The walls have started to crumble, the plaster is falling off in pieces - all this can be repaired!
Let's split the process into two stages. Let's start with the preparation for the renovation of the walls, and the renovation work itself.
First step. Let's remove the damaged sections of the walls. As a tool, you can take: a hammer, an ax, a scraper or an electric hammer drill.
The preparation process itself is very dusty, so it is worth wearing dust protection equipment. Overalls do not hurt either, especially good gloves.
Removing stucco that has passed its useful life should be done — by banging slightly against the wall. Cases — when neighboring areas disappear by themselves, cannot be avoided in any way. Therefore, we carry out work on an easy principle - what has disappeared is gone. You shouldn't feel sorry for the old plaster.
Having knocked off all the defects of the walls, you can start priming the walls with a special compound, which can be bought at any hardware store.
To carry out the primer, you need to use special tools, a roller or brush is best suited. It is necessary to saturate the walls thoroughly, allowing the composition to be well absorbed into the base, and to be fixed on the wall. After finishing the priming process, let the treated walls dry.
The preparation process is complete, you can proceed to the next stage of wall repair.
Second phase. This stage is carried out by sealing the defects of the old plaster, special mixtures, solutions.
Knowing the thickness or volume of the damaged sections of the walls can determine which mixture is best suited. In the hardware store, sellers will hold a small consultation on the selection of the right material for repair.
Mortars for wall repairs must be applied with narrow-purpose tools. Suitable for this stage of work, such types of tools: spatula, semi-trowel, trowel, rule.
The prepared mixture is applied in two or three stages, each stage includes complete drying of the mortar, and the application of a mesh for reinforcement. Reinforcing the walls is necessary to obtain a further good result.
The last process of wall repair will be sanding of the applied mortar in the damaged areas of the walls. We need: sandpaper or abrasive mesh. Grinding the walls, a necessary step in completing the damage repair. Not always, it turns out to cover up exactly - the sections of the walls being repaired, this requires grinding.
Well, by visiting the site http://vannaya-plus.ru/odna_stat.php?id\u003d288 you will find TOP-7 remedies for urinary stones in the toilet. Only there is everything to get rid of urinary stones in your toilet without any problems.
American Red Oak (Du Roi) Family: Beech Other names: northern red oak (Canada and the USA); southern red oak, Spanish oak (USA); swamp oak red, cherry oak (USA); red Shumard oak (USA). Distribution: Eastern Canada and USA American Red Oak - description of the wood The biscuit-pink core reminds other oaks. The grain is straight and coarse. The southern oak grows ...
Niato (Palaquium maingayi) Family: Sapotovye Other names: njatu (Indonesia); Padang (United Kingdom) Distribution: Asia Minor and Southeast Asia Description of Niato Wood Core color varies by species, but is generally pale pink to reddish brown, sometimes with darker stripes. The grain is straight or wavy and the texture is moderately fine. Variable weight, but on average 620-720 kg / m3; specific…
The hotel company pays great attention to security issues. Guests should be sure of the safety of their belongings in order to use the services of the establishment without fear. Electronic locks for hotels have replaced mechanical systems that are easy to break. They are technologically advanced locking devices that not only provide a high level of security, but also perform auxiliary functions. Equipment of the enterprise ...
We all know what swing doors are. This is not surprising at all, since they have been used for a long time in many residential premises, offices, shops, etc. High sound insulation and reliable construction make such doors very popular in the market. So the swing door system is perhaps the most common due to its obvious and numerous advantages. On the website raumplus.ua you will find ...
Niove (Staudtia Conditionitata) Family: Muscataceae Other names: Kamashi, Nkafi (Zaire); Oropa (Nigeria); ekop (Cameroon); menga-menga (Angola) Distribution: Tropical West Africa, Cameroon, Gabon and Zaire Description of Niove Wood Red-brown to orange wood with darker brown color veins. The grain is straight with a very fine texture. The surface is slightly shiny and sometimes oily. Weight 830 kg / m3; specific gravity…
A hole appears.
It can be large or small - a piece of plaster falls off, a hole is made that becomes through, the hole is mistakenly drilled with a puncher in the wrong place.
After that, patching up a hole in the wall is a headache and the responsibility of either the owners or the repairmen.
They can be categorized by size - large and small.
Large holes will require significant volume.
Most likely, in this case, you will have to finish the entire surface of the wall to hide it again.
It is much easier to close a hole in a small wall.
Here you can limit yourself to finishing works on a local scale.
For large holes it is necessary to fill the hole with stone materials.
How to fix a hole in this type of wall? Best of all with what the wall was made of before. For example, brickwork is suitable for a brick wall, for aerated concrete wall you can take it. For a tongue-and-groove wall, take a piece of a tongue-and-groove block. Take a brick for a concrete wall.
The material for laying into the hole is selected taking into account the material from which the masonry is being made. For brick and aerated concrete, you can take a cement mortar and put a piece that closes the hole on it.
For a tongue-and-groove, be sure to take a plaster masonry mortar. Be careful - it hardens quickly! You should not take rotband and other gypsum plasters for this purpose - the adhesion will be fragile. But fine-grained gypsum putties, such as fugenfüller, can be taken - they adhere well to the tongue-and-groove block. In this case, it is advisable not to make a large layer thickness.
Before you start filling the hole, try to even out the edges, especially the bottom. This will avoid problems with. You can level it with a chisel or puncher. Be careful not to gouge the wall completely or break anything too much. It is also desirable to trim the edges. It is convenient to fit a piece of a block or brick under a hole using an oven hammer, making light blows and breaking off small pieces.
If it is a plasterboard wall, such as a multi-layer partition, screw a piece of plasterboard from the inside of the main one. This is done like this:
- Cut a piece of drywall, larger than the hole, 3-4 centimeters in all directions, then cut it in half.
- The door handle is screwed onto the front side of one cut out piece.
- The sheet is pushed through the main lining and screwed with self-tapping screws from the outside. The handle is unscrewed.
- The second half is also screwed on, joining an even seam approximately in the middle of the hole.
After the hole in the wall is sealed, the masonry has dried and finally set, plastering work is carried out.
How to repair loose plaster
Small-scale plastering work will have to be carried out both after the stone work to seal the holes, and after the plaster has fallen off from a small one.
The easiest way to do this is to use fast-setting gypsum plasters.
These compositions allow you to immediately apply a large layer, especially on a local area, and not wait long for the plaster to set.
What is the best way to seal a hole in the wall with plaster compounds?
The most common such composition is a rotband. The time of its complete setting is about three hours, complete drying is about a week (depending on the humidity in the room).
Plasters from other manufacturers can be used. It is better not to use pure alabaster - it gives unpredictable adhesion to the surface and then it is not known how it will fall on a large alabaster area.
Before sealing the hole, it is cleaned. Take out all the pieces that fall off and move, sweep the dust with a brush. The surface is moistened, primed with compounds intended for plastering work. After that, a layer of plaster is applied.
It is more convenient to do this when filling holes with a small dozen spatula. Apply until the entire surface is filled to the plane of the wall. After that, the layer, while it has not yet set, is carefully cut off according to the rule flush with the main wall.
Acrylic sealant is good because almost any paint perfectly fits on it, is glued.
How to make a defect invisible
For small defects that have been sealed with a sealant, you can make them invisible with a small brush and paint.
Simply paint over the white sealant at the edge of the resulting hole with a brush.
It is advisable to choose the paint by color, but if it does not match too much, it does not matter.
In a small area, this will not be very noticeable.
For larger defects, a full finish is made.
If the defect is on the wallpaper, it is necessary to putty the defect with alignment along the rest of the wall, and then replace the sheet by carefully cutting it along the adjacent wallpaper. If there is a defect on the painted wall, it is putty and painted over.
In this case, you need to very accurately select the color of the paint to match the main color. If on a tile, put several tiles at the site of the defect. In the case when it is not possible to hide the defect, the entire outer wall is re-finished.
How and what to repair the strobes - presented in the video:
- a thing is not eternal. The owners of houses and apartments face a problem when it begins to crack or fall off in places. What to do? We will consider the reasons for this phenomenon, as well as how to repair the plaster of walls in separate places and the technology of surface restoration.
Surface defects, causes and method of restoration
There are a number of defects that are formed when the proportions of the components of the composition are violated, or the technology of its application. The list is as follows:
- Surface lumps and swelling.
- Sedimentary cracks.
- Fresh plaster is peeling off the wall.
- Cracking along the entire depth of the solution.
- Efflorescences, spots and stripes appear on the wall after the plaster layer has dried.
What is the cause of these defects? Swelling and bumps can appear if the limestone composition is unstable and has unqualified particles. How do you repair lime plaster in this case? It is necessary to cure the plaster until the lime is completely extinguished. Defects are opened, moistened abundantly with water and filled with plaster mortar. It remains to wipe the surface.
Sedimentary cracks are formed with poor mixing of the composition and with an excess of binder. The exact proportions and dosage in accordance with the packaging will help to solve the problem. It remains to mix the plaster thoroughly and level the surface.
When the substrate has not been prepared, cleaned, rough, too dry and dusty, fresh plaster can flake off when sprinkled. To solve it, you need to suspend work and start preparing the surface. The application technology is as follows: notches are made on the surface for better adhesion (or shingles are made), the wall is cleaned of dust and dirt. In addition, it is moistened with water. Then the mixture will not flake off, and the repair of plaster and surfaces inside the building will not be needed for a long time.
If the problem lies in cracks throughout the thickness of the plaster layer, then there is exactly one reason - there is no reinforcing mesh between the wall and the plaster. The base material is not rigid and is not reinforced with anything. The technology for applying the mixture is that the subsequent finishing layer should be less durable than the previous one, that is, it contains less binder. So that the intermediate layers do not dry out, they need to be moistened with water and reinforced with a mesh.
The last defect is spots and stripes. They most often appear on the outside walls. This could be due to a very damp or wet surface. Especially when the plaster is applied after rain. The solution is to process the dried walls, to make waterproofing so that moisture does not pull up from the ground. Local repair of plastered walls is performed differently. The technology is simple, but it requires careful consideration.
Step-by-step instructions for eliminating defects
Do-it-yourself repairs to a wall with loose pieces of plaster. The work is simple. You just need to follow the instructions. Alternatively, you can completely remove the layer and apply a new one. But it is more profitable to plaster the damaged areas. It all starts with an inspection. It is important to identify areas that need repairs. A wooden mallet is required. We'll have to lightly tap the wall. If a dull sound is heard, then the composition has departed.
- After the examination, the old plaster must be removed. We do not touch the places where it holds well.
- Further, the seams are cleaned, if it is brickwork. The surface is cleaned of debris and dust.
- A primer is applied to the wall. It is needed for better grip.
- After the surface has dried, the wall is slightly moistened and the solution is applied. If most of the wall has peeled off, then you will have to use beacons and a rule. Only in this way will the wall surface be perfectly flat.
- For minor damage, plaster is removed in the form of a square or rectangle. The site is processed according to the method described earlier, and the cavity is filled with the prepared composition. It is important to stick to the proportions so that the mixture has the correct consistency.
- Another restoration option is restoration with corks. In the right places, a hole is drilled to the base, primed, filled with mortar and plastered.
Note! For wooden walls, use a limestone mortar. However, it is not suitable for wet surfaces. Better to resort to a cement mixture. The corners are recommended to be treated with gypsum plaster, as it sets faster.
Restoration work
Repairing plaster also involves removing stains from the wall surface. They appear during operation and can be from grease, soot or rust. It also happens that the spots were formed before finishing work. In this case, you will have to solve this problem before you start gluing wallpaper or laying tiles. The restoration work is as follows:
Advice! Whatever surface you are cleaning, it is important to first clean it of dirt and dust. Only after that other manipulations are performed.
The restoration of the surface under the tiles requires special attention. The procedure is as follows:
- using a rubber mallet, the wall surface is tapped. This is the only way to determine a peeled or poorly fixed area;
- when the site is found, you need to knock harder so that the tile falls off. If it is not removed in this way, then you will have to act radically - to break it. The process requires accuracy: the tile is broken from the center so that the adjacent one is not damaged;
- if after removal a solid layer of plaster remains, then it is not necessary to knock it down. The new tiles should be glued more securely using special glue;
- when the plaster falls off, the place is cleaned, primed and plastered again. After drying, a new tile is glued.
Removing cracks
Removing on the surface is much easier. In this case, wall plaster repair consists of two stages: surface preparation and plastering. To begin with, a wall with cracks is cleaned of old cladding material and dirt. After that, a primer is applied to the surface. When it dries, you can start stripping to give the wall a smooth finish.
Section of a wall reinforced with mesh Then the plaster is mixed and applied to the surface with a thin layer. The composition is leveled with a spatula. In the presence of large cracks, it is better to strengthen the structure with a reinforcing mesh. With it, the plaster layer will be much stronger and will not crack.
Conclusion
Peeling plaster is a small problem that can be solved by hand. No need to redo all the work. It is worth carrying out restoration work, which will take a maximum of one day, plaster mix, primer and trowel with the rule. Even with cosmetic repairs, it is recommended to remove the old solution so that it does not fall off along with the finish during operation. Stains and cracks also need repair. Then you can be sure that the finish will last for many more years.
Plastering is one of the oldest and most reliable ways to level walls. In addition, the plaster makes the surfaces more durable. Although plastered surfaces last a very long time, they also need repair, as cracks appear on them over time. In addition, many factors affect the condition of the plaster - from the level of humidity in the room to the degree of exposure to mechanical stress on the surface (the plaster coating breaks down faster in window and door openings). In addition, frequent plaster repairs are inevitable where a poor-quality mortar was used or the walls were not carefully prepared for work. The tips below will help you avoid mistakes when renovating interior walls. By following the recommendations, you can forget about the frequent repair of partitions in the apartment. In addition, they will become a reliable base for any finishing material.
From time to time, the walls finished with plaster need to be repaired, as they may become unusable due to dampness in the room or poor-quality mortar.
How to prepare walls for renovation?
Before renovation, you need to remove the old layer of cracked and swollen plaster.
A complete replacement of plaster might seem like a radical way to repair walls inside a building, but such an operation would hardly look reasonable if the walls look good overall. Re-plastering may be necessary before laying tiles on surfaces that have been previously painted, for example. But more on that later. In the meantime, if you only plan to slightly update the partitions before wallpapering or re-painting, it is enough to identify the most problematic areas of the surface. Cracks, for example, are visible to the naked eye, and "suspicious" areas can be checked by tapping on them with a wooden or plastic mallet. A dull sound will immediately give out where the plaster has lagged behind the surface. In these places, the old mortar is removed with a spatula. In this case, it is necessary to check what caused the delamination.
Perhaps, under the plaster that had lagged behind the wall, there was an unprepared surface: there were traces of paint, grease or whitewash on it. All this will need to be removed, otherwise the new layer will suffer the same fate as the previous one. Wall cleaning should be carried out until the dirt is completely removed.
Back to the table of contents
How to deal with a fungus?
Another factor in the detachment of the plaster layer from the wall may be a fungus. Its appearance is most possible in rooms with high humidity and places of leaks.
The primary task in this case is to eliminate the causes of the appearance of the fungus: wall insulation, elimination of leaks, improvement of air circulation in the room.
If fungus was present on the wall, then a new layer of plaster should not be applied until the wall has been dried and treated with an antiseptic.
As for the removal of decaying plaster, it must be removed not only in the area with obvious signs of the appearance of fungus, but also go beyond it by a few cm, removing the "healthy" solution around the affected area. It should be added that before removing the old plaster, the treated area must be moistened. This is done not only so that there is less dust, because fungal spores also fly freely with it. You also need to clean the base as deeply as possible under the area infected with the fungus. If the wall is brick, then the masonry seams are cleaned 2-3 cm deep. All insufficiently strong fragments are removed from the concrete partition.
Further plaster repair can be continued only after thorough drying of the wall. And when the surface dries, it must be saturated with fungicidal compounds that will destroy the spores remaining in the wall and prevent the appearance of fungus in the future. Once again, it should be recalled that antifungal treatment is effective only after eliminating the causes leading to its appearance.
Back to the table of contents
Crack treatment
Cracking cracks for subsequent repair of plaster looks much easier. All crevices are moistened with water, after which flaking fragments are removed from the edges with a spatula. With the help of tools, a kind of groove is made along the crack with a narrowing inward. After cleaning, the cavities are treated with primers that improve the adhesion properties of the walls being repaired. The primer is applied to all surfaces on which the plaster will be applied.
Back to the table of contents
What is needed at the preparatory stage?
It is best to carry out work on cleaning internal walls from defective plaster with the following tools:
- spatulas of different widths;
- with a trowel;
- steel brush;
- construction hairdryer;
- perforator.
The latter can be useful if you need to go deeper into the concrete partition to remove traces of fungus, and the hairdryer is used to remove old paint from the wall (although this work must be done in a ventilated room) and drying damp surfaces.
For the impregnation of the areas to be repaired, the following are used:
- plain water;
- antifungal solutions;
- primer.
They are applied to the surfaces to be repaired with a brush or spray gun.
Back to the table of contents
How to repair plaster?
Large sections of the wall require reinforcement.
Extensive areas with damaged plaster and the largest cracks require additional reinforcement. A reinforcing tape is laid in the cracks, and the area for plastering is pasted over with a reinforcing mesh. Areas adjacent to door and window frames are also being reinforced. It should be added that on deep and wide areas where repairs will be carried out, wall plaster is applied in several layers. The first is done by spraying with a liquid solution.
After it dries, another layer of plaster is applied to the wall, which must dry before applying the next one. Sometimes, to repair a problem area, it is necessary to plaster it in 3-4 layers. The last of them can be leveled with a rule if its length allows it to rest on the edges of the cut surface, or with a grater. It may be necessary to install beacons if the area to be repaired turns out to be too large (how to do this will be discussed below).
All defects on the walls are sealed with a solution with the same type of composition, which was used for plastering them earlier. It must be said that it is not worth preparing a solution with the maximum content of the binding component (cement). This will not so much improve the strength characteristics of the plaster as will lead to the appearance of new cracks in it. For better plasticity, add glue (for example, PVA) to the solution. The solution for the finishing layer is made with a slightly lower content of the binder than the previous ones.
If the partitions are lined with gypsum board or MDF panels, then the repair of the plaster can be completed at this, however, before gluing the wallpaper to the inner walls, the surfaces need to be putty, in front of which the slightly hardened finishing plaster of the walls is treated with a bar of expanded polystyrene. With its help, small irregularities are rubbed, and the surface becomes more uniform.
Back to the table of contents
How to repair walls in wet rooms?
Often the walls of many bathrooms, kitchens and toilets are covered with paint. Many homeowners have a desire to make repairs in these premises and lay out their partitions with tiles. Plastering on the walls cannot be carried over the paint, so it will have to be removed. It has already been described above how the paint is removed. After that, internal plaster is applied, correcting surface defects and leveling it before laying the finishing material.
Do not forget that bathrooms and kitchens are rooms with a high level of humidity, so the likelihood of fungus in them is quite high. To avoid problems in the further operation of these rooms, treat the walls with fungicidal agents.
High-quality leveling of the walls is possible only when using a beacon profile. This stage of interior wall repair can be considered the most time consuming, as it requires the most responsible approach to work.
To install beacons you will need:
- plastic dowels 4 x 60 mm;
- the corresponding self-tapping screws;
- beacon profile with fasteners;
- plumb line or level;
- hammer drill;
- drill screwdriver;
- synthetic threads.
Holes for dowels are drilled near the upper and lower corners of one of the walls. 2 vertical profiles are attached to the wall. The correctness of their installation is determined by a plumb line or level. Between the extreme beacons, threads are pulled, creating a plane for future plaster. The rest of the profiles are attached with orientation to these threads. The distance between the beacons should be slightly less than the length of the rule. The same operation is repeated on the remaining partitions. Beacons can also be attached to the walls with plaster.
The first layer of plaster consists of a liquid solution, which is sprayed onto the surface, the next layers are stretched over it with a trowel, trowel or trowel. The finish layer is aligned with a beacon-based rule. Excess mortar in the corners is removed with an angle leveler. Some time after leveling, the plastered wall is rubbed with a float.
All connections, including those used in furniture production, can be divided into two categories: detachable and one-piece.
The latter constitute a special category, since special requirements are imposed on them. They work in conditions of temperature and humidity changes, which affects their durability and stability. And if the detachable connections can be tightened or sorted out, then with one-piece connections such a procedure cannot be carried out.
A little about the characteristics of glue D4 adhesives
In the production of furniture, glued one-piece joints are mainly used. Since furniture, as a rule, is made from wood materials or derivatives from them, then appropriate adhesives are used. One of the most important criteria characterizing the glue is its water resistance. So, glue D4 considered to be the most water-resistant compared to the rest. This is all the more important because the polyvinyl acetate dispersions, widely used as furniture adhesives, work even in tropical climates.
About gluing
The drying parameters of the glue during application are influenced by temperature, humidity and pressing force of the elements to be glued. A higher temperature will shorten the compression time and moisture will increase it.
Another point is the moisture content of the glued surfaces. For most moisture resistant adhesives, it should be between 7 and 10%. That is, the surfaces must be dry.
A bit of physics
The physics of the process is such that in the process of absorbing moisture, the adhesive layer swells, and during evaporation and recoil, on the contrary, it dries up and loses in size. Such fluctuations lead to the fact that the glue line "crumbles" and loses strength and geometric stability. In fact, these cyclical fluctuations lead to the destruction of the joint and the furniture as a whole. That is why the moisture resistance of the glue is so important.
ABOUT THE PROCESS OF GLUING WITH THE USE OF ADHESIVE D4
When gluing, it is advisable to reduce the gap between the parts to a minimum, since a large tolerance and an increase in the adhesive layer will reduce the strength of the joint and increase the drying time. The glue is applied to one of the surfaces and the surfaces are pressed against each other. It also does not hurt to clamp them with a clamp. The seam gains its final strength and water resistance after 7 days. As a rule, the glue does not change the color of the wood, but contact with the metal should be avoided, since together with the tannic acids of the wood itself, it can change its color. The adhesive layer itself can also be painted.
I would be grateful if you share the article on social networks: