Do-it-yourself bathroom restoration. Three methods available. Do-it-yourself complete restoration of the enamel of an old cast-iron bathtub: restoration features How to update the bathroom coating yourself

After passing the first circle along the board, pour acrylic in the center. Excess paint should flow down the drain into the installed container.

It is unacceptable to manually level out streaks and deformations, otherwise you will only make things worse. As a rule, after the acrylic solution dries, the surface itself becomes even, and the defects disappear. But in any case, filling the bath with acrylic requires accuracy - take your time, and you will succeed.

After the completion of pouring, you need to wait 24 hours for the solution to solidify. You can use the bath after three days.

This technology has many advantages:

• resistance of the coating to the chemical attack of detergents;
• no need to dismantle the bath;
• the possibility of restoration of cast iron and steel surfaces;
• such coatings do not change color and are resistant to yellowing.

The many advantages of this technique have made it popular as it is an excellent opportunity to restore both cast iron and metal steel baths.

But, speaking about the advantages of this method of restoration, one cannot but mention its shortcomings:

If there are irregularities on the surface, it will not work to level them with an acrylic solution - this material will not be able to mask defects.

The second negative point is the need to dismantle the drain pipes. This kind of work is rather laborious.

Another disadvantage is the high price of the material.

Restoration with an acrylic insert

How to update a cast iron bathtub at home using a ready-made insert mold? Indeed, for the restoration of fonts, you can use not only an acrylic solution, but also an insert based on this material. A bath liner is a special acrylic insert. It is applied over the old coating, filling the base of metal or cast iron with a new shape.

Installation of the acrylic liner can be done by hand using the following instructions:

1. Remove the gutter drains at the top and bottom.
2. Make a groove for the drain in the liner, carefully cutting the edges to fit. In this case, the main thing is not to rush so that later you do not have to waste time on alterations.
3. Spray an even layer of polyurethane foam inside the bathtub.
4. An airtight compound is applied near the drain holes and at the connection points of the acrylic liner.
5. After that, the liner itself is installed by the method of "replacing" on the foam.
6. If you do everything correctly, the earbud will hold securely.
7. The next step is to install the water drains and fill the tub to fully adhere the insert.

The method of restoration and renovation of a bathroom using an acrylic liner is quite popular, because it has many advantages:

• quick installation;
• surface resistance to the action of chemical compounds;
• strength and resistance to mechanical damage;
• wear resistance;
• the cost of purchasing such an insert will be several times less than buying a new bath.

The snow-white coating has a presentable look and, which is important, does not slip. Bathing in bathtubs with an acrylic liner is safer and reduces the risk of injury from falls on slippery surfaces.

The new coating will be resistant to yellowing and corrosion. These liners retain heat well and are easily cleaned of dirt. The surface of the baths with acrylic liners is smooth and has a long service life.

Acrylic liners are much stronger than enamel surfaces, such coatings last much longer, due to them, the service life of fonts is extended.

There are quite a few advantages of acrylic inserts, but they also have several disadvantages:

• they need to be very carefully removed from dirt;
• it is not always possible to clearly insert the insert into the font, since their sizes are different;
• if the foam for installation turns out to be of poor quality, reliable fixation of the liner will not work;
• the need to remove pipes to drain water;
• the liner is mounted on an adhesive foam base, gradually it will still begin to flake off.

Detailed instructions on how - all the secrets and subtleties of the laying technology are described in detail, with the recommendations of specialists.

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Does it make sense to carry out the restoration yourself

Many bathroom owners are wondering: is there any point in restoring a bath or is it easier to buy a new one? Wouldn't their efforts to update her look be in vain, how long will the new coating last?

It is worth restoring a bath in the following cases:

• if there are minor defects on its surface, but in general its condition is normal. If you update the coating of such a bath, it can be used for several more years;
• if the bath has lost its luster, its original color has changed (yellowness has appeared), but there are no large cracks and leaks;
• if the baptismal font has never been restored.

You need to buy a new bathtub instead of an old one in the following situations:

• if the container is leaking and there are obvious traces of rust on it;
• if the bath has already been renewed many times, but still has lost its shade and shine;
• if the font is too large and does not blend in with the new interior.

Decorating a bathroom in a different style is the most common reason for buying a new bathtub, in other cases it is more rational to restore an old one, of course, if there are no leaks in it.

