Properly organized water supply for a bath implies an uninterrupted supply of water under constant pressure. It is with the supply of water that there are great difficulties. If heating water is not difficult - you just need to turn on the boiler or another heating option, then everything is not always clear with the influx of water. Let's consider options for organizing water supply from different sources: wells, boreholes. Let's figure out how to build a water supply system in a bathhouse with your own hands and how to connect a steam room to a dressing room.
Bath water supply options
The old ancient methods, when water was carried from a lake or well and poured into a barrel, from which it was then taken, are long gone. Now you can enjoy the comfort of adjusting the water supply with just one hand movement. But for everything to be exactly like this, you should approach the issue of water supply for the bathhouse with great responsibility.
First of all, the question of which water source will be used is decided. The choice occurs between three options: central water supply, well or borehole. In fact, most likely there will be no choice, but only one option available. Each method of obtaining water has its pros and cons. If it is possible to connect to a centralized water supply, questions should not arise; technically everything is clear here. Let's talk about autonomous water supply, how to get water from a well or borehole with minimal effort and maximum results. To obtain a source for water intake in a bathhouse, you must have:
- well or well;
- pump equipment;
- pipeline with wiring;
- boiler;
- crane system.
If the water source on the site is located very deep, you will have to hire specialists with equipment to drill an artesian well. And although you will have to pay a certain amount for this, the result will meet all expectations: in a couple of days you will have a source with high-quality and clean water. But if the waters pass very close, you can simply plug the pipe, install a manual pump, two valves, and you can use the water. The so-called Abyssinian well is applicable only for use in the warm season; the method is not suitable for winter.
Summer water supply
Provided that the bathhouse is used only in the warm season, the installation of the water supply will be carried out according to a simplified scheme. The pipes are laid at a depth of eighty centimeters to one and a half meters. The main thing that should not be forgotten is the angle of inclination of the system towards the well. This is necessary to ensure that water does not remain in the pipes over the winter, since freezing can damage the integrity of the pipes. To organize a water supply, you need to stock up on the necessary materials, equipment and tools. In addition to pipes, a pump and fittings, you need to purchase a heater for washing in a bathhouse, the recommended volume is about eighty liters. You should also think about filters.
The summer method of water supply is easier to carry out, in addition to providing water for the bathhouse: steam room and shower, it is necessary to water the plants, fill the shower and provide for various needs. To connect water to the bathhouse if the summer water supply has already been laid, you can use the existing system running through the site. This will allow for a minimum of additional work and a minimum of costs.
Advantages and disadvantages of summer water supply
To set up a summer mobile water supply, it is necessary to purchase pipes for external installation of the system. This is convenient, but during cold weather the system should be dismantled. But folk craftsmen have adapted, when using rigid metal pipes, to leave them in place for the winter, having previously insulated them.
The simplest and most primitive water supply scheme for a bath using silicone hoses or remnants of metal-plastic pipes connected in series to each other. This option may be temporary during the installation of a stationary option. If a hose is used, experts advise using a product with reinforced threads. The entire system is built on a slope, which allows water to be drained as needed. And although experts have differing opinions regarding the need for a slope, it is better to do what is best. The weather can change sharply, you may not have time to dismantle the system, but with a tilt you can drain the water and not worry about the integrity of the entire structure, and be free to calmly assemble the parts until the next season.
If the water comes from a well, it is necessary to equip the system so that the water drains there. To do this, install taps and a switch. All these measures will help protect the system from destruction and failure.
Winter water supply for baths
This water supply option must be approached very responsibly. The usual option with deep laying of pipes in the ground does not quite work, since the bathhouse is a non-residential premises and is used only occasionally. This means that the slightest remaining water will freeze and disable the system, because the room temperature will drop to the street temperature.
To completely eliminate breakdowns, there should be no water in the system. To do this, you can use a vibration pump from a water source with a check valve. It works like this: after the pump is turned off, the water flows out of the pipes and does not linger anywhere. Installation of cranes or other additional equipment is not necessary. With this option, there will be no problems with the water supply of the bathhouse.
You can also use the option of adding heating cables to the pipes. The option is expensive and not always reliable for the reason that an emergency shutdown of the lights will reduce all efforts to zero. With this option, it is necessary to install uninterruptible power supplies, which also costs money.
Many masters use various options and schemes to ensure that water flows without problems, but not everyone achieves the result. Therefore, if a bathhouse is used in winter, it must be heated as a dwelling all winter or everything must be drained down to a small drop, which is also not entirely realistic. Therefore, in winter you can refuse to use the bathhouse completely.
Advantages and disadvantages of winter water supply
The ability to use a bathhouse in winter is a huge advantage, but as already mentioned, arranging such an opportunity requires time and material costs. Schematically, the algorithm for constructing water supply can be represented as follows:
- if there is no water source on the site yet, you should carefully consider the most optimal place and drill a well or dig a well;
- the next stage is the installation of an external water supply system: trenches are dug and a pipe system is installed, it is advisable to additionally insulate them, for this expanded clay is poured into the trenches or mineral wool is laid, the depth of the pipes is below the freezing level of the soil;
- after this, pumping equipment, filters, and a water tank are installed;
- the next stage is the installation of a pipe system inside the bathhouse, connecting vertical and horizontal pipes;
- The last step will be connecting the plumbing equipment and checking the functioning of the system.
For the smooth operation of the pump, on which the flow of water depends, the following main points should be taken into account:
- power;
- safety;
- well size;
- height of the water column.
A special water heating device will heat the water. They are divided into capacitive and flow-through. The capacitive device allows you to save money and get hot water. After heating the water, the optimal temperature will be maintained. Given the high energy consumption, it is necessary to make reliable wiring in the bathhouse. In severe frosts, to avoid pipes from freezing, the water must be drained. The disadvantages of this option include the need for additional costs and difficulty in operation. But if all the requirements for winter water supply are met, then you can enjoy the delights of the steam room at any time of the year and in any weather.
Pumps and pipes for water supply
We won’t talk about centralized water supply; everything is simpler and quite clear there. As for autonomous water supply systems, regardless of the water source option: a well or a well, it is necessary to install a pump for water supply. This is a very important question; you need to choose the equipment correctly.
It is necessary to start choosing equipment not with the brand or power, but with the type of pump. You need to decide which motor to take: deep-sea submersible or surface. It is very important to submit the water to a laboratory for chemical testing: drinking water or industrial water, whether there are impurities and what they are, to find out the chemical composition of the water. This is necessary in order to understand the peculiarities of filter devices.
Calculating the debit of the water source and the volume of water consumption will allow you to choose the right pump. Surface pumps can be:
- vortex - with the ability to increase pressure, for shallow sources of water;
- centrifugal - for wells and not very deep wells and natural sources of water.
Submersible pumps come in several types; they are installed at sufficiently deep sources:
- submersible motor for wells;
- submersible motor for wells.
A submersible pump better satisfies the needs for water, volume and pressure of the water column.
Having considered pumps by submersion type, let's focus on the design types:
- piston;
- centrifugal;
- turbine;
- rotary;
- vibration.
If there is an option to use either submersible or surface, compare their capabilities and characteristics to decide. The main thing that can be said about the surface motor:
- easy to maintain and operate;
- requires the installation of a suction and discharge pipeline;
- and although the stated suction depth is ten meters, in practice it is no more than seven;
- at the first start, as well as after downtime, it is necessary to fill with water;
- long work without a break can result in overheating and breakdown of the pump;
- works effectively only for summer water supply;
- Quite noisy in operation.
A deep-sea or submersible pump is characterized as follows:
- it is necessary to systematically lift for maintenance and repair;
- aimed at pumping;
- operates from a depth of ten meters;
- does not overheat, since a layer of water reliably protects the device;
- does not require preservation;
- works silently.
As for pipes, metal-plastic pipes are considered the most optimal.
Where can I get water from?
The source of water supply is the basis of the entire water supply system. Aquifers can be divided into the following main categories:
- the upper water layer is at a depth of about four meters, the maximum filling is achieved after precipitation or in the spring, when the snow melts, the quality of the water is industrial, not suitable for drinking and cooking;
- underground water - the layer is constantly filled with water, the depth of water passage is ten to twenty meters;
- artesian water - located between layers, often under pressure, clean water located at a depth of about fifty meters.
You can take water to supply a bathhouse from a regular well, an Abyssinian well, an artesian well, or a filter well.
The well is an economical option with a simple design. The depth of the wells reaches twenty meters, depending on the occurrence of layers of water. The advantages of this option include:
- ease of use;
- low cost of construction;
- durability of service;
- constant water supply.
The disadvantages of the well are as follows:
- high probability of entry of foreign objects and representatives of the animal world;
- small volume of water;
- danger of pollution from the upper water layer;
- needs to be cleaned and treated with disinfectants;
- there is a possibility of silting.
The Abyssinian well is a source with a depth of four to fifteen meters. The advantages of this option include the following:
- this structure can be erected in the basement;
- speed in construction;
- easily restored;
- sometimes there is no need to install a filter;
- the structure is sealed, protected from the ingress of foreign objects;
- the service life reaches up to thirty years;
- high performance.
The disadvantages of the structure are as follows:
- It is often difficult to select a pump;
- high risk of siltation;
- It is not possible to make a structure of this kind on every soil;
- when connecting several points of water consumption at the same time, the pressure decreases.
A filter well, as a rule, reaches a depth of no more than twenty-five meters. Drilling such a well is economically less expensive than an artesian one, but it will function for no more than two decades. The strengths of this design include:
- good water composition;
- ease of construction;
- construction speed.
The disadvantages of a filter well are the following:
- it is necessary to systematically pump water;
- low water yield in winter.
An artesian well is very deep, it can reach fifty meters. Drilling will require large expenses, as special equipment is needed. But the quality of water and the durability of the structure will cover all costs. The advantages of the well include the following nuances:
- constant water level;
- protected from foreign objects and organisms;
- can cover several houses;
- long service life;
- does not silt when not in use.
But it should also be said about the disadvantages:
- permits are required for drilling;
- water quality may be poor as a result of oversaturation with certain elements;
- high cost.
If you have a choice, decide which source of water you need.
