When building a house and landscaping, it is often necessary to make round holes in the ground. They are needed when constructing a fence - for installing pillars, when building gazebos, installing arches and other light utility structures. The same pits, but of a larger diameter and depth, are required during the device. Make these holes with a motorized or manual drill. They are available in stores in sufficient quantities, but many prefer homemade products: they are often more productive and reliable than factory products. In addition, you can make a drill with your own hands of any design, and there are a lot of them.
Designs and application
Easier-to-make garden earth drills. Depending on the type of soil on which drilling is carried out, their design is slightly modified. This is the beauty of home-made drills - they can be "sharpened" for specific conditions and it's not just about size - the blades can be made removable, bolted, but also in design features. Yes, ordinary drills in the store are inexpensive, but they are “universal”. Works well on "light" soils. On loams, clays, marl, etc. they are ineffective.
Making a garden drill
A garden drill is the simplest but most effective design. It consists of:
This is the basic design, and there are many improvements to it. But first, let's talk about what a dredger can be made of.
materials
As already mentioned, the rod is most often made from a round or square pipe. Diameter - from 3/4' to 1.5', profiled pipe can be taken from 20 * 20 mm to 35 * 35 mm.
Knives-blades can be made from:
It is easier to make blades from a saw blade. In this case, the cutting edges are already prepared. It will be possible to further sharpen the side edges to make the ground easier to cut.
Piku-drill is made from different materials - there are a lot of its designs. They make just a sharpened rod. Then you need a piece of a bar of large diameter. The second option is to make something like a drill out of a strip. And also a combination of the two.
Pika - one of the tip options
And finally, about the pen. It is more convenient if it is made of a round pipe. Its diameter can be selected according to the coverage of the palms. The main requirement is that you should be comfortable.
Knives and the method of fastening
First of all, you need to decide whether you are making a drill with your own hands with removable or stationary blades. If the blades are removable, weld shelves made of thick steel at one end of the rod. Shelves are made at an angle - so that the planes of the knives are separated at an angle of 25-30 °.
After the shelves are welded, two or three holes are made in them - for fasteners. Then the same holes will need to be made in the blades, and installed on bolts of a solid diameter.
On one rod, you can have several sets of cutting blades - for pits of different diameters
In the disks themselves, holes will have to be cut in the center so that they fit snugly against the rod, but this operation is also required for the monolithic version - with welded blades.
Sheet steel
If you are going to make the blades from sheet steel, cut out a template from paper, follow it with a circle of steel. Drill a hole in the center - it will be necessary to insert and weld the rod into it. Circle or square - depending on the selected rod. The dimensions of the hole are slightly larger than the dimensions of the rod.
It is also necessary to spread the edges by 25-30 degrees. In this case, drilling efficiency will be maximum. If you work on dense soils (clay, loam with a predominance of clay), the blades under load can reduce. To avoid this, stops are added from a corner or a thick strip of steel.
The blades bend due to the fact that the steel is not hardened, but it is almost impossible to find it in the sheet, and if it is possible, then it is unlikely to be bent.
From saw blade
If you have an old saw blade of a suitable diameter, you have found an almost perfect option. They use hardened steel, and it is elastic and durable. But such a disk cannot be bent, therefore it is sawn in half and these halves are bred at the required angle.
Such a homemade drill for earthworks shows a fairly high performance. Even used discs have a well-ground edge. And to make drilling even easier, they also sharpen the drill on the sides with their own hands.
Modifications
In dense soils, it can be difficult to cut the soil with large blades. In this case, several blades of different sizes are welded onto the rod. From below, near the peak, the smallest ones are welded, above, retreating a few centimeters - large ones. There can be three such tiers, a maximum of four. The entire cutting part should not be more than 50 cm, otherwise it is very difficult to work physically.
