Radish in the holes. How to treat cruciferous flea radish? Nonwoven Shelter

Folk tricks

How to get rid of cruciferous fleas on radishes without using chemicals? Here are our tips:

• The fight against the flea should be started almost immediately, as the radish is sown in the garden... The soil is sprinkled with a "pillow" of wood ash and tobacco dust. This will not only protect the radish but also fertilize the soil.
• When the tops hatch out, you can also sprinkle it with ash and dust (even a regular street one will do). This preventive measure should be applied at least once a week... And as an option - ground black pepper or slaked lime.
• Spraying gives a good result... But they are used already when the flea was found on the culture. You can dilute a bottle of vinegar (or 2 tablespoons of essence) in a bucket of water, or prepare a decoction from tomato tops collected as a result of pinching bushes. Laundry soap is also rubbed here (0.5 pieces).
• Craftsmen came up with original traps various configurations. The simplest of them is a canopy over the garden. The underside of the awning is lubricated with any sticky compound (for example, tar). In a few days it will be possible to harvest insects.

Preventive remedies

• To make it easier to deal with the cruciferous fly, you can pre-protect the beds from its invasion:
• radishes should be planted next to tomatoes - the smell of nightshades repels insects;
• for the same reason, tansy or celandine can be planted around the perimeter of the garden;
• you can also make a distracting maneuver by planting a favorite flea weed next to the radish;
• to postpone the planting of crops to an earlier time (immediately after the snow melts);
• choose moist places for sowing radishes.

Those who do not want to "bother" to clarify the relationship with pests, you can use the method of growing crops in greenhouses. But the ubiquitous insect is able to reach there too.

Smooth, bright marketable radish evokes joy and pride in the work done on the site. But a tasty root crop is liked not only by people, but also by insects, so it is not always possible to get a beautiful harvest. There are many pests that can spoil the radish, destroy its tops or pulp. If you do not fight them, they will quickly spread, filling the site. The article will describe the pests of radish and methods of dealing with them.

Signs of pests on radishes

It is even easier to notice pests on radishes than diseases, because they are visible with the naked eye, and if we are talking about underground pests, then the appearance of the tops or a dug root crop will help determine. There are several main signs of pests:

• ulcers on the leaves;
• twisted, yellow leaves;
• black formations at the base of the sheets;
• sluggish, drooping tops for no reason;
• leaves in holes that could not appear in any other way, except from caterpillars and other pests;
• holes and tunnels are visible on the radish itself.

In particular, you need to watch out for young radish shoots. They are very vulnerable and if pests attack them, you can lose the entire crop!

Insects usually eat the leaves immediately, although underground ones can start from the root or root vegetable, so you need to be careful. And at the first sign, retaliate.

The main pests of radish

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Radish pests do not appear spontaneously in the garden. They usually switch to radishes from other crops or from weeds that are on the site.

• Cabbage White is a white butterfly with a black border along the edge of the wing. She lays eggs in areas where radishes grow, and the caterpillars hatching from them eat the bases of the radish leaves. This leads to the fact that the root crop stops growing and may simply not grow.
• The cruciferous flea is one of the most dangerous enemies of the radish. She eats still young leaves of radish, gnawing holes in them when they first appear. After their invasion, the planting bed resembles a sieve.
• The wireworm is a pest known to any gardener. This is the larva of the click beetle, which can destroy the entire plant - the ground and underground parts in a short time.
• The cabbage and garden scoop are gray-brown butterflies that also leave clutches on radish leaves. The larvae that appear from them eat the leaves, while only transparent skeletons remain from the green tops. Of course, root crops in the ground cease to develop completely and dry out or rot.
• The cabbage moth is a gray-brown insect with a remarkable fringe on its wings. The moth itself is not harmful to radish, but its larvae suck the juices from the tops and eat the leaf tissue.
• The spring and summer cabbage fly is an ash-colored insect (the summer fly is usually larger than the spring one). Among the plantings of radishes and other vegetables, she lays eggs, and the white larvae (worms) hatching from them penetrate deep into the ground and eat the roots of the radish. Within 2-3 days the radish becomes unusable.

As you can see, there are a lot of pests that threaten radish. But if you know how to deal with them, you don't have to worry about the harvest or its quality.

How to deal with radish pests?

When the gardener has recognized a pest that is encroaching on the area with radishes, you can begin to exterminate the pests. There are many specialized preparations that very effectively cope with their task, but they must be used exclusively according to the instructions, during that period of culture development when they cannot harm the crop.

• « Actellic "- a well-known drug effective against cabbage fly, cabbage whiteworm, scoops. For 10 liters of warm water, 20 ml of the substance is taken, mixed well and used for spraying. This solution is enough for 10 squares of planting.
• « Entobacterin "- a strong, biological preparation against cabbage moths, aphids, cabbage whites. It is used dry (for dusting) or liquid (for spraying). Diluted according to the guidance provided on the package.
• « Zolon »Used for cabbage whites, midges, scoops, aphids, cruciferous fleas. The method of use is indicated on the package.
• « Zemlin »Can save the site from cabbage flies, wireworms and other insects living in the ground. Diluted according to the rules on the package and used immediately. You cannot cook this product for future use!
• « Provotox »Is a strong anti-wireworm preparation that is not addictive to insects and can therefore be used annually. Divorced according to the instructions on the box.

Spraying or watering with insecticides is carried out only in dry weather. If it rains after using the insecticide, it is advisable to repeat the procedure, because the water washes away most of the insecticide.

