DIY electrical wiring: from diagram to installation. Stages of installing warm electric floors under the tiles How to pull the wire under the tiles

When finishing work, when the installation of ceiling tiles is carried out, it is important to correctly hide the electrical wiring. This will require the services of an electrician. There are several ways to solve the problem of hiding electrical wiring.

Method # 1... If the selected tile is two or more millimeters thicker than the cable itself, you should create a groove on the back of the cover. You need to cut a V-shaped groove. It will hide the wire in itself when the tiles are installed. In order for the wire to lay correctly in the groove, it must be pulled.

Method # 2... In the place where the electrical wire is laid, you need to install a special plastic box. It's called cable duct. Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of the tile. It must be fastened with dowels and self-tapping screws. After that, the wiring is placed in the box. Then it remains only to directly mount the tile.

Method # 3... Here, as in the first case, strobes are made, but not in the tiles, but in the ceiling itself. This procedure must be carried out before the start of installation work. Such electrical work in Chelyabinsk requires certain skills, since a perforator is used. When laying the corrugated hose in the groove, it is necessary to turn off the power supply.

The depth of the groove must be at least 20 millimeters, and the width must be at least 12 millimeters. At the bottom of the groove, fasteners are mounted, consisting of dowels and self-tapping screws with a wire that will press the wiring to the ceiling.

Method # 4... This is not the most convenient and aesthetic method. The wires are laid between the ceiling slabs: either in the place where the slabs are joined together, or in grooves that are cut out on the front surfaces. So that the wiring is not conspicuous, the docking points can be painted in the color of the ceiling. In addition, if the electrical cable is rigid enough, if it is only laid at the joints, it will not be particularly noticeable anyway.

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Today, more and more people give preference to arranging a water heated floor. If you are among this number, then, most likely, ceramic tiles were chosen as the facing material.

This material has excellent technical characteristics. For example, tiles have a high level of thermal conductivity. Thanks to this, the heat is not retained, but quickly enters the room.

However, many are interested in the question of how tiles are laid on a warm floor. The technology is practically no different from laying on a regular floor. Moreover, laying tiles on a warm electric floor is similar to laying tiles on a water-heated floor.

The only difference is that the water circuit immediately hides the floor of the screed, and the electric heating can be open. Therefore, the tiles are placed directly on the electric heating. In this article, we will tell you about the technology of this process.

Features of masonry tiles

Installation on a warm floor tile requires knowledge of some points:

  • The height of the topcoat must match the floor level of the rest of the premises. Similar calculations are performed at the stage of pouring the screed onto the warm floor.
  • Laying tiles on an electric underfloor heating or water heating requires adherence to the thickness of the tile adhesive. Ideally, tile adhesive should be up to 10 mm thick. With a larger layer, the thermal energy will not be dissipated over the entire area of ​​the laid tile, but will be concentrated directly near the pipe or cable.
  • A special adhesive is required for tiles on a warm floor. It has to cope with sudden changes in temperature. On the packaging of the glue, the manufacturer must indicate information about the compatibility of the mixture with the warm floor.
  • It is important to have a project or a photograph of the installed floor heating circuit. If in the future it is necessary to drill a hole in the field, the photo will help you avoid mistakes by breaking through the heating circuit.
  • Turning on the heating when the tile adhesive dries is prohibited. The adhesive must dry at its natural temperature. Masonry for water heating requires starting and filling the system with a coolant under pressure.
  • The heating circuit must be securely fixed to the floor. Pipes or cables must not leave the base. The screed holds the pipes well, and the wires must be securely fixed.

These are the main nuances that are taken into account when laying tiles and making a warm floor with your own hands.

Tile laying instructions

A set of such a tool is being prepared for work:

  1. The level is small and large.
  2. Crosses to form the same seam.
  3. Rule.
  4. Three trowels, notched, regular and rubber.
  5. Yardstick.
  6. Tile cutting device.
  7. Chopping cord.
  8. Drill or hammer drill.
  9. A bucket for mixing tile glue.
  10. Construction mixer for mixing glue.
  11. Pencil.
  12. Rag to remove adhesive from tiles.
  13. Building corner.
  14. Masking tape.
  15. Tiled floor.
  16. Primer brush.

For laying tiles on a warm water floor, the following material is required:

  1. Ceramic tile.
  2. Special tile adhesive.
  3. Grout.

All work consists of several sequential stages:

  1. Surface preparation.
  2. Markup.
  3. Primer.
  4. Glue preparation.
  5. Tile laying.
  6. Grouting.

The technology for laying tiles on a warm floor does not differ from laying on a regular floor. Let's consider each of the listed stages separately.

Surface preparation

Make sure that the installation work of the warm floor has come to an end. The system is working properly and has been tested / pressure tested. The tile base must be dry and level.

Laying tiles on the screed is much easier. To do this, try to fill it in level. In this case, the tiled layer will be minimal. Any dirt and mortar build-up are removed.

The cleaned and prepared screed is covered with a primer. The use of a deep penetration primer is recommended. After two hours, the surface is re-primed for better adhesion of the tile adhesive.

Important! Do not forget to turn off the underfloor heating. Otherwise, the glue will dry abruptly and it will not hold the tile..

Markup

Before laying the tiles on the warm floor, marking is done. It is necessary to decide on what scheme to lay it. For example, there will be a lot of scraps diagonally. You can lay them apart so that the vertical seams do not coincide. With normal laying, all seams, vertical and horizontal, will match.

Important! The choice of the installation scheme does not affect the quality of the floor heating. It is necessary to navigate from personal preference..

Having decided on the layout scheme, markings are applied to the floor. Beat the line of the first row with a chop cord with paint. This guide will help you lay out all the tiles evenly. If you have a pattern, lay the coating on the floor dry. This will help you mark up correctly.

Glue preparation

After marking, tile adhesive is prepared. Kneading is done based on the manufacturer's recommendations. Pour water into the mixing container. Add a mixture of a given proportion to it.

If you do the opposite, then the glue will be taken up in a lump that is difficult to break. The tile adhesive is mixed with a construction mixer. The finished consistency should resemble a creamy mass.

Check the quality of the adhesive: pour the mixture onto the spatula, it should not drip or fall when tilting the spatula. The mixture should be held on a spatula.

note

After preparing the tile adhesive, allow 15 minutes to rest. After this time, re-stir the glue.

In the absence of practice, the speed of laying tiles will be slow. Therefore, do not mix the glue too much. Calculate the batch for 30 minutes of work. During this time, the glue will not dry out and no crust will form on it.

Laying tiles

  • The prepared adhesive is applied with a notched trowel to the tile and the substrate.
  • The resulting grooves will give better adhesion.
  • Apply glue to the floor immediately on 1 m2 with an even trowel in a thin layer.
  • The adhesive is applied to the tiles with a notched trowel.
  • The edges and middle are well smeared.
  • Apply the tile to the floor according to the markings.
  • With a little effort, press the tile to the floor.
  • The level must be applied. The level measures the tile in all positions: horizontally, vertically and diagonally.
  • Lay a few more tiles nearby. Expose them strictly horizontally.
  • Place crosses between the tiles, forming a uniform and identical seam.
  • When you press on the tile, some of the glue will come out into the seam. It must be removed immediately.
  • If adhesive comes into contact with the face of the tile, remove it with a damp cloth.

note

A gap of up to 20 mm is left between the wall and the cladding. It is required as an expansion joint.

