DIY adjustable floors. DIY adjustable floors on logs. Adjustable lags on metal studs

Adjustable flooring is a new technology that will give you the opportunity to reduce your flooring time.

Just like any other technology, it has its pros and cons.

But this is precisely the kind of professionalism of specialists (builders) in order to be able to choose the one that will be truly ideal and optimal among the large number of variations of the flooring device itself.

How does an adjustable floor work?

Mechanism

The completed flooring is installed under wooden logs (if, of course, you are using floorboards), or on a solid OSB base (if you are using soft flooring or laminate) or sheets of so-called plywood.

Important! During the period of the construction of absolutely any floors - the so-called load-bearing surface must be located in a horizontal position, this is mandatory.

Basically, it is incredibly difficult to achieve this result using fixed logs; often you have to use all sorts of pads and wedges to align the spatial position.

These wedges have the ability to creak or bend in the event of improper and inaccurate fixation, or simply later for other reasons to fall out. You cannot fix these problems without dismantling the coverage area, and dismantling itself is associated with huge losses of money and time.

These adjustable floors are perfect for leveling the surface of almost any uneven base. In addition, the alignment mechanism itself will give you the opportunity to adjust the gap between the supporting base and the floor, and this will already make it possible to place various kinds of engineering networks in such areas.

Adjustable floors mainly consist of metal studs, plywood sheets, plastic stud bolts or floor joists. A fairly large number of modifications of regulation systems are being carried out, but such a fundamental difference between them is simply not found.

By rotating the threaded joints, the connection itself runs very smoothly (raising or lowering structural elements), in this way you can set the very base of the floors in the required position as accurately as possible.

There are several types of floors (adjustable) in the world, let's take a closer look at them.

Types of adjustable floors

Adjustable floor with plastic adjustment mechanism

Features (characteristic): Most can be realized assembled with separate kits or lags. The floors are installed from the factory much faster because they have threaded threads in the joists, and therefore there is no need to drill with a hole mark.

The dimensions of the lags themselves are as follows: thirty by fifty millimeters, and the distance between the bolts is exactly forty centimeters. We advise you to install the lags in increments of thirty / forty centimeters, the exact value must be selected taking into account the maximum expected load on the floor itself.

Adjustable floor with metal leveling device

Features (characteristic): For the plastic joints, metal studs with washers and nuts are used. They can withstand heavy loads, but it is quite difficult to work with them.

Adjustable floor on metal corners

Features (characteristic): A plus in these corners is the stability of the lags themselves, you can create very complex floor structures, taking into account the peculiarities of the layout of your rooms. The only drawback is that the installation time increases quite significantly.
Not only logs can be regulated, but also plates.

The second option is used only for laminate flooring and soft flooring. You can apply the second option to almost all types of finished flooring.

With your own hands

You also have the opportunity to make adjustable floors yourself, this option has its advantages. The main ones are quite large savings in money (lower cost), as well as the ability to select the parameters yourself, depending on the specific features of the application.

Also, if you feel like it, you can insulate the floor with adjustable floors, which is considered quite important in conditions of very high prices for the energy carriers themselves.

Installation technology

Adjustable lags on plastic bolts

For a base of a load-bearing nature, a cement-sand or concrete screed, a special set of adjustable joists is used, made directly from the factory. We can tell you right away that this option is considered the most expensive for adjustable floors.

The first step is to measure the room. This is necessary in order to determine how much lag is needed for a given room. If you are going to make floors in the bath, then know that they do not have a huge load, the distance between the lags must be up to forty-five centimeters.

The next step is to bend on the screed, the distance between the lags. For this moment, a rope with blue is used, with the help of which the work on the beating will be done very high quality and, most importantly, quickly.

After that, the third step will be to cut the log to the required length. Basically, the length of the logs from the factory is about four hundred centimeters. You should carefully consider how you need to mark the logs in order to minimize the amount of waste as much as possible.

The distance from the cutting line to the nearest adjusting bolt must be at least one hundred millimeters. If the end is much closer to the above-mentioned mark, then the risks of the formation of various cracks under load appear.

After this comes the fourth step, namely the expansion of the lag around the marked lines. To install, you will need:

Special wrench for screwing in bolts;
Screwdriver;
Hammer;
Chisel;
Doboinik for fixing dowels;
Drill with a perforator.

