Ceiling plaster: advantages and disadvantages, surface preparation, composition selection, installation of beacons and fine finishing. How to plaster a ceiling: a description of the process and a video tutorial Primer for ceiling plaster

Any repair begins with a rough finish of all surfaces. First of all, the ceiling is prepared and this process should be given enough time and effort, since it can be quite difficult to create a perfectly flat surface the first time.

Today we will find out how do-it-yourself ceiling plastering is carried out, how to mask or fix small flaws on the surface after its preparation, how to cheaply repair the ceiling after damage, and what preparation requirements are needed for certain finishing materials.

Choice between dry and wet

Before starting the repair process, you should study some of the features of ceiling alignment. At the moment, there are such ways to align it:

Dry method - not used so often, but allows you to create a perfectly even base in the shortest possible time. Drywall is used as a consumable material, the joints of which are subsequently puttied. This investment cannot be called minimal and, unfortunately, it is not suitable for all dwellings. Plasterboard sheets are used in the case of running ceilings
Wet option - ideal when you need to cover small defects or prepare the ceiling for painting. For surfaces with differences exceeding 4-5 cm, it is necessary to use plaster, and for irregularities of 4-5 mm, putty is used. An uneven ceiling does not stand out for its attractiveness, and when the height differences on it are more than 5 cm, a stretch ceiling or gypsum plasterboard should be chosen as a design.

Important! When applying a thick layer of plaster, the coating may begin to crack, crumble or fall off in pieces, which threatens not only to damage the repair, but even to injury. If you notice cracks on the plastered ceiling, you should not wait for it to collapse - dismantle it.

Features of plaster

Before you start using a plaster mortar, you need to find out all its pros and cons, and then clarify how to properly prepare the mixture with your own hands. There are a large number of recipes and proportions among home craftsmen, but today we will look at the preparation standards and the benefits of such plasters.

Advantages	disadvantages
Eco-friendly and safe	The maximum allowable layer of plaster is 5 cm
Compared to others, this is a cheap way to prepare bases.	Do-It-Yourself Plastering Requires Skills
High-quality material can be used in the home where allergy sufferers and people with respiratory problems live	The services of professionals are expensive, especially when it comes to ceiling planes, which take more time and effort.
soundproof
Slightly reduces ceiling height

Plaster for the ceiling is selected not only according to price preferences, but also according to the declared characteristics of the material. High-quality plasters are sold in hardware stores and have quality certificates.

The main types of mixtures

What kind of plaster for the ceiling of the house to choose and how much does it cost? - a question that worries any beginner in terms of repair work. Among the variety of finishing mixtures, the main ones can be distinguished:

Ready based on polymers - the preparation of the ceiling with their help is carried out at the highest level. The advantage lies in the ease of use of the solution, which does not need to be diluted. However, this is an expensive choice with large flaws in the ceiling - at the stage of full-scale leveling, ready-made mixtures are unprofitable.
Cement - soundproof, act as a heater, to improve the quality, you can add lime and sand. Lime and sand plasters do not shrink
Gypsum - gypsum has good adhesion to concrete surfaces. They are easier to work with, they are distinguished by an average pricing policy. Plaster perfectly lays down on concrete and brick walls.

Before you start plastering the ceiling, let's look at the popular and sought-after manufacturers of putty mixtures:

Rotband from Knauf is a great alternative to long-drying mixtures. Among the advantages, a harmless composition, fast drying speed, compatibility with additional insulation are distinguished. As with any process, surfaces must be primed before plastering.
Eunice - makes it possible to set a good start for finishing. The reason for this frequent choice is the increased strength of the material. In addition, there is no need to whitewash the base with finishing putties. With the help of Eunice, you can cover up depressions up to 5 cm and apply layers up to 3 cm without losing the declared properties. When properly applied, material collapse is minimized.
Rotgypsum - for dry and wet rooms, when a special primer is used. The minimum consumption is 8 kg per 1 m2 with a thickness of 10 mm, it is manufactured in accordance with GOST standards, and has supporting documents. Unlike cement, it sets within an hour, which is why it should be worked out in a given period of time. Performs surface hardening. Rotgypsum can make a thick layer, which sometimes reaches 50 mm
Volma - thanks to various packaging, you can buy plaster for 5kn, 15kg, 20kg, 30kg. This is very convenient when processing both small and large areas. The norms for the use of such a brand require the use in rooms with moderate temperature fluctuations. Most often, Volma is used to level curved walls, but it can also be placed on a curved ceiling. Before applying the material, it is not necessary to sand the bases and even prime them. For applied plaster, only a clean base is important
Vetonit - various plasters are made, which are applied to brick, plywood, fiberglass, osb, fiberboard, gypsum boards, wooden surfaces and external walls. Dry mixes are easy to use, the finished solution has a service life of 2-3 hours, and the finished base can withstand up to 100 freeze-thaw cycles

