Drainage device for the toilet. How is the toilet. The main types of triggers

The bathroom is visited by a person many times throughout the day. Due to the fact that a significant amount of time is spent there, the arrangement of this room, the choice of a toilet bowl and its components require a careful approach. In this article we will consider the rules for choosing a toilet tank.

What are the tanks

If you want to pick up a tank separately from the toilet, then, first of all, you should carefully study what types of such products are. There are the following types of cisterns for toilet bowls:

  • From cast iron. Differ in durability.
  • From ceramics. The most popular. Advantages - light weight, ease of installation, a huge number of different design solutions.
  • From plastic. They weigh little. Their disadvantage is low strength.


Operating principle

As you can see from the photo of toilet bowls, they can have a different principle of operation. In other words, water collection in them can be carried out in different ways.

Option 1. The fittings are located at the top of the device and are connected to the water supply from the side. The float is placed on the lever. This design makes a lot of noise. Most often used in models of domestic production.

Option 2. The toilet cistern mechanism is located at the bottom of the drain device. The float moves vertically. The method of the so-called bottom water supply is almost silent.

Drain type

Depending on the type of drain, toilet cisterns are divided into:

  • Models with bottom drain. Here, draining is carried out by pulling on a special chain attached to the tank.
  • Top drain products. Such a design solution includes a button located in the center of the drain cover. Pressing it activates the drain.

The separation of the drain button is intended to save water. This is due not only to economic benefits (less water supply costs), but also to the need to save natural resources - after all, the amount of drinking water, namely, it is used for draining, is limited on Earth.

The most popular option is the wall-mounted toilet cistern with a double flush button.

When purchasing a tank, it is preferable to opt for a model with a double button. Then for small purposes up to 4 liters of water will be spent, and if a large drain is needed, you can drain up to 8 liters.

The specifics of the cistern fittings

Before making a purchase of a toilet tank, you need to carefully familiarize yourself with the device of the drain valve. The timeliness of filling the tank with water and the quality of the drain depend on it. It consists of the following parts:

  • Drainage device. It could be a button, a gasket, a lever.
  • Pressure control lever.
  • Float. Responsible for the water level.


If desired, it is permissible to replace the reinforcement with a better one - imported.


When choosing a drain device, you need to consider the following points:

  • Type of attachment to the toilet.
  • Tank configuration.
  • Connection option to the pipeline (side or bottom).
  • The fixing hole in the drain must match the hole in the toilet.
  • The volume of drained water.
  • Design.

Remember that a cistern mounted separately from the toilet is noisier and does not add aesthetics to the bathroom. It is best when the drain tank is installed directly on the plumbing fixture. These products are quite popular. A built-in toilet bowl would be a good option. In this situation, it is mounted on the wall. Only the button indicates the presence of the tank.

The best choice would be a device with an upper arrangement of fittings. It is more durable. Drain is better to choose automatic. Another important nuance - the color of the tank should be identical to the color of the toilet.

If the water used for draining is not of very high quality, be sure to install a cleaning filter. Thus, you will extend the life of all the components of the toilet, including the cistern.

During procedures for cleaning the inner surface of the tank with cleaning compounds containing acid, it is advisable to disconnect the drain mechanism. Another solution is to use less aggressive cleaners.

Avoid touching the drain system once again.

Photo of toilet bowls

Toilet flush device: how to fix it yourself

The drain tank is broken, but there is no way to call a plumber? It's okay, because it is quite possible to repair the toilet bowl with your own hands. In this article, we will tell you the basic rules for self-repairing plumbing.

Toilet device

Before you start taking action, you need to study a little theory, and understand how the toilet drains. Any model has two main details: a bowl that stands on the floor or is fixed on the wall and a water tank on top. This container is called the "drain barrel".

At the heart of the work of draining water is the principle of a water seal. When you press the lever (button), the cork opens, and the water is washed off into the riser by gravity.

If you remove the lid on the tank, you will find a toilet flush device. It consists of a float, a seal and levers. It is conditionally possible to divide the mechanism of the toilet cistern into 2 parts: the water collection system and the drain mechanism.

When you release the button, the drain hole closes and water begins to fill. The float controls its level, and at the right time closes the tap.

Of course, depending on the manufacturer, the design may be slightly different, but the meaning remains the same.

Water collection system

The fittings that regulate the water supply can be of several types:


Bottom feed to waste tank


Push button flush mechanism
The drain mechanism is activated either by pressing a button or by pulling out the stem. The most popular is the push-button version with a lever, which is shown in the photo. In toilets with a hidden cistern, this button is located on the wall. Therefore, repairing a hanging toilet is more inconvenient - all actions are carried out after removing the button through a small hole. The video shows the process of dismantling the fittings from the built-in tank (installation).

The button mechanism can be 1 and 2 modes. There are two buttons in the two-mode drain: one drains the water completely, and the second half. This allows you to save water if necessary. Also, such a mechanism can be implemented with one button, when the drain depends on the degree of pressing.

The price of stock drain devices for Soviet toilet bowls is approximately 250-450 rubles. A set of Polish fittings Cersanit with a lower supply will cost about 650 rubles. Fittings from Vidima already cost 1250 rubles. but you can separately order a membrane for it for 300 rubles. Domestic products will cost less: you can find stock models from 100 rubles and push-button models from 200 rubles.

Preparation for repair

First of all, you need to visually inspect the internal mechanism for defects. To do this, remove the top cover. Usually it is fixed with a drain button. You need to either simply unscrew it, or pull out the button and unscrew the fastening screw.

Before you fix the toilet cistern, be sure to turn off the water supply.

Replacement and fastening of parts

After you open the lid, you will see several holes with a diameter of 1.5-2 cm for water supply (maybe only 1). In one of them, filling fittings with a membrane valve will be fixed.

The principle of its operation is simple: when the tank becomes empty, it starts the water supply, when it is full, it stops. A float is required to determine the water level. If you have little, or vice versa, a lot of water, you can adjust the desired level yourself. It is recommended to use a volume of 5-7 liters of water.

The membrane is very sensitive to water quality, so its life will depend on the water filters. If you don’t have filters at all, then it’s better to replace the mechanism with a domestic one with a stem valve.

Most often, you can solve the question of how to repair a toilet flush tank by completely replacing parts. For expensive toilets, you can find rem. set with sleeve and membrane. On cheap models, it will be more profitable to buy new fittings, they are not very expensive. The main thing when buying is to choose the desired pipe diameter, usually they are 10, 15 mm, as well as 1/3 and ½ inch.


Fitting kit for toilet repair

When replacing, you need to make a sealed joint, so put on a sealing gasket before fastening. The fittings are pulled together with a tank nut. Do not twist them too hard or cracks may appear.

Decorative plugs are inserted into the remaining free holes. If necessary, you can change the position of the water supply. If the plug is simply inserted into the hole until it clicks, and does not rest on the nut, then no seals are provided in it, so water will flow out in the event of a malfunction.

At the bottom of the tank are holes for attaching to the toilet. Fastening takes place on metal or plastic bolts. Bolts made of brass and stainless steel are best suited for fixing the toilet bowl. Ordinary metal fasteners will be stronger than plastic ones, but will quickly rust. Before fixing them, washers and rubber gaskets must be worn.

In the center is the largest hole for draining water. The shut-off valve for the drain tank is fastened with a cap washer through the gasket.

Popular cistern breakdowns

The most common failure is the continuous filling and leakage of water from the tank. The reason for this is the following factors:

  • Float skew;
  • The float mechanism does not work;
  • Loose fitting check valve, old rubber seal.

The easiest way to solve the first problem, because even repairing the toilet cistern is not required - it will be enough to open the lid and adjust the float. Also, sometimes the shut-off valve does not fit into place, it is also enough just to put it manually into the recess.

The next problem is if the water fills the tank to the limit and does not stop. To check the mechanism, lift the float up to the stop. If the water does not stop, then the float mechanism will need to be replaced.

And the last point is the old sealant. It is very simple to determine such a breakdown: you just need to press the valve with your hand. If the water stops, then the seal needs to be replaced. Also, sometimes this is due to the too low weight of the locking mechanism. In this case, you need to add weights inside to make it heavier.

Another common failure is associated with a worn float. Its tightness is broken, and it does not float well, so the water in the tank does not rise to the desired level. You will need to replace the fittings of the drain tank, but you can also fix the float with your own hands. To do this, you need to seal the hole in it with sealant, glue, heated plastic or any other material at hand. You can also look into the plumbing store, perhaps there will be an analogue of your float.

This video shows how you can repair the toilet cistern with your own hands:

Usually, repairs come down to a maximum of replacing fittings, and this can be done on your own without calling a plumber. The main thing is to choose a quality product and the right size, and then you will not be disturbed by the sound of dripping and gathering water.

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How to solder polypropylene pipes and fittings. Necessary tools for work and instructions on how to make a homemade welding machine for polypropylene.

Home » Bathroom: bathroom and toilet » Toilet flush cistern: device, installation, configuration, repair

Toilet flush cistern: device, installation, configuration, repair

No matter how high-quality the toilet bowl and fittings are, problems arise from time to time: either water is not collected, or vice versa, it constantly flows from the drain. All these problems are associated with fittings (drain and inlet valves), which are placed in the drain tank. Next, we’ll talk about how to install it, change, adjust and repair it yourself, with your own hands.

No matter how the toilet looks, the filling in the cistern will be similar

Internal organization

The toilet cistern consists of two simple systems: a set of water and its discharge. To troubleshoot possible problems, you need to understand how everything works and works. First, consider what parts the old-style toilet bowl consists of. Their system is more understandable and visual, and the operation of more modern devices will be clear by analogy.

The internal fittings of a tank of this type are very simple. The water supply system is an inlet valve with a float mechanism, the drain system is a lever and a pear with a drain valve inside. There is also an overflow pipe - through it excess water leaves the tank, bypassing the drain hole.

The device of the drain tank of the old design

The main thing in this design is the correct operation of the water supply system. A more detailed diagram of its device is in the figure below. The inlet valve is connected to the float using a curved lever. This lever presses on the piston, which opens / closes the water supply.

When filling the tank, the float is in the lower position. Its lever does not put pressure on the piston and it is squeezed out by water pressure, opening the outlet to the pipe. Water is gradually drawn in. As the water level rises, the float rises. Gradually, he presses the piston, blocking the water supply.

The device of the float mechanism in the toilet bowl

The system is simple and quite effective, the filling level of the tank can be changed by bending the lever a little. The disadvantage of this system is a noticeable noise when filling.

Now let's look at how the drain of water in the tank works. In this embodiment, the drain hole is blocked by a pear of the drain valve. A chain is attached to the pear, which is connected to the drain lever. By pressing the lever, we raise the pear, the water drains into the hole. When the level drops, the float goes down, opening the water supply. This is how this type of cistern works.

