CNC cutting of plywood is done using software that allows you to create a drawing on a sketch for further cutting out contours with a laser. If it is impossible to equip your workshop with such a machine, you can stock up on a cutter for cutting plywood. Among the common options is a format cutting machine. CNC cutting of plywood will cost from 500 to 5000 rubles, based on the thickness of the material: 3 – 30 mm.
Selection of cutters, relative to the material for manufacturing
High-speed option - steel products with a high tungsten content. This allows them to acquire hardness and efficient processing of the material.
Carbide cutters for cutting CNC plywood. Spiral cylindrical parts with two cutting edges with rounded corners are used for light finishing, precision work.
Milling cutters with insert knives made of ceramic elements and diamond ensure precision machining. The use of prefabricated or soldered cutters allows for fine finishing operations.
Types of plywood cutting
- Straightforward. The peculiarity of the drawing or drawing is the predominance of straight lines and angles. A similar option is provided for preparing plywood for floor installation.
- Curvilinear CNC cutting for plywood furniture. The artistic and design version is represented by the creation of curved lines from arcs of circles and ovals. They serve to create yacht hulls and car models, providing artistic beauty to architectural elements.
- Mixed. In the combination of the first two varieties, the transition of straight sections in places is ensured into complex curves.
If the goal is to make a complex cut, it is necessary to select an improved program for implementing the drawing work.
Technology for cutting plywood sheets
A CNC machine for cutting 3-6 mm plywood ensures the use of laser equipment. The beam thickness of 190 microns (0.19 mm) ensures clear lines and contrast. The main difficulties of cutting lie in the heterogeneity of plywood. Defects that have a higher wood density are formed on the outer or inner part of the veneer sheet.
The laser does not burn through such places well, which ensures the formation of defects. If the laser has an emitter power of up to 180 W, it is suitable for cutting plywood with a thickness of 10 mm. Cutting plywood sheets is carried out at minimum speed. This affects the ignition of the material and the appearance of burning. Its removal is not always possible.
CNC milling machines do not affect the formation of soot. There are no limits regarding the thickness of the workpieces. Intensive milling ensures shorter cutting times. The thickness of cutting tools (mills) is 2-6 mm. The CNC algorithm is designed to process layouts in such a way that the cutter does not pass into those places where the spaces between the cut lines are smaller than the diameter of the cutter. This applies to internal corners or details. They come out uncut. This effect is called radius.
Attention! Milling plywood panels is rarely used to create miniature souvenir products.
Features of using a CNC milling and engraving machine
- Carrying out figured and shaped cutting, engraving and volumetric 3D milling of different types of materials: solid wood, plywood panels, MDF, chipboard, fiberboard, etc.
- What is the result?
- Exclusive components for furniture products with three-dimensional (3D) artistic carvings. Production of simple and complex facades, furniture overlays.
- Carved palisades, decorations for solid wood buildings and baths.
- Curly frames for windows and doors with three-dimensional and through carvings. Frames for mirrors, painting masterpieces and photo frames, carved panels, displays of people and animals.
- Components of fireplaces and billiard tables, bas-reliefs, candelabra, staircase elements, plinths.
- Souvenirs, boxes, key rings, floor and wall clocks, writing elements.
- Templates, patterns, index elements.
- Cutting out letters, logos, advertising products.
One of the advantages of using milling, engraving and milling machines equipped with numerical control is the elimination of the need for edge processing. They have a flat and smooth surface. To carry out milling, you need to create a layout in vector format. The CNC machine tool system provides interpolation of the movement of the tool for processing, according to the control program.
Prices
The cost of cutting plywood using CNC can be found in the table. Examples are taken for comparison in several companies.
Light Technology Company
Plywood is an inexpensive, universal construction material that combines the lightness and warmth of wood, a beautiful natural texture, low cost and durability. It lends itself well to milling, grinding and decorative processing. Classified:
Wood species
Birch plywood and softwood plywood (mainly spruce) are the most widely used on sale. Of all the options, birch plywood remains the leader in sales volumes. It is popular among furniture manufacturers and in interior decoration; an endless amount of gift and souvenir products are milled from it. It has an even color and a soft, attractive texture. The color of softwood plywood is much darker and the texture is more contrasting. Due to its lower cost, it has become widespread in construction for the manufacture of formwork and other temporary structures. The technologies for milling coniferous and birch plywood are no different.