• « Aktara "- a universal preparation against various pests on cruciferous plants. He can remove caterpillars, larvae, butterflies, moths, aphids from the site. However, you need to use it carefully because it is also harmful to bees. Therefore, it is always used only according to the instructions and only when there are no flowering plants nearby.
• « Initiative »Hatches wireworm, caterpillars, scoop, cruciferous flea beetle, fly larvae, cabbage white beetle. One bag (30 g) is enough for about 15 square meters of land. This remedy is prepared atypically. It is not divorced with water, but mixed with sand. A ¾ liter jar is filled with sand, and then 30 g of the substance is poured there and mixed. The resulting composition is sprayed over the site.
• « Bazudin »Copes with the invasion of bears, cabbage fly larvae, weevils, wireworms. To use, fill a ¾ liter jar with sand, add 30 g of Bazudin and spray over the area with radishes. This amount is usually sufficient for 20 square meters of planting.

Folk methods of struggle

In the case when radish pests have just appeared on the plant, you can not immediately use strong, specialized means, but do with folk remedies.

• Ash soap. In a bucket of water (10 L), dissolve 50 g of laundry soap and 2 glasses of wood ash. The resulting composition is thoroughly mixed and used for watering the radish. This tool copes with the cruciferous flea.
• Mustard with pepper. If a mole, scoop, cabbage whitewash appears on the radish, you can scare them away with this remedy. A teaspoon of red, hot pepper powder, 2 tablespoons of salt and the same amount of dry mustard are mixed in 10 liters of water. Plants are watered with the resulting mixture.
• Tobacco and ash drive away caterpillars, larvae, flea bees. With one of these means or both, you just need to powder the leaves and the ground where the radish grows. This simple procedure will scare away pests.
• Ash and lime in a 1: 1 mixture can drive away a horde of cruciferous flea beetles. But you need to use this tool only in dry weather, and repeat after rains.

Preventive actions

Every gardener knows what pests live on his site or lived earlier. In order to prevent their secondary appearance or damage to radish by them, preventive measures must be taken.

• The aisles should be clean - no weeds, fallen leaves, and it is also not recommended to thicken the crops.
• Preventive spraying of crops avoids possible problems. But it is not necessary to use insecticides for this. If there are no pests yet, folk recipes will also be effective.

Interesting!

Insects are especially active during the hot season. And most of all they are attracted by young radish.

• Any affected plants are best removed rather than waiting for the crop to recover. While the gardener waits, the pest looks for new, tasty treats and switches to them.
• Rot always attracts pests, so there should be no such odors on the site. Old mulch changes in time, fallen leaves are burned, waste is thrown away.
• Observance of crop rotation avoids pests. You can't plant radishes after crucifers!
• Watering should be done in moderation. An abundance or lack of moisture can attract insects for which such an environment is comfortable.
• An acidic environment is liked by many pests, so you need to control the acidity of the earth and adjust it as needed.

As you can see, everything is not very difficult, the main thing is to take a comprehensive approach to the problem, if it appears. But, in general, subject to preventive measures and a timely response to the appearance of pests, the gardener may not worry about the radish harvest.

Pest and disease control of radish in the open field

Agrospan protects radishes from fleas
Agrospan protects radishes from cruciferous fleas

Although radishes do not have as many pests and diseases as, for example, tomatoes, they do exist, and they can destroy most of the crop. This article is an addition to a lot of material on growing radishes.

Keeping crop rotation on the backyard helps well in the fight against diseases. Since radish is an early ripening crop (the harvest can be obtained in about 1 month), that is, the temptation to return to the same garden with repeated sowing after a while already in the same season. Doing so is highly undesirable. Since this can lead to outbreaks of various diseases. It is also highly undesirable to plant radishes after cabbage or other cruciferous plants. Good predecessors are onions, garlic, peas, beans, potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, taverns.

Pests

The main scourge of radish is cruciferous fleas - small bugs, usually dark in color, jump well from place to place. They damage the radish leaves (make holes in them). And if the damage to the leaf apparatus of the plant reaches a critical size, then the plant stops growing abruptly and may die. At the same time, the root crop does not ripen and does not grow to the specified size. Radish shoots should be especially protected from flea beetles. Otherwise, crops can be completely destroyed (eaten). An adult plant can still tolerate flea beetles to some extent. Fleas are especially rampant in dry hot weather. Early plantings of radish can generally yield crops before the mass appearance of cruciferous flea beetles.

The fight against the flea should be carried out using biological methods.
The first method is to spray the leaves with a solution of wood ash. The solution is prepared as follows: about 2 glasses of preferably fresh ash and 50 grams of laundry soap are added to a 10-liter bucket of water. Everything gets mixed up. Some make it easier. They collect ashes on a shovel and crush them over the garden. For a while, the flea limits its harmful activities.

The second way is the same. Only tobacco dust is used instead of ash. It should be said right away that you still need to look for tobacco dust in stores, and although it is not expensive, it is still worth it. And the ash is usually its own, free.

All these methods are still not effective enough. The most effective is treatment with an insecticide, such as Inta-Vir. But this should be done only as a last resort, only for medium-sized radishes (ripening period 25 days) and only for young seedlings, if the threat of destruction of crops is high enough.
Another exotic (mechanical) way of dealing with cruciferous flea beetles is to cover radishes with white agrospan right along the shoots. If the weather is not too hot, then the seedlings under it do not stretch out and there are no fleas en masse. After the seedlings have grown stronger, we remove the non-woven covering material and fight further with ash.

Important note. It is advisable to transfer radish to drip irrigation. Otherwise, all efforts to combat the flea with the help of infusion on ash will be in vain after the first watering from above on the leaves. The infusion is washed off the leaves, and the flea is back to work.
Another remark. If cultivated plants and weeds of the cruciferous family grow next to the radish, then all the surroundings can be treated with chemistry.

Whitewash is another radish pest. Belianka is a white butterfly with dark edging of its wings. But the leaves of the radish are eaten by its caterpillars.
When fighting a whitewash, it is also desirable to do without the use of chemicals. The beds must be treated with a solution of mustard, table salt and ground pepper. It is prepared like this: for a 10-liter bucket of water - 2 tablespoons of mustard, 2 tablespoons of salt and 1 teaspoon of red or black pepper.

Radish diseases

Bacteriosis. Root crops become slimy, begin to emit a rotten smell. In this case, the leaves of the radish turn yellow.
To combat this disease, plants are treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Keela. Swellings and growths appear on the surface of root crops, radish leaves begin to turn yellow and wither.
To combat this fungal disease, the soil around the damaged plants is watered with milk of lime. It is prepared like this: 2 glasses of fluffy lime are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water. One plant must be watered with 1 liter of solution.

Blackleg. Young radish plants can be affected by the black leg. Leaves curl and turn yellow, blackening appears at the base of the plant stem.
To combat the black leg, the following solution is prepared: 1 tablespoon of copper sulfate and 40-50 grams of laundry soap shavings are dissolved in a 10-liter bucket of water. Then the diseased plants are sprayed.
It is also very good to spray the seedlings with onion husk tincture 2-3 times with an interval of 6 days (about 20 g per liter, leave for 1 day).

When choosing varieties of radish for planting, preference should be given to varieties resistant to various diseases.
But it can be repeated once again that it is better to take preventive measures. And then the likelihood of disease will dramatically decrease.

Common signs of pest damage to radish

The main pests of radish and the fight against them

There are ground and underground pests that can ruin your radish crop. If you notice the first signs of damage, you need to urgently take action. Today, there are many effective pest control methods that can help deal with the problem early.

Cruciferous fleas (Latin Phyllotretacruciferae)

If radish pests are found on the surface of the foliage, which jump high and destroy the tops, gnawing holes in it, then cruciferous fleas are on your plants. Such damage is fraught with infection of the leaves with bacteriosis, which can spread to root crops. In addition, the complete wilting of the green mass will cause growth arrest or deformation of the radish.

To further protect the plants, they are sprinkled once a week with a mixture of ash and lime in a 1: 1 ratio. This should be done in dry weather, and be sure to repeat after rains.

In case of mass defeat, the following drugs are used to fight: Tod, Alfatsin, Zolon, Kaiser, Arrivo.

Cabbage whites (Pierisbrassicae)

They love the juicy leaves of the radish. Caterpillars are located on the underside of the leaves and gradually spread to neighboring plants. The first sign of the appearance of an insect is twisted leaves with oblong holes.

When spreading pests, chemical agents are effective: Iskra M, Kemifos, Fitoferm.

Garden moth larvae (Latin Noctuidae)

Before treating radishes with chemicals, you can try spraying with an infusion of potato tops, which works well for garden scoops. To prepare it, take 500 grams of dried plants and insist in a warm place for 4 hours. Before spraying, 50 grams of grated laundry soap can be added to the solution. Irrigation is carried out in the evening, always in dry weather.

If folk remedies do not help, it makes sense to apply chemicals. In the fight against these insects, Zeta-cypermethrin, IntaVir are effective.

Wireworms and clickers (lat.Elateridae)

Give preference to young shoots. The click beetles themselves feed on leaves, and their larvae feed on juicy root vegetables. Wireworm damage is fraught with the development of rot, and many other fungal diseases. Radish begins to blacken and rot from the inside. The damaged crop cannot be stored, most often it loses its taste.

Nutcrackers do not tolerate ammonium sulfate fertilizers. The use of such funds will help get rid of pests, and therefore from contamination of the soil with their larvae.

A good prevention against wireworms is to add onion husks to each well when planting radishes and other cruciferous crops. If the pest has attacked a large area of \u200b\u200bthe site, you can use the drug Bazudin.

Cabbage moth (Latin Plutellaxylostella) and cabbage fly (Latin Anthomyiidae)

The insects themselves are safe for radishes, but the larvae of these insects damage the root of the plant, eating holes in it. Caterpillars can completely destroy young leaves, which will stop the process of photosynthesis and, accordingly, the development of the root crop.

The question arises of how to spray radishes from pests before they have time to lay the larvae. Cabbage flies and moths will die if you use substances based on naphthalene, slaked lime, camphor. If more than 15% of plants are damaged, it is worth applying Lepidocide, Bitoxibacillin.

Stem nematodes (lat.Ditylenchusdipsaci)

The most dangerous pests of radish are stem nematodes. They feed on plant sap, can live in the root collar of the fruit, the root itself, or the stem. Damaged radish stops growing, in many cases the plant withers, becomes sick, and dies.

If the risk of infection is too high, that is: nematodes were found in neighboring plants, or these pests were in the beds last year, insecticides should be applied. In the fight against nematodes, the following are used: Dimethoat, Rogor, Vidat. The use of chemistry is advisable only for young seedlings in spring, as well as in early summer - for varieties with medium and late ripening.

Preventive methods for protecting crucifers

In order for radishes to grow and bear fruit well, the pests, the control measures for which we considered in the material, should not multiply and feel comfortable on your site. This requires:

• ensure cleanliness in the aisles, remove leaves and grass;
• carry out preventive treatments of plants;
• remove infected plants on the site, the putrid smell attracts pests;
• do not store sheaves of straw, manure heaps, overheating leaves;
• observe the norms of irrigation and fertilization, control the acidity of the soil;
• regularly use ash and ash as a top dressing for radishes.

It is important to take into account that radishes, cabbage, turnips are affected by the same insects as radish pests, and the fight against them on all cruciferous crops is carried out in a complex manner.

Outcome

After spraying the radish with protective agents, it is recommended to irrigate by drip, so as not to wash off the preventive agents from the leaves of plants. Regularly applying preventive methods of radish pest control and folk recipes for organic mixtures, you can grow an excellent harvest without the use of drugs, and in case of massive damage to cruciferous plants, use chemical agents to prevent the destruction of the crop.

Almost all gardeners grow radishes on their plots. It belongs to early maturing crops, so it rarely suffers from diseases and pests, especially with proper care. But he still does not have absolute protection. If the gardener does not pay at least minimal attention to planting, it is likely that fungal diseases or pest attacks will develop. Therefore, you need to know the characteristic symptoms, be able to identify the problem and know how to cope with it. At an early stage, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient, in other cases it will be necessary to use "heavy artillery" in the form of chemicals.

General measures to prevent the development of diseases and attacks of radish pests

The short ripening period is one of the advantages of the radish. Many pathogenic fungi, bacteria and viruses, eggs and insect larvae simply do not have time to go through the incubation period to cause significant damage to the plantings. But this does not mean that the culture, in principle, cannot suffer from diseases and pests.

To avoid negative consequences in the form of crop loss, it is advisable to regularly pay attention to preventive measures. There is nothing complicated in them, they will take very little time. But such events, coupled with competent agricultural technology, make it possible to practically guarantee planting protection from unwanted "guests".

There is nothing difficult in growing radish, but this crop is not immune from disease and pest attacks.

A close inspection of the beds at least once every 4-5 days helps to detect the problem in time. In the early stages of infection, as a rule, in order to cope with it, there are enough folk remedies that are harmless to human health and the environment. Chemicals, especially those that do not belong to preparations of biological origin, are very undesirable to use for the treatment of radishes. The culture is early ripening, harmful substances accumulate in root crops.

Plants with good immunity get sick much less often than those in which it is weakened. It is positively affected by soaking the seeds before planting in a solution of any biostimulant. A similar effect is given both by drugs purchased in the store (Epin, potassium humate, Emistim-M) and folk remedies (aloe juice, honey, succinic acid). But the excess nitrogen in the soil provides the opposite result, weakening the plants. This macronutrient in large doses also has one more negative consequence - radish begins to actively form leaves to the detriment of root crops. Potassium and phosphorus strengthen the immune system. Their natural source is wood ash.

To prevent fungal diseases, seeds are etched in a solution of any fungicide of biological origin for 15–20 minutes before planting. The most common drugs are Strobi, Tiovit-Jet, Alirin-B, Bayleton.

Soaking seeds in a fungicide solution is an effective prevention of fungal diseases

A necessary condition for obtaining a bountiful harvest in a personal plot is crop rotation. Radish cannot be planted for 3-4 years where other crops from the Cruciferous family grew before (all types of cabbage, turnip, radish, rutabaga, turnip, daikon). In general, they are placed as far away from each other as possible. They extract the same nutrients from the soil, suffer from similar diseases. This family also includes many weeds used by pathogens as a "transshipment base". Therefore, do not forget about regular weeding.

Cabbage, like other Crucifers, is a poor precursor and neighbor for radishes.

Radish seeds are planted as rarely as possible. With thickened plantings, diseases spread much faster. Plants are not ventilated, which is also harmful for them. Proper watering is also important. Avoid getting drops on leaves and stems.

Since autumn, the garden bed is dug up or at least deeply loosened. This helps to destroy fungal spores, eggs and pest larvae overwintering in the soil. All plant debris is collected and burned. It is strictly forbidden to use fresh manure as top dressing. It is an excellent breeding ground for them, moreover, it helps to keep the warmth necessary in cold weather.

Digging up the beds in the fall helps to destroy the eggs and larvae of many pests that were going to winter in the soil

Culture-typical diseases

Radish does not have any specific diseases. Most often it is affected by the most common fungal, bacterial or viral diseases, which do not bypass any garden crops in general or plants from the Cruciferous family.

Belle of cabbage crops (white rust)

All Cruciferous plants suffer from the disease to one degree or another, but radishes, horseradish and turnips are affected much more often than cabbage. It is most dangerous for young plants. The optimum temperature for the development of the fungus is about 15 ° C. Another risk factor is cool rainy weather or sudden temperature changes that provoke fog and / or heavy dew.

Radishes suffer from white rust more often than other cruciferous plants.

Light green spots appear on the face of the leaf. The tissues in these places thicken, gradually turn brown and die off. On the seamy side, abscess-like pustules form. The leaf swells around them. When they "break through", a whitish, oily-shiny coating becomes visible, as if flakes of peeling paint. On root crops, if they had time to ripen, growths appear, resembling those that are characteristic of keels. The radish can turn into color, the stem begins to branch intensively, turning into something that looks like deer antlers. If you do nothing, it dries up and dies.

In case of severe damage, fungicides of biological origin are used - Ridomil-Gold, Ditan-M, Folikur. Folk remedies are effective in the early stages of the development of the disease and for prevention. These are, for example, a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate, soda ash or baking soda, colloidal sulfur (10-15 g per 10 liters). To make the solution better "stick" to the treated plants, add a little liquid soap or soap shavings (3-5 ml or 10-15 g) to it. Preventive treatments are carried out every 7-10 days (or more often if it rains constantly). To combat the disease, radishes are sprayed 3-4 times with an interval of 4-5 days.

Potassium permanganate is one of the most common disinfectants

Keela

A specific disease that is very dangerous for all Cruciferous plants. A gardener can lose at least half of the entire crop. It often disappears completely. The causative agent of the fungus is distinguished by rare vitality. In those beds where the keel has shown itself, potentially infected crops are not planted for 8-10 years. You can shorten this period to 4–5 years by placing tomatoes, potatoes, beets or any other legumes there.

Keela is a disease that affects only cruciferous plants

On the aerial part of the plant, the keel does not appear in any way. During the incubation period (20-30 days), growths of various sizes in the form of a ball or fusiform are formed on the roots and root crops. Gradually they turn brown and rot. The stem turns yellow, the leaves dry and lie down, as the plant does not receive enough water and nutrients.

Factors favoring the development of keels are too frequent and / or abundant watering, unsuitable heavy soil in which moisture stagnates for a long time, acidity of the substrate, high temperature (from 25 ° C). But it is also impossible to completely forget about watering - the keel causes the greatest damage during a prolonged drought. The disease spreads through infected seeds, soil, manure, it is carried by worms that live in the soil. It affects not only "cultured" Cruciferous plants, but also wild ones (shepherd's purse, rape).

Proper watering of the radish helps to slightly reduce the damage done to the keel crop.

Practice shows that radishes suffer much less from keels when they are planted early. Etching in Cumulus solution also helps to avoid contamination.

No remedies have been developed for the treatment of kila at the moment. The main focus should be on preventive measures. 2-3 days before planting the seeds, the soil is loosened, embedding sifted wood ash in it, or watered with so-called milk of lime (two glasses of slaked lime per 10 liters of water). You can also treat the bed with a solution of Carbation (40 g per 10 L) or Fundazol (10 g per 10 L).

A very dangerous viral disease that can affect most garden crops. Infected specimens lag behind in growth and development, the leaves are deformed and smaller. The front side of the leaf plate is covered with lettuce or yellowish-green spots located in the intervals between the veins. Depending on which particular virus has infected the plant, they can have the form of circles, strokes, angular spots. Gradually, these tissues turn black and die off. The veins darken too.

Radish mosaic is a viral disease, there are currently no remedies for its treatment

It is impossible to get rid of the mosaic virus using modern means. The only way to stop its spread is to remove all affected plants from the garden and burn them as quickly as possible.

The best prevention is competent crop care and keeping the beds clean. It is especially important to strengthen the plant's immunity, timely and in the right doses by applying the necessary fertilizers. Before planting, it is recommended to pickle radish seeds in a solution of Rovral, Horus, Topaz. The carriers of the virus are many insects, for example, weevils, aphids, and ticks. We must not forget about the fight against them.

Etching in Rovral's solution is a good prevention, but not absolutely guaranteed protection against the mosaic virus

Powdery mildew

A very common disease, not a single garden crop is immune from it. Leaves and petioles are covered with a layer of powdery whitish or pale gray coating, reminiscent of scattered flour. If nothing is done, it becomes denser and changes color, turning into large brown spots with black blotches on the surface. The tissues affected by the fungus die off, holes are formed. The sheet plates are deformed. As a rule, the leaves closest to the soil are infected first.

Powdery mildew on the leaves seems to be a harmless bloom that can be easily erased, but in fact it is a dangerous disease.

Most often, radish is affected by powdery mildew in hot, humid weather. Another risk factor is sudden temperature changes. The fungus is spread by the wind, with water droplets, and by direct contact with infected and healthy plants. The yield falls by 50% or more, and the quality of root crops also decreases.

For the prevention of powdery mildew, as a rule, folk remedies are sufficient. Radish is sprayed at least once a week with a solution of colloidal sulfur, infusion of wood ash, sour milk or sour milk, diluted water, decoction of horsetail rhizomes. If time has already been lost and the fungus has spread en masse, copper-containing preparations are used - fungicides. The experience of gardeners shows that Skor, Quadris, Raek, Fundazim give the best effect in the fight against powdery mildew. From drugs of biological origin - Alirin-B, Gamair, Planriz. But some also rely on the old time-tested remedies - copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid.

Wood ash is not only a source of potassium and phosphorus, it helps to destroy the spores of pathogenic fungi

Video: how to protect plants from powdery mildew

Peronosporosis (downy mildew)

The characteristic symptoms appear primarily on the leaves. They are covered with small angular spots with a seemingly oily surface. Gradually, their color changes from salad to straw yellow and dark brown. If the weather is wet, the inside of the leaf is covered with a continuous layer of greyish-purple bloom, reminiscent of felt. The whole process takes 10-13 days.

Peronosporosis develops quickly enough, so you should not hesitate to take measures

To prevent the development of the disease, radishes are sprayed twice with boric acid diluted in water (10–15 g per 10 l) or Pseudobacterin, Rizoplan during the growing season. From folk remedies, an infusion of onion or garlic arrows, wormwood is used. The seeds are soaked in a solution of Bud, Energen, potassium humate, Fitosporin-M. To combat the disease, the same drugs are used that are recommended for the destruction of the fungus that causes powdery mildew.

Garlic is a plant that produces phytoncides that kill disease-causing fungi

Brown spots spread on root crops, quickly tightening with a layer of "fluffy" gray-gray bloom with small black "specks". The tissues under them soften and rot, the stem and petioles become watery, the leaves lose their tone. High humidity combined with low air temperature contributes to the development of the disease.

It is impossible to eat any fruits affected by gray rot

To prevent the development of gray rot, wood ash is periodically introduced into the soil, the plants are powdered with colloidal sulfur or crushed activated carbon. They can also be sprayed with mustard powder or iodine diluted with water (50 g or 10 drops per 10 liters, respectively). Several crystals of potassium permanganate are added to the water for irrigation every 7-10 days. It is useful to surround the garden with plants that produce natural phytoncides - marigolds, calendula, nasturtiums.

Marigolds are not only a beautiful, but also a very useful plant.

If gray rot is noticed on time, the plants and soil are treated with the following solution - for 10 liters of water, take a glass of sifted wood ash and crushed chalk, add 10-12 ml of copper sulfate. In case of mass infection, Teldor, Horus, Switch, Gamair are used. But this no longer guarantees success.

Vascular bacteriosis

Most often, the disease affects adult plants, seedlings are practically not affected by it. The veins on the leaves turn black, then spots of the same color spread around them. The leaf plate turns yellow, as if "crumbling". Radish growth slows down, the petioles are deformed.

Adult radish most often suffers from vascular bacteriosis already at the stage of root crop formation

Risk factors - high humidity, heat, mechanical damage. The disease is transmitted by insects, raindrops. The bacterium lives in plant debris, unripe manure, remains in seeds from infected plants, retaining its viability for 2-3 seasons. For disinfection, the planting material is immersed in hot (45–50 ° C) water for 15–20 minutes immediately before planting.

To prevent infection, 10–12 days after the emergence of seedlings, radish seedlings are sprayed with Planriz or Trichodermin. In the early stages of infection, radishes can be saved by treating them with Binoram or Phytolavin. If the disease has gone far in its development, the plants can no longer be helped.

Fitolavin is a popular drug that increases plant immunity

"Blackleg"

Fungal disease affecting mainly young seedlings. Adult, mature plants have sufficient resistance. The base of the stem turns black and becomes thinner, the seedlings fall on the ground under their own weight. The leaves turn yellow, the plant dries up. The disease develops quite quickly, as a rule, the affected plants can no longer be helped. But it is quite realistic to prevent the appearance of the "black leg".

"Black leg" can deprive the gardener of the radish harvest already at the stage of germination

The most important preventive measure is proper watering. The fungus also loves stale air (when growing radishes in a greenhouse, it must be regularly ventilated), heat and acidified substrate. Seeds are sown on time, not earlier. Low temperatures and lack of light negatively affect plant immunity.

Seeds must undergo pre-planting preparation. They are soaked in an infusion of garlic gruel, a dark raspberry solution of potassium permanganate. The soil in the garden bed 3-4 days before planting the radish is spilled with a solution of colloidal sulfur or hot water, and immediately after the procedure is sprinkled with a thin layer of fine sand. Crushed charcoal or chalk is poured to the bases of the stems of the seedlings that have appeared, the plants themselves are powdered with sifted wood ash. Water for irrigation is periodically replaced with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Baktofit, reducing its concentration by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. Folk remedies - infusion of onion peel or marigold greens.

Infusion of onion peels is an effective means of preventing "black leg"

Finding that several plants have become infected, sharply reduce watering to the required minimum, allowing the soil to dry well. The soil is loosened, adding granules of Trichodermin, Glyokladin, Barrier in the process.

Video: methods of dealing with the "black leg"

Common pests affecting radishes

There are a lot of pests that can cause significant damage to radishes. These are insects that infect exclusively Cruciferous plants, and "omnivores" that attack most other garden crops.

Small (up to 0.3 cm in diameter) black bugs, shimmering golden in the sun, turn radish leaves into a sieve in a very short time. They have very good jumping ability, due to which they cover considerable distances relatively quickly. The pest waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, under fallen leaves. Females of the cruciferous flea lay eggs on the leaves, the larvae hatching from them eat the roots of the plants. Insects do not like heat and high humidity; in such weather, their activity decreases sharply.

In the heat, especially if it rains frequently, the activity of the cruciferous flea beetle sharply decreases

In order to scare off the cruciferous flea from the beds, the soil where radish shoots have appeared is sprinkled with a mixture of sifted ash with crushed dried tobacco leaves, ground pepper, mustard powder. You can simply prevent the pest from entering the garden if you tighten it with any air-permeable white covering material. During the growing season, radishes are treated with infusion of dandelion leaves, tomato tops or potatoes, diluted in water with vinegar (25–30 ml of essence per 10 l) every 5–7 days. Along the perimeter, the beds are surrounded by a naphthalene barrier.

The cruciferous flea does not tolerate the smell of vinegar

In the event of a mass invasion, chemicals are used. Decis, Sherpa, Aktara, Lightning show themselves in the best way. An alternative is a flea shampoo for pets (40-50 ml per 10 liters). You can also catch bugs manually by building something like a flag. A piece of cloth is attached in a stick, smeared with something sticky and passed over the tops of the radish.

Caterpillars of a butterfly

Females lay eggs on leaves, the first generation of larvae hatch in late June, the second in September. Striped greenish-yellow caterpillars are able to eat a plant in a few days, leaving only petioles from the leaves of the radish.

There is hardly a gardener who has never seen the white butterfly, also known as the cabbage

When the first butterflies appear in the garden, in order not to allow them to lay eggs, the soil and the plants themselves are sprayed with infusions of any herbs with a sharp characteristic odor (wormwood, tomato tops, rosemary, basil, sage). Of the chemicals, Entobacterin, Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocid are used for the same purpose. You can also tighten the garden bed with a fine mesh, add a few drops of lavender or any citrus essential oil to the water for irrigation. Traps are hung next to it - cut-off plastic bottles filled with sugar syrup, honey or jam diluted with water. A similar effect is obtained with fly sticky tape.

Whitefish caterpillars are able to eat a plant in a matter of days

Experienced gardeners advise to "deceive" butterflies by scattering pieces of eggshell around the garden. Their insects are mistaken for "congeners" and fly further, being sure that "the place is already taken."

Caterpillars are destroyed with the help of Kinmix, Sumi-Alpha, Actellik. You can make them leave the garden by dusting the soil with wood ash mixed with any spice or spice - mustard, cinnamon, saffron, ginger.

Spring cabbage fly

It can cause very serious harm to radish plantings. The peak of its activity falls on the second half of May and early June (you can focus on the beginning of flowering of lilac and bird cherry). Just at this time, gardeners are actively planting culture. Females lay eggs in the upper layers of the soil, the larvae penetrate the roots and eat them out from the inside, severely damaging the emerging roots, then turn into petioles. The plant withers, the leaves acquire an unnatural bluish tint.

Adults of the cabbage fly do not harm plants, but this does not mean that they do not need to be dealt with.

To scare off the cabbage fly, the garden bed is sprinkled with a mixture of tobacco dust with camphor and dry bay leaf crushed to a powdery state 3–5 days after the emergence of shoots. It is recommended to plant marigolds, parsley, celery, coriander around the perimeter and in the aisles. Materials with a rather coarse texture are used as mulch - wood chips, sawdust. Also, all measures are applicable to scare off white butterflies.

Cabbage fly larvae penetrate the plant tissue through the roots

In the event of a mass invasion of caterpillars, chemicals are used. Karate, Antio, Iskra-Bio, Rovikurt have recommended themselves in the best way. They also do not tolerate ammonia and vinegar. For 10 liters of water, 5 ml is enough.

It is very difficult not to notice the pest on the radish. Its red-black striped and mottled color contrasts very effectively with the bright green leaves. Females lay eggs on leaves, hatched from them individuals overwinter in fallen leaves and other plant debris. They come out of hibernation in the second half of April or early May, the period of their activity continues until August. Radish gets maximum damage in hot dry weather. Bed bugs feed on plant sap. Where mechanical damage was inflicted by them, "wounds" remain, gradually turning into areas of dead tissue with a yellowish border.

It is very difficult not to notice a cruciferous bug on a plant.

The experience of gardeners proves that the pest does not tolerate the smell of tansy. It is useful to plant this plant around the perimeter of a garden bed with radishes or periodically spray it with infusion of herbs. Not a bad effect of dates are tampons moistened with kerosene or turpentine and spread out in the aisles.

Tansy planted nearby will effectively protect the radish garden from cruciferous ticks

Having found the first pests on the plant, you can simply collect them by hand. To make them go away, radishes and soil in the garden are sprayed with extracts of chamomile, onion husks. The most effective chemicals are Phosbecid, Belofos, Aktara.

An inconspicuous grayish-brown butterfly does no harm to plants. What can not be said about its larvae. Yellowish caterpillars, gradually changing their color to light green, eat out longitudinal tunnels in leaf tissues. Then they come to the surface and continue to feed on them. Affected leaf plates turn pale and dry. Insects wake up from hibernation as soon as the air warms up to 10 ° C, their activity does not stop until October-November. The maximum harm to radishes is caused in the heat with a prolonged absence of precipitation.

Cabbage moth is a very nondescript butterfly

Folk remedies in the fight against a pest do not give a special effect. The maximum that they can - slightly slow down the activity of the caterpillars. Recommend, for example, an infusion of dried lavender or the peel of any citrus. Therefore, in order to destroy them, you will have to resort to chemicals - Ambush, Nurell-D, Talkord. Adult butterflies are scared away using the methods recommended for whitewash control.

Folk remedies in the fight against cabbage moth larvae are ineffective

For some reason, they also have a special love for the color yellow. This can be used by making traps from pieces of cardboard or plywood of the appropriate shade, smeared with something sticky and taking a long time to dry.

The butterfly is dirty yellow in color with vague brown spots and strokes on the wings. It is nocturnal, so it is quite difficult to notice its appearance in time. Its caterpillars, as it were, scrape off the top layer of tissue from the leaves, leaving "indentations" - the gate for all kinds of infections and other pests. The characteristic lesions are especially noticeable on the wrong side of the sheet.

It is problematic to notice the appearance of the cabbage fireball - it is active mainly at night.

Adults are destroyed using traps. A light source is placed in a cut plastic bottle, smearing its walls with something sticky. You can also use Bitoxibacillin, Dendrobacillin. Against caterpillars, the best effect is given by the drugs Anometrin, Ripkord, Sumicidin, Gomelin. If you managed to notice their appearance on time, folk remedies help well, but they do not have any negative effect on the eggs of the fire. Radish and soil in the garden are recommended to be treated with infusion of sifted wood ash, tomato tops.

Caterpillars of cabbage fire can be driven out of the garden with the help of folk remedies, but the eggs will not suffer from this.

The caterpillar of the rape sawfly is greenish-gray or olive green with brown longitudinal stripes and a slightly lighter belly. The adult is extremely small - the body length does not exceed 6–8 mm, the body and limbs are of a bright saffron hue, the head is black, as if varnished. The pest eats the leaves almost completely, leaving only the petioles. Radish dries and dies, roots are not formed. A gardener who does nothing can lose 80–95% of the entire crop.

The rapeseed sawfly, as the name suggests, has a special penchant for rapeseed, but also does not disdain radish.

For prophylaxis, before planting, radish seeds are soaked in Karate or Actellik solution for 10-15 minutes. Adults are scared away from planting with Bitoxibacillin. From folk remedies for treating plants and soil, you can use extracts of chamomile, pine needles, tansy, aconite (the latter is very poisonous). Caterpillars effectively destroy Mospilan, Kinmix, Arrivo, Fury. If there are still few of them, you can spray the plantings with soda ash or baking soda diluted in water, mustard powder (40-50 g per 10 l).

Many common general-purpose insecticides are used to control rape sawfly larvae.

The bug looks pretty nice - lacquered black, in the sun it shines blue-green (this is what it owes its nickname "shiny" or "shiny"). It waits out the winter in the upper layers of the soil, as soon as the air warms up to 10–12 ° C, it wakes up and goes outside. As a rule, it causes the greatest damage to rapeseed (hence the name), eating away flower buds from the inside, but it does not disdain other Cruciferous plants (even wild ones), in particular, radishes. Crop losses range from 20 to 70%. It depends on how purposefully the gardener is fighting the pest. The peak of its activity lasts from the second half of May to the end of June.

The rape flower beetle reaches its peak in late spring or early summer.

Folk remedies in this case do not give any effect at all. Therefore, having found the first individuals on the plants, any insecticides from the pyrethroid group are used. The most popular of them are Karate, Zeon, Kinmiks, Fastak. You can try to "distract" him from the radish by planting some rapeseed or rapeseed nearby.

Literally 2-3 rapeseed bushes planted in the garden can distract the rape flower beetle from more important crops for the gardener

Slugs

Grayish-beige molluscs devoid of their shells, feeding on root crops and radish greens. They can destroy young shoots completely. In adult specimens, they eat out large holes in leaf tissues, make through "tunnels" in root crops. A sticky trail remains on the surface, casting silvery in the sun. Slugs do not like heat and dry air, so during the day they prefer to hide (for example, under stones, boards, leaves), leading a predominantly nocturnal lifestyle.

Radish, damaged by slugs, sharply loses in keeping quality and presentability

It is quite difficult to remove slugs. It is much easier to prevent them from appearing in the garden. For this, several traps are built - deep containers dug into the soil, about half filled with chopped cabbage, kvass, beer, fermented compote or jam. The bases of the root crops are surrounded by a “barrier” of wood ash, crushed chalk, sand, pine needles, ground nuts or eggshells. Any spicy aromatic herbs and other plants with a strong aroma are planted around the beds and in the aisles. Fresh nettle or wormwood leaves can also be placed there.

Slugs do not have even minimal protection, so the needles serve as an insurmountable barrier for them.

Slugs have natural enemies - birds, frogs, hedgehogs. It is not so difficult to attract them to your own site. You can, for example, build a birdhouse or a small pond, periodically display plates of milk, and so on.

Having found several individuals, the radish and soil in the garden are sprayed with infusion of chili peppers or mustard powder diluted in water. There are, although extremely rare, cases of mass invasion of slugs. Then you can't do without chemicals. From the best side, the preparations Meta, Groza, Slizneed have proven themselves.

Video: ways to deal with slugs

Aphid

An extremely "omnivorous" pest that does not disdain the absolute majority of horticultural crops. Radish is no exception. Aphids are small greenish-yellow, pale-green or black-brown insects. It feeds on plant sap, attacking it with whole colonies. Many insects stick to the underside of leaves, especially young ones. Affected areas of tissue become discolored, in the light they look like small translucent beige dots. The leaves are deformed, turn yellow and dry.

Aphids affect the vast majority of horticultural crops

Aphids live in stable symbiosis with ants. It is impossible to remove it from the garden plot if you do not simultaneously take care of the fight against these insects too.

It is impossible to remove aphids from the garden area without first getting rid of the ants

Aphids do not like strong strong odors. Therefore, spicy herbs, onions, garlic, fennel, marigolds, calendula, lavender will be good neighbors for radishes. Many of them are good honey plants, attracting the attention of the natural enemy of aphids - the ladybug. From their greens, infusions are prepared, which are sprayed on plants and soil. Other suitable raw materials are orange peels, pine needles, dried tobacco leaves, mustard powder.

On the contrary, there are plants that attract aphids. These are, for example, nasturtium, petunias, viburnum, linden, bird cherry.

Having found the first individuals, the radishes are sprayed with household foam, green potash or tar soap. After about half an hour, it will need to be washed off with clean water. Then apply the same infusions that were used for prophylaxis, reducing the intervals between treatments from 8-10 days to 6-8 hours.

In the event of a mass invasion of aphids, any general-purpose insecticides are used. The most popular drugs are Inta-Vir, Confidor-Maxi, Iskra-Bio, Admiral, Tanrek.

Video: how to deal with aphids in the garden

The beetle affects the plantings of Cruciferous plants, including radishes, in most of Russia, with the exception of the Far East and Eastern Siberia. Its color is very interesting - a bottle-green body with dark brown paws. The elytra seem to be embossed; eight dents, similar to points, are clearly visible on the head. Beetles begin to show activity in early June.

Babanukha is also known by the nickname "shitty leaf beetle"

The pest gradually eats up the leaf plate, "scraping" layers of tissue. The leaves become thinner, acquire an unnatural rusty hue, and become as if "rotten". Through holes with ragged edges gradually appear. Females lay eggs in cracks in affected tissues, larvae hibernate in soil.

For prevention, the soil in the garden is sprinkled with a mixture of ash with mustard powder and ground hot pepper. The radish itself is sprayed with vinegar diluted with water (15–20 ml of essence per 10 liters of water). Other popular folk remedies are infusion of tomato tops, chamomile, yarrow.

Cut stepchildren of tomatoes can be used to prepare an infusion that repels many pests

On plants, beetles are very conspicuous, so you can simply collect them by hand. But it takes a long time. It is much faster to shake them off on an oilcloth or newspaper spread on the garden bed. It is best to carry out the procedure early in the morning, when they are not very active. Of the insecticides, Sherpa, Angio, Fury, Aktara are the most effective.

Radish is one of the easiest crops to grow. Caring for her, in fact, is reduced to the necessary minimum. A vegetable rarely suffers from diseases and pests, but nevertheless it is not completely immune from this. To avoid losing a significant part or all of the crop, you need to regularly examine the plantings for suspicious symptoms. And if any are identified, use the recommended folk remedies or chemicals. The best thing is not to forget about preventive measures. As a rule, there are enough of them to avoid infection.