Then you need to install the first log in a vertical position - just screw the threaded hole into simple plastic bolts. After this, you will need to put the ends of the bolts on the line and then drill a hole in the base for the dowel itself.

The depth of such holes (under the dowel itself) must be about two to three centimeters, while its length should be exceeded. This is due to the hole, since a certain amount of concrete almost always remains in it, but if you do not make a reserve in advance in length, then it will be problematic for you to completely hammer the dowel.

The next step is to install the dowels, but you should not finish them all the way. The dowel must not resist the rotation of the bolts. Using a level that is long enough, set the log to the correct yet neat position. If your lag is already installed, and firmly enough, then just firmly fix the dowel. It is worth continuing to install the logs in turn in places with marks, while controlling the position of the marks with a level.

This can be said to be an installation algorithm offered to people by the manufacturers themselves, while most builders listen and apply such technology, mainly such builders are those who receive their wages every hour, and not by production.

Those builders who earn from the development do it a little differently. To your question "How?" we will tell you. The builders take a simple water level and beat off the so-called zero lag level on the opposite walls (two).

After that, dowels or nails are driven into those sections, everything will be hung from the material from which the wall will be made, after which the ropes are pulled. If the logs need to be connected, then three walls should be taken. The rope will only be tightened when all the lags have already been placed in their fixing areas.

After that, everything goes very quickly and easily. Absolutely every lag is installed along that rope, the main thing is that it should not touch it, it is necessary to constantly check so that the gap between the lag and the rope is as minimal as possible. That's all, in this way you can achieve a very high speed of installation of the adjustable floor, and you can also increase the quality of this floor.

In general, there is a certain direct relationship between the number of measured planes and accuracy. We will explain to you now. There is a fairly high probability that the position of the first lag will deviate from the lowest level by about one millimeter.

This is normal enough by real standards. It was for this purpose that a template was produced - if you need to cut off a sufficiently large number of identical parts, and at the same time the dimensions are not removed from each already finished part in turn. In this case, the rope will act as a template.

The seventh step will be the felling, namely with a wide sharp chisel it will be necessary to cut down the protruding area of the plastic bolt.

Mounting lags on metal plates

The main advantage of these floors is the increased stability of the fastening due to the increased area of the lower stop. There is also a drawback, namely, the terms increase, that is, the inability to continue and generally do the work yourself.

The logs themselves should be fixed to the U-shaped plates using self-cuts, while the process of adjusting the height of the location of the logs themselves must be carried out using a series of holes on both sides of the plate, made in a vertical position.

Installation of logs on iron pins

Adjustable floors of this type can be installed without the help of others, we will tell you specifically about this option. Choose the dimensions of the lag taking into account the characteristics of the floor and the greatest loads. Iron studs with zinc coating, optimal caliber 6 ÷ 8 mm. Studs, nuts and washers are useful for the production of the system.

Step 1... Beat parallel stripes on the supporting base at a distance of 30 ÷ 50 centimeters. The farther the distance, the tighter the lags must be chosen.

Step 2... Calculate according to the number of lags, washers, nuts and studs. The recommended distance between the studs is 30 ÷ 40 cm. Prepare all the materials used, additional components and devices for the manufacture of work.

Step 3... Mark the holes in the lags for the studs, all of them must be located on the symmetry stripes. In the marked places, first drill a through hole Ø6 mm for the pin (if the caliber of the pin is different, then the corresponding hole must be drilled). From the outside of the log, drill a hole for the washer gauge with a feather drill. The abyss of the hole must exceed the required sum of the nut height and the washer thickness by a certain number of millimeters.

There is a 2nd method of marking holes in front of the anchor, but it takes more time, but despite all the above, it excludes the possibility of errors.

Everything is done like this: first you need to outline only the last 2 holes in front of the anchor, screw them into the studs, fix the lag on 2 nuts in a suitable location. Now, during the upcoming marking, the lag will not move anywhere.

In this arrangement, it is permissible to immediately drill holes in front of the anchor to the full depth. The work is completed - the lag is removed, all the pins are screwed into the space.

This function will need to be done with each lag, labor productivity is minimized by 2 times. You yourself must take the final conclusion on the marking technique, taking into account the position of the concrete floor and the experiment of performing a similar family of cases.

Step 5... Screw a nut onto any stud and place a washer. It is better to immediately make your choice with the placement of their location in accordance with the height. Tighten the studs into the anchors firmly.

Step 6... Put the logs on the studs in turn, with a wrench of the required volume by turning the lower nut to the left / right, straighten the condition of the log. Keep in mind that the thread pitch of iron nuts is much smaller than that of plastic nuts.

Step 7. Lags are exposed - it is allowed to start fixing them. Use a washer and nut, insert them into the top hole.

Important! Tighten the top nut with great effort, even a slight decrease can cause nasty squeaks when walking on the floor.

Step 8... Cut off the protruding ends of the studs with a grinder. Be careful with the logs, do not damage the unity of the lumber with the saw blade.

Installation of adjustable floors with straightening board

Rough flooring is only suitable for laminate or soft flooring. For installation, you need to purchase a set of industrial parts.

Step 1... Make a mark on the plywood sheet where the bushings will be installed, drill the holes of this cross-section. The bushings must be no more than 30 cm. Drill the holes vertically, if the boundaries are located before the roll, then it will be necessary to redo them, which will significantly take time and increase the installation time of the adjustable floor.

Step 2... Insert the threaded bushings into the holes on the bottom side, fix them with small self-tapping screws; during the adjustment of the floor height, they do not have to turn in any way. Manufacturers predict 4 places for fixing the bushings, so much is not necessary at all, it is enough to fix it with 2 self-tapping screws.

Step 3... Arrange the markings on the floor, make sure that the sheets do not have to be "cut" into small pieces. It is better to depict it on paper, think over a number of varieties and only later will it be possible to choose the best one of them.

Step 4... Screw in all the plastic bolts, turn the plywood sheet to the desired state. Tighten the bolts the same number of turns. After installing the main plywood sheet, pay attention to the level at which the bolts are placed. In the next sheet of plywood, try to screw the bolts in the same location.

Step 5... When using a special wrench, screw in / unscrew the bolts until the plywood sheet is in any way in a horizontal position at the desired height. Continuously check its condition with a level in accordance with several planes.

It should be borne in mind that the fasteners to the concrete base are not strengthened in any way, the flooring comes out "floating". This should be taken as an interest when making the conclusion of the furnishing of floor coverings in any given room.

Step 6... After installing the outermost plywood sheet, retest the condition of the subfloor. Do not forget that the regulation characteristics do not exceed 2 ÷ 3 cm in any way. If the concrete base has very large bulges, then it will be necessary to level it again.

Adjustable log supports are one of the easiest ways to level a subfloor. Thanks to this technology, it is possible to avoid "wet" works associated with the pouring of the screed. This allows the finishing coat to be laid on the sub-floor immediately after the installation of wooden lathing from logs and chipboards. The article will consider the main types of supports suitable for adjusting the height of floor beams, as well as the features of their application.

Design features of adjustable lags

To level the subfloor, not so long ago they began to use not only screeds, but also logs on adjustable supports. What is the principle of this design? Anchoring devices with a screw mechanism are attached to the base material, which can be adjusted in height. The floor beams are then positioned so that the timber battens are as horizontal as possible.

In the process of leveling the floors, supports of various types of construction and material can be used. They can be attached to the following types of bases:

wooden beams;
concrete plates;
cement screeds;
reinforced concrete monolith.

Do-it-yourself installation of such systems is undesirable, since it implies precise height adjustment of the beams. A similar effect can only be achieved with the help of professional devices. The unevenness of the floor leads to a violation of the geometry of the finish coating, which is fraught with its deformation.

Benefits of adjustable floors

Compared to other methods of leveling floors, joists, which can be varied in height, have a number of advantages, namely:

This technology eliminates the need for "wet" technical processes associated with the pouring of self-leveling and cement-sand screeds;
Wooden structures weigh less in comparison with concrete screeds, therefore they can be installed on bases with low bearing capacity;
After preparing the floors using this technology, almost any type of topcoat can be put on the rough base;
The space under the joists, formed by screw anchors, ensures sufficient ventilation of the floor, which prevents the accumulation of condensation;
Do-it-yourself installation of adjustable supports is done in just a few days. While any cement screed dries for at least 3 weeks;
The space under the floor can be used for laying the necessary communications;
In the process of leveling the floors, the level of the base can be raised by 15-20 cm if necessary;
Finishing materials can be laid without installing any additional substrates;
An air gap under the joists provides additional thermal and waterproofing of the base.

