I will not quote statistics because I don’t know them. But I personally observed several fires in the access control panels of buildings with a height of five to nine floors. I will say right away that the spectacle is not for the faint of heart. What are at least old ladies with buckets of water in a hurry to extinguish an electrical installation! And the whistle of molten PVC insulation falling down the riser (probably many in childhood burned plastic bags, listening to drops whistle, and now imagine the height of your growth and the height of a nine-story building, the whistle is creepy and frightening)! Not to mention the consequences - a weekly lack of electricity in the apartment, the smell of burning and the sooty ceiling.
So, let's look at the reasons.
Actually, there is only one reason. It consists, as the classics of Marxism said, in the inconsistency of abilities with needs.
For each house, for each entrance in it and, of course, for each apartment, a strictly defined amount of power consumption is allocated during the supply of utilities. Power (in this case, electrical) is measured in watts. AC power is calculated as follows: Voltage (volts) x Current (amperes) x Cosine fit (in residential buildings, as a rule, it is not taken into account, because there is no three-phase power supply, electric motors and fluorescent lamps, however, I would recommend it take for 0.8-0.9, usually it is taken for 0.7).
Further, if, for example, we wanted to install a hob at home, the total power consumption of which is about 7000 watts, based on the formula we understand that it consumes 220xCurrent power 0.8 \u003d 7000, that is, 7000 is divided by 220 and also divided by 0 ,8. We get about 40 amperes.
And now the fun begins.
There is such a concept - wire cross-section. This is the area that each vein has in cross section, and, in no case, not the diameter. The vein, as a rule, is round, we calculate its area from the school formula Pi Er square, or we multiply 3.14 by the radius of the wire, previously squared (multiplied by itself, if anyone has forgotten, while the radius is half the diameter, and the diameter can be measured with a ruler, but better, of course, with a caliper). But, for the convenience of users who do not have a caliper, the cable marking is applied to its insulation (for example, the marking of the VVG cable (this is the designation of the insulation material) 2x2.5 means that you have a cable in front of you (a cable is several connected insulated conductive cores (wires) , and a cable with two cores (wires), the cross-section of each of which is 2.5 square millimeters.
Each value of the current strength corresponds to a certain cross-section of the wire, and at the same current strength, the copper wire will be of a smaller cross-section than the aluminum one, since these metals have different characteristics of electrical resistance, on which the cross-section depends. Let us mention that the best wires for electrical characteristics are made of platinum and gold.
For each apartment, for example, in a 12-storey panel building built before 1990, without gas, just 7000 watts are allocated. And in Khrushchev - even less (look in your dashboard for what circuit breakers there are). This means that, at that time (and if), your hob is working at full capacity, then in order to "not knock out the plugs" in the apartment you need to turn off all other electrical appliances.
But, with an abundance of electrical household appliances in the house, this is unrealistic. What do the home appliance sellers advise us?
"Put a more powerful machine, you will make copper wiring at home, everything will be fine!"
Yes, nothing will light up in your apartment. But! As we remember, the wires in the entrance are also designed for a certain current strength and, accordingly, power. And if your neighbor below also has a hob, and the neighbor on top, and you simultaneously came home from work and began to cook dinner, what happens - you have a more powerful machine, they do too, but the wires of the access riser are not designed for this power, they begin to heat up, the insulation melts, their bare cores touch, a short circuit occurs, the temperature of which tends (well, almost) to infinity upward (electric welding is, in fact, an adjustable short circuit, and metals are fused to it!). And everything that can burn in the electrical panel (dust, non-certified materials and wires) starts to burn. And everything that cannot burn begins to melt with a terrible whistle. And dinner will have to be eaten dry by candlelight, and, most likely, you will have to invite firefighters to it.
So you should think carefully about calculating energy consumption when arranging an apartment.
Hello, dear readers and guests of the "Notes of an Electrician" website.
In this article, I want to analyze a number of reasons that brought the driveway into disrepair.
If you have the same shield, then after reading the article, I recommend that you immediately check it for such errors and eliminate them before it is too late.
So, three weeks ago I changed the old single-phase induction meter SO-I449 (1986) for an electronic two-tariff SOE-55 (2014). The meter was installed in this driveway.
I described the scheme of such a shield in an article about. In my case, the shield is similar, only it is arranged not for 3 apartments, but for 4.
View from afar.
I will not talk about the replacement of the counter itself, read the following articles on this topic:
The fact is that this driveway is in disrepair. To be honest, while I was working, I myself was scared to be there.
And now in order.
From my own experience, I will say that the input machine will have a rated current of 32 (A) or 40 (A).
Choose a manufacturer of machines according to your financial capabilities: you can install expensive ones from ABB or Schneider Electric, or you can get by with inexpensive brands such as IEK, EKF or TDM.
2. Replacement of group machines
At present, group machines of the AE-1031 type (single-pole) are installed. They are, so to speak, already morally outdated, but that's not even the point. They are not very reliable, when they are loaded (), a large number of them do not pass the test, especially for thermal protection.
3. Get rid of aluminum wires
Currently, aluminum wires with a cross section of up to 16 sq. Mm are prohibited for use in the residential sector (PUE, clause 7.1.34), therefore, installation must be carried out only with copper wires ().
The lead-in wires from the main terminals to the group machines can be made with a PV-1 copper wire 4 sq. Mm or 6 sq. Mm. Others can be used
(Besides ).
4. Replacing the apartment zero block
The old zero block must be replaced with a zero insulated bus for a DIN rail (SHNI), for example, this one.
5. Additionally (optional)
If the first four points are mandatory, then this point is more recommendatory. I suggested the hostess to at least conduct a visual inspection of the electrical wiring of the apartment (general condition, heating, etc.), starting from group automatic machines in the floor panel and ending with sockets, switches, junction boxes. It would also not be bad, which are made of old aluminum wires.
6. Wiring diagram for floor board
Here is a new connection diagram in a floor panel for one apartment - a minimum investment, everything is simple and reliable.
It will turn out something like this.
It is advisable to install an introductory and group RCDs () in the diagram presented above.
P.S. All of the above was explained to the owner of the apartment and her neighbors. Unfortunately, no one called me back. A few days ago, I accidentally passed this shield and did not see any changes there ...
158 comments on the entry “The emergency condition of the driveway. We disassemble and eliminate the reasons "
Until the thunder breaks out, the man does not cross himself. It's too bad that we are so negligent about our own safety. Relatives have a floor board in a similar state, I will show them this post as a guide to action.
Thanks for the article, I think for many it is relevant.
And what then is the cross-section of the main phase wires and the cross-section of the main PEN? And what section should they be?
The proposed zero shank is rubbish. Nifig screws do not hold the wire, they turn out, break the thread when pulling.
Better good old Soviet-type black ones, or modern wagons, on a DIN rail.
thank you for your efforts. We are waiting for new articles
Zhora, here not only "thunder will not strike". Many people believe that the recommendations of builders, installers and other specialists are of the nature of "money for money." Thanks to the cunning "specialists". One lady to whom I was perverted in the selection of lamps and lamps for the winter garden (the aesthetics of lamps, the necessary light wave for photosynthesis and beautiful color rendering, moisture protection, expensive ceiling and other delights), shouted to me that I was trying to replace six chandeliers with one lamp. These were long battles, I finished the object with the fourteenth brigade of foremen. We're best friends now. But when you start talking to a person about safety and savings, you often hear that I'm trying to make money on them. I say that I am not trying, I am earning, but it should be profitable for them.
Controversial article)) And about the shin, and about the single-pole at the input, and about the PV-1, which you will swell to bend in a confined space ...
Monsieur Serge, you can also have a single-pole input machine, you can also have a two-pole one (read the PUE) - what's the problem? And I wrote about the shank as an example. You can use any bar, even a regular bolted copper bar. The flexibility in the shield is not required, so I chose the PV-1. You can choose stranded PV-3 (according to modern PGV), naturally, using ferrules. Below in the text of the article, I indicated a link to the table for the selection of cables and wires, where the recommended brands are indicated.
Unfortunately, in the vast majority of houses built before 2000, you can easily find shields in a similar condition. When you have to do something in such a shield, you work like a sapper in a minefield. At the expense of the use of a shank - I usually, if possible, clamp more than one core under the screw, but bend the core in half, then the wire does not rotate under the screw and the contact is reliable.
This is something else ... My friend went to change the meter for the customer and when he opened the door of the floor board, the board literally began to fall out of a special niche in the wall. An acquaintance began to hold him so that he would not fall out completely, while awaiting with horror that he would now "slam". Then he took out a mobile phone with one hand and began to call the management company (the electrician from the UK was familiar to him, so he had the phone number). And after 20 minutes. electricians arrived and secured the shield. And the acquaintance kept him all this time. That's it.
I have gas stoves in my house, the allocated power for the apartment is 3 kW. The introductory machine will be forced to put on 25 A, because the bag usually costs 25 A. Only nobody cares about such shields. Here are the people with us (when replacing the wiring in the apartment) and put input machines and 40 A each at 16 sq. mm. aluminum phase wire. And they do not think that they can be phase neighbors in 3-4 apartments. Moreover, grounding is done in such shields. Does the overhaul of the house include the replacement of phase conductors with copper when entering the house and through risers, as well as the installation of new circuit breakers and TN-C-S grounding systems in such panels? At the same time, the allocated capacity for apartments will remain the same (after all, it is unlikely that the lead-in cable will be extended to the entrance of a larger section)? Has anyone come across a major replacement of wiring in old houses and can give me his own answer to my questions? Thank you in advance.
For a long time I wanted to write here ... I wanted to catch the author on something ..- it doesn't work out, everything is correct. those situations that you face at work and cannot find an explanation in theory
Yes, Dmitry, you have a shield on your photo. Although you will not envy you. I had to dig in such shields (just to dig and nothing else) that you compare your profession with the profession of a miner. One is not the right movement and ... ... ... ... ...! As a micro-surgeon with a scalpel, so are you with your instrument in that shield. Already breaks into sweat. In one, I remember, for a hundred years, probably, no one looked. Cobwebs, dried flies and cockroaches, which do not care, are running around figs. you will catch it.
And about the cross section of the wires. And absurdities are encountered in newly built houses. The lead-in into the dashboard is PV-1 of 6 sq. Mm, the jumpers between the machines are with the same wire, and the outlet to the VVG electric plate is 3x10 sq. Mm.
Alexander totally agree this shield is still a fairy tale
Let's share the best creations of housing and communal services fitters)))))))))
And how did you not get shocked there?
We also had shields in a deplorable state, since in December 2010 all the electrics were completely changed there.
House type II-68-01, year of construction ~ 1975th, 16 floors, 1 entrance.
I also think that the flap in the photo is very much even nothing. In our entire city, almost all shields are much, much worse, sometimes you just don't want to climb (electricians from housing and communal services know). You go to change the meter like a war - just right to read a prayer. However, what to do? Money is not allocated, because they allegedly do not exist. Even insidious baggers do not want to replace them with cheap machines. I here suggested that at least the zeros from the bags should be discarded so as not to explode. The tenants, as a rule, are not going to change the machines after the counters either - they hang like that for forty years, they don't even always turn off, what kind of protection is there. In this regard, I tell the tenants: well, you don’t forget to change the toilet, why not think about safety - who agrees and who sends.
In general, it is necessary to sort out the shields and change the risers, since the load wires cannot withstand. In the ASU, beetles hang on half of the fuses, so now they constantly knock out the machines that the power supply company hung next to the general house meters. And another attack: the heating season is over, the hot water was turned off - water heaters were being bought up in stores. We are holding on for now, but I feel it will start soon.
"And let's share the best creations of housing and communal services installers))))))))) - Yuri, basically the creations in the shields belong to the tenants themselves - they have twisted so many twists and wires with their pliers for many years, which sometimes, while everything is fucking you don't bite, and you won't figure it out (((((((
To comment from 05/01/2014 at 22:15
Oleg, our house has been capitalized, it seems that he is 45 years old, completely new copper cables have been stretched, both along the risers and from the ASU through the basement to all the entrances, replaced the bags with introductory two-pole machines (IEC) for 32A, replaced the internal wiring. I don't remember the exact cross-section of the standing cable, but that everything is in mind - it's a fact. Branching on the risers is done through piercing clamps - beauty! But, bypassing the requirements of the PUE, they left the four-wire system (TN-C). I was interested: why? They say that a lot of money has already been spent. True, such a major electrical repair became possible only thanks to the senior in the house - all the city authorities are afraid of her. Now, if you tell her about TN-C-S and that they had to do it, then, I am sure, she will get the fifth wire to be thrown to her and grounding into the lawn. It is a pity, but there are few such necessary people in the country.
Hello. In principle, everything is correct and clear. One question. How will the controllers from the power supply organization react to the appearance of a switching device (machine) with open contacts to the counter? Maybe the common lead-in AB needs to be put into the box and sealed?
Thank you for the article.
However, the question is: why multiply avtics in the dashboard? Why not put RCBO instead of AV + RCD? If the screw clamps from this brass-powder stuff are bad, then throw off the link to the good ones.
"So that the selectivity of its operation in relation to the input protection devices installed in the VRU-0.4 (kV) is observed."
And if you put yourself an introductory machine in the dashboard by 6 mm in copper (replaced from the main to AB), say by 40A or 8 mm and 50A? In general, if these currents are not coordinated with the energy supplying organization, what is the threat to the tenant?
Threatens with a fine for any check or "God forbid" an emergency situation, and the blame can be completely laid on you - I have come across such a case in practice, but I will not talk about it now - a long story, just know that the face value of the introductory machine sets you power supply organization, depending on the allocated power to the house, the cross-section of the main wires and the ratings of the protection devices in the ASU of the house.
Dmitry! And if you take pictures of such "beautiful" shields, where should you send them?
Email me.
I work in the emergency gang, I think I'll get a used soap box to capture the masterpieces. By the way, where can I look at the mail? Where can I send masterpieces?
Hello! With a copper wire VVG 6 squares to the main one (STAND in the shield) make piercing clamps of the self-supporting insulated wire. I would like to hear YOUR opinion. THX.
I came home late from work. I went into the entrance, on the first floor the lighting did not work as usual, and besides, the elevator was somewhere on the upper floors with open doors, so I had to stand in silence for a while. And in this silence I heard a "hiss", I didn't have to look for a long time, the "hiss" came from the driveway, looked inside, and it is true, there was a "small welding machine" working there. He knocked on the first door that came across, the hostess came out, I briefly told her about what I saw, outlined the consequences and went to my floor. But this sparkling haunted me, and I decided to report. First thought at 12 o'clock at night - Where to call? What is the phone number? And I couldn't find anything better how to call 911, told everything as it is, how it could be, after the service operator began to offer me to call there or there. After that, I lost the desire to do anything further.
The fire did not happen, but the problem was not eliminated either. After some time, apparently according to the program, electricians came and changed the metering devices and, at the same time, the wiring. So far, everything is new.
This is how everything is done in Russia, if you want to help - take a pliers screwdriver and go fix it yourself, or wait for a fire.
Do not take the pliers and fix it yourself (otherwise you can get money), but find out the emergency number and call there.As a rule, on the 1st floor in the entrances, such information should be, well, or in the telephone directory.
Hello, yesterday I assembled a shield for the bathhouse, I almost did everything, as you said, but the store did not have a single-core cable of the desired color, it was blue and green, I bought a 3-core 6 mm cable. It was very difficult to separate it, of course, because it was a guest, the blue cable turned out to be more free, I made a phase jumper on the machines.
For the bath I took input machines for 25 A, RCDs for 40 A 30 mA, 10 A for light, 2 16 for sockets and one stock. The company of automatic machines and UZO Lengrand. I can send a photo for soap. Did I do everything right, except for the color of course.
Sergey, in order to answer you on the choice of protection devices, you need to know the cross-sections of outgoing lines for lighting and sockets. You can send a photo of the shield to me by mail.
Yuri: Please share the best creations of electricians from housing and communal services, and then, as a master of housing and communal services electricians, I will give you the opportunity to calculate how much they work.
Oleg: With capital, everything changes from the LIE itself (panel room) and up to the machines for the apartment. We usually pull PV3 * 25, these are risers from the ASU to the upper floor without a break, if the entrance is far from the ASU, then PV3 * 35 in 9-storey buildings. In 5-storey buildings there is PV3 * 16, as a rule, well, or 3 * 25 if it is far from VRUshka. The only thing that residents are forced to buy is meters.
Sergei, during major overhauls, we replaced the ASP-0.4 (kV) including. In short, the project for a 5-storey Khrushchev was as follows. For each entrance from the ASU, we extended the main line (risers) with aluminum APV (5x16), then in each apartment we installed an introductory automatic machine C32, after it an electric meter (you correctly noted that the consumers themselves purchased new meters) and 2 groups of C16. I plan to write everything about this with more detailed explanations and nuances, but so far there is no free time.
We are only laying copper at the capital. Although lum 16 square is also possible.
Sergey, or anyone in the subject, tell me, but who determines the need to replace the cable from the TP to the ASU at home. loads have increased in recent years. During the overhaul, everything in the risers will be replaced, and will the armored cables withstand the ones that are on the ground. Is this taken into account in government agencies that make up projects for capital repairs of houses?
Then the TP also needs to be modernized.
No, it doesn't count. A certain power is always allocated to the house and it is limited by the input protection devices. Most often these are fuses, less often circuit breakers. In general, this is the zone of balance delimitation of power grids in our country, at least.
Admin: I have a little piece of advice for you, a colleague. We put two zero busbars on one insulator. We connect them together with a piece of wire, so a large contact area is obtained and the wire is clamped under two screws. More reliable, especially considering that the wiring is from lum.
And tell me why, instead of the "packet", the VA is installed, and not the VN?
VNka's price will be more than that of VA. And I do not know where how, but in our city VN this is a custom position. Most likely for these reasons. And the meter also needs to be protected.
I cannot agree with the HV load-break switch, a switching device without a protection function, in other words, the same switch in a modular design, from the point of view of protection, AB is more reliable.
Dmitry, you wanted to write an article about RCDs in the TN-C system ...
I may not have found. Prohibited by the rules, of course ... but
Where do you connect the ground wire from the washer in the dashboard, or anywhere like in your diagram above for sockets and lighting?
Nikolay, put a difavtomat instead of the RCD, and do not connect the grounding in the shield anywhere yet, although if you basically look at how your bath is grounded, it can be easier to throw PE to it
Nikolay, if your residential building is not transferred to the TN-C-S system, then you do not have a separate main grounding conductor, it is combined with a working zero and is called PEN. What to do in such a situation and where to connect the PE conductor from the washing machine - read in.
... that's just in time)))
a washing machine was also connected to a neighbor on the site ...
I went then looked - the phase through the machine, zero to the apartment zero tire, and the third to the housing of the floor shield under the nut.
Crime?
Nikolay, is the trunk 4-wire or 5-wire?
Nikolay. There is no crime here. There is simply a danger that in the event of a break in the neutral wire, if it is PEN, a non-weak potential will come to the instrument cases. For this reason, I usually do not connect the ground wire (if there are no 5 wiring in the house) but leave it insulated until reconstruction, and protect the line diff. protection. Believe the experience of the ZhEKovsky electrician, a zero break is a very big reality.
If Zhekovsky electrician Sergey has the nickname junta then greetings from Andrey Ingener
Andrey Ingener greetings from the junta (Sergey Panagushin)
Dmitry, I don't know which highway ..
the house is 40 years old. The system is most likely TN-C.
Apparently 3 phases and neutral - 4-wire.
I started my washing machine through an RCD with a 10 mA leak.
the third wire is "hanging".
Sergey, are you talking about a break in the common neutral in the floor panel?
I'm not a pro)) but I went to school))
can it really burn out? Well this is how to overload ...
and then what are the entrance vending machines for?
or group machines in apartments ...
Nikolay, there is no crime here. They just zeros the car body. According to the current rules, it is forbidden to neutralize the enclosures of electrical equipment - now you need to ground it. If you have a TN-C riser, then do not connect the PE conductor until the reconstruction. Read how to correctly transfer a residential building from the TN-C system to the TN-C-S (explained everything in detail).
Zero break - easy! There are many reasons for this: untimely or complete lack of technical maintenance (most often weakening of contact connections), electricians' mistakes (breakage of the neutral main wire when performing any repair or installation work), initially incorrect installation (it is necessary that the main zero goes to the last floor is not discontinuous, and the branches on the floors were performed using special blocks, as in the example in the article), uneven load in phases, etc.
Therefore, a zero break is not at all a myth, but a completely harsh reality - for protection I recommend single-phase relays UZM-51M or.
Thank. And another question))
I want to put a 2-pole automatic machine instead of a bag in the dashboard.
What's the difference between 2P and 1P + N?
... and which is better to put in your opinion?
Sometimes manufacturers indicate marking and some do not
Nikolay, it is better to install a 2P two-pole circuit breaker with protection in both poles. For a two-pole 1P + N circuit breaker, protection is performed only on the phase. In principle, you can install any, because the current in both conductors will be the same, but 2P is more reliable in terms of the fact that suddenly, for some reason, protection in one pole will not work.
We changed the counters in a village in the north of Moscow. At the same time, the input was changed from the pillar to the wall from the old aluminum to the vulture.
There are four apartment houses. Each apartment has its own drawer in which machines and meters are installed.
And now a treat - all these boxes were made of wood!
It is not known how the entire village has not yet been burned down.
Considering that sparks rained down in several apartments when trying to open the cabinet door ...
Hello Dmitry, I did not know where to write, I am writing on a topic similar to the topic.
Several questions torment me, I will try to describe the problem in detail.
There is a cable, copper 4 / 2.5 mm, three phases and zero.
You need to connect two single-phase heater guns, each 3300 watts.
Question N1: -
Is it possible to connect one gun to phase A and zero, the second gun to phase B and zero with a wire cross-section of 2.5mm2?
Phase C will have several luminaires with a total power of ~ 200 watts;
Question N2: -
What approximately the current will be in the neutral wire when the guns are turned on on two phases (will it not burn out?, Because as I understand it, the phase imbalance is not small)
Question N3: -
I beg you to explain in your own words how you can approximately calculate the current in the neutral wire of a three-phase network, for example, when you turn on only one 3300 watt gun, or two guns in different phases of 3300 watts each.
I understand a lot, but I can't catch up with the phase imbalance and the current in the neutral wire.
Andrey, as I understand it, you shouldn't take a steam bath on this problem. The current in the neutral wire will not be more current in any one of the phases, because everything is balanced there. Only under certain conditions can it go beyond the permissible-powerful UPS, different rc-lc load But this rarely happens in everyday life.
The neutral wire is needed to balance the voltages in phases, to create 220 volts and as a protective conductor.
In kraynyak, you can put a 4-pole automatic machine and divide n by pe before it.
Edward, thanks for the answer.
I understood about zero.
And there is such an observation about balancing the voltage between the phases.
I live in a village. The house was recorded in three phases, but the voltage on the lines with the arrival of winter skewed: 196v / 210v / 230v.
Although I spread the entire load in the house evenly across all three phases.
I don't know how to understand it.
Suppose one of the neighbors has loaded one line, for example, electric heaters. But why then the neutral wire did not balance the voltage remains unclear ...
Edward, good evening.
1. You can.
2. The current in the neutral wire in a three-phase four-wire system is equal to the vector sum of the currents of all phases. Once again, I focus on the expression "vector sum". For example, you have a symmetrical load (currents in all phases are the same). In this case, the current in the neutral wire will be zero or close to zero. If the load on the phases is different, then a current appears in the neutral wire, but its value does not exceed the value of the current in the maximum loaded phase.
3. It is easier to measure than to calculate, because for an accurate calculation, data are needed not only for the power of consumers, but also for all values \u200b\u200bof currents, line and phase voltages, shift angles between the current and voltage of each phase, etc. I recommend reading the textbook on TOE, there these moments are described in great detail with examples and calculations.
Dmitry, thank you for your answer and understanding, what I wrote off topic.
All the best to you.
Hello! And why and why is the nominal current OUZO greater than the machine that protects it, and not a turn?
Sorry. But alas, there are thousands of such shields. And the workers of the housing office, or rather their owners, have basically one intent and it is in a crispy equivalent. At work, such shields often come to me on mobile residential wagons. I repack them in a better way. A neat and aesthetically pleasing layout is like styling in an operating room.
Hello dear Admin! First of all, I want to thank you for such an informative site.
I got a little problem, in my 4-square-meter entrance shield:
1. Not one apartment is worth an introductory machine.
2. Directly on my square. After the counter there are three machines, two workers
One, as I understand it, is a backup, from them two wires go into the apartment from the entrance shield
Phase zero, phase zero. And it turns out that all the apartment wiring is twisted to these two wires in one box! Although I am a non-master of electrical engineering, for some reason it scares me!
3. I am thinking of removing the automatic machines from the entrance panel, and installing an apartment panel for 4 modules (automatic machines) in the apartment for each room with its own automatic machine.
Please tell me how best to do this ???
Is it possible to leave the old machines in the entrance shield and after them put 4 machines in the square ????
Or you have to remove the seal from the meter through energy sales and start from the load terminals
New cable (phase zero) for the apartment panel ??
Thanks for the comment, only I don't need to change the counter, the previous owners of it
They replaced it with a new one, but apparently the installation was carried out, as I understand it, by a not very grateful electrical fitter. The only problem now is that the meter is sealed and in order for me to lay a new introductory cable in the HF from it I need to break the seal.
Tell me which authority you need to contact with this question?
I don't need to do this on my own, as I understand it.
To remove the seal, you need to contact the energy sales company. On payment for email energy is their phones. The introductory machine must be delivered to you by the Criminal Code for free, this is their area of \u200b\u200bresponsibility. But it is better when they come to buy a machine on their own and "negotiate" with an electrician to supply you with your machine with a rating of 40A. The standard one is unlikely to exceed 25A and it is better to put a two-pole machine, I would even say a two-pole one. And then there are cases you know
The smoker's shield is shorter.
But offhand it looks like nothing at first glance.
Good article! Listen to the article, change wires and machines in such a shield - this is your safety. A case from my life: I did not look into my same shield (although I knew the deplorable state of affairs - the same as at the beginning of the article one to one). Here I change the outlet once - I short-circuited it by accident (sparks, heat wave and scorched protective SPECIAL gloves) - and even if the machine is henna - that it is, that it is not))))
After that he called - changed. By the way, they helped to save money (they installed an RCD + an automatic machine instead of the difavtomat that I asked for at the beginning) - it turned out cheaper for ABB.
Thanks to the author.
