Make your own corner cabinet yourself. Do-it-yourself corner wardrobe: diagrams, important tips. Installation of fronts and seat bases

Without a kitchenette - a corner sofa in addition to and, chairs or a bench - modern life is already unthinkable. It makes sense to make a kitchen corner with your own hands not only for the sake of saving money: not all of the commercial models will definitely fit into a free corner of the kitchen, and a suitable size may not fit in design or price. A kitchen corner is a piece of furniture that is not complicated, but a novice craftsman, not properly equipped with rather expensive equipment, is on the way to translating it into a product stumble upon many pitfalls... This article is about how to get around them and still make a corner in the kitchen at home, not inferior to the factory one.

Note: the secret of coziness that the kitchen corner creates is in its aesthetic self-sufficiency. A corner sofa with a table and stools / bench is a self-zoned piece of furniture, it will create an area of calmness and well-being, a kind of virtual bay window or alcove, and in an open field or shed.

What to do

It is possible to make a kitchen corner in different designs. The main requirements for a kitchenette are compactness, convenience (ergonomics) and hygiene in the kitchen. We still need to achieve maximum savings in money, materials and labor by working with a publicly available tool. Based on this, we will choose which of them can be made easier and better.

The main types of kitchen corners are shown in the photo. Pos. 1 - bay window corner, round or faceted. For each rider at knee level, an optimum seat width of approx. 400-450 mm. The bay window corner is extremely comfortable and cozy, but, alas, it is complicated, expensive and requires an extensive kitchen.

A half-window corner will fit in the kitchen of a modern apartment higher than the middle class: the side sections are straight, and the width of the corner at the knee level is 200-300 mm, pos. 2. For a person of average build, sitting in the corner of a half-window corner is almost as comfortable as in a bay window. In a kitchen of ordinary dimensions, corners with a beveled corner are most often placed instead of half-window; in them, 150-200 mm fall on the rider's knees, pos. 3. You won't turn around especially, but, sitting calmly, there are no thoughts of where to put your knees.

Lovers in a small kitchen most often make straight corners, pos. 4, with a backrest wedge in the corner, pos. 5, and with a beveled back, pos. 5. Their convenience, technological complexity and cost are increasing in this row, but straight kitchen corners have a common positive property: if instead of a pair of stools on the long side of the kitchen table, the bench is the same height as the corner seats, then, moving the table and moving the bench, you can get a sleeping place with a width of 600-850 mm. Very expensive and equipped with sophisticated mechanisms, branded kitchen corners with a berth are not at all more convenient, see fig. left. The corner with a beveled corner also has the property of transformation into a sleeping place without additional devices, if the corners of the seat of the complete bench are acc. beveled in a manner.

Note: in fig. on the right is a perverse product of modern marketing - an expensive straight kitchenette. In fact, the straight corner is the most uncomfortable of all. Much more inconvenient than the closest relative - a corner with a wedge in the back. A straight kitchen corner is well suited except for planting an unwanted guest in a corner. But he will not be able to leave in English; he will have to move the owners away.

Corners with a beveled corner and a back are often complemented by a table and / or a bar in the corner, pos. 7-9. The first two are not an option: it is inconvenient to get something from behind, and it is easy to push or overturn inadvertently. If the owners are firmly subject to prejudices and do not want to put anyone in a corner, then it is better to equip a mini-sideboard with a chest and a bar in the corner, as in pos. nine.

At pos. 6, 7 and 8 show corners with the so-called. hanging angle, i.e. not having a separate support. Kitchen corners with hanging corners, made of laminated chipboard, are no less strong and durable than with supporting ones, but in production they are cheaper and more technologically advanced. However, they cannot be modular (see below), since are initially performed only with right or left. For the consumer, their apparent cheapness, tk. Hanging angle corner cannot be transported assembled and requires assembly on site.

Modular corners

Kitchen corners made of unconnected pieces of furniture (modular, see fig.) Are good for production and sale: there is no need to make right and left versions. They are also appreciated by amateurs who often rearrange furniture; modular kitchen corners look good in studio apartments of laconic styles, such as loft, hi-tech, minimalism. But the functional with ergonomics of the modular kitchen corners, to put it simply, are not at all - you cannot put anything in them, and it is uncomfortable to sit in the corner.

Note: kitchen corners of a traditional type are also made modular, from 3 separate items - a pair of sofas and a corner. Right or left, they are placed, turning the angle by 90 degrees, and one of the sofas by 180. However, such corners are more expensive, because extra material is required at the corner and its design becomes more complicated. It is very difficult to make a modular kitchen corner at home, because to the required mating accuracy of parts within the 1st object (see below), the accuracy of mating objects is added to each other.

As it should and it is not necessary

The first mistake when designing a kitchen corner is a table with legs and straight facades of the seats, pos. 1 in fig. The secret of coziness and self-zoning of the kitchen corner is in its compactness and convenience, but here you can't really move the table, and its legs get tangled in the knees of 3 sitting people. The corner for the kitchen must be made under the table of the beam-panel structure, pos. 2 and 3, and the facades of the seats are either chamfered (pos. 2), or with raised bottoms of the chests under the seats, pos. 3.

The second mistake - do not make drawers under the seats, pos. 4 and 5. They interfere with each other, spoil the floor. To get to the contents of the boxes, you need to move the table far away and kneel. If the house is maintained by a maid with a housekeeper, and the owner does not care about their worries, then a kitchen corner with drawers is a matter of taste. And for ourselves we need to make a corner in the kitchen with chests under folding or removable seats.

Get down to business!

Which corner is best for you in the kitchen is at your discretion. And here we will see what difficulties you will have to face, making it at home without experience, and how to cope with them. The analysis will be based on the example of a structure known in Runet, the drawings of which are given below; basic materials - laminated and plain polished chipboard 16 mm thick.

On the one hand, this corner requires minimal expenditure of materials, labor and can be made much more convenient, see below. On the other hand, the prototype is focused on industrial technology, its design is rational and well-developed, but we need to get the product no worse by assembling it at home on our knees and by weight. It was this sample that was also chosen because it is able to acquire all the best qualities of a corner with a beveled corner, plus the ability to serve as a sleeping place, but technologically it is not much more complicated than a right corner. In addition, there is a generally correct specification with lists of material and accessories, see fig. on right.

Note: if you check / navigate by other sources with the descriptions of this sample, keep in mind that in part of them, and considerable, in the drawings of the parts, the dimensions are mixed for sofas with a length of 100 and 60 cm.It is, of course, impossible to assemble the blanks cut from them into the product.

