Roll waterproofing for the bathroom under the tiles. Waterproofing the bathroom floor under the tiles - how to protect yourself and your neighbors from water leaks. Possible waterproofing methods

Waterproofing a bathroom under a tile is one of the mandatory construction measures when performing repair and finishing work. An increased level of humidity and temperature is a feature of the room, which makes it necessary to take measures to protect the walls and floors from absorbing condensation and possible water leaks. Excessive moisture and dampness can cause the spread of fungal infections and pathogenic bacteria.

Waterproofing is a set of measures designed to protect building structures from the negative effects of water. It is a mistake to believe that the tile flooring is airtight. Through the tile joints, moisture seeps under the facing tiles, creating favorable conditions for the emergence and development of mold colonies, fungi and dangerous bacteria, which have an extremely negative effect on the human body.

Waterproofing in the bathroom under the tiles is needed to protect the room from excess moisture and minimize the consequences of leaks. Liquid falling under the tiled covering penetrates to the main floors and can lead to their destruction. A good water barrier increases the life of the decorative finish and prevents premature deterioration of the concrete base.

It is especially important to ensure the proper level of waterproofing in buildings with timber ceilings (country houses, secondary building stock). The presence of a wooden floor in the bathroom calls for action to prevent rotting of wood structures in rooms with high levels of humidity.

The following areas must be waterproofed:

the entire area of the concrete base with the obligatory capture of the lower part of the wall surface (above the floor level by 20-30 cm);
the surface of the walls near the sink, washbasin, bathtub, toilet bowl, shower cabin and other plumbing fixtures, as well as at least 0.5 m away from them;
walls and plasterboard boxes at the locations of water pipes, sewer pipes;
ceiling surface to protect ceiling structures from steam (important for wooden houses) and from leaks from apartments on the floor above.

Waterproofing drywall in the bathroom is carried out over the entire area, and not only in places where there is a possibility of liquid ingress.

To understand how to choose a waterproofing for a bathroom, it is worth dealing with all types of water-repellent coatings.

Types and materials used for tiles

There are several types of materials that can be used to organize waterproofing in bathrooms and showers:

liquid and pasty impregnating compositions;
roll wrapping or sheet protective materials;
penetrating waterproofing mixtures;
coating mastics;
plastering compounds with waterproofing and leveling properties;
sprayed polymer or rubber mastics that create a film when solidified.

All protective mixtures for waterproofing have their own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account. To select a coating, the technical characteristics of the sanitary room, the complexity of the application of the material and the price category of the product are determined. 2 variants of protective coatings are considered classic for bathrooms: coating and roll (film).

Coating

Coating materials are commercially produced in the form of granules, dry powders, mastics and ready-to-use pasty mixtures. For the bathroom floor, the following types of special waterproofing mastics are most often used:

Bituminous-polymer. A paste prepared on the basis of bitumen with plasticizers and polymer fillers. Composition with excellent insulating properties, high tensile and compressive strength. It has no odor, no toxic impurities, is resistant to various aggressive chemical reagents and temperature extremes. The mixture is highly durable and adheres well to concrete surfaces. A bitumen-polymer material under ceramics is applied only if it is supposed to organize a thin concrete screed from above.

Bituminous cement. This versatile mixture is used for both waterproofing and leveling concrete substrates. Dries quickly (about 5 minutes), has good adhesion. In stores, you can find dry powdery composition or liquid mastic. Suitable for coating floors and walls, since it becomes possible to lay tiles without organizing a concrete screed. This is especially important for walls near the shower, which require mandatory protection from moisture.

Bituminous latex. Such liquid waterproofing is practically the most convenient, simple and functional way to waterproof a bathroom. Forms an even thin seamless film capable of self-healing after deformations, punctures and minor damages. It has excellent characteristics for moisture protection and elasticity. Retains performance in all conditions and for many years. Over the bitumen-latex coating, a screed, plaster or plasterboard cladding is required.

Acrylic mastic. Sealed waterproof elastic paste made on the basis of acrylic water emulsion. Forms a continuous cast waterproofing resistant to tensile forces. It is odorless, has good adhesion to various plasters and adhesives, dries quickly and is environmentally friendly. The acrylic material will not degrade or crack. The mastic is on sale ready-made, packaged in plastic buckets. For application, use a special needle roller.

Liquid coating pastes and mixtures are applied with a roller or brush. They are stacked in several layers (3-4), each 1-1.5 mm thick. Thick mastics must be spread over the surface with a spatula with a layer of at least 3 mm; for reinforcement, you can use a PVC reinforcing mesh. It is recommended to use a waterproofing coating in rooms with an area of about 7 m².

Roll materials

The glued waterproofing is a roll or film material on a bitumen or rubber base with fiberglass, polyester or fiberglass reinforcement. The seamy side is covered with a sticky substance, which creates the conditions for reliable adhesion to the base. The front side is impregnated with a special component responsible for adhesion to the tile coating.

There are 2 ways to use roll-up waterproofing: weld-on and self-adhesive. The webs to be welded are melted using a powerful hot air gun or a gas-fired torch. This method requires some skills and dexterity, therefore, more often the work on arranging waterproofing by the fusion method is entrusted to experienced builders.

Self-adhesive coating does not require the use of complex equipment, it is affordable and quick to install. After application, the material is rolled with a roller to remove air bubbles. Almost immediately you can start facing work.

The bituminous roll-up waterproofing is rolled out on a prepared, leveled and thoroughly cleaned floor surface with an overlap with an overlap of at least 10 cm of each piece and approaching the wall. There should be no gaps between the canvases, otherwise the whole work does not make sense, since there will be no tightness.

This method is recommended for large areas where cutting, fitting, etc. is practically not required. Among the advantages of film coatings, they highlight the special reliability of protection against moisture, good adhesion to the base and the absence of a temporary pause for drying (unlike mastics).

Sheet materials have elasticity, which makes them suitable for moisture protection of unstable substrates. For the organization of waterproofing a wooden floor under a tile, this coating will be the best option.

When and how to start arranging moisture protection?

Disputes about how and when to make waterproofing in the bathroom or shower do not subside between professional finishers, builders and amateurs. There are several options for resolving this issue:

Required materials and tools

For the correct organization of the work process, you should prepare the necessary materials, fixtures and tools in advance.

When waterproofing the bathroom, you will need:

waterproofing protective compound or film;
reinforcing mesh (for the subfloor);
deep penetration primer;
a mixture for self-leveling floors or a simple cement mortar;
self-adhesive rubber permeable tape.

To apply waterproofing, you will need the following tools:

brushes (large and small),
long handle roller;
metal spatula;
great building rule;
garbage collection devices (broom, vacuum cleaner);
building level;
a bucket for mixing the compositions;
profile beacons.

Features of waterproofing walls in the bathroom

In the bathroom, for the organization of waterproofing walls, it is recommended to use cement-polymer pastes. Bituminous compositions should not be taken, since they exfoliate over time. It must be remembered that they all have a persistent and unpleasant smell of bitumen.

It is important to follow the technology when performing work. First, it is necessary to glue the joints of the wall and floor with a special waterproofing adhesive rubber tape. The pipes are additionally protected with waterproofing collars. Then a primer is applied to the walls in two layers, especially you need to carefully monitor the processing of the corners and the area of the exit of the pipes.

The required places of processing are coated with a layer of waterproofing, then after final drying to improve adhesion to the tile adhesive, the walls are treated with concrete contact (special deep penetration primer). To increase the reliability, it is envisaged to recess a reinforcing mesh into the insulating coating. For facing with tiles, they are taken after the complete and final drying of all layers.

And the floor

Waterproofing the bathroom floor under the tiles of the combined type has some features:

The old base is dismantled (if required). The surface is thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt.
A layer of primer is applied.
Beacons are placed and the screed is poured with a layer of 3 cm, laying a reinforcing mesh in it.
After 5-7 days, the concrete surface must be cleaned of dust particles and apply a primer in 2 layers with a brush or roller.
Around the entire perimeter of the bathroom, the joints of the walls with the floor are thickly coated with a waterproof mixture, then the corners are carefully glued with waterproof adhesive tape.
Covering the entire floor area with a coating mastic, also covering the walls at least 20 cm. Waterproofing is applied in a second layer only after the previous one has dried. 2-3 layers are laid, strictly observing the drying time of each of them.
Completely dried waterproofing is primed.
A day later, a second thin concrete screed (from 1.5 cm) is poured and waited for several days.
The surface is primed with concrete contact.
The tiles can be laid on the floor after they have dried completely.

Work on the organization of waterproofing the base for the tiles can be done independently. By choosing high-quality materials and carefully observing the technology of the work, it will be possible to protect the room from the negative effects of excessive moisture and dampness, as well as from possible leaks and floods.

The bathroom is one of the wettest rooms, both in a city apartment and in a private house. Therefore, the floors in the bathroom, regardless of the material from which they are made, need high-quality insulation, otherwise water leaks through the floor slabs, the formation of fungus, mold, and the gradual destruction of structures are possible.

Types of waterproofing

Materials for waterproofing the floor are:

Lined with waterproofing impregnation, produced in the form of rolls;
Lubricants in the form of mastics, as well as pastes, liquids on various bases;
Dry mixes for dilution with water;
Penetrating waterproofing for concrete impregnation;
Hydraulic barriers based on rubber or polymer.

All types of waterproofing have their own characteristics that determine the scope of their application. In bathrooms, gluing or coating materials based on bitumen, rubber or polymers are most often used.