Modern models with lever drain

They make less noise when filling the cistern for toilet bowls with a lower water supply. This is a more modern version of the device described above. Here the tap / inlet valve is hidden inside the tank - in a tube (in the photo - a gray tube to which the float is connected).

Drain tank with water supply from below

The mechanism of operation is the same - the float is lowered - the valve is open, water flows. The tank was filled, the float rose, the valve turned off the water. The drain system remained almost unchanged in this version - the same valve that rises when the lever is pressed. The water overflow system has hardly changed either - this is also a tube, but it is brought out to the same drain.

You can clearly see the operation of the drain tank of such a system in the video.

Models of toilet bowls with a button have similar water inlet fittings (some with side water supply, some with bottom) and drain fittings of a different type.

Tank device with push-button drain

The system shown in the photo is most often found in toilet bowls of domestic production. It is inexpensive and quite reliable. The device of imported units is different. They basically have a bottom water supply and another drain-overflow device (pictured below).

Imported cistern fittings

There are different types of systems:

  • with one button, water is drained as long as the button is pressed;
  • with one button, draining starts when pressed, stops when pressed again;
  • with two buttons that release different amounts of water.

The mechanism of work here is slightly different, although the principle remains the same. In this fitting, when the button is pressed, a glass is raised that blocks the drain, while the stand remains motionless. In short, this is the difference. The drain is adjusted using a swivel nut or a special lever.

Installation and replacement of cistern fittings

A significant part of toilet problems are solved by adjusting or replacing the cistern fittings. In any case, you need to know how to disassemble and assemble the inside of the tank. This skill will definitely help you. When replacing, you must first dismantle the old device, and then install a new one. We will describe in detail the whole process, including the installation of new fittings.

How to remove the lid from the tank

If a drain tank with a button is being repaired, it is not always immediately clear how to remove the lid. This is easy to do: press the button, turn the ring.

How to remove the lid from a tank with a button

If it doesn’t work with your fingers, pressing the button, consider its inner rim. There are two special slots. You can take a screwdriver with a narrow end, turn the ring a little with it. Then you can already twist it with your fingers.

After that, remove the button by pulling it up. Everything, the lid can be lifted.

Tank dismantling

To replace the old fittings of the flush tank, it must be removed from the toilet bowl. First of all, turn off the water supply, then drain the water from the tank. Then, using the keys, remove the water supply hose (it is attached to the side or bottom).

With the lower location of the water supply, it is located next to the mounting studs

Next, you need to disconnect the tank from the toilet bowl. If you look under it from below, you can see the bolts that are tightened with nuts. So we unscrew them using a set of open-end wrenches or an adjustable wrench. Before that, place a container near the toilet or lay a rag - a certain amount of water always remains in the tank, when you unscrew the nuts, it will drain.

Having unscrewed two nuts - on the right and on the left, we remove the tank. There is usually a gasket on the bowl. If it is deformed or dried out, it is also desirable to replace it.

Drain tank removed from the bowl

The tank is placed on a flat surface. There is a large plastic nut at the bottom of it. It holds the drain mechanism, we unscrew it. Sometimes the first turns have to be done with an adjustable wrench, but do not overtighten it - the plastic can be brittle.

Unscrew the nut holding the drain mechanism

Now the water drain mechanism can be easily removed.

This is what the cistern fittings look like after several years of work

We remove the water supply mechanism in the same way. With bottom feed, the fastening nut is also at the bottom (right or left of center).

Nut of fastening of the water supply mechanism

This removed the water supply device in the tank

After that, we look inside the drain tank. Usually, rusty sediment, small metal particles, sand, etc. accumulate at the bottom. All this must be removed, if possible, washed. The inside must be clean - trash that has fallen under the gaskets can cause a leak. After that, we begin the installation of new fittings.

Installation of drain tank fittings

Everything happens in reverse order. First, we install a new rack of the drain mechanism. We unscrew the plastic nut from it, put a rubber gasket on the pipe. It can be white (as pictured) or black.

We put a rubber gasket on the thread

We start the device inside the container, from the outside we wind the plastic nut. We twist it, as long as possible, with our fingers, then tighten it a little with a key. You can not overtighten - it will burst.

Install and tighten the nut

Now on the toilet bowl we replace the o-ring sealing its connection with the drain tank. Dirt and rust often accumulate in this place - we wipe it first, the seat must be dry and clean.

Fitting the sealing ring

Inside the tank we install the fixing bolts, not forgetting to put the gaskets. We put the drain tank in place until it can be leveled. The main thing is to get the screws and the outlet part into the seats. We take a washer, a nut and screw them onto the screws.

When both nuts are installed, but not yet tightened, we level the container. Then, using the key, we begin to tighten the mount. We twist a few turns, then to the right, then to the left.

Lastly, install the inlet valve for the drain tank. It could have been installed earlier, but then it is inconvenient to install the mounting bolts - there is too little space. We also put a gasket on the outlet pipe, then install it inside, fix it with a nut.

Tighten the intake valve nut

The next step is to connect water to the same pipe. Before connecting the flexible hose for water, we turn on the water for a while, making it possible to remove the scale that accumulates every time after closing the tap, even for a short time. Having lowered a certain amount of water (substitute a bucket so as not to wet the floor), we connect the hose to the fitting (we turn off the water again).

Connecting water to the toilet bowl

Although the fitting is metal, it is also not necessary to tighten this connection strongly - first with your fingers, then one turn with a key. If drops are found when the water is turned on, you can tighten it another half turn. After that, we check if the system works correctly. If everything is correct, install the cover, fasten the button. You can test again. This completes the installation of the fittings of the drain tank. As you can see, everything can be done by hand.

Adjustment and repair

During the operation of the toilet, problems periodically arise - either it flows, or, on the contrary, no water is drawn into it. Sometimes, tired of the inconvenience, people buy new toilets. But in vain. Most of the faults are fixed in 10-20 minutes. Moreover, everything is so simple that everyone can handle it. You don't have to call a plumber. You can do everything with your own hands.

Water level adjustment

We are talking about devices with a lower water supply. After installation, the toilet cistern must be adjusted. By default, they come from the factory set to the maximum amount of water in the tank. This amount is often excessive. With a simple adjustment, we can reduce the volume of water in the tank. For this:

  • Turn off the water supply, drain the water.
  • Unscrew the button.
  • We remove the cover.

Where is the adjusting screw

  • There is a plastic screw on the float mechanism. Unscrewing / twisting it changes the amount of water. If it is necessary to reduce the amount of water, we tighten the screw, lowering the float down. At the next filling (you can turn on the water), the water level should drop.
  • Install the cover and button.
  • The same procedure is necessary if water constantly leaks from the tank. One reason is that the float is too high. Because of this, water flows through the overflow system.

    With a side water supply and a float mechanism, the adjustment is even easier - we change the position of the float by bending its lever. On the one hand, it is easier, but on the other hand, it is more difficult. You have to bend it many times to achieve the required level.

    By bending the float lever we change the water level in the drain tank

    Toilet cistern leaking

    If the water in the toilet is constantly leaking, and its level is normal, we move on. There are several reasons for this leak. And if so, then the methods of elimination will be different.

    • The sealing gum under the drain valve in the tank silted up, dirt got under it, a groove (or several) appeared on its surface. The method of treatment is to clean the existing gasket or replace it with a new one. To reanimate the old one, you need:
      • turn off the water, flush it,
      • remove the trigger mechanism by unscrewing the plastic nut from the bottom;
      • pull out the drain valve, remove and examine the gasket, clean it of settled particles, if necessary (there are grooves), grind it with very fine sandpaper until smooth;
      • reinstall, connect everything and check the operation.

    • The trigger mechanism itself was demolished. To check if this is the case, you can lightly press on the mechanism with the cover removed. If the leak has stopped, then that's the issue. If not, you should try to clean the gasket (described above) or replace it. If the flow stops when pressed, you can replace the fittings or weight the glass.

    Where to put weight

    To do this, remove the trigger mechanism and put something heavy in its lower part. It can be several pieces of metal, a sock filled with pennies, sand, etc. We install the device in place and check the work.

    Water is not drawn

    Another problem that you can fix with your own hands is that water is not drawn into the drain tank. Most likely it's a blockage - a filter or tubes are clogged. Long talk, better watch the video.

    Do-it-yourself toilet cistern repair

    The essential attributes of comfortable living are the benefits of civilization familiar to a person, such as ergonomic furniture, stable water supply, properly planned lighting and plumbing that works without interruption. The correct operation of all the listed equipment is taken for granted, and a breakdown almost always comes as a surprise, bringing a lot of trouble. Most often, plumbing becomes the object of increased attention of homeowners, and in order to ensure its smooth functioning, it is necessary to take care of its proper installation in advance, which implies a strong connection of pipes and hoses, serviceability of fasteners and gaskets. If the plumbing is operated for a long period of time, preventive inspections are a necessary condition for its uninterrupted operation, which will allow timely detection of fitting wear due to inadequate water quality. Timely maintenance of plumbing equipment will prevent flooding of your home and the homes of your neighbors. In the event of a breakdown of plumbing equipment, the best way out is to call a plumber who will eliminate the breakdown as quickly and efficiently as possible. If you do not have the opportunity to call the master, you can carry out an independent repair of the toilet cistern, the technology of which is not difficult.

    In order to understand the breakdown and find the most optimal way to eliminate it, it is necessary to study the theoretical foundations of the plumbing equipment and understand how the water is drained in the toilet. Regardless of the design features of the toilet, any model is characterized by the presence of two main parts - a bowl located on the floor or fixed to the wall, and a water tank located on top. It is this container that is the drain tank. The operation of the water drain is based on the principle of "hydraulic lock", which implies the flushing of water into the drain under the action of gravity when a button (lever) is pressed to open the plug.

    Differences of cisterns for toilet bowls: classification of cisterns

    The modern market for sanitary equipment offers the consumer a wide selection of various drain devices belonging to various types and types. There are a large number of varieties of drain cisterns, which can be classified according to the many features presented below.

    The location of the tank in relation to the toilet

    The traditional way of installing toilet bowls, which does not lose its relevance even today, involves the creation of a fused structure that combines the tank and the toilet bowl into a single whole. The advantage of this installation method is that there is no need to install an outlet pipe that combines the toilet bowl and the cistern.

    Despite the advantages and reliability of the traditional installation method, hidden structures and hanging toilets are gaining popularity. The first option is ideal for apartments with European-quality renovation. It involves installing a drain tank inside the wall in such a way that it becomes completely invisible. The system is started by pressing a special button located on the panel.