Important! Photo and video lessons teach beginners how to level the ceiling with plaster on their own, how to calculate the right amount of the mixture, how to make an estimate for further work, what proportions to use when making plaster and how to hide a small flaw by creating a pattern on the ceiling with putty.

Sometimes it is simply impossible to carry out repair processes with your own hands due to a number of reasons. Then qualified specialists who will need to pay for their services can come to the rescue. Let's find out what prices for plaster ceilings per m2. A small table shows prices for certain processes:

In addition, textured, structural, Venetian putties and bark beetle can be used as finishing materials. With their help, a special style, beautiful drawings and patterns are created on the ceiling, which are in demand not only in ordinary rooms of an apartment, but also in a loft.

Alignment and preparation, tools

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands for painting with video and photo materials makes it possible to visually learn about the nuances of the whole process. But now we will find out what tools will be needed for alignment:

Primer and plaster mixes
Roller and brushes
plastic tray
Spatulas
Level
construction mixer
hand grater
rule

Important! When you do not have a construction mixer at hand, you can use a special stirring nozzle that is worn on a drill.

Finishing begins with cleaning the ceiling. From it you need to remove old wallpaper, peeled paint, wash off dirt, remove dust. Concrete contact primer is suitable for a concrete ceiling, which creates a good adhesive coating. It is required to clean the ceiling when the previous repair included puttying. To do this, use a cloth and water to wash off the coating and remove it with a spatula. There are adhesive mixtures that include antiseptic additives - with their help, mold and fungus do not develop on the surface.

When the base is already affected, the technology includes additional processing with specialized mixtures. The cost of such materials is low. Primers are applied in two layers, between which an hour and a half break should be maintained. When the base is completely dry, it remains to mark the differences, mark the place where there are large irregularities, mix the necessary mortar and plaster the ceiling. Follow this sequence:

Mark the lowest point of the ceiling - this will be the final height
Lighthouses need to be installed according to the level, fixed with plaster or alabaster
Choose a corner of the wall and start from it - the texture of the mixture should be thick, it is better to knead for lighthouses with your hands
In order for the floor to last for a long time, pay attention to what temperature you prepare the plaster and under what conditions you use it. When the room is more than 23-25 degrees, then use a spray bottle to spray and moisten. To create a high-quality and continuous layer - set the grid
You can apply plaster using a machine method - mechanization of the process allows you to speed up the leveling work. The mechanical option is suitable for private homes when there is a compressor at hand
For one layer, a thickness of 10-20 mm is sufficient, when the irregularities exceed this figure, then you will need to plaster in several layers. As a result, the beacon should be a little buried in the building mixture. Too thin mortar will drip, so when you prepare the plaster yourself, control its density
On average, subsequent work is allowed 24 hours after leveling, however, in some places the ceiling may dry a little longer. It is better to putty large areas with dry mortars - they are much more economical

Important! All arched, decorative baguettes, plinths are glued after the lining is completed. Metal corners help to bring out the inner corners.

You can glue the tapestries or paint the base after the ceiling is completely dry and is solid white - if there are stains, you will need to re-prime and level. In prefabricated houses, balconies, kitchens and other rooms do not differ in their evenness, in some cases it is better to block significant height differences with suspended ceilings. Stretching a PVC ceiling takes less time and effort, but when there are beams in the room, it is better to call specialists. The advantages of stretch ceilings are that you can choose matte or glossy canvases, patterns or plain fabrics.

The ceiling is striking - this is a fact. Not always, of course, in the first place, but it rushes. When it is done as smoothly as possible, the room looks neat and presentable - even if you do not purposefully direct your gaze upwards. Let's talk about how to plaster the ceiling - after all, this is one of the most important stages in creating beauty and comfort in the house. Competent performance of work will allow you to forget about repairing surfaces above your head for more than one year.

For the best adhesion of the mortar to the base, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. First of all - "remove" the old coating to the concrete itself. The base - a "bare" concrete ceiling - after all the manipulations should remain completely clean.

To flush or not to flush?

Do not "think" of washing off whitewash or putty! Thus, you will only scatter white, stubborn dirt over the surface. Subsequently, a primer of the “betocontact” type will stick to it either very poorly, or not at all.

"Flushing" can be called a logical solution for the ceiling only if you are planning only a light cosmetic repair - a simple "trimming" and updating it; without thick layers of finishing materials. Otherwise, the plaster will have nothing left but to soak and pull off the remnants of the putty. Moving away from the base, the plaster will “swell”.

View of the ceiling prepared for plastering

The primer will provide adhesion

After the ceiling is completely cleaned, you can start priming. The primer of the “betokontakt” type incorporates special grains, which form a surface roughness when dried - thanks to this, the plaster adheres to the surface much better. We leave the primed ceiling alone until the next day - the entire area should dry thoroughly.

Try not to overdo it with opening windows and drafts - the whole process should proceed as naturally as possible.

Installation of beacons on the ceiling

Action algorithm:

Use a puncher to drill holes in the ceiling. They should be located in the center and along the edges of the ceiling. Self-tapping screws will be screwed according to the level of the rule - the distance between the holes will depend on its length;
Drill the first hole at a distance of about 30 cm from the wall, each subsequent hole at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule;

When using a two-meter device in a "standard" room, no more than three holes are required - at opposite walls and in the center.

Drive a dowel into each of the holes and tighten the screws, check each of the positions with a level;

Checking should be carried out not only in length and width, but also diagonally;

The next item is the formation of paths between the beacons (from the solution).

Attention! For the tracks, use the same plaster that will subsequently be plastered on the ceiling.

The track should hide the caps of the screws;
Take the perforated strip of the beacon profile and attach it to the track. Using, again, the rules, press it into the solution until it stops with self-tapping screws, repeat the procedure with all elements;
Thoroughly coat the resulting beacons with a solution, especially carefully fill the voids along the rail;
Now you can arrange a short break for yourself - it is necessary for the "seizure" of the solution.

Important! According to some sources, all work after the installation of beacons should be stopped for 24 hours or more - in order to achieve absolute polymerization of the plaster. Such a step is really justified - the risk of displacement and / or damage to the beacons is reduced. But on the other hand, the joints of fresh and hardened putty will be doomed to insufficient adhesion. This will negatively affect the strength of the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling. The most reasonable solution in this situation is to plaster on relatively fresh lighthouses, while being as careful as possible.

Plastered ceiling in the kitchen

Plaster ceiling step by step

It all depends on the thickness of the plaster layer. If it is 10-15 mm, then you can do without the mesh, limiting yourself only to gluing it at the seams between the plates (rust).

If the thickness of the plaster exceeds 20-25 mm, it is better not to rely on "maybe".

Preparing the mixture

Experts unanimously declare that the gypsum mixture is the most rational option for solving such a difficult task as plastering the ceiling with your own hands. Consider the algorithm for preparing a solution using the example of a mixture of gypsum Rotband from Knauf:

The plastic container must be filled with 18 pure water;
Using a spatula, “attach” 1 kg of dry mixture to the water, mix thoroughly;
Add the rest of the mixture;
Mix the solution with a drill with a nozzle;
Make sure the product is homogeneous;
Leave the product for 5 minutes, then stir again.

How to plaster the ceiling - the finish line

Apply the solution with a metal spatula or grater, previously moistened with water: the plaster will not stick to the tools so much. The thickness of the layer should slightly exceed the distance "lighthouses - the base of the ceiling." Press the grater firmly against the ceiling so that there are no shells or voids left. So, the first layer is applied.

Now take a roll of mesh, unwind it a little and place it over your head. With a grater or spatula, press the mesh to the applied layer; at the same time, continue to unwind (along the beacons) the roll. Note! Using galvanized metal mesh for reinforcement, apply considerable effort - “push” the composition through the cells.

After fixing the mesh, apply a second layer. Remove excess plaster with the rule (stretch it along the lighthouses). The final stage is the removal of beacon plates (you can leave the aluminum plates alone). Seal the furrows with the remaining solution. Subsequent finishing work should be started after the plaster has completely dried (3-14 days).

How to plaster the ceiling - video

The video instruction will help you evaluate your strengths and decide whether to plaster the ceiling with your own hands.

Accuracy and strict adherence to the instructions is the absolute key to success. It is worth noting that plastering the ceiling is not an easy task. If you still have doubts about your own competence, do not take risks: contact experienced specialists.

Plastering the ceiling is an important stage in the repair of the ceiling surface. Regardless of which design method is chosen (painting, wallpapering, whitewashing), you will first have to level the ceiling. For this, purchased or self-prepared compositions are used.

How to plaster ceilings: with or without beacons

Plasterboard construction, slatted, suspended or stretch ceilings usually do not require plastering. Before starting work, the old finish is removed, then the floor is primed. But, if the ceiling is supposed to be painted, then the base base must be perfectly flat, since the paint will make defects on the surface even more noticeable.

You can plaster ceilings using one of two technologies: with and without beacons. It is better to work with beacons to get a flat plane. But sometimes there are ceilings on which there are significant differences in height. On such surfaces, too thick a layer of the composition will fall off.

Professional craftsmen for such cases recommend installing plasterboard structures, and then covering them with plaster. Drywall will level the ceiling, while finishing will take less time. However, the suspension system will reduce the height of the room. In this case, it is better to plaster the ceiling without beacons.

The main task of the technology is to make the ceiling smooth in certain areas. Then the height differences will not be very striking, and the surface will look even. In this case, all work starts from the center of the room.

How to properly plaster ceilings: choosing a mixture

The procedure for preparing and applying the solution depends on which plaster for the ceiling is chosen. Each package is supplied with instructions, which indicate the exact proportions of the dilution of the mixture.

Suitable for plastering concrete ceilings. The advantages of such compounds are strength and long service life. In addition to performing the main function of leveling the plane, cement plaster is a versatile material that is used for interior and exterior work.

Buyers are alarmed by the myth that cement-based mixtures crack after drying. In fact, this is a misconception. Cracks on the surface appear as a result of a violation of the technology of work and the preparation of plaster:

if the proportions of the components are not observed. Cement is a material that is sensitive to sudden changes in temperature and humidity. As the cement dries, it shrinks. To prevent this from happening, fine-grained sand is added to modern formulations. Fillers make the plaster dense, therefore, during the hardening of the mixture, the stress on the plaster layer becomes less;
forced drying will adversely affect the plastered surface. Do not use a hair dryer, fan or other equipment to speed up drying. This will cause the plaster layer to crust on the outside and remain damp on the inside.

Used for plastering ceilings made of wood or plasterboard. The result is a smooth and even surface.

Such compositions have the following advantages:

dry quickly compared to cement counterparts. 3-4 hours are enough for the complete drying of the layer;
adhere well to the ceiling surface;
absorb excess moisture, do not give it back;
gypsum mixtures include quartz, perlite or lime sand. These additives give the composition useful properties, improve the quality of work.

Since the material dries quickly, you also need to work with gypsum plaster quickly, and dilute as much of the mixture as you can work out in one go.

Used for plastering clay ceilings and concrete floors. The pluses include:

the solution can be prepared independently from natural clay, which will reduce the cost of finishing;
material is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
resistance to sudden temperature changes;
the ability of clay to recover quickly allows you to repair a damaged section of the ceiling without replacing the entire coating.

Modern purchased formulations

According to professional craftsmen, the following types of plaster are of high quality:

Knauf Rotband based on gypsum is used for finishing smooth ceiling and wall surfaces;
Knauf Sevener - cement plaster with polymer additives is used to restore old plastered surfaces. Suitable for outdoor decoration;
Bergauf Bau Interuer on a cement base with perlite fillers is used for finishing rooms with a normal level of humidity;
Volma-Holst is a gypsum mixture for interior decoration of premises with normal humidity.

If you have not previously had experience with plaster, when choosing a composition, consider the time for complete solidification of the diluted mixture. During this period, it is necessary to fully develop the solution. Of the listed species, Volma freezes longer, faster than the rest of Knauf.

Any coating that is applied to a floor slab is a multi-layer composition. In addition, each layer must be performed qualitatively. Otherwise, the result of all work will suffer.

The putty mixture will better grasp the concrete floor if the ceiling is treated with a primer before applying the composition. Painting will also be faster and easier if plastered ceilings are primed. This will not only improve the adhesion of the two materials, but also the paint will lie more evenly.

Another plus in the piggy bank of the primer mixture is to ensure the strength of the decorative coating. Especially if the materials are prone to cracking and shedding.

There is also a primer that prevents the appearance and development of mold on the ceiling surface. The bactericidal components that make up such a primer make the ceiling safe for humans.

Conventionally, primers are divided into three types:

deep penetration, penetrating deep into the material being processed. For example, "Ceresite";
strengthening. The adhesive components included in the primer prevent cracking and shedding of surfaces. The disadvantage of this type is that the composition is not recommended for processing hard and dense surfaces, since after drying it forms a polymer film that peels off and falls off along with the finishing material. But for loose ceilings, this type is better than the rest;
general purpose, improving the adhesion of decorative layers of materials to the base. Such compositions are used in the preparation of the ceiling surface for painting.

How to plaster a ceiling: rustication

For sealing joints, it is better to use gypsum-based plaster, which sets quickly, is plastic, and is pliable in work. Dilute the dry mixture to a homogeneous consistency, break up the lumps. Remove the old finish from the ceiling, embroider the rustication with construction tools (chisels, drills or perforators), remove dust and excess debris from the recesses, clean the joints with a metal brush. Prime the rustications with a deep penetration compound and proceed to embedding:

fill too deep rustications with mounting foam, wait until it dries, remove excess parts with a knife;
Apply a small amount of plaster to the ceiling with a small spatula. The strokes should be neat with light pressure so that the mortar fills the space between the floor slabs;
remove the excess solution with a spatula in the direction along the rust. If you work across, depressions are formed, which will become more pronounced after the mixture has solidified;
simultaneously correct other surface defects;
after the mortar has set, reinforce the joints with a sickle mesh. The joint of adjacent plates should be in the middle of the tape;
coat the mesh with a layer of mortar 3-5 mm thick.

If the work is done correctly, the result will be a flat and smooth ceiling with missing seams between the floor slabs.

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands will be easy and fast if you prepare the ceiling for work with high quality.

Surface preparation

Before applying the plaster mixture, the ceiling surface is first primed. For concrete floors, one coat of primer is sufficient. The composition will remove dust from the ceiling and create an adhesive layer for the plaster layer. If there are joints between the floor slabs, they first work with them, only then they proceed to align the ceiling plane.

If the work will be carried out on painted or whitewashed ceilings, the old finish is washed away with a soapy solution and removed with a spatula. After that, primed with two layers of primer. Each layer takes 1-1.5 hours to dry. The composition must dry well before plastering the ceiling.

When the surface is primed, evaluate the irregularities in the ceiling with a tape measure, applying the measuring device to all areas in turn to find the lowest point. Beacons will be placed on plaster or alabaster from it.

Beacons are perforated planks with a protruding back. It serves as the basis for leveling the plaster mix. Before proceeding with the plastering of the ceiling with their own hands, beacons are installed:

first markup is applied to the ceiling. The first beacon is installed 30 cm from the wall, the next - in increments of 120-130 cm;
as each beacon is set, the accuracy is immediately checked using the building level. The resulting indicator is then transferred to opposite walls;
self-tapping screws are screwed into the walls and a nylon thread is pulled, along which alignment is made;
when the beacons are exposed, they wait for the solution to completely solidify and begin to plaster the ceiling.

To get a flat surface, use a spatula and a falcon. Using the second tool, the mixture is thrown onto the ceiling. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:

dry plaster is diluted with water so that the composition resembles thick sour cream in consistency;
apply the prepared solution to the ceiling by throwing or brush strokes. Choose the option that is easier and more convenient to work with;
it is better to apply the composition in strips of 50-60 cm, gradually filling the space between adjacent beacons;
then the rule is set on beacons, the mixture is leveled with a tool. In order for the plaster to adhere more closely to the ceiling, the rule is slightly swayed;
the solution that remains on the instrument is removed with a spatula;
check the area for evenness. In the presence of defects and depressions, add the mixture;
leave the surface to dry for 5-8 hours.

If ceilings are plastered in a wooden house, a special metal mesh with a mesh size of 10x10 cm is attached to the ceiling surface or a two-layer shingle is stuffed, deepening the nail heads into wooden slats. This is necessary to prevent cracking of the mixture after solidification. The plaster is applied in two layers, each carefully leveled with a spatula and dried.

The rusts formed after the removal of the lighthouses are filled with the same composition that was used for plastering. The rule for work is no longer needed, level the ceiling with a wide spatula. It remains only to wait for the complete drying of the surface. This will take 5-7 days.

Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is a simple process, but it requires accuracy and high-quality materials. At the same time, not a single stage of work can be left without attention. Only then will the plastered ceilings turn out to be even and smooth, ready for further finishing.

What is attractive plaster

What kind of plaster to choose for the ceiling is decided primarily on the material of manufacture of the ceiling itself. After all, today it can be several materials. It is also worth understanding how much this coating is suitable for your case, it is probably better to just make a lining with another material. So let's immediately figure out what we will achieve by applying this coating.

Pros:

This is the most economical option. Plaster allows you to ennoble the ceiling without large financial investments. Cassette and stretch ceilings are much more expensive than building mixtures.
Almost all plaster solutions are environmentally friendly for humans and the environment. After all, neither cement nor gypsum emit any substances harmful to health.
Plastering the ceiling has another indisputable advantage - it does not hide the height of the room. The thickness of the plaster layer does not exceed 5 centimeters.
It is worth noting that suspended and stretch ceiling coverings also slightly reduce the height of the room. It depends on what materials are chosen.

- Plastering the ceiling surface does not require large expenditures if it is done on its own. If you use the services of a master, then you will have to pay a lot of money for the work. After all, this work is quite expensive.
- Plastering hides differences in the levels of ceiling surfaces and walls only within a limited range of 5 cm. The reason for this is not so much the colossal consumption of building material as a threat to life. A thick layer of plaster may not stay on the ceiling and, falling, cause irreparable damage to human health, even death.
- For plastering, you must have experience in performing this type of work.. Many types of suspended ceilings can be installed quite well even by a person who has never done this before. But plastering large surfaces is unlikely to be within the power of a beginner. From the first time it is very difficult to achieve a smooth ceiling surface, which is necessary for painting (see How to paint the ceiling with paint: do it yourself).

How to do plastering

What are the first steps to be taken when plastering the ceiling surface, now we will consider. Here, the ceiling material is in the first place, and the preparation of the plane will depend on it.

Surface inspection

First of all, you need to decide: is ceiling plaster really necessary?

If the surface level differences are five millimeters or less, then you can get by with just puttying the ceiling. To do this, use a wide spatula and the rule.
If the differences are more than five centimeters, then plastering is a danger to humans. Beginners should limit the plaster layer to a level of 3 centimeters.

Surface preparation for plaster

Consider the most unfavorable option: the old plaster layer is destroyed in places and has fungal infections, the ceiling surface is replete with numerous cracks and height differences.

How to prepare the surface in this situation:

First you need to moisten the entire surface to be treated with water. The procedure should be repeated twice with a frequency of 2 - 3 hours. This will soften the old plaster layer so that it can be removed more easily in the future. Wetting significantly reduces dust levels.
Using a hard spatula, you need to clean the ceiling surface so that the floor slabs are visible. To clean difficult areas, use a perforator. The seams between the plates must be freed from plaster, which is weakly held.
The remaining cement dust and lime can be washed off with a sponge dipped in water.
At the next stage, the areas affected by the mold fungus are treated. The minimum surface area to be treated should be 20 cm. In rooms with high humidity, the entire ceiling is treated.

Attention: It should be noted that any liquid containing chlorine in its composition is suitable for the destruction of mold and fungus (this can be an ordinary “Whiteness” or a similar agent). But the antiseptic primer, in addition to getting rid of the fungus, does not allow it to appear again. In this case, the savings are inappropriate.

The final stage of preparatory work includes priming the ceiling surface with any primer. This will strengthen the outer concrete layer and improve its setting with the plaster mixture.

Which plaster to choose

It's no secret that plastering concrete ceilings is significantly different from how plaster is applied to a clay ceiling. It just uses different ingredients.

The preparation of the solution and the application rules will depend on them. Let's immediately consider what we eat on the sales market and why a certain composition is better suited. On each package there is of course an instruction that should be studied, but you also need to approach some features of the material.

Cement-based plaster mixes

If you are thinking about how to plaster a concrete ceiling, then this composition is suitable in most cases. The highest strength and long service life distinguishes plaster for ceiling surfaces based on cement.

If decorating the ceiling plane does not involve covering the surface with drywall, plywood or arranging stretch fabrics, then the ceiling will have to be leveled. The quality of the process depends on the aesthetics of the final work - painting or wallpapering. Consider how the ceiling is plastered with your own hands for painting, what materials, tools are needed, and why this stage of repair is needed at all.

Note that the technology of the process is laborious and complex. First of all, because all the work is carried out at height. It is necessary to take up the alignment of ceilings for painting in the presence of plane defects, differences in level height up to 5 cm. The option is used on planes made of any material, including wood, metal.

The plane should be leveled using plaster and putty. The difference between the compositions is component: plaster is a granular mixture designed to fill potholes and crevices. But putty is a fine-grained substance that tightens minor defects.

Advice! If the damage to the plane is subtle, for example, thin cracks, chips up to 2 mm deep, putty is enough for work.

The second difference in the use of compositions is the thickness of the applied layer. Plaster can be laid out on a previously prepared surface with a layer up to 5 cm thick (preferably 2 times), and putty - up to 2 mm. With all its advantages, ceiling plastering for painting is an intermediate stage of technology, which begins with surface preparation and ends with priming after puttying.

Plastering technology

The main thing in the process is not to skip the stages of work and choose the right materials. The technology is not complicated, and doing the processes yourself can save a lot of money: the services of professionals are estimated at $ 10 per m2 if the device is used; Do-it-yourself work is cheaper, but the result may not impress.

All steps follow this order:

preparation of the ceiling for plaster;
plastering;
puttying;
finishing processing;
decoration.

Each stage ends with the priming of the plane. The primer for plastering the ceiling should be of deep penetration, and when working in rooms with high or variable humidity, climate, primers with antiseptic components should be chosen.

Tools and materials for work

Useful:

a set of spatulas;
container up to 20 l;
building level;
an electric drill with a nozzle or a construction mixer;
roller, wide brush;
plaster profile for lighthouses;
rule;
emery of different fractions;
primer;
plaster;
putty.

Be sure to purchase personal protective equipment, prepare rags, a vacuum cleaner, a strong stepladder. All pieces of furniture that are not taken out of the room, walls and floors should be protected from dust with a film.

Choosing a primer, plaster

Priming mixtures can be for:

water-based paints - used before decorating;
plasters and putties - needed to impregnate the base during work and before applying the finishing putty;
universal - suitable for all stages of work.

As for the plaster, it is chosen as follows:

Gypsum and cement compositions are better suited for kitchens and bathrooms. These are eco-friendly mixtures that absorb excess moisture and do not crack when the climate changes.
For living rooms, bedrooms, you should take lime mixtures or combined, with the addition of gypsum. Durable and reliable compositions do not emit harmful substances, but can deteriorate from moisture.
For ceilings made of stone, wood in rooms with a minimum level of humidity, clay plaster is suitable. This is an "eternal" mixture, which is distinguished by high practical qualities, but only if there is no moisture in the room.

On a note! There are enough universal type plasters with polymer components on sale. The composition is well suited for beginner craftsmen, as it is elastic, has a long shelf life and can be applied in any room.

And a little about putty. It is the start and the finish line. When carrying out plastering work, it is better to take finishing putty. This is a fine-grained mixture that does not close up defects, but tightens the plane, giving the desired level of smoothness. The composition should be stretched with a layer up to 2 mm thick. If the first layer does not give the desired result, after the ceiling has completely dried, you need to tighten the surface again, smearing the putty even thinner.

Surface primer

Before priming the base, a number of works should be performed:

Completely remove old decor from the ceiling. Wash lime, water-based paint, remove ordinary paint with solvents, wet the wallpaper, scrape it off with a spatula. If tiles were glued to the ceiling, dismantle them, remove the adhesive tracks with a spatula.
Assess visually the integrity of the foundation. If there are peeling zones, falling off pieces of plaster, remove, clean, sand.
If there are areas with mold, fungus - clean to the ground. Then wash the zones with a mixture of copper sulfate, dry, rinse and treat with a clean antiseptic.
Dust the surface with a damp cloth or vacuum cleaner. Dry.
Now you can prime. The primer is applied with a roller, a wide brush. Application in 2 coats, no zone skipping. To ensure a continuous application of the primer, smear the first layer across a long wall, allow to dry, the second layer "pass" along the length.

This completes the preparation and priming of the base, you can start plastering work.

Installation of beacons

Before you watch how to plaster the ceiling for painting, install beacons. Parts are needed to level the plane and ensure the quality of work.

Beacon placement technology:

Using the building (laser) level, find the lowest corner in the room, mark it on the wall. Mark off a horizontal line on the walls along the entire perimeter of the room.
Use a tape measure to find this low point of the ceiling, put a mark - this is the first beacon. With a step of 30 cm, set the rest of the beacons, using a gypsum mixture for mounting parts. Beacons can be made from a plaster profile.
The height of the beacon is not more than 50 mm; to align the horizontal, use a level or a rule.

Plaster work

And now about how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands for painting.

The application of the mixture begins only after the composition for mounting the beacons has dried:

prepare the plaster mix, if it was sold in dry components - mix everything with the right amount of water, which is added strictly according to the instructions;
mix the composition as follows: stir for 10 minutes, let stand for another 10 minutes and then stir for 5 minutes - so the mixture will be more homogeneous;
the first layer is a spray, it does not need to be leveled in order to better hold the primer layer;
let the spray dry for about 5 minutes, then apply the next layer of plaster in such a way that the thickness is not more than the height of the beacons;
level the plaster with the rule, relying on neighboring beacons;
any influxes, pits should be leveled right there in the process;
at this stage, you can remove the beacons, but only on the condition that you do not have to apply a second layer;
if the second portion of the plaster is applied, then the first layer is dried, then only the next portions of the plaster can be applied.

It remains to remove the beacons, seal the holes with the same solution, level. Knowing how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands for painting, do not forget about leveling the plane - the horizontal is checked by the level. If the differences are too large, plasters can be added, but in such a way that the edges of the leveled zone go “to zero” with the rest of the surface. You can also check the horizontal by the rule - move along the plane, evaluating the result.

On a note! Particular attention should be paid to the corners and joints of the ceiling with the walls. Here you will have to level with a spatula, carefully removing excess composition.

Having figured out how to plaster the ceiling for painting, having applied the composition, let the base dry and sand the entire plane with emery fraction from No. 100. Then prime and dry the ceiling twice.

Surface finishing technology

Finishing puttying is a process that is easiest to do with a wide spatula. Putty is sold ready-made, it should only be mixed well and can be applied. With a narrow spatula, transfer the composition to a wide one, then stretch the mixture properly along the ceiling, without pressing the spatula blade with force, but achieving evenness of the surface. You can see the result of the work immediately - putty tightens all the bumps, minor defects.

It didn’t work out the first time to level the plane, let the ceiling dry and you can apply a second layer, even thinner (up to 1 mm). It is not recommended to apply finishing putty thicker than 2-3 mm. As soon as the plane dries out, sand it with emery No. 140-180, also without pressing the material to the ceiling, but only removing minor defects. The whole plane is skinned to form a rough surface, which then needs to be primed for better adhesion to the decor.

On a note! In order for putty, plaster and ceiling painting to meet the intended result, it is better to choose compositions from one manufacturer. In extreme cases, it is permissible to take paint from another company, but the first two mixtures are from only one manufacturer, so that the component composition is mutually complementary.

Ready-made plaster mixtures are offered for sale, they are useful for eliminating minor defects in the ceiling. In addition, you do not have to mix the components, which is especially difficult without a drill.
To increase adhesion, especially when working with concrete or wooden surfaces, use the Betonkontakt primer - an inexpensive series, offered in a large assortment.
If a plaster layer of more than 50 mm is applied, it will be necessary to stretch the reinforcing mesh. The material is laid out on the base, fastened with self-tapping screws. Such a mesh prevents cracking of the plaster layer, as well as the collapse of the finish from the ceiling.
For grinding the ceiling, you can use a grinder. The device is expensive, it makes no sense to buy for 1-2 times, but you can rent it.
The drying time of the compositions depends on the components of the mixture, as well as the temperature in the room. It is extremely unacceptable to speed up the drying process with drafts or the use of heating devices. This threatens to dry local areas, but poor drying of the other plane.

There are still questions, see how the ceiling is plastered for painting video from the master - all the nuances are shown in detail:

Do not forget about the process of dedusting the plane. A vacuum cleaner or a damp cloth will come in handy after each sanding. After applying the rags, the ceiling needs to be dried again, so it is easier and more convenient to use a vacuum cleaner.