Types of adjustable structures

When arranging the floor with your own hands, you can use several different structures with adjustable logs. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. The most popular "jacking" systems include:

Set of threaded plastic uprights and concrete fasteners. In this case, a thread is cut into the beams with your own hands, into which hollow racks are inserted. If necessary, they can be screwed in to the desired depth;
A set of fasteners for concrete and plastic sleeves. Unlike the previous design, ready-made bushings with an internal, not an external thread, which are additionally fixed with self-tapping screws, are mounted in through holes in the beams;
A set of logs, bushings and bolt-posts. In this system, for leveling the floors, the bolts have through cone-shaped holes, into which self-tapping screws or other fasteners are inserted to securely connect to the concrete.

To buy a quality kit, first of all, you need to check the quality of the supports themselves. The threads on them must be smooth without any damage. Otherwise, it will not be possible to set the desired log height, which is fraught with distortions.

Plastic metal supports

Arrangement of the sub-floor using "jacking" systems involves the use of special threaded supports. They are conventionally divided into two broad categories:

Metallic. They are made of galvanized steel, therefore they practically do not corrode. Such anchoring devices are capable of withstanding very heavy loads and are therefore used in the arrangement of commercial premises. The only but significant drawback of such supports is “assistance” in the destruction of the concrete base. Over time, metal pins "dig" into the base, which leads to its cracking;
Plastic. Unlike metal racks, they are less durable, but they are not at all susceptible to moisture. In the case of installing stud bolts with a small pitch, they can withstand loads of more than 300 kg per m2 of coverage. Plastic supports practically do not create loads on concrete floors and therefore do not contribute to their destruction.

Types of supports by type of structure

What types of floor leveling racks are best to use? When arranging "jacking" wooden battens, various types of anchoring devices can be used, namely:

Hairpins. In the process of finishing the subfloor, threaded studs are attached to the base. On them are fixed two adjustable "plates", between which there is a beam. By rotating the lower plate, you can adjust the height of the beam, and the upper one is fixed to make the structure more rigid;
Corners. Metal U-shaped profiles are initially fixed with the base down on the concrete floor. Each side of the corner contains two or three rows of through holes spaced from each other with a small pitch. After setting the required level, the lags are fixed in the corners at the required height;
Racks with automatic height adjustment. The self-adjusting plastic stands have a jacking mechanism. Thanks to them, it is possible to carry out automatic correction of the lag in height with a slope from 0 to 5 degrees.

Prices for professional supports

Manufacturers offer a lot of adjustable racks of various types. And it is not always clear why the price of a particular model of supports is formed, when visually some of them are very similar. To buy really high quality anchor devices, consider the differences between the budget and professional series products:

Budgetary supports. The price of this series of screw anchors ranges from $ 1 to $ 3 per piece. The low cost is due to the not the best quality of the material from which the bolts are made, as well as their fragility;
Professional supports. Visually, professional screw racks are similar to budget ones, but they are made of special plastic. It has thermal and frost resistance, as well as greater strength. Some of them are equipped with a self-leveling system, so that the floor leveling procedure takes a minimum of time. The price of professional supports ranges from $ 4 to $ 8 per piece.

How to make screw supports?

There is no need to buy expensive stud bolts to equip floors with adjustable beams. Knowing already some of the features of the system, which were considered above, it will not be difficult to make such devices yourself. To assemble anchors with adjustment you will need:

nuts;
metal plates;
hairpins;
drop-in anchors;
washers.

Assembling the floor leveling screw support:

The first step is to fix the metal plate on the hairpin using a powerful bolt and a nut of a suitable size;
With the help of a nut, the beams will be adjusted in height in the future;
After adjustment, the lags are fixed with another nut;
So that the top nut does not interfere with the process of laying the topcoat, grooves are made on the wooden beams to completely mask it.