After laying the tiles and setting the glue, all the crosses are carefully removed. Before the glue has completely set, make sure that there are no mixture residues in the seams. Otherwise, the grout will not adhere well.

When laying near walls, pipes and other elements, trimming is necessary. For cutting, a manual or automatic tile cutter is used. All cuts must be flat and free of jaggies.

Grouting

A special mixture is used for grouting. It is recommended to purchase a moisture resistant grout for the floor. Fill all the seams with the prepared mixture evenly. Do not leave sagging on the face of the cladding.

Once dry, it will be difficult to wash it off. After 30 minutes, the surface is washed with a damp cloth and cold water. The floor must be free of streaks and other contaminants.

On this, laying tiles on a warm floor can be considered complete. Such coverage:

  1. perfectly tolerates numerous cleaning cycles;
  2. does not change color upon contact with chemicals;
  3. complies with the established rules of hygiene;
  4. evenly distributes the heat energy of the warm floor over the entire area.

When the cladding is dry, you can turn on the warm floor. The drying time of the adhesive mixture can be determined according to the manufacturer's instructions on the bag.

Conclusion

So, from this article you could find out how the installation of tiles on the heating surface is carried out. Considering all the tips in this article, you should be able to do the job perfectly.

We hope you've got some useful food for thought. Share your experience in the comments at the end of the article. Your experience will be useful for novice craftsmen.

Laying tiles on a warm floor - video

obplitke.ru

How to properly lay ceramic tiles on a warm floor?

Underfloor heating is gaining more and more popularity. For its topcoat, laminate, parquet or ceramic tiles are used. Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages. Ceramic tiles are often used for flooring in a bathroom, toilet, kitchen, hallway. Correct laying of tiles on a warm floor is a guarantee of its reliability and durability.

General view of a warm floor tiled with ceramic tiles

Types of flooring for tiles

First of all, you need to figure out what a warm floor is, what its types are, how they are mounted. This information will help you lay it out correctly.

Underfloor heating is a multi-layer system consisting of a heater, a heating element, a load-bearing cement-sand screed and a topcoat.

There are two types of underfloor heating suitable for laying ceramic tiles:

  • electric;
  • water.

Electric

It is worth considering the features of installing an electric underfloor heating under ceramic tiles. It is a suitable system for veneering with ceramics.

There are two types of heating:

  • Heating with cables. First of all, the base is examined. If it is without obvious potholes, then the cable is laid on it. The base is leveled with a cement-sand screed. Then a layer of insulation with a thickness of 50-70 mm is laid. On it - waterproofing. After that, heating elements are mounted, which are poured with a cement-sand screed or a ready-made mixture for a warm floor. Then ceramic granite is laid on a special glue for a warm floor. Such a system "eats" up to 100 mm of the height of the room.

Underfloor heating electric cable laid on a metal grid

  • Heating with mats. They need a flat surface to lay them. Any unevenness or sharp chipping can cause a violation of the insulation of the wires and subsequently the failure of the entire system. If there are cracks or potholes on the rough base, they are repaired. Then the mats are mounted, which are combined into a single system. After that, their performance is checked. At the final stage, ceramic granite is laid on a special adhesive for a warm floor. The thickness of such a base is only 40-50 mm, which is significantly less than that of a similar system with cable heating.
Infrared mats for tiles

This is a kind of electric heating. The infrared floor consists of bimetallic or carbon plates, sewn into a polyethylene film.

Installation of infrared mats on a warm floor

For porcelain stoneware substrates, it is better to use carbon plate mats. Bimetallic - subject to corrosion.

First of all, the surface for laying the mats is checked. All irregularities are repaired, or a leveling screed is poured. Then a layer of heat-reflecting material is laid. A fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 30 × 30 mm is mounted on it.

Infrared floor rolls 1000 mm wide are rolled onto the finished base. Then the entire system is connected to an electrical circuit. Ceramic granite is laid on the finished floor with special glue.

The power cable must be located directly under the tile.

Water

He found no use in apartments. Suitable for heating large areas in private houses and public buildings.

An example of laying polypropylene pipes on a prepared base

First of all, the base is leveled. The screed is poured over the entire floor surface. Then a damper tape is laid, on which a layer of insulation with a thickness of 50-70 mm is mounted. The most common thermal insulation material is mineral wool or expanded polystyrene.

Hot water pipes are mounted on the prepared base and connected to the general heating system. A cement-sand screed is poured on top. You can use a ready-made self-leveling floor. At the final stage, ceramic granite is laid. Water floor heating "eats" up to 150 mm of the height of the room.

The optimal base for laying porcelain stoneware is an electrically heated floor. It is suitable for small living spaces, baths, toilets, hallways. The technology for tiling electric and water-heated floors is the same.

Finishing a warm floor with tiles

The rules for laying it on a warm floor do not differ from the rules for cladding an ordinary surface. The exception is the choice of tile adhesive. For underfloor heating, there is a special glue with increased ductility. It contains thermoregulatory additives.

Materials and tools

  • Tile adhesive for underfloor heating;
  • Grout for joints;
  • Deep penetration soil or concrete contact;
  • Comb trowel, 100-150 mm;
  • Rubber spatula, 50-70 mm;
  • Crosses for seams;
  • Electric drill:
  • Rubber hammer;
  • Mixer attachment;
  • Building level, 700-1000 mm;
  • Tile cutter or glass cutter;
  • Mastic;
  • Paint roller, 250 mm;
  • Protective rubber gloves and goggles;
  • Thin cord and chalk.

Calculation of the amount of material

First of all, the area of ​​the room is calculated. Then the number of boxes with tiles is determined. Each of them shows the area. A 10% margin for trimming and fitting is added to the result.

The amount of adhesive depends on the unevenness of the substrate and the thickness of the layer. Average values ​​for consumption per square meter are shown on the packaging. Soil rate 200-300 gr./m 2.

Preparation

Before laying the tiles, preparatory work is carried out. Most often, the base of the underfloor heating under the tiles is a cement-sand screed. It is impregnated with deep penetration soil or concrete contact. Concrete warm floors are covered with plastic wrap or impregnated with bitumen mastic.

Deep penetration soil application on cement-sand screed

Drying time for the soil is 2-3 hours. To improve adhesion, the floor can be treated 2 times.

Room layout

Tiling guide lines

Laying tiles on a warm floor can be done in two main ways: in rows or at a distance. In the first case, all horizontal and vertical seams in the rows coincide. In the second, the warm floor is staggered. The installation method does not affect performance.

The layout of the room starts from the longest wall. With the help of chalk and a thin cord, the first row is beaten off. The rest of the room is marked from it. This method is suitable for classic styling without additional patterns.

When you need to put ceramic granite with a pattern, they beat off the diagonals. This is done with rope and chalk. The intersection point is the center of the room. The whole drawing is laid out from him.

If you plan to lay out a drawing or a diagonal, then all the tiles are first laid out "dry". This is done to check calculations and actual layouts.

Laying technology

  • Preparation of tile adhesive for underfloor heating. To knead it, use a plastic or metal bucket. The glue is prepared in two stages. At the first, part of the water is poured, and the dry mixture is poured. The components are mixed using an electric drill with a mortar attachment. On the second - the remaining water and dry mixture are added to the bucket. Everything is thoroughly mixed. The finished consistency should be slightly thicker than sour cream.

