Secrets of clean fertilizers. How to make and fill a compost pit correctly. How to make a compost pit correctly: valuable advice from experienced summer residents Do-it-yourself compost pit from flat slate

At their summer cottage, where vegetables, fruits and berries are constantly grown, additional feeding is always needed. It is not advisable to use ordinary mineral fertilizers for your family, except in small quantities. They change the physical and chemical parameters of the soil and contribute to the acidification of the site.

Organic fertilizers are more expensive, but they restore soil well and stimulate crop growth. One of them - compost - can be made from components that can be found in abundance in any summer cottage, and making a compost pit with your own hands will require little financial costs and a little time. But at any time on the site there will be something to feed the plants.

The benefits of compost and how fertilizer works

Compost is plant residues processed by soil microorganisms and earthworms. Passing through the digestive tract, useful nutrients - nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other microelements receive an organic shell.

In it, they are better preserved and better absorbed by plants. People have learned to artificially produce such fertilizers. They are called chelated, but they are expensive. A large plot requires a lot of complex mixtures, which significantly increases the cost of the crop.

By making the right compost pit and learning how to place the compost for maturation, you can significantly reduce the cost of land renewal and increase the yield for free.

Composting raw materials

Anything can be composted:

leaves;

green freshly cut grass;

manure;

branches, sawdust, bark, paper;

algae and other pond plants;

peat;

fecal matter from the sewer.

It is better to take several components. It is desirable that the composition includes nitrogen and carbohydrate ingredients, as well as land from the site. Nitrogenous substances include: fresh grass, manure or dung, fresh vegetables, fruits. Carbonaceous components include paper, dry grass, sawdust, straw, cardboard.

Adds nutritional value to ash. To make the compost more saturated, you can add mineral complex or one-component fertilizers at the end. In any case, compost will help increase the amount of humus in the soil and revitalize the soil with bacteria.

Composting methods - with and without oxygen

There are two methods of composting - aerobic and anaerobic. In the first case, microorganisms work, which need oxygen for life. Such bacteria live in the soil and decompose plant debris - grass, roots, manure.

To obtain aerobic fertilization, you need to know how to properly make a compost pit with your own hands in order to provide air access. In addition, the mixture must be periodically loosened and inverted to allow oxygen to flow to all components. The disadvantage of the aerobic method is that some of the nutrients are eroded or oxidized and are not beneficial, as well as the time spent.

Video: How to make a compost pit with your own hands

Another method is anaerobic. This is the fermentation of components without air access. How to make a compost pit in the country so that oxygen does not penetrate inside:

the material should be tightly knocked down, and from the inside you can make a lining with a film;

the components are packed tightly and compacted to remove excess air.

From above, such a shoulder is closed with a hermetically sealed film, which is pressed to the ground with heavy stones or earth. Further, the process takes place without human intervention. The advantage of this method is that almost all nutrients are preserved. Minus - it is difficult to achieve complete tightness of compost pits. Sometimes it is better to buy a container for storing raw materials.

Varieties of composter

A simple DIY compost pit can be made in one day. No special materials or tools - everything that is at hand will do - boards, slate, plastic panels, plexiglass, mesh.

It is necessary to decide which method of composting will be in priority: aerobic or anaerobic. If the first, then there are more options for making a compost heap with your own hands. If it is anaerobic, then every effort will have to be made to make the structure airtight. It may be necessary to apply concreting, but such a shoulder will serve for a long time.

Classic earthen pit

Compost pit in the ground is done as a depression no more than 50 cm, so that it is convenient to care for the ripening mixture. The sizes are arbitrary. Any length and width can be made.

More often, this design is used for anaerobic fermentation, but for this you need to concreted the walls and bottom. The fact is that during the decomposition of plant residues, the liquid flows down. If the bottom is left open, the nutrients will be lost and absorbed into the soil. But if a layer of earth, straw or peat is laid on a closed bottom, then they will be preserved and will benefit the plants.

The simplest way to make a compost pit is from a concrete ring. For this:

Digging a shallow hole - 60 cm.

The bottom is poured with a solution and allowed to dry.

A concrete ring is installed using a crane or tractor height 90 cm.

Plaster the joint between the bottom and the ring.

The convenience is that the edges will rise above ground level and prevent sediment from entering the compost. Concrete can be painted in any color or decorated as you wish to create a beautiful compost pit - you can plant tall plants around the concrete ring with your own hands, and they will hide the storage. If desired, an overlap with a hole for a hatch is installed on the ring.

Slate collar

If old slate is lying around, you can fix it on boards and make walls for the compost pit. It will not be quite a pit, since it is located on the surface of the earth. Rather a pile or a heap, but framed and protected. The do-it-yourself slate compost pit is suitable for the aerobic (oxygen) method of composting.

Stages of work:

Choose a place and conduct a preliminary marking - length, width. The height of the shoulder should be not higher than 1.5 m. At higher altitudes, it will be difficult for air to get inside and maturation will slow down. Raw materials can even rot or sour.

Dig holes in the corners with a drill and put pillars.

Between the posts, nail the boards on which the slate will hold.

Using a drill, carefully make holes in the slate and attach it to the boards.

On the one hand, the height is made less so that it is convenient to get the finished compost. The roof must be made, because rain will disturb the maturation of the mixture.

The bottom is made at will - open or closed. Peat, soil, chopped branches or sawdust, straw can be used as drainage.

DIY board composter

A do-it-yourself compost pit from boards is the most common method. First, the markings are made and the corner posts are installed. Then one of the options:

the arrangement of the boards is dense, without air holes - more suitable for cold storage of manure or anaerobic composting;

with air holes - they can be up to 5 cm wide.

It is better to make the composter mobile - on wheels so that it can be hidden in a warm place during the winter. When the temperature drops, bacteria slow down and the maturation of the mixture is disturbed. In the warmth, the process continues and by the spring the fertilizer will be ready.

When used for composting worms, the most effective type is California red worms. They multiply quickly and eat a lot, but do not tolerate low temperatures. They die in the middle latitudes. Vermicompost is prepared in a warm room with good ventilation. In the summer, the box is put out on the street, and in the winter it is removed in the warmth.

Compost pile made of mesh

An economical version of the composter is made of ordinary metal mesh. It is fixed on poles or metal pipes dug into the ground. The plus is that the shoulder is completely open from all sides for air. To speed up the maturation of the compost, it is advisable to add a solution of EM preparations while forming the layers.

Sealed plastic container

Sealed containers are used for anaerobic fermentation of ingredients or for silage of grass. Such composters look presentable and aesthetically pleasing, do not spoil the appearance of the site. Minus - you cannot increase the volume, and you will also have to loosen the layers when preparing aerobic compost.

Sump well as a composter

There is a technology in which fecal matter is processed by anaerobic bacteria and becomes organic fertilizer. But for this, the condition must be met: do not pour water with detergents and chlorine into the well, since these substances cause the death of microorganisms.

Any land plot needs periodic fertilization. And what could be better than quality compost? Buying it and then bringing it to the site is a long and expensive task. Why not produce this valuable fertilizer directly on your own land, because all the conditions have been created for this? During the warm season, a lot of organic and plant waste accumulates on the site, which must be disposed of. It turns out that you can combine the cleaning of the site from waste and the production of compost from them. Let's take a look at how a compost pit can be built with our own hands, what is needed for this, and how to avoid elementary mistakes in the production of fertilizers.

Composting mind on a land plot is designed for laying all kinds of plant and organic residues, waste, surplus of various products. Layered in layers, these ingredients gradually decompose into high quality fertilizer. The question arises: how to build a compost pit with your own hands so that fertilizer can be obtained in it during the season? To do this, you need to make some effort to help the compost mature faster.

With proper care, you can get ready-made compost within 3 months. If you do not pay special attention to the pit, the process of waste decomposition will continue for about two years.

Compost pit requirements

For normal and fast maturation of compost, it needs warmth, oxygen and moisture. How to make a compost pit correctly so that its contents turn into high-quality fertilizer, and the pile itself does not harm the plantings and people on the site? To do this, you should familiarize yourself with some of the requirements for such structures:

Most of the compost heap should rise above the soil level. Thanks to this, the heap warms up better, provides the convenience of its loosening and watering. It is recommended to deepen the hole by about 50 cm, leaving obstacles above the soil surface about 1 m. The ideal width of the structure is 1.5 m and its length is 2 m;
If there is a source of drinking water on the site, for example, a well, a well or a spring, then the distance from it to the pit should not be less than 25 m;
It is advisable to place the pit in a place that will be removed from the house or gazebo. In this case, the unpleasant smell that may come from the compost heap will not annoy the owners of the site;
It is advisable to place the pit in partial shade so that it is not constantly exposed to the sun. This will help it dry out;
How to make a compost pit so that runoff from it does not enter the source of clean water through the soil? To do this, if the site has a slope, it is enough to place the pit below the source;
You can not place a hole under fruit trees, as this can lead to their death;
The dimensions of the pit are chosen taking into account the amount of plant debris and waste that is available in the country and will be in the pit for two years;
DIY compost pit options should take into account that it is recommended to choose the height of the fences so that it is convenient to loosen and collect compost.

Tip: The bottom of the pit should not be covered with slate, metal, rubber or foil. They will prevent moisture from rising up from the soil, as a result of which the compost will constantly dry out. The bottom must certainly be earthen. But the walls can be closed with any material.

Dos and don'ts to throw in a compost pit

A self-built compost pit will justify its purpose if the following types of waste are laid in it:

leaves, bark, needles, shredded branches and roots;
weeds cut and cut, grass;
bird droppings and rotted two-year manure;
vegetables, fruits and berries, including peeling;
leftovers of coffee, tea;
hay, sawdust, shavings, straw;
ash from wood burning;
paper, paper bags, cardboard, napkins.

Tip: If a thick layer of fresh grass is laid in the hole, then the process of its decomposition can take six months or a year. In this case, cover the grass with soil.

You cannot lay in the pit:

inorganic products that do not degrade. These are rubber, plastic bags, plastic, metal, synthetic products;
pet feces, as they may contain helminth eggs;
bones;
tops of tomatoes and potatoes, as it is often infected with late blight;
plants treated with chemicals;
ripe weed seeds;
thick branches that rot for a long time.

Possible manufacturing options

A do-it-yourself compost heap can be made in several versions. Let's list them all, indicating the features of each of them.

An ordinary heap where waste is piled

Select a place on the site where the compost heap will be located;
As various waste accumulates, they are stacked in a selected place. In this case, it is advisable to lay organic matter in layers. Alternate food waste with grass and manure;
When the height of the heap reaches 1 meter, make several depressions in it, into which pour special compost liquid. This will speed up the maturation of the compost;
With regular loosening and watering, the compost will mature in 3 months.

This is ideal for those who want to get by with a minimum of effort but still get some compost. It is desirable to form several such heaps, each of which will rot gradually.

Simple pit

A simple compost pit arrangement in the country with your own hands will be provided by an ordinary pit dug in a chosen place:

The depth of the pit should be shallow, which will provide easier maintenance of its contents. Better to make it wider;
Branches, hay, tree bark are laid at the bottom of the pit;
Next are the layers of food and plant waste;
Since the temperature in the pit is not very high, it is advisable to cover it with foil.

This is the least successful way to set up a compost pit. It will take more effort to mix its contents, and the pit will warm up less. The advantages of such a pit are its small area and simplicity of the device.

Box made of wood or other material

How to make a compost pit with your own hands so that it is convenient and inexpensive? Use boards, bars, slate, metal sheets, etc. for this.

The arrangement will be as follows:

The top layer of soil about 40 cm thick is removed on the soil;
Pegs are driven in along the perimeter of the pit;
A fence is installed around the pit. It can be wood (boards, pallets, boards, bars) or some other. Any material is allowed: flat or corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets;
The height of the fence should not exceed 1 m. This is necessary for the convenience of mixing the compost;
From above, such a structure is covered with plywood or film.

This design allows the compost to warm up well, therefore it is considered optimal for use on land.

There is an original version of the wooden box. Its lower edges do not reach the soil surface by 25-30 cm. That is, boards or other material are fixed at a certain distance from the ground. In the lower part of such a box, the compost matures faster, as it was laid earlier. As it matures, the compost is pulled out and the heap settles down. Such a heap practically does not need to be loosened. It is always possible to get some ready-made compost.

Concrete pit

If you decide to build a durable structure that will last for decades, then follow the advice on how to make a compost heap in a concrete pit.

The structure is equipped as follows:

a plot is marked for future construction (approximately 2x3 meters);
the soil is selected by 60-80 cm;
a formwork with a thickness of about 10 cm is being built around the perimeter of the future building;
the concrete solution is mixed;
concrete is poured into the formwork;
after the concrete hardens, the formwork is removed;
waste is laid in layers in a concrete pit;
from above, the pit is covered with wooden shields or covered with a film.

This is the most costly way to build a compost pit in terms of effort and investment. Such a structure should be placed where the heap will definitely not create any difficulties, since it will be impossible to move it to another place.

Tip: It is recommended to divide the composting facility into at least 2 sections. While in one of them you will put fresh waste collected in the current season, in the second section last year's compost will decompose.

It should also be noted that there are options for organizing a compost pit from a barrel or special plastic containers for compost, but in addition, you will need to use drugs that accelerate waste processing, or to add Californian worms.

How to properly operate a compost pit

We figured out how to build a DIY compost pit using various schemes. It remains to illuminate the question of how to properly care for the compost pit during the season. It is enough to perform the following simple manipulations:

Loosen the compost periodically with a fork. In this case, oxygen will be provided inside the heap. In addition, the waste will be mixed with each other, which will accelerate their decomposition.
Water the pile at least occasionally and more often during dry season. Thus, the contents of the pit will be moistened and rotted better. Overdried compost almost completely stops decomposing.
It is recommended to cover the top of the compost with a dark film. This will create a greenhouse effect inside the heap and raise its temperature. The film will keep moisture inside and prevent weeds from germinating. In a covered heap, the compost will mature in 3-4 months. If not covered, the ripening process will take a whole year.
Periodically plant in the pile of California worms, which loosen the contents of the pile and partially process it.
If possible, add decomposition accelerators to the contents of the compost heap. For example, Kompostin, Baikal EM-1, Embionik, Kompostar, Saneks EcoCompost, Bioforce Compost and others.