The technology of adjustable floors has appeared on the market relatively recently, but has already gained popularity among builders, and good reviews from users. Why? The answer is simple - it has a lot of advantages. Among them are the following:

high speed of flooring. One person can design up to 20 sq. in a day;
achieving the desired floor height without additional costs for materials;
the ability to create a multi-level structure;
almost perfect alignment accuracy. The permissible deviation is 1 mm. by 1 rm floor;
reducing the load on the supporting structure. At the same time, the permissible load on the logs is up to three tons. This significantly exceeds the possible load not only in residential, but also in industrial premises;
elimination of the need to carry out a "wet" screed;
good ventilation and sound insulation characteristics of the floor;
opportunity to equip underfloor heating under plywood;
environmentally friendly, time-tested materials;
the ability to hide the wiring of electrical networks, hide pipes and at the same time provide free access to them if necessary.

In fairness, we note and limitations:

the possibility of a squeak. In the event that construction debris has fallen into the attachment points. It, even at the installation stage, must be removed with a vacuum cleaner. It should be borne in mind that wood is a "living" material, it deforms over time. So get ready;
the possibility of "sounding" the floor. If the floor is raised too high, the void underneath will accompany you with a booming echo with every step. This disadvantage can be easily eliminated by using heat-insulating materials.

However, as you can see, the advantages of an adjustable floor are much greater and it is quite easy to get them. The technology is so affordable that it is adjustable floor can do it yourself and without professional training. And this instruction, we hope it will help you with this.

Before starting work, you need to decide on the structure of the floor, as well as prepare the tools and materials. But first things first:

Design

floors adjustable over slabs. Provide lifting heights up to 5 cm;
floors adjustable by lags. Provides lifting heights over 5 cm.

In practice, both are used. But the first became very popular. Nevertheless, despite the different permissible lifting heights, the technology of their construction does not differ significantly.

Tool

The minimum tool that you will need to work on the construction of an adjustable floor consists of:

puncher;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
circular saws;
jigsaw;
chisels;
building level;
roulette;
consumables such as drills, discs, jigsaw files, drills.

Material

The amount of material depends on the size of the floor. But, for understanding, we will give a calculation of the amount of materials for 5 sq.

For slab-adjustable floors you will need:

plywood - 5 or 10 sq. Depends on the required number of flooring layers;
self-tapping screw 3.5x35 - 150 pcs. For fastening layers of plywood to each other;
threaded bushings - at least 20 pieces. Will play the role of wooden logs;
dowel screw 6x60 - 35 pcs. For fixing the logs to the concrete base.

To arrange floors on logs, you will need: timber, section 45x45 - 14 m.p .;

plywood or OSB on the floor - 5 sq. or 10 sq. - if double decking is planned. When calculating plywood, add 5% on waste. Then, round off the amount of material to whole sheets;
dowel screw 6x60 - 35 pcs;
wear-resistant polymer bolt 100 or 150 mm - 20 pcs. To adjust the height of the surface;
self-tapping screw 3.5x45 - 150 pcs. For laying the first layer of plywood on logs;
self-tapping screw 3.5x35 - 150 pcs. For laying the second layer of plywood on logs;

Features of the choice of timber

Dried timber made of pine wood can be used as a lag.

Features of the choice of material

An important point is to choose the right material. Professionals recommend giving preference to plywood. This option can provide simultaneous floor insulation with plywood... To form one layer - the sheet thickness must be at least 18 mm. If there are two layers, it is permissible to use sheets with a thickness of at least 12 mm.

In work, it is permissible to use plywood grade 3/4. But the requirements for moisture resistance must be met. Permissible humidity not more than 12%. This is achieved by using FSF or FC plywood.

Installation technology

Consider two options

Option 1 - Slab-adjustable floors

Such a floor is equipped if the surface is characterized by slight deviations from the level. And the ceiling of the room is low. Those. there is a need to save every centimeter of height.

The installation process in this case is simple and consists of the following steps:

1. Cut plywood sheets into required pieces. Spread them out on the floor and mark them. In order to know exactly where which sheet will be located in the future.

2. Holes of the required diameter are drilled in the plywood sheets. Bushings are inserted into them.

3. Sheets of the first level are laid on the floor surface

4. The sheets are fastened to the floor using dowels.

5. Using a key, the floor height is adjusted by twisting the threaded bushings.

6. Be sure to use the building level.

7. All protruding parts (threaded bushings) must be cut off.

8. If a second layer of plywood is provided, it is laid on the first one and fixed with self-tapping screws.

When laying the second layer, it is important to follow the sequence in which the sheets are applied. And ensure there is no construction debris in between. To do this, the surface must be vacuumed.