    Suspended structures - another newfangled way to install toilets, which involves hanging the cistern at a certain height from the toilet bowl. A feature of this design is a strong water pressure, which guarantees efficient draining. However, it also has disadvantages, one of which is the excessive noise that is created in the process of draining water. Despite the presence of disadvantages, in general, such designs are considered one of the most practical and convenient, and their appearance will be an excellent addition to the interior, made in retro style.

    The main types of triggers

    The most common types of triggers are push-button and stem drain devices, which have proven to be one of the most reliable and durable systems. Push-button flush mechanisms are most relevant for closed cisterns. Their main element is a button, which can be located on the side of the drain bowl or in the center. There are single- and dual-mode push-button mechanisms. The latter implies the presence of two buttons: one of them drains the water completely, and the second half. A similar principle of the device will save water if such a need arises. A similar principle of operation of the drain device can also be implemented using one button, if the amount of drained water is determined by the degree of pressing the button.

    Drainage devices based on levers or chains are also gaining popularity. The manufacturer prefers to place such mechanisms in the side of the drain structure. To drain the water, just pull the lever or chain. This type of drain system will be most relevant for hanging toilets. In view of these features, the repair of a wall-hung toilet cistern will be somewhat different. Regardless of the type of installation of the drain tank chosen, there is a manual trigger mechanism, which involves manually setting the volume of drained water, and automatic.

    Features of the water collection system

    There are several types of valves that regulate the flow of water:

    • Lateral water supply, assuming the location of the fittings from above, is typical for sanitary equipment from Russian manufacturers. Despite the fact that plumbing equipment equipped with this mechanism is characterized by low cost, it is not in high demand, due to the rather noisy set of water. For models that are more expensive, it is typical to use a special pipe that reduces noise, which contributes to the supply of water directly to the bottom.
    • The lower water supply is typical for models of both domestic and foreign manufacturers, belonging to a fairly high price category. Features of the mechanism of the lower water supply reduce the noise from the water to a minimum.

    Drain tank device: basic elements

    In order to correctly determine the causes of the malfunctions that have arisen and eliminate them in a timely manner, it is necessary, at least in general terms, to have an idea of ​​​​the internal structure of the drain tank. Despite the differences in the reinforcing structures of the drain tank, it is characterized by a single device scheme. The internal device of the drain tank implies the presence of the following elements:

    • Shut-off or drain valves regulate the flow of water from the cistern into the toilet and prevent it from leaking unnecessarily. In the process of filling the tank, the water in it helps to firmly press the surface of the valve to the drain into the toilet, which stops the leakage of water. Thus, if the drain tank passes water, this is due to a malfunction of the valves;
    • A filling valve, which is combined with a water supply device and designed to adjust the water level in the drain tank. When the water reaches a certain level, its supply to the tank stops. The water level indicator is a float connected to the filling valve by means of a brass rod. If the first models of drain devices assumed a lateral location of the filling valve and horizontal placement of the float, then modern plumbing models, while maintaining the traditional principle of operation, provide for the location of the filling valve at the bottom of the drain bowl, while the float is characterized by vertical placement;

    Important! Problems leading to the need to repair the toilet cistern are most often associated with a malfunction of this particular mechanism and in most cases come down to its adjustment.

    • The mechanism for draining and overflowing water, the design of which is represented by plastic fittings, equipped with start buttons. Its function is to prevent water from entering the room from the tank in the event of a malfunction of the float valve. The water overflow system, connected to the drain, comes into action after pressing the start button. Excess water is not poured out due to the connection of the drain mechanism with overflow devices, which contributes to the release of excess water into the sewer system. An important element of the system is a float valve connected to a float that regulates the water level in the tank. Malfunctions associated with the functioning of the float valve lead to water leaks from the tank.

    Important! Each of these elements can become unusable, which will lead to the need for its repair. In this regard, there is no need to consider the problems associated with damage to the body of the tank, since in practice the elimination of cracks and chips in the body is practically impossible. This is due to the inefficiency of even the most modern adhesives, which is becoming the most common reason for replacing the toilet bowl.

    The most common malfunctions of the drain tank: methods for their elimination
    Water leakage into the room: causes and methods for eliminating the breakdown

    If you notice the appearance of water in the room, most likely the reason for this is a mounting problem. In this case, inexperienced homeowners are likely to panic and, thinking about replacing plumbing, will start looking for an answer to the question: “How to install a toilet bowl and avoid its breakdown during operation?”. But do not rush, this problem is easily fixed. Consider the most common causes of this malfunction:

    • Deterioration of the sealing ring installed between the tank and the toilet bowl;
    • Violation of the integrity of the gaskets of the mounting bolts.

    All these malfunctions do not require complex diagnostics and can be detected even with a simple visual inspection. If you find these malfunctions, try to tighten the fasteners without applying excessive force, which can cause the tank to break or even violate its integrity.

    If you performed these manipulations, and they were unsuccessful, experts recommend removing the drain tank and replacing the rubber seal on the drain channel. They also recommend replacing the gaskets and washers on the mounting bolts.

    Important! To increase the density of the joints, making them more reliable, experts recommend that they be additionally sealed with silicone.

    What to do if water does not enter the tank?

    This failure is also not uncommon, and its most common cause lies in the clogging of the narrowest part of the valve. Eliminating this problem will not cause difficulties - for this it is enough to release all the water from the tank and unscrew the valve along with the lever and float. After that, you will notice a fairly narrow hole designed for water to enter the tank. To eliminate its blockage, clean it with a needle or thin wire. Next, you need to slightly unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe and flush out the remnants of the blockage that has arisen. After making sure that water flows freely through the hole into the tank, tighten the valve and set the valve with lever and float to their original position.

    Constant leakage of water from the tank into the toilet: causes and remedies for the breakdown

    The causes of this malfunction may be:

    How to eliminate? If you encounter this problem, it is enough to give the lever the optimal position for it.

    float damage. leading to the fact that he begins to pass water inside himself. This inevitably leads to its aspiration to the bottom of the tank tank, that is, the water that has got inside the float prevents it from returning to its original position, at which the flow of tap water is blocked. If this does not happen, excess water is discharged into the toilet through the overflow system.

    How to eliminate? The only possible option for effective repair, in this case, is to replace the part.

    To do this, the water is blocked along the riser, the device is dismantled, and a new, pre-purchased similar part is put in its place.

    Important! In order to repair the fittings of the toilet cistern as efficiently as possible, in the process of choosing it, experts recommend paying attention to the dimensions and design features of the parts, since some of them are not always interchangeable.

    Important! In most cases, plastic or stainless steel is used to make modern floats. Floats made from these materials are practically not subject to leakage.

    Wear of the sealing elements of the drain fittings. It is quite simple to find out whether the cause of the malfunction lies in the wear of the sealing elements. To do this, it is enough to slightly press the valve with your hand: if the water begins to flow, then you are not mistaken, the problem really lies in the wear of the shut-off valve, rubber gaskets or seal. You can fix this breakdown by replacing consumables.

    Float wear can also cause permanent leaks. In this case, a hole is formed in the float, through which the outflow of water occurs.

    Important! If you do not have the necessary parts on hand at the time of the problem, carry out a “temporary” repair. To do this, the hole formed in the float is sealed with heated plastic or the failed float is wrapped with a plastic bag, thereby sealing it. In this case, it is important not to forget to fix it around the float lever.

    Repair of a toilet cistern with a button: procedure

    How to remove the cover with one button?

    • Loosen the retaining ring around the button. In this case, it is important to avoid strong pressure on it, since plastic is used in most cases for the manufacture of rings;
    • Remove the cover and proceed with the repair.

    As mentioned above, there can be several reasons for the constant leakage of water from the tank into the toilet:

    • Incorrect position of the float - in this case, simply remove the toilet lid and adjust the float.
    • Wear of the rubber bulb on the float valve, as a result of which it does not provide tightness.

    In this case, it is necessary to replace it. To do this, fix the float in the upper position and, by unscrewing the nut connecting the tank and the drain pipe, remove the entire mechanism;

    • Remove the old pear, replacing it with a similar model with similar characteristics.
    • If the bolts holding the pear are worn, they must be replaced.
    • To do this, drain the water from the tank, removing its remnants;
    • Unscrew the union nut located between the flexible hose and the float valve, as well as the bolts. With a little effort, tilt the tank with a shelf back, releasing the rubber cuff located between the tank and the toilet;
    • Unscrew the damaged bolt, as well as its pair, and remove them. It is important to replace both bolts, even if the integrity of the second one is not yet broken. For replacement, select bolts of similar sizes made of brass or stainless steel;
    • Remove the faience under the pear saddle and thoroughly clean it by doing the same with the shelf and tank. Lubricate the bulb with silicone sealant, which will later solve problems with its wear and prevent the need to replace it;
    • After assembling the tank, tighten the structure with new bolts, while avoiding distortions. To prevent damage to fragile faience, do not apply excessive force during the assembly process;
    • Turn on the water and fill the tank, carefully watching for leaks.

    Failure of the descent lever: how to fix it?

    How to determine that in your case we are talking about this particular malfunction? It's quite simple: if you pressed the drain button, but the drain did not start, this chapter will be useful to you.

    The reason for such a malfunction lies in the violation of traction, and the only correct way out is to replace it.

    Important! In this case, you can also make a "temporary repair" by making a thick wire rod and twisting it in several layers. However, improvised traction does not have a long service life - over time, the wire will begin to bend, which will also lead to its failure.

    Before you start repairing the old toilet cistern in this case, loosen the button on the cistern lid. To do this, turn the decorative nut a few turns - in most cases this is enough to lift the cover, gaining access to the mechanism.

    Noisy filling of the tank with water: how to eliminate?

    Often, craftsmen have to face this problem, and this is especially true for owners of sanitary equipment, characterized by the presence of tanks with a side water supply. After a certain period of time, the capacity of the tank begins to fill with noise, which was not "at the dawn" of operation.

    Most often, the cause of this malfunction is the disconnection of the water silencer, which is a special tube through which water is supplied to the lower part of the tank without any noise effects.

    To eliminate this malfunction, put the muffler on a specially designed fitting.

    Toilet cistern repair with button video

    Related Articles

    W glancing into a leaking toilet bowl, another home master first scratches his head, and then calls the plumber.

    But if, without hurrying to understand the device of the mechanism for draining and filling the tank, the apparent pile of details appears simple and logical.

    Let's see how the toilet flush system works, is installed, and adjusted. Let's figure out why it fails, and try to repair this witty device.

    How does a toilet flush work?

    With a huge variety of drain systems, their principle is identical. And if you know how one model of the water drain system in the toilet works, then, after thinking, you will understand any other.

    The drain system consists of two parts.

    drain valve

    It is controlled by a lever or button brought out to the outside. The task of the drain valve is to open the way for water during flushing and to keep it securely in the tank for the rest of the time.