If the drill is needed for shallow pits - for installing poles, etc., then this design is optimal - it has a relatively small weight, it is easy to work with. The process of work is this - they lowered it into the hole, turned it several times - pulled it out, poured out the soil stuck between the blades. But if you need to drill deep pits, you will be tormented by dragging a small amount of soil from the depth. For such cases, a box for collecting soil is welded over the blades.
And all these are handmade drills. All of them are highly efficient - it is much easier to work than purchased ones.
Auger drill
The auger drill, due to the large number of turns, creates significant resistance, that is, it is much more difficult to work with it than with a garden drill. But augers are used mainly in the presence of a mechanized drive - when they are made - to water, underground probes for a heat pump, etc.
To make a homemade auger drill, you will need several metal discs. The number of discs is equal to the number of turns. The disks are cut out the same, in them, in the center, a hole is cut for the rod, as well as the same sector - so that they can be welded.
The discs are welded on one side, then, slightly stretching the resulting accordion, the seam is welded on the other side. Rings are welded on the outer discs. Welded discs are put on the rod, the lower edge is welded.
Drill for piles TISE
In the author's version, the TISE drill is blades with a land receiver and a folding wider knife that forms an extension at the bottom of the pile. But working with such a projectile is inconvenient - the folding knife greatly interferes. Therefore, in some designs it is made removable, but in general, it is recommended to drill the pits themselves with an ordinary garden drill, and to expand it, make a separately folding knife with a land receiver. This makes the job easier and faster.
Do-it-yourself drill for TISE piles - one of the options
A cut-off shovel acts as a knife, and the land receiver is made from a can of herring. The knife is fixed movably, when lowered into the pit, it is pulled up by a nylon cable tied to the end. Having reached the bottom, the cable is loosened, the blade begins to cut the sides of the pit, forming the necessary expansion.
In the photo below - the second version of a home-made drill for TISE piles. The design is more complex, but also more efficient. The plow-blade is made from a piece of spring, sharpened and welded to the hinged structure with bolted connections.
The dredger is from an old propane tank. The earth is collected from below, because the receiver is made with a rounded bottom. It has two holes, their edges are sharpened.
This projectile works well even on dense clay. True, to reduce friction, the well must constantly be moistened with water.
Blueprints
A self-made drill is good because its design is “sharpened” for the owner. In the manufacturing process, everyone makes their own changes, then many more refine the product. But it can be difficult to do without basic drawings. This engraving contains several drawings with the dimensions of various drills. As you understand, the dimensions are conditional, they can and should be changed, adjusting to the dimensions of the required wells.
For planting plants, making a serious design does not make sense. In this case, you can make a garden drill from a shovel. They choose a high-quality shovel made of good steel, apply markings, as shown in the drawing. According to the markup, it will be necessary to cut out two small fragments, saw the lower part in the middle to a depth of 30 cm (pictured).
If the ground is soft, the conventional design does not work very well. For such cases, there is a special drill with an elongated cutting part. It is a kind of glass with slits on the sides. The cuts are equipped with cutting edges. They are best made from well-hardened steel.
This drawing shows an interesting design of the handle - it can be rearranged as the length of the rod increases.
Basic drawings of auger and garden drill
Both of these units work well, but the garden one often has to be removed, and the auger is harder to rotate. Choose according to your own preferences.
Garden drill drawing
Video materials
To ensure the proper level of comfort in the country, you need to take care of the availability of a water supply system, whether it be. It is necessary to prepare the appropriate equipment. Consider which ones exist and how to build them correctly with your own hands.
Consider the nature of the soil in your area. The simplest design is screw. It consists of a spiral, which is a drilling element, and a handle.
The structure must have:
- cutting element.
- Barbell.
- Pen.
Depending on the design, its equipment may vary slightly.
Split drill pipe
This is a structure that can lengthen as the drill goes deeper. Consists of separate detachable sections. One piece can be up to one meter long. The number of sections should be equal to the estimated depth of the future water well. This element is connected in several ways:
- Threaded coupling. An external thread should be cut on each pipe. It is important to choose a coupling of the required length and prevent it from scrolling on its own. For this, a pin lock is used.