How to make a sauna water supply with your own hands step by step instructions
To summarize all of the above, we can highlight the main stages of development:
- development of a scheme, planning and purchase of equipment and material;
- marking the terrain, digging trenches for pipes;
- measuring the depth of the water source;
- immersion of the pump and intake pipe;
- pipe connection;
- insulation of the pumping station;
- installation of pipes in the bathhouse;
- system connection.
You can make plumbing in a bathhouse yourself, the main thing is to take into account all the tips and recommendations of experienced craftsmen. If you still have questions about how to do everything correctly yourself, watch the video instructions for installing water supply in a bathhouse.
In the 21st century, carrying water from a well to a bathhouse in buckets is irrelevant. Installing containers under it can take up a lot of space, which is unacceptable for small bathhouses. The water supply to the bath should be as automated as possible, then the process of washing and visiting the steam room will not take a lot of time.
Water in the bathhouse is an additional convenience that all owners of such facilities strive to achieve. Its supply can be carried out in a number of ways. The simplest of them is connecting to an existing water supply network.
The water supply in the bathhouse, fed from the central water supply system, is easy to install. All you need is to find out the technical requirements for the connection from the water supply company and make a connection in the nearest well.
Such water supply in a bathhouse is inaccessible to many, especially if the dacha or country house is located in a settlement where there has never been a central water supply and, most likely, will not exist due to the lack of profitability of installing such a system.
In such a situation, you have to design and create a water supply for the bathhouse with your own hands.
The supply of water to the bathhouse can be carried out in different ways. It can be pumped from a well or well, but it is worth remembering that you will have to tinker a little with the winter water supply to the bathhouse.
Pumping water for a bath from a well
Water supply for a bathhouse from a well is the simplest and most affordable option. The daily need for water guarantees its availability in every suburban area. The water supply scheme for a bathhouse from a well is as follows:
- A submersible pump is lowered into the shaft, to which a pipeline or an ordinary garden hose is connected. Through it, water is pumped into the bathhouse.
- Instead of a submersible pump, a pump can be used, which is located next to the well or in the technical underground of the bathhouse. This method is permissible only in the case of a slight difference in height.
- The pipeline can be laid on the ground or in a trench. If there is a need for water in the bathhouse in winter, then the pipeline must be placed below the soil freezing level. All components of the water supply system, which for one reason or another are not located in the ground, must be insulated.
When making a water supply system for a bathhouse with your own hands, you need to take into account that it must have a slope towards the well. Thanks to this, the water remaining in the pipes will flow back on its own, which will eliminate the possibility of it freezing.
Supplying water to the bathhouse from a well
The water supply system for a bathhouse from a well is no fundamentally different from the water supply system described above. The only difference is that the well is much more difficult to develop, maintain and operate.
The task of installing a water supply system in a bathhouse will be greatly simplified if the site already has connections to a water source, for example, for pumping it into the house. In such a situation, you will have to join the existing pipeline.
It would not be superfluous to make an additional starting system for the pump so that it can be turned on from the bathhouse.
Pumping station
How to bring water to the bathhouse? Where is it better to take water from: a well or a borehole? For the most part, the last question is unimportant. Both options are not completely comfortable. An ideal solution to the existing problem would be to install a full-fledged pumping station.
This is a labor-intensive process that will take a lot of effort and time, but there will always be water in the bathhouse, house and other buildings located on the plot. The operating principle of the pumping station is simple:
- Water is pumped from a well or well into a special container, the volume of which is calculated based on individual needs. As a rule, a tank with a capacity of 300–500 liters is sufficient.
- Next, the water flows to the place where the tap was opened. The redistribution of water is the responsibility of wiring, the installation of which is carried out at the discretion of the owner of the house.
- When the water level in the tank drops to a critical level, the pump is activated, replenishing the loss.
The water tank and pump must be installed in a room where the temperature does not drop to sub-zero values. The tank must be installed so that its lower part is higher than any of the taps in the system. The ideal solution could be the attic of a house or bathhouse.
The pump can be installed under the floor or in any other place. If possible, it is better to make a separate room for the pump so that the noise it makes during operation does not get on your nerves.
Differences between winter and summer water supply
In order for there to be enough water in the bathhouse and the plumbing to work properly, its installation must be carried out taking into account climatic conditions. If the bathhouse is located on a summer cottage and is used exclusively in the summer, then it is enough to take an ordinary pump and hose. To prevent the latter from being damaged during operation, it can be slightly buried - to a depth of 30–50 centimeters.
Before storing the bathhouse for the winter, the pump must be removed, and the hose can be left in the ground. According to the rules for installing a water supply system, the intake point must be lower than the place to which the water is pumped. All the liquid will flow down from the hose, and there will be nothing to freeze in it.
Water supply to a bathhouse in winter is a more complex process. The main conditions for installing a water supply system are the placement of pipes at a sufficient depth and their insulation, provided they lie close to the surface.
For a bathhouse that is not used only for its intended purpose and is heated in winter, the installation of water supply is significantly simplified. Otherwise, it is necessary to consider systems for draining water from the heat exchange system and other containers.