Mixing tile adhesive in a plastic bucket with a drill

Pilot glue sets quickly. Therefore, a small volume is kneaded at a time - for 30-40 minutes of work.

  • The adhesive is applied either to the substrate or to the tiles. When applied to the substrate, use a regular and comb trowel. Conventional - the mixture is leveled, comb - grooves are made for better adhesion to ceramic tiles. The size of the surface spread with glue at one time should not exceed 1 m 2. When applied to tiles, a trowel and comb trowel are used. The master pushes the glue onto the back of the ceramic tile. It stretches over the entire surface with a comb-type trowel.
  • Styling. In both cases, each element is applied to the base and is slightly pressed in with smooth undulating movements. Then it is tapped with a rubber mallet. The action is repeated with the next item. With the help of a building level, the horizontalness of the surface is checked. If the tile sags or heaves, then it is removed, the deficiency is corrected. Then she returns to her seat. To maintain an equal distance between the tiles, crosses are inserted into them: two on each side of the tile. A gap of 10-20 mm is left between the wall and the tile. It plays the role of an expansion joint. After the glue hardens, all crosses are removed.

The setting time for tile adhesive for underfloor heating is 24 hours. After 72 hours, the floor can be loaded with furniture.

  • Trimming and tiling. If possible, uneven and cut pieces are placed in corners or under furniture. A cardboard or paper template is used to frame the areas around the pipes. It is made for each item. Then the shape is transferred to the tile and cut out. The finished pieces are put into place. Depending on the strength, ceramic granite is cut with a glass cutter, tile cutter or grinder with a circle for cutting ceramics. The grinder is used to cut durable types of flooring that are rarely installed at home. The tile cutter is used to cut large quantities of ceramic tiles. A glass cutter is required for curly trimming small areas. However, many professional floor tile installers use a glass cutter as their primary tool.

Using a glass cutter to cut porcelain stoneware

Porcelain stoneware is cut only from the smooth face.

Seam processing

They are of two types:

  • Installation - between the tiles. Their width varies from 1.5 to 3 mm. Less than 1.5 mm is considered a seamless installation. The seams are sealed 24 hours after the installation of the floor covering is completed. First of all, all the crosses are removed. Then all the seams are sealed with grout with a rubber trowel. The movement of the spatula is strictly along the seam.

Sealing the joints between tiles with a rubber trowel

After 30-40 minutes after grouting, the joints are washed with cold water.

  • Perimeter - between the tile and the wall. These are expansion joints. They are sealed with silicone or rubber gasket. Then they are closed with a plastic skirting board.

This completes the laying of ceramic tiles.This is a durable and reliable coating that:

  • perfectly withstands hundreds of cleaning cycles;
  • does not change color when chemicals come into contact with it;
  • complies with all hygienic norms and rules;
  • distributes heat evenly throughout the room;
  • pleasing to the eye.

Video

Useful facts

  • In Soviet times, tiles were soaked in water before laying. Nowadays, many "old school" finishers continue to perform this action, although this is no longer necessary.
  • The problem with slippery tiles is solved by purchasing a special composition. It is applied to the surface and protects it for a long time. A budget bathroom option is a regular rubber mat.
  • All modern floor tiles are manufactured industrially. There is one company in the world that produces and paints ceramic granite by hand. The cost per square meter of such coverage is beyond the reach of an ordinary person. Therefore, we must remember that all the assurances of the sellers in the hardware store about the exclusivity of the collection are most likely a PR move.

teplota.guru

Laying tiles on a warm floor (electric, water) with your own hands

Underfloor heating is one of the types of modern heating equipment used, depending on the region of residence, as the main or additional means of heating residential buildings or apartments.

The so-called underfloor heating is subdivided into electric and water - according to the design of the heating circuit included in their design, mounted under the finishing of the base. In electrical systems, the circuit is made of a self-heating cable or infrared film elements, and in water systems it is a hollow tube with a coolant circulating through it (water, antifreeze). The installation of the contours of these types of underfloor heating is carried out according to technologies tied to a wide range of factors - the characteristics of the base and the room, and therefore differing from each other, but at the end of the installation, the heating elements of any of these devices need a protective coating and finishing.

The task of this heating system is to heat the floor covering arranged on top of the contour and then maintain the temperature of its surface at a certain level, so that the heat from the floor is transferred to the air in the room, and contact with the structure, previously always cold to the touch, becomes comfortable for residents. To ensure these functions, the floor cladding must be made of materials with a sufficient degree of thermal conductivity, therefore, the best option for finishing warm floors is ceramic laying.

How to properly lay tiles on a warm floor, we will consider in more detail, taking into account the most common situations and factors.

Justification of using ceramics for underfloor heating

Most types of tiles are made of materials that are less dense than concrete. The difference in density causes different coefficients of thermal expansion of the finished base and tiles, which is fraught with delamination of the cladding at the onset and end of the heating season - at times of temperature jumps caused by turning on or off the heating equipment. Accordingly, the concentrated heating of the floor structure by the underfloor heating system causes an even more significant thermal expansion of these materials. Considering these factors, the question of whether it is possible to lay ceramic tiles on a warm floor is quite natural.

The answer is unequivocal - yes, you can. And that's why:

  1. For finishing warm floors, it is advisable to use tiles of high density (low porosity), the thermal insulation properties of which are therefore low - natural stone, porcelain stoneware, brooms, monocottura. In terms of density, these materials are close to the concrete of floor slabs, so the difference in the values ​​of thermal expansion is insignificant.
  2. The efficiency of space heating by the underfloor heating system is achieved due to the large heat transfer area, therefore the temperature of the heating elements used in them is low. Accordingly, the values ​​of thermal expansion of materials in contact with each other are insignificant and, what is important, there is no danger of getting burned.
  3. The elasticity of modern tile adhesives and grouting allows them to maintain solidity in the event of significant deformations of the glued surfaces and thereby prevent the tile cladding from peeling off from the base.

Thus, laying tiles on a warm electric floor or a base with water heating is a perfectly reasonable and reasonable decision.

Installation of ceramics on a warm floor

The technology for laying tiles on a warm floor is selected depending on how the installation of the heating elements was carried out - "wet" or "dry".

In the "wet" method, a cement-sand mortar screed is made over the heating circuit, water or electric. The question of how to lay tiles on a warm floor, in this case, is solved in the same way as facing a floor surface without heating.

There are several "dry" methods for installing underfloor heating. The most common ones are:

  • Special mats with grooves for the heating circuit are placed on the supporting base. After installation in the grooves of pipes or cables, GVP (gypsum fiber board), DSP (cement-bonded particle board) or multilayer plywood with hydrophobic impregnation are laid on top of the mats, on which ceramics are placed.
  • On top of the heating circuit, a layer of fine-grained loose aggregate with good thermal conductivity (slag) is arranged, which is also covered with HWP or DSP.
  • In wooden floorboards, using a cutter, grooves are cut out to accommodate a heating circuit in them, after the installation of which it is also necessary to lay the pressed structure slabs on the floor.

In the listed "dry" methods of installing underfloor heating, the material for arranging the heating circuits is different, but in all three cases the base to be coated is not concrete, but organic material, which is finished with tiles using special technologies.