- Nut and bolt connection. A nut/bolt is welded to the bar. The method is simple, but not reliable. A thin-walled pipe may not withstand the load and simply burst in a place near the weld.
- Clutch attachment. It is welded to a pipe of the appropriate diameter. Fixation should completely eliminate the possibility of turning.
One section is used first. As it sinks into the soil, the next element is added using a special connection. And drilling continues like this.
Types of drills for soil
The three most common are:
- Spiral.
- Spoon.
- Shock.
Each of them has its own characteristics. First, we will consider them, and then we will find out the manufacturing technology.
Spiral
Homemade spiral product is mainly used in dense loose loam. It may also include fine gravel. The principle of drilling is reduced to rotational movements. At the bottom of the drilling tool is a knife.
As the boom rotates, the knives on the spirals cut into the soil. After that, the structure rises and is released from the ground. As you go deeper, the bar can be increased.
In the manufacture, you can use halves of disks that are welded against each other. Available cutting blades must be well sharpened and hardened. When manually rotated, a pipe handle is welded perpendicular to the rod.
Advantages:
- It can be carried out independently in the manufacture of small wells of several meters.
- Ability to drill a mine in a few hours. Provided that the earth layer is soft.
- If it is equipped with an electric motor, the drilling process will resemble drilling.
Flaws:
- Not effective on boulders or hard rock.
spoon
It is used in conditions of wet clayey low-flowing rock. It is made from a steel cylinder, steel sheets can be used. In the lower part there is a special compartment having a spiral or longitudinal shape. The main working element is a spoon. In the process of rotation, the cutting and vertical edge pick up the soil. Thus, the earth fills the entire interior of the cylinder.
Advantages:
- It is quite possible to make your own.
- Unlike a spiral, a spoon drill will drill a hole in the ground much faster.
- It is possible to automate the process when lifting the structure from the soil.
Flaws:
- Need an assistant.
- Serious labor costs.
Shock
It is suitable for different types of soils:
- soft.
- Viscous.
- Solid.
- With boulders.
Depending on the type of soil, a different percussion tool is used. When drilling in soft soil - a wedge-shaped chisel, in viscous - an I-beam, in hard - cross and so on. The principle of operation is the same as for cable drilling. The only difference is that the structure itself is located in the ground and its weight ranges from 0.5 to 2.5 tons. The blows are carried out by a special block. After a passage of half a meter, the chisel is removed from the soil and cleaned of the soil.
Advantages:
- Used for land of different composition.
- It is possible to drill an Abyssinian spring in a short period of time.
Flaws:
- The process of drilling a well is laborious and requires additional equipment.
- A drilling system (tripod) is required.
- You can't do without help.
Tools and materials
Depending on the type of manufacture of a home-made drilling structure, the following may be needed:
- Steel rod.
- Metal pipe. The diameter is selected individually.
- Coupling to connect the rod.
- Circular saw for making cutters.
- A thick steel strip to form the screw.
- Rope.
- Metal sheet and more.
Tools:
- Bulgarian.
- Welding machine.
- Vice.
- Hammer.
- Perforator.
- Drill.
- Protective mask.
- Circle for metal and more.
How to DIY
We offer you some instructions for making:
- Spiral.
- Spoon.
- Shock.
Spiral
It is necessary to take a thick pipe. In its lower part there will be a cutting element. It is made from hard alloy. You will also need a metal strip to weld it along the entire structure. It should have a spiral shape, so that the soil will be pushed out. Prepare:
- A pipe of a given length with a thick wall.
- Metal disc, suitable from a carpenter's saw. It is good if its size immediately corresponds to the diameter of the future water well.
The build process looks like this:
- The bottom of the pipe must be sharpened.
- Attach a pointed tip to it and weld it.
- Take a saw blade and cut it in half.
- Both halves are welded to the bar at an angle. From its end, they should be at a distance of about 12.5 cm.