For example, in the top row of Fig. with drawings, assembly diagrams are given, as clear as day to the factory technologist. But what about them without production equipment? The sample under consideration is a panel-type box-shaped structure, similar to the load-bearing structure in aircraft construction. Box-panel structures save material and labor as much as possible, resulting in very durable products, but a number of specific requirements are imposed on their manufacturing technology. There are a lot of invisible tricks here, but you can cope with them, and we will do it. First for sofas, in the following sequence:

Selection of fasteners;
Sizing for a specific room;
Cutting chipboard and chipboard into blanks, marking and drilling of holes;
Trimming of beveled parts and edging;
Covering the parts for which it is required with soft sheathing;
Assembly.

Next, let's see how you can simplify the manufacture of the corner section (corner) and make it more convenient. The original design is modular, but in our apartment the corners of the walls do not change places by themselves. Knowing exactly where the corner will stand, whether it will be right or left, the corner can be made hanging (see below), and this will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of work.

Fasteners

The main fasteners of this kitchen corner, taking operational loads - furniture screws and steel corner connectors; dowels play an auxiliary role, keeping parts from shifting. In the specification above, there is a list of fittings for assembly in an industrial environment, but for home execution, something will have to be changed in it.

Note: in products made of chipboard and chipboard, it is possible to replace confirmations with self-tapping screws for wood to connect parts through the layer into the edge occasionally. In this product - in no case is it possible, because the boards are very thin, 16 mm. The connecting corners are attached to the parts with self-tapping screws for wood, see below.

Confirmates

The standard size of the confirmations specified in the specification is 7x50, the maximum permissible for a given thickness of chipboard / chipboard. This makes it possible to transport the modules of the corner in assembled form and somewhat reduce the cost of it, because the need for assembly on site is eliminated, and any of the modules is carried into the apartment by a person with physical development of the office type. But marking and drilling for the thickest fasteners are also needed for production accuracy (see below), which cannot be achieved by working at home with your hands. For example, while working with an electric hand drill, can you feed the drill perpendicularly or parallel to the board face with a deviation to the side of no more than 0.1 mm? The question is rhetorical. Therefore, for manual work, provided that the product will not be transported over long distances with shaking and jolts, the standard size of confirmations must be reduced to 6x50 or even 5x60. Otherwise, i.e. If you take fasteners according to industrial specifications, some parts may delaminate during drilling or assembly. If chipboard / chipboard is taken from eco-friendly brands E0 or E1, then it will delaminate, so chipboard / chipboard should be of household grade E2, and if you want E0 / E1, then the thickness of the boards should be increased to 24/20 mm, correcting accordingly. dimensions, see below.

The screw neck height H is of great importance for the strength of the connection by confirms, see pos. 1 in fig. H should be exactly equal to the thickness of the overhead board, on the right in pos. 1. Sometimes H is indicated by the 3rd digit in the name of the screw standard size, i.e. you will need confirmations 6x50x16 or 5x60x16 for the original design or 6x50x24 / 6x50x20 or 5x60x24 / 5x60x20 in case of using boards of greater thickness.

The drill for confirms must be taken exactly for the given screw size. The height of its skirt should be equal to H (in the center at pos. 1), the diameter should be equal to the diameter of the screw body without a thread, and the length of the spiral part of the drill L (without the cutting tip) should be equal to the full length of the screw thread. If the heel of the screw rests against the residual conical hole in the hole, then hidden delamination in thin boards is guaranteed, and it is only a matter of time before it spreads outward. Small.

Dowels

In all sources on the topic of the kitchen corner in question, with enviable constancy, but without proper understanding, photos of wooden dowels are given as illustrations. This is a gross mistake in this case. Wooden dowels are intended for joining wooden parts: they dry out along with the main materials, and the connection is held firmly for many years. Or centuries, if the furniture was made by an outstanding master.

Chipboard / chipboard does not dry out and therefore are connected with plastic dowels. If we take slightly more expensive propylene ones, then there is no need for a rather laborious and requiring increased accuracy of gluing the joints. For the above reasons, the diameter of dowels for manual production must be reduced to 6 mm, leaving their length the same. In the edges of the boards, holes for dowels are drilled only along the conductor (pos. 4 in the figure); diameter - 5.3 mm, drilling depth 22 mm in edges and 12 mm in faces.

The seats (see below) can be made not folding, but removable by placing them on dowels with rounded heads for detachable connections (at the top at pos. 2). This will eliminate the rather complicated installation of piano hinges, the costs of them and the fasteners for them. And if they decide to rearrange the corner in a hurry, then the likelihood of its damage decreases: they grabbed the seat, without thinking, it remained in our hands, and the sofa did not jump and did not hit anything. Getting something out of the chest under the seat on the piano hinges is not at all more convenient, because seat cover folds back less than 90 degrees. It is easier to remove it and lean it against the back than to rummage through the chest, holding the lid with your hand. But, unfortunately, in the construction under consideration, this is impossible, see below.

It is better to take other dowels for our kitchen corner with faceplates, below in pos. 2. The thickness of the washer is 0.5-0.7 mm; such gaps will not be visible at first. After some time, the washers will be pressed into the chipboard (the parts are tightly pulled together by confirmations), the gaps will converge, and the whole product will acquire additional strength. Another advantage of this type of dowel is the different corrugation on the long and short parts, which provides an even higher strength of the connection without the danger of delamination of the boards. You just need to pick up the dowels of the required standard size: with a 20 mm long part and a 10 mm short one (for 16 mm boards). For boards 20/24 mm, the long part needs 30 mm, and the short part is 12/16 mm.

Corners

For the structure under consideration, you will need steel isosceles corner connectors 30x20x2 (for fasteners obliquely) or 30x15x2 for fasteners in a row. The first number indicates the length of the corner shelves, the second their width, and the third the thickness of the material. During assembly, the corners will have to be partially bent, for the installation of inclined parts, so you need to take them white or gray from viscous "raw" or moderately annealed steel. The presence of punching stiffness at the bend for bendable corners is unacceptable, pos. 4 in Fig. The inner and outer folds of the corners should be smooth, without tears and wrinkles. The corners of burnt steel, yellowish with spots of tarnishing flowers, if bent, then then crack. Black phosphated corners from the so-called. overdried steel is very strong, but when bent, they break immediately.

Note: plastic furniture corners, so that you know, can be folded, thoroughly warming up with a household hairdryer at full power. But plastic corners last no more than 3-5 years, and then dry up and crack.

Dimensions (edit)

Referring again to Fig. with drawings (duplicated on the right). The dimensions are corrected there: in black they are given for the length of the sofa 1 m long; red and blue next to the “black” ones for the 60 cm long small sofa. The green marks will come in handy later when we get to the corner seat.

"Red" sizes are basic: to them you need to add the missing 600 mm for sofas of greater length. For example, for a sofa with a length of 1.3 m, add 700 mm to the "red" dimensions. The largest possible length of a sofa of this design is 1.5 m. The "blue" dimensions are relevant for sofas up to 750 mm long. If the sofa is longer, instead of the "blue" sizes, you need to take the "black" ones.

6th position

The 6th part is missing in the drawings. This is a blank seat, a simple board without any holes there. Its length is equal to the length of the sofa extensions (968/568 mm in the drawings) minus the double thickness of the upholstery fabric, it is kept within 1-3 mm. The thickness of the flock and microfiber optimal in the kitchen is approx. 1.5 mm, taking into account the folds, so in this version the seat length will be 965 mm for the large sofa and 565 mm for the small one. Minimum seat width 297 mm, including fabric upholstery and piano hinges, see below. If the dimensions of the kitchen allow, the width of the seat can be increased, then its overhang forms in front. With the corner seat option discussed below, the maximum seat width of the sofas is 444 mm; then the bevel of the seat of the corner section is reduced. In this case, the width of the berth can be up to 900 mm.

Cutting and sawing

Sawing sheets of chipboard / chipboard into blanks of parts is done with a jigsaw along the contour. The contour is guided along the pattern, so the jigsaw file must be guided along the inner edge of its line. The upper and lower edges of parts 2 (chest facade) and 8 (backrest base) in Fig. with drawings, it is necessary to cut obliquely, for which you need a jigsaw with an inclined shoe or you will need to buy a shoe for the existing one. The angle of inclination of the front of the chest is 10 degrees, and the backrest is 5 degrees. Some shoes are scaled in units of relative slope; for an angle of 5 degrees, this is 0.085, and for 10 degrees, 0.177. Not 0.175, as it might seem, since the relative slope is nothing more than the tangent acc. corner.

A jigsaw saw blade for trimming is beveled inward from the edge to be trimmed. For children. 2 (facade), the upper edge is trimmed from the face so that the upper outer corner remains intact, and the lower one, on the contrary, from the underside (wrong side), so as not to cut off the inner lower corner. Backrest edges, because it is tilted back to the facade, cut in the reverse order: the upper one from the rear, and the lower one from the front.

Edging

The free edges of the parts of the kitchen corner must be covered with something in the general tone. Edging of PVC kitchen furniture with a T-profile edge is undesirable not because the groove for the edge needs to be selected with a milling machine, but because dirt will accumulate in the edge gaps. By the way, for the same reason, it is advisable to make a table in the kitchen for a ready-made postforming worktop: it does not require edging at all and is equipped with a drip tray.

Visible and touch-able edges of kitchen furniture are covered with a plastic tape of a complex composition ABS (ABS, acrylonitrite butadiene styrene) up to 2 mm thick, and the back and above the floor - with creped paper tape. ABS is absolutely safe, hygienic and environmentally friendly; medical equipment is also made of it. ABS and paper edging are available dry and self-adhesive. The first ones are intended for industrial use with a separate glue supply, so you need to take self-adhesive ones yourself. The lining of the kitchen corner with self-adhesive edges is done as follows:

The edge tape is cut from the roll to the required length plus 2-3 cm. The lengths of the curved edges are conveniently measured with a tailor's meter.
Peel off 2-4 cm of the protective film from the end of the segment, without touching the adhesive layer with your fingers.
Place the end of the tape on the edge straight along and press.
Holding the tape with your hand, with the other hand pull the protective film out from under it by the original "tail". The tape should be on the edge by itself.
When the tape is all at the edge, it is rolled with a rubber roller.

In general, the procedure is the same as for high-quality self-adhesive gluing. By the way, this is a good finishing option if you decide to make the entire kitchen corner of inexpensive sanded chipboard: there are few visible parts in it, and an experienced carpenter will not immediately distinguish textured self-adhesive under acrylic varnish from natural wood. Self-adhesive gluing is done after sawing and trimming the edges before edging. In this case, the inside of the chest can be simply lacquered.

Marking and drilling

The accuracy of marking the details of box-panel structures made of chipboard / chipboard is required no worse than +/- 0.5 mm, but how can it be maintained on the edges and polished chipboard if the size of the fibers of the material is of the same order? At the factory, there are no problems with this, there is no markings as such - automatic machines are cut and drilled. In handicraft production, they use templates, but in order to align each one, you have to spoil up to 2-3 blanks. It is so unacceptable for piece production at home, if only because the templates take a lot and it will take so much time to make them that it is easier to buy a ready-made corner. Moreover, the quality of the product from the parts marked according to templates turns out to be 3+ at best.

Firstly, the marking of the holes on the details of the kitchen corner made of chipboard / chipboard must be done with the so-called. a marking caliper with sharp jaws for measuring the outer dimensions and a vernier for accurate installation of the carriage (on the left in the figure) Experienced locksmiths sometimes make a marking bar from an ordinary one, sharply and very carefully sharpening tightly compressed outer jaws on fine emery, but set the tool carriage manually exactly to it is difficult for the vernier.

Note: electronic barbells, incl. marking (on the right in the figure) is actually not so convenient to use, and the marking accuracy is worse. Here the electronics have not yet caught up with the good old mechanics.

Further, the marking of holes on all parts is done from the underside. When marking asymmetrical sidewalls, keep this in mind so that it does not come out in a mirror image. Of course, the right and left sidewalls are mirrored.

Then, between the centers of the extreme holes for fastening the mating part with confirmations, axial lines are drawn into the edge and beat off to the sides along half the width of the board to be connected. Along the axial line, the removal of the attached part is beaten off and also marked so that the contour of its edge is obtained. In this way, on the underside of each board, you need to mark the contours of all the edges to be joined, this is necessary for accurate assembly. The accuracy of the beating of the edges is required +/- 0.5 mm, which in this case is provided by a locksmith's corner with millimeter divisions and a steel locksmith's ruler.

Drilling

Blind holes for dowels are drilled immediately according to the required diameter to the required depth, as described above. But so far we drill holes for confirmations only through the layers of the boards and only with the spiral part of the drill, i.e. not full diameter. We will complete the drill completely later, in the order of assembly, so the entire kitchen corner will turn out without distortions and cracks.

Upholstery and cover

Before assembling, the backrests with seats need to be fully fitted for sofas, and from the parts of the corner seat, also the backrest segments separately. We will talk further about the fitting and assembly of the corner of the kitchen corner, but for now we will restrict ourselves to sofas.

