How to make a compost pit correctly - sooner or later every owner of a suburban area faces this question. In this article, you will learn how to properly equip a place for obtaining natural fertilizers.
Compost is an effective tool for increasing soil fertility. Even novice gardeners know this. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows how to equip a compost pit. There are many nuances in this matter. And only a competent approach will make it possible to "kill two birds with one stone" - to dispose of household waste and lay the foundations for a rich harvest.
Choosing a suitable place
If you are puzzling over the question of how to properly make a compost pit, then the first thing you should take care of is choosing the right place.
As a rule, the compost heap is settled behind outbuildings, in the backyard of the site. Do not stir the pit too close to a drinking water source. The optimal distance to it is 25 meters. The place should be shaded as direct sunlight inhibits processing. It is important to take into account the direction of the wind, the neighbors are unlikely to be delighted with the smell exuded by future fertilizer.
Consider ease of access as well. Many people forget about it, and then they suffer with the laying of garbage and sampling of humus. It is good if the surface of the earth is flat - stagnant water reduces the flow of oxygen, which will significantly extend the time of "preparation" of the most valuable additive.
Have you chosen a place for your composter? Fine! Clear the soil from the turf and loosen it to a depth of 30 cm. This will create favorable conditions for the life of worms and other beneficial microorganisms that take an active part in processing.
About dimensions and design features
So, we figured out the place for the composter. And then a new question is brewing, what size should the compost pit be? The size is determined on a two-cycle basis. That is, the first half of the pit should be occupied by waste that has accumulated over 2 years, the second half - "young" compost (not older than 2 years).
It is important to understand that the larger the compost pit, the faster it heats up to the desired temperature (up to 60 degrees). If the pit is small, then, of course, it will also heat up, but it is unlikely to reach the temperature indicators at which all pathogenic flora and weeds die. Experts recommend laying a compost heap with the following dimensions: height - at least 1.2 m, width - 1.5 m, length - 2 m.
Be sure to provide a removable cover for the composter. Do not cover the bottom with plastic, rubber, metal sheets or slate. They will prevent moisture from passing upwards, which means that the compost will be dry. The best floor for a compost pit is an earthen one.
Manufacturing options
Compost heaps can be of several types. Consider the options for arrangement, and you will choose the most convenient for you.
Ordinary pit
The "composter for the lazy" is an ordinary shallow pit. First, place tree bark, hay, or twigs on the bottom. Further - plant and food residues. Cover with black plastic wrap. Cover with grass after each discharge of new waste. To be honest, this option cannot be called successful - the contents of the pit will not warm up enough, and you will have to spend a lot of energy on mixing. Better to try and build something more efficient.
Wooden two-section composter
A wooden box submerged in the ground is the most common option. Dig a hole about 50-80 cm deep, 1.5-2 meters wide and 2-3 meters long. Dig in the support beams in the corners, stepping back 20 cm from the edges of the hole.Pipe sections will do a good job with this task. Pre-treat them with a bio-protective compound.
Assemble the three sides of the box from the boards, providing ventilation holes. Install and align if necessary. Divide the composter in two with a wooden board. The first compartment is for the "old" compost, the second is for the "young". Screw on the front panel.
Line the bottom with straw or bark. This will protect against the accumulation of excess fluid and ensure normal air exchange. The lid can be made from a sheet of plywood fixed to the back wall with hinges. First treat the wooden parts with moisture and insect repellent impregnation, and then coat with acrylic paint in two layers.
It is possible to divide the compost pit into not two, but three sections. The first compartment is for ready-made compost, the second is for maturing, the third is for laying new waste.
Most often the composter is made of wood, but if desired, you can use slate, metal sheets or bricks.
Composter with one section
If you find a two- or three-section composter uncomfortable, you can make a pit with one section. Install the wooden box so that there is 30 cm between the ground and the edges. The ripe compost will be removed from this hole. New raw materials are laid from above, that is, there is no need to loosen the fertilizer. In principle, it is very convenient.
Concrete pit
Those who want to make a compost pit once and no longer worry about it should be advised a concrete "reservoir". Mark the area (approximately 2x3 meters) and dig a shallow trench (70-80 cm). Build a formwork 10-12 cm thick around the perimeter of the future composter. Prepare concrete and pour it into the formwork. After the final solidification, the formwork is disassembled. Place waste in the pit and cover with plastic sheeting, metal mesh, or wooden shields. That's all.