- A coupling is welded on top and connected to the next rod.
spoon
You should prepare:
- Pipe with thick walls.
- Welding machine.
In the manufacture of you can not do without a diagram or drawing. According to him, a corresponding cut is made in the pipe. Next, you need to make a section, for example, with a powerful hammer or sledgehammer. It is good to sharpen the bottom of the pipe, along with the side edges. A drill with a diameter of up to 36 mm is welded along the longitudinal axis from below. A bar is attached to the top.
Advice! Before starting the manufacture of homemade products, it is first recommended to harden the cutting edge.
Shock
First, you should study the project in the photo in this article and how the tripod is installed. The height of the structure is up to three meters. A rope block must be attached from above. Given that the weight of the drill is serious, a winch is being built. It is attached to a tripod.
In a borehole drill, a thick-walled pipe is used, of solid weight, so that it can also pierce the rock. The end is definitely sharpened. Above you need a hole for attaching the rope.
Important! It is better to harden the lower part. This is significant, as it is subjected to serious stress. In addition to hardening, sharpening is performed to form teeth.
A radial hole is also made on top of the pipe. This will allow you to remove the soil without much difficulty.
Before you start making a hand drill for a well, you need to ask yourself the following questions:
- How deep will it be?
- What is the nature of the soil: limestone, clay, rubble, rock or other?
- Is a mechanical unit necessary or will a simple manual one be used?
- Are there roots in the soil?
These factors will determine which home drilling system you make. If you don’t have time to make your own, you can purchase a small garden auger unit.
If a decision is made to drill, experts advise using to facilitate digging. With its help, it will be much easier to raise the soil to the surface. To increase the volume of soil being lifted, a lever is constructed from a log / barrel on a hill. The drilling process is greatly simplified and accelerated several times.
Advice! A homemade drill will be useful on the farm all the time. They can make small holes, for example, under the foundation of a fence, installing a bench, a table on the street, and so on. Therefore, it can be called universal.
How to make a homemade earth drill with an engine
If you are interested in a drill that works automatically with minimal human effort, then there are several ideas, for example, from a chainsaw. In this case, you should do everything right so as not to hurt yourself.
First of all, the engine power is calculated. The motor on the chainsaw has a large number of revolutions. If the drill rotates at such a speed, then it is extremely difficult to control such a machine. Moreover, there is a serious load on the motor.
Advice! The optimal choice would be in favor of the Ural and Druzhba chainsaws. Their motors have low revs, but they are quite powerful.
You can learn about all the details of this development by watching the prepared video. It tells in detail about how to make a power drill based on a chainsaw:
Plus, there are craftsmen who use the rotary hammer motor when drilling small wells. In this case, it is important to make the right nozzle and calculate the size of the drilling rig. Here you can also see the details of this miracle:
Is it worth it to do the design yourself or contact the company
Of course, the use of homemade inventions has positive aspects. For example, you can save a lot of money by making your own source. There are also many simple drawings and diagrams on how to make a drilling tool. However, all this has an obvious minus - it is impossible to dig a source to a great depth.
Therefore, if the water in the area lies deep, then it is better to contact a specialized company. Perhaps she will use hydraulic installations. In this case, it will be necessary to think through everything to the smallest detail:
- Find the exact spot with water.
- Immediately determine the place for working out.
- Discuss the cost of the work.
- Set deadlines, etc.
In any of the options, our material should help you in this difficult matter.
Useful video
Manual hydraulic drill:
When you need to dig a lot of holes in a summer cottage or a personal plot, many people, according to an old habit, pick up a shovel, but as practice shows, it is much easier to use a drill (mechanical, electric or fuel) for this - a simple device allows you to cover a large amount of earthwork in a relatively shorter time.
This tool is an indispensable assistant when installing a fence and street lamps, and is also used in a summer cottage and in the garden - for example, when planting cuttings of shrubs and young trees. With it, it is easier to organize a drainage system and dig a well. It is even more convenient to “perforate” the ice on winter fishing with an auger drill, and not with a shovel.