Waterproofing the floor with a gluing method

Rolled materials based on bitumen, improved with polymers, with a reinforcing layer of fiberglass or synthetic materials. They are floating, requiring heating during installation, and self-adhesive. For the bathroom, it is better to use roll materials with a self-adhesive base, since floating ones require the use of a gas burner, which is not always convenient and feasible in an apartment. In addition, when heated, they emit a strong bitumen odor, which does not fade out of the bathroom for a long time.

The technology of covering a concrete floor with self-adhesive roll materials

The floor is leveled by eliminating cracks, depressions and bumps. The difference in height should not be more than 2 cm. Sweep it with a brush and vacuum.
The sub-floor is covered with a bituminous primer and allowed to dry out.
Cut the roll material along the length of the floor, leaving a margin on the walls of at least 15-20 cm on each side.

Lay the strips on the floor, overlapping them. The laid roll material is carefully rolled with a hard roller to remove air bubbles and better adhesion. The joints are additionally coated with sealant.

At the joints and around the pipes, waterproofing should be installed especially carefully. The pipes additionally need to be insulated with rubber seals, and the places where they fit to the waterproofing should be additionally coated with sealant.
On top of the roll material, immediately after laying it, you can make a concrete screed, and then lay the topcoat. Tiles are most often used as finishing of such a floor.

The need for a screed increases the laboriousness of the gluing method for waterproofing the bathroom floor, but in general this method is cheaper. If heated floors are performed in the bathroom, and a screed device with a thickness of at least 5 cm is implied in any case, waterproofing the floor in the bathroom with a pasting method is more expedient. Reinforcing polypropylene fiber can be added to the screed to increase its strength.

Floor waterproofing coating

With the development of technologies and the appearance on the market of a large selection of materials for coating waterproofing of the floor, it is gradually replacing the pasting. It is performed using mastics of various compositions: bitumen-polymer, bitumen-rubber, cement-polymer. The composition of mastics includes various fillers and plasticizers, thanks to which it increases its elasticity and strength. Fillers in the mastic can be in the form of fibers or chips. Most modern mastics also contain components that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.

Most manufacturers also produce primers with increased adhesion to the floor and mastic on the same basis. When waterproofing, it is best to follow the advice of the mastic manufacturer and use the primer specified by him.

The technology of applying coating waterproofing on a concrete floor

The preparation of the floor when applying the coating insulation is minimal - it is enough to sweep it and remove debris. Wet cleaning is not recommended; it is better to thoroughly vacuum the floor.
The floor is covered with a primer using a roller until its surface is completely impregnated. If the floor is highly absorbent, it is covered two or even three times. Special polymer-based primers not only improve the adhesion of the mastic, but also create an initial layer of waterproofing.
The corners and joints with the walls must be glued with a special tape with sealing properties. Rubber seals are put on the pipes, the floor joints with them are also glued with tape.

The mastic is bred according to the manufacturer's recommendation. In consistency, it is similar to warm plasticine. It is convenient to apply the mastic with a hard roller, and in knocks and corners - with a brush. For good waterproofing, the mastic is also applied to the walls, to a height of at least 20 cm.

The mastics dry for about a day. During this time, you must not walk on the floor, and also allow dust, moisture, and foreign objects to get on it. Dried waterproofing can be finished with tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Waterproofing the bathroom floor using mastics on a bitumen or cement-polymer base has a small thickness, while it is durable and reliable. However, it is only suitable for concrete floors. If the coatings in the house are wooden, this waterproofing may not be sufficient.

In this case, they are used using two-component rubber-based compositions. They consist of directly liquid rubber (liquid rubber) and an activator, which is necessary for its hardening.

Waterproofing technology for wooden coatings

Preparing a wooden floor for covering requires some effort and expense - after all, the rubber compound should not penetrate through it, otherwise its consumption will sharply increase. The subfloor is cleaned of dirt, logs, a vapor barrier film and insulation plates are laid on it. Expanded polystyrene can be used as a heater; it forms a hard, smooth surface. The joints between the plates and the joists are sealed with a sealant. If mineral mats are used as insulation, a layer of waterproof plywood must be laid on top.

They mix liquid rubber with an activator and quickly apply it to the floor using a roller, carefully smearing the knocks on the floor and walls.
Waiting for the liquid rubber to dry and assess the quality of the waterproofing - its surface should be smooth and uniform. Apply a second layer if necessary.
The topcoat is produced in the usual way. It should be borne in mind that the adhesion of conventional tile adhesive to rubber compounds is usually insufficient, therefore, it is necessary to perform a screed using a reinforcing mesh.

This method of waterproofing can be used not only for wooden surfaces, but also for concrete ones. The quality of waterproofing with this method allows it to be used even in particularly humid rooms, including the pool and the washing section of the bath.

When waterproofing a bathroom floor using any of the above methods, it is important to adhere to the recommendations of the material manufacturer, especially regarding the drying time of the coating. Insufficient exposure of the coating waterproofing can lead to its cracking after finishing work.

Both during the construction and during the renovation of the bathroom, it is very important to pre-waterproof the floor in the bathroom under the tiles, especially if there are rooms below and you want to avoid flooding them in the event of a possible breakdown in communications. Let's take a look at a number of materials that are commonly used for this purpose.

Why do waterproofing under the cladding

Imagine that during water procedures, a certain amount of water splashed out of the bathroom on the floor and in such a situation ask yourself whether waterproofing is needed in the bathroom under the tiles. There are no floors absolutely impervious to liquid, often there are gaps at the joints between the slabs, minor gaps near the pipes of communications passing through the floors. Accordingly, water will easily seep down, and if this happens in an apartment, the decoration of the neighbors' premises may be seriously affected. Well, in a private house, the damage will be done to you, which is also unpleasant. Waterproofing will prevent this from happening, and with high thresholds, you will have enough time to react until the water rushes into the hallway.

Filling the rooms located one floor below, water can go through the channels made for electrical wiring and cause a short circuit and, as a result, a fire.

But flooding is not the only problem that can arise from frequent wetting of floor tiles. Leaking between the seams of the cladding, where the tile grout is not done well enough, water begins to gradually saturate and then destroy the concrete, regardless of whether it is treated with soils or not. Therefore, it is advisable to thoroughly cover concrete surfaces with coating mixtures or special films in order to isolate them from possible moisture ingress. Water can get under the tiles even with good grouting, in the places where it adjoins communications or along the edge of the cladding along the walls. In this case, dampness will be an ideal environment for the appearance of mold, which is harmful to both building materials and the health of residents. Waterproofing can solve this problem too.

How to use waterproofing correctly - the main places of processing

It is necessary to protect from moisture penetration not only the floor, but also partially the walls. As a rule, the most problematic areas are those corners of the room where the baseboards are located, that is, along the walls along the perimeter. Therefore, when processing with waterproofing, it is recommended to capture vertical surfaces, at least 10 centimeters, and preferably 0.3 meters up. However, there are areas that require special attention. In particular, in places where pipes pass through ceilings, whether it is a water supply system or a sewage system. Around the communications, waterproofing should be laid especially carefully. If it is a mastic coating or a pasty plaster mixture, then in several layers.

You also need waterproofing of the walls of the bathroom, where the plumbing will be installed, so that water does not get under the tiles. Often, during water procedures, it happens that a hand accidentally grips the mixer tap and the jet hits the wall. It is in such situations that moisture flowing down the tile can get under the cladding where it is not made of very high quality. Therefore, it is recommended to necessarily cover the entire area with waterproofing, where water can accidentally or inevitably, as, for example, when the shower is turned on. This is 50 centimeters to the sides and up from the sink, 0.5 meters to the sides of the bath and from it up to the ceiling. You should not bypass the water closet either, since condensation often accumulates on the tank, and the likelihood of a leak should not be ruled out.

Materials used as waterproofing

If you plan to protect the bathroom floor from all-pervading moisture, you have a fairly wide choice. Today, several types of waterproofing materials are distinguished: coating mastic compounds, pasty plaster polymer-cement mixtures and films for pasting roll format... There are also separate penetrating compounds that, after drying, close the microcracks and voids between the grains in the concrete, providing a sufficient degree of moisture resistance. A spray-on waterproofing based on liquid rubber can also be mentioned as a separate material.

Among other things, special water panels are used as an additional insulating coating, which cover the floor and, in part, the walls. Already on top, any of the listed materials is applied or glued, which provides multi-layer waterproofing in combination with primers for concrete surfaces. Lubricating compositions are made on the basis of mastics, including bitumen, and also latex is used as the main component, in combination with it or separately from it, very fine rubber crumb is added. A number of roll materials also have a bitumen base. Cement compositions are necessarily supplemented with plasticizers, often polymeric. Let's take a closer look at the existing options.

Mastic compositions - varieties, features of use

Compositions for coating surfaces can be applied with a roller or brush, that is, their consistency is quite liquid. These are the so-called mastic waterproofing mixtures, which are made on the basis of bitumen resins or polymers. There are formulations with latex as a plasticizer. It is quite easy to process the floor and walls with them, they have excellent adhesion and often there is no need to even specially prime the surfaces, it is enough to clean them of dust and dirt. Some mixtures can only be used with an organic solvent.

A special mesh with a hydro-barrier strip is laid on top of the coating in the corners, and it is better to choose options for the corners, after which another layer of mastic is applied. This provides the most reliable waterproofing.

The main requirement for such coatings is to cover the floor and walls with them at moderate air humidity and at a temperature of 20 degrees or higher. This is a definite disadvantage, since it is necessary to create certain conditions for work. Cold makes these mixtures hard and brittle, especially if the solidification process occurs at low temperatures. Another drawback is the very long drying of the applied waterproofing, especially since the layer must be thick enough. The advantages of such compositions include a rather low price, which allows them to be used in large volumes of work. In addition, they are easy to find on sale, and the choice is quite extensive.