Plastic containers
A modern interpretation of a traditional pit that needs some work. The plastic is air-tight, so you'll have to do the ventilation holes yourself. This can be problematic to do. It is better to buy a ready-made plastic composter equipped with a lid, ventilation ducts and lower doors for displaying fertilizers. The volume may vary. On average - from 400 to 1000 liters. The cost varies from 2 to 10 thousand rubles.
When the work on arranging the compost pit is finished, you should think about how to use it correctly. After all, it directly depends on how quickly you get humus and how nutritious it will be.
- from time to time "comb" the contents of the pit with a pitchfork. This will provide oxygen access and accelerate the decay process;
- do not forget to water the compost heap - dry waste does not decompose;
- to speed up the process of "cooking" will help the film that covers the pit;
- sometimes put worms in the box and add drugs that activate decomposition (Compostin, Kompostar, Baikal EM-1, etc.);
- lay raw materials in layers. Alternate plant residues with food waste, wet - with dry;
- will accelerate the decomposition of cow dung, as well as some plants (dandelion, chamomile, valerian, yarrow);
- do not tamp the layers tightly, make sure that the contents are not too wet, too loose or, conversely, dry;
- there should be 5 times more dry material in the compost heap than wet material.
And finally, about what you can put in the composter and what you can't. This, by the way, is the defining moment for obtaining a good fertilizer. Plant residues are thrown into the compost pit - cut grass, straw, tree bark, leaves, branches, wood ash. Food waste is also useful - tea leaves, peels of fruits and vegetables, eggshells, leftovers from cereals and soups. Black and white newspapers, napkins, cardboard, old wool or cotton will do.
To enrich the contents of the pit with nitrogen from time to time, you need to add manure, bird droppings, bone meal, legumes and pea stalks to it. Don't forget about superphosphates, dolomite flour and complex mineral fertilizers.
Do not bring animal excrement, fats, bones, spoiled food, tomato and potato tops, weed seeds, plants treated with herbicides, inorganic waste (rubber, plastic, glass, synthetics).
Video: Arrangement of a modern compost pit on a personal plot
The purpose of the compost pit is to turn household waste into an excellent soil fertilizer. That is why compost pits are widely used by summer residents and gardeners: a compost pit solves the problem of utilizing organic waste and at the same time improves crop yields.
In order to make a compost pit in the country, you first need to choose the right location:
Do not place the hole in a sunny place, avoid direct sunlight and overdrying;
It is better to equip the pit on a flat surface or a hill so that water does not linger in it in rainy weather.
How to make a compost pit correctly is difficult to say, because there are many different device options and each of them has certain advantages.
The simplest compost pit in the country is not even a pit, but a heap. Many summer residents do not bother with the construction of any structures, but simply dump the source material into a heap, where the process of compost maturation takes place. Often such a heap is covered with a film and enriched with special preparations - bioactivators.
In order to understand how to arrange a compost pit in the country, you need to figure out how the compost matures. Dry foliage, tree branches, weeds, soil and manure are the main elements for composting. All these components saturate each other, decompose and rot under the influence of air and moisture, and the result is an excellent fertilizer.
This whole process takes about two years, which is why the most common design of the compost pit has become a two-section one. The two-section compost pit has two compartments. The first compartment is filled with components, left for maturation, or after two years it is actively used, and the second is regularly replenished with fresh waste.
Compost pit materials
To create fertilizer, only decaying substances are suitable, such as:
Any vegetables and fruits, fresh and boiled;
Tea, coffee, compote;
Grass, hay, leaves, weeds;
Bark of trees, branches, roots;
Wood ash;
Paper products;
Wood waste;
Very often, the remnants of cooked food are thrown into the compost pit, which is quite acceptable if all the components of the dish are capable of being processed, rotted, and decomposed.
Objects made of plastic, rubber, bone, iron, artificial fabrics must not be used for compost.
Making an open compost pit
To set up such a pit, it is enough to do a few simple operations: dig a hole of the required size (depending on the expected amount of compost) and a depth of about 50 cm. The walls can be overlaid with roofing material, linoleum or slate. Put branches, foliage, weeds and other plant components at the bottom of the pit, and pour waste on top. All this is covered with grass or tarpaulin.
Making a closed compost pit
Such a pit is the most difficult structure of all possible, since it requires some building skills.
First, you need to mark the future structure and remove the top layer of soil 25 cm thick over the entire area.
Then a hole is dug up to a depth of 50 cm, along the perimeter of which a wooden frame is made. The height of the box should not exceed one meter, otherwise it will be very difficult to get ready-made compost. The frame can be fixed to a columnar foundation for strength, but you don't need to. Further, the frame is sheathed with boards. The timber used for the frame should be treated with something to prevent rotting, and the walls of the box should be sheathed with linoleum or rolled roofing material.
From above, the structure must be equipped with a lid with sufficiently large slots to improve air circulation in the box.
Remains of old buildings: foundations and walls can be used as the walls of the compost pit.
If you are not satisfied with the do-it-yourself compost pit, you can buy a ready-made composter - a plastic container. The best maturation of the compost in it is achieved by adding preparations for the decomposition of organic matter.
Having built such a simple device on your site, you can provide yourself with a rich harvest without any financial costs for fertilizers.
The yield depends on the quality of the soil. This is known to all gardeners. But the garden land is not always rich in nutrients. Therefore, you have to fertilize it additionally. You can use ready-made formulations or organic fertilizers. But the best option would be to build a compost pit. Thanks to her, there will be a lot to do with cut grass and food waste. And fertilizer from it will turn out to be no worse than store compost. The only thing left is to choose a convenient design and appreciate it.
Choosing a place for a compost pit
Before proceeding with the construction, it is necessary to determine the place for the compost heap. Observance of some rules will help in this:
- 1. The compost pit must be located at a distance of at least 30 meters from wells, wells and other bodies of water.
- 2. Observe the distance from residential buildings. An unpleasant smell from compost should not cause inconvenience to neighbors in the country or to you.
- 3. If the site has a slope, then it is better to place the hole on the lower level.
- 4. Waste decomposes more slowly in the sun. Better to choose a place in the shade.
There must be an accessible passageway to the pit in order to pass or drive a garden wheelbarrow.
General device requirements
The compost bin must function properly. Microorganisms and bacteria that process plant waste should actively multiply in it. For this, you should create a comfortable environment. Just digging a hole or making a box isn't enough. The following factors affect the normal functioning of microorganisms:
- 1. Free access of oxygen. Thanks to it, the waste will not rot, giving off an unpleasant odor, but decompose under the influence of bacteria and earthworms.
- 2. Sufficiently high humidity.
- 3. Specific temperature - + 60-70 degrees.
You can put in the compost pit: the remains of raw or spoiled vegetables, fruits, berries, as well as various grains, grass, hay, ash, foliage, needles, bark, branches, plant roots, sawdust, shredded paper, herbivorous animal manure.
In no case: bones, potato and tomato tops, herbs treated with pesticides, weed seeds, synthetic waste, tops of infected plants.
If all the conditions are met, then the compost will turn out to be correct and of high quality..
The main requirements for the construction of a pit can be identified:
- for free access of oxygen, the compost container must be above the soil level;
- if the hole is located in the soil, then it should not be buried at a distance of more than half a meter;
- it is better to make one of the walls of the container removable or in the form of a door, so that it is convenient to take out the finished compost;
- the size of the box should be chosen based on the amount of fertilizer required. The optimal size is 1 by 2 meters. If the plot is large and a lot of compost is required, then it is better to make several containers with dimensions of 80 x 100 cm;
- the height of the container should be such that it is convenient for a person to loosen the contents. The optimal height is no more than 1 meter;
- do not close the bottom. It must be earthen so that worms can move freely and maintain moisture.
Based on the basic requirements, you can start looking for a suitable compost pit design.
Manufacturing options
There are several ways to make a compost pit with your own hands. They differ in size, structure and materials.
Recessed compost pit
One of the quickest and easiest ways to set up a compost pit is to dig a hole in the soil. But this option is more suitable as a temporary one, since the quality of raw materials will be low.