A properly constructed compost pit, which is regularly maintained, can provide the owners of the site with high-quality and practically free fertilizer in a very short time.

How can a compost pit be made with your own hands - the options for making a photo will be clearly demonstrated.

Every experienced gardener knows that in order to improve the crop, you need to fertilize the soil with compost. It will be much easier to save money on the purchase of fertilizer if there is a do-it-yourself compost pit on the site, which is not difficult to do. In a private home, a sufficient amount of organic waste is accumulated, suitable for the formation of compost. Thanks to fertilization, sandy soil will retain moisture better, and clayey soil will become much crumbly. Below are the main recommendations for the construction of a pit, as well as what needs to be put into a structure for a high-quality formation.

How to choose a seat

Before deciding on the location of the structure, it is important to think over all the nuances. Do not forget about the water table, as the fertilizer should not come into contact with them. Dig a ditch at a level lower than the well. There must be a distance of at least 25-30 m between the well, the reservoir and the prepared ditch.

The structure should be in the shade, and not under the scorching rays of the sun. In the second case, rotting will stop, and the humus will simply begin to dry out. It is important to equip a compost pit near the fence in the shade or near the house. The building should be located away from the neighboring house so that sometimes aromas that appear do not reach them.

Simple pit

In the process of arranging the most common compost pit, you will need to dig a depression in the ground 60-100 cm wide and 50 cm deep, 200 cm long. Leaves, weeds and other plant residues from the garden are laid out at the bottom of the ditch. Then the remnants of food waste are poured into the recess and again covered with various weeds. A similar procedure is repeated with the formation of each layer, since with this technology flies and stench will not appear. The compost pit will look much more neat if you enclose the recess with a wooden side around the perimeter.

It will be much easier to count on quality fertilizer if you periodically water organic residues. Do not forget to mix the compost with a pitchfork, covering it with plastic on top.

Closed do-it-yourself compost pit

Before deciding on one of the types of structures, you need to understand in more detail what compost pits are. In addition to an open ditch, you can also choose a closed structure. Making the structure will take more time, but it is considered more practical. The pit consists of two sections, where one section is for new raw materials, and the other for old compost.

It is very important, before making a closed-type compost pit on the site, to think over the design scheme and not forget about the cover. The process of preparing a structure involves the following stages:

Level the area where the structure will be located by removing the top layer of the earth.
Prepare the ditches in the shape of a rectangle. Width - 1.5-2 m, depth - 70 cm, length - up to 3 m.
Decorate the walls when using concrete, they should be 10 cm thick.When arranging a compost pit with your own hands, make sure that the walls are 30 cm higher than the level of the pit;
Put either a metal cover on top of the structure. It will also be possible to complement the structure with a wooden cover. In the latter case, drill some holes for ventilation.

Slate Compost Pit

This design option is considered very convenient to use. Slate is a fairly durable material in which it is convenient to store humus. When making a box from slate, first take all measurements and think over where it will be located, and also think over the number of sections.

Before making a slate compost pit, you need to dig a small rectangular depression in the ground. After that, at the corners of the ditch, make supports using boards or metal pipes. Lay out slate sheets along the contours of the ditch to form a symmetrical rectangle. If necessary, use slate to divide the structure into two or three compartments.

Regardless of the option for making a compost pit with your own hands, you need to remember a few rules for the rapid formation of fertilizer. Remember to moisten organic debris with water and add live bacteria composting agents.

Wooden compost bin

It will be easier to prepare a comfortable compost pit with your own hands if you pay attention to this design. A wooden box implies the presence of three sections: the first is for the receipt of waste, the second is for turning over the humus, and the third is for storing the ripe fertilizer. During the manufacture of the fixture, wooden planks are required.

The process of making a box involves the following steps:

Prepare 8 pieces of wood. Apply engine oil or tar to the bottom to prevent rotting wood.
Bury the posts in the ground. If desired, attach 4 bars to the fence so as not to dig an additional hole under them and not to make the back of the box.
Make partitions in the drawer by attaching boards to the pegs. Small gaps should form between the boards for free air access.
When decorating the first two compartments, sheathe the pegs with boards to the middle, since then it will be more convenient to attach the doors to the structure from above.
In the process of decorating the third compartment, nail one small board, this section will be the largest with one massive door.
Install crossbars to form baffles, back and end.
Attach the doors, they will act as a cover. Install two small and one large door on the front of the drawer.

The wooden box will not decompose and become part of the compost if the boards are pretreated. Choose a non-toxic treatment in the store that will protect the wood from moisture and insects.

Regardless of how long the compost pit should be and how long humus will form, do not forget to paint the wooden boards.

Paint the surface in two coats. Choose the color of your preference, the main thing is that it fits perfectly into the landscape. In the final step, install the latches and handles.

If you are at a loss as to whether you need a bottom at the compost bin, but want to install the structure for several years, then consider a concrete bottom or make it out of plastic. Lay concrete on top with drainage so that the process of humus formation is as efficient as possible.

Tire compost pit

This design option is considered budgetary and at the same time easy to manufacture. If you have old tires in your house, then feel free to move on to making the structure. When preparing the structure, use 4-6 tires. Before making a compost pit with your own hands, cut out the inner diameter of the tires to increase the size of the future structure.

Place the tires on top of each other and fill in the already prepared waste in the middle of the structure, then place the reinforcement in the center (2-3 units). With its help, sometimes move the layers so that oxygen flows to the lower layers of humus. By the onset of autumn, the entire structure will be filled. Leave the compost in the tire cylinder until spring. In the spring, the contents will settle, and you can remove the tires by extracting the finished humus. Then repeat the procedure for building a compost pit.

DIY compost: manufacturing options

It will be much easier to count on high-quality humus if you not only prepare the correct design, but also learn how to sort the waste. High-quality fertilizer will be obtained from organic waste such as:

rotten fruits and vegetables;
needles, straw, leaves, branches and roots of trees and plants;
coffee grounds and tea leaves;
manure;
small pieces of paper and newspaper.

It is important to understand not only what can be thrown into the compost pit, but also what waste is not suitable for the formation of humus. This category includes the following products:

tops from tomatoes and potatoes;
bones;
tops treated with chemicals;
excrement of domestic animals, dangerous insects (beetles);
synthetic waste;
coal ash.

Thanks to the arrangement of the compost pit, you can count on free and completely natural fertilization. Choose the type of construction, taking into account your budget and capabilities.

Compost from wooden pallets - video

A compost pit is a place where organic waste is disposed of. All garden waste here is decomposed by microorganisms. This later becomes the basis for organic fertilizers. how make a compost pit with your own hands covered in this article.

There are such heaps in some way on every personal plot. These are the usual heaps to which garbage is dumped. But this waste can be turned into valuable fertilizer. To do this, it is necessary to design the pits correctly or make special boxes. In this case, you can increase the amount of valuable fertilizer and the speed of its creation.

Making a compost pit correctly is easy enough using available tools and building materials that can be found in the country and any personal plot.

Compost pit construction principles

Why make these pits and what is the use of them? In such pits, optimal conditions are created for the life of microorganisms, bacteria and worms, which contribute to the early formation of compost and an increase in the rate of its formation. These organisms live under certain conditions:

sufficient moisture;
elevated temperature;
sufficient oxygen.

What is needed for all of the above conditions to be met.

The required volume of the composting facility must be at least 1 cubic meter. This will keep the high temperature stable.
Gaps on the sides of the structure are made for regular oxygen supply to the inner layers of the compost heap.
The top cover must be removable so that moisture can flow in sufficient quantities.
The bottom of the structure should stand on the ground so that worms and bacteria can make their way inside.
The front wall should be removable or discarded so that the finished compost can be removed.

Watch the video! Making a compost

For the manufacture of a compost pit, you can use those materials that are found in the summer cottage: the remains of slate, corrugated board, boards, mesh or car tires. It is possible to build a pit with more durable materials, for example, kick out of bricks. Special structures made of plastic or metal are also sold; they are easier to install and transport.

Important! The compost pit should be installed at least 20 m away from drinking water sources. It is not permissible for the water to flow from the pit towards the well or pool.

Choosing a place for a compost pit

The compost pit should not become a source of groundwater contamination. No need to make a hole in places where water stagnates.

Things to remember when choosing a pit location:

20 meters to the places where drinking water accumulates. These are wells, wells, ponds. It is imperative to make sure that rainwater does not drain from the compost pit in their direction.
10 meters to residential buildings. We must also take into account the buildings of our neighbors. Be sure to follow the direction of the wind so that the unpleasant smell does not overshadow the rest. An excellent location option would be the far corner of the garden so that the pit does not interfere and is not conspicuous.
Maintain a distance from trees and shrubs so that they do not feed on rotting products that enter the groundwater. This can damage both the plantings themselves and the fruits.
Partial shade is a good place. The bright sun will dry out the contents too much, it will have to be constantly moisturized.
In order not to spoil the external impression, the pit is installed in an inconspicuous place. It would be nice to lay a path to it so that you could bring the filling into the pit on a wheelbarrow.