Holofiber, which is excellent for interior furniture, does not fit well in the kitchen; it is not particularly hygienic in the local microclimate. Upholstery for kitchen furniture is made of low-permeability foam rubber brands EL2240, EL2540, EL2842, EL3050, EL3245, EL3550 and EL4050. The first 2 digits indicate the hardness, and the last 2 indicate the density in kg / cu. m. The bearing capacity within this range grows from 60 to 120 kg per sq. m. m, this means that this material is able to withstand such a weight indefinitely for a long time, fully straightening after removing the load. Foam rubber EL2842 is universal; the lower brands go for the backrest, EL3050 and EL3245 for the seat, and the EL3550 and EL4050 are intended for furniture in public buildings or for overweight riders.

The thickness of the foam rubber layer is needed 20-40 mm. Cutting this is exactly recommended with a heated nichrome thread. It is not difficult to make a machine for cutting polystyrene and foam rubber with your own hands, but it is still extra work. In addition, for the machine to be safe, the thread must be powered from a 12V 5A power source, and this is a more serious work or a solid waste of money. However, it is easier to cut pieces of foam rubber with fairly even edges:

A steel metal ruler is glued with tape along the cut line;
The cut is carried out with a new, absolutely sharp cutting knife in several steps along the ruler;
For the first cut, the blade is extended by 5-7 mm, and the knife holder rests on a ruler. Take a closer look at your knife - the end of its holder is brought together by an angle, this is just for such cases;
For subsequent cuts, the blade is extended by the same amount until the entire layer is cut.

The kitchen corner seats are upholstered with foam rubber with a fold-over along the front edge. For the fold, you need to give an allowance of 2-3 board thicknesses. The foam sheets for the backs are cut exactly to the dimensions of the base. Foam rubber is glued with 88 glue, the gates are glued last. If the seat is with an extension, then its front edge should be rounded off before gluing, and the foam allowance should be given in 4-5 board thicknesses, see fig. on right. Sitting on such a seat will be much more comfortable.

Close-fitting

Conventional upholstery fabrics are rarely used in high-quality kitchen furniture. quickly become saturated with fumes and get dirty. Leatherette is more hygienic, but sitting on it in the heat is unpleasant, and it is in no way desirable to put an air conditioner in the kitchen for many reasons. It is best to sheathe the kitchenette with flock or microfiber.

Flock is available in plain and colored, smooth and embossed, left and center in fig. The dirt gets entangled in its fibers, without migrating back, and is removed during the obligatory regular cleaning at least once every 2-3 months. The flock upholstery of kitchen furniture is used for up to 10 years and more.

Microfiber works on the same principle, but its fibers are regular plexuses of the finest filaments. Microfiber, as it were, draws in dirt and holds it firmly; this material was originally developed for cleaning optical glasses. Microfiber is produced only in monochromatic modest colors (on the right in the figure); does not need maintenance during the entire operation period. Unfortunately, this material is expensive and lasts no more than 3-5 years, and then you need to completely change the upholstery: microfiber cannot be cleaned, because in this case, its structure is violated.

Fix the flock and microfiber upholstery as usual with a furniture stapler to the underside of the base. The folds at the corners are glued with 88 glue: the fold is unscrewed, the glue is dripped onto the fabric adjacent to the base, it is held until it is tack-free and the folded fold is pressed. It is not necessary to glue PVA, it can give visible spots on the outside.

Assembly

Before final assembly, thrust bearings are placed on the legs of the sidewalls. Any width in the thickness of the board will do, but it is still better to put round ones with threaded or dowel heads instead of the ones recommended by the authors of the original design: there will be fewer nooks for the accumulation of dirt. Dowel thrust bearings are cheaper than threaded ones, and it is easier to install them: holes are drilled in the edge of the leg for the dowels (6 mm in this case), and the thrust bearings are simply pushed into place.

How to assemble home-made box-panel furniture without distortions, cracks and without using complex production equipment, this question, as they say, is still the same. In this case, you cannot do without a pair of corner furniture clamps, see fig. on right. Welding angle clamps with a common clamp are not suitable, they cannot accurately bring together the parts to be joined, and with the help of furniture clamps it is not so difficult:

They put dowels in children. 4 in the drawing, lightly tapping with a rubber mallet or mallet;
One of the sidewalls (detail 1 in the drawing) and the back wall of the chest (det. 4) are tightened with clamps so that the edge det. 4 entered the contour marked for it on the underside. 1;
Drill holes for confirms and screw them;
Without removing the clamps, put children on the dowels. 3 - the bottom of the chest;
The upper clamp is removed and rearranged to the far corner of parts 3 and 4;
Parts 3 and 4 are connected (with drilling of holes for confirmation). The clamp from their corner is immediately removed, otherwise it will remain in the sofa;
Remove the remaining clamp (do not forget!), Put children. 5 (lower back brace) and attach to det. 4;
They put children. 2 - chest facade;
Attach the second sidewall without screwing the confirmates to the end. You just need to bait so that the dowel heads enter the holes a little;
Collect the back (inset at the bottom right in the figure with drawings) and put it in place, pushing the sides of the back. The confirmations on the 2nd sidewall hold out;
Hang the seat on the piano hinges, see below.

Here a question is possible: why are clamps, if there are already dowels? The dowels are not guides, they do not hold the corner, and during assembly they can break off by weight. Taking into account the fact that the marking and sawing were done manually, you cannot do without clamps. Conscientious professional furniture assemblers use clamps with might and main, but why should we bother with ourselves?

Seats

Putting the seats on dowels with rounded heads in our case will not work, because the front of the chest is beveled. If we restrict ourselves to dowels on the edge of its rear wall, then they will be quickly broken off even when removing the seat cover carefully. The seats of the kitchen corner sofas are hung on piano hinges, but you should not take 1-2 long ones (item 1 in the figure): hang the chest lid on such so that it fits straight into place and does not twist when folded back, it is difficult without special equipment. You need to take 3-4 short loops for fastening in a row, pos. 2. Zigzag hinges (item 3) are not suitable - how do you attach them to a 16mm board? The same applies to card loops, pos. 4, strongly recommended by a number of authors.

The seat hinge fenders should be as wide as the board's thickness. First, the hinges are placed on the seat, aligning the edges of the wings along the lower edge of the board along with the upholstery. Then you need an assistant: he will hold the seat, and the master will align the edge of the wing of one of the extreme loops along the lower edge of the lower back tie board (det. 5 in the drawings) and make money with a pair of self-tapping screws, not reaching the end. Then the other extreme loop is also profitable, and after that the rest are attached to a full interference and the extreme ones are reached. The assistant keeps the seat tilted all the time.

Injection

The corner module of the original design is rather complicated (item 1 in the figure), not quite convenient and not very hygienic: dust and crumbs will fall along the gap between the back and the seat just where it is difficult to remove them. Since, in our case, the entire corner is made at the place of permanent operation, it would be more expedient to build a hanging corner to it, tightly fastened to the sofas. Drawings of its 5 parts - seat, support bar and 3 backrest segments - are given in Fig. The bevel of the corner seat with the sofa seats 400 mm wide comes out 210 mm, and this is considered a half-window that fits in a small-sized kitchen. The bevel can be straight, convex and concave. A slightly convex bevel is most convenient, but then it will not be possible to attach a bench to arrange a sleeping place. The backrest has a camber upward, which further improves ergonomics.

The dimensions of the backrest segments must be verified in place on the trail. reasons. First, the thickness of the cladding strongly affects small parts. Since the sofas were covered earlier, this value will be known by the beginning of the production of the corner section. Second, all the size errors that have accumulated in the sofas will converge into one in the corner.

And yet, it is necessary to sheathe the seat and backrest segments along the surface freely, without tension, so that the back does not overtighten the fabric during assembly. The lower edges of the segments must be beveled inward by 2 mm (at an angle of 10 degrees, this is with a margin). The tops of the segments can be curly (options at pos. 4 and 5 of the figure), if only the contours at the points of conjugation converge.

Note: the rear support legs can be omitted if there are no suitable trimmings and riders weighing less than 100 kg. If set, then they are attached in pairs of confirmations through the face to the edge. The heel of the lower support is sealed with a piece of ABS and just stands on the floor.

Corners in the corner

This corner also has 2 secrets. The first is a nook under the seat. From the point of view of a pet, this is a safe and secure backup den at a safe distance from the main house. And from the point of view of the owners - not giving them unnecessary trouble.

Second. The middle segment of the backrest does not bear operational loads. If you put it on friction pins instead of self-tapping screws, a cache will form in the cavity behind it. It will only be necessary to sew an outward-facing tongue-strap made of durable fabric to the upholstery of the lower edge, and sew the fiberboard on the corner section from the rear. When closing the cache, the tongue is tucked inward so that it is not visible. To open the cache, you need to pry your tongue and pull it out with a fork or something like that. The segment is removed by pulling on the tongue and the top of the back. This cache is unlikely to hide anything from an experienced burglar or a professional search, but from an amateur thief or excessively curious household members it is quite reliable.

The old fashioned way

A wooden kitchen corner looks gorgeous in any setting, whether it is made of an array of valuable species or boards from unusable building pallets - pallets, see fig. And making a wooden kitchen corner with your own hands may not be more difficult and no more expensive than the one described above.

To start carpentry on wood, and not on a viscous and fragile chipboard, it is not necessary to immediately buy an expensive triad planer - manual milling machine - grinder. You can get by with traditional hand-held (and non-volatile!) Hand tools. The processing of small parts by him in piece production is often easier and faster than changing the machine for the next operation.

To begin with, in addition to a jigsaw (we are not pedants, this tool is not very expensive, it is often needed and better than a bow saw in all respects), you will need an ordinary joiner's plane, a hand jointer and a set of wood rasps. At first, one so-called is enough. cabinet rasp, plano-convex with a tapered end, on the right in Fig.:

You will also need selective (emphasis on "s") straight and beveled zenzubels (on the left in the figure) With a straight zenzub, the folds are removed and the grooves are selected along the fibers, and the ends are slanted across and rounded.

For the primary processing of knotty wood, a sherhebel plane is needed in the center. Scherhebel work with a slight sideways slip, as if cutting and undercutting knots. An ordinary plane can be turned into a scherhebel by placing a "piece of iron" knife with a rounded blade in it.

With a little skill, it will be possible to replenish the tool park with 3-4 more types of selected planers with replaceable pieces of iron for them, see next. rice. Take a closer look at antique furniture: it is made with just such a tool, and not by modern machines with shaped cutters.

The last moment is the assembly (rallying) of furniture boards from the boards, they are also furniture array. In theory, this requires special devices - clamps - 3 for the countertop, 4 for the sides of the cabinet and 2 for the smaller panels. Here, firstly, one clamp can be replaced with a pair of sponges with clips for fastening to the bar, and a piece of timber with a thickness suitable for the clips will go to the bar, see fig; usually 60 mm. Clamp Jaw and Long Tie Clamp sets are sold separately.

Finally, no wide boards are needed for the kitchenette; most often a shield for 3-4 boards is required. In this case, a board made of boards can be assembled without any special equipment at all, see the video:

(1 estimates, average: 5,00 out of 5)

Instead of struggling with the selection of furniture for a small apartment, it is better to study how to make a corner wardrobe with your own hands. After all, no matter how little space is, the corners in the hallway, in the kitchen, in the rooms, remain empty. A hand-made wardrobe will not only solve the problem of placing things, it will elegantly decorate the interior.

Design

There is no exemplary standard design that a corner wardrobe should correspond to. It can be built-in (when only doors need to be supplied) or cabinet, have different sizes, different number of sides (triangular, trapezoidal, L- or U-shaped).

In recent years, a radius sliding wardrobe has become popular, which is a furniture structure devoid of sharp corners. Connoisseurs of beauty will surely appreciate the curved doors that slide along the corresponding profiles. Such a layout allows, saving space, to gracefully solve the problem of storing a large number of things.

Figure 2. angular are scheme No. 1 (concave), No. 2 (convex), No. 5 (convex column of a massive furniture structure or a free-standing small wardrobe). All other options for radius wardrobes can be obtained by combining the above 6 initial types.

Radius is beautiful and functional

The movement of the doors of the radius cabinet is carried out smoothly, almost silently. Similar characteristics are provided by the profile included in the sliding mechanism. Manufacturers offer it in steel or aluminum. We recommend staying on the second option for the following reasons:

increased resistance to damage;
minimization of noise when sliding doors.

The cost of an aluminum profile is higher than a steel one. However, during long-term operation, you will appreciate your choice.

The thickness of the walls should be at least 0.12 cm. The thicker profile increases the reliability of the fastening. High-quality components are produced by Komandor, Absolut, Raumplus, Aristo, and others. If the height of the radius enclosure is higher than 3 m, we recommend using the Raumplus profile.

The doors of the radius wardrobe can be with an upper sliding system or with a lower one. In the first case, the sash hangs on rollers. The movement is carried out along the upper guide. The initial impression of the harness is excellent. However, a large load on the upper horizon causes its gradual sagging. The suspension system wears out quickly, without regular maintenance it can unexpectedly lock the door at the most inopportune moment.

The second sliding system seems to be preferable for everyday household use. The sash slides along the lower guide, the door is fastened and fixed along the upper one. Load distribution evenly, the assembled structure will last longer.