Water supply system layout
Running water into the bathhouse is half the battle. It is equally important to do the wiring correctly. For a bathhouse that is not heated on a permanent basis, the installation of the pipeline should begin with the installation of a drain valve. It must be placed in close proximity to the sewerage system or completely removed beyond the perimeter of the building. The drain valve should be located at the lowest point of the entire system.
After the tap, the installation of the water supply system for the bath is carried out in any order. Branches from a common pipe can go in any direction. It all depends on the number and types of plumbing installed in the bathhouse. The consumer connection diagrams are arbitrary. They can be either parallel or sequential.
Hot water supply
Particular attention should be paid to heating the water. Hot water is always needed in the bathhouse.
There are many ways to heat water in a bathhouse - from primitive ones, which involve installing a container of water in close proximity to a heat source, to economically beneficial ones (installation of a heat exchanger). Popular methods of heating water need to be considered in detail.
The most common way to heat water in a bathhouse is to install a boiler. It has one significant drawback - excessive energy consumption, but its ease of installation is captivating. All you need to do is select a suitable installation location and install the pipes.
It is worth remembering that the presence of a boiler implies a large consumption of water, but if there is a full-fledged pumping station, then this is not a problem.
The boiler is installed in the shower room. This saves pipe consumption. If there is not enough space in the shower room to install a boiler, then it can be moved to the dressing room.
If there is a need to reduce the cost of operating a bathhouse, then you can make a heat exchanger. Cold water will be heated due to thermal energy, which in a normal situation “goes down the pipe.” How to make a heat exchanger? The easiest way to install a heat exchange system is to use a coil that is installed on top of the chimney pipe.
The disadvantage of the heat exchange system is that the pipes will have to be laid at a fairly large distance: from the stove to the shower room and back, since water must circulate in the system.
It should be clarified that hot water taps should be located below the source. A heat exchange system in which the water tank is located in the attic is much more practical than a boiler installed indoors. Of course, we are talking about standard water heaters that are not equipped with a distillation device.
Bath heating
The heating system operates on the principle of a heat exchanger. If the bathhouse is small in size and includes several rooms (steam room, dressing room and shower room), then a heat exchange system will be enough to heat it. If the bathhouse consists of two floors, on which there are living rooms, rest rooms, etc., then you will have to install full-fledged water heating.
How to make heating in a bathhouse? It's simple:
- First you need to install the boiler. It is best to do this in a steam room, as you can attach a heater to it.
- A pipe must be removed from the boiler. Its diameter is 0.75 inches. It must pass through all rooms and return to the heating device.
- The heating system must be equipped with a drain valve, which is installed at the lowest point. The tap is needed so that the boiler, or rather the water in the system, does not freeze if heating is temporarily suspended. There should be a sewer not far from the tap, into which water can be drained if necessary.
In order for the room to heat up faster, the heating system pipeline must be equipped with a pump, due to which the water circulation is accelerated tens of times. The pump will not allow the water to freeze if the stove for any reason was not lit in a timely manner.
What should you consider when installing water supply in a bathhouse?
There are a number of rules that should be followed when installing a water supply system:
- Firstly, water must be supplied from a reliable source that can provide a sufficient amount of life-giving moisture.
- Secondly, reliable equipment must be used to supply water. If it fails at an unexpected moment, the heat exchanger may fail. If the loss of water in the system is not compensated in a timely manner, the pipes may burst.
- Thirdly, you need to carefully calculate all pipeline parameters. There should be no extra pieces that clutter up the space and complicate the operation of systems, such as a heat exchanger.
There are a lot of benefits from a properly installed water supply system, so you shouldn’t neglect the possibility of installing it. All work can be done independently, without involving specialists. The main thing is to make the calculations correctly and be careful when performing installation work.
Don't skimp on materials. The better quality they are, the longer the water supply, heat exchange and heating systems will last. For example, it is better to use copper pipes.
Using the information given above, you can make the bathhouse as comfortable as possible. Having arranged a water supply, you will not have to go to the well with a rocker. Water in a bathhouse is comfort, which is not so difficult to create.
The article discusses the option of organizing hot and cold water supply for a bathhouse at a summer cottage. First, let's formulate the basic requirements for the system. Due to the fact that residents spend weekends on the site not only in summer, but also in winter, the bathhouse should be all-season. And this imposes the following requirements on the organization of water supply.
- Protecting water from freezing in winter, at least during weekends;
- Simple pouring of water into the internal water supply system and the same simple draining of water from the system.
Due to the permanent residence of the female half of the family during the summer-autumn period:
- there must always be hot water in the bathhouse for washing and washing;
- using a water heater should be simple and safe.
The steam room should operate in two modes:
- sauna (dry steam);
- “Russian” steam room (wet steam).
In the bathhouse, it is desirable to have a “cool” relaxation room for intimate conversation over a glass of “tea” between visits to the steam room.
To ensure cleanliness in the bathhouse and for ease of maintenance of the heater, the firebox should be located on the dressing room side.
Note: all bathhouse equipment must be fire and electrical safe.
As a result, a scheme for organizing the water supply of the bathhouse was developed, shown in the figure.
