In such cases, the standard network parameters for connecting a private house are:

- 3 phases

- Voltage: 380V

- Dedicated power: 15 kWt

- Lead-in cable: SIP 4-core (3 phase conductors and PEN)

I note that one of the main tasks of the TU is not only to ensure the safety of the electrical installation, but also to prevent the possibility of electricity theft by consumers.

That is why all protection or switching devices in the electrical panel, located before the electrical meter, must be protected from the possibility of illegal connection. Usually they are hidden in separate boxes, which are sealed when connected.

Besides, technical conditions prescribe to place the metering board in an accessible place for inspection- on the border of the site, on a lighting pole or fence.

Most often, such external shields are used exclusively for accounting, without additional features, it has only basic functions. At the same time, the main distribution board (PDB) is installed inside houses, where all consumers are divided into groups, the load is distributed, the corresponding protective automatics are installed, etc.

All the schemes presented below will be designed for the two most popular grounding systems in private houses. TT and TN-C-S... Under each connection option, there will be links to step-by-step assembly instructions, with detailed comments.

If you have not decided which of the grounding systems to choose, the following information will help you:

TT is a relatively safer system. The main disadvantages include only high costs, both for the installation of protective equipment and the arrangement of the ground loop, and for regular maintenance. Which, for safe operation, must always be maintained by you in good working order.

You will learn more about the difference in the arrangement of grounding systems in one of the following articles. Subscribe to our Vkontakte group, follow the release of new materials.

Simple wiring diagram for the electrical panel of a private house 15 kW

The simplest budget option for assembling a metering board is presented below. Only the most essential elements are used here:

1. Hinged metal shield,.

2. Plastic box, 3 modules, with eyelets for a seal

3. Three-pole Safety circuit breaker, characteristic C25 (for a dedicated power of 15 kW, this rating is needed)

4. Electric energy metering device (meter) 3-phase 380V

5. Distribution switching block, the ability to connect wires with a cross section of up to 16mm.kv.

Scheme of a simple metering board for a private house 15kW, TN-C-S grounding system:

Simple metering board, TT earthing system

This option is more often used as a temporary one, for example, to connect a change house during construction, since it has few protective equipment.

For your house, in which you plan to live permanently, even for a summer cottage, I advise you to use the following assembly:

The optimal scheme of the electricity metering board 380V of a private house 15 kW

From the previous one, it differs in the presence of selective ( number 6), it works at once for all consumers at home, it is also called fire prevention. The installation of an RCD at the entrance to the house is recommended by the Rules for the Arrangement of Electrical Installations - PUE.

Recommended metering board scheme for a 380V private house using a selective RCD, TN-C-S grounding

This is the most balanced scheme that can be implemented for an external electrical metering board at home, simple and reliable. It is suitable for everyone, and that is what I recommend to collect.

To improve it, in order to enhance the protection of the electrical network and electrical appliances at home, you can add a surge protection device (SPD).

Option of an electrical panel of a private house with an SPD

It is up to you to install the SPD or not. It depends on many factors that need to be considered. If you dare, these schemes will help you.

Often, in an overhead street electrical panel, in addition to the above equipment, it is required to install some other modular devices, for example, switching devices. In particular, the usual socket mechanism is very useful, especially during the construction phase.

You can connect to it a power tool, a spotlight or any other electrical appliance that needs to be used outdoors. There are often no other ways to connect to the mains.

Electricity metering board 380V of a private house with a 220V socket

In this circuit of the electrical panel, there is an additional 220V modular socket ( number 7) with an individual protection device - a difavtomat ( number 8), combining a circuit breaker and a residual current device. The RCD rating must be higher than that of a circuit breaker, for example 40A, leakage current 100 or 300 mA.

Electric metering board 380V, with modular socket and difavtomat, TT grounding

Following this example, where the outlet is protected by a residual current circuit breaker, you can install any other modular equipment, contactors, transformers, etc. into the electricity metering board, if necessary.

Once again, I note that under each diagram there are links, by clicking on which you can read the details, find out the equipment used, and ask questions.

If you know any other useful options for assembling a 380V private house metering board, write in the comments, it may be interesting and useful to many.

For the rest, here are the main options that are used when connecting private houses and garden houses to the power grid. And most importantly, such switchboards are successfully accepted by the regulatory authorities and put into operation.

An important part of the power supply system is an electrical panel for the meter and machines. It is with the determination of its location that planning or modernization of electrical networks begins. The device is a distribution box used to monitor and control all electrical wiring lines. Therefore, it is so important to choose and install it correctly.

The electrical panel is an electrical box, designed to accommodate input devices, protection elements and an electricity meter. Such a box is used both at production facilities and in private houses and apartments. In the technical documentation, you can also find its other name - distribution point.

In fact, the device is a box with seats for fixing electrical accessories. Its design includes a door designed not only to protect the equipment in the cabinet, but also to prevent electric shock. Depending on the purpose, the shields produced by the industry can be:

Thus, electricity is supplied to the outlet or lighting groups from the panel. All the electrical equipment necessary for this is installed in the storey or apartment device, for example, packet circuit breakers, RCDs, voltage relays, input differential circuit breaker, zero and grounding voltage block. In addition, an electricity meter can be installed in it.