    In older models, with a high cast-iron tank, the drain hole was plugged with a heavy iron plug. They lifted it by pulling the chain connected to the lever. The lever, in turn, lifted the cork, opening the way for water.


    If the chain was thrown, the cork fell again, blocking the pipe. And to get the right amount of water, you had to stand next to the toilet and hold the lever.

    The inconvenience was eliminated by replacing the heavy cork with a hollow pear-shaped valve. Opening the way for water, the plug pops up, and the drain remained open until the water left. The valve descends with the water and closes the outlet again.

    The hollow "pear" is still in use, but more complex systems of an overflow tube, a rubber valve and a plastic float are used more often, working on the same principle.

    Water supply unit with float valve

    The base and here is a float connected through a lever with a water tap membrane. When the water is released by the drain valve, the float is at the bottom, releasing the membrane. Water is pouring into the tank.

    The water rises, and the float rises with it. At a certain level, through the lever and the stem, it presses on the faucet membrane, which shuts off the water supply. The tank is full of water and ready for a new flush (Fig. 1).

    By adjusting the height of the float relatively, we set the amount of water that will fill the tank. Usually 6 to 10 liters.

    Each modern house has plumbing fixtures necessary for a comfortable stay. Among them, toilet devices are of particular importance. Their high performance is achieved by improving the cistern trigger system. The flush tank is one of the main elements of the toilet, which is a ceramic bowl with mechanisms for releasing and collecting water.

    Differences flush cisterns for toilets

    The modern plumbing market offers a range of drain devices. different kinds and types. Toilet bowls are classified according to many criteria, which are presented below.

    Location

    Modern drain devices are still installed in the traditional way, creating fused design with a toilet bowl. This design is good in that there is no need to mount an exhaust pipe, which serves as a conductor between the drain device and the toilet bowl.

    Wall-hung toilets and hidden structures are gaining more and more popularity. In the first case, the tank is suspended at a certain height above the toilet. This setting helps strong water pressure which means a good plum. The main disadvantage of the suspended structure is the excessive noise generated when the toilet is flushed. In general, this design is considered very convenient and practical. The appearance of such a system will fit perfectly into the interior of a retro room.

    For apartments with European-quality renovation, the installation installation will be an ideal option. The tank is installed in the wall in such a way that it becomes completely invisible in the restroom. To start such a system, just press a special button on the panel.

    Trigger type

    The most common are drain cisterns having push button trigger. It has proven to be a reliable and durable system. Push-button descent is located in the center or side of the drain bowl. This design is always used for closed types of cisterns.

    Increasingly, they began to produce drain devices equipped with levers or chains. Typically, such a mechanism is placed on the side of the drain system. To drain the water, pull the chain or lever. This is a fairly convenient design for a hanging drain bowl. The trigger mechanism itself, regardless of the installation method, can be either manual, when the user himself sets the volume of flushed water by pressing the button for a certain time, or automatic.

    Material

    According to the material, drain tanks are divided into: ceramic, cast iron, plastic.

    Presently cast iron drain bowls practically never produced. In some houses such rarities have been preserved. They continue to be used, not wanting to replace outdated material with more modern counterparts.

    The most popular and affordable are faience cisterns, which are used for both continuous and hinged structures. Plastic bowls are used for drain systems built into the wall. Such tanks have a non-standard less voluminous shape.

    The way the mechanism works

    According to this criterion, tanks with mechanical and automatic modes are distinguished. In the first case, just press the start button. For cisterns with a mechanical lever, the principle of operation is that water flows while the user presses the button.

    The main elements of the drain tank

    Knowledge of the components of the drain device allows you to repair the tank or replace the failed parts yourself.

    • Fill valve. This is a device that regulates the level of water in the tank. A float acts as an indicator of the amount of water, which is connected to the filling valve using a brass rod. In early models of drains, the filling valve was located on the side, the float was in a horizontal position. In modern systems, manufacturers, retaining the traditional principle of operation, placed the filling valve at the very bottom of the drain bowl, and placed the float vertically.
    • Drain and overflow mechanism. The modern drain system is a plastic fitting equipped with start buttons. The drain is connected to the devices for collecting and overflowing water. When the trigger is pressed, the drain system comes into action. To prevent excess water from spilling out, the drain mechanism connected to the overflow device. Due to this, excess water goes into the sewer system. In this mechanism, a very important role is played by a float valve, which is connected to a float that regulates the water level. When the float valve fails, the water in the tank begins to leak.

    The principle of operation of the tank (one-piece construction)

    The principle of operation of the wall drain tank

    Unlike a traditional cistern, the main element of the wall-mounted cistern is siphon. It is a soft corrugated tube. A metal lever is usually used for the trigger mechanism, when pressed, water comes out through the open end of the corrugated siphon tube. Principle of operation wall-mounted cistern consists of the following:

    • When the trigger lever is pressed, the valve opens the siphon.
    • Into the hole in the siphon water flow.
    • When the volume of water in the cistern decreases level indicator (float) goes down thus opening the float valve. Through it, the tank is filled with water.
    • Water fills the container of the bowl until the float rises. Once this happens, float valve closes thereby preventing the tank from overflowing with water.

    Common cistern problems

    Thus, the choice of a drain tank depends on its material, mechanism and installation of the structure. Knowing the principles of operation of the drain device, you can independently adjust the mechanism in case of its failure or correctly install the toilet bowl in case of purchasing a new device.

    The flush mechanism itself comes complete with the toilet itself and the flush tank. However, choosing the most reliable design is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. If you correctly understand this issue even before purchasing this device, you will be able to prevent the occurrence of a number of serious problems.