It does not matter whether the "wet" method was used for laying heating elements or "dry" - laying tiles on a warm water floor is performed in the same way as on an electrically heated base.

Facing with tiles underfloor heating under a cement screed

The main point in preparation for this work is the choice of material - ceramics and adhesives.

Natural stone, porcelain stoneware, monocottura are cladding materials of high density and hardness that meet all the requirements for underfloor heating. But ceramic tiles should also not have geometry defects. Any deviation of the sheets from the configuration and dimensions declared by the manufacturer will entail visual defects in the finish - protruding or recessed corners of the ceramics, a difference in the width of the seams.

Choosing between a seam or seamless way of laying ceramics, it is better to dwell on the first option - the material for grouting the joints will partially take over the thermal expansion of each cladding element, and the total increase in the size of the decorative shell with this method of finishing will be less than with seamless installation.

Laying and grouting compounds for ceramics on heated floors must have sufficient elasticity, good thermal conductivity and high adhesion to the materials to be bonded.

  • "Ceresit" (CM-14 EXTRA, CM-16, CM-17) - for tiles made of porcelain stoneware, monocottura, broom.
  • "Ceresit SM-115" - for facing from natural stone (marble, limestone).
  • Bergauf Keramic Express - for large-format ceramics (up to 1 m2).
  • Knauf Flex - for finishing with ceramic and granite tiles in rooms with high humidity.

Adhesives produced by Knauf, Prospectors, Unis, Litokol are in no less demand. The choice of the required material is not difficult - the characteristics, scope and consumption of each of the types of the listed adhesive mixtures are described in detail on the packaging.

Before laying the ceramics, the evenness of the bearing screed is checked using a bubble level and an even rail 2 m long - at a given length, the differences in height should not exceed 5 mm. If irregularities in excess of this value are detected, the screed is leveled using a wide spatula; for this purpose, tile adhesive can be used.

Having decided on the method of laying the tiles (straight, diagonally), it is better to make a preliminary marking of the location of the ceramics on the floor. This is done so that the trimmed elements, if any, are located symmetrically relative to the selected symmetry axes of the room - diagonals or lines connecting the midpoints of opposite walls. In some cases, with artistic flooring, the installation of ceramics begins from the middle of the floor or its most open area to the overview.

If the walls of the room are also tiled, then the tiles of the vertical surfaces must rest on the ceramics of the floor - such a joint forms a "lock", which ensures the impermeability of the interface to water.

Summarizing the above, we note that all the rules used when laying ceramics on ordinary substrates must be followed when finishing heated floors. But, in addition to these rules, there are specific, mandatory nuances of laying tiles on a warm floor:

  • The underfloor heating system within 28 days after laying the bearing screed should not be switched on in a mode in which the laid concrete warms up to a temperature above 28 0 C.
  • After the final hardening of the concrete, it is necessary to warm up the floors by turning on the heating in the normal mode for 2-3 days.
  • Laying ceramic tiles on a warm floor must also be carried out at a screed surface temperature of 25-28 0 C.
  • Heating the floor to a temperature above 28 0 C is not allowed 12-14 days after the end of the installation of ceramics on it. During this time, complete curing and drying of the tile adhesive should occur, after which the grouting is performed. The inclusion of a warm floor after laying the tiles in the heating mode of the room is carried out with a dried trowel compound.

Installation of ceramics on dry heated floors

Laying ceramic tiles in this case requires more complex and time-consuming preparation of the base.

The joints of GVP, DSP or multilayer plywood, under which the heating circuit is mounted, are sealed with silicone. Along the perimeter of the room along the sheet flooring, a damper tape 5 cm wide is attached to the wall - it will take on the thermal expansion of the future cement screed.

A day later, after the silicone has cured, a reinforcing mesh is mounted to the sheet flooring. Reinforcement will allow the concrete layer to work better in bending and tension.

It is better to use a steel mesh, with a mesh of 20x20 to 50x50 mm in size and a wire thickness of 1.5-2.0 mm. The mesh is fastened to the slabs with self-tapping screws in a staggered manner with a pitch of 150-200 mm. Then, on top of the mesh, it is necessary to perform a screed - put a cement-sand mortar with a layer of 3-4 cm. , the screed is moistened daily with water without flooding. In 4 weeks, the screed must completely harden and dry, acquiring a light gray color over the entire surface.Before laying ceramic tiles, the screed is primed with an aqueous solution of latex in a ratio of 1: 4 or one of the ready-made primers. The tiles should be laid on the tile adhesive, the layer of which after the tile correction should be no more than 1 cm.

A base made of GWP or DSP is inferior in strength characteristics to concrete, therefore, cladding made of heavy natural materials should not be laid on them.

And, accordingly, on the contrary - laying the mosaic on a warm floor, mounted under a sheet flooring, is a reasonable solution, since the specific gravity of such a finish is small, the small size of the mosaic elements determines their strength, and the large seam area compensates for a significant proportion of thermal expansion of the facing.

Conclusion

Laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands is an operation whose complexity is not much higher than finishing a conventional floor base. Its main feature is the correct choice of materials, which should not be feared with detailed instructions on modern packaging.

zonaplitki.ru

Laying tiles on a warm floor

Ceramic tiles are most often used for finishing the floor in which heated floors are concreted. This material is an excellent solution as it has a high level of thermal conductivity. So, the heat passing through it will practically not linger and be lost. However, before you start tiling your floor, there are some details to be learned. In this article, we will tell you about how to install tiles on a warm floor.

What you need to know

When laying tiles on the floor, it is important to understand that in the case of underfloor heating, a special approach is required. Moreover, the technology directly depends on the installation method. For example, when installing a water-heated floor, concreting is carried out. It is very easy to lay tiles on a flat screed. It is quite a different matter when it comes to electric heating. The screed is not always poured. For example, tiles can be immediately laid on the installed heating mats. It turns out that the heating element will be located directly in the tile adhesive. In the first and second case, the work is quite realistic to do all the work with your own hands.

Features of the floor device

So, if you decide to carry out the work yourself, then you need to take into account several important nuances, which will be described in this article. First of all, you need to remember that the height of the tile finish should be at the same level with all other rooms. Therefore, even at the stage of manufacturing a warm floor, you should make the appropriate measurements.

Advice! If the floor height of other rooms is initially much higher, then the heating cake may be thicker. For example, it is possible to increase the layer on thermal insulation, but not only due to the screed. In this case, the heating efficiency will be reduced to zero.

If the screed is already ready, then when laying the tiles, the minimum layer of tile adhesive should be at least 10 mm. Otherwise, the generated heat will not be dissipated over the entire floor surface, and the floor heating will be in stripes, only in those places where the heating cable or pipe is laid. Therefore, you should not strive to make as small a layer of tile adhesive or floor screed as possible. So, if you have already taken into account all these details, you can start directly to work. Next, we provide you with step-by-step instructions for all the work.

Tile laying instructions

First of all, you need to choose a special adhesive for combination with a warm floor. On the packaging of the glue there must be a corresponding sign indicating the possibility of using the mixture with underfloor heating.

So, for work you need the following set of tools and materials:

  • Drill.
  • Construction mixer.
  • Rubber spatula.
  • Grout for joints.
  • Spatula with teeth.
  • Floor primer.
  • Special tile adhesive.
  • Crosses to form a uniform seam.
  • Rubber hammer.
  • Tile cutter for cutting tiles.
  • Roulette.
  • Pencil and marker.
  • Building level.
  • Container for mixing tile glue.

First of all, it is necessary to correctly calculate the required material. To do this, you need to know the floor area. Remember not to buy back-to-back tiles and tile adhesives. Be sure to make a small margin of up to 10% of the amount received.

After this, the preparation of the base is carried out. We will consider the option when the warm floor is already filled with a screed. Considering that in most cases the screed is made on the basis of a cement-sand composition, its surface must be impregnated with a primer. You can use a deep penetration primer such as concrete contact. It will also be useful to make waterproofing. In order not to create additional obstacles to overcome thermal energy, it is better to use a coating waterproofing.

After applying the primer, the floors should dry for about three hours. Then reapply the primer coat. This will increase the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the floor. The next step is to mark the floor. Here you should immediately decide on what scheme the tiles will be laid. For example, diagonally, staggered or just in a straight line seam to seam. Having decided on the scheme, you can apply markings on the floor to make it easier to lay tiles on a warm floor. Remember that the quality of underfloor heating does not depend on the way you choose to lay the tiles. Now let's consider the technology of laying tiles on a warm floor.

Tile installation steps

So, first of all, prepare the tile adhesive. Mix according to the manufacturer's instructions. There is a recipe for the preparation on the package of the glue. By sticking to it, you can prepare the perfect glue consistency. Kneading is carried out using a drill and a construction mixer.

Advice! When the adhesive is thoroughly mixed, let it sit for 15 minutes. Then stir again and it is ready to use.

If you have no experience in laying tiles, then do not do a large batch. So, the glue must be applied to the tile itself. It is leveled with a notched trowel. Also, glue should be applied to the floor. Spread the glue one square meter at a time. Add glue to the edges and corners of the tile.

One of the main features of laying tiles is that the space between the tiles and the floor must be completely filled with glue. There should not be any voids. Therefore, you should strictly control this moment. Some experts deliberately put a few millimeters more glue on the tile, and then press it in. Due to these actions, excess glue comes out through the seam, which will be an indicator that the glue has completely filled the entire space.

So, according to the markings, apply the tiles to the floor. Press it in moderately. Place a few more tiles at once. This will allow you to attach a level and align them on all sides of the plane. By lightly pressing down on the tiles, glue will come out of the seams. It should be removed immediately, as a special grout will be placed in the seams. To form the same seam, be sure to use crosses. When laying, glue can come into contact with the face of the tiles. It must be removed immediately with a damp sponge or soft cloth. If the glue is left on, it will dry out and then there is a risk of damaging the floor covering.

Important! A small gap of up to 20 mm must be left between the tile and the wall. This gap will serve as an expansion joint. When exposed to thermal energy, the surface can expand. For this reason, this gap should be closely monitored.

When the floor surface is completely tiled, it is unacceptable to include underfloor heating. The tile adhesive must acquire the required hardness in natural conditions. This is the only way to achieve perfect quality. In the process of laying, you will also need to trim the tiles for this, a special tile cutter is used, it can be mechanical or automatic.

After completing the masonry, when the tile adhesive has dried, you just have to grout the joints. For underfloor heating, you must use a special grout that does not allow moisture to pass through. This will be an additional barrier to moisture penetration. Do not rush when grouting. It is imperative that all seams are thoroughly filled so that there are no voids. When grouting is done, the tiles must be thoroughly washed. But this should not be done immediately after grouting, because it can be washed all over. Wait a short time for the grout to set.

Advice! The resulting gap between the tile and the wall should not be filled with grout. This expansion joint should be filled with silicone sealant.

Conclusion

So, here we have considered all the features of how the installation of tiles on warm floors is performed. There are no special differences from ordinary masonry, however, there are also small nuances. If you listen to the advice from the article, then you will be able to make a high-quality coating on top of the warm floor. As a result, during the heating season you will enjoy the warmth and comfort inside the building. We hope this article helped you figure out how to handle all the work with your own hands. In addition, we invite you to watch the prepared video material. He will help you consolidate all the theory provided from this article. And if you already had experience of such work, then share it by leaving comments at the end of the article.

bouw.ru

Laying tiles on a warm floor: instructions and preparation steps

Laying tiles on a warm floor requires some knowledge and training. The technology is not particularly complex, but there are certain points, non-observance of which will nullify all efforts, and lead to damage to expensive material.

Types of floors for tiles

Before you start laying work, you need to understand the specifics of each type of warm floor, what it consists of and what types it is. Such home insulation is not expensive and almost everyone can afford it.

First you need to decide which type of heating is most suitable:

  • Electric.
  • Water.

Underfloor heating types

Electric

Electric underfloor heating is a multi-layer complex consisting of insulation, heating element, screed and finishing coating. For the final layer, especially in the bathroom or kitchen, tiles are most suitable.

Depending on the heating element used, the electrical coating is of the following types:

  • Wired.
  • Infrared.
  • Using electric mats.

Types of electric underfloor heating

Each species has its own characteristics and characteristics. To determine the type of floor, the consumer most often starts from two aspects - the initial costs for its installation, the subsequent costs for operation.

Infrared heating is most beneficial. At the initial stage, you will have to spend a little more than for the installation of other coatings, but subsequently the family budget is seriously saved when paying for electricity.

Such a coating is the least "capricious", suitable for any ceramic tile or laminate.

Water

Installation of a water floor is very costly, but it pays off for subsequent operation. Experts believe that such a coating is not very effective and unsafe.

For its laying, a set of pipes of a certain section is used. The principle is the same as for a central heating system. Only in this case, the heater is not mounted on the wall, but on the floor. Hot water circulates through the pipes. They can be covered with a screed, or a dry installation system can be applied, and then the final layer is placed - ceramic tiles.

Tile laying instructions

Of course, it is better to entrust the laying of tiles to specialists, but this is associated with high financial costs. Therefore, with a certain preparation and study of the rules, this business will be within the power of everyone.

Before starting work, you should consider the following points:

  • Underfloor heating should be on the same level with the rest of the surfaces in the house.
  • The screed layer should not be less than one centimeter, otherwise there is no heat dissipation over the entire surface of the tile.
  • An electric floor cannot be placed under furniture or covered with anything, if you do not follow these requirements, all elements will burn out very quickly.

Tile laying stages

Tiling begins only after all installation work is completed and the elements are fixed. Actions are carried out in the following sequence:

Phased tile laying

  1. Dilute the glue according to the instructions, apply it to the area with a square, the sides of which are equal to 4 ceramic tiles folded side by side.
  2. A layer of tile adhesive is applied to the back of the tile with a spatula.
  3. Carefully place the tiles on the surface, lightly pressing them against the floor in the middle; each time you need to ensure that the installation is even.
  4. To maintain an even seam between the tile squares, it is necessary to use plastic crosses.
  5. The crosses can only be removed after the surface has been completely leveled.
  6. After the fixing compound has dried, you can start grouting.

Before starting work, you must carefully read the instructions for using the adhesive. The main point is the drying time.

Until the glue has dried, you can remove the curvature in the styling and pull out the cross. After it has completely dried, it will be impossible to do this.