The seams of the previous layer should not coincide with the seams of the next one. Figuratively speaking, they should be located like bricks, overlapping each other.

9. The floor covering is being installed.

Option 2 - Lag-adjustable floors

1. Drill holes in the log. The distance between them should be within 300-450 mm. The higher the load is planned on the floor, the more often the logs have to be drilled.

2. Arrangement of the lag begins from the ends, which are attached to the floor. Then the middle of the bar is attached. It is important not to fully tighten the bolts right away to be able to adjust them.

Note the regulating device can be made by yourself. To do this, you will need:

metal plate;
hairpin;
drop-in anchor;
two nuts and washers;

3. Lags are set by level.

4. The floor height is adjusted by tightening the bolts.

5. Protruding bolt heads are removed with a chisel.

6. Plywood sheets are attached to the logs. The mounting method is similar to that described in the first version of the adjustable floor arrangement.

Conclusion

This approach to flooring is becoming more and more popular. This is due to the ease of installation, the relative cheapness of materials, the ability to do everything quickly and without the involvement of expensive professionals.

2,000 rubles

750 rbl

1 150 rub

1 250 rub

2,000 rubles

2 200 rubles

RUB 1,800

RUB 6,000

260 rbl

1 140 rub

1 500 rub 1 900 rub

The device of a wooden floor on logs is the same, long-forgotten old technology, which was revived, like Phoenix, and acquired the outlines of a new, advanced. Engineering achievements contributed to the return of the idea: concrete slabs and modern methods of manufacturing hardware.

Wood floors: advantages and disadvantages

The traditional laying of the floor was based on the following operations: in the house, logs were laid along the base every meter, to which the boardwalk was attached. The advantages of floors on logs in front of concrete screeds that have come to replace them are undeniable:

Natural wood flooring is warm. This is known to those residents of old buildings, whom households often reproach for the unforgivable sin - the habit of walking around the apartment barefoot.
Its surface can withstand significant loads, impacts, repairs, and restructuring. At the same time, it does not chip off, does not crack, nothing falls from it;
In most cases, coverings laid decades ago are still alive. They were ennobled, covered with parquet and carpet on top, but the natural basis was preserved;
The price of the material - wood - is relatively low: by the middle of the last century, this material completely replaced clay coatings.

The lack of technology was significant. This is the laboriousness of installation and, accordingly, its cost. The difficulty was in leveling the plane of the board. Finding adjustable supports (brackets) for the beams was not easy, it was even more difficult, almost impossible, to fix them: the ground was unreliable, and there was nothing to break through the concrete (already existed).

Preparation for work

It is required to find a solution to the problem:

The floor should be wooden, fixed on logs;
The bases for the plank flooring device must be adjustable.

At the same time, the laboriousness of the installation of the lag should be such that the wooden flooring in the house can be made by one master (at most two) in a couple of days. There are such solutions. Their price corresponds to the average cost of flooring. Installation is so simple that the work can be done by one person. At the same time, the reliability of the fastening remains one hundred percent.

The principle of installing floors on adjustable joists

Modern concrete structures, in which slabs serve as a rough base, have made it possible to return to an environmentally friendly, reliable, warm wooden floor on logs. Due to the widespread use of power tools, the development of technology, a wide selection of hardware, it is possible to lay the flooring in the house on adjustable joists.

There are many options for how to install and how much to pay: beams, for example, are mounted on adjustable prefabricated anchors, the price of which is 3-6.5 USD a piece. You can buy carpentry corners (which is cheaper) and install the floor in the apartment yourself. You can invite a specialized team: the estimated installation price will be 19-20 USD. for 1 m 2.

An innovative way

The technology is patented using plastic threaded sleeves and dowels. The sequence of work is as follows:

Through holes are drilled in wooden beams;
They are screwed into threaded polymer pins-sleeves. In the future, these fingers will serve as support legs;
The beams are installed in their proper places;
The bottom part of the sleeve is attached to the concrete base with a dowel. The mountings should be located exactly in the center of the sleeves, allowing them to rotate around the axis;
Now the sleeve serves as a worm - its rotation leads to the movement of the beams in height;
Using the spirit level, all the bars are brought to one level;
The liner shank remaining on top is cut off with a chisel;
After completing the leveling, planks, plywood or other covering are laid.

A similar technology is used to lay plywood without boards. The base device is performed as follows:

Support sleeve-brackets with an internal thread are selected. Through holes are drilled in plywood with a pen at the places where the supports are installed;
The bushings are inserted into the holes and fixed on the sheets with self-tapping screws;
Polymer sleeves are screwed into the resulting slots.

Further actions are similar to the previous technology. The manufacturer offers a video that can be viewed at the end of the article.

The costs are formed on the basis of how many and what kits will be used. The price of one set of four logs with bolts, set by the manufacturer, depends on the length of the timber: 1000 mm costs $ 20, 2000 mm - $ 33, and 3000 mm - $ 45.

Available option: brackets

In addition to polymer sleeves, adjustable lags in the house are mounted on U-shaped racks. Each stand-bracket on the side surface has a pair of holes located at different levels with a pitch of 5 mm. If you modify the brackets yourself, then you can provide as many levels as the master considers necessary. The device of a wooden floor is performed as follows:

Through each meter, the axes are marked along which the beams will be laid;
U-shaped fasteners are installed on the lines and screwed to a concrete slab;
The degree of deviation from the horizontal of the rough base is measured, the points of the minimum and maximum height are determined;
Calculate the height of the mid-level attachment;
The extreme beams are installed and their horizon is brought to a given level;
They are installing all intermediate bars, checking their level along the extreme lags.

At the end of the work on the installation of the beams, the extra "ears" of the racks are cut off and the flooring is installed - boards, other slabs.

Floors on furniture stud supports

Another way of laying logs on adjustable supports is to use a furniture stud, double-sided - with a metric and single-start thread. They have been used for a long time for attaching hinged elements to concrete, brick, wooden surfaces. To lay a wooden floor on logs, studs with a cross section of 8-10 mm are suitable.

The bars must be prepared in advance. To do this, every 30 cm drilled into them:

Holes corresponding to the section of the studs;
Coaxial half-holes with a diameter of 20-25 mm and a depth of 20 mm - for screwed nuts.

The device of floors in the house is performed as follows:

Bars are laid in increments of 1 meter;
Holes are drilled in the concrete base to match the holes in the beams;
Install polymer dowels;
Screw in the studs.

The next step is to prepare the support brackets: two nuts are screwed onto the studs and washers are put on, the outer diameter of which exceeds 30 mm. Install the beams so that they rest on the washers; one more nut is baited from above. The heights are leveled: the level is set with one lower nut, the second - with a locking nut - is fixed. The installation of the subfloor is completed with the operation of tightening the upper nuts. With the help of a grinder, they cut off the protruding ends of the studs and prepare the flooring - boards, plywood, OSB.

The price of the work is minimal: you can do it yourself. The cost of hardware matters, but they are considered consumables. Compared to the cost of the main raw material, this value can be neglected.

We make an adjustable floor on logs instead of a concrete screed

Concrete screed by its structure does not allow to form a surface that would be sufficiently flat, and now more and more often, instead of it, mixtures of the "Betonit" type or technology are used. A good alternative to all these "wet", and therefore labor-intensive and dirty technologies, is the floor on adjustable logs.

In these designs there are special adjustable supports for the lags in the form of plastic bolt-pillars. Moreover, the adjustable lags can be raised or lowered along the thread of these bolt-pillars and thus they can be easily set in level, which guarantees a perfectly flat base for the finishing ones, which means that there is no squeak of floors.

Benefits of an adjustable floor on logs

Compared to leveling with a concrete screed, adjustable joists offer the following advantages:

excludes wet and dirty technical processes;
a wide range of floor lifting levels from 5 to 15 cm and higher is provided without any additional material and labor costs;
saving money when raising the floor over 7 cm;
the speed of the installation process (100 m 2 in two days);
guarantee of high leveling accuracy;
increased heat and sound insulation;
placement of all types of communications in an underground space, which makes it easier to access them during repair or replacement;
the lightness of the structure, which makes it indispensable in houses where a large load on the floors is technologically unacceptable.

The following design options for adjustable lags are possible.

Floor installation on adjustable joists (video)

The main stages of installation of an adjustable floor on logs

Preparatory work

The room in which it is planned to carry out work on the installation of adjustable lags is measured. Based on the measurements, the amount of timber for the logs is calculated with a margin for cutting, bolts for mounting and dowel-nails for attaching them to concrete.
The level of the floor slab is checked and the final floor level is set taking into account the height of the flooring (plywood, OSB) and the height of the topcoat.
Through holes are drilled in the logs with the required pitch with a feather drill, then, if you do not have threaded bushings, a thread is cut in the holes with a tap. If you purchased ready-made plastic bushings, then they are inserted into smooth holes and fastened to the lags with self-tapping screws.
Using a hex key, the bolts are screwed into the holes of the log - the extreme screws in each log are screwed in completely, and the middle ones - to a small depth.

Important! If the surface of the floor slab under the upright bolt is very uneven, then it should be leveled with a chisel. The stud bolts must be firmly attached to the concrete. The minimum distance between the floor slab and the joists should be 10 mm.

Installation lag

First, logs are installed along the perimeter of the room with an offset of 10-70 mm from the walls, the distance between the wall and the ends of the log is 10-30 mm. When choosing a step between the lags, one should take into account the dimensions of the sheets (slabs) of the flooring. The edges of the flooring slabs should rest on the joists and end near their central axes. The standard size of the step between the lags is 400-600 mm, however, in order to strengthen the structure, this step can be reduced to 300 mm. It is allowed to install lag trims with support on two bolt-posts.
The first in each lag are the extreme bolts-pillars. They are screwed into the log to the required depth, controlling the preliminary position of the log according to the level, after which all the rest of the rack bolts are lowered to the level of the plate.
After that, a thin drill is inserted into all the holes of the bolt-racks and holes are marked in the concrete for the dowel-nails.
The lag is removed and the marked holes are drilled in the concrete. The lag is again installed, a dowel-nail is inserted into each bolt-stand, which goes down along the tapered hole and falls exactly into the hole drilled in the concrete.
Next, the dowel-nails are slightly recessed in the 2 extreme bolts-uprights with the help of a doboiner. The lag is set to the required height by rotating the two extreme bolt-pillars with a hexagon, controlling the process by level.
Finally, the extreme dowel-nails are hammered into the concrete. Then the remaining bolt-pillars are screwed into the logs until they stop on the plate, the dowel-nails are sunk and hammered in each bolt-rack.

With a chisel, using a hammer, the protruding ends of the bolts are cut off from the upper plane of the log. Check the rigidity of fastening the bolts-pillars to the floor slab by pressing on each lag and trying to tear it off (lateral loosening is prohibited).

If some bolt-post is not well fixed to the floor slab, it is unscrewed. Remove the dowel-nail and increase the depth of the hole in the concrete. The holes are dedusted and the stud bolt is reinstalled.

If the required rigidity of fastening to the base is not achieved, then use another fastener. For example, in the form of an RDK - a nylon expansion dowel with a screw. Screws in RDK-dowels are screwed with a long bit with a screwdriver or drill. The screw must not be under-tightened or turned in the dowel thread.

Floor installation on adjustable joists (video)

Adjustable lags on metal studs

Consider how you can arrange adjustable logs from materials that can be purchased at any building materials store.

Regular steel studs can be used as adjustable supports for the joists. The design of such adjustable lag on the hairpins is as follows.

On the logs, a typical dry planed beam with a section of 50x50 mm is taken. Its adjustable support contains an M 6 stud, two nuts, two washers and an anchor sleeve.
A hole is drilled in the concrete slab, an anchor sleeve is hammered into it onto the spacer, into which a hairpin is screwed.
The lower (under the lag) nut with a washer is screwed onto the stud. A hole is drilled in the log with a zinc plating on top.
The lag is put on the stud, so that the nut with the washer are on its bottom side. By turning this nut, you can adjust the position of the log. The second nut (top) is necessary to fix the log at the set level.

As you can see, the modern construction industry offers ever new alternatives to traditional construction technologies. Adjustable is a prime example of such an alternative, making it easier and cheaper to install and repair floors.