Due to poor oxygen access, the waste in such compost will not decompose, but rot. To obtain normal humus, they need to be loosened and mixed frequently. Otherwise, the smell of rotting waste attracts a lot of flies.
The deepening for the pit should be 40-60 cm. Any size of the sides can be made, but up to 70 cm. With large sizes, the soil will begin to crumble.
If a large pit is needed, then its walls need to be strengthened. For this, boards or slate are suitable.
Surface design
An equally simple, fast and low-cost way is to stack vegetable waste in the form of a small stack. True, there are significant drawbacks here. For example, it will be very inconvenient to loosen it. And getting ready-made humus from below is also problematic.
If there is no other option, then before spreading the waste, you need to lay a layer of branches on the soil for better air circulation. It is advisable to choose a place in the shade. Cover the top with an opaque material, for example, roofing felt. Surface compost will be ready in 1.5-2 years.
If there is a lot of waste, several heaps can be organized. And while one matures, add waste to the second. You can arrange a compost heap in the garden bed, which is resting. And the next year, plant zucchini or cucumbers on it.
From planks
A common composting option is a bin. It can be composed of 1, 2 or 3 sections. Experienced gardeners recommend a box with three sections according to Finnish technology. This is convenient, because ready-made compost is stored in one compartment, in the second it matures, and in the third, waste is laid.
It can also be made stationary or mobile. For the movable version, it is enough to make the bottom with small cracks and attach the wheels. The height of the box should be no more than 1 meter in height. For sections, the optimal width of the sides is 0.5-0.7 meters. With this size, it is convenient to lay and loosen waste, as well as get ready-made compost. The boards for the construction of the composter should be treated with a protective compound that will protect them from moisture and insects.
In order to make a box into three sections, you need:
- dig 8 processed bars into the ground;
- attach the partition boards at a distance of 0.5-1 cm;
- the bottom can be made from planks or large branches can be put.
If desired, each compartment can be supplemented with doors above. Pallets are a good idea to build walls.
Compost basket
This option can be made even by inexperienced gardeners. Special tools and special efforts are not required to make the basket. Necessary materials:
- welded metal mesh with cells measuring 50x50 or 40x40 mm, 3 m long, 70 to 100 cm wide (this is the future height of the basket);
- black geotextile or polyethylene film 3.5 meters long and 75-105 cm wide;
- large office clips - 10 pcs .;
- knitting wire or plastic clamps for fastening metal mesh.
Prepare scissors for metal and ordinary scissors, tape measure and pliers from the tools.
Expand the grid, straighten it and measure the length of 3 meters. Roll into a cylinder and join the ends with an overlap of about 20 cm. Fasten the mesh at both ends with wire or clamps.
Measure and cut the required size of the film or geotextile. Roll it up and place it inside the basket. Distribute the material well along the walls. Fold the top edge outward and secure with clips. The compost bin is ready. It can be placed in an old basin and made mobile.
When filling the basket with the first layer, you need to put branches. Sprinkle vegetable and food waste with a small amount of soil. Then spill the contents with water, cover with a film on top and leave to ripen.
Slate
A fairly affordable and easy way to make a compost pit from slate. Especially if there are unnecessary sheets of roofing material. And even if they are damaged, the compost will benefit from it. Air will flow through the cracks, which will have a beneficial effect on humus. And the slate will act as a limiter for waste so that it does not spread over a large area.
To build a box, you need to do the following:
- 1. outline a drawing of the future composter. If you plan to make a box into two sections, then their size should be 0.8 by 1 meter or 1 by 1 meter. The height of the three walls is optimal - 70-100 cm, and the front one - 30-50 cm for more convenient laying of waste and retrieving the contents.
- 2. Choose a location for the pit and remove the top layer of soil by 20 cm. This will allow earthworms and moisture to flow freely into the compost.
- 3. To fix the slate, install wooden or metal posts around the perimeter.
- 4. Place the slate sheets in such a way that there is a gap of 20-25 cm between the bottom edge and the soil. This will allow better oxygen supply.
Concrete structure
A more expensive and laborious construction is made of concrete. If it is built below ground level, it will be awkward to use.
Construction of a concrete compost pit consists of the following stages:
- 1. Outline the place where the structure will be located. The size of the sides can be from 1 meter or more if a lot of humus is required.