For the professional performance of work on your own, you will need the following tools and materials:

Necessary tools for tiling

  • Adhesive designed for laying tiles on warm floors.
  • Grout for joints.
  • Soft rubber spatula.
  • Metal notched spatula.
  • Plastic crosses.
  • Level.
  • Tile cutter.
  • Ceramic tile.

When buying a tile, it is worth adding 15% to the area of ​​the covered surface. Since part of the purchased volume will go to trimming or fighting.

When choosing a grout color, it is worth starting from the tone of the tile. The grout should be slightly darker.

Until all the components are completely dry, it is absolutely impossible to turn on the floor heating system. It takes up to three weeks to dry completely.

How to prepare tiles for laying on a warm floor

Before you start laying the tiled layer, you need to make sure that the "warm floor" system is working properly. All wires and communications must be completely hidden.

Cement floor screed device

Usually, a cement-sand screed is used to hide the elements. It should be smooth, even and completely dry.

Any dirt from the surface is removed, irregularities are erased. The main thing is that the screed is filled in level, then it will be much easier to lay the tiles.

The screed must be coated with a layer of deep penetration primer or concrete contact. It will take two hours for the formulations to dry. Then the procedure should be repeated to ensure better adhesion of the tile.

Do not priming or tiling immediately after checking the system. It must be turned off and the surface must be completely cooled. Otherwise, the glue base will dry out and will not hold the top layer.

Layout of the room for laying tiles

Before laying the tiles, you need to mark the floor.

It is even worth drawing a layout diagram. This is especially important when using multi-colored tiles or laying patterns, edging.

Tile laying scheme

There are three main laying patterns:

  • Diagonally.
  • Horizontally.
  • In a runaway.

In the first case, a large amount of material is lost. You can, in general, use squares of different sizes and lay them apart.

All this must be clearly indicated on a sheet of paper, where the marking scheme is displayed in a reduced size.

Then the scheme is proportionally transferred to the floor. Beginners should completely mark the entire surface, with a bright highlight of the points. The marking is carried out using a chopping line with paint or chalk.

The main thing is to determine the line of the first row. It is measured from the longest wall. Then the rest of the room is marked. This method is relevant for tiles without a pattern.

Tile laying options

For a tiled layer with a pattern, you need to draw not a horizontal, but a diagonal.

Using a long tape measure or rope, we connect the corners of the room diagonally. The intersection of the lines is the center of the room. It is from this place that the markup begins.

After completing the markup, it is worth laying out the tiles and checking how correctly the main lines are drawn.

The way the tiles are laid does not at all affect the functional features of the warm floor. Therefore, you can follow your individual preferences.

Glue preparation stage

After marking and laying the tiles dry, you can start the main work. It all starts with the preparation of tile glue.

To do this you need:

  • The main mixture.
  • Capacity.
  • Drill or hammer drill (used for better mixing of the adhesive).

Cooking rules are displayed in the instructions from the manufacturer. Strict adherence to it will ensure the receipt of a solid adhesive substance. Do not knead the entire composition at once. It is better to do this in small portions, since after drying, it can no longer be used.

Preparation of tile adhesive

The required amount of water is poured into the prepared container. Then the mixture is added and mixed thoroughly. If you do the opposite, you will get a large number of lumps that will be difficult to break. The finished glue has the consistency of thick sour cream.

A small amount of the mixture can be mixed by hand using a regular stick. It will take a longer time. Better to use a drill, hammer drill or construction mixer.

The composition should not be liquid. This is checked as follows: you need to put a small amount of the prepared mass on the spatula and tilt it. If the mixture holds, does not drip or drip, a quality adhesive is obtained.

After kneading, the mass should stand for 10-15 minutes. Then it shuffles again. After that, the composition is ready for use.

Seam processing process

After the tiles are laid and completely dry, the joints are processed. For this, a special moisture-resistant grout is purchased. It can be sold in a store ready for use.

The mixture is applied to a rubber spatula, with which all joints are evenly filled. The grout should be slightly below the main tile covering, that is, it should not protrude above the surface.

The layout and movement of a rubber spatula when grouting

Do not wait until the grout is completely dry. Not later than half an hour later, excess stains must be washed off with warm water and a soft cloth. If you delay a little, the dirt will dry out and it will be very difficult to remove it.

Laying ceramic tiles with your own hands does not require any in-depth knowledge. You need some skill and free time.

Subsequently, you can get an ideal ceramic surface that will firmly adhere to the warm floor for many years.

Video: Laying tiles on a warm floor

promzn.ru

Is it possible and how to install an electric warm floor on a tile?

Is it possible to install an electric underfloor heating without dismantling the tiles and close it with ceramic tiles?
Marina

Expert response

Good afternoon, Marina!

Laying a new ceramic coating on top of an electric underfloor heating, laid on an old tile, is allowed. In this case, it is important to follow a few rules.

  1. It is necessary to carefully analyze whether an increase in the floor height by 20-25 mm will hinder the opening of doors, hide engineering communications, etc.
  2. The old base must be monolithic. To obtain information about its quality, tap the entire tile with a wooden mallet. If necessary, individual tiles are removed, and the voids are filled with cement-sand mortar.
  3. To increase the adhesion of the old coating, it is recommended to walk on it with a grinder with a diamond disc, make notches, drill, etc. A less effective way is to treat the base with primers such as "Betonkontakt".
  4. Part of the glue is applied to the old tiles, after which the heating mats are laid. After that, according to the usual technology, new ceramic tiles are laid. The total thickness of the adhesive layer should not exceed 10-15 mm.
  5. The overlap of the seams of the new and old coating is not allowed.

As you can see, the difficulty lies only in preparing the subfloor. Nevertheless, if possible, it is better to remove the old tile, and put a layer of thermal insulation in its place. This will prevent heat leakage into the floor and reduce energy costs.

Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know a lot of nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

aqua-rmnt.com

Laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands (photo, video)

In a modern home, a warm floor is not a luxury, but an objective necessity. Especially if the family has small children. It creates a cozy atmosphere in the home and can help reduce heating costs.

Systems "Warm floor" by the type of heating element are divided into water and electrical. Each of them has both advantages and disadvantages, analyzing which each person makes his choice.

Having decided on the type of heating, the owner of the house is again faced with a dilemma - which type of flooring is more suitable for his new floor.

What is this article about

Which flooring is the best for a warm floor?

Of all the known options for floor heating, linoleum is least suitable. After all, when heated, it becomes soft and can easily deform with the least mechanical stress. In addition, inexpensive types of linoleum have a large proportion of a synthetic component and can release toxic substances from heating.

Covering TP with carpet is acceptable. It is good to use laminate for these purposes, but when choosing it, you need to pay attention to the marking. Many grades of material have recently begun to indicate the permissible heating temperature.

The most suitable flooring in this case is ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone. This is due to the fact that these types of material have a high degree of thermal conductivity and thermal inertia, for these indicators they are many times superior to all other types of flooring.

Before figuring out how to lay tiles on a warm floor, you should find out which of the above is preferable for a home.

Choosing tiles for a warm floor

When choosing a flooring for a living space between ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and stone, it is worth analyzing them in different aspects. From the point of view of thermal conductivity, stone wins slightly, in second place is porcelain stoneware and tiles are slightly behind, since this characteristic depends on the porosity of the material - the higher the porosity, the lower the thermal conductivity. But the difference in performance is small.