What types of drills exist
On sale are non-motorized drills, mechanized manual (electric and fuel models) and attachments. The most affordable and picky during operation are non-motorized. They are lightweight and compact in size, are reliable and durable - due to the simplicity of design (if desired, they are easy to make yourself).
There are 3 types of earthmoving tools:
- garden drill - used mainly for drilling holes for planting plants and trees, but also useful when installing columnar supports;
- auger - has an elongated cutting part, due to which earthmoving takes less time;
- for TISE piles - the design is classic, but in addition to the knife, a folding blade is also provided, with the help of which a characteristic expansion is formed in the lower part of the pit.
Fuel and electric manual models captivate with greater productivity, but require careful maintenance and constant "smoke breaks" in the process. Fuel drills are completely mobile, while electric drills require a power source or a gasoline generator nearby. Compared to mechanical drills, electric and gas drills fail more often.
Knives and mounting methods
The working parts are made in different shapes: rounded, rectangular and for spiral screws (augers). Also, home-made hand drills come with removable and non-removable blades. In the first case, steel shelves are attached to the lower end of the rod using electric welding at an angle of 25-30 degrees, and then several holes are made for fasteners (a similar operation is performed with blades).
The elements are connected with bolts or studs and nuts with washers. "Stationary" disks are simply welded to a metal rod. For a tighter fit of the already finished blades to the pipe, before installation along the edges, you will first need to cut semicircular holes.
Tool productivity and work quality
The performance of a manual hole drill depends on the design of the product, the type of cutting element, as well as the diameter and depth of the hole in the ground. To drill a hole with a diameter of 25-30 cm and a depth of 3 meters, it will take 2-3 hours. It is problematic to perform labor-intensive work with a hand drill, but for everyday tasks it will do just fine. With it, you can do up to 30 holes a day - to facilitate the work, use special tripods.
If you decide to make a tool with your own hands, choose only high-quality steel for cutting blades - in this case, homemade work will serve faithfully for more than one year.
Self-made drill
Using a conventional manual or mechanized hole drill, you can quickly and accurately drill holes in the ground for planting trees, installing poles, etc. It’s just not advisable to buy an expensive power tool or a gas drill to perform one-time work on the site (and sometimes a product of non-standard sizes is required). Therefore, in such situations, a hand drill for earthworks, if desired, can be made on your own.
DIY garden drill
First, weld the handle perpendicular to a vertical rod, which can be a hollow pipe, steel bar or rebar. When choosing a material, consider for what tasks you are making an earthen drill with your own hands. The blades are easiest to make from a carbide saw blade - cut it with a grinder, and then weld the two halves to the rod.
Advanced Earth Drill
Take a sheet metal square with dimensions of 210x210 mm and a thickness of 3-4 mm, mark the center by drawing two diagonals, and use a caliper to draw a circle of the desired diameter, then cut it out with a grinder. You will also need a three-quarter pipe and a bendix from the starter.
Using a special crown or on a lathe, drill a hole in the circle for the diameter of the pipe. Weld a steel triangle to the bottom of the rod (you can use the scraps of metal left over from the square), and then put a circle at a distance of 10 cm from its edge, fixing it with electric welding. In the longitudinal section of the disk, make two cuts and straighten them in different directions so that the bending angle is within 25–30 °. Weld a bendix and a horizontal handle to the top of the pipe. Do-it-yourself earth drill is ready.
The combat "girlfriend" of the summer resident - the shovel does a good job of working in the garden. With its help, you can dig a trench for the foundation and a hole for the seedling.
However, there are operations where this entrenching tool is ineffective and can only be replaced by a hand drill for earthworks.
There are many examples of its use. Let's take the simplest one - a hole under the fence post. With a shovel, you will not be able to quickly and compactly dig it out.