- 2. Dig a foundation pit 0.5 m deep.
- 3. Install plywood or plank formwork to the full depth of the pit.
- 4. Between the ground and the tree, it is advisable to lay a reinforcing mesh.
- 5. Mix a mortar of cement (1 part), sand (2 parts) and gravel (4 parts).
- 6. Pour the resulting solution into the prepared formwork and pierce it repeatedly to the bottom with reinforcement or a thin pipe. This will avoid air voids. Leave to dry for 1-1.5 weeks.
- 7. Use bricks to build the walls of the compost pit above the ground. You don't need to make it solid. It should have holes for air circulation. The height of one of the walls is 0.5 meters for the convenience of folding waste and taking out the finished fertilizer. The other three are 1-1.5 m in size.
In such a design, plant waste will be processed for at least two years. To speed up the process, you can use special solutions and regularly spill the contents.
You can also make a composter with one or two compartments. One will store the ripe fertilizer, and the second will be constantly replenished. The bottom must be left earthen for free movement of worms.
Decorating the compost heap
Whatever structure is built for the compost, it is unlikely to be attractive in appearance. Therefore, it is advisable to think about a way to decorate it. This is especially true for small areas where all buildings are in plain sight. You can hide the composter using the following techniques:
- plant tall plants or hedges near it;
- plant climbing plants around the perimeter;
- decorate with artificial materials, for example, a masking net;
- build a decorative fence, behind which the heap will be completely hidden.
Thus, the compost pit will not only be a source of environmentally friendly and beneficial fertilizers. She will become a decoration of the garden.
Compost is a fertilizer made from organic raw materials, suitable for enriching the soil in flower beds, vegetable beds and under fruit trees in the garden. It loosens clay soil and retains moisture in sandy soil.
Gardeners usually buy compost from garden shops. But with some effort and patience, you can get "home" compost.
High quality compost comes from organic waste:
The more varied the organic waste, the better the compost will be.
- unsuitable for food (rotten), but not affected by diseases of fruits (berries, fruits, vegetables, cereals);
- used tea leaves and coffee grounds;
- straw and healthy plants (grass, flowers);
- foliage, branches, bark, roots and ash of trees and shrubs;
- sawdust;
- needles;
- small pieces of waste paper (napkins, shredded newspapers, packaging, cardboard);
- fragments of natural fabrics (cotton, flax, wool, silk);
- second-year manure of herbivorous farm animals (cows, horses).
It is forbidden to throw into the compost pit:
- excrement from dogs and cats;
- bones;
- insect pests (for example, beetles - dung and Colorado);
- potato and tomato tops;
- tops treated with chemical fertilizers;
- perennial rhizome weeds;
- coal ash;
- synthetic waste (rubber, plastic and cellophane, scrap metal).
Waste can be simply piled up in the most inconspicuous corner of the site, or you can prepare a neat pit for them, which you will not be ashamed to show even to guests.
Making such a compost pit with your own hands is not a big deal. For this, the ubiquitous materials and a little patience are enough.
For information on how to build a dog kennel yourself, read.Tools and materials for work
The compost bin is often constructed from planks or blocks.
For this you will need:
- circular saw, jigsaw, circular saw or ordinary hacksaw - for cutting wood;
- chisel;
- screwdriver;
- roulette;
- spirit level (or level);
- garden shovel or drill;
- hammer and nails;
- screws (ideally galvanized);
- metallic profile;
- boards from any tree species;
- dye;
- door handles and latches.
To protect wood from moisture and insects:
- moisture resistant enamel;
- varnish with antifungal impregnation.
A compost pit with walls filled with concrete will serve you faithfully for a long time.
To make concrete you will need:
- river sand;
- crushed stone or gravel;
- cement;
- water.
Sometimes you don't want to spend a lot of time and energy on making a compost pit. In this case, it is easier to purchase ready-made containers and barrels for compost made of plastic. Such composters have an attractive appearance, but they will also cost more.
The advantages of a plastic composter:
- sealed container prevents leaks and, as a result, contamination of drinking water;
- thanks to the ventilation system, the water in the container does not stagnate.
When installing a plastic tank, it is imperative to add drugs to the raw material that accelerate the decomposition of organic matter, or you can add earthworms to the future humus.
Step-by-step instructions for creating a pit
Deep compost pit
Compost in such a pit takes longer to mature, and it is more difficult to mix it, but sometimes this is the only possible option.
Dig a compost pit where, after heavy rains, water will not flow to the well. Decay products, getting into water intended for drinking, will affect its taste and health safety.
A deep hole is better because the compost will not spoil the general appearance of the site, however, it takes longer to cook in such a hole.
In order for the organic mass to receive the amount of oxygen necessary for decomposition, the pit is dug as follows.
Step 1
The soil is removed no more than 1 m deep, 2 m long and 1.5 m wide. If you overdo it with the depth of the pit, then it will be difficult to extract the ripe humus.
Step 2
20 cm recede from each wall of the pit and four columns are dug into the corners.
Step 3
The columns are connected with planks, which are fixed 5 cm apart so that all layers of compost are freely supplied with oxygen. It turns out a buried wooden box.
For an overview of the types of small architectural forms for landscape design, see. Do you want to plant flower beds for zoning your site? Learn to choose plants for.
Step 4
The finished pit is divided in half with a wooden board, so that only one half can then be filled.
Step 5
A layer of thick branches (10-15 cm), bark or straw is laid on the bottom of the pit. The resulting drainage will remove excess moisture and allow the raw materials at the bottom of the pit to ventilate.
The bottom and sides of the pit are not covered with anything, so that earthworms can freely penetrate into it, helping to form humus.
It is important to maintain a certain level of moisture in the pit. To do this, do not forget to water the compost heap from a watering can as it dries and periodically loosen the humus. Cover the pile with plastic wrap to create a sauna effect.
Now it remains to immerse suitable raw materials in the pit, from which a first-class fertilizer will later be obtained.
Organic waste is dumped into one part of the compost pit. After a while, they are thrown onto the other half. This contributes to the saturation of the contents of the pit with oxygen.
Concrete compost pit
The most durable compost pit is made from concrete. In such a pit, the side walls are poured with cement mortar, which increases its cost.
A concreted compost pit is a durable structure that will last for more than a dozen years.
Step 1
It is necessary to remove the topsoil and dig a rectangular depression 3 m long, 2 m wide and 60–80 cm deep.
Step 2
Now we make the formwork and fill the walls with a solution of crushed stone, sand and cement.
To do this, pour gravel into a ten-liter bucket and gradually pour water into it. If the bucket contains 5 liters of water (half the volume of the bucket), then you must adhere to a 2: 1 ratio (for a full bucket of gravel - 5 liters of sand).
Do not overdo it with water, otherwise numerous pores will form on the surface of the concrete. When filling walls with concrete, it should be borne in mind that the most convenient compost pits are obtained by dividing the space into two sections.
Step 3
We cover the compost pit with a netting or a metal frame lid.
If you decide to make a wooden cover, then you can drill several holes in it for ventilation.
The main thing is that the cover can be easily removed - the contents of the compost pit will have to be mixed at least once a week. One wall must also be made easily removable. Otherwise, there will be difficulties in extracting the finished compost.
Sometimes they don't dig a hole for compost, but prepare it in special boxes.
Three-section compost bin
The most rational option for storing compost will be a box, divided into three specialized sections:
- compartment for laying waste;
- compartment for turning over humus;
- compartment for matured compost.
You can make such a box from wooden boards yourself in just a few steps.
Step 1
We bury 8 wooden blocks in the ground. To protect the tree from decay, pre-lubricate with tar, old engine oil or fuel oil those parts of the pegs that end up in the soil.
Installing eight wooden posts, pre-processing them
You can attach four side bars to the fence - then you don't need to dig four holes for them, and you don't have to make the back wall of the box.
Step 2
We make partitions by connecting the pegs with boards. It is necessary to nail the boards so that there are gaps between them for free passage of air.
The front part of the first two compartments of the future box must be sheathed with boards to the middle of the height in order to then make small doors in them. In the last section, the door will be large, so we only nail one board from below.
Step 3
We strengthen the partitions and end parts of the front and rear walls by nailing the crossbeams. We attach the doors, which will be the lid at the same time.
In the front of the box we hang two small doors and one large one.
So that the box itself does not begin to decompose and does not become part of the future fertilizer, wooden parts must be pre-treated with an impregnating solution that protects against moisture and insects. The impregnation can be purchased at the store. A non-toxic agent should be chosen.
Step 4
Cover the treated box with two layers of paint (the second - after the first is completely dry). You can choose the color of the paint according to your taste - you only need to combine it with the general landscape design.
When choosing paint, keep in mind that the box will be constantly exposed to sunlight and temperature changes. It is necessary to apply paint in 2 layers
Step 5
We attach fittings to the drawer - handles and latches. The box is ready.
Compost storage facilities are usually erected for several years. Therefore, it makes sense to concrete the bottom of the box, and line it with drainage on top. You can put plastic shields on the bottom.
You will appreciate that the efforts to make a compost pit or bin are well spent when you feel that you have stopped wasting physical strength to remove large volumes of garbage from your infield. Now it is enough to add organic waste to the refined compost heap.
If you keep an eye on the compost pit (sift the fertilizer on time, add new raw materials to it), then you will have fresh compost all year round, and you will not be forced to prepare the sourdough again.
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If the soil is poor, then a container is built to create humus, which is an important part of any garden plot. The use of top dressing in the form of compost allows you to grow environmentally friendly plants and vegetables. Recommendations from experienced gardeners will help you understand how a do-it-yourself compost pit is created, the manufacturing options, photos and installation features of which can be considered in detail below.
Containers can contain multiple compartments for increased productivity
A compost pit can be easily created with your own hands. In this case, the manufacturing options can be seen in the photo. Simple products can be made from pallets, which are taken after the sale of building materials and purchased for a small amount.
It is important to choose the right location. It should be remote from housing. This should be a well-ventilated area. This will prevent bad odors from developing. Containers made from scrap materials are highly available. The finished design allows you to dispose of weeds from the site.
Useful information! The vegetation is compacted over time and, under the influence of bacteria and moisture, is converted into an excellent organic fertilizer. Ideal for cultivating a variety of crops in a vegetable garden or garden.
What is the purpose of the pit?
An excellent method of disposing of various garbage is a do-it-yourself compost pit. Manufacturing options, photos and drawings can be found in sufficient quantities on the Internet. This facility allows you to get high-quality fertilizers in the shortest possible time. This involves cutting grass, leaves and manure.
- the side walls are being assembled;
- the walls are sheathed with boards, two walls are made with gaps and two of tightly standing boards;
- boards for the back side are attached;
- the bottom is made;
- the cover is mounted;
- lower doors are installed.
Useful information! The wood from which the pit is made must be impregnated with a special solution. This will prevent damage from moisture, harmful insects and decay processes.
DIY compost pit: manufacturing options, photos and nuances
There are many ways to make compost pits in the country. It is worth choosing a type of structure that meets the requirements of a particular area.
The most famous methods are used:
- construction of a pit in a specific place. The pit should be like a well, but shallower. In this case, the walls of the pit are additionally strengthened and sheathed, but only at a height of 20-25 cm from the bottom, so that microorganisms can easily penetrate inside;
- the container is mounted in the garden area. This allows the compost mixture to be removed at any time. The pit is based on formwork. In this case, a plastic tank or a box of boards is used; It is important to install ventilation holes;
- The easiest way is to create a compost heap. This creates a substrate of sand, dried grass and gravel. Waste is laid on top, which must be reflowed.
There are many options for creating such a structure. They differ not only in materials, but also in the properties of the reservoir and dimensions.
Useful information! Before placing plant materials in the structure, you need to carefully loosen the bottom and install a ventilation hole. After rains, the pit can be covered with polyethylene to speed up the work of microorganisms.
How is a slate compost pit made in a summer cottage?
The advice of the masters will help you decide how to make a compost pit in the country from slate in order to get a reliable and durable structure.
Slate canvases will be an excellent base for the walls of the box. The design is carried out in several stages:
- suitable dimensions are determined;
- after choosing a site for the location of the structure, you need to make a small depression;
- supports made of pipes or boards are mounted in all corners;
- a pit is mounted with the help of slate sheets;
- a partition is installed in the box, which divides the space into two parts.