Polymer cement compositions - use cases, advantages and disadvantages

The simplest solution is to make a concrete screed by adding it to the building mixture, but this option still does not solve the problem with joints near the walls, where you need to leave some gap when pouring. Therefore, special pasty compositions based on cement with the addition of polymers or other plasticizers are much more effective. It is a dry waterproofing for a bathroom in paper bags, which must be diluted with water, after which a thick paste is obtained. Its advantage is that cement provides strength after drying, and polymers, penetrating into any cracks and microcracks, create a film to isolate the floor from water.

Like mastic compounds, cementitious mixes are available and very inexpensive. This is their main advantage. In addition, another plus in the ease of processing with mixtures of surfaces, a conventional spatula is used for this. The polymer-cement composition is diluted to the consistency of thick sour cream, after which it is applied in portions to the floor and walls, and smoothed. Areas where pipes pass in the ceiling are more convenient to brush with a brush, rubbing the mixture into the slots. The composition begins to harden after 5 minutes, but for the complete completion of the polymerization process, at least a day must pass before further finishing can be started. Such a long drying time is a significant disadvantage.

Roll waterproofing - a small analysis of existing options

Perhaps the fastest way to deal with the treatment of the floor and walls in the bathroom using special films or other materials sold in rolls. Among them there are those that are applied by heating, or self-adhesive. The second type is more convenient, it is enough to remove the special protective coating to expose the adhesive layer. The most affordable option is surfacing materials with bitumen impregnation, such as roofing felt and roofing felt, which must be heated with an open flame, for example, with a gasoline or gas burner, until the mass on the back side becomes sufficiently sticky. The main disadvantage of this type is a pungent odor that does not disappear from the room for a long time. Also, the disadvantages include fragility. The main advantage is low cost.

Self-adhesive materials are in some respects more convenient because they do not require much effort. As already mentioned, the protection breaks down and that's it, you can gently apply it to the surface. However, difficulties arise when pasting those places where communications pass. Cutting the membranes is not recommended, and if pressed as it is, folds may form. Alternatively, you can combine films with mastic compositions, this will allow you to well isolate difficult places. It is enough to warm up bituminous ones to get neat connections, so it is difficult to judge which waterproofing of the bathroom under the tiles is more convenient and which is better to use. But self-adhesive roll materials have an undoubted advantage - they are very durable, and in relation to quality, the price does not look too high.

Laying the coating in the bathroom, toilet - must necessarily provide for protection from moisture. At the same time, the waterproofing of the floor under the tiles is done in different ways, using both very inexpensive and effective roll materials, and using mastics, as well as special one-component compounds. Each of the methods used differs both in the level of financial investment and in the general requirements for the qualifications of the performer.

Waterproofing for laying tiles in the bathroom is done very carefully. It is not only the relatively large amount of moisture that is often present on the floor that plays a role. The task is to provide protection against steam and condensation.

This is important for a variety of reasons:

it is necessary to ensure that there are no leaks to the lower floor or to the basement;
it is required to protect the floors from the destructive effects of moisture;
steam, penetrating into concrete and other structural materials, acts negatively, causing rotting, corrosion, destruction and a decrease in the general temperature and strength characteristics of the walls.

When carrying out waterproofing work under the tiles, you need to pay attention to every little thing. To guarantee the durability of the coating, it is necessary to level the floor and walls as carefully as possible. Then the loads on the tiles will be evenly distributed, there will be no danger of splitting due to pressure, lagging of individual elements, cracks due to temperature deformations.

Leveling the floor surface is mandatory, in the case of a relatively smooth surface, cracks and depressions are sealed with putty. If there are strong irregularities, it is recommended to remove the old one and make a new thin concrete screed reinforced with plastic mesh.

Application of roll materials

Tiles can be laid on a waterproofing base created using roll materials. This type of insulator is only applicable for floor protection.

In this case, a distinction is made between:

floor covering;
deposited materials;
self-adhesive waterproofing.

On a prepared, flat, debris-free floor surface, treated with anti-mildew primers, it is easiest to lay floor-type roll insulators. It can be roofing material, one-sided penetration membranes (which also have a vapor barrier), thick polymer films.

The nature of the work may differ depending on the material

If polymer films, membranes, non-woven material are used, the stripes are placed along the length of the covered area, with an overlap of 5-10 cm. The joining lines are glued with tape.

Working with roofing felt and other materials containing bitumen or viscous polymer compositions can be carried out in two ways. The first is the use of mastics. The overlap zone of the strips is carefully coated, the seam is rolled with a roller. The second is temperature exposure. You can use a hot air gun or a special soldering iron. The adhesive tape method also shows acceptable results.

The use of overlay coatings implies intense temperature exposure. In this case, the gas burner acts as the main tool. Since ventilation problems can arise in the limited space of the bathroom, heat guns or high-power building hair dryers can be used. Particular attention is paid to the overlap zone when fusing the coating onto the base. It must be thoroughly warmed up, pressed, smoothed.

