Here is another design using the 555 microcircuit. The device is a DC-AC voltage converter, which is designed to power energy-saving lamps from a reduced voltage. Input voltage range 8-18 Volts (optimal 12 Volts). At the output of the transformer, a high-frequency alternating voltage of about 400 Volts is generated. This is a simple and stable single-ended voltage converter that can be used in camping situations or in the car.
Despite its compact size and simple design, the converter develops quite high power, which directly depends on the specific type of key used. Using a powerful field-effect transistor of the IRF3205 series, the power reaches 70 Watts. In my case, IRFZ48 transistor was used, with a power of no more than 50 watts. It is not recommended to increase the power to more than 70 watts, since you will need to calculate the parameters of the pulse transformer again.
The 555 timer operates as a square wave generator. The pulses are amplified by a powerful field key. The transistor must be installed on the heat sink. The pulse transformer consists of only two windings. The primary winding consists of 7 turns. For ease of winding, 3 wire strands with a diameter of 0.5 mm each were used. This solution saves space. Then the boost winding is wound on top of the primary winding. This winding consists of 80 turns of wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. The winding can be wound in bulk without additional insulating layers.
The core was used from an old ATX power supply. First, you need to remove the transformer from the block board and disassemble it. The ferrite halves are tightly glued to each other, so they need to be warmed up a little. You need to heat it carefully (with a lighter or a powerful soldering iron).
Afterwards, you need to remove all the windings and wind the necessary ones. Such a single-ended converter can power fairly powerful neon tubes up to 50 watts. The converter can also be used to power other electrical devices, including those designed for constant voltage, only in this case a rectifier is needed at the output.
Presented to your attention voltage converter circuit (electronic ballast) to power a fluorescent lamp (LDS) from an autonomous 12 V source. The circuit is based on square wave generator, collected on a timer NE 555 .
Pulses from the generator output are supplied to the key transistor VT 1 and step-up transformer. As a step-up transformer, a ready-made network 220/12 can be used, connected in reverse (in the circuit, as you can see, 120V/6V is recommended).
Still, it is advisable to make the transformer yourself, this will increase the efficiency of the converter, as well as use a lamp with a power of up to 18W. The transformer is wound on an armored magnetic core made of 2000NM1 ferrite with an outer diameter of 30 mm. Winding I contains 35 turns of PEV-2 wire with a diameter of 0.45 mm, winding II ≈ 1000 turns of PEV-2 0.16. The windings must be insulated from each other by several layers of varnished fabric. To increase reliability, winding II must be divided into several layers, laying varnished cloth between them. The magnetic circuit cups are assembled with a gap of 0.2 mm and tightened with a screw and nut made of non-magnetic material. A transformer made on a magnetic core fromTV line transformer .
Resistor R 1, it is better to install a trimmer, this will help adjust the maximum brightness of the glow (when adjusted to the resonance frequency of the secondary winding, the current consumption will be significantly reduced).
When using a homemade transformer, capacitors C3, C4 can be eliminated.
Rice.1 Voltage converter for fluorescent lamp
The transformer is assembled on a W-shaped ferrite core Ш8х8. When making a transformer, pay attention to the quality of the winding. The winding should be winding turn to turn, with each layer wrapped with either capacitor paper or fluoroplastic tape. After winding all the windings, the transformer must be impregnated with epoxy resin diluted in alcohol to prevent breakdown of the windings.
I -30 turns PEV-2 0.3mm
II -12 turns PEV-2 0.3mm
III-550 turns PEV-2 0.3mm
The dots indicate the beginning of the windings. First, we wind the third winding, then we attach the terminal of the second winding to the terminal of the third winding and wind it in the opposite direction. Then, we wind the first winding.
The transistor must be placed on the radiator. The button serves to ignite the lamp if this does not happen immediately, but usually the lamps light themselves.
Connect the lamp, and then apply power (Not vice versa! Otherwise, the transformer may break through!). If the lamp does not light up, then swap the terminals of winding I.
List of radioelements
Designation | Type | Denomination | Quantity | Note | Shop | My notepad |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
VT1 | Bipolar transistor | KT863A | 1 | To notepad | ||
C1 | 100 µF | 1 | To notepad | |||
C2(C1) | Electrolytic capacitor | 10 µF | 1 | To notepad | ||
C3, C4 | Capacitor | 0.01 µF 1000 V | 2 | To notepad | ||
R1 | Resistor | 1 kOhm | 1 | To notepad | ||
R2 | Resistor | 470 Ohm | 1 | To notepad | ||
Tr1 | Transformer | 1 | To notepad | |||
LV1 | Lamp | 1 | To notepad | |||
SW1 | Button | 1 |
It is very easy and simple to make a converter from 12 Volt DC to 310 Volt DC, which will allow you to power any devices that have a switching power supply, because At the input of such a block there is always a diode bridge, which turns an alternating voltage of 220 Volts into a constant voltage of 310 Volts. The best application is to turn on the lamps from the vehicle's on-board network, because Inside a CFL (compact fluorescent lamp) there is an electronic converter with just such a rectifier at the input and the light bulb will light in exactly the same way as from a 220V network. It can also be used to charge a cell phone, charge and operate a laptop, even a desktop computer can be powered through this converter, only a larger radiator for transistors is needed and a fan for it, a TV, DVD player, etc. equipment will work without problems.
But the most curious thing is that all the parts were taken from a dead computer power supply.
Here's the diagram:
The transformer is taken ready-made from a computer power supply. It is easy to distinguish him from others there - he will have a “pigtail”. 5 Volt windings are used.
The microcircuit is also taken from the power supply - this is the master oscillator for PWM. All the details in its harness are taken from there. It is even preferable to take not the ratings from the circuit, but those ratings that worked with the donor transformer, then the efficiency of the converter will be the best (frequency and duty cycle will correspond to the parameters of the transformer).
I assembled this converter on a breadboard and stuffed it into a spotlight designed for 30W CFL.
I connected a 5m long wire with crocodile clips at the end and plugged in the power switch.
The result is a camping lamp that shines no worse than a 500W halogen spotlight with a consumption of only 35W. The car one will last for 10-15 hours of glow, i.e. for several evenings, away from electrical networks, there will be bright light for the camp and charging of any cell phones, navigators, radio stations, etc.
As a development of this device, it is necessary to build in protection against polarity reversal (otherwise there is a risk of failure of the converter) and protection against complete discharge of the battery. I’ll post the design of the simplest, like all ingenious, protection against battery discharge a little later.
COSTAS I don’t understand the diagrams, I want to assemble various ready-made parts from the designer.Ptramids are a separate conversation, I don’t want to convince you*
About the ozonator and the rest, I understood your skeptical attitude.
But I want to create an ozonizer similar to Dudyshev’s, if you can help me with your electrical knowledge.
From practice, about the ozonizer, I can say that 7 years ago, having an uninterruptible power supply from my computer, I put this bactericidal lamp in the corrugation and connected it in front of the filter on OKE, saving 2 liters but only in the city due to traffic jams. On the highway, the evekt lost its clear why there was a lack of ozone concentration. The master who adjusted the CO and the carburetor, the poor thing suffered, but the stubborn one (Georgian or Armenian) even drilled out the ignition adjustment. And I put another screw in the caburator. But he couldn’t understand why at xx the CO decreases to 1.5 times below the norm and then appears again above. And the Okushny two doors were repaired for 70 thousand, and I got 150 thousand, and maybe it would have been more, but I crashed the car.
After installing the lamp and adjustments, the oil from the oil was much lighter, I then checked it for quality, on swings in the yard, loops in the entrance, etc., in general, it did not lose its properties and stank less. I barely remember the mineral water, I remember that it was 80 rubles more expensive than the cheapest one, I changed it every 10 thousand. I never threw everything away during detention. While it was filtered through paper, the gasoline evaporated and did not smell like anything at all, it dripped into the barrel with the burnts, the burnts were soaked and the usual burnt on for the start and then 2 soaked for the whole night.* I was skeptical about the pyramid, ha ha, some kind of figurine can do something.
But I wouldn’t be Vasya if I hadn’t checked. Let me note that I am a religious person.
Defended the pyramid with micron precision in Corel Drave 11.
There was a problem printing, the printers froze, it drove me crazy. What the hell is this all nonsense, why isn’t it printing? As a result, after 2 years, a modern HP plotter in A3 format printed a scan (that can then be folded), but it turns out that the 3rd side is different from the others. I check the file, there really are differences. I make a new scan based on one face, print it out, again it doesn’t converge and changes have occurred in the saved file. A copy of the file not printed on the plotter to the printing center is rejected after half an hour. I whispered at the entrance, it turned out the plotter died.
Slaveni And do you think I would have stopped there, but it got really bad, I found out that everywhere where SP2 Pyramid does not print, it burns or freezes.
I dug out a 98 Windows disk and printed it on an A3 cutting plotter for 150 grams of paper, almost cutting it so that it folded exactly along the edges, folded it, which resulted in 2 years of torment. I glued it together and checked it.
If your legs are twisting before precipitation (weather), we put the pyramid under the bed and orient it and your legs don’t twist. Your beloved took part in the experiment, chaotically removing and installing the pyramid. As a result, he stands under the bed and forgot about it and his legs before the precipitation.
Experiment 2
Vest blades poppy 3 killed - sharpened within a year. paper pyramid 19 cm high
Experiment 3
I took the girl to the airport and saw her off. They stopped at the X-ray scanner, 3 times the bag back and forth, she was at a loss. I apologized, explained myself, I looked to help, and then the whole monitor turned white when her bag went through, the cop pulled out all the metal and plastic, the bag went through, then the metal went through and then the plastic and again the X-ray went off scale. A plastic hollow pyramid from the Crimea appeared and scaled the X-ray. As a result, the primer took root in my car on the dashboard. The black one does not reflect, it works, it does not work, check there are no underground Nexias..
130 thousand for 3 years and I haven’t changed anything, just front brake discs and consumables
Fuck the pyramid, we need to build an ozonator!!! Based on ready-made parts, I connected it and it works...
PS: I froze, my enthusiasm kept me from falling asleep, and when I got home it crashed, sorry for the mistakes.