This tool requires a lot of space for "maneuvering", so instead of a hole with a diameter of 10-15 cm, you will have to dig a wide hole. Moreover, the deeper you need to dig a post, the wider it will be.
For a manual drill, such work will take two to three times less time. The pit will turn out to be compact and the earth will have to be taken out quite a bit. Let's not forget about such an important point as the preservation of the natural structure and density of the soil. Digging with a shovel breaks it, the earth becomes loose. Therefore, when backfilling, it is necessary to properly compact the soil (in layers with simultaneous wetting).
Auger hand drill for poles provides maximum speed of work and reduces its labor intensity. The depth of the pit can be 0.5 - 1.5 meters, and when using extension cords - up to 5 meters.
Where can this tool be used?
The answers to this question are obvious:
- Installation of fence posts;
- Wells-wells for water and laying of engineering networks;
- planting seedlings;
- Pile foundations (for a country house and outbuildings).
Varieties and technical characteristics of hand drills
The practical use of "vertical shovels" revealed their advantages and weaknesses. As a result, several varieties of hand drills have been developed.
The easiest garden hand drill- a tubular rod with a handle at one end and a two-bladed cutter at the other.
The simplicity of the design is a guarantee of reliability, however, apart from a shallow hole or well, you will not dig anything for them.
Second variety- a tool equipped with removable cutters of different diameters. It can be used for drilling almost all types of pits and wells.
In addition to the lamellar one, you can find a screw drill on sale.. It differs from its counterpart in that it has a screw auger behind the cutting blades. Such a tool takes more soil in one working cycle, which speeds up digging a hole.
The advanced hand drill has multiple cutters and a split stem design. This allows you to increase it, deepening to the desired mark.
The handle extension is another useful option found on deep hole drills. It is easier to work with such a tool. You can turn the handle with a partner, increasing the cutting force of the edge and the speed of penetration.
A special kind - TISE hand drills sometimes referred to as fundamental. They have a rather complex structure. It provides penetration of wide wells under the piles and creates expansions in their lower part.
Such a drill has a wide soil receiver, in which earth with small stones accumulates (diameter up to 5 cm). A special folding blade begins to work at the very end of the well, expanding the bearing part of the future reinforced concrete pile.
In addition to a flat cutting edge, some hand drills use a serrated one. It loosens the soil better, making it easier to work.
When choosing a manual drilling tool, pay attention to the technical characteristics that we mentioned above. If they do not have to work often, digging holes for planting trees and posts, it is better to buy an inexpensive drill with one cutter.
Anyone who has to dig a deep water well, install a columnar foundation or install a fence around the site, will not do without a drill with an extendable rod and a handle extension. The design of such a tool provides for the possibility of replacing cutters.
A hand drill, which can be worked together, overcomes not only sandy, but also clayey soils with the inclusion of medium-sized stones. If the soil on the site is rocky, then a hand drill will not help you. Here you will need an excavator or manual digging with a shovel with a stone excavation.
Manufacturers and estimated prices
Due to the simplicity of design and high demand, the market is represented by the products of dozens of companies. Despite this, it is better to give preference to well-known brands. These include the Zubr brand. As you can see from the photo, this tool has two helical cutters - a smaller and a larger diameter.
This facilitates the drilling process: a smaller cutter enters the ground more easily, punching a narrow channel in it. Wide it remains only to expand its walls.
The estimated price for a garden hand drill Zubr with a diameter of 300 mm without an extension rod is 2000 rubles.
For digging holes in soil contaminated with construction debris and saturated with small stones, a Tornado hand drill is intended. It is a combination of fork and vane augers.
Creating a minimum resistance to rotation, such a tip confidently passes the ground, which is poorly taken by a standard drilling tool.
The estimated cost of the Tornado drill is from 1200 rubles.
Self-made drill
The design of the "vertical shovel" is extremely simple. Therefore, its manufacture is available to a home master who has a welding machine, a drill and a grinder.