When working with fusion materials, respiratory protection measures should be taken if open flames are used. It is also necessary to take into account all fire safety rules and do not work with fire if the characteristics of the building do not allow such actions.

A separate segment of waterproofing agents is roll materials containing bitumen, which have a ready-made adhesive base. It is convenient to apply them; for this, the protective film gradually peels off directly from the roll during deployment. All work can be done by one person.

The use of roll-up waterproofing materials in preparation for laying tiles must be carried out, observing a few simple rules:

the perimeter is thoroughly coated with bitumen or mastics;
a film or other type of coating is laid so that the material "fits" on the wall by 10-15 cm;
for waterproofing the perimeter, a special adhesive tape can be used, excellent performance is shown by brands that are warmed up with a construction hairdryer.

To work with roll materials, you do not need a special tool (with the exception of gas burners, if you choose a floating type waterproofing). You will need a knife, tape measure, chalk or pencil, as well as a debris brush and smoothing roller.

Working with roll-up waterproofers is simple and low-cost. Can be used as a classic roofing felt, roofing felt, and materials based on fiberglass, polyester. On top of the formed protective layer, a thin concrete screed with reinforcement is made.

Technology for working with lubricants

Excellent protection performance is observed if applied waterproofing coating. This technology has several advantages:

you can protect not only the floor, but also the walls, ceiling;
there is no need to carefully level the floor surface;
the liquid composition, after hardening, forms a perfectly smooth surface, perfect for laying tiled covering;
modern compounds can also work as a means of leveling the floor.

Lubricating waterproofing can be carried out with bituminous mastics or special polymer compounds. For work, you do not need a complex, unusual tool. You will have to work with a spatula, brushes, rubbing roller.

If the floor surface is large, spray equipment can be used, but such work requires the use of expensive equipment and high-cost acrylic water-based emulsion compositions.

It is necessary to work with the lubricating compounds carefully, not missing a single speck on the surface. In the case of polymer-based liquid formulations, they are poured out and distributed over the floor surface. At the same time, waterproofing with bituminous mastics does not remove the need to make a concrete screed, on the surface of which the tiles will then be laid.

Additional information: Optimal in terms of price, coating quality, ease of work - looks like a composition based on cement and polymer mastic. It is fluid enough to be smoothed out easily. Forms a perfectly smooth surface. It has an attractive price for the consumer. The level of strength is such that there is no need to lay the screed - with the help of a cement-polymer composition, you can bring the floor height to the desired value.

Application of one-component mastics

A waterproofing material such as one-component mastics belongs to the latest generation of floor and wall treatments for tiling. They have the property of adhesion of layers, therefore they do not form seams, ensuring the creation of a monolithic and durable coating. Lubricating waterproofing using one-component mastics has a number of advantages:

there are no seams, neither horizontally within one layer, nor vertically, within the thickness of the entire coating;
weak spots of the coating are not observed, it is as tight as possible;
it is not difficult to apply the composition, you can work with a brush and a roller;
making waterproofing with one-component mastics, it is easy to guarantee protection against mold, growth of fungus, microorganisms.

It is always worth remembering one main property of one-component formulations. Once dry, the waterproofing does not protect against steam penetration. In some cases, this is useful - the room "breathes". But in most options, this property of the mastic acts as a disadvantage, therefore, a one-component composition is often used in combination with simple film protection against moisture.

Waterproofing with one-component mastic is done in compliance with a number of rules:

Each layer applied must dry. The time depends on the specific indicators of humidity and temperature, therefore, before applying a new portion of the composition, check the stickiness of the product to be dried - the composition should not remain on the fingers.
If it is necessary to create a thick layer and thus raise the overall level of the floor, the best performance is achieved using fine quartz sand. Each layer of mastic is sprinkled before final drying in order to achieve maximum adhesion indicators with the subsequent one.
Sand should be removed from the top layer of the mastic. A small brush is suitable for this.

After the waterproofing with one-component mastic is ready, it is required to allow time for the final polymerization. The fact that the top layer does not stick to the fingers is not a sufficient indicator. Before proceeding with the installation of the tiled coating, you need to wait from 1 to three days. The amount of time is best learned from the recommendations given by the manufacturer of one-component mastic.

As a conclusion

Waterproofing the floor for laying tiles has a clearly defined work procedure. If the stage of laying the protective surface depends on the specific material chosen, then the general course of the preparatory operations is mandatory.

The surface is leveled, cleaned from dust using shields and a vacuum cleaner. If there are cracks or areas of deteriorating coating, they are removed. Putties are used to fill the cavities.

If there are large differences in height and holes on the floor, remove the old one and make a new thin reinforced concrete screed. By performing all the work carefully and carefully, you can guarantee that both the waterproofing and the tiled flooring will work efficiently and last a very long time without causing trouble.

The bathroom is one of the most difficult spaces from a technical point of view. Most of the utilities are located here; they need to be provided with unhindered access to perform routine maintenance and repair work. In addition, these communications create increased risks of unpleasant situations.

The optimum flooring for bathrooms is ceramic tiles. It has excellent performance characteristics, its use makes it possible to obtain not only beautiful and wear-resistant, but also waterproof coatings. Today, there is a large selection of waterproofing compounds on the building materials market, all of which have excellent physical properties and reliability. But only on one condition - the application technology will be strictly observed.

Table. What waterproofing materials can be used in bathrooms.

Waterproofing name	Brief description and properties
	They are sealed coatings, most often used for cement-sand or concrete screeds. These types of waterproofing include plastic wrap. Depending on the characteristics of the material, the hot or cold method can be used for waterproofing.
	Universal use, widely used for waterproofing both horizontal and vertical surfaces. Produced on the basis of polymers or modified bitumen, may have additional additives to improve physical characteristics.
	They are rarely used for bathrooms under tiles. They contain polymers that can withstand significant linear vibrations.

General requirements for waterproofing a bathroom floor under tiles

Modern building technologies involve a wide range of applications for waterproofing materials. But professionals advise to use them very carefully, sometimes harmful consequences dominate over positive ones. What to look for when making a final decision?

The bathroom is a room with the most difficult operating conditions. High humidity has an extremely negative effect on all building materials and architectural structural elements. For the finishing coat of bathroom floors, ceramic tiles are most often used. This material is absolutely impermeable to moisture; if the installation technology is followed, additional waterproofing is not required. Modern grouting for tile joints is characterized by the same properties. Conclusion - if you laid the tiles correctly and carefully sealed the tile joints, then this is quite enough for normal waterproofing. Why is it still recommended to use it?

To minimize the consequences of emergency water breakthroughs. The bathroom has a lot of plumbing, connections, seals, etc. Each of them can suddenly fail, resulting in abundant leaks. Only general waterproofing can save the situation for a while. To do this, the bathroom floor must be below the hallway floor. If this requirement is not met, then the flooding of adjacent premises is inevitable and no amount of waterproofing will help.
When using the bathroom, tiles are sometimes mechanically damaged. Cracks in the tiles allow water to pass through, and this can cause water to penetrate the base of the flooring. The optimal solution is the timely replacement of damaged tiles. But not in all cases this can be done in the shortest possible time; for the period before replacement, the floor tightness is ensured by waterproofing.

This is what the current regulations recommend. In practice, waterproofing is often used everywhere for only one purpose - to increase the estimated cost of construction. Developers should be aware that applying waterproofing under the tiles in the bathroom without fulfilling the preconditions is ineffective in terms of protecting structures from moisture. The application of various mastics to the base is not an initial stage, but the final operation in a whole complex of special construction measures to protect structures from moisture penetration.

Step-by-step instructions for applying waterproofing

Before applying waterproofing, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, due to which the quality and reliability are significantly increased. As a baseline, we take into account that the floor level in the bathroom is lower than the floor level with adjacent rooms. The screed is made taking into account the requirements of building codes and regulations. Modern cement-based mastic will be used for waterproofing. This material meets the existing requirements in all its indicators.

Step 1. Preparation of the base. A very important point, you should not try to save time and do waterproofing immediately for an unprepared foundation.

Important! Moisten them with plenty of water before filling the gaps. Use a household spray gun or ordinary brush for this.

Step 2. Carefully study the instructions for using waterproofing. Prepare your tools. You will need a container for the material, a roller and a brush, an assembly knife, and a drill with a mixing attachment. It is recommended to work with gloves on.

Step 3. Proceed with the corners and outlets of the sewer pipes, if any in the floor. We have already mentioned that these places require the utmost attention. To seal the catch, you need to use elastic tape for the seams. The width of the tape, depending on the manufacturer, is about 10 cm, the material is sold in rolls 2–2.5 m long. The tape is made on the basis of a plastic mesh, which is used when plastering vertical surfaces. A waterproof polymer or synthetic rubber pad is glued to the mesh. Thanks to the use of modern technologies, it is possible to obtain a durable and flexible material with a fairly high elasticity. Such indicators allow the elastic tape to compensate for possible vibrations of surfaces without violating its integrity, which is very important during waterproofing of a bathroom under floor tiles.

The tape must be glued in this sequence.

Measure the distance between the opposite walls, make a margin for hem at the corners. The amount of fold on each side must be at least ten centimeters. Cut off the excess with ordinary scissors or an assembly knife.

Practical advice! Try to use a whole piece of tape on each wall. Plan your cutting in such a way as to minimize waste of material. Remember that each additional seam on the tape increases the chance of leaks.

