Do-it-yourself loggia insulation methods. Internal insulation of the walls of the loggia: which material is more reliable. The algorithm for warming and finishing the loggia in the video

This material should be of interest to all apartment owners who have a private balcony or loggia. In this article, I want to talk about how simple insulation of a balcony with your own hands will help make it a full-fledged part of your apartment. If you are tired of using your balcony solely for storing old unnecessary things, read the article and find out how to properly insulate it.

What is the difference between a balcony and a loggia

So that in the future no one will be confused, first I want to explain how the loggia differs from the balcony:

The balcony always protrudes forward, beyond the vertical walls of the building. As the floor and ceiling of the balconies, there are interfloor concrete slabs, which have a cantilever fastening to the facade of the house. A vertical fence (parapet) is usually made in the form of a welded metal structure, which is installed in front and on the sides of the balcony;

The loggia is always recessed deep into the facade. Structurally, it is a continuation of the dwelling, however, it is separated from it by a solid outer wall with a balcony door. The floor and ceiling for the loggia are interfloor ceilings, and the side walls are made of monolithic concrete or brickwork. The parapet on the loggia is installed only along the front, and can be made of welded metal or light building materials (foam concrete blocks, hollow bricks, etc.).

Why you need to insulate the loggia

In old high-rise buildings, apartments with balconies and loggias were rented out to residents without glazing at all. This means that snow and rain can freely get there, and the air temperature throughout the year remains the same as outside.

Apartments in modern new buildings, most often rented with glazed balconies. Glazing helps to protect it from rain and snow, but does not protect it from the penetration of cold, wind and dampness. Therefore, the temperature and humidity on a glazed but uninsulated balcony does not differ much from the weather outside.

I can say from personal experience that the simultaneous glazing and insulation of balconies with your own hands allows you to solve several housing issues at once:

An insulated and glazed loggia can be used not just as a pantry for unnecessary trash, but as a full-fledged room in your apartment. Moreover, when paying for utilities, you still pay for it as for living space;

When summing up electricity and centralized heating, it is possible to equip it with a study, a small home workshop, a children's playroom, and even your own greenhouse or winter garden;
If you want to increase the usable area of \u200b\u200byour living room or bedroom, and are ready to sacrifice a balcony for this, then I suggest doing the following:

First of all, we qualitatively insulate the balcony, and install a panoramic window with double-glazed windows;
Next, we supply centralized or autonomous heating from the apartment;
We dismantle the old window block and balcony door;
Now it remains to combine your room and balcony into a single living space.

The following offer should be of interest to owners of one-room apartments.

If the layout of your house allows, then due to the balcony or loggia, it is easy to turn a one-room apartment into a two-room apartment:

First of all, you need to carefully insulate the loggia, and install double-glazed windows;
Then bring heating, sewerage and water supply pipes to the loggia;
Install a sink, plumbing fixtures and a minimum set of kitchen appliances;
In the former kitchen, equip a living room, nursery or.

Even if you do not plan to convert the balcony into a living room, then its insulation will help to significantly reduce heat loss in your apartment. Firstly, in winter, this will make the house much warmer, and secondly, it will reduce monthly heating and air conditioning costs.

Choice of thermal insulation materials

To insulate balconies, it is best to use rigid polymer-based heat-insulating materials, or mineral wool-based roll insulation.

Both those and other materials for insulation have their advantages and disadvantages, so further I will talk about their main qualities in more detail:

Styrofoam is a rigid sheet insulation, which is made from expanded polystyrene granules welded together.

It is characterized by the following characteristics:

Structural foam sheets are usually 1000x1000 mm in size, and can have a thickness of 10 to 150 mm;
They have sufficient rigidity, have very low thermal conductivity, and absolutely do not let air and water vapor through;
Styrofoam is considered the cheapest insulation, since its price is about 150-200 rubles per sheet 1000x1000x50 mm in size.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS or Penoplex) has similar performance properties, but has a much higher rigidity:

Penoplex sheets are able to withstand a significant weight load, so I advise you to use it for floor insulation;
XPS and foam are destroyed by ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, they should not be left in direct sunlight for a long time;
For the same reason, it is desirable to carry out a fine finish no later than a week after the installation of the insulation.

Foam polyethylene foam (Penofol) is sold in rolls 1000 mm wide and 3 to 12 mm thick. Penofol is most often used as an auxiliary heat and waterproofing material. It is laid in the form of a layer between the main insulation and the internal decorative lining.

Penofol in a heat-insulating coating performs three important functions at once:

By itself, polyethylene foam has a low thermal conductivity, therefore it serves as an additional insulation;
A thin mirror film of aluminum foil reflects the infrared spectrum of thermal radiation, so it returns radiant heat from radiators back to the loggia;
The polyethylene film absolutely does not allow water vapor to pass through, so warm, moist air from the room cannot penetrate into the thickness of the main insulation. This protects it from condensation.

Basalt or stone mineral wool is a soft fibrous insulation that is made from interwoven thin fibers of molten rocks.

Basalt wool is considered a universal type of insulation, since it has practically no restrictions on its use in construction:

Mineral wool is sold in rolls or in the form of rigid slabs with a thickness of 20 to 100 mm;
It has a low heat transfer coefficient, absolutely does not burn, is not subject to mold formation, and has an unlimited service life;
Stone wool passes air and water vapor well, however, when wet, its heat-insulating properties deteriorate significantly;
In order to prevent the formation of condensate inside the insulation, mineral wool must be installed in combination with a waterproofing layer.

In addition to stone wool, glass wool is commercially available, which is made from thin strands of molten glass. Its fibers are very fragile and break easily, so after crushing, such cotton wool does not restore its shape. I do not recommend using it for insulation of residential premises, because small glass fibers can penetrate a person's skin and cause severe irritation.

Instrument preparation

To insulate the balcony with your own hands, you can get by with the usual set of household tools:

To drill holes in concrete, you will need an electric hammer drill and a set of drills with a diameter of 6 to 12 mm;
Holes in brick walls can be drilled with an impact drill. To do this, you need a set of drills with a pobedite tip with a diameter of 6-12 mm;
In the process, you will need to tighten a large number of screws. Therefore, I recommend using a cordless screwdriver with PH2 and PZ2 interchangeable bits;
It is more convenient to cut the bars for mounting the crate using an electric cutting machine, but if it is not there, then you can use a regular hand saw for wood;

For cutting insulation and cutting cladding panels, you will need a sharp construction knife with a set of interchangeable blades;
From hand tools, you will also need two hammers weighing 200 g and 400 g;
Two flat and one curly screwdriver;
Small and large pliers or pliers;
Building level, plumb line, metal ruler and tape measure at least 3 m long;
Polyurethane foam in large metal cylinders;
In addition to the insulation, from the materials you need to purchase dry wooden bars for the manufacture of a carrier, with a section of 60x60 mm;

Glue for insulation. It is sold in the form of a dry mortar, and is prepared directly at the place of work;
Wide aluminum metallized adhesive tape for ventilation systems;
Plastic dowels with wide washers for fixing insulation. In the people they are often called umbrellas or parachutes;
Depending on your preferences, moisture-resistant drywall, plastic siding panels or clapboard boards can be used for interior decoration of the balcony. In my opinion, plastic siding is best suited for these purposes..

During the night and day hours, significant changes in air temperature can be observed on the insulated balcony, which in turn can lead to the formation of condensation on the walls and ceiling. Therefore, for interior finishing, it is allowed to use only moisture-resistant and frost-resistant materials.

Warming process

Stage 1: strengthening the balcony parapet

Insulation of the balcony from the inside should begin with the installation of windows, but in some cases this may cause problems. During the construction of multi-storey buildings, balcony parapets are usually made in the form of a light metal fence, welded from a corner and a steel square. It is unsafe to mount heavy double-chamber balcony glazing on such a parapet, therefore, before installing new windows, it must be strengthened.

I can suggest three ways to strengthen the parapet:

To strengthen a strong and reliable balcony railing in new homes, you can use a simpler method:

Along the entire perimeter of the parapet, weld additional longitudinal beams from a profile pipe with a section of 40x20 mm, or from a steel corner with a section of 40x40 mm;
To the longitudinal beams, on each side, weld brackets with mounting plates made of steel with a thickness of at least 4 mm. Each plate should have two holes with a diameter of 12 mm;
The existing metal structure must be additionally fixed at several points to the concrete floor slab, as well as to the facade of the building or to the side walls of the loggia. For fastening, expandable anchor bolts must be used;
Tie all metal railing rods together with a truss structure made of a reinforcing bar with a diameter of 12 mm, or a profile pipe 20x20 mm. Weld the extreme ends of the truss to the mounting brackets;
After installing the glazing, the outside of the parapet can be sewn up with decorative plastic siding panels.

In old houses of the Soviet period of construction, the parapet can be unreliable and very flimsy.

From the inside of the balcony, build a new parapet of foam concrete blocks or hollow baked bricks;
In places where the new parapet adjoins the facade of the house or the side walls of the loggia, install anchor embedded structures, at least 3 pcs. in height;
From above, fix the common railing from a wide board with a thickness of 35-40 mm. It must completely overlap both parapets, and protrude outside and inside the balcony, at least 50 mm on each side;
An old metal fence, sewn up with plastic siding panels for beauty.

If your balcony railing is in disrepair, it is best to dismantle it immediately and install a new parapet in its place.

To do this, you can use the following method:

Along the perimeter of the balcony floor slab, lay out a new parapet of hollow brick or foam concrete blocks;
After each row of foam concrete blocks, or after every third row of bricks, along the entire perimeter of the parapet, a reinforcing metal mesh must be laid in the masonry;
The free ends of the strapping must be welded to the anchor brackets on the facade of the house or on the side walls of the loggia;
On top of the end of the parapet, fix a wide railing board so that it protrudes outward and inward of the balcony by about 50 mm;
Outside, the brick parapet must be plastered with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh, and painted with acrylic facade paint in any suitable color.

Installation of metal-plastic double-glazed windows requires certain knowledge and practical skills, so I recommend entrusting such work to qualified specialists in this matter. Firstly, it is more reliable and safe, and secondly, they give a guarantee for their work. In addition, when ordering windows with installation, you can get a discount on installation work.

Stage 2: flooring installation

Balcony floor slabs usually have a small thickness, therefore, before installing a fine floor covering, it must be insulated with high quality.

Floor insulation can be done with foam panels