Door elements

Do-it-yourself assembly of corner wardrobes without a diagram that reflects the exact dimensions is impossible. Particular attention must be paid to the moving part of the structure - the doors. You can not miss anything or take the wrong size, in such a case, the sash will not be able to operate normally.

Before assembling your wardrobe, let's take a closer look at the elements of doors with a lower sliding system:

Vertical side profiles can be symmetrical or asymmetrical. During operation, they are used as handles. Symmetrical profiles look the same on both sides, asymmetrical ones create a difference between the outer and outer sides.
The asymmetrical rollers located at the top are intended for fixing the sash in the opening.
The upper door frame is necessary for attaching the wheels to it, as well as the subsequent fixation of the structure.
The lower door frame is used to install the lower wheels, to ensure correct sliding of the leaves.
Internal door filler (wood, glass, mirror) performs a decorative function, gives the entire interior a personality trait.
A seal attached to the vertical side profiles, in addition to softening the impact of the door against the cabinet wall, protects the moving structure from dust.
The door cover is used to secure the side vertical profiles.
Assembly and adjusting screws allow you to change the sliding speed of the sashes.
The stopper makes it possible to fix the door, to avoid unintended opening of the leaves.

Calculation of cabinet capacity

Any step-by-step instruction gives confidence in the business started, however, without a preliminary assessment of the spaciousness, the result will be disappointing. Before drawing drawings and studying the assembly manual, decide what you will put on the shelves or hang. Then it will be difficult to move the functional sections, a beautiful-looking cabinet can become a source of bad mood.

to arrange things according to the season, provide at least 2 sections for outerwear;
when installing recessed luminaires, the upper horizon of the cabinet is brought forward by 12-17 cm;
not only convenient, but also functional, when the depth of the shelves is not less than 60 cm;
the width of the shelves over 65 cm increases the risk of their sagging;
the inter-shelf distance should be no more than 35 cm;
accept the width of the doors from 50 cm, with smaller sizes, the guides fall out;
the number of functional compartments should be commensurate with the number of doors;
when designing the dimensions of the drawers, pay special attention to the location of the door frames, too wide it will be impossible to get it;
doors must be the same width;
the appearance and strength of the cabinet depends on the thickness of the chipboard;
The material for the roof, side walls, doors will be chipboard, the back wall can be made of fiberboard 3 mm thick.

The most practical option is to manufacture a built-in radius wardrobe. Such a structure will easily merge with the walls, hide possible defects, and will require less material and time consumption. Housewives will appreciate the absence of gaps between the wall and the cabinet, in which dust constantly accumulates

Putting the wardrobe

To install the designed cabinet, you will definitely need:

screwdriver;
hammer;
square;
drill;
pencil.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the structure, also make sure that:

drawings;
furniture board 18 mm;
doors and guides;
Cabinet "insides" (drawers, hangers, handles);
door hardware, screws, dowels;
side, bottom and top bezels.

Phased build order:

Measurements and tracing "on the ground" of the installation site of the cabinet (you need a pencil and a level). Vertical posts are marked on the wall, profiles on the floor and ceiling.
Determining the place for the shelves, drilling holes for the dowels, hammering them in.
Fastening of profiles for shelves to the wall, installation of their lower holders.
Applying the marking of the mezzanine shelf, its fastening with self-tapping screws.
Fitting the side wall to the dimensions, installing it.
Installation of internal "filling" (shelves, boxes, etc.).
Installation of pre-prepared false panels, attaching them with a screwdriver to the floor, ceiling, side wall.
Cutting and bending the upper and lower profiles (do not forget to insert the stopper 1 piece per door), attach them to the screws to the bezel.
Assembling the assembled door. The description of the actions is as follows:

decoration with self-adhesive film (if necessary),
installation of vertical profiles on screws,
installation of a door seal,
fixing the upper and lower door frames,
attachment from below and from above rollers,
inserting the top guide then the bottom,
checking the correctness of sliding, adjusting it (if required) with a hexagon.

Corner is a structure that is installed between two walls.

With its help, you can profitably beat the free space, and fill in the empty corners.

A distinctive feature of such furniture is sliding doors, which save space and add charm to the room.

Preparation

Shape and size

The shape of the corner wardrobe is:

There are standard schemes and sizes for the manufacture of corner cabinets and non-standard ones. Standard schemes and sizes are:

As for non-standard products, it is advisable to install them in small, narrow and confined spaces. When designing a drawing of a non-standard size for a corner wardrobe with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that:

minimum depth the cabinet should be at least 35 cm. But the maximum permissible depth should not be more than 0.9 m;
minimum width a non-standard piece of furniture must be at least 0.1 m. Then the doors will have a width of 45 cm. Narrower doors will be inconvenient and unstable to use;
height non-standard products does not have any restrictions. Depending on the wishes and requirements of people, cabinets can be made with a height to the ceiling. But the optimum comfortable height is 2.1 - 2.4 m.

Internal arrangement

When designing furniture, it is worth considering the competent zoning of the space. Namely, you will need:

shelves for things... They are the main element of content. They can be made stationary or retractable, solid, ventilated, half or full depth;
bars for shirts and other short items... Most often they are made of metal;
hooks for bags and bathrobes;
shelves for shoes... It is convenient to store shoes in boxes in the upper part on the mezzanine;
drawers for underwear and socks;
trousers... On them, the trousers will always be ironed and ready to dress;
tie bar... It will be convenient to choose products with her. They will not wrinkle and lose their shape;
belt hooks;
pull-out baskets for small things. All things will be visible in them. It will be convenient to store bracelets, glasses, watches in them. The inside of the basket can be divided into individual cells.

Scheme and drawing

After deciding on the size, shape, materials of manufacture and design of the cabinet, you should draw a diagram with the designation of all internal compartments, drawers, shelves.

Advice. If you own a PC, you can sketch using a special program. With its help, both simple furniture elements and rather complex ones are created.

When creating a project for future furniture, it is important to consider:

product dimensions;
dimensions of the door, base and cover of the cabinet;
rear materials and dimensions;
internal space - vertical and horizontal sections, boxes, shelves;
the presence of mezzanines;
arrangement of accessories.

Materials and tools

An important criterion in the manufacture of furniture is the choice of consumables. For the manufacture of the frame is used:

natural wood... Wooden products are the most durable and environmentally friendly. Such furniture will delight owners with natural beauty, interesting texture and texture. But its cost will be quite high;
MDF... This material has good performance characteristics, durability and affordable cost. Distinctive features of MDF are considered to be its ease of use, environmental friendliness and safety, excellent decorative qualities;
Chipboard... Differs in practicality, durability, reasonable cost, moisture resistance and aesthetics. Modern manufacturers provide a wide color palette of laminated chipboard. This creates stylish and original furniture items.

Doors can be made from:

wood;
plastic;
MDF or chipboard;
tempered glass.

Important... The durability of structures directly depends on the driving mechanisms. Therefore, special attention should be paid to the choice of fittings and guides. It is not worth saving on these materials. It is recommended to purchase products only from reputable manufacturers.

To assemble the cabinet according to the finished project, you will need the following tools:

hammer;
screwdriver;
drill;
square;
pencil.

Also, before installing, check for:

finished drawing;
furniture board;
guides and fittings;
boxes, shelves, hangers, handles;
dowels and screws;
upper and lower bezels.

Manufacturing

How to make elements?

Having in hand the project of the corner cabinet with all the calculations, you can go to the company where the materials will be cut to you.

If you decide to make all the details yourself, you must:

Cut out all the elements of the product from sheet material: walls, doors, shelves, drawer elements. You can make parts with a circular saw. It is also possible to cut with a hacksaw, but in this case, chips may appear on the parts.
After that, we process the edges using a matching PVC edge band. Facing cabinet elements can be done with an iron or a hair dryer.
We apply the trimming with an adhesive surface to the part and iron it with an iron or heat it with a hairdryer.
We draw along the edge with a soft cloth, pressing it tightly to the product.
Cut off the remnants of the tape with a knife.

Assembling the structure

Corner cabinet can be built-in or cabinet. The assembly process for different structures is somewhat different from each other.

To assemble the built-in product, there is no need to install the back wall and corner ends... The product assembly process will consist of the following steps:

If necessary, we process and level the walls in the room. We paint them or paste over with wallpaper.
We drill holes in the places of future fastenings.
We connect all the body parts.
We check the work done using the level.
Next, we move on to the internal arrangement. We mark the location of the inner shelves of the boxes, sectional partitions.
We install doors.

Body frame is assembled according to the following principle:

We make markings at the place of installation of the furniture item.
We assemble a special device from a metal strip and two pieces of board, connected by an angle. You will also need 2 quick-clamping clamps. With these tools, it is convenient to connect workpieces at right angles.
We check the details with a square and measure 7 cm from the top edge.
On the upper and lower parts, we make marks for drilling and drill the parts.
Using a screwdriver, we tighten the confirmation.
After fixing the sidewalls, place the location of the shelves and make holes for them. We install the cross member and fasten all the shelves.
Next, we collect the lower part of the furniture item.
After assembling the case, a fiberboard sheet is attached to the back of the cabinet with furniture studs.
We install the door.

Door installation

The last step in assembling a corner cabinet with your own hands is the installation of doors. They should be ordered separately from a company that deals with such systems.

Sliding systems consist of the following elements:

top guides;
lower guides;
top of the door;
the bottom of the door;
vertical rack for side parts;
sealing gum. It not only softens the opening and closing of the structure, but also prevents dust from entering;
sets of upper and lower rollers;
brackets for securing doors.
vertical side profiles. They can be symmetrical or asymmetrical.
door filler (mirror, wood, glass). It performs a purely decorative function, giving originality to the overall interior of the room.

Important... All door accessories must be covered with a protective film to prevent damage and scratches during delivery.

Door assembly instructions as follows:

We place the door in a horizontal position so that it can be accessed from all sides.
In the upper part of the vertical post we make two holes for fasteners - at the bottom hole the diameter will be 6.5 mm, at the top - 10 mm.
We attach a roller at the bottom.
In the upper part we insert a rubber seal into the mirror and fix it with a profile. We put the seal around the entire perimeter.
Next, we install a vertical profile with a handle.
We join the upper profile with the cross member and tighten the screw with a hex wrench. The screw is not completely screwed in, since the upper rollers will be installed further into it. Only after that, the screw is tightened to the stop.
Next, install the lower profile and tighten it with a hex wrench.
We put on the final vertical profile and tighten the screw with the upper roller.
We prepare everything for the installation of the lower roller, tighten the spring and carefully insert the roller into the drilled hole. We fix everything with a screw.
We fix the top guide. We do not fasten the lower guide.
We insert the lock for the door and set everything according to the level. Only after checking that a gap of the same width is formed on the outside with the doors closed, fix the lower guide with screws.

Sliding wardrobes today are one of the most popular elements of a modern interior. And this is not surprising, because with the help of them you can save space as much as possible, decorate the room and organize things. Well, for the owners of small apartments this is just a godsend!

My house is undergoing renovations, and now it's time to pick up a new one. bedroom wardrobe... I always wanted to have a large dressing room that would fit everything an active girl needs. To find dresses, shoes, jackets, bed linen, and if you also find places for a sleeping bag and skis, then this is generally a dream!

However, in modern apartments, living space is not at all designed for such a female expanse. Nevertheless, there is an optimal solution, and this is - corner wardrobe.

Corner wardrobe in the bedroom

Wardrobe in the bedroom. How many piquant stories about would-be boyfriends and short-sighted young housewives are kept in its capacious insides! And if you look at the objects of similar stories from a different angle, then such a wardrobe should really have a fairly spacious size, even if the bedroom does not "shine" in its dimensions.

The bedroom is an area of relaxation, tranquility and bliss, where an excess of things can bring disharmony. Arranging the bedroom with a wardrobe will relieve the space and make it possible to put things in order, contributing to ideal rest.
A corner radius wardrobe is just an amazing solution for a small but very cozy bedroom.
And such a wardrobe will be a good option for both the parents' bedroom and the teenager's room.
This handsome white man took his place of honor in the living room. Nevertheless, by moving it to the bedroom, it can adequately replace all storage space in the bedroom.
Simple and tasteful!
Here it is - almost ideal for me.
The original placement of the backlight plays a role and is considered the main aspect when creating the effect of visual expansion of the space.
And this is almost full dressing room... There is even a chandelier!
In design, the most important role is not played by financial capabilities, but by the correct proportions and accents to obtain a lively and harmonious interior.
Well, this solution is applicable to any of the rooms. Such a cabinet takes up a lot of space, but it looks very impressive!
I suggest you familiarize yourself with the drawing of a small corner cabinet.
And such a wardrobe can decorate the bedroom of a little princess or a young knight.
Just a chic drawing of a radius corner wardrobe.
And this is a drawing of a large and spacious wardrobe corner.
I am thinking to show my husband this scheme. This is exactly what we need for our bedroom!
Another good closet drawing.
Spacious and light!
Not big at all, but roomy enough.
Mirrors installed in the doors of the wardrobe contribute to an increase in space and better illumination, which can be either solid mirror panels or inlaid with sandblast printing with various images.
And such a wardrobe is just heaven for any woman.
An excellent solution for lovers of rounded and wavy shapes.
This option will appeal to everyone in love with oriental culture and their art.
I am absolutely delighted with this solution. Everything will fit to the maximum!
Stylish idea. Perhaps I'll take it on board!
The trapezoidal design of the corner wardrobe has various configurations and the most effective appearance. As a rule, these are installed in large spacious bedrooms.
Very nice, isn't it?
And how do you like this option. Interesting and very functional!