When preparing the material, respect the proportions of water and dry component. First, you always need to pour water into the container, and then add the dry mixture to it. It is recommended to mix with a drill with a mixing nozzle at low speeds, at high speeds, air bubbles are formed. The time of the first mixing is at least five minutes, this is the only way to achieve the complete disappearance of lumps. After the first stirring, the mixture should stand for 10-15 minutes, then work again with a mixer. Apply the mastic very carefully, do not leave gaps. The length of the section to be prepared depends on two factors - the speed of drying of the mastic and the professional skills of the performer. The first data is indicated on the packaging, and the second is determined by the practical experience of the master.

Fold the tape in half on a flat surface. This is done in order to facilitate its installation in the corner of the abutment. Apply the tape to fresh mastic and press firmly into the mortar. Be sure to even out folds and sharp bends. Do not forget to make transitions from one wall to another in the corners. Along the edges of the tape there are mesh strips free of fillers, through which a waterproofer should appear.
After the tape has been installed along the entire length of one wall, apply a second layer of waterproofing to it. The rubberized or polymer strip may not close a second time, but this is optional.

Step 4. Proceed with the first coat of waterproofing coat. This can be done with a wide spatula or a hard-bristled brush. The main condition is that the mastic should not only cover the entire surface without gaps, but also rub into it as hard as possible.

Practical advice! Each manufacturer indicates on the packaging the rate of material consumption per square meter. As practice shows, the actual consumption increases by about 15–20%, keep this in mind when purchasing mastic. Do not allow a break in work due to a lack of material, this situation has an extremely negative effect on the quality of waterproofing.

Step 5. After applying the first layer, you need to give it time to set. Most materials take 6-12 hours to complete. Specific parameters depend on the thickness of the mastic, humidity and temperature in the room, the presence of natural ventilation. Before applying the second coat, check the hardness of the first one. The mastic should be able to withstand the weight of a person without any problems, deflections and dents are not allowed. If the mastic is not hard enough, then it is strictly forbidden to start applying the second layer.

It is better to move the brush during the second application perpendicular to the first one, due to this, the tightness of the base under the tiles is improved. You can start laying the tiles no earlier than 24 hours after the completion of the waterproofing work. Tile laying is carried out according to all well-known technologies and has no differences.

Waterproofing under the slab with polyurethane mastics

In terms of quality, the materials differ little from those previously described based on cement, but there are certain nuances in the application technology. Polyurethane mastics create seamless coatings, have universal use and meet the requirements of regulations for the installation of floors in rooms with high humidity. The preparation of the screed surface is the same as for other types of waterproofing. Further work is performed according to this algorithm.

Step 1. Surface priming. A special two-component primer is used. Pour the contents of the small into a large container and mix the ingredients thoroughly. The drill should have a minimum speed, stir until the solution is completely homogeneous.

Practical advice! If there are cracks or critical irregularities on the surface of the screed, then they can be repaired with a primer. Pour some of the material into a separate container and add dry, sifted sand until a thick consistency is obtained. The resulting solution has high mechanical strength and at the same time does not allow water to pass through.

The repair compound is applied to the surface with a spatula; after completion of work to eliminate surface defects, the areas must dry for at least two hours.

Step 2. Pour the primer onto the floor and rub it evenly into the cement-sand screed. The thickness of the layer is about 0.2 mm, divide the bathroom into zones, start finishing the floor from the extreme wall and gradually move towards the exit. Do not forget to finish with a primer and walls around the perimeter of the bath, the height of the coating should be several centimeters higher than the width of the elastic tape for the seams.

Step 3. Stir the polymer waterproofer thoroughly and start applying it to the coating. It is recommended to work with a roller and a brush. With the help of a roller, the flat areas of the screed are trimmed, and the joints and other hard-to-reach places are smeared with a brush. The consumption of the first layer is up to 700 g / m 2, but these indicators may vary depending on the specific brand of waterproofing and the actual characteristics of the screed. If you have a higher consumption, it's okay, you need to be wary if the consumption is much less than the recommended one, which means that the layer thickness does not correspond to the recommended values.

Step 4. After the first layer has dried, you can start finishing the surface a second time. The technological break is 4-6 hours, the specific values depend on the manufacturer and the baseline conditions. Prepare the material for use and apply it using the same technology. Some well-known manufacturers produce the same waterproofer with different colors. This greatly simplifies the quality control of coatings. The first layer is most often black, and the second - any light. This contrast makes it possible to control not only the gaps of the second coating, but also its thickness. If the black color does not show through, everything is fine. If in some areas black color is noticeable, then it is necessary to increase the thickness of the second layer.

Step 5. Until the second layer of mastic has hardened, it should be sprinkled with dry sifted sand. Sand consumption 1.5–2.0 kg / m 2, fraction size 0.3–0.8 mm. It is not necessary to immerse the sand in the mastic.

Step 6. Allow time for complete polymerization of the mastic and remove loose sand from the surface with a broom. The presence of glued sand on the surface of the mastic significantly increases the coefficient of adhesion of the coating with tile adhesive. We recommend using this technology in all cases when the tile adhesive has direct contact with polymer substrates.

Prices for popular types of polyurethane mastic

polyurethane mastic