Hello. Please tell me that. Here in the pictures you connected to the phase wires in the dashboard with "breadcrumbs", and there are still options and so to connect under voltage, wearing rubber gloves, I thought to use the OP-6 clamp, but one jamb on the 9th floor and the phase wires dangle in the air, if screwed on can bend and the doors of the shield theoretically hook. Here is another example of what kind of thread are insulated clamps but light, so as not to "crack", then with them under tension hemorrhoid screw
Such a state in the inter-storey buildings - a proprietary dowry from the USSR - was blinded as and from what came to the tenants and this is a joy. The situation in my house is worse, because Lysva's stationary plates melted themselves, and the wires / contacts melted. And my branch, perhaps, was the only one where there was no carbonization of the insulation, because from the very beginning everything was compressed, and with steals, and with sleeves. And the sockets, nevertheless, certainly suffered - not only was the lumen, and even old and uncontested at the beginning of the outlet. The outlet with sockets was simple - a normal plug with a normal cable was plugged into it once, everything else went only through extension cords for a different number of places, but already of the Euro-type.
Michael:
08/10/2015 at 02:28
Why is OR-6 not suitable for you? They can be safely connected under voltage without any gloves.
Good evening. With bumped with similar shields, asked to do a bypass and prevention. I was wildly surprised by the state of many shields. It was Akhtung)) decided with the chairman of the HOA to fix the emergency and gradually redo everything. In your upgraded dashboard, I see terminals isolated on a DIN rail (above in the photo), I can't understand how they are connected there, because four wires should sit on the same bus, but under different bolts, as it was originally, or am I thinking something wrong, tell me?
Sergei, before reworking the circuit, zero for each apartment went through a packet switch to the meter. Naturally, the "bag" was dismantled during the modernization process, and a two-pole automatic machine was installed in its place. Thus, the zero for each apartment is taken by a separate wire from the main zero and goes first to the two-pole machine, and from it to the meter. From the counter, zero goes to the zero bus N. There are three of them in the shield, i.e. each apartment has its own zero bus (in no case should they be connected to each other). Even in the upper right corner you can see the terminals - they were installed due to the short wires going to the apartments, the length of the apartment wires was simply not enough and it was necessary to install additional power terminals, both for phase and zero. If the wires have a sufficient supply, then it is advisable to connect them directly to group machines and zero buses.
You were misled by the fact that the presented photograph and the diagram in the article are somewhat different. The diagram shows two group vending machines per apartment, but in the photo there is only one. There may be two or three of them. This does not change the essence of the scheme.
Recently I saw sparking with a glow effect in the ASU on the first floor of my house (the house itself is 16-storey). The glow is located behind one of the current transformers (they are most likely for meters), they happen when the elevators start moving, but nothing special.)) It started the other day, I even made a video on this topic.
Isn't it already there that zero is slowly burning out (although it is unlikely)?
MotoBiker1995, where exactly does it spark? At the junction of the current transformer and the case? Can you send me a video - interesting to watch?
Tell me, what can be replaced or is it still possible to find an old insulated zero bus? It's just that in the dashboard there is a need to replace only and, but there is no place at all. One bus goes to two apartments, the second to two more. One wire comes to the bus from the meter and three from the apartment (respectively, two wires for one clamp), according to the PUE it is so spelled out. Here's how to solve this problem, power terminal blocks seem to be not an option? Thanks in advance. The photo of the shields was sent to you by e-mail ( [email protected])
Well, right there is my dashboard in the photo. For 20 years of life in my apartment I replaced all the internal strapping from aluminum to copper, a packet switch, automatic machines for 2 circles. The machines burned out the bottom contacts due to poor contact in the jumpers made of wire. The problem was solved. installation of a w-shaped jumper made of brass. Well, on the eve of NG, the local UK brought a notice to replace the meter. I changed it with my own hands. After reading this article, I thought about replacing the machines with modern ones.
Why exactly yours, sho for proprietary assaults !!! ??? Such shields in the EksSSSR are milen and a wheelbarrow.
Once they called me to check why the machines in such a shield knock out by themselves, I came, I was horrified, I decided to measure the voltage surges, then the probes on the tester evaporated! Dangerous business these shields, all on snot, for often no protection and directly, everything was redone. Be careful!
From WHAT did the probes evaporate, from measuring the voltage with a tester?
From the fact that the phase goes to the machines and zero to the frame of which they are screwed.
And what, from this, an arc arose and the probes evaporated? Do not frighten me at least, otherwise the people will be afraid to measure the voltage.
As I say, be careful!
... I banged my head against the wall for a long time ... In general, I avoided answering ... (c)
In the floor panels, the probes and the screwdrivers often evaporate. In old electrical panels, extreme caution is needed, nothing can be relied on, not on machines, not on insulation, even on the shield with a self-tapping screw, not zero is connected, but a phase! And immediately inspect the main wires, recently a screw protruded from the "nut" of such a wire at a distance of 3 mm from the floor zero, one awkward movement and I scared 2 apartments with fireworks.
Tell us in detail how the probe evaporates when measuring voltage! The people have the right to know the truth. Everything!
“MotoBiker1995, where exactly does it spark? At the junction of the current transformer and the case? Can you send me a video - interesting to watch? "
I haven't looked here for a long time, but I will answer: the connection with the transformer sparked, everything was repaired there. I will send the video later as I find it.
Transformers are for meters.
“Tell us in detail how the probe evaporates when measuring voltage! The people have the right to know the truth. Everything! "
Yes, you are an atheist dad ...))) Walk with an electrician, you may see the moment when the test leads and screwdrivers evaporate in the old shields.
If you didn’t see, hear, or feel something, it doesn’t mean that it’s supposedly “no” ...
This is not an answer. Why would I go with an electrician? You wrote it yourself, and explain it yourself, if you don't know, don't torture the keyboard. Extreme cases - a drunk electrician, a blind electrician, an illiterate electrician, bad and twisted probe wires should not be disclosed, they write on another site.
Once again, a normal voltmeter, any, in normal hands with a normal head from above does not spark, short, does not create sparks and does not swear at the same time.
The most interesting thing in such a shield will begin when the contact of the terminal holding the phase weakens and starts to warm up. And on top of it lies another phase wire.
No less interesting will be in a similar situation with zeros on one pint, but with power supply of two apartments from different phases.
What can happen in this case?
I am going to redo the wiring in the apartment of an old panel house from aluminum to copper. But the lead to my meter from the entrance will still be aluminum. How can I replace this wire too? How to formulate a request to the board of the housing cooperative, which is responsible for the electrical wiring? Can I hire an electrician myself to replace this cable? Or can it be done only by an electrician with whom the Housing Construction Company cooperates?
Julia, this wire is part of the riser and will be replaced during the overhaul of the electrical wiring in the house.
Julia, nevertheless, you can do it yourself, or rather with the help of a hired electrician. In ZhSK, explain that you want to replace the supply wires from the main line to the meter, and that at a certain date and time you will need to disconnect the voltage from this riser.