Impregnations
There are two impregnation options - FC and FSF. Both make plywood partially resistant to moisture and temperature changes, but with some differences. FSF is recommended for street work and contains more resins. FC is the safest impregnation option, contains a minimal amount of resins and is therefore less resistant to moisture. Recommended for indoor use. The type of impregnation has virtually no effect on the quality of plywood milling.
Types of processing
Based on the type of processing, plywood is divided into sanded and non-sanded. NS - not polished. Ш1 - polished on the front side. Ш2 - polished on the front and back sides. The type of processing has virtually no effect on the quality of plywood milling.
Plywood varieties
The grade indicates the quality of the raw material from which the plywood is made and the number of defects on the visible sides of the sheet. Grade 1 allows for up to two defects (inserts) on the visible surface of the sheet. Grade 2 allows for up to 8 defects (inserts). In grades 3 and 4, the number of defects increases, knots appear, color and texture become uneven. Usually the grade is indicated by two numbers 2/2 or 2/4. This indicates the grade for the face and back of the leaf. Please note an important point - not all types of plywood are milled equally well. Grades 3/3, 3/4 and, especially, 4/4 are made from lower quality raw materials. During the milling process, chips appear at the ends of parts made from such plywood, chips may fly off, and a poorer quality adhesive layer leads to the fact that after milling, parts can delaminate and fall apart. You need to choose low-grade plywood very carefully, only when it is really justified.
Laminated plywood was developed to produce high-quality reusable construction formwork. It is able to retain its properties in direct contact with water, mortars, and concrete. Easily tolerates temperature changes. At the factory, before being pressed and gluing, the veneer sheets are covered with a special protective layer (laminate). After cutting to size, the ends of the sheets are painted over with paint, which prevents moisture from getting inside. Milling laminated plywood requires more attention and responsibility. Incorrectly selected cutting tools or speed settings lead to chipping. On dark laminate they are very visible and cannot be removed.
Plywood cutting is used to create a wide variety of blanks and finished products. The breadth of use of this sheet material is due to its physical, mechanical properties, and performance characteristics.
The advantages of plywood include the following qualities:
- resistant to high humidity;
- withstands temperature changes;
- does not deform under mechanical loads;
- has a beautiful wood texture;
- has a variety of colors due to the use of different types of wood in production
Plywood is made from the thinnest sheets of wood called veneer. These layers are arranged symmetrically relative to the main sheet and glued together with special compounds. For plywood that will be used in open spaces, a special moisture-resistant adhesive is used.
A sheet of plywood consists of several veneer sheets, of which there should be an odd number. When cutting plywood, the thickness of the material must be taken into account in order to avoid damage, chips, cracks, and to create a smooth cut area.
The most valued are plywood sheets made from birch and oak wood, which have a unique texture and original color scheme. They are used for the production of products for interior decoration, the creation of exclusive advertising and exhibition structures, and commercial equipment.
For finishing premises in construction, softwood plywood is used, which is not inferior in its properties, but has a more favorable cost.
Cutting plywood is one of the technological operations in the manufacture of entire products and structural parts in the following fields of activity:
- indoor and outdoor advertising;
- installation of exhibition pavilions, stands, expositions;
- vehicle finishing;
- design of interiors and exteriors of buildings and structures;
- construction and repair;
- furniture manufacturing;
- production of packaging materials
Our equipment
- The machine is designed for fast feed up to 7400 mm/min.
- The working field of the machine is 2000x4000 mm, which allows the use of large sheets entirely.
- Ball screw guides.
- Detailed settings of cutting modes and accelerations on the control panel.
- Working sensors for axes and spindle shaft voltage.
Open up the plywood. Technological features
Processing of sheets is carried out in several stages, the first of which is cutting the plywood. The technological features of this type of activity lie in the structure of plywood as a sheet material.
Each sheet consists of several layers of veneer. The wood fibers in them can be located parallel or perpendicular to each other. When cutting plywood, craftsmen must take this property into account.
If it is necessary to obtain a perfectly smooth edge of the future cut, the material is cut along the location of the fibers of the top layer of plywood. The resulting blanks and structural parts fit together beautifully and look neat and aesthetically pleasing.
In some cases, for example, when creating creative interior decorations, for original decoration of premises, it is necessary to obtain the effect of fibrous cuts. Then the plywood is cut transverse to the direction of the fibers of the material.
Of particular importance is the cutting of plywood with a laminated surface. In order not to damage the laminate layer applied to the material, cutting laminated plywood should be done to a shallow depth (up to 0.3 mm) with a particularly sharp, thin tool.
Plywood cutting is carried out in production conditions on special tables that are an integral part of milling machines. Such tables have dimensions of 2m by 4m and allow you to place a whole sheet of material.
Our company has the necessary modern technological equipment to perform high-quality cutting of plywood in Moscow.
Milling cutting of plywood, price for Moscow and Moscow Region
The minimum order amount is 1000 rubles.
To ensure that plywood cutting is carried out with a guarantee of quality and in exact accordance with the provided dimensions and the developed layout, milling machines are used. The main cutting element of such a machine is the milling cutter. It moves in a given direction at high speed and cuts and cuts plywood quickly and accurately.
Cutting plywood with a milling cutter ensures the accuracy of the work, high speed, and guarantees full compliance of the dimensions and shape of the future product or workpiece with the specified parameters.
If plywood cutting is performed using milling equipment, the cost of orders is significantly reduced compared to manual processing of the material. The price of cutting plywood on machines also depends on the following indicators:
- sheet thickness;
- order quantity;
- layout complexity
Milling plywood will cost less when ordering in bulk. Our company offers favorable discounts for plywood cutting in Moscow for regular customers.
CNC plywood cutting
An important function of modern CNC machines is cutting plywood. Computer numerical control equipment performs all operations based on commands issued by special programs. The machine connects to a computer and performs work quickly and with the highest possible quality.
Milling plywood cutting using CNC machines allows you to complete orders in the shortest possible time, even with complex layout shapes, since the necessary tools are replaced without stopping the equipment. The program itself selects the most optimal version of the cutter, sets it the desired speed, direction of movement, and depth of rotation.
Thanks to the high speed and number of revolutions of the cutter per minute, it is possible to perform high-quality cuts of plywood up to 70 mm thick. In this case, the cuts are smooth, without protruding fibers. There are no cracks or chips on the surface of the material, even on laminated plywood.
Order CNC plywood cutting in Moscow from our company and quickly receive excellent blanks and finished products!
Cutting/cutting plywood in Moscow
Plywood cutting is carried out by our company using our own high-performance equipment with numerical control, manufactured by the world's leading manufacturers. The company's workshop is equipped with machines that perform milling plywood cutting in the shortest possible time. For some orders we only need up to 1 hour!
CNC machines are operated by experienced, qualified craftsmen. We guarantee high quality products because we use only the best consumables purchased from trusted suppliers.
Cutting plywood with a router. Our advantages
Contact us by phone, email or fill out an online application on the website!
Pashtet-
- From: Lip
Good afternoon.
We cut plywood (6, 10, 18mm) with 6mm cutters, the problem is that they break quite often, this does not depend on hitting a knot or the price of the cutters, it can break out of the blue (there is not a lot of play, it doesn’t break every day , but it usually doesn’t reach the point of dulling the cutter - it breaks faster than dulling, and it can work for a week, but sometimes 2 pieces break in a day).
The speed is scanty, the depth per pass is no more than 4mm.
Now we are cutting with a 6mm cutter, maybe 8mm (or even thicker) would be better? (I understand that the logical answer is to take it and try it, but buying a couple of them and a collet so as not to use it later is not entirely correct). Will there be a greater load on the iron (compensating for the breakdown of the cutter with the iron of the machine)?
Thank you very much in advance.
OFFLINE Lodochnik
Lodochnik
- Gender: Man
- From: Korolev
What kind of machine do you have, as well as cutters and operating modes? I work with plywood a lot, no problems. 6th cut 10mm plywood in one pass at a feed of 6-8 m/min. I cut small parts D3.175, feed up to 4m/min, depth per pass up to 5mm. With this cutter I cut plywood up to 18mm thick. The first assumption is overheating of the cutter due to high speeds and low feed, unless, of course, the mechanics of the machine are rigid and have no backlash.
Regards, Oleg.
OFFLINE -Pashtet-
Pashtet-
- From: Lip
The machine is Chinese with a field of 1.2x2.5, a 2 kW spindle, Gravman cutters (for ~300 rubles and for ~700-900 rubles).
Our feed is 11, with a depth per pass of 4, rpm 15,000 (maximum).
No, the cutters probably overheat, they are not burnt (sometimes they get dirty, but this is 1 in 1000, usually there is no carbon deposits at all, they are clean and shiny, they do not get hot).
OFFLINE Crazydox
Crazydox
- Gender: Man
- City: Velikiy Novgorod
- Interests: Everything is interesting.
- From: Veliky Novgorod
What kind of machine do you have, as well as cutters and operating modes? I work with plywood a lot, no problems. 6th cut 10mm plywood in one pass at a feed of 6-8 m/min. I cut small parts D3.175, feed up to 4m/min, depth per pass up to 5mm. With this cutter I cut plywood up to 18mm thick. The first assumption is overheating of the cutter due to high speeds and low feed, unless, of course, the mechanics of the machine are rigid and have no backlash.
Be kind! Can you tell me what mode of cutting plywood (21 mm) with the ONSRUD 48-007 cutter?
OFFLINE ult1
Ult1
- From: Kaluga
I’m looking for a forum asking about the parameters for cutting 10-15mm plywood and 18mm softwood furniture panels (I haven’t found what I was looking for yet, I’ll be grateful for your answer), a Kvikovsky Kvalitech router with a 2.2 kW spindle 24000 rpm, so I’m cutting 3.175 single-flute compression and single-flute with removing the chips downwards (the first half) the parameters with which I am working at the moment: depth per pass 4mm, 15000 revolutions, feed 2000 (I haven’t figured out how it is measured yet, work speed is written on the chipboard control panel), and the rest of the parameters from the chipboard control panel are generally dark wood fastspd 5000 and spdscale 0.500, so sawing cuts but leaves pile that is not so easy to remove manually, what should I change? Settings? Milling cutters? Hands?
OFFLINE yaso73
Yaso73
- Gender: Man
- City Novosibirsk
- Interests:
- From:Novosibirsk
material
OFFLINE lkbyysq
Lkbyysq
- Gender: Man
- City: St. Petersburg
- From: St. Petersburg
what should I change? Settings? Milling cutters? Hands?
In my amateurish opinion, the cutter is to blame in your case. Well, the feed rate is 2000, and even with a coefficient of 0.5, a total of 1000 mm/min is not enough even for a triple.
The surest way.
And be sure to read the lectures on “processing of materials by cutting.”
OFFLINE ult1
Ult1
- From: Kaluga
As always, first take a new cutter. I cut with a universal two-start six. I heard somewhere that the tree likes high speeds - so I set it to 21000. I never bothered with the feed - as long as it didn’t break or hurt my ears. I never had any complaints about the end.
In my amateurish opinion, the cutter is to blame in your case. Well, the feed rate is 2000, and even with a coefficient of 0.5, a total of 1000 mm/min is not enough even for a triple.The surest way. Set the speed to maximum. Increase the feed until the cutter breaks.
And be sure to read the lectures on “processing of materials by cutting.”
My cutters are relatively new (I bought them from djtools last week), the only thing for some reason is that on one of them (which I was cutting in principle, a piece of the shank broke off, about 4 millimeters inside the collet (edges), it was pulled too tight during installation?) and these settings were recommended by the company I bought it from cutters (and cutters as well), before that I cut with a 2-start regular cutter that came with the machine (three), and the settings were slightly different: the spindle was working at maximum, and the feed was only 1000, naturally after the first cut I saw it was very slow I began to increase the speed with each workpiece, reaching 5000, the first cutter grunted (broke off), after which I decided that it was better not to experiment because 1 cutter of threes left! and there was only one six in the set!
I cut letters, words, numbers are decorative and therefore the six is too big (I only use it for sampling and then trusting the parameters that are written in the artcam (the maximum depth for a 6mm cutter is 2 mm (and according to this it takes a long time to make a sample)) the immediate question is how deep to cut with the six (two-way) (by the way, it got burnt!)?
And describe the parameters for the remote control in more detail! Which parameter, besides feed, is responsible for what? Should I just change the feed rate or change the coefficient too (if I change it, by how much)?
I basically came from plywood and wanted to switch to panels because it looks more interesting and tastier! but it won’t be possible to leave completely because... clients are different, requests and needs are also different! And this is why we need to fight somehow!?
OFFLINE Lodochnik
Lodochnik
- Gender: Man
- From: Korolev
To get started, you can adhere to the following regimes. Revolutions are 15t - 18t, working feed (in m/min) is equal to the cutter diameter (in mm), the depth per pass is also equal to the cutter diameter.
The remote control uses something specifically to quickly change the working feed rate during the cutting process. Those. Using the U- and U+ buttons, you change this set during the cutting process, and the real feed speed is calculated as the product of the set by the working feed value specified before starting the NC program (the first line is work speed).
Regards, Oleg.
OFFLINE lkbyysq
Lkbyysq
- Gender: Man
- City: St. Petersburg
- From: St. Petersburg
At what depth should I cut the six (two-way) (by the way, it got burnt on me!)?
Have you read the lectures on cutting?
OFFLINE ult1
Ult1
- From: Kaluga
A break in the shank in the collet usually occurs if a step has formed in the collet (from excessive force when tightening), and the shank is inserted deeper than the step. Regarding the pile at the ends, use a counter cut when choosing a strategy. I often don’t get a perfectly clean end on pine; I don’t like working with pine at all. The best cutting is obtained when using compression cutters, then there are no chips and no fringes on the top/bottom of the edges.
To get started, you can adhere to the following regimes. Revolutions are 15t - 18t, working feed (in m/min) is equal to the cutter diameter (in mm), the depth per pass is also equal to the cutter diameter.
The remote control uses something specifically to quickly change the working feed rate during the cutting process. Those. Using the U- and U+ buttons, you change this set during the cutting process, and the real feed speed is calculated as the product of the set by the working feed value specified before starting the NC program (the first line is work speed).
based on the broken cutter I thought so =) I overdid it, you can even feel this step when you insert the cutter =)
now for the main thing i.e. settings - the feed rate that I have on the remote control seems to be shown in mm (2000), but is it in meters - 2 meters/per minute? So, by setting the feed rate to 3000 (when using a 3mm cutter) and increasing the coefficient to 1, I will get that very optimal speed?
for the Y + buttons - thank you =) I’ll try!
wow, how interesting =)
I surprisingly enjoy learning =)
According to the counter cutting strategy, I’ll pick at the artkam =) I think everything will work out =)
It doesn’t matter, at least to the full depth. That's not the point. To avoid burning, raise the feed so that the cutter rubs less and cuts more.
Have you read the lectures on cutting?
off to read =)
OFFLINE yaso73
Yaso73
- Gender: Man
- City Novosibirsk
- Interests: I really like to live. I really don’t like it when people stop me from doing this.
- From:Novosibirsk
I surprisingly enjoy learning =)
It's you who get pleasure from brainwashing. Reading a textbook is much more boring than picking your brains on hackneyed topics.
No wonder they advised you to break it first and then read the instructions. It's more fun that way.
If you are engaged in cutting, then read about how the speeds of working and idle movements are set. Find out how the speed is adjusted on the machine and try cutting in different modes. Be sure to check whether the machine reads the speeds from the G-code or not. If it does, turn it off. Don’t make life difficult for yourself.
I basically came from plywood and wanted to switch to panels because it looks more interesting and tastier! but it won’t be possible to leave completely because... clients are different, requests and needs are also different! And this is why we need to fight somehow!?
In different principles, I and the others, I think, don’t really care what tastes better there and where you are not destined to go.
Therefore: the basics of cutting. For those who have read the textbook and do not lose consciousness at the words “change the speed.”
1. The smaller the diameter of the cutter, the more revolutions. On a 3mm cutter you can cut 24,000, on a 6mm cutter - usually 15-18 thousand rpm.
2. Carbon deposits on the cutter are a consequence of improper operation. It indicates that the cutter has become unusable (or close to it). Not to be confused with resin adhesion when processing resinous rocks. Reasons for the formation of carbon deposits:
a) There are a lot of revolutions, little feed - we “sag” the cutting edge, friction, kirdyk.
b) There are few revolutions, there is a lot of feed - the heat does not have time to leave with the chips, the cutting zone heats up, the cutter breaks (a good option). Bad option: everything that happened before, only the cutter does not break, but continues to work, then ignites the sawdust at the cutting site .If aspiration is connected, he throws the smoldering (burning) pieces into the aspiration. Then - depending on your luck. From a simple bag fire to a volumetric explosion ("daisy mower", stsuko, in the home version).
c) Using a blunt tool, like an elephant’s ass. The results can be obtained as in point “b”. Big bad boom.
d) Less common, but common, is the use of a left-handed rotation tool. It’s especially cool with drills.
e) Processing very resinous rocks without regularly cleaning the cutter from resin.
3. Clean surface treatment - achieved by the correct combination of cutter rotation speed + depth of removal per pass + feed speed.
a) It very much depends on the type of tree. There are types of wood where a clean end can be obtained only due to a small amount of removal per pass (15-20% of the cutter diameter).
b) When cutting plywood, it is better to make the first couple of passes by 0.5-0.7 mm (especially with large-diameter cutters). This will prevent the pile from rising upward when working with a tool with the chips ejected upward.
c) Backlash in the machine and the quality of the cutting tool also influence.
4. Let me NOT agree with my colleague Boatman (about the dependence on the diameter of the cutter when choosing feed and removal per pass).
Everything here is very individual and also depends on the length of the tool. If the cutter is thin and the working surface is 6-10 times larger than the diameter, then there is a tendency to resonances and they break faster.
5. Considering that point 4 is somewhat controversial, it is better to start by removing 50% of the cutter diameter. Of course, the rigidity of the machine, the strength of the spindle, etc. also influences. You can, of course, drive a cutter with a diameter of 20 mm by 40 mm into MDF (or even HDF) and work at a speed of 10 m/min - but this is a completely different spindle power and machine rigidity.
For the case of the topicstarter: drive in different modes, fortunately, there were already tips. Don’t be shy about changing the speed in the process and the spindle speed too. Try it. Pay attention to the chips (especially when cutting a shield). The chips should look like chips. If they only fly dust is something bad and wrong.
If you are smart enough after reading this message to go read the textbook and experiment, and not throw shit here and shout “the amateur is being beaten” and “a forum for sharing knowledge” - I’ll shake your hand. Despite the harshness of the presentation, the message contains the right advice. And the sharpness helps to convert attention to little things that are boring to read in a textbook. Nothing personal.
If the desire to throw shit does arise, you are welcome. You are not the first.
All comments and moralizing are of an exclusively humorous nature. They do not in any way affect the honor and dignity of the interlocutor of the shabby Cat from the window.
Those who help people are wasting their time.
You cannot become famous for good deeds.
OFFLINE lkbyysq
Lkbyysq
- Gender: Man
- City: St. Petersburg
- From: St. Petersburg
Dear wise and experienced.
And, although I doubt that the heat generated when cutting wood and rubbing against the material is absorbed by weakly thermally conductive wood shavings, and not by the cutter and then by the spindle, you must obey him.
OFFLINE Lodochnik
Lodochnik
- Gender: Man
- From: Korolev
#38yes, what a rush =) seeing the breadth of the post, I realized that right now I’ll get a lot of necessary information, even taking into account some negativity (I reacted very calmly to the statements =) I’ve already seen your squabbles with the shit throwers xD because I’ve been reading the forum for several weeks (I should choose a machine Mir-Sinsi also helped)), and when I read the post to the moment - “Despite the harshness of the presentation, the message contains the right advice” I thought: they said it in my words (I wanted to start my answer in the same way =)! and I didn’t come here to rush, but to gain experience from experienced masters! I am very grateful to everyone who responded =) the useful information is through the roof! The very first workpiece will be tested =)
In different principles, I and the others, I think, don’t really care what tastes better there and where you are not destined to go.
Therefore: the basics of cutting. For those who have read the textbook and do not lose consciousness at the words “change the speed.”
1. The smaller the diameter of the cutter, the more revolutions. On a 3mm cutter you can cut 24,000, on a 6mm cutter - usually 15-18 thousand rpm.
2. Carbon deposits on the cutter are a consequence of improper operation. It indicates that the cutter has become unusable (or close to it). Not to be confused with resin adhesion when processing resinous rocks. Reasons for the formation of carbon deposits:
a) There are a lot of revolutions, little feed - we “sag” the cutting edge, friction, kirdyk.
b) There are few revolutions, there is a lot of feed - the heat does not have time to leave with the chips, the cutting zone heats up, the cutter breaks (a good option). Bad option: everything that happened before, only the cutter does not break, but continues to work, then ignites the sawdust at the cutting site .If aspiration is connected, he throws the smoldering (burning) pieces into the aspiration. Then - depending on your luck. From a simple bag fire to a volumetric explosion ("daisy mower", stsuko, in the home version).
c) Using a blunt tool, like an elephant’s ass. The results can be obtained as in point “b”. Big bad boom.
d) Less common, but common, is the use of a left-handed rotation tool. It’s especially cool with drills.
e) Processing very resinous rocks without regularly cleaning the cutter from resin.
3. Clean surface treatment - achieved by the correct combination of cutter rotation speed + depth of removal per pass + feed speed.
a) It very much depends on the type of tree. There are types of wood where a clean end can be obtained only due to a small amount of removal per pass (15-20% of the cutter diameter).
b) When cutting plywood, it is better to make the first couple of passes by 0.5-0.7 mm (especially with large-diameter cutters). This will prevent the pile from rising upward when working with a tool with the chips ejected upward.
c) Backlash in the machine and the quality of the cutting tool also influence.
4. Let me NOT agree with my colleague Boatman (about the dependence on the diameter of the cutter when choosing feed and removal per pass).
Everything here is very individual and also depends on the length of the tool. If the cutter is thin and the working surface is 6-10 times larger than the diameter, then there is a tendency to resonances and they break faster.
5. Considering that point 4 is somewhat controversial, it is better to start by removing 50% of the cutter diameter. Of course, the rigidity of the machine, the strength of the spindle, etc. also influences. You can, of course, drive a cutter with a diameter of 20 mm by 40 mm into MDF (or even HDF) and work at a speed of 10 m/min - but this is a completely different spindle power and machine rigidity.
For the case of the topicstarter: drive in different modes, fortunately, there were already tips. Don’t be shy about changing the speed in the process and the spindle speed too. Try it. Pay attention to the chips (especially when cutting a shield). The chips should look like chips. If they only fly dust is something bad and wrong.
If you are smart enough after reading this message to go read the textbook and experiment, and not throw shit here and shout “the amateur is being beaten” and “a forum for sharing knowledge” - I’ll shake your hand. Despite the harshness of the presentation, the message contains the right advice. And the sharpness helps to convert attention to little things that are boring to read in a textbook. Nothing personal.
If the desire to throw shit does arise, you are welcome. You are not the first.
I had a cutter with a long working part of 47 mm, a diameter of 3.175 mm and a relatively small shank, I took it for cutting penoplex (I ended up cutting it myself = (still due to lack of experience) and then I decided to try it on an 18 mm furniture board, it worked for about 10 minutes at a depth per pass of 4 mm (speeds are still the same)Agree. With such ratios of the diameter and length of the working part of the cutter, there really are troubles. I myself have long ago determined these relationships for myself and don’t even think about it now. I mainly use cutters D3.175mm with a working part length of up to 17mm and D6mm up to 22mm.
and I have the remaining 3.175 mm cutters with a working part up to 17mm
And I’ll immediately ask about the cutters:
I still plan to buy cutters in reserve!
I now have, as I said above, TWO-3.175 single-flute compression ones, two single-flute 3.175 with chip removal downwards, one double-flute 3.175 with chip removal at the top (I stopped using it after buying single-flute ones, it seems that it produces more lint) and one 6mm double-flute with with shavings up
I use 6 mm for sampling
3.175 mm for cutting
What do you think I should do? Should we use the same or diversify the fleet of cutters? Three-way or more? maybe corn? I read that it is used for plywood!?