Wear resistance in our case is not significant, because even the smallest indicator possessed by ceramics is sufficient for non-commercial premises. And if you compare the price, then ceramic tiles definitely wins.

In any case, it is up to the customer to decide on the basis of financial capabilities.

Laying tiles on different types of electric underfloor heating

Depending on the type of flooring, there are some differences in the technology of tiling. If we take into account all possible nuances, then laying tiles on a warm floor with your own hands will be within the power of every person, and not just a tiler.

Infrared floor tiles

On a warm electric floor, mounted using infrared film, tiles can be laid in two ways:

  • using gypsum fiber (GVL) or glass magnesia (LSU) sheet;
  • with a concrete screed device.

In the first option, a hydro-barrier should be put on the heating film, then a sheet of GVL or LSU. And on top of the sheets, tiles are already being laid. These materials are good because they have a perfectly flat surface, so the tile lays down without flaws.

It is worth noting that this method is faster, because before laying the tiles, you do not have to wait for the screed to dry. But there are also disadvantages - an interlayer of sheets will prevent the floors from warming up, the process of heating the tile will be longer.

In the case of pouring a wet screed, the technological process is longer, but such an installation will be somewhat cheaper. For greater strength, the screed should be reinforced. It is important to use not a metal, but a plastic mesh for this. The concrete layer in this case can be small - about 5 mm, you can replace it with liquid tile adhesive. After the screed has dried, the tiles are laid.

Laying tiles on electric mats

This type of underfloor heating is the easiest to install and does not require any special knowledge and skills. In addition, no sand-cement screed is required prior to laying the tiles. The laid mat is covered with a thin layer of tile glue and the tiles are laid.

Cable floor

This type of underfloor heating is least often used in apartment buildings. The reason for this is the need to lay a fairly thick cement-sand layer (4-5 cm) under the tiles. As a result, the whole structure “steals” about 8 cm of the room height.

Water floor

A water floor is more often used in private houses, since it is necessary to deepen the floors for its installation. This is due to the fact that the screed with this option requires at least 8 cm, plus the pipes themselves in the underfloor heating system add heights. Thus, the floor can be raised by more than 10 cm. But this type of TP is the cheapest to operate, therefore it is quite popular.

The process of laying tiles on a warm water floor is the same as when laying them on ordinary floors. The only difference is that the glue must be applied both to the base and to the back of the tile.

As you can see from the information presented in the article, laying tiles on a warm floor is no more difficult than on a regular one. The main thing is to follow some simple rules:

  1. When laying any type of tile on a warm floor, you should use tile adhesive specially designed for this type of work;
  2. For tile joints, it is better to use a two-component epoxy grout;
  3. If a sand-cement screed was poured under the laying of the tile, then you should wait for it to dry completely and only then start working with the floor covering.

izplitki.com

Installation of underfloor heating is possible in rooms with high ceilings. Most often they are mounted in the bathroom, but a warm floor under the tiles can be installed over the entire area of ​​the apartment.

There are several heating methods that you need to choose individually, depending on the height of the ceilings, the state of the wiring and the water pressure in the apartment or country house. The most popular are heating mats, which are easy to install.

In this article, we examined the basic rules for laying infrared and cable underfloor heating. They also provided detailed instructions on arranging a heating system for tiles using heating mats. The material is provided with step-by-step photos and video recommendations from specialists for installing underfloor heating.

Before you start choosing a floor heating system, you need to take into account that they have limitations. Despite the fact that heating systems are capable of completely replacing heating in an apartment, this cannot be done according to the norms of Russian legislation.

These limitations are due to a number of reasons:

  1. It is allowed to use in apartments only, and the massive use of such systems in the house leads to an increase in the load on the electrical network.
  2. A massive or partial transition to electric heating leads to an imbalance in the heat supply system in the house.

Since the floor will not be used as the main source of heat in the apartment, you can save on installation costs. The savings lie in laying the heating cable or film only in those places that are free from furniture.

This will reduce the consumption of thermal energy, which will make it more economical in the long term, as well as at the same time, when purchasing building materials and installing

In a private home, the possibilities of using this technology are much wider. Depending on the available energy sources, you can choose an acceptable option between water and electric heating.

If the house is equipped with autonomous sources of electricity, such as or, undoubtedly, it is worth making a choice in favor of electric, i.e. cable or infrared heating systems.

If electricity is supplied over power lines, then using the electric heating option for a private home will be very expensive. In that case, it is better to opt for. It will last about 35 years, after which it will need to be replaced.

Image gallery

Installation of mats and installation of the control system

Installation of electric mats is easier and faster than cable installation. It is enough to place them on the heating area, which was determined when drawing up the scheme.

The cable will have to be laid on the mounting tape, which is metal fasteners that are fixed in the floor screed. When laying the cable, it is necessary to make turns of the same width

This will ensure an even level of heating of the floor surface. It is not recommended to break the cable during installation.

After laying the cable, you need to install. It performs an important function - maintaining the desired temperature of the floor covering.

This allows you to reduce energy consumption, since the heating will periodically turn off when the set temperature is reached. If the temperature sensor detects a decrease in the mode set by the user, the heating will automatically turn on.

To install the control unit in the wall, you need to drill a hole of the required diameter. There must be a power source near the unit installation site. It could be an outlet

The hole should be located more than 30 cm from the floor surface. A vertical channel is drilled down from the hole, where the corrugation for the temperature sensor will be installed.

The opposite end of the corrugation should be equally spaced between the turns of the heating cable. If this rule is not followed, then the sensor readings will be overestimated.

When connecting the heating cable to the control unit, the instructions from the equipment manufacturer must be followed. Before connecting, you need to check the resistance of the wires with a special device.

Rules for laying infrared underfloor heating

Despite the structural differences, it can be installed just like electric mats. But there is a difference between them. When connecting a film heater, not a serial, but a parallel connection is used.

From a constructive point of view, this is a more reliable way, since if a separate module fails, the rest will continue to function.

Such a floor has the advantage of reducing energy consumption due to its reduced consumption compared to electric mats. The film is sold in rolls and purchased in the amount required for the heating area. The film can be cut, but only in those places where it is allowed by the manufacturer

The film must be laid with a slight overlap, strictly following the markings. The modules are fastened together with molar tape. This is a temporary method of fastening, since after filling with a self-leveling floor, the need for fastening will disappear.

We considered the features of the film type of heating in more detail in.

Electric underfloor heating installation guide

The quality of the coating depends on the condition of the base on which it is to be laid. The work should start with dismantling the old coating. Everything must be dismantled, including the old screed.

A bump stop is required for work. It is also necessary to think in advance how to transport and where to export old concrete. Dumping construction waste into garbage bins is prohibited

After removing the old coating, it is necessary to remove all fine debris and dust. After that, you need to inspect the floor area and, if cracks are present, they must be repaired. When the floor surface is prepared, you can proceed with waterproofing and insulation.

Stage # 1 - installation of insulation under the electric floor

Insulation must be laid on the prepared base. Cork sheets are preferred. They have sufficient density and do not sag under the weight of the screed, as happens with expanded polystyrene.

The use of low density insulation will lead to the need to dismantle the finished floor due to the material's cushioning.

Cheap expanded polystyrene makes the screed under the tiles crack. This inevitably leads to delamination and deterioration of the tile. First, small cracks appear, and then the tile peels off

The insulation is fixed to the surface by gluing it onto the bitumen mastic. Due to the use of this material, not only the fixation of cork sheets is achieved, but also waterproofing.