The requirements for different types of shields are the same. They are indicated in the rules for the operation of electrical installations (PUE) and GOST 51321. The main content of these documents is as follows:

Types of shields

The division of shields according to their purpose is conditional and is intended to be indicated on building plans or in other documentation that is understandable to specialists. For consumers, electrical cabinets are divided according to other criteria. First of all, this includes installation, which can be built-in or hinged.

The built-in (internal) structure looks more attractive, as it forms almost one whole with the wall on which it is placed. The second type is hung using fasteners, which allows it to be used even on thin partitions. It should be noted that there is also a floor-type flap, made in the form of a cabinet and used only in production.

In addition, electric boxes differ in size and material from which they are made. They use metal or plastic as a basis. There is no fundamental difference between the use of this or that material, but a plastic box is recommended for built-in or outdoor execution, although the metal one is vandal-proof and has a lock.

All shields have their own markings, consisting of letters and numbers. So, SCHKU means an apartment accounting panel, SCHKR - distribution, SCHRV - internal, and SCHRN - hinged. The number after the abbreviation indicates the number of modules that can fit in the device. For example, marking SCHRN-10 means that the electrical cabinet is designed for a wall-mounted design and is designed for the installation of ten modules.

There are also models with a mounting plate. They are designated SHMP. Due to their small size and good appearance, they can be used both in storey niches and in apartments. The difference between outdoor devices (SCHRNM) is the ability to remove the mounting panel, which allows you to increase the useful volume of the box.

Distribution block characteristics

The technical parameters of junction boxes for electrical machines are related to ergonomics and the number of modules installed at the same time. So, the quality of the fixture depends on the accuracy of the fit of the elements, the type of materials used in the manufacture and the coating of metal parts. The following characteristics of structures are distinguished:

1. Dimensions. Indicated in millimeters. Most often, the electrical panel is made of a rectangular shape.
2. The number of modules. Indicates the number of seats for electrical machines. It should be noted that some devices, for example, differential automata, can take more than two places. The unit of measurement is pieces. Additionally, a place can be provided for the installation of a metering device for electricity consumption.
3. Material. Shields are made of metal or non-combustible plastic.
4. Place of use. There are options for outdoor and indoor performance.
5. Door type. If a door is provided in the electrical panel, then it can be transparent or deaf. It is made of sheet metal or plastic and can be supplemented with a fire-resistant seal, and also have a latch or a full-fledged lock.
6. Type of instalation. There can be three types: hinged, built-in, floor.
7. Protection level. This value is in accordance with the international standard classification. Features an IP rating to withstand solid objects and water, and IK to indicate impact resistance (more is better).
8. Colour. They are produced in various colors, may have the texture of wood or other decorative material.

Nuances of choice

In retail outlets, electrical panels are presented in a large assortment. They are produced by almost all leading manufacturers of electrical accessories. Most often, electricians choose panels of such brands as Schneider Electric, Hager, ABB, Legrand, Viko, IEK, Makel (the last 3 are the most budgetary options).

Before purchasing the device, you need to decide where the box will be located and what electrical accessories are planned to be installed in it.

Wall-mounted cabinets allow safe electrical installation, they are intended mainly for installation in wooden houses or on walls where it is problematic to create a niche. Built-in boxes fit perfectly into the interior and are used in corridors intended for emergency exits.

If you plan to buy an apartment built-in electrical panel, then you should find out the issue with the installation of an electricity meter. Since the consumer does not have the right to disconnect and switch the meter, then before transferring it to the box, you will need to call an electrician. To avoid this, you can purchase a small box for your home. On average, for a three-room apartment, a box is enough, designed for 12 modules, taking into account the fact that the introductory machine takes two seats.

In case of planned replacement or relocation of the meter, you can buy a combination cabinet. The arrangement of all distribution elements in one place will look more harmonious. At the same time, it will be more convenient to switch them among themselves. It is desirable that there is a slot in the closing door through which it is convenient to take readings from the meter. It is even better if the switchboard is equipped with a transparent door. It will allow you not to open the box every time in order to assess the position of the circuit breakers.

For residential and administrative buildings, the protection class of the shield must be at least IP31, for industrial buildings - IP54. An outdoor panel located in an open area must have a protection class of IP55 or higher. The dimensions of the electrical panel depend on the types of modules installed in it and their number. Most often, devices with a depth of 120 mm are chosen for the house.

Assembly and assembly

The assembly of an external or internal structure does not fundamentally differ from each other. But in the second case, it is first necessary to make a niche to which the gouged channels for laying the electric wire will fit ... Any electrical cabinet consists of several parts, which include:

• shield base;
• a place for laying the electric cable with its holders;
• posts for fastening terminal blocks;
• din rail.

Depending on the model, a door, security strip or lock can be added.

Direct installation consists in mounting the box to the designated place. But before that, depending on the side of the cable plant, a plug is broken in the shield. Electric wires are inserted into the hole formed. The outdoor box is hung on a pre-installed bracket. There are also models that are attached with screws, for this they are screwed through the back panel into the installed dowels.

The inner box for electric machines is inserted into a niche and fixed using gypsum-based solutions. Before fixing it, thread all the wires through the prepared holes. As soon as the cabinet is fixed, the installation of electrical appliances begins.

First, screw the din-rail and the electric meter, if its installation is provided. Then the grounding and grounding busbars are installed. Circuit breakers, residual current devices (RCDs), differential circuit breakers and other protective equipment are put on the rail. It is easy to install them thanks to a specially spring-loaded latch, which firmly presses the electrical accessories to the DIN rail. Until the fastening screw is tightened, the device to be installed can be easily moved horizontally.

As soon as all the necessary devices are located, proceed to connecting the wires. To perform these steps without errors, it is convenient to use a pre-drawn wiring plan. It is recommended to observe the color of the wires when connecting. So, a blue wire is connected to the zero bus, the ground is green, and brown is used as the phase one.

The models of electrical panels are not tied to the manufacturers of modular elements, for example, an electrical Hager can be installed in an ABB enclosure without any problems. Therefore, their functionality is determined by ease of mounting and protection class. Among the many manufactured products, some models are especially popular for installation in apartments. But if in industrial buildings the main criterion is reliability, then in apartments - aesthetics.

For flush-mounted installation, it is recommended to purchase a Hager Cosmos VR118TD shield. Its door is made of transparent plastic, if desired, it can be easily removed from the hinges. Opening direction - up. The box is equipped with ground and zero busbars made of brass. The degree of protection corresponds to IP 31. The number of installed modules is eighteen. This shield is distinguished by its beautiful appearance, ease of installation and low price.

If an external shield is required, the VIKO LOTUS model can be purchased. This inexpensive model will be especially relevant for the residents of Khrushchev. It allows you to accommodate twelve modules. The set contains tires, all the necessary fasteners and a din-rail. The white color of the product and its tinted door will suit any interior.

The construction of a power supply system without the use of electrical panels is almost impossible. Their installation not only makes it convenient to turn on and off the power supply on certain lines, but also increases the safety of using the power grid as a whole. At the same time, boxes for placing meters and electrical modules are of different placement and they can be selected for any interior.

Owners of private households sooner or later have to take out communal metering devices on the street. Service organizations have a number of requirements for this event. One of them is the corresponding paragraph of the PUE, according to which the shield is installed on the facades of houses, supports, poles, fences, etc.

We will tell you how, in accordance with building codes, to position and secure a street box for an electric meter. The article proposed by us describes in detail the selection criteria and rules for installing a box for a flow meter and other equipment. Useful recommendations for the assembly of the panel and installation are given.

The box has three functions. The first is to ensure the safety of people during the maintenance and operation of the power grid. The box must be grounded.

The second is to create optimal conditions for the devices located inside. The structure must be well protected from atmospheric influences: moisture, sunlight, wind.

Electric meter boxes are made of metal or plastic. The latter are considered safer in operation, because they exclude the user's shock.

The third is to provide access to the metering device to representatives of the service organization. This condition is spelled out in contracts with consumers, although there is no direct requirement in the PUE to install meters on the street.

Varieties of boxes by type of design

Foreign and domestic manufacturers offer boxes of different sizes and capacity. The option is selected depending on the parameters of the equipment that is planned to be placed in the box.

The dimensions of the panel are also selected for the type of meter. Single-phase metering devices are smaller than three-phase meters in size, sometimes twice

There are also certain markings that suggest the type and purpose of the box. Example:

• SCHU- common and simplest;
• SCHVR- a box built into the wall;
• SCHRN- junction box.

If this is just a metering panel, it usually contains only a meter, an input automaton, grounding buses and zero. , and are also installed in the "home" box. But you can combine all this in one box.

The design of the flap can be:

• outdoor;
• built-in;
• invoice or hinged;
• hidden or open;
• one piece or collapsible.

What kind of equipment, in what quantity and with what parameters should be installed in the box - all these points are prescribed in the project. If there is no such document, consultation of specialized specialists is needed.

The main criteria for choosing a box

The main challenge for the consumer is to find a durable, practical box that will withstand long-term outdoor use. The box should be convenient for installation and operation.

What is important in the design itself? The presence of holes of the appropriate diameter for wires that go from the support and are output to the building. It is desirable that these elements have rubber bands and plastic sleeves.

A convenient detail is the window. It eliminates the need to open the panel for taking readings and reduces the frequency of contacts of the internal contents with air and moisture. Pay attention to the sealing ears.

The IP20 index means that the box is protected from dust particles over 12.5 mm, but not protected from moisture. IP65 guarantees complete isolation from these negative factors. The higher the number, the more expensive the design. The best option is with an indicator of 54.

When choosing an electrical panel, you also need to look at the thickness of its walls, the operating temperature range, the number of doors, and the type of lock. The box can be closed with one individual key or be equipped with several identical ones.

Box installation requirements

The meter and additional equipment may only be installed in a sufficiently rigid structure. It must be well insulated from moisture and other negative atmospheric conditions.

Meters with significant temperature differences can give errors in readings, therefore it is recommended to insulate the box with special caps or heating elements. This will also extend the life of the devices.

Key points PUE-7:

1. The distance between the floor and the box with the terminals of the meter should fall within the range of 0.8-1.7 m. The deviation of the first indicator up to 0.4 m is allowed.
2. If the location is accessible to unauthorized persons, the box must be equipped with a secure lock and a viewing window.
3. The design and dimensions of the cabinet should provide easy access to all elements of the installation and the possibility of replacing devices, if necessary.
4. During installation, be sure to leave the ends of wires from 12 cm near the meter. The segment of the neutral wire at the final length of 10 cm must have a distinctive color.
5. Compulsory grounding with copper protective conductors.
6. Electrical wiring must be free of adhesions.
7. Verification terms: for three-phase meters - 1 year, for single-phase meters - 2 years.

In addition to the requirements for the meters and boxes themselves, the rules also apply to cables, wires, fasteners. For a multicore cable, it is imperative to use an NSHVI (ferrule). When fastening the ends of the cables to the equipment, sealed glands (glands) are also needed.

One of the options for arranging an electrical panel in which a meter is installed, an introductory machine. The layout of the devices and their technical characteristics are selected depending on the parameters of a particular electrical network

DIY wardrobe

If you have experience and desire, you can equip a cabinet for an electric meter yourself. You will need to buy the structure itself, arm yourself with the necessary tools and carry it out in accordance with the specifics of the home electrical network.

If you come across a cabinet of the required dimensions, but it lacks a window, ears for seals or some kind of holes, it is permissible to add these elements. But the work must be performed in accordance with safety regulations and the requirements of regulatory organizations.

All necessary equipment is mounted on DIN rails. With many models of metering devices, the kit comes with parts that can be useful during installation (stickers, caps, fasteners). The main task is to assemble devices and correctly combine them with each other.

Outdoor meter models

If you buy a new meter, and do not take an existing one out of the room, you need a device that is suitable for outdoor use.

Pay attention to the following points:

• Induction models are much more sensitive to temperature changes than electronic ones.
• DIN rail is preferred as a mounting method.
• Go to the website of the electrical sales organization and see which models are allowed for installation on the territory of Russia.
• For a multi-tariff payment system, choose a device that can take into account more than three tariffs.

The brand awareness and the availability of service centers are also important. A proven manufacturer means quality, maintainability, and loyalty of inspection organizations.

Of the domestic brands available for sale, the following can be considered: INCOTEX, Typeit, Energomera, EKF. Such model as "Mercury" 230 AM-03 is especially popular. It is single rate, capable of giving accurate readings at temperatures ranging from -40 to +55 degrees.

Among foreign manufacturers, they have proven themselves well: Swedish-Swiss ABB, French Schneider Electric, Turkish Legrand. But for European brands, the operating temperature range often does not correspond to Russian realities.

It is advisable to consult with the specialists of the service organization in your area. They usually have a list of devices that have already shown their best side during operation.

Automatic machine and heater

A circuit breaker is installed in the box before the counter. Its parameters must be calculated from the total power of all consumers - electrical appliances installed or planned in the house and on the street / in the garage and other household buildings.

If, for example, the total power is 25 kW, then an automatic machine for 63 A is optimal for this value. In addition to the input, you need an automatic machine for outgoing lines, protective for the heater and modem (if any). With the latter, the readings are automatically transferred to the processing center. But such a scheme cannot do without a heater.

The heater for the switchboard can be switched on / off manually or automatically. It is needed to maintain the optimal temperature in the cold - electrical appliances need heat to work without errors

Heaters for electrical panels are made of aluminum, which is coated with non-combustible thermoplastics.

The main functions of the element are to prevent the appearance of condensation, which prevents corrosive changes in current-carrying buses, contacts and protects devices from high humidity.

Reserve input device and SPD

If the electrical installation has an autonomous power source, a backup device must be installed after the meter. This device is needed to manually switch consumers from the external network to the generator and vice versa.

The reserve input device excludes the simultaneous use of two different power sources (external network and generator), which is its task

To protect the installation from lightning strikes, high-voltage surges and fires from these influences, an SPD (surge protection) is added to the shield. It is placed after the introductory machine and through a separate fuse. An SPD is required if the entry into the building is carried out by air.

Additionally, a cross-module can be installed in the panel for distributing electricity to different groups of consumers. Sometimes a differential machine is also added to the box.

The socket is one of the optional items. But if your site is just under construction or you need a street connection for some equipment, you cannot do without it. And do not forget about the zero rail, it unites all zero cables and is used to switch cores.

How is the installation carried out?

The connection of all equipment must be done by an electrician, provided that he has the documents necessary for such work. The owner of the transmission line has such specialists. Inviting someone else or doing everything yourself is not practical.

Unskilled craftsmen may not compare the technical characteristics of the input equipment with the actual loads on the network, "forget" about the protection devices against electric shock, or even make gross mistakes in the sequence of their connection. Therefore, it is highly desirable to know how the installation is carried out.

First, the input device is equipped - this is the cabinet itself, where the protection mechanisms and connections of incoming cables with outgoing ones are located. It is good if the pipe with the cable goes directly into the box itself. Let's consider the connection process using an example with a three-phase network.

The figure shows how the three phase conductors (L1, L2, L3) are connected to the input contacts of the breaker. The latter will cut off the entire network if necessary. The figure also shows: N - zero; PE - earth

There are many switches on sale, one three-pole automatic machine is suitable, which can be taken out of the input device. One of these designs is YABPVU-100. It is an iron box with break contacts and 100 A fuse links.

The most important element of the input device is the grounding bus, to which a re-grounding with a zero input conductor is connected. It splits the PEN conductor into a ground wire and an outgoing zero. Further, the cable from the box goes to the house, where its own shield is installed.

Zero splitting can also occur in the input device itself. In this case, the shield will be called the lead-in and distribution board.

If it is meant to disconnect street wiring, you can make a special tap from the main panel. So devices designed for three-phase power supply will have separate machines, RCDs.

The equipment is connected via power plugs or bus boxes. Their degree of protection must be greater than or equal to IP45.

How to assemble and install a meter shield in an apartment is described in detail in, with which we recommend that owners of urban housing familiarize themselves.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Video # 1. Assembling all the elements of the box before installation:

Video # 2. Assembly and installation of a three-phase metering device instead of the old single-phase one, plus an estimate for such work:

Video # 3. Analysis of the process of connecting electricity from a support (pillar):

To install a box for an electric meter on the street, you need to choose the box itself and its internal equipment so that the structure and devices withstand outdoor conditions. You can assemble the shield yourself, but it is better to entrust all the connections from the support and to the house to the master from the service organization.

An electrical panel in a private house, in a country house, in an apartment performs a double function: it provides input and distribution of electricity and creates safe operating conditions. If there is a desire to understand not the simplest issue, you can assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. The introductory machine and the meter should be installed by representatives of the power supply organization, but further, after the meter, you can assemble the circuit yourself (although they do not like to lose money). True, before putting the house into operation, you will need to invite them so that they are present at start-up, they check everything and measure the ground loop. All of these are paid services, but they cost much less than a complete shield assembly. If you do everything correctly and according to the norms, it will turn out even better on your own: after all, you do it for yourself.

What should be in the dashboard

Both in the apartment and in a private house there are several options for the layout of the shield. This mainly concerns the place of installation of the introductory machine and the counter. In a private house, they can put the meter on a pole, and the machine on the wall of the house, almost under the roof. Sometimes a meter is installed in the house, but that is if it was built a couple of decades ago. Recently, metering devices have been installed extremely rarely in the house, although there are no decisions and instructions on this matter. If the meter is in a room, it can be installed in a flap, then when choosing a flap model, it is necessary to take into account the dimensions of the meter.

In some apartment buildings, meters are located in boxes on the stairwells. In this case, the cabinet is needed only for RCDs and automatic machines. In other houses, he is in the apartment. When upgrading the electrical network, the cabinet will have to be bought with the expectation that the meter will fit there too, or buy a separate box for the meter with an introductory machine.

Safety is very important when drawing up the power supply diagram. First of all, it is provided for people: with the help of an RCD - a residual current device (in the photo under number 3), which is installed immediately after the meter. This device is triggered if the leakage current exceeds a threshold value (a short to ground or someone sticks their fingers into the outlet). This device breaks the circuit, minimizing the possibility of electric shock. From the RCD, the phase goes to the inputs of the machines, which also operate when the load is exceeded or when the circuit is short-circuited, but each in its own section.

Secondly, it is necessary to ensure the normal operation of household appliances and electrical appliances. Modern sophisticated technology is controlled by microprocessors. They need a stable power supply to function properly. After observing the voltage in our network for some time, you cannot call it stable: it varies from 150-160 V to 280 V. Such a spread of imported equipment cannot withstand. Therefore, it is better to turn on at least some groups of machines that supply power to complex equipment through. Yes, it costs a lot. But when there are voltage surges, the control boards are the first to "fly". They are not being repaired here, but simply changed. The cost of such a replacement is about half the cost of the device (more or less depends on the type of device). It's hardly any cheaper. When assembling an electrical panel with your own hands, or just planning it while planning, remember this.

One example of a panel layout for a small circuit - for 6 machines

The stabilizer is installed on one or several groups and turns on after the RCD and in front of the group machines. Since this device is rather big, it will not be possible to install it in the shield, but next to it - please.

Also, two buses are installed in the shield: grounding and zeroing. All grounding wires from devices and devices are connected to the grounding bus. The wire comes to the "zero" bus from the RCD, and is fed to the corresponding inputs of the machines. Zero is usually denoted by the letter N, when wiring it is customary to use a blue wire. For grounding - white or yellow-green, the phase is lead with a red or brown wire.

When assembling the electrical panel on your own, you will need to purchase the cabinet itself, as well as the rails (called DIN rails or DIN rails), on which the machines, RCDs and switches are attached. When installing the rails, check their horizontal level with the level: there will be no problems with the fastening of the machines.

All machines must be interconnected. This can be done using conductors - connecting their inputs in series, or using a ready-made connecting comb. A comb is more reliable, although it costs more, but if you take into account the time that you spend on connecting all the machines, then hardly a few tens of rubles are of such fundamental importance.

Multi-group scheme

Power supply schemes are not always simple: consumer groups are divided into floors, outbuildings, lighting of the garage, basement, courtyard and local area are displayed separately. With a large number of consumers, in addition to the general RCD after the meter, they put the same devices, only of lower power - for each group. Separately, with the obligatory installation of a personal protective device, power supply for the bathroom is output: this is one of the most dangerous rooms in the house and apartment.

It is highly desirable to put protective devices on each of the inputs that go to powerful household appliances (more than 2.5 kW, and even a hairdryer may have such power). Together with the stabilizer, they will create normal conditions for the operation of electronics.

Also not the most complicated circuit, but with a higher degree of protection - more RCDs

In general, when designing an accurate circuit, you will have to find a compromise: make the system safe and not spend too much money. It is better to take equipment from trusted firms, but it costs decently. But power grids are not an area to save money.

Types and sizes of switchboards

We will talk about cabinets / boxes for the installation of automatic machines and other electrical filling, about their varieties. By the type of installation, electrical panels are for outdoor installation and for indoor. The outdoor box is fixed to the wall with dowels. If the walls are flammable, a non-conductive insulating material is placed under it. When mounted, the external switchboard protrudes above the wall surface by about 12-18 cm. This must be taken into account when choosing a place for its installation: for ease of maintenance, the shield is mounted so that all its parts are approximately at eye level. This is convenient when working, but it can threaten with injuries (sharp corners) if the location for the cabinet is not chosen well. The best option is behind the door or closer to the corner: so that there is no possibility of hitting your head.

A flush-mounted panel implies the presence of a niche: it is installed and walled up. The door is flush with the wall surface, maybe - it protrudes a few millimeters - depending on the installation and design of a particular cabinet.

The cases are made of metal, painted with powder paint, and there are plastic ones. Doors - solid or with transparent plastic inserts. Sizes are different - elongated upward, wide, square. In principle, a suitable option can be found for any niche or condition. One piece of advice: if possible, choose a larger cabinet: it is easier to work in it, this is especially important if you are assembling an electrical panel with your own hands for the first time.

When choosing a case, they often operate with such a concept as the number of seats. This means how many single-pole circuit breakers (12 mm thick) can be installed in a given housing. You have a diagram, all devices are indicated on it. Consider them taking into account the fact that two-pole ones have double width, add about 20% to the development of the network (suddenly buy some other device, but there will be nowhere to connect, or during installation decide to make two from one group, etc.). And for such a number of "seats" look for a flap suitable for geometry.

Installation and connection of elements

All modern automatic devices and RCDs have a unified mount for a standard mounting rail (DIN rail). On the back side they have a plastic stop that snaps into place on the bar. Place the device on the rail, hooking it with the recess on the back wall, press down on the bottom with your finger. Once clicked, the item is set. It remains to connect it. They do it according to the scheme. The corresponding wires are inserted into the terminals and with a screwdriver tighten the contact, tightening the screw. It is not necessary to tighten it too much - you can pass the wire.

They work when the power is off, all circuit breakers are switched to the “off” position. Try to do not grasp the wires with both hands... Having connected several elements, turn on the power (input breaker), then turn on the installed elements in turn, checking them for a short circuit (short circuit).

The phase from the input is fed to the input machine, from its output it goes to the corresponding RCD input (put a copper jumper). In some schemes, the neutral wire from the water is fed directly to the corresponding input of the RCD, and from its output it goes to the bus. The phase wire from the output of the protective device is connected to the connecting manifold of the machines.

In modern schemes the input machine is two-pole: he must simultaneously disconnect both wires (phase and zero) in order to completely de-energize the network in the event of a malfunction: this is safer and these are the latest electrical safety requirements. Then the circuit for switching on the RCD looks like in the photo below.

Watch the video about installing an RCD on a DIN rail.

After the required number of devices are installed on the mounting rail, their inputs are connected. As said earlier, this can be done with wire jumpers or a special connecting comb. See the photo for how the wire connection looks.

There are two ways to make jumpers:

• Cut the conductors of the required lengths, expose their edges and bend them in an arc. Insert two conductors into one terminal, then tighten.
• Take a sufficiently long conductor, strip 1-1.5 cm of insulation after 4-5 cm. Take round-nose pliers and bend the bare conductors so that you get interconnected arcs. Insert these bare areas into the corresponding slots and tighten.

They do this, but electricians talk about the poor quality of the connection. It is safer to use special tires. Under them on the body there are special connectors (narrow slots, closer to the front edge), into which the bus contacts are inserted. These tires are sold by the meter, cut into pieces of the required length with conventional wire cutters. After inserting it and installing the supply conductor in the first of the machines, twist the contacts on all connected devices. Watch the video on how to connect the machines in the dashboard using a bus.

A phase wire is connected to the output of the machines, which goes to the load: to household appliances, to sockets, switches, etc. Actually, the assembly of the shield is complete.

The choice of machines in the house or apartment dashboard

Three types of devices are used in the electrical panel:

• Machine. Disconnects and turns on the power in manual mode, and also operates (breaks the circuit) in the event of a short circuit in the circuit.
• RCD(residual current device). It monitors the leakage current that occurs when the insulation breaks down or if someone handles the wires. When one of these situations occurs, the chain is broken.
• Dif. machine(). This is a device that combines two in one case: it controls the presence of a short circuit and a leakage current.

Differential machines are usually installed instead of a bundle - RCD + machine. This saves space in the panel - less space is required by one module. Sometimes this is important: for example, you need to turn on another power line, and there is no place for installation, as there is no free machine.

In general, two devices are often installed. Firstly, it is cheaper (diff.automatic devices are more expensive), and secondly, when one of the protective devices is triggered, you know exactly what happened and what you need to look for: short circuit (if the machine was turned off) or leakage and possible overcurrent (triggered RCD). When the difavtomat is triggered, you will not find this. Unless you put on a special model that has a checkbox showing which malfunction the device has triggered.

Automatic circuit breakers

Circuit breakers selectable by current, which is necessary for consumers of this group. It is calculated simply. Add up the maximum powers of all devices connected at the same time in the group, divide by the mains voltage - 220 V, you get the required current power. You take the device's rating a little more, otherwise, when all loads are turned on, it will turn off due to overload.

For example, adding up the power of all devices in the group, we get a total value of 6.5 kW (6500 W). Divide by 220 V, we get 6500 W / 220 V = 29.54 A.

The ratings of the machines for current can be as follows: (in A) 6, 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50, 63. The closest greater to the given value is 32 A. We are looking for this.

Types and types of RCDs

RCDs have two types of action: electronic and electronic-mechanical... The difference in price for a device with the same parameters is large - electronic-mechanical ones are more expensive. But you need to buy them for a dashboard in a house or apartment. There is only one reason: they are more reliable, since they work regardless of the presence of power, and for the operation of electronic ones, power is required.

For example, the situation is this: you are repairing the wiring, for example, an outlet and disconnected the network for this - you turned off the introductory machine. In the process, insulation was damaged somewhere. If an electro-mechanical RCD is installed, it will work even if there is no power supply. You will understand that you did something wrong and you will look for the reason. Electronic without power supply is inoperative and turning on the network with damaged insulation may have problems.

To understand which of the devices is in front of you, it is enough to have a small battery and a couple of wires at hand. Apply battery power to any pair of RCD contacts. In this case, the electro-mechanical will work, the electronic will not. More on this in the video.

• AC type - alternating sinusoidal current;
• type A - alternating current + pulsating direct current;
• type B - alternating + pulsating direct + rectified current.

It turns out that type B gives the most complete protection but these devices are very expensive. For a house or apartment panel completely enough, type A but not AC, which are mostly sold as they are cheaper.

Besides the type RCD, it is selected by current. Moreover, according to two parameters: rated and leakage... A nominal is one that can go through the contacts and not shatter (fuse) them. The rated current of the RCD is taken one step higher than the rated current of the machine installed in tandem with it. If the machine is needed for 25 A, then take the RCD for 40 A.

The leakage current is still simpler: only two ratings are put into electrical distribution boards for an apartment and a house - 10 mA and 30 mA. 10 mA is put on a line with one device, for example, a gas boiler, a washing machine, etc. as well as in premises where a high degree of protection is required: in a nursery or a bathroom. Accordingly, a 30 milliampere RCD is installed in lines that include several consumers (devices) - on sockets in the kitchen, rooms. Such protection is rarely installed on the lighting line: there is no need, except for the street or in the garage.

There are also RCDs with different response delays. They are of two types:

• S - selective - triggers after a certain time after the appearance of the leakage current (quite a long period of time). They are usually placed at the entrance. Then, in the event of an emergency, the device on the damaged line is turned off first. If the leakage current remains, then the "senior" selective RCD will operate - usually this is the one at the input.
• J - also triggers with a delay (protection against accidental currents), but with much less. This type of RCD is placed in groups.

Dif-machines are of the same types how RCD and are selected in the same way. Only when determining the power by current, you immediately consider the load and determine the rating.

For a few explanations on the installation of a built-in cabinet for the dashboard, see the connection procedure in the video from a practitioner and a wide-profile specialist.

One important detail that is important for safety. There is a "test" button on the RCD or differential machine. When it is pressed, a leakage current is artificially created and the device should work - the switch goes into the "off" position and the line is de-energized. This is how the performance is checked. This should be done at least once a month: to be sure of the reliability of protection. Check all the RCDs in the circuit one by one. It is important.

Probably, this is all the information that is needed to assemble an electrical panel with your own hands. Maybe you still need to learn more about how to break the load into groups, about this.

Accounting Shield electricity. What is this shield and what is it for? Actually, as the name suggests, this is electricity metering board, i.e. the shield where it is installed.

You can order the assembly of the metering board from me.The price of the metering board starts from 9000 rubles.
Assembly time from 1 week.

In the article, we will consider what elements (devices) the metering board scheme consists of and examples.

Depending on the number of connected phases from the overhead line, the voltage metering board is divided into metering board 380V and 220V, i.e. three-phase or single-phase. In accordance with the number of phases, either a three-phase or single-phase electricity meter is installed in the metering board.

The metering board is usually installed for private houses. For apartments, meters are installed either in floor boards on the staircase or in apartments in a common board. It is assembled according to the technical specifications (TU), which are issued by the grid company, to whose power grids you are connected. Usually they are familiar to many: Mosenergo, Lenenergo, Kurskenergo and other "-energo" by region.

In recent years, the network company requires the installation of metering boards (SCHU) behind the fence in an accessible place so that the metering board is visible, and there is no opportunity for theft of electricity.

Therefore, the metering board should be correctly installed in metal so that it is not broken on occasion, although this does not always help. It is also important that the metering board is high (at least IP54), and, ideally, climatic version U1 (for outdoor installation at temperatures from -40 to +40 degrees).

The body of the metal shield is necessarily connected to a grounding device, and if there are electrical devices on the door of the shield, for example, signal lamps, then the door of the shield must also be grounded.

The metering board is usually installed on a pole (support) of a power transmission line, a separate pipe stand, on a fence, on the facade of a house. The place of installation must be coordinated with a network organization, the chairman of SNT and other societies, otherwise they may not be accepted.

The metering board in height is usually mounted at eye level 1.6-1.8 m above the ground, but sometimes, as in one of the photos, you have to install it high enough. This is due to banal vandalism.

Network organization often requires that the metering board was with a viewing window for taking readings of the electric meter. Unfortunately, this makes serious adjustments when choosing such a metering board, since there is no such thing as metal high-quality metering boards with a viewing window; manufacturers such as ABB, Legrand and Schneider Electric simply don’t make them. And shields from IEK, EKF and other Chinese - Russian manufacturers lose their appearance and rust after a couple of years of operation.

Shield accounting. Scheme.

The metering board scheme can be divided into two components: the grounding system and the electrical circuit.

Grounding system. What it will be TN-C-S or TT depends on a number of conditions (the state of the line, the distance of the transformer, the presence of repeated groundings on the line, from which wire the line is mounted). I do not consider other grounding systems (TN-S, TN-C, IT).

The most common grounding system for a private house is TT, because a large number of power transmission lines are still made with "bare" aluminum wire and it is impossible to make TN-C-S.

An example of a TT grounding system and metering board assembly is below.

It is more difficult to assemble a metering board with a grounding system. First, as I wrote above, the power grid must be in proper condition. Secondly, taking into account the requirements of the network organization for the presence of a shield with a viewing window, the choice is seriously limited, and in such shields it is sometimes problematic to perform a high-quality separation of PEN into PE and N. But here the RBP-95 terminal block helps constructively.

An example of a TN-C-S grounding system and metering board assembly is below.

Electrical diagram the metering board, as I wrote earlier, depends on the technical specifications that the network organization issued to you.

The simplest metering board consists of an input machine and a meter, to which the input cable is connected to the site or house. But such a scheme has an obvious drawback, if, for example, something happens to the cable, then when you replace it, you will have to break the seal from the meter, and therefore call and wait for the employee of the organization that installed this seal, otherwise, if you break it yourself, it will be serious fine. Therefore, it is better to put another machine after the meter, to which the cable will be connected, or even better, to install a selective fire-prevention RCD.

It is better to install an introductory machine in front of the meter. in a special box so that the network company can seal it in order to exclude the connection of cables to the meter for theft of electricity.

Also, it will definitely not be superfluous in the accounting panel surge arrester (SPD) or surge protection device (SPD), which will save your equipment from impulses of several thousand volts arising from atmospheric (lightning) and switching overvoltages. The device is not cheap and costs several thousand rubles.

Often the network in the TU prescribes the installation of an SPD in mandatory conditions, and if you signed the TU, then you will have to install an SPD. If the TU has not yet been signed, then you can write a reasoned refusal, in which it is indicated that such a requirement for the installation of an SPD is illegal and does not apply to individuals, as well as the Rules for Electrical Installations (PUE) themselves. In such cases, the network removes the SPD clause from the TU or transfers it to the recommendations. But, again, an SPD is a fairly useful device, and if there is a financial opportunity, then install it without hesitation.

It is good to put SPD in the metering panel in front of the meter, because most of the meters are electronic, and often fail after a thunderstorm. If you install an SPD upstream of the meter, then, like an introductory machine, install an SPD in the box for sealing.

If you are just starting to build a house, then it will definitely not hurt you in the accounting panel 220 V socket, and it must be protected with an automatic machine and.

I additionally complete metering boards good oil seals (pressure seals) since the factory ones that come with the kit are of extremely low quality.

Accounting shield. Price.

Shield cost accounting in the minimum configuration of budget components, taking into account the assembly, will be about 9000 rubles:

• body (metal shield).
• introductory three-phase automatic machine.
• one-rate electricity meter.
• three-phase automatic machine for connecting a cable.
• box for sealing the introductory machine.
• ground terminal.