In order to make a hand drill with your own hands, you will need:
- Plumbing steel pipe for the rod (length 1.5 meters, inner diameter 15 mm);
- Steel pipe or piece of reinforcement for the handle (length 40-50 cm, diameter 20 mm);
- Drill for metal with a diameter of 15 mm;
- Disc from a circular saw (diameter 150-200 mm);
To strengthen the drill, instead of a disk, you can take a thick sheet metal (3 mm) and cut a circle of the desired diameter from it. By cutting it into two halves and sharpening the edges of each, we get a strong cutter. Its blades must be welded to the stem so that the angle between them is 30 degrees.
A drill is welded to the end of the rod, which will play the role of a guide tip. A handle is welded to the other end strictly perpendicular.
If there is excess scrap on the farm, it can also be used as the basis for a drill. A drill is not needed in this case. It will be replaced by the sharp end of the crowbar.
A more versatile design can also be done by hand. To do this, a nut is welded to the free end of the rod, and a bolt to the removable handle. Such a drill is supplied with a tubular extension. At one end, you need to weld a nut, and at the other, a bolt that fits the size of the thread.
A hard-working person always has a lot to do both at home, in the workshop, and on the garden plot. But you never know where you may need a completely simple device - a modern embodiment in metal of the principle of "Archimedean screw"!
Of course, like many other things, the designated tool, even on a gasoline engine, can now be bought at a specialized store. But for a real master, who also knows how to count his money, there is no problem in how to make a drill with your own hands.
It is enough to assemble this device of high quality and convenient for operation in order to understand how much the horizon of possibilities of a person who wishes to make his living space as comfortable and functional as possible will expand.
Hand drill for the earth, its design and purpose
As already mentioned, the drill is perhaps the simplest mechanism that converts a person’s muscular effort or an engine impulse (if we are talking about a motorized version) into the rotational-translational movement of a large “drill” (Fig. 1).
The simplicity and reliability of this device emphasizes the minimum number of its components.
Figure 1. Earth drill - a device designed for drilling holes in the ground.
If you do not take into account some additional details, then conceptually it consists of only three elements - a metal (sometimes wooden, which is worse) pole (rack) or a pipe attached to it at one end of the auger and a rotary handle (lever) attached to the other sides.
The auger, which forms a classic Archimedean screw, can have a number of additional blades for improved penetration of a particular soil mass, and the handle-lever can be made in the form of a T-shaped crossbar, a cross-shaped design, or in any other form that seems most acceptable to the customer for efficient drilling.
This device is widely used in exploration and construction work, in gardening and during men's leisure activities, which is winter ice fishing. It will greatly help a person who needs to dig several planting holes in the garden, make drainage holes in the yard, make a series of recesses for mounting piles, etc.
Depending on these and other purposes of using the tool, all drills may vary in size and have different auger configurations. However, they all operate on the same principle.
Materials and tools necessary for the manufacture of the drill
Before proceeding directly to work, you should stock up on all the necessary materials and tools. The master will need:
- a piece of gas pipe (for the manufacture of a vertical rack);
- a fragment of sheet steel of high strength (for the production of propeller blades);
- a piece of smooth reinforcement (metal rod) with a diameter of 16-20 mm (for making a handle);
- apparatus for welding;
- welding clamp;
- lathe;
- emery circle;
- electric drill;
- a set of drills for metal;
- angle grinder (grinder) with a disc for metal;
- gas key;
- mounting vice.
How to make a drill: sequence of operations
The manufacture of a drill (Fig. 2) begins with the production of its blade. For this purpose, a steel sheet is taken, from which round blanks are cut. They are made in such a way that the diameter of the circle is about 5-6 mm larger than the diameter of the planned well in the ground. For a standard drill, a minimum amount of 2 discs is sufficient.
Figure 2. Drawing of an earthen drill.
Then, central holes are drilled in round blanks. For convenient mounting on a rack, their diameter should exceed the diameter of the metal pipe - the future rack - by about 1-2 mm.