Corner wardrobes are extremely ergonomic: due to the beveled shape, they do not appear bulky and, at the same time, are extremely spacious. Let's look at examples of how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands - what models can be implemented, what typical dimensions, filling can be and how to calculate details using the example of ready-made drawings and diagrams.

Structures, drawings and photos of corner cabinets

Conventionally, corner cabinets can be divided into two categories: beveled trapezoidal and strictly rectangular, with diagonally and perpendicular facades. In both cases, the cabinet can be:

Symmetrical and asymmetrical.
With separate mezzanines and without mezzanines.
Combined filling and dedicated exclusively to shelves or hangers.
With internal or external drawers.
With a different number of facades (one-door, two-door, three-door).
With execution in the form of showcases, open racks and designed for storage of clothes.

We will consider only diagrams of wardrobe (wardrobe) corner cabinets with our own hands.

Corner wardrobes with perpendicular sashes, most often, represent an additional composition of two conventional wardrobes with a slightly modified design. In rare cases, it can be a cast structure, especially if the front part is sliding, "accordion".

The advantage of trapezoidal corner cabinets is their large capacity and functionality. For example, the width of the outer sidewalls can be reduced to a minimum, and this does not interfere with placing hangers with bulky clothes - after all, the inner part expands towards the center.

Do-it-yourself corner cabinet: determine the size

Before wondering how to make a corner cabinet with your own hands, you need to decide on the overall dimensions. Ergonomic shapes attract many, but it is not always possible to achieve the desired, if the allotted space for placement is too small.

The smallest dimensions of a corner cabinet with your own hands can be compared to the typical dimensions of a kitchen hinged module. It takes 600x600mm from the corner. In order for the facade to be of sufficient width (minimum 400 mm), the depth of the uprights (sidewalls) is set to no more than 300 mm. Naturally, with such dimensions, there can be no question of placing the bar under the hanger. Only shelves or hooks for clothes.

For a corner wardrobe with a compartment for hanging clothes, the distance from the corner, at least on one side, must be at least 800mm. Then the depth of the rack can be set as 450mm, which is quite enough for hangers with light clothes (for "men's" and outerwear it is required from 500mm). Diy diagrams of corner cabinets with their own hands are approximately the same, in the ratio of the depth of the rack and the remaining space for the facade.

With asymmetric options, it is quite possible to realize what was conceived with dimensions from an angle of 850x650mm, 800x700mm, etc.

How to make a corner cabinet with your own hands using the example of a drawing

Consider a typical symmetrical model with dimensions of 2100x900x900mm. A do-it-yourself corner cabinet drawing will look like this.

Along one of the sides, the width of the body allows the placement of shelves, they must be made taking into account the required space for the rod hinge - from 500 mm minimum. Drawers can be built into the section with shelves. The only nuance that should be taken into account in the future is the placement of loops on the facade. The hinge must not “hit” either the drawer or the shelf!

The height of the cabinet allows two rods to be placed under clothes. Distances of 900-1100 mm are sufficient for short jackets, shirts, and the hem of long dresses can be simply “thrown” over the lower bar. Or you can make a shelf above or below, for hats or shoes.

How to calculate the details of a corner cabinet with your own hands

After you have decided on the dimensions of the corner cabinet with your own hands, the internal filling, you can begin to calculate the details. The easiest option is in the form of a table in the Excel office program.

We write down all the details in strict accordance with the texture of the drawing, first the length, then the width. If you drive the formula into a tabular form for calculating the quadrature of each part, then you can sum up and roughly estimate how much the cabinet will "pour out" into.
At the same time, we mark the visible sides that will need to be rolled up with the edge in units. Also, the formulas will help to pre-calculate the footage of the end tape.
I recommend highlighting irregularly shaped parts so as not to lose sight of them (for example, as in the table below - in yellow). And also clearly show along which side they will roll up the edge.
You can see how to calculate the size of the facades for a corner cabinet. Strictly speaking, the front part can be made of another material - for example, MDF or solid wood.
Fiberboard detailing is considered a similar method.

DIY corner cabinet cut cards

The calculated dimensions of the parts from Excel are transferred to a special nesting program. Parts for which the direction of the pattern is not critical (eg stiffeners, plinth, internal shelves) can be rotated to minimize waste. In our case, there is a reason to make the front part of a different material - the body of the corner cabinet with our own hands economically "lays down" on two sheets.

Sawing can be ordered from a third party along with PVC seaming. Typically, such services are provided by all firms selling laminated chipboard. At home, it is rather laborious and accurate to roll up PVC. We'll have to be content with melamine tape, the only plus of which is its low cost. The table shows that 28.83 running meters will be needed. But it is better to take with a margin, + 10-15%.

How to mark the details of the cabinet for drilling

If you correctly mark and drill all the details onto the corner cabinet with your own hands, then in the end it will be assembled very simply, like a designer. The most convenient way to do this is in special furniture programs, for example, Basis Mebel.

The principles are simple:

Furniture is assembled on euro screws (confirmations).
Details are drilled into the end and from the front side.
The distance from the edge of the front side part must be the same. For example, 50 mm. Or in the center.

After the fasteners are placed, we number the parts. If there are parts of the same size, but with a different fastening principle, we use additional markings (a, b, etc.).

In Basis Mebel, you can get the specifications for drilling in this form.

But here you need to be careful, clearly imagine where the corner cabinet part has a "face" with your own hands, and where is the "wrong side", along the sides rolled up with the edge. The program does not see this nuance, it arranges the fasteners from left to right. And during the drilling process, you may come across details that need to be mirrored. Basically, it's not difficult. Anyway, with the pre-drilling specifications, the whole process will go much faster.

How much will it cost to make a corner cabinet with your own hands?

With the correct drawing up of do-it-yourself corner cabinet drawings, all calculation stages, the risks of errors that lead to inevitable additional expenses are reduced to zero. If you make any furniture with your own hands, then it is always cheaper. Actually, nothing prevents from predicting costs before the start of all work. Find out all the prices for materials, accessories and hardware in your city that will be required when making a cabinet with your own hands, and drive into a simple Excel plate.

The most significant costs will be for the purchase of laminated chipboard and cut. We took a standard model - from changes up or down by 100-200 mm, the material consumption will not change significantly. It will also take about 2-3 sheets, depending on the number of shelves and facades (they will be ordered separately or not).