    Types of drain mechanisms

    To date, two types of drain devices can be found on sale:


    In the first case, the drain is performed by emptying the entire tank, the second has two buttons in its design - they are responsible for pouring out a certain amount of water. This volume can be regulated, in addition, the use of such systems is quite justified, since water is seriously saved here.

    Despite the fact that the type of drain mechanism may be different, it functions on the same principle. A little different is the transfer of the impulse of movement to the valve, which either opens or closes the hole through which the water leaves.

    The principle of its operation depends on how this valve is arranged. Sometimes this valve is placed at the end of tubular drains that play the role of an overflow. In other cases, a similar design opens and closes thanks to special chains made of metal or plastic. The last type of design is far from the most successful, since such a system often fails.

    Depending on who is the manufacturer of this device, the design can have quite serious differences. However, all these systems can be divided into two key components:

    • Water drain system;
    • Water supply system.

    Due to the water collection system, the tank is filled. It is both lateral and lower. If the design has a bottom feed, then they are very convenient for several reasons. First of all, the main positive side is the almost silent operation, but the design of this system is very complex.

    It includes the following elements:

    • Float vertical rod;
    • thrust;

    The water supply cut-off unit begins to work due to the thrust, which is connected to the buoy into one common structure, which at the same time is a water level limiter.

    If water is supplied from the side, then this design will be more reliable, but when filling the tank it will make quite a lot of noise. Here the principle of operation of the entire system will be much simpler. There is a special membrane in the tank, due to which the supply and stop of water flow into the tank, as well as a small one connected to the supply tap by a lever.

    When the tank is filled, the float rises and the lever begins to move, gradually shutting off the water supply when the required amount of water is collected.

    Drain water from the tank from the top or side. The lateral design is used mainly for hanging cisterns, which are practically not used anywhere today. In most modern products, a drain system with an upper principle of water drainage is used.

    As a rule, the trigger structure is a pear made of rubber or rubberized plastic. This equipment is not too expensive, but it is very reliable.

    In order for water to pass from the drain tank directly into the toilet, a rod or a special button is placed on the lid, which will set the lever in motion. As mentioned earlier, modern systems for draining water in tanks can have one or two modes of operation.

    The second type has two buttons, due to which either half of the tank or a full one is lowered. This option is the most suitable for people for whom saving water is not just empty words.

    Toilet cistern installation options

    In total, there are three key methods for installing a drain tank in an apartment or private house:

    1. Under the ceiling;
    2. Connection directly to the toilet itself;
    3. Installation in the wall of the toilet room.

    Almost no one installs a drain tank under the ceiling, since for this you will need to buy the appropriate fittings. The key disadvantage of this system will be its not very convenient operation, however, water is both collected and drained under fairly good pressure. Today, this design is very rare, as it has been replaced by more attractive modern systems.

    When the tank is connected directly to the toilet itself, then this technology will have a decent amount of positive aspects. In this case, the tank will be in a fairly convenient position - in case of need for repair work, you will not have to think about how to get to this device. It is also very convenient to control the tank, monitor whether everything is in order in it, and so on.

    If the tank is planned to be installed in the wall, then you need to remember that this is a very time-consuming process. Of course, from an aesthetic point of view, this will be the most profitable option, since a tank of this kind will be almost invisible, in addition, using this solution, you can seriously save usable space, which is not enough in the sanitary unit.


    Adjustment, repair and replacement

    Like any other design, the drain tank can break. There are quite a few causes of breakdowns, but some of them can be eliminated by yourself.

    Malfunctions in the operation of the drain mechanism

    If the drain mechanism has become unusable, this may be due to the following points:

    1. The intake valve is already very worn;
    2. There was a warping of the rocker arm;
    3. The buoy began to work incorrectly.

    The buoy is constantly in the water, because of which, during prolonged operation, cracks begin to form in it. This leads to water infiltration. Accordingly, the float begins to sink. To save yourself from this effect, the easiest way is to change this part.

    If the lever is deformed, then it should be returned to the correct position, which should be approximately 2 cm below the hole from where water enters the tank.

    The shut-off valve may simply not be able to handle the high water pressure, so you can just install a float valve.

    Replacement

    It is not too difficult to replace any part in the cistern. Here it is only important to do the preparatory work:

    • Shut off the water;
    • Empty the sump.

    After that, you can start working. Usually the float fails. It is held on the lever with a special clip. It will need to be unfastened and the float will separate from the structure. Instead, they put a new float and carefully turn on the water to establish whether it is securely held on the surface or not.

    Changing the entire drain mechanism is also not too difficult - it is held in the tank by only two bolts that need to be unscrewed, and the mechanism will be easily removed. When installing a new structure, make sure that it is as tight as possible.

    When installing the tank directly, it is best to first place all the appropriate fittings in it, check that it does not touch the walls of the tank there. Only after that you can install the tank in place, not forgetting to lay a special rubber sealing ring between it and the toilet to protect against leaks.


    When installing a new structure, make sure that it is as tight as possible.

    Adjustment

    Usually the volume of incoming water is regulated, making sure that it does not overflow through the system and does not go into the toilet. To do this, the float is placed so that it is about a couple of centimeters lower than the edge of the reinforcement.

    • Spare parts for the toilet should be of high quality;
    • When purchasing gaskets, it is advisable to take silicone products - they are very durable and reliable, they will not dry out from time and water, like rubber.