature on the fan side. Sometimes it is worn so badly that the armature starts to cling to the stator or the fan rotor clings to the case. And even if it does not cling, then with severe wear of the bearing, the air gap between the armature and the stator constantly changes, which causes current surges and, accordingly, arcing. In addition, the air filter that separates the dust from the air does not filter the air from the dust 100%. And over time, micro dust particles adhere to the bearing grease and dramatically deteriorate its properties, even though closed bearings are installed there. Therefore, the force for turning the bearings increases significantly, the current and sparking increase. It is easy to check this - you need to take the armature by the bearing and twist it. For a bearing with dust instead of grease, a characteristic "crunch" will be heard. We change such a bearing or, in extreme cases, wash it with a solvent and clog it with Litol-24 grease. If the bearing is closed, then you have to break the plastic protection on the inside (not in contact with air) and also rinse and replace the grease.

If you spin the armature with good bearings, it should make at least 10-15 revolutions without crunching. The noise of the bearings should be even, there should be no backlash.

The turn-to-turn circuit in the armature or stator winding is usually characterized by very strong, usually circular, sparking, most often together with the smell of insulation.

It is quite simple to determine a short circuit in the stator winding - you need to remove the brushes and measure the resistance of the stator winding (OB) 1 and 2, as well as the resistance between the case and the windings. The difference between the resistances of winding 1 and winding 2 should be extremely insignificant, they should not ring to the body. If the difference is significant (> 10%), the one with the lower resistance is changed. It is easy to wind it yourself.

Therefore, when disassembling the vacuum cleaner, we must mark the relative position of the traverse of the brush holder and the body. If not marked, you can go the other way. We loosen the traverse and slowly turn it, fix it, achieving the least sparking. If there is an ammeter, turn the traverse, achieving the lowest no-load current. It is strongly not recommended to do this on the move - when starting, the engine will jump out of your hands and the traverse will shift by itself. Also, the engine must not be started without a fan attached. The peculiarity of the vacuum cleaner motors is such that they always have to work under load. Otherwise, it may break from repairs.

What are the most common mechanical failures?

Regardless of the manufacturer and type of vacuum cleaner, the main difference lies in quality, power and design.

The most important thing in a vacuum cleaner is the electric motor, which creates a vacuum and, as a result, sucks dust and various particles through special filters through which only air passes.
In different types of such devices, these filters are different, and flasks and just bags and cyclone-type vacuum cleaners.

But it is the engine and, occasionally, the electronic power (rpm) control circuit that requires the most attention in this whole device.

Do-it-yourself engine repair is not difficult to carry out if the breakdown is simple and the engine is still running, but you can hear a heavy stroke of the motor (when turned off) or the engine starts to rattle or hum strongly, sometimes the vacuum cleaner gets very hot in a short period of time.

The heart of the vacuum cleaner, as we have already figured out, is the engine and, as a rule, the collector.
What is such an engine?
The motor is housed in a housing where the fan impeller blades are hidden. It is of the tangential type, where air is drawn in in the center and exits through the periphery and already exits through the rear filter.
The brushes in the engine are placed in special shafts made of brass, as a rule, this is ordinary carbon in the form of graphite. Over time, the brushes rub against the collector roller, their center grinds down and they become slightly semicircular, due to which the contact area with the collector pads increases. The brushes in their shafts are pressed by springs, creating the necessary pressure of the graphite, in the process, by the robots, to the collector. The brush will work until it wears off and the spring cannot properly contact the graphite with the manifold.
It is necessary to monitor the cleanliness of the collector shaft itself, clean it from carbon deposits if necessary and remove the oxide layer to a copper sheen.

The shaft is attached to the stator by two bearings of different sizes, as a rule, this is done in order to make it easier to disassemble it. The front is usually large and the back is smaller.

The shaft is carefully knocked out of the stator using any suitable tools. Then we look at the course of the bearings, because of the dusty robots they get clogged despite the presence of anthers. If necessary, the anthers are carefully removed with a thin screwdriver or an awl, washed with a jet of WD-pulleys, after which the balls must be lubricated, for example, with grease such as Litol-24 or EP-2, after which the boot is put in place and snaps into its grooves in the bearing itself.

Dismantling the vacuum cleaner

To start some kind of repair or prevention of the vacuum cleaner, you need to remove the case. Each model has its own methods.
First of all, all filters that impede access to the motor are removed, the housing screws are loosened, including secret ones (under the buttons, for example). Having unscrewed all the screws, you need to carefully try to disassemble the case, if this fails, take a closer look where there may still be latches or additional screws, if you do not pay attention to this, you can break the case.

Then the entire electrical installation is disconnected, as a rule, the connections are made on the connectors.
The plastic motor housing is unscrewed from the bed and the motor is then removed from its plastic housing.
In some models, it is simpler and the motor itself is fixed in the body of the vacuum cleaner in special rubber grooves-seals or screwed tightly to the general body of the vacuum cleaner.

Dismantling the electric motor of the vacuum cleaner

To disassemble the engine and remove the fan impeller first of all, we will remove the front part of the casing (above the impeller). We take a thin metal object, you can use a screwdriver and gently bend it off the side of the casing so that the screwdriver goes a little into the middle, then gently push the upper part of the casing out, as a result of which the entire impeller becomes available to us.

The nut on the impeller usually has a left-hand thread (but there are exceptions) We try to unscrew it by holding the impeller with our hand, if it scrolls and in this way it is impossible to unscrew the nut, there is one great way
So .. we take a good stranded wire with a cross section of more than 1.5 mm in dense rubber insulation (to prevent slipping). We push in such a wiring and wrap the collector shaft 2-3 times, turn to turn and stretch it in different directions, thereby fixing the shaft motionless.

It is most convenient to do this together, one person fixes the collector with the ends of the wire stretched to the sides, and the second unscrews the nut on the fan disk.
The method is very convenient and safe for fixing the anchor. In the same way, when reassembling, tighten the nut.

After removing the fan impeller, unscrew the housing screws, by this time the brushes should already be removed.

If necessary, the bearings are removed using a commercially available tool or special thread pullers. In especially severe cases, the bearing is "attached" tightly to the sleeve, a special hydraulic press is used to remove the bearings.

The main causes of vacuum cleaner breakdowns

bearings
brushes
fuse
network wire
no contact in the switch
motor winding, breakage or burnout of the winding (stator or rotor)
capacitor failure
breakdown of the electronic circuit of the power regulator

Drop in power and suction power.
The most common cause is either a clogged filter or a defective bearing.
It is necessary to clean the filter and check the operation again, also check the operation (draft) of the vacuum cleaner without filters, since it happens that ordinary cleaning of the filter does not help and it already needs to be replaced.
If the draft without filters does not give the same working draft, you will have to disassemble the vacuum cleaner, the impeller on it should easily turn with your finger without much effort. Additionally, we remove and inspect the brushes and clean the collector from carbon deposits using zero sandpaper or a piece of ordinary cloth.

In some cases, the tightness of the hose is broken, this can be both a violation of the integrity of the hose itself and the connecting pipes at the ends of the hose, the hose simply slips out of them a little.

The vacuum cleaner does not turn on.
If everything is fine with the voltage in the outlet, disassemble the vacuum cleaner and first of all inspect the fuse and the power cord, especially at the very end of the cord on the winding drum in the soldering points.
If there is a tester, we call for a contact.
The power button could break or the contact is simply broken in it, it sometimes gets clogged, again, with the help of the tester, we make sure that the button is working properly.
If all the elements have been called by the tester and the voltage comes to the engine brushes without any problems, and the brushes themselves are not erased, then most likely you will have to repair the engine expensively or simply replace it, since in most cases it is more expedient to install a new motor than to repair a tired old one by rewinding.

If the vacuum cleaner worked for a long time and does not turn on it is quite possible that the protective thermostat on the engine itself has worked as a result of overheating - in this case, there is nothing to repair, it will be enough to leave the vacuum cleaner to cool the engine.

The speed of the vacuum cleaner motor is not regulated.
The most common cause of such a malfunction is the breakdown of the triac in which the voltage through it is not regulated but freely passes through it without any control. It is possible that this element fails, and it is possible that there is a loss of contact on one of the legs of this element on the board.
By slightly pressing the speed regulator knob, you can make sure whether the regulator itself is in good order or the contact may be broken in it and the regulator slider does not contact its site.

The vacuum cleaner emits a foreign smell and hot air.
First of all, you need to make sure that the suction inlet is not clogged, inspect the hose, check the retraction force at the inlet and whether the sound of the engine changes when you plug the inlet with your palm. In case of satisfactory operation on the part of the suction system, we can assume that the engine is malfunctioning, but most likely the brushes.

The vacuum cleaner hums and rumbles- the reason for this action is the engine, and in particular its bearings. Most likely they need additional lubrication or, if there is a large shaft around their axis, they need to be replaced with new ones.

The cord is not tightened when the button is pressed or is constantly tightened during operation- malfunction of the winding drum, perhaps the spring has burst, weakened or, on the contrary, is too tight.
We inspect the pressure roller of the button and, if necessary, having removed the drum, we wind up or unwind the wire on the drum - changing the tension of the drum itself to the one we need.

Vacuum cleaner wiring diagram

As a rule, it is not complicated and is quite standard in most models.

Repair of washing vacuum cleaners (Karcher, Zelmer, Bork and others ..) is not much different from those described above. Their design has a pump that supplies water to the hose and the presence of a water filter at the inlet.
In models of vacuum cleaners with an aquafilter, thin streams of water sometimes break through at the junction of the hose and the body. Sometimes the pump gets clogged, and sometimes the electronics malfunction.

Not every person will be able to fix a vacuum cleaner, even with all the tools. But with this task it will be much easier to diagnose the cause of the malfunction and try to eliminate it, or if the cause is serious, contact the service center already knowing the reason, having the information set out in this article.