The service life of warm floors also depends on the quality of gluing. After waiting 5-6 hours, you can proceed to filling the screed. The thickness of the screed must be at least 3 cm.

When using a self-leveling floor, there is no need for leveling by the rule, as is the case with self-mixed cement mortars. After work, you need to leave the surface until completely dry, for about 3-4 days.

Stage # 2 - laying heating mats

After the filling solution has hardened, you can start installing the warm floor under the tiles. First, you need to outline with chalk the places where the mats will not be installed. This will help you navigate and not overspend the material.

Image gallery

Most often, electronics fail, which is easy to replace and continue to use underfloor heating. In the event of a breakdown of the control unit, it will be difficult to get a new one if the manufacturer stops producing heating systems. Temperature sensors are easier to match as they are interchangeable in many models.

Have you equipped your home with underfloor heating under the tiles? What heating system did you use? How satisfied are you with the result and have you encountered any type of breakdown? Share your experience in installing and operating a warm floor - leave your comments under this article.



Warm electric floors are suitable for any type of flooring. The device and principle of operation of the heating cable and mats allows you to use a heating system of this type for laminate, parquet and linoleum.

You can also install warm electric floors under tiles, install an anti-icing system for paving stones and apply under other types of flooring.

Is it possible to lay the heating cable under the tiles

For cold rooms, finished with tiles, electric floors are better. Heating cable or mats provide fast and uniform heating of the surface, have good heat transfer characteristics, and are completely safe during operation.

The installation of an electric cable underfloor heating under the tiles is the best option for heating: a bathroom, hallway, baths and saunas, balconies and loggias, sidewalk paths, etc.

The heating system has several main advantages over water heating and:

  1. Electric floor thickness... The heating cable must be installed in a screed. According to the manufacturer's manual, the minimum floor thickness can be in the range of 3-5 cm. The mats are laid directly under the tiles, therefore they reduce the height of the ceilings by only 0.5 cm.
  2. Ease of installation... The technology of laying warm electric floors under ceramic tiles is much simpler than that of water or infrared heating. It is easy to do self-installation of the heating system, while you need a minimum set of construction tools.
    The easiest way is to put a self-regulating cable under the tile, when you connect it, you don't even need to use a thermostat. Heating mats are also easy to install.
  3. Possibility of installation in rooms with complex layouts... The use of a two-core cable allows you to make a heating system taking into account the future placement of furniture, walls, insulating even small areas of the room that have an uneven shape.

Ceramic and any other tile has good heat transfer characteristics. As a result, the optimal temperature in the room is easily achieved, overheating of the cable is excluded, which leads to a significant increase in the service life.

Varieties of cable floor systems

The technology of laying an electric underfloor heating under the tiles depends on the type of cable chosen. All types of wire are usually classified as follows:
  • Resistor - the cable can have one or two conductors. It has a simple device, it works exclusively for heating. The heating intensity is controlled by a thermostat.
  • Self-adjusting- the cable has two cores, between which there is a matrix that releases heat. The heating intensity depends on the room temperature. No thermostat required for operation.
    The cable independently regulates the heating temperature, providing the most comfortable conditions for each part of the room. The only drawback of self-leveling floors is their high cost and slightly increased energy consumption when used in large rooms.
  • Electric cable mats- the optimal solution for rooms with low flows and the impossibility of carrying out wet work on the arrangement of the screed. After installation of heating mats, the height of the ceilings is reduced exactly by the layer of tile adhesive and the thickness of the floor covering, which is no more than 2 cm.
    The main advantage of heating mats is ease of installation. Do-it-yourself styling is allowed. For installation, it is required to properly lay the mats and connect them to the nearest power source.

When choosing a floor heating system, it is important to consider who will install the electrical cable. If you plan to invite professional builders, it is better to purchase a single-core or two-core heating cable. In other cases, mats should be preferred.

How to properly lay a cable floor system

It is possible to start laying the cable floor only after drawing up a detailed laying scheme, as well as a sequential work plan.


Laying the tiles on an electric underfloor heating is carried out only after the screed is completely dry. The exception is heating mats. Tiles can be mounted on top of the mats immediately.

How to install tiles on a cable

There are several basic rules for laying tiles, the adherence to which significantly affects the performance and operation of warm floors:


The choice of cable depends on the conditions in which you plan to use it. For paving slabs, it is best to choose a single-core wire with a reliable degree of internal and external insulation.

Why is cable floor heating better under tiles?

The principle of operation of electric cable floors optimally meets the requirements for the efficient operation of ceramic and any other tiles:

Ceramic tiles are one of the few types of flooring that, when heated, does not emit harmful toxic substances. Therefore, the combination of electric floors and tiles is advisable and fully justified.

We choose wallpaper in a cute flower or trendy snow-white finish, shabby or, on the contrary, ultramodern furniture, napkins that match curtains and cushions on chairs - in a word, we create a special little world with a unique style in our home. But there are things that cannot be avoided in our age of progress and which, using this, impudently spoil the entire idyll we carefully create. These include, for example, electronics and household appliances. However, manufacturers began to produce equipment in a large assortment, suitable for different styles, and in built-in versions. Another enemy is the wires running from this very technique along the walls and floor. For those to whom they unbearably irritate the eyes, we offer several ideas for disguising them.

We all know that most often the wires are hidden under the skirting board, and the sockets are trying to match the color of the finish and they are bought with special caps that ensure safety for children and a more handsome look. But what if, for example, a new Internet operator came to you and extended new wires? Or did you decide to move the TV to a corner of the room where there is no outlet? Not to redo all the repairs because of this? You can always be creative and block the wires, for example, with a decorative fence. And block an outlet or a new Internet router with some self-made barrier that turns an unseemly element into an art object. The example below is an easy-to-create geometric iceberg.


So that the wires lie behind such fences without bristling, we will be helped by another well-known way to make the appearance of wires more accurate - cable clamps.


Such clamps can be made by yourself from ordinary Velcro. Velcro clamps on sale are also quite easy to find, their significant advantage is reusability.


You can also make homemade fasteners for wires from stationery clips. Clips as clamps can also ensure their fixation to the wall. From the same clothespins, you can make a separator for the inputs of the chargers.


With all the obviousness of the idea of ​​using wire clamps, not all of us know how useful they can be in everyday life. Here's an example of how the look of your desktop changes with these simple things.


Now on sale you can find very nice options for clamps, for example, in the form of leaves.

On the same plant theme, there are also camouflage covers for wires.


You can also play with the look of wires stretching around the room with the help of improvised means, stickers and your own drawings.


If the insulators on your wires are even in the slightest degree similar to aesthetic ones, you can not mask them at all, but, on the contrary, make them an object of design art and everyone's attention. Here are some examples for inspiration. This idea is especially suitable for loft-style interiors.






Wires hanging from the desk, if your desk is against a wall, can simply be draped over with a curtain.


Or to reason with the help of special hanging hammocks.


Such a device can be ordered at, from where another gadget for pacifying entangled wires.


You can find similar dividers for wires and charging inputs on sale in the form of boxes.


However, it is not at all difficult to make such a divider yourself, for example, from a shoe box. Your new desktop device will look especially beautiful if you wrap the box with beautiful paper or cloth.