A characteristic feature of the water supply scheme is the absence of a pressure tank, usually installed in the attic of the bathhouse. A pumping station is used to provide water pressure. This water supply scheme guarantees water pressure in the system from 1.5 to 3 atm. (no worse, and sometimes even better than in the city), control of filling the tank with water and, most importantly, simplicity in ensuring the conditions for protecting the system from freezing when using the bathhouse on weekends in winter. It must be said that at the first stage the scheme was somewhat simpler, but during the implementation process it began to acquire additional elements that improved its consumer qualities and increased its maintainability.
The main elements of the system are: a water tank 1, a pumping station 2 and an electric water heater 3. Water is poured into the tank 1 through a pipeline 4 leading outside.
The filling level of the tank is controlled using a transparent PVC tube 5, connected through a tee 6 to the drain line 7 (to valve 8).
To prevent water from overflowing from tank 1 after it is filled, an emergency drain 9 with a diameter larger than the water inlet is installed in the upper part of the tank.
The emergency drain 9 is connected to the drain line 7 and led out into the street.
Water from the tank is sucked in by pumping station 2 through a coarse filter 10 and a check valve 11.
Between tank 1 and filter 10 there is a shut-off valve 12, which allows you to cut off water from the tank for repair of the pumping station and the entire pressure line.
After the pumping station, cold water flows through pipeline 13 into electric heater 3 and shower mixer 14.
After heating, hot water also flows into the shower mixer 14. Valves 15 and 16 were installed during the system debugging process to facilitate the elimination of leaks in the threaded connections of the shower and water heater.
These valves allow the amateur plumber to achieve tightness of all connections without draining the entire system.
Valves 17 and 18 are used to drain water from the water heater and the pipelines supplying water to it.
These valves allow you to use hot water when washing, including with an automatic washing machine.
Particular attention is paid to node A (see diagram), which ensures, if necessary, guaranteed drainage of water from the water heater. The fact is that all water heaters are equipped with check valves that prevent the release of hot water into the “cold” pipeline, and the hot water is drawn in at the top of the water heater. Thus, hot water becomes “locked” in the water heater tank. In the proposed design, water is supplied to the water heater through a bypass formed by: tee 19, drive with lock nut 20, American angle 21, coupling 22, American angle 23, check valve 24 (from the water heater kit), tee 25. To drain water From the water heater there is valve 26, which is closed in the operating position. Photo 1 shows the design of node A in working condition (valve 26 is closed).
A polyethylene container for drinking water with a volume of 500 liters was used as a tank (photo 2). As experience in operating the system in the hot summer has shown, this volume is sufficient for daily use for a week by a family of 3 people. Tanks of this type are currently sold in all decent markets and are equipped with inlet and outlet pipes. It should be borne in mind that round tanks of this type are approximately 1.5 times cheaper than rectangular ones, but they take up more space and, as a rule, do not fit through a standard doorway.
A domestic pump with automation was used as a pumping station; the volume of the membrane tank is 25 liters (photo 3). The purchased station is additionally equipped with a “dry running” sensor, the so-called “hydrostop”. This sensor turns off the pump motor if there is no water in the pressure pipeline and thus protects the station from an accident.
In our company Agrovodkom you can purchase various models of such stations, both domestic and imported. These are, for example, produced by the Russian company "Dzhileks" and the company ESPA.
To facilitate the operation of the pumping station, a tank with a water supply is installed on top (see photo 2). Thus, the water in the pump is under slight excess pressure, which reduces the load on the pump electric motor and serves as an additional “passive” protection of the station from “dry” running. A water heater with a volume of 50 liters is used to heat the water (photo 4).
It is installed under the ceiling, in the dressing room, on the wall bordering the shower stall. The hot pipeline is very short, which ultimately saves energy and hot water, and access to the heater is simple and convenient. Note: metal-plastic pipes were used as pipelines. An amazingly convenient thing, easy to install, repair and operate.
To install a water pipe yourself, you need desire, a hacksaw and wrenches. All main parts of the system (tank, pumping station, electric heater, shower) are connected to the main line with flexible connections, this not only makes installation easier, but also makes it easier to maintain the tank, which must be washed periodically, the water heater, which requires annual cleaning, and the pumping station, which also need to be checked periodically. Photo 5 shows the connection of a flexible line and a metal-plastic pipe fixed to the wall using a special support.
At the end of the article, there are some tips for those who decide to implement a similar system at home.
Develop the most detailed project possible, which will ultimately save money and time.
Important! Buy all fittings (couplings, valves, adapters from metal-plastic to flexible hoses, etc.) in one store, preferably located close to you.
Be sure to keep your receipts. Because you will definitely make a mistake in your calculations, and you will have to go to the store several times, change something, buy something more, return something.
To protect the pipeline from freezing and rupture in winter, when installing metal-plastic pipes, it is necessary to ensure a constant slope towards drainage of water within the range of 0.02-0.05.
A bathhouse is a room with high humidity, so you need to be very careful about the electrical wiring.
All electrical equipment used must be grounded and connected to the electrical network through separate circuit breakers.
Proper water supply for a bathhouse is a flow of clean water under constant pressure. Moreover, the pressure is comfortable, with calculated water heating. But, if everything is clear with the latter - there are boilers for this, or in extreme cases you can use a furnace heat exchanger - then with the first everything is a little more complicated. Because the same water pressure in the bathhouse is created by a pumping station - and it is not easy to equip it, as well as to ensure a constant flow of high-quality water. But everything is possible - just follow our instructions!
How to equip a good water source?
An important question is where to get water for the bath. Of course, the ideal source for it is a limestone well, called an artesian well. But the price that workers charge for drilling it discourages many bathhouse attendants from even going into the steamy water at all.
There are also sand wells - but they are often too sandy and require serious filters. This point is also alarming - if the territory itself is radon-bearing, which cannot be checked by eye, then the water from it will contain a large amount of radioactive soil gas radon. That is why the best option is an ordinary well, for which you can find water using a frame.
Once water is found, test drilling can be done and a well can be dug. It is only important to purchase the “correct” rings - with a tongue-and-groove system that are attached to each other. This will prevent possible horizontal movement of the rings. It would be good if the rings were additionally tied together with special metal staples. And so that the upstream veins cannot get inside, when laying between the rings, it is advisable to make a seam from a special rubber tape such as RubberElast. In extreme cases, a cable - foam, jute or linen - is suitable. But you can’t lubricate it with bitumen - it’s harmful, liquid glass is a waste, and only the quick-hardening mixture Plitonit Aquabarrier is suitable.
At the bottom of such a well you need to make a bottom filter - from crushed stone, stones and geotextiles.
The resulting space around the well should be filled not with earth, but with sand - it will drain water from the walls and thereby reduce frost heaving. It wouldn't hurt to insulate the well - at least with the same extruded foam, which doesn't produce crumbs. And the top of the well must be covered - with a steel or plastic lid - so that leaves do not fall into it and then the entire water supply system of the bathhouse does not become clogged, and there is no need to replace a burnt-out pumping station.
The water itself will be taken from the well by the outlet pipe - it is important to make its entrance completely sealed. But not with bitumen mastic - it will pollute the water and cause a tarnished color to appear on it. Waterproofing needs to be done in multiple layers - with silicone, cement mortar, liquid glass and Kiilto fiber rubber.
Here's how it's done: a layer of silicone is placed on the hole in the ring and plastered with a mixture of waterproof and frost-resistant tile adhesive. When it dries, a layer of fiber rubber is applied - it is usually used for waterproofing showers. Once it dries, apply another, thicker layer. And after that, plastering again with a mixture of tile adhesive and liquid glass. The next day, all this is coated with blue clay and polystyrene foam is laid, followed by loam. And all these manipulations are carried out both from the inside and from the outside.
Where and how to install the pumping station?
But water from the well will be supplied to the bathhouse using a pumping station - for example, from the company Gilex. It is quite noisy, but not expensive. Quieter and more expensive - Grundfos JP and Espa Technoplus. What is the difference between them? The fact is that inexpensive stations, as a rule, do not have any protection against dry running - and therefore for this you will have to add a special sensor at the pipe outlet.
Well, if an absolutely silent option for water supply in a bathhouse is vitally important, it’s a submersible pump directly in the well.
To begin with, it is important to determine the location for the pumping station - during operation it always makes a lot of noise and this noise has nothing to do with the comfortable silence of the bath procedures. Therefore, it is better to install it in a separate boiler room or at least a dedicated part of the dressing room. The main thing is where there is no high humidity - this is dangerous for her.
Secondly, so that the pump does not turn on every three minutes and does not irritate anyone, it is advisable to equip the station with an additional receiver - about 50 liters in volume. This will also help equalize the pressure throughout the system. After all, you need to take into account that in most cases hot water supply is provided in the bathhouse - and there are many subtleties in it.
It is possible to install additional equipment, such as pipe heating cables. It all depends on your needs
What material is better to use for pipes?
As for water pipes, metal-plastic ones are the most convenient - but due to rubber gaskets that dry out on the street, they often fail and are not very suitable for a bathhouse. Much better are polypropylene pipes, which are frost-resistant, do not rust and do not have any intermediate gaskets. But water supply to a bathhouse in winter is no less necessary than in summer.
And it is also better to do the water supply pipes with polypropylene pipes. Moreover, from the pumping station to the filter, tank and collector, pipes must be taken with a cross-section of at least an inch. And the whole system looks like this: in the well, through a tee, a special tap is installed on the pipe to drain the entire system and a check valve with a large mesh filter. In front of the pump itself there is a coarse mesh filter - preferably with a carbon cartridge and a resource designed for 30 tons of water.
That's all! It is not difficult to make a high-quality and reliable water supply for a bathhouse with your own hands - if only you had the desire and a little time. But clean hot water in your favorite steam room will definitely please all household members!
There are quite a large number of ways to build a water supply system in a bathhouse, from an ordinary rubber pipe - a temporary structure laid along a wire stretched between buildings, to a serious self-regulating system with heating and automatic drainage. The water supply scheme for a bathhouse is traditionally selected based on operating conditions, remoteness of the water source and frequency of use of the steam room. The main thing is that in winter the pipes and shut-off valves of the water supply system are not torn apart by the frozen water inside.
Simple winter water supply to the bathhouse
Air laying of temporary water supply in a bathhouse is allowed only if it is insulated and regularly uses the steam room and water. But even in the warm climate of the subtropics of Sochi, frosts occur in winter, so sooner or later, such a water supply system will freeze. Therefore, all ground and air options can only be used in summer, and for a winter dacha, the water supply system will need to be laid in the ground.
Laying pipes in dry soil
The first thing you need to pay attention to before running water into the bathhouse is the level of groundwater. The most ancient and proven method of laying a water supply for a steam room without any unnecessary wisdom and tricks requires the fulfillment of two conditions:
- Maximum dry and dense soil, with a low level of surface water;
- Pipes for water supply to the bathhouse should be made only of polyethylene, no polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene.
A polyethylene water pipe laid to a depth of at least 50 cm is flexible and elastic enough to withstand the pressure of frozen water without damage. The only weak point in the bath water supply remains the metal fittings - taps and pipes, with the help of which the individual branches of the water supply system are traditionally connected.
Advice! To avoid destruction from ice jams, a section of polyethylene water supply laid in an unheated room is not joined with steel pipes and couplings, but soldered end-to-end, in the form of one continuous line.
If, after closing the bathhouse, less than ¼ of the internal volume of water remains in the pipes, then the winter water supply system made of polyethylene can be connected in any available way, but the main line itself is insulated with polystyrene foam.
Winter water pipe with valve
For areas where there are frosts of more than -20 o C in winter, the water supply in a bathhouse without heating can simply be retrofitted with a diffusion drain valve. The process of arranging the valve drain is as follows:
- Under a polyethylene water supply pipe, in a convenient place, perhaps even in a bathhouse, a mini-well is punched in the ground to a freezing depth of plus 50-60 cm. The diameter of the punched hole is slightly larger than the diameter of the water pipe;
- In the area above the mini-well, a U-shaped elbow, also plastic, is soldered into the polyethylene line. At the lower point of the elbow, a fitting is cut into which a plastic drain pipe is placed, with a length equal to the depth of the mini-well;
- A thick geotextile cover is placed on the end of the drain tube. A small amount of sand is poured inside the mini-well so that the end of the drain pipe connected to the water pipe elbow rests slightly on the sand cushion.
Advice! Before making a well for water in the bathhouse, you will need to conduct a small reconnaissance of the depth of the water layers. Otherwise, instead of draining into the ground, you can end up in an underground spring, and then all the work and effort done will be in vain.
It is clear that when working under pressure, part of the water flowing through the plastic water pipe will fall into the ground. But this will be a very small amount, no more than 20-25 liters for a whole day of active use of the bathhouse. After the valve at the inlet is closed, all the moisture remaining in the winter water supply pipe will begin to flow into the elbow. After 20-30 minutes, the water will begin to freeze, expand and squeeze the excess into the ground. There are no negative consequences for the bath water supply.
Material for different parts of the water supply system in the bathhouse
Often, before building a winter water supply system in a bathhouse with your own hands, the problem arises of choosing the appropriate pipe material. The answer to the question is not as obvious as it might seem. For example, polypropylene pipes No. 25 are ideal for distributing water in the shower bath of the wash compartment. Plastic is easy to solder and lay in the most inaccessible places, so most of the plumbing in the bathhouse is made of polypropylene.
For a winter water supply system laid in the ground between the well and the bathhouse building, polypropylene pipes must be seriously insulated and equipped with heating. If water regularly freezes inside a polypropylene container, then after 20-25 cycles of freezing and thawing, cracks will appear in the welding areas, and after a couple of years the bathhouse will be left without running water. It is better to immediately replace them with polyethylene, which has amazing plasticity even at -50 o C.
Inside the bathhouse, plastic can be used without restrictions. With the water supply valve closed and the taps open, the water will in any case flow to the lowest point of the water supply system, which is usually equipped with a liquid discharge line. The exception is the transition from the water supply manifold to the taps and hot water tank inside the steam room. This part of the water line in the bathhouse is made from a half-inch steel pipe.
Piping inside the bathhouse
One of the typical options for laying pipes indoors is shown in the diagram below.
Water enters the building through the floor or wall of the dressing room. A mud filter and a tap for draining water from a storage tank, usually raised into the attic of the building, are also located here. The design of the water supply system provides three independent drainage systems:
- From a storage tank;
- From the cold circuit of the boiler;
- Drain from the hot circuit connected to the furnace heat exchanger.
Despite the apparent complexity, the scheme is quite simple and effective in operation. After shutting down the furnace firebox, excess steam pressure will squeeze water out of both the boiler and the water storage tank. The drain taps located under the subfloor in the bathhouse are left open, which ensures a relatively complete release of liquid from the water supply in a short time.
The most common diagrams for connecting pipes in a bathhouse
In addition to the material and climatic conditions, when laying a winter water supply system, you will need to take into account the method of supplying water to the bathhouse. As a rule, water for the steam room and washing department at the dacha can be supplied in three ways:
- From a centralized water supply system;
- From a well drilled at a distance of 15-20 m from the bathhouse;
- Collect water from a well located a short distance from the bathhouse building.
Connecting a winter water supply for a bathhouse in all cases is somewhat different from the water supply system for a summer house or residential building due to the lack of constant heating of the room. The most difficult connection is considered to be the connection of the winter water supply to the centralized water supply line of the holiday village.
How to supply water to a bathhouse from home or a centralized network
The main village highway may be located at a shallow depth; high pressure and constant flow prevent the water from freezing even at sub-zero air temperatures. If high-quality insulation is added to this, then the pipe can freeze only in the event of an accident. Another thing is a small winter water supply directly connected to the bathhouse.
Connection diagram of pipes to the bathhouse and to the main line
If you use water pipes made of polyethylene, then you don’t have to worry too much about their integrity. Plastic will withstand any freezing. The situation is more complicated with the valve and filter, with the help of which the water pipe is connected to the central main.
In this case, the only technically competent solution is to build a caisson or well, as in the diagram.
If the bathhouse is used once a week, and there is no residential, constantly heated room nearby, then you simply cannot do without installing a caisson. There are many schemes for heating winter water supply, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. Especially in a situation where the bathhouse is located far outside the city, where the owners go once a week in winter, or there are constant power outages.
The water supply system will need to install two drain valves:
- One directly after the inlet valve;
- The second is at the lowest point of the water supply inside the bathhouse.
After completing the paired procedures, you have to lower yourself into the well, turn off the water at the entrance to the water supply and open the drainage tap. But until the drain valve inside the bathhouse is opened, the water will not leave the system. You need to go up into the room and unlock it. The air pressure in the line will equalize, and the remaining moisture, which is about 10 liters of water, will flow into a plastic container in the well.
Connecting the water supply from the house to the bathhouse
The situation is greatly simplified if the steam room is located next to a heated house. In this case, the water supply to the bathhouse can be laid without any special tricks or reinsurance.
The material you can use is polypropylene pipes, preferably the “Stabi” brand, reinforced with thick aluminum foil. In the house, the winter water supply pipe is connected to the hot water supply system. It can also be connected to the cold water outlet, but in this case, to heat the main line, you will need to put a heating element on the connecting coupling. The thermal conductivity of the foil will be sufficient for the heat supplied to the pipe to spread over 5-7 m of the length of the water pipeline.
To lay the main line, it is enough to dig a trench 60-70 cm deep between the house and the bathhouse and fill it with bulk thermal insulation. The plastic pipe is covered with two-layer polypropylene thermal insulation, laid on a cushion and covered with clay soil.
If the distance between the bathhouse and the house is more than 7 m, then you will need to use a self-regulating heating cable. The plastic line is pre-covered with metal foil, then a 24 V cable is wound in a spiral, after which a “stocking” of thermal insulation is put on and laid in the prepared trench.
It is clear that you will have to heat the winter water pipe in the bathhouse around the clock, so to ensure fire safety for electric heating you will need to make a separate step-down transformer with a circuit breaker.
Water supply to the bathhouse from a well
Very often, the main source of water for a bathhouse at a dacha or in a suburban area remains an ordinary well, dug quite far from the steam room. You have to take water from the well using a submersible pump. The water supply pipe is laid in the ground to a depth of at least 2 m and led into the well shaft through a hole in the side wall. A rubber corrugation or hose for the electrical wiring supplying the pump is laid along the same line.
To avoid defrosting of the winter water supply, a check valve is not installed on the pump, and a drain air valve is installed on the inlet line in the bathhouse. After completing the bath procedures, it is enough to open it for 10-15 minutes so that the water runs back into the well. The liquid can drain without an air throttle, but the process will be quite long, and in severe frost the water at the drain in the well shaft may be covered with ice.
Arrangement of water supply from well to bathhouse
The second most popular method is to supply water to a bathhouse from a well. The water supply system for a bathhouse is not much different from the system for an ordinary residential building, but it also has its own tricks.
If the bathhouse has a full-fledged sewerage system with drainage of dirty water into a septic tank, then a well for water supply can be drilled under the bathhouse building. It is clear that in this case it will be necessary to make a full-fledged MZL foundation with insulation of the support tape and blind area.
If the well is located outside the building, then the shaft will have to be equipped with a warm brick caisson with a double hatch. In order not to freeze the valve fittings of the water supply system, the entrance hatch at the well head is supplemented with a warm sash made of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene 70 mm thick. The caisson walls can be insulated with PPS or polyurethane foam up to the very bottom.
To discharge water from the water supply system, a drain valve with a short adapter elbow connecting the pipe to the well shaft is installed on the outlet line of the submersible pump. To drain the remaining water accumulated in the water supply in the bathhouse, just open the valve for 5-10 minutes and remember to close it back.
Many owners install remote-controlled electric valves so as not to lower themselves into the caisson after each wash in the bathhouse. This is convenient, but in practice manual valves are more reliable.
Conclusion
Winter water supply in a bathhouse, in addition to a well-thought-out design and high-quality assembly, will require regular maintenance. At least once a quarter, each valve and valve will need to be fully opened and closed a dozen times. Plastic fittings stick easily, and if you do not monitor its condition, then in a year or two the taps may sour and jam.