The next step is to designate the points where the disks will be attached to the rack. At these points, holes should be drilled in the pipe. For mounting disks on a lathe, metal bushings are made. They also make radial threaded holes. The bushings bolted to the post will attach the detachable auger blades to the post.
Further, with a grinder with a cutting wheel, small sectors are cut from the edge to the center in the blanks of the blades. After that, with the help of a vice and gas wrenches, the edges of the cuts are gently stretched in opposite directions. As a result, each circle should get a spiral look. To complete the preparation stage of the blades, the lower edges of their cutouts are sharpened at an angle of 50-60 degrees.
Let's go to the counter. So that the drill can easily enter the mass to be processed, at its end, where the screw will be formed, a metal drill is welded by welding. The tip itself for this purpose is sharpened at an angle of sharpening of 20-30 degrees.
The final phase in the manufacture of a hand drill is the installation of a lever handle, which will carry out the axial rotation of the entire device. To fix it on the rack, a special sleeve is used, previously machined on a lathe. The handle must be removable, since when drilling to great depths, you will probably need to extend the stand more than once with additional elbows. The manufacture of these knees should be taken care of separately.
Do-it-yourself drill: other design options
Figure 3. A - a diagram of a drill with an auger of a recycled combine harvester, B - a diagram of a drill with a pan-shaped container, C - a diagram of a drill with auger blades made from used disks.
Along with the described standard drill, it is possible to offer some other options for the manufacture of hand-held drilling fixtures, which use elements of well-known designs that have already been in use.
In particular, it is possible to make a drill, in which an auger is used, which once stood on a recycled combine harvester (Fig. 3, a). At the bottom of the auger, the diameter of which is approximately 130-150 mm, closer to the end of the rack, an auxiliary blade is mounted, made up of two old cultivator paws. They should be welded to the rack in such a way that the angle between them and the plane perpendicular to the axis of the rack is 25-30 degrees.
It is possible to manufacture a drill using a container shaped like a pan (Fig. 3, b). The specified element is mounted on the rack through a hole drilled in the center of the bottom of the container. The stand at the bottom ends with a drill with a diameter of up to 25-30 mm. Two knives are attached to the container body from opposite sides. Slots up to 40 mm wide are made in front of both knives in the bottom of the pan - through them, during the rotation of the drill, the waste soil will flow into the container and accumulate there. When filling the container, the drill is removed from the recess, the contents are poured out and lowered into the well again.
The third option, the simplest one, is a drill, in which the auger blades will be used disks, previously cut into two equal hemispheres (Fig. 3, c). These parts are welded to the metal post at their center point. Moreover, improvised blades must be attached to the rack in the same place, at a distance of at least 900 mm from the lever handle.
To impart the properties of an effective drill screw to the said semicircles, their planes must be inclined in opposite directions with respect to each other, while the angle between both planes is set at least 30 degrees. This option, despite all its simplicity, is distinguished by a very high operating efficiency - such a drill can drill a meter well with a diameter of about 15 cm in 10 minutes.
A few points to consider when making a drill
To make the drill not only of high quality, but also practical in the widest possible range of applications, a clear understanding of a number of important factors and following the relevant recommendations will help. In conclusion, they deserve special attention.
For example, in the production of a universal hand drill, which can perform operations of various purposes and volumes, it is recommended to provide that the auger blades are not welded tightly to the rack, but are removable. This circumstance, as well as the presence of a whole set of round blades of different diameters and configurations, will surely make this tool a truly multifunctional device, useful in many situations.
It is known from practice that 9- and 12-cm drill blades are best suited for drilling holes for feeding and planting seedlings of plants, wells for determining the level of groundwater, pits for installing greenhouses and installing tunnels for underground utilities. Blades with a diameter of 17 and 25 cm will best suit those who plant plants with taproots, fill the supports of various fences, fences and other small outbuildings, arrange compost pits, build wells.
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