Good day! Yes, colleagues opening the floor board of the old house, at least to some extent, are already preparing mentally. But when you open the floor board of a five-year house, this is of course nonsense. It seems that the diagram is glued on, but when you turn off the machines, you realize that it is here to divert your eyes. And most importantly, the cross-section of the wires is in no way designed for the rated load. Even in the project, the wire section is already insufficient. To whom you do not turn shrug.
I ran into trouble over the weekend. The light went out in the apartment.
I called the electrician from the UK and it turned out that the phase wire at the input to the meter
was poorly tightened. Of course, he pulled everything up, but hinted that everything needs to be changed.
House of 90 years of release, all on aluminum, 4 wires. There is no protective ground.
Only in kitchens, a 3-core wire is connected to one outlet.
And then, this socket, or rather the place for it with wires, was found under a layer of mastic during repairs. On the shield, it was also not connected.
The wires were simply laid in the backboard. As a result, they connected a washing machine there.
But that's not the point. After the advice of an electrician, I started looking for information on how to do it correctly. And ended up here on this great site with this great article.
Everything seems clear, but I would like to clarify some points.
- in the PEN article, the wire is connected through the machine and the meter to a zero insulated bus under a DIN rail. I now have a tap from the interfloor PEN wire rigidly screwed to the shield body.
How to be? After all, this shield serves two apartments.
Julia Vladimir Admin (Dmitry? As far as I have learned) tomorrow I will try to take a photo and throw in what the electricians of the housing cooperative or the management company should do. Pavel judging by the picture you have there is not something that the horse was not lying around ... And he wiped himself with insulating tape))) I have not seen such metal corrosion for a long time. And the shield must be grounded (during the construction of houses in the USSR, a 6 mm steel wire is usually welded) and zeroed again. And the land stretched from the TP. So it's up to you to decide how your apartment will be wired. Those. zero and earth will always be separate or united. Only in the shield it is necessary to display wires of the corresponding color, so that there is no doubt, well, they must be connected in accordance. And in this "noodle" it is difficult to understand who is hu. In email the stove (in the socket) can easily change places zero and the protective for (zero, ground) in apartments in floor boards is all connected.
depressing another. what kind of communication system you can't take from us - everywhere is a mess of wires, clumsy twists, etc. cracked boxes with open lids, etc. ... the conclusion is a very low service culture all over the place. as a result, when a specialist like the author of the article proposes to put things in order, he is perceived as a “money extortionist”. sadly
yes it is not necessary to particularly formulate. the supply to the meter most likely comes from a traffic jam or a vending machine to your apartment. there is a small section of the cable. as a last resort, you can refer, as indicated in the article, that it is forbidden to supply an aluminum core less than 16 squares to living quarters. the only thing is that such work must be carried out by an authorized electrician, since he must seal your meter after replacing the wire and, accordingly, must have the right to do so
i want to add to the previous comment that if you are replacing the wiring from the shield to the meter, it is worth installing an introductory machine in front of the meters
According to PUE in PEN com. The device cannot be installed, but do you suggest?
Hello to the author and residents of this wonderful blog!
I ask you to help me. It's time to replace the meter in the floor board. I am attaching a photo. The bag burned out and everything was connected directly, even before I moved into this house, and this was 13 years ago. The zero tires fell apart. The neighbors put a c63 submachine gun in the odnushka, two enter the kopeck piece !!! input cables. C40 is on a three-ruble note on a phase wire ... It is dreary all the time.
In the UK, a power engineer, a young boy, cannot even tell me the allocated power ... I forgot to say, we have an electric stove and three AB 32 + 16 + 16 Stove, light, sockets.
The wiring in the apartment has not changed yet, luminous from birth, help with the action plan. As I understand it, you need to make two taps, phase-zero, and ??? Automatic or diff? Which counter is better to buy? Further, with the automatic machines, should we keep the same, or reduce it, due to the old age of the luminaire? I will not do it myself, but I want to know the steps for the repair. There are no intelligent specialists in the housing office, I tried to communicate when replacing lamps in the corridor ...
Something like that…
Here's another schematic diagram
The whole floor is in one phase, is this normal?
It's not normal, really. And even more abnormal is the heap of wires in the shield, a nightmarish creepiness.
Surfactants with you and do not argue ...
Something with the time in the blog, the number matches, but the hours and minutes, no ...
Roman, who's arguing? So, light chatter on topics close to electrics, and nothing more. Yeah ???
Surfactants, not really, I'm waiting for Dmitry to give good advice on eliminating this indecency)))
You are waiting for Dmitry to give you all the points of the PUE and so on. standards? There is only one advice - turn off the risers, cut off all the get and make new wires, competently and beautifully.
In general, the surfactant is right, I would have done so if the neighbors on the site supported such an idea. And then often the opinion converges in the phrase "it works, why go there and change something." The simplest option, instead of, as they have recently been called, "exploding" packers, suggests itself either an introductory machine or a load breaker. I am for the first option.
If the UK cannot tell you the allocated power for the apartment, then the choice of the denomination is yours. A single-pole 50 (A) circuit breaker will be enough. Cross-section from the main to the machine and from the machine to the meter and outgoing machines, use a copper wire with a cross-section of 16 sq. Mm. Then install three machines on the DIN rail. We will consider the installation of RCDs or difavtomats, as well as some kind of automation (voltage relay, digital voltmeter, etc.) later, because the main thing is to correctly choose the ratings of the machines for all lines, and for this you need to accurately determine the section of the outgoing lines to the apartment ...
Zero. There are several circuit options here, depending on the devices selected. We'll discuss it later. By counter, direct connection with rated current 0-60 (A) or 0-80 (A). The number of tariffs is optional, but two-tariff will probably be more profitable. Manufacturer - Mercury or Energomera, but this is not important.
In principle, the fact that the entire floor "hangs" on one phase is not so scary, although the diagram shows power supply from different phases. Apparently, when the installation was done, the distribution of loads was taken not by apartment, but by floor. The main thing is that all three phase mains pass through your floor, which means that in case of congestion of any phase, you can always reconnect to a less loaded phase.
Dmitry, thank you for not leaving me alone with my problem.
On the distribution of phases and the choice of the meter, I understood everything, it is not fundamental.
About a wire with a cross section of 16 squares, is this probably a typo? Probably talking about 6k?
I didn't understand about a single-pole machine at the input ... Why not a two-pole one?
And what characteristic (A / B / C / D) should he have?
Protection relay, should you install it before the meter?
On the cross-section of outgoing lines to the apartment: light-2, sockets-2.5, plate-6 (all lumin).
By the way, in the initial message I wrote that I have three machines 32-16-16, I was mistaken, 40-16-16 will be correct.
There is also such a question, in view of the impossibility of carrying out repairs in the apartment at the moment, is it possible to be powered from the stove. If so, what is needed for this, to create a mini shield in the kitchen?
And immediately the question about grounding, you always indicate that it is impossible to ground to the shield, but if I do not confuse (three wires come to the stove), the stove is exactly grounded to the shield.