Advice!The compost pit can be decorated if desired. Plant curly flowers or a fence.

Making a compost pit with your own hands

To make a compost pit with your own hands, they use improvised tools and materials that can be found in most yards. Good construction will last for a long time, helping to turn debris and waste into fertilizer that will benefit your plants. There are several types of structures, consider the design of each of them and the manufacturing options.

Compost pit in the soil

To create a compost pit in the ground, you must:

Choose the right place.
Remove the top layer of soil of any length, 1.5 m wide.
Deepen 0.5m.
Pour a sand pillow so that excess water is drained from the bottom.

Cut branches (for drainage and aeration of the heap);
Grass;
Dry leaves;
Sawdust;
Food waste;
Manure;
Weeds.

Sprinkle soil or peat between the layers and spill water. If you need to speed up the process, you can chop it with a shovel before stacking all the contents.

The pile should rise a maximum of one meter from the ground, its total height will be 1.5 m. From above you need to cover with something, you can slate. When the temperature outside is very high, water should be used.

In just two seasons, the whole pile will turn into fertilizer under the most normal conditions. This method is the most economical and simplest.
Additionally, you can use EM drugs. In order to process waste to microorganisms in the pit, a temperature of +4 degrees is enough.

Compost pit made of boards

A compost box is made from the boards for ease of use and acceleration of the disposal process. The size 1 * 1.5m is the most convenient and suitable for these purposes.

Phased construction of a structure made of boards:

Location determination.
Markup.
Removing the top layer of sod 10 cm thick.
In the corners, you need to dig in copper pipes, insert bars that will serve as supports. If necessary, they must be supported.
Wood materials to be used are recommended to be treated with protective agents. When decaying, substances are released that will damage the boards.
It is necessary to choose boards stronger and fix them with self-tapping screws. A distance of up to 5 cm is left between the boards so that the air can pass in a heap.
A distance of about 30 cm is left below, so that ready-made fertilizers can be selected, and new ones will be reported from above.
As an alternative to boards, construction pallets are used. They can be connected together or disassembled into separate boards, from which you can build a box.
It is necessary to make sure that the pit is covered from heavy rainfall and bright sun. To do this, you can make a convenient lid on which to adjust the handle. It will be convenient to fix it on the back wall.

It is necessary to put the contents there through the top, and from the bottom to get ready-made fertilizer. The order remains the same as when laying a hole in the ground.

Slate Compost Pit

One of the positive properties of slate is its strength. The material will not suffer from decay of the contents. You can choose the one that is convenient or available.

It can be either flat or sheet version.
How to make a composter:

Make markings and deepen the sheets prepared in advance. From the outside, they are fixed with a crate made of wood or metal.
A more durable option would be to use in-depth metal pipes in the corners, to which a frame made of bars is attached and sheathed with slate.

If there are wooden parts, they are covered with special products so that they do not rot under the influence of the contents. The cover can be made from plywood or planks. In such a device, the front wall is made 2 times lower than the others. You can also use a film or cover material, because it is very convenient to fix them on solid bases.

Compost pit made of corrugated board

There is one plus in using corrugated board for making a compost box - you can immediately choose a material that is not afraid of corrosion.

How to make the construction correctly:

Choose a location and make a base. You can use metal or wood.
The size of the box can also be adjusted to the size of the sheets. In it, if desired, you can build several sections.
The base is made according to the same principle as in a wooden box.
The corrugated board is fixed from the outside, self-tapping screws with gaps of 3-5 cm are used for this.
The top is made of boards or plywood. It is possible to coat the frame with a protective compound to extend its life.

Advice! In the warm season, the metal gets very hot, so you need to monitor the moisture level in the contents.

Wire mesh compost bin

You can also make a waste container from a metal mesh. Then you need to make it in the form of a cylinder. The undoubted advantages of this design are that air gets into it well, the contents are ventilated, and not rotten. These structures are easy to manufacture, lightweight, can be transported and assembled.

Procedure:

The net should be of the required length and with a 20 cm margin for entry.
Wrap or garden textiles must be the same size.
You can fasten the mesh with wire, put textiles or film inside.
To make the structure more stable, it is strengthened from the outside with beams. Sometimes they are added in drops.
Secure the edges of the material that is lying on the bottom from the outside with simple stationery clamps.

To simplify the task, you can use huge garbage bags. You can use special bags available from gardening stores. They fill it according to the same general principle, starting from the branches.

Compost pit made of concrete

This pit has several advantages:

its walls will maintain the required temperature for a long time;
she is not afraid of any environmental influences;
she is not afraid of excessive moisture or sun.

If you make such a pit with several departments, then the use will be much more convenient and practical. For example, in one compartment there is compost from one season, in another from the next, and in the third - ready-made fertilizer.

Procedure:

The pit should have a proportion of 1.5m * 3.5m already in finished form. A depth of 70cm will be the most comfortable.
It is necessary to make the formwork, leaving a distance of about 15 cm to the edges of the pit. You can use plywood or boards.
The walls of the finished structure should be 40 cm higher than the ground level.
The iron mesh is installed inside and poured with concrete.
To make concrete, cement, screenings and crushed stone are needed in a proportion of 1 * 3 * 3.
You can tamp it with a shovel or fittings so that there are no voids left in the walls.
The formwork is removed when the concrete has hardened to the end, after about 14 days.
As a cover, you can use a special covering material or wood.

It is worth remembering that when using a concrete pit, the process does not go very quickly. To speed it up, you can purchase special products and manually add earthworms.

Conclusion

There are no particular tweaks to the construction of the compost pit. The materials that are used are in any garden or cottage.
The benefit of a compost pit is that household and household waste will be disposed of in it.
When the compost pit is arranged correctly, fertilizer is formed in it, which does not contain any harmful substances, it is environmentally friendly. Its use will increase the yield. Rational use and economic approach will help to reduce material costs and improve the environmental situation.
To achieve the best result in the manufacture of a compost pit or box, you can use the advice from the article, read more about the photo and video of the manufacture.

Watch the video! How to make a compost pit yourself

If you got bad land on the site, on which nothing wants to grow, start enriching it. It is easiest to bring black soil, but it is not always possible to get it, especially in urban areas. It is also unprofitable to bring in abundant chemistry: in the end, you yourself will consume it. One thing remains: to make the nutrient soil ourselves. Or rather, learn how to make healthy compost. It is only unknowing people who are afraid of compost pits, as they think that they emit a stench that spoils the air throughout the site. In fact, compost does not smell if it is properly laid and the bacteria are kept active. How - let's figure it out in more detail.

So, the first step is to select a convenient place for a compost pit on the site. As a rule, she is assigned an area at the back of the garden, behind farm buildings, where the appearance of a heap of waste will not spoil the overall landscape. The only caveat: look during heavy rains where the water flows. It should not run towards the well (if there is one), otherwise rotting waste products may get there, which will affect the quality and taste of the water.

There are two options for arranging: you can dig a deep hole and put raw materials for compost in it, or knock down a wide box with a removable wall from wooden planks for ease of use.

Pit technology

A deep hole is more convenient because all the plant materials will hide in the ground and will not cut the eyes, but the compost takes longer to cook in it, and it is more difficult to mix it. If, nevertheless, only this option suits you, equip the pit correctly, because oxygen and ventilation are necessary for the normal decomposition of organic matter. And the dense earthen walls and the bottom will not let any air through. Therefore, the pit is dug as follows:

They take out the soil no more than a meter deep, three meters long and one and a half meters wide.
From the walls of the pit they retreat 20 cm on each side and knock down a wooden box, digging in 4 columns in the corners and nailing boards to them.
There is a distance of about 5 cm between the boards to ventilate all layers of compost.
Divide the pit into two equal parts with a wooden board to fill only one half.
The bottom is covered with thick branches of trees, bark, spruce branches and straw (whatever you find). This will drain the excess moisture and help the compost to ventilate from below. The height of the drainage layer is 10-15 cm.

Plant waste is stored in one part of the compost pit, but during the season they are thrown several times from one half to the other in order to saturate the heap with oxygen.

The hole can be made half in the ground, and not completely buried, then it will be easier for you to stir the contents and air access will improve

The second option for laying compost is in a box made of unpainted wood (or factory made of plastic). In appearance, it is absolutely identical to ordinary boxes, only several times larger. When creating a frame, do not forget to leave gaps between the boards and make one side removable, so that it is more convenient to lay and mix the raw materials. Alternatively, you can hang the door.

The plastic composter has perforated doors on each side at the bottom, through which the contents are ventilated, but you will have to humidify the waste yourself

Since such structures are usually made for many years, the floor can be concreted, and drainage can be laid on top (such as in the pit). Some owners put wooden or plastic shields on the bottom. True, over time the tree will fall into disrepair, but after all, nothing is eternal.

Now it remains to fill the prepared place with the right raw materials, which will rot into high-quality compost.

Two compost boxes located next to each other are convenient in that you can transfer waste for ventilation from one to the other, without clogging up the nearby area

Features of the correct laying of waste

In order for your pile to successfully rot and turn into nutrient soil by the new season, only plant waste should be thrown into the compost: leaves, cut grass, remnants of root crops and fruits, turf, weeds, finely chopped branches of trees and shrubs.

Placing waste from your own garden in the compost pit, you thereby solve the problem of removing vegetable waste and get fresh, high-quality soil

To make the composition of the compost even more nutritious, put in it everything that you did not eat yourself: leftover soups, coffee grounds, tea leaves, yesterday's salad, etc. In a word, put another container in the house next to the garbage bin for plant waste, and you will be surprised how quickly it will fill up. Old cardboard boxes, newspapers (black and white), worn-out items made from natural materials (cotton, wool) are suitable for compost.

Unwanted ingredients

And now let's dwell on the harmful, from the point of view of experienced gardeners, waste. It is strictly forbidden to put in the compost the remnants of animal products: dead birds and animals, old bacon, fats, intestines, spoiled milk, sour cream, etc. All this, when decomposed, begins to exude an unpleasant odor and will attract to a heap of harmful insects, neighbor dogs, cats and crows ... In addition, rotting processes in animal remains are slower than in plant ones, and your compost will not have time to mature by the next season.

But the summer residents have not decided on the marine inhabitants. Some do not add them so as not to attract animals to a heap, while others gladly throw into the compost everything that remains when cleaning fish (heads, scales, entrails), motivating this by the fact that they contain phosphorus, valuable for plants. Only it is necessary to bury such waste deeper in a heap so that the cats do not smell the smell.

Indeed, fish feeding is useful. Therefore, we advise everyone who is sorry to throw away a valuable product: do not put them in compost, but bury them right under the trees, in the near-stem circles. Just dig a hole deeper. Thus, you will feed the garden, and will not attract stray animals.

If you knock a compost bin with an opening roof, then feel free to put fish waste inside, because animals will not crawl into such a container

Do not put plastic, glass, metal objects, rubber, water from washing, etc. into the pit. They are harmful to the soil. All paper products with a laminated backing or with colored drawings will not be useful either. Too much paint and chemicals are present in it.

An unwanted ingredient in compost is tomato and potato tops. In the fall, it is all affected by late blight, and the spores of this disease will be transmitted with compost to healthy plants.

Weeds are not put into compost and weeds with the beginning or the end of the flowering period. For example, if a dandelion has managed to form a flower, the seeds will still ripen, even if it is picked and placed in a pile. Therefore, try to mow the weeds before the flower buds appear.

If there is nowhere to put the tops of nightshades and large weeds that have managed to sow, spread them on a solid base (concrete, linoleum) near the compost pit and let dry. Then throw all the vegetation into an iron barrel and set it on fire. Everything will burn, along with diseases and seeds. Useful ash will remain. Add it to your compost heap.

How to compost waste?

In order for waste to decompose quickly, moisture, oxygen and accelerators of putrefactive processes are needed. You provide moisture yourself, watering the pile abundantly during those periods when it is hot outside. Oxygen will penetrate into the compost more actively if you properly decompose the layers of raw materials. So, dry waste (potato peelings, straw, hay, fallen leaves, husks, etc.) should be alternated with green (tops, fresh grass, rotting vegetables and fruits), soft with hard to avoid excessive compaction. It is very important that the compost is prepared from the brown and green components in equal proportions. Fresh waste is the main source of nitrogen for all plants. Brown (i.e. dry) ones act as a layer that prevents the compost from sticking together. They are considered a kind of fiber that makes the soil airier and lighter.

Try to put green and brown waste in equal proportions, as excess greens will cause compaction, and excess dry raw materials will suck nitrogen out of the compost

If you need compost for next spring, add decomposition accelerators to it. These can be concentrates bought in a garden store, which must be diluted with warm water and activate the work of beneficial bacteria contained in the preparation.

Fresh manure (horse or cow) is an excellent accelerator. They find a couple of cakes on the field, bred them in a bucket of water and let them brew for two days. Then the prepared solution is poured into compost and the contents of the heap are mixed. If this good is not near your summer cottage, finely chop the leaves of dandelion, nettle, legumes, pour a bucket of warm water and put in the sun. After day 4, the mixture will begin to ferment. Then pour it into the compost.

To avoid nitrogen weathering, cover the top of the compost heap with non-woven material or black film. When closed, decay is faster, and a sign of this will be an active generation of heat. The temperature inside the compost should be at least 60 degrees.

It is extremely undesirable to cover a wooden box with plastic from bottom to top, because by doing so you will block the path of oxygen, and the quality of the finished compost will be much worse

During the season, the pile is shoveled 3-4 times to ensure uniform decay of all layers. By spring, plant waste will turn into rich, loose soil with a scent of earth, which can be applied under trees, mulched strawberries or mixed with garden soil to improve its composition.