You will learn how to properly restore and update a bath by watching this video tutorial:

1. In most cases, enamel coatings for baths have toxic properties: when working with such compounds, you should wear a mask and protective gloves so as not to harm your health.
2. To restore fonts, you need to purchase high quality materials so that they lie evenly and do not form smudges, because your ultimate goal is not only to extend the life of the bath, but also to make it look attractive.
3. To speed up the drying of the new coating, you can blow dry it.
4. You can remove the smallest dust particles that can spoil the appearance of the coating using a vacuum cleaner without using attachments.
5. Do not rush to apply subsequent layers of enamel, wait at least a quarter of an hour to make sure there are no smudges. If there are no defects, you can continue to work, if any, smear them with a small brush.

These helpful tips will help you complete your bath restoration effortlessly on your own.

A bathroom renovation is a great way to refresh your hot tub and save yourself the expense of buying a new bathtub.

The photo below is an example of updating a bath without replacing the liner, photos before and after restoration:

There are several restoration techniques, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. Before applying a specific coating renewal method and rebuilding the bath yourself, study the pros and cons of each method to find the best one.

Anton Tsugunov

Reading time: 4 minutes

Over time, any plumbing wears out and loses its original appearance. Rust, chips, scratches, cracks, loss of gloss and whiteness are inevitable consequences of daily use and improper care. Do-it-yourself bathroom restoration can restore a decent look to old plumbing. In order for the bath renovation to take place with the least cost and effort, you need to have a good idea of \u200b\u200bthe algorithm for this procedure at home, understand how to restore the bath, how to paint the bath inside, and which means to choose.

There are three ways to restore a bath on your own. Depending on its initial state, you can choose one of them:

1. Enamelling.
2. Restoration with liquid acrylic.
3. Installing the liner.

Bath enamel

Do-it-yourself bath enameling is a feasible procedure for any owner. To understand how to restore the bath enamel, you need to pay attention to the condition of the container.

Repairing a cast iron or steel bathtub with enamel is justified if there are no deep chips and cracks. Otherwise, the enamel, even applied in 2–4 layers, will not hide serious damage.

How to restore a cast-iron bath yourself at home? When choosing how to paint a bathtub inside, preference should be given to high-quality epoxy enamel from trusted manufacturers, guided by the following criteria:

• The choice of the method of applying the enamel: with a brush, roller, aerosol or pouring method. The most acceptable are application with a brush or in bulk, since the roller can add unnecessary porous texture, and aerosol spraying can be used only in the case of repairing individual areas.
• Completeness of the kit for coating restoration. It is convenient to purchase a set, which includes everything you need for repair - enamel, auxiliary components, a tool for application and compositions for bath preparation.

Important! High-quality epoxy enamel, due to its thick consistency, is able to create a smooth, even surface and repair small chips. But it should be understood that self-repair of the bathtub at home is inferior to the industrial method of applying enamel: there may be a change in the color of the new enamel, increased vulnerability to impacts and chips, restrictions in care products.

Self-enameling of the bath takes place in two stages: preparatory work and enamel application.

Enamel application

How to restore the bath enamel becomes clearer after reading the instructions for the purchased enamel composition. The important points are as follows:

• Preparation of the composition. Following the instructions, prepare the enamel by combining the active ingredient and hardener in the right proportions.
• Coating with the first layer of enamel. Cover the surface with a thin layer of enamel using a hard wide brush, starting from the top, gradually going down into the bowl. Especially carefully you can walk along the bottom of the bathtub and the drain as in the most worn-out places.
• Application of the second layer of enamel. A new enamel layer is applied after some time specified in the instructions. After that, it can be left to dry for 15 minutes.
• Correction of smudges. All detected enamel smudges must be smeared with a brush, moving up and down and from side to side. This should be done quickly, until the enamel has dried.
• Reapplication of the enamel. To achieve a more reliable result, increase the strength of the enamel and protect against new chips, a cast-iron or metal container can be painted over with one or two more layers of enamel.

And how to restore the bath enamel if the chips are deep? It is necessary to seal the chips with putty, polish and degrease. All chips and cracks must be carefully repaired:

• using sandpaper soaked in water to polish the edges of the chip;
• degrease cracks with a solvent or white spirit;
• dry the surface;
• apply enamel.

After enameling, the bath should dry for 7-8 days. Proper bathroom maintenance should avoid the use of abrasive detergents.

Restoration with liquid acrylic

Repairing a bath with liquid acrylic is an easier process at home than enameling. Acrylic is resistant to chemical and mechanical stress, unpretentious in work. Using liquid acrylic, you can get a beautiful, smooth surface that is resistant to temperature extremes and hard water.

Because of the way the acrylic is applied, this method is sometimes referred to as a "pouring bath". A do-it-yourself pouring bath is a suitable economical way to update cast iron products.

Acrylic of the Stakril trademark is often used - a two-component high-density enamel including a base and a hardener.

Do-it-yourself acrylic coating of the bathtub consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation. This process is similar to the preparation for enameling: you need to clean the bath from the old coating, degrease, repair cracks.
2. Acrylic application. Having combined the components according to the instructions, acrylic is poured from a convenient container in a thin stream onto the side of the bathtub, pushing it under the edge of the tile. The acrylic layer should be about 4–6 mm and drain down to the middle of the container. Moving along the side, you need to evenly pour the acrylic. After applying acrylic along the outer edge, they continue to pour it into the middle of the container, gradually narrowing the circles and moving in a spiral. The rest of the mixture flows into a prepared container through the drain.
3. Drying. Liquid acrylic can dry from 6 to 24 hours. But still, it is better not to rush to immediately use the updated bathroom, but wait a few days.

Restoration with acrylic liner

The third method of repair is to put the liner or "bath in the bath". It is impossible to make an insert at home, it is made in an industrial way and is an insert that repeats the shape of the bath itself. This is an easy and quick way to repair your bathtub yourself. But it also has disadvantages:

• Installation requires the removal of the bottom row of tiles to secure the edge of the insert.
• Inability to repeat the exact shape of a cast-iron bath with an insert. This is due to the fact that cast iron is a complex material for molding and has different depressions and protrusions, which, when the liner is installed, provoke the formation of voids. All this negatively affects the quality of the new bath.

Liner installation algorithm

1. Remove the tiles adjacent to the bath.
2. Clean off old enamel.
3. Wash, degrease and dry the bath.
4. Dismantle the drain system and seal the hole with silicone gaskets.
5. Try on the liner. Mark the place where the drain neck will be with a marker. Cut off excess acrylic if necessary.
6. Pull out the insert and apply two-component foam or assembly glue to the entire surface of the bathtub inside.
7. Return the drainage device and install the insert.
8. Treat the joint between the bathroom and the wall with plumbing sealant.
9. Install plastic curbs for better tightness.

Due to the intense load, stains, cracks and chips form on the surface of the bath. When defects appear, it is not at all necessary to run to the store for a new bathroom, because it is much cheaper to restore the damaged coating using acrylic, enamel or an insert. We will tell you how to restore a bathtub with your own hands, eliminate minor defects and how much such repairs will cost from specialists.

There are three main ways to restore the bath surface:

• • Applying a new layer of acrylic (glass).

• • Applying a new layer of enamel.

• Bonding an acrylic liner.

Regardless of the restoration method you choose, it is necessary to prepare the bath for repair.

Preparatory stage

Bath preparation process for renovation:

1. Free the bathroom from unnecessary interior items that can interfere with the work process.
2. Dismantle the bathtub drain and overflow, to do this, unscrew the outer grilles and pressure rings on the pipes. Depending on the condition of the removed pipes and parts, buy new parts in advance to replace the old ones.
3. Remove the baseboard between the bathroom and the wall.
4. Using coarse sandpaper or a drill with a special attachment, sand the surface of the bath until the gloss is removed. When sanding, try to remove any bumps or loose pieces of old coating. If the bath was previously restored, then in this case, it is necessary to remove the entire layer of the old coating.
5. Putty all chips and pits, after the putty has dried, re-sand.
6. Collect all debris and dust with a vacuum cleaner or damp cloth.
7. Cover the outside of the tub and the floor with plastic.
8. Wash the tub thoroughly with a good quality detergent.
9. Degrease the bath surface with a solvent.

Below is a list of tools and consumables that you will need in the preparatory stage:

• Adjustable wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• A hammer.
• Putty knife.
• Putty for metal
• Chisel or chisel.
• Drill with sanding attachment or coarse sandpaper.
• Vacuum cleaner or rag.
• Masking tape.
• Polyethylene film.
• Detergent.
• Solvent.

Having finished preparing the bath, proceed to the restoration option of your choice.

Surface restoration with acrylic

When restoring a bath with an acrylic mixture, a very important factor is the correct choice of the acrylic manufacturer. After all, the quality of the restoration largely depends not on the skill of the worker, but on the behavior of the mixture during pouring. Very often, the use of low-quality acrylic or hardener leads to the formation of air bubbles, smudges and peeling of the coating during further use. Therefore, when buying, do not save money and buy acrylic of European production.


To restore a bath with acrylic, adhere to the following work order:

1. Prepare the bath for restoration (see above).
2. Read the instructions for preparing the mixture on the acrylic can.
3. Mix acrylic and hardener according to instructions. Use a drill with a nozzle for mixing. Stir the mixture at low speed with the drill. Mix for at least 10 minutes.
4. Take a plastic cup and plug the drain hole with it.
5. Pour the prepared mixture into the container you will be pouring with.
6. Start pouring the mixture from the top of the tub, smoothly pouring the acrylic from the container onto the surface.
7. Pour the mixture around the entire perimeter of the tub, allowing it to drain freely to the bottom.
8. Fill the walls of the bath.
9. Take a rubber or wooden spatula and use it to spread the mixture evenly over the edges of the tub.
10. The mixture that has accumulated at the bottom of the bath, with a spatula, re-drive onto the walls and let the acrylic drain again.
11. Using a spatula, spread the mixture evenly over the bottom of the tub, after that, remove the plastic cup from the drain hole and let the excess acrylic drain into the previously substituted container.
12. Watch for the formation of smudges. If a smudge is found, smooth it out with a rubber spatula.
13. If hair or debris gets on the flooded surface, remove it in time using the tip of a knife or needle.
14. If air bubbles are found, lightly blow the surface with a construction hairdryer.
15. When finished pouring, let the bath dry for 48 hours.
16. After the bath has dried, install the drain, overflow and baseboard.
17. Paint the outside of the tub with metal paint or cover with a decorative rim.

Bathtub restoration with acrylic mixture is completed!

List of tools and materials for restoration with acrylic:

• Drill with attachment.
• Plastic cup and container for pouring.
• Rubber or wooden spatula.
• Knife or needle.
• Building hair dryer.
• Wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• Brushes or spray gun.
• Sealant.
• Acrylic.
• Hardener.
• Metal paint.
• Skirting board.
• Decorative board.

You can also find detailed instructions on how to restore a bath with acrylic in the video:

Surface restoration with enamel

Bathtub restoration with enamel is much cheaper than other options, but it has its drawbacks. Firstly, this is the service life of the restored surface, which is significantly less than that of acrylic coatings. Secondly, in order for the enamel layer to match the acrylic coating, high professionalism is required when applying the enamel. Thirdly, enamel is more susceptible to mechanical damage than acrylic.


If, despite all the shortcomings, you decide to restore the bath with enamel, then do the following:

1. Prepare the bathtub for repair (see above).
2. Read the instructions on the package of the purchased enamel. There are two types of enamel, ready for use and requiring the addition of a hardener.
3. Mix hardener and enamel in the proportions indicated in the instructions.
4. Please note that the enamel surface is applied to the bathtub in two layers, therefore, you will need two cans of enamel. The second can of enamel is opened and mixed with the hardener, only after the first layer has dried.
5. Using a wide brush, apply the first coat of enamel to the bathtub. Try to apply the enamel without leaving streaks or smudges. Timely remove specks and hairs from the brush that fall on the surface.
6. Due to the increased load on the bottom of the bathtub, it must be painted twice.
7. After the first coat has dried, mix the second can of enamel with hardener.
8. Apply a second coat of enamel to the bath.
9. The time for complete drying of the enamel is different for each manufacturer, you can find it out in the instructions or on the packaging. After the enamel has completely dried, install the drain, overflow, plinth and decorative board.

Bathtub enamel complete!

Tools and materials required for enamel bath restoration:

• Drill with attachment.
• Wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• Brushes.
• Sealant.
• Enamel.
• Hardener.
• Skirting board.
• Decorative board.

You can also watch how to restore a bathtub with enamel in the video:

Bathtub restoration with liner

The main problem with this restoration option is the selection of the insert, which exactly matches the shape of your bath. This problem is especially acute for the owners of antique and custom baths. In the event that you have a standard and relatively new bathtub, you will not have any problems finding an insert.


To install the liner, you need to do the following:

1. Prepare the bath for restoration as described above.
2. Using an electric jigsaw or a metal hacksaw, cut off the safety edge from the edges of the insert.
3. Place the liner in the tub and mark the drain and overflow.
4. Pull the liner out of the bath and drill the holes according to the markings.
5. Sand the edges of the holes with fine sandpaper.
6. Apply sealant to the edges of the drain and overflow.
7. Apply strips of low expansion polyurethane foam over the entire surface of the bath. The stripes should be 15-20 centimeters apart. In no case use ordinary polyurethane foam, this can lead to deformation of the liner.
8. Install the insert on the bathtub and install the drain with overflow.
9. Pour water into the bathtub to press the liner more firmly against the bathtub.
10. Leave the bath with water for 24 hours until the foam dries completely.
11. Drain the water and remove the protective film from the liner.
12. Install the skirting board and trim on the bathtub.

Liner installation is complete!

Tools and materials required to install the liner:

• Electric jigsaw or hacksaw for metal.
• Drill with large hole attachment.
• Wrench.
• Screwdriver.
• Sandpaper.
• Construction foam with a low coefficient of subsequent expansion.
• Skirting board.
• Decorative board.
• Acrylic liner.

You can also watch the video how to install the acrylic liner:

Correction of small defects on the surface of the bath

When one or two small chips or small cracks appear on the surface of the bathtub, it is not entirely reasonable to make a complete restoration. In such cases, it is enough to make minor repairs and eliminate defects.

Removing a chip on a cast iron bath

For repairs you will need:

• Automotive putty.
• Coated enamel in one color.
• Sandpaper.
• Solvent.
• Brush.
• Putty knife.

Dry the chip area and sand it with sandpaper. Pry up the edges of the chip with a knife and remove any loose pieces of enamel. Degrease the chipped surface with solvent and coat with automotive filler. After drying, the level of the putty should be slightly below the level of the enamel. Sand the filled area with sandpaper. Using a brush, apply a layer of enamel to the filler. After the enamel has dried, you can use the bathroom again.

Removing chips on an acrylic bath

The acrylic sheet from which the acrylic bath is made is quite resistant to mechanical damage. But there are times when, due to objects with sharp angles falling into the bathtub, chips form on the surface and there is a need for repair.

To remove a chip in an acrylic bath, you will need:

• Single color acrylic with bath coating.
• Hardener.
• Solvent.
• Rubber spatula.
• Fine-grained sandpaper.

Dry the chip area and sand it with sandpaper. Remove dust and degrease the chip with a solvent. Mix a small amount of acrylic with hardener. You need to get a mixture of strong viscosity, otherwise acrylic will flow out of the damaged area. Apply the mixture to the chip with a spatula and level the surface and the damaged area. Let the acrylic dry for 48 hours and then use the bathroom.

Removing stains and rust

Usually, to remove stubborn stains and rust from the surface of the bath, it is enough to use a quality detergent. But in especially difficult cases, to eliminate contamination, you can use hydrochloric acid.

Apply acid to the dirty area for 3-5 minutes. After that, wipe the area with a washcloth until the stain disappears and wash off the acid with water.
Please note that hydrochloric acid emits toxic fumes and can burn the skin, therefore, when handling it, gloves, goggles and a respirator must be worn.

Bath restoration questions and answers

In this section, we will try to answer the most common questions about bathroom restoration.

Question: What is the best material to use for a bath restoration?

Answer: The choice of material largely depends on financial capabilities. The most economical restoration option is considered to be the enamel bath, and the most expensive is the use of an acrylic liner. As for the quality of the coating and its service life, in the first place is the acrylic insert, the service life of which is 10-15 years. In second place is acrylic coating, service life from 5 to 15 years, depending on the operating conditions and the quality of the casting. And in the last place is the enamel coating, the term of use is up to 5 years.

Question: Is it possible to restore a bathtub at home?

Answer: Yes, you can. To do this, carefully read the materials and videos presented in our article. Be sure to follow the instructions for use of the restoration materials.

Question: How do I give the coating my favorite color?

Answer: Of course, it is best to buy enamel or acrylic of the desired shade. But if there is a need to change the color of the mixture, then during the mixing process, you can always add a dye.

Question: How much does the restoration of a bathtub cost when contacting a specialist?

Answer: The cost of restoration depends on the region and the cost of the consumables used. Below, we provide a list of approximate prices for bathroom restoration, depending on the type of coating:

• Liquid acrylic restoration - from 3000 to 6000 rubles.
• Enamel restoration - from 2,000 to 5,000 rubles.
• Restoration using an insert - from 5,000 to 12,000 rubles.

We hope that the information presented in our article was useful to you!

Bathroom renovation is a long and costly event. That is why we are trying to install beautiful and reliable equipment in the bathroom, which will serve trouble-free for many years and will not require replacement or repair. But even the highest quality plumbing loses its attractiveness over time - subtle, but gradually increasing cracks and dangerous chips may appear on the surface of the bath, the bowl itself darkens, acquiring a dirty yellow tint, and the enamel loses its smoothness. There are two ways out of this situation - replace the bath with a new one or restore it.The first way will significantly burden your budget and will require several weeks to re-equip the bathroom, the second way is a more economical solution, and it takes much less time to restore the bowl. So what is a home bath restoration?

Bath restoration methods

If you decide to restore the surface of the bowl yourself, then first you should choose the option that suits you. Now applied three restoration methods:

• two-component enamel coating;
• filling with liquid acrylic;
• installation of an acrylic liner.

Each solution has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account. But before proceeding with the restoration, you need to carefully prepare the surface of the bath. The final result depends on this stage of work: high-quality pre-treatment ensures that the new coating will last a long time, while illiterate preparatory measures will lead to rapid wear of the restored surface.

We are preparing

Before starting work, prepare the tools and tools that you need:

• abrasive cleaning powder;
• hard brush;
• sandpaper;
• degreaser or solvent;
• brush with soft bristles;
• a lint-free towel or cloth;
• protective materials and accessories (polyethylene for covering nearby objects, masking tape, rubber gloves, preferably a respirator).

If there are places on the surface of the bathtub where there is already rust, then also prepare a product for removing it.

Now get to work, paying attention to every centimeter of the bath.

1. Empty the whole bowl using powder and a brush. Apply a special agent to places with rust, wait a while and wipe the surface well.
2. Without rinsing off the cleaning agent, sand the surface until powder marks appear. If you have a sander, then use it - it will greatly facilitate the work and will allow you to complete this stage faster. Do not forget that the entire structure should be sanded completely, including the external parts.
3. When finished sanding, rinse the tub. Make sure not even the smallest particles are left in it. Dry the surface and apply a solvent or degreaser.
4. After removing the composition, fill the bath with hot water for 10-15 minutes, then drain the water and wipe it well with a towel or non-woven cloth that is lint-free and does not leave marks.

At this step, you can get rid of noticeable enamel defects and overgrown cracks. If there is such damage on the bowl, then apply a putty on them, and after drying, sand it with sandpaper. Remove all debris again and run over the surface again with solvent.

After you make sure that the bathtub is clean, cover the mixer with plastic wrap, protect all surfaces adjacent to the bowl with masking tape, disassemble the siphon and be sure to place a container under the drain hole where excess new coating will drain. Your bathtub is now completely ready for restoration.

We restore with two-component enamel

Restoring a bath with enamel is an inexpensive and uncomplicated method. It should be borne in mind that enamel preparations are quite caustic and have an unpleasant odor,therefore it is worth using a respirator. Also remember to wear rubber gloves.

Mix enamel and hardener according to the instructions. The finished composition has the consistency of paint, so it will not be difficult to act. Cooked cover the entire surface with the mixture, using a brush. First go with horizontal strokes, then vertical ones. When you are finished applying the first coat, pause for 10-15 minutes and start covering the bath a second time without waiting for the previous coat to dry completely. Pay special attention to bottom processing- it is in this area that the coating experiences the greatest stress.

To facilitate the process of applying the enamel allows the spray. If you have such a device, then use it, but also be careful and make sure that there are no areas not covered with enamel.

After the coating is completely completed, you need to leave the bath for 5-7 days until the enamel has completely hardened. It is advisable to ensure cleanliness in the bathroom during this time, to avoid any solid particles, drops of water and other liquids getting on the surface. If these conditions are met, you will get a new smooth bowl, with a rich color and soft shine. A refurbished two-component enamel bathtub will serve you for several years.

We restore the bath with liquid acrylic

Liquid acrylic (stacril) is a convenient way to refresh your bath. Stacril is also a two-component composition, the mixture is prepared just before application. Unlike enamel stackril has no unpleasant odor. The material is suitable for the restoration of both acrylic bathtubs and bowls made of other materials, in particular, the restoration of a cast-iron bathtub with liquid acrylic is widespread, which allows not to abandon the advantages of traditional cast iron, but to make the bathroom modern and more practical.

A few words should be said about the glass itself. His chemical properties make it possible to create a fairly dense coating on the surface thickness 4-6 mm. In the process of application, the composition does not spread, but remains viscous, so it is very easy to distribute it over the bowl. Stackril freezes slowly, which means it can be distributed without haste to the corners of the bath, and if shortcomings come to light, then calmly fix them.

Recall that an already prepared surface is treated with liquid acrylic. After mixing the compositions in accordance with the instructions, you need to pour a small amount of the resulting mixture into the container. Remember to put a bucket or jar under the drain hole to collect the excess. Next, part of the mixture must be poured onto the upper edge of the bowl; when the mixture, flowing down, reaches about the middle, you can start moving along the side, pouring it with liquid acrylic. When the mixture in the container ends, add a new portion and continue. After going through the entire bath around the perimeter, repeat the process, but now start not from the sides, but from the middle of the bowl. Don't skimp on glass- its excess amount will drain into the jar under the drain, and the resulting coating will be dense and smooth. If you notice that the mixture is bubbling, then simply walk over the area with a spatula. When finished, leave the bath to dry completely. This usually takes up to 4 days. This restoration technology allows you to get a beautiful design, and its service life will be 10-15 years.

Updating with an insert

Inserting a new acrylic liner is a quick and demanding way to get a new bath. In this case, it will not be possible to completely carry out the restoration of the bath with your own hands, since the liner is produced only at the factory according to an individual order. But any adult is quite capable of inserting it on their own, the main thing is to follow the sequence of actions and be careful.

First, the bath is cleaned and degreased. according to the algorithm described above. Then, on the new bowl, the places where the drain and overflow holes will be located are marked. It will be very convenient to do this as follows: on the structure requiring restoration, a coloring material is applied to the drain and overflow points. It can be paint, but you can also use toothpaste, which is always in the bathroom. Then the insert is inserted into the bowl, pressed tightly and then removed. On the reverse side, you will see prints exactly in those places where there should be holes, which are drilled to make a new drain and overflow.

Now the old the surface should be treated with sealant and foam, Moreover, the compositions must be applied to the bottom, and to the walls, and to the sides of the bathroom. Then, without delay, you need to insert the insert into the old bathtub and press it well. As a rule, the liner is made of such a size that it can be inserted into the old bowl with little effort, this should be taken into account. After the liner is installed, you can get into the bathtub in the place where the drain is, after taking off your shoes, and slowly walk to the side along the entire bottom - this will ensure a complete fit. The walls must be well pressed with your hands, making sure that they too fell into place. If you see excess adhesive or foam on the sides, just remove them. Refit the drain and overflow opening using old or new equipment, plug the drain and fill the tub with water. This step should not be ignored, otherwise the foam may swell during curing and cause deformation of the liner. After 12-24 hours, the water goes down. Your renovated bathtub is now ready for use. Earbud manufacturers claim that they retain their properties for 10 years.

What is the best bath restoration?

If your bathtub really needs to be refurbished, then you have to think about the technology choice. It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of which bath restoration is better. If you have the time and can not use the bathroom for a week, then give preference to an inexpensive two-component enamel. If you want a better finish, then your choice is liquid acrylic. In the event that you do not have time to wait and are ready to allocate funds for restoration, then stop at an acrylic liner. We add that whichever method you choose, in the future you will need take good care of the bath, do not wash it with abrasive and aggressive agents and carefully take care of the coating, promptly removing all contaminants.

Separately, it should be added that the restoration of the bath using the described methods is suitable only for those cases when the coating does not have significant defects. If your plumbing equipment already has very noticeable cracks or chips near the drain or the bowl is deformed, then restoration will not help you, in such situations the only way out is to buy a new bath.