I wanted to power a washing machine, a microwave oven and a kettle from the stove.
If in turn, it is possible, if all at once, it will be a bit too much. As for the earth, a similar picture is in my house / apartment - for the stove, the earth is taken from the shield, but this wire is non-disconnectable, in contrast to the zeros, which are turned off by the pre-accounting VN.
From the same dashboard and to the SM I took a conditional land, also non-disconnectable.
There is no difference whether the "ground" is disconnected or not, the fact remains that you have a TN-C grounding system and, in fact, this is not grounding, but grounding, the disadvantages of which I talked about in the article about. Unless there is a separate PE bar on the floors! This can be easily verified by carefully examining the floor boards and the ASU at home.
About the machine 50 (A) and the cross section of 16 sq. Mm is not a typo. For clarity, I attach a table (see below).
Single-pole machine because the system is TN-C, which means that it is not recommended to break the combined N and PE for safety reasons (prohibited by the Rules). Unless it is again confirmed that there is no separate PE bar going through the floors!
According to the machines, C can be installed at the input, at the outgoing B, but again, ideally, it is necessary to know the short-circuit currents,. Because it is possible, in terms of selectivity, the option with characteristic C for all machines will pass.
Install the voltage relay after the meter, otherwise you may not sign the certificate of commissioning of the meter. Here.
I am not considering the issue of power supply from the electric line yet, here it is still necessary to deal with the above.
Dmitry, hello surfactant. I will be happy to continue our conversation.
On the cross-section, I attach a photo, I have a suspicion that the site cuts the quality of the photo, but in my opinion it is even so clear that the wire on the left is thinner. When measuring, I used not only my own wires, but also those of my neighbors. There is no mistake. One diameter 1.6, two for 1.8, and 2.8. There is no micrometer, but a vernier caliper with an error of 0.05, shows no problem on one of the water wires 1.6.
Forgot to attach a photo.
About the automaton and the section of 16 squares, I understand. About the relay after the counter, I understand.
About the phase-zero loop, from 8 to 10 they ask. I cannot overpower such expenses now, I am a mortgagee.
Can you get by with the empirical method for now?
The bathroom was welded to some corner, sticking out of the wall. Maybe earth?
Roman, your diagram is small and difficult to read, but on the Admin diagram at the beginning of the topic, you can clearly see that both phase and zero are torn by two-pole VN, for example, 06/21 and 03/23, are simply not normally designated as a single product.
Your PC may well sit on the fittings of the house, or on a bus running along the entire riser, and there is probably earth there. And this is already enough for security, so they thought then. How much the land has been preserved, it is necessary to check, but it is unlikely that it will be different.
As for the section, there was aluminum and 2.0, and 2.5 mm in the early days, 2.0 was pulled for lighting, 2.5- sockets, I met such things.
Roman, what kind of office is this that asks for 8-10 thousand for measuring the phase-zero loop ?! At this rate, I would have been a millionaire for a long time. There, in fact, you need to make 3-4 measurements at the farthest points, a maximum of about 1000 rubles will turn out.
By machines. You have submachine guns with denominations of 40-16-16 installed in your shield. Taking into account the cross-sections of aluminum wires (6-2.5-2 sq. Mm) and the conditional tripping currents of the machines, it is necessary to set the ratings 25-16-10 (A).
So, for today we have at the input machine 50 (A) and outgoing machines 25, 16 and 10 (A). Well, if it is impossible to measure the PFO, then I would set the characteristic C at the input, and B. on the outgoing ones. I will explain. Without knowing the short-circuit currents, it is difficult to make a choice according to the characteristics, but given the old lines, aluminum wires and the existing state of electrical equipment, it is better to insure yourself and install outgoing machines with characteristic B, because short-circuit currents in your case may be small.
Next, you need to resolve the issue with RCDs or difavtomats. I would do as follows. On the sockets, your RCD 25 (A), 30 (mA), and on the stove and lighting your RCD 63 (A), 30 (mA). Alternatively, instead of automatic machines, you can install difavtomats on each line, this is at your discretion. Then their settings for rated current will be 25, 16 and 10 (A), and leakage currents 30 (mA).
On grounding, or rather, zeroing. Nothing can be changed here until there is a reconstruction in the house, so we leave everything as it is. I talked about this in more detail in my article about.
Automation. Decide for yourself, but at least there should be a voltage relay in the board!
Questions ?!
Dmitry, there are a lot of questions)))
In the office, these are the laboratories that I googled on the network, they either take in volumes, or at a minimum for leaving. If you tell me who in Moscow for a thousand, I will be glad.
Do you need a general fire protection RCD in the shield?
I will repeat about the kitchen, I wanted to build a mini-shield for connecting the stove. There is a washing machine, a microwave oven with a kettle and a TV on one block of outlets.
I would like to unload all this evenly.
By automatics. You wrote that the minimum is the presence of a voltage relay ...
What else should be?
Roman, I won't tell you about Moscow laboratories. A fire-prevention RCD is not needed, an RCD on the outgoing lines will be enough. There is a lot of things that can be installed on automation. Voltage relay, voltmeter, ammeter, phase indicator lights and even an arcing protection device (new in our market). It all depends on your desire and capabilities. But as I already said, you definitely cannot do without a voltage relay - this is a vital device.
Additional shield. You have 6 aluminum on the stove. Install the shield in the place where this cable comes. You power the stove as before - directly, plus from this line you connect, for example, two automatic machines 16 (A). And already from these machines, you supply the necessary socket blocks with a new copper cable. I can tell you in more detail, but you need to know more precisely what you want to do.
Dmitry, our automatic machine from 40A has become 25Amp. Although the 6ka holds 32 A. Is this due to the lack of measurements, and the condition of the wires?
On the voltage relay, four years after your review of the RV32A, do you recommend it as well? And will it suit me in terms of characteristics?
In the kitchen.
Now a washing machine is connected directly from the stove, without any ouzo and diffs.
TV, microwave, kettle and small coffee machine hang on the light line. There is a wiring at the top, I just put down the block of outlets. And now the light from 16A has become 10A, it won't pull ...
This is sad.
Dmitry, thanks for another sensible video on YouTube. Thumbs up)))
Here's another question arose on the previous recommendations. For machines, characteristics (C) and (B), and what RCD do I need, (A) or (AC)?
Roman, I have the same floor panel. I strongly advise against connecting to a 6-square cable of aluminum that goes to the stove, anything else (kettle, microwave, etc.). I did this, and as a result, zero from this cable burned out in the floor board. Now we have to pull a new cable from the shield to the kitchen, put a new block in the shield for zeros.
And, in general, Roman, don't bother too much if you are a mortgagee and apartment renovation is not expected soon. On the cable for the stove (6 square aluminum), put a 25 amp circuit breaker. He will protect him stably. You don't use all the comforts and the oven at the same time, do you? A 40 amp automatic machine for such a cable is too much (initially there was a Soviet black 16A machine). Put 10A in the light. To 16A sockets. Separately lay a normal 3x2.5 copper cable (VVGng-ls or NYM) from a 16 amp machine from the floor panel to the kitchen. Make a couple of outlets for your washer, microwave, and kettle. For peace of mind, put an introductory machine on an apartment in 32A. At the very least, it will protect 6 square wires of aluminum from the general switch to your meter, and from the meter to your machines. In total, you will have 5 submachine guns in the shield. Should fit.
That's what I wanted to do.
Can't you use a vulture puncture?
A voltage relay is necessary.that is a fact
5 years have passed, interestingly what has changed there or not?
Faulty electrical wiring poses a strong danger to people and structures, because in most cases it is a source of fire. In the event of a fire from electrical wiring, the first thing they try is to find out who is to blame for this and at whose expense it is necessary to carry out restoration work. Next, we will look at the main causes of wiring fires and how to protect against this dangerous situation.
Causes of ignition of electrical wiring
If safety measures are neglected, a fire may occur in the room. It can also lead to serious consequences of electric shock. We will consider the most popular causes of ignition of wiring below.
Technical difficulites... It is important to keep track of the status of all network wiring and their connections. This includes the main and distribution board, because it is in such places that the main cable lines are supplied, and various protective devices are installed. All devices must be in working order. In advance, back-up protection should be installed in the shields, which can be used in the event of a dangerous situation (for example, short-circuit protection). Basically, the ignition of electrical wiring is possible due to poor contact, therefore, special attention should be paid to the places of wiring connections. For safety and reliability during operation, it is necessary to install it in an apartment, in production or in workshops, especially where there is high humidity.
Smoothly moving from one reason to another, it should be noted that often the ignition of the wiring in the apartment occurs due to the fact that circuit breakers selected incorrectly... The fact is that the purpose of the machine in the dashboard is to instantly work in the event of a short circuit or overload in the network. So with regard to overload, when choosing a circuit breaker, you need to pay attention to the fact that the rating of the machine corresponds to the section of the wiring for the protection of which it is installed. Otherwise, when overloaded, the cable in the wall will start to melt and may catch fire, and the machine will not work, or will work when it happens, which may be late and will still cause a fire in the house or apartment.
Improper or unsafe operation... Each device has a load limit. A fire could be caused by plugging different power strips or extension cords into the same outlet. Damaged plugs or appliance cords are a major hazard. If, after a short time after turning on an electrical appliance, the plug or splitter heats up, this means that there is a problem in the contact connections.
Lighting group malfunction... Lighting devices eventually become the cause of the outbreak. For example, it is necessary to protect the incandescent lamp from splashes, and the switch from moisture.
Technical malfunctions include connection of aluminum wire to copper... Even if everything is connected correctly and the neutral wires are connected with a special strip, an electrical fire may occur. For such connections, a bar made of brass material is not suitable, because over time it oxidizes and the aluminum and brass heats up, which, as a result, leads to a fire. If such a connection was inside a flammable plastic shield, then the consequences will be even worse, because instead of hindering combustion, it begins to melt and support the hearth. It is possible to connect aluminum to copper, if there is no other way to perform electrical installation. However, the connection must be made either through special or with the help of special sleeves.
Another reason is poor quality and old sockets... After all, the plug of the electrical appliance itself must fit snugly into the outlet. If the plug gets hot or sparks, change the socket immediately. Better to pay a little more, but buy a quality outlet. Although they may look the same, in cheap models the plastic heats up and lights up, and the contacts do not have compression springs. We talked about that in a separate article.
The next reason is old aluminum wiring... In older multi-storey buildings, switchboards are located in the stairwell. They are often in a very neglected state, so there is a particular fire hazard. Also, in most old houses, the electrical wiring has never changed, which means that it has already outlived its own, the insulation becomes unusable, and, accordingly, does not protect against a short circuit in the wall. To this we can add that now much more electrical appliances are used than before, therefore the load increases on old wires, which can be aluminum and withstand small loads.
There is a problem today low-quality electrical goods... These products do not withstand the load stated by the manufacturer. It is often necessary to troubleshoot a house or apartment where the wiring has only recently been changed. After about a couple of years, the cable insulation cracks and begins to crumble, and this inevitably leads to a fire.
Some of the causes of fire in the wiring are clearly seen in the video:
Fire protection measures
Various protective measures should be taken to keep the wiring in good condition, for example, run it under plaster rather than under easily flammable building materials. As for the shields, it is better to choose them from metal or non-combustible plastic - this will serve as protection against the spread of fire. We talked about that in detail in a separate article.
It is also important to do at least once a year: view all wire connections in sockets, switches, junction boxes and in the electrical panel itself. Timely detection of poor contact and melted wires is one of the effective ways to protect against fire.
If the wiring is old, be sure to replace it with a new one at the next repair. Cracked insulation, old outlets designed for lower amperage, plugs in the shield. All this can lead to a fire at any moment. If it is not yet possible to spend money on, be sure to install the machines and RCDs in the dashboard. They will save you from fire at the right time. It is also advisable to install a fire-prevention RCD of 100 or 300 mA at the input in wooden houses, as an additional measure of protection.
The fire-fighting RCD is described in detail in the video:
In addition to all this, it is important to know and in no case repeat what we have written separately. For example, a poorly made twist can cause a short circuit and further fire in the electrical wiring. Therefore, twists do not need to be done at all.
And of course, if the apartment smelled of burning wiring, and you yourself are not able to find and fix the malfunction, be sure to call an electrician, having previously turned off the machines in the dashboard.
How and what to extinguish a burning electrical wiring
To extinguish a burning wiring, it is necessary to use special effective fire-fighting means. It is necessary to understand well what to do, how to extinguish, what should be the procedure and what kind of fire extinguisher is used when extinguishing the wiring.
The first thing to know is that if the wiring is energized, it is strictly forbidden to extinguish it with water. Due to the fact that water is an ideal current conductor, the one who sprinkles with water will definitely receive an electric shock. If it is possible to turn off the mains power, then you can use sand, water or a fire extinguisher. However, in the event that it is impossible to turn off the power, only a class E fire extinguisher is used. The class is marked on the body of the fire extinguisher.
To extinguish a burning electrical wiring, carbon dioxide, aerosol and powder extinguishing agents are used. They are used for extinguishing under voltages up to 1000 volts. If the voltage is higher, disconnect the network. Under no circumstances should a foam-air or foam-chemical fire extinguisher be used for extinguishing under tension. In more detail, we talked about it in a separate article.
So we examined why there is a fire in the wiring in the apartment and how to protect yourself from this dangerous situation. We hope the information provided was useful for you and made you think about the implementation of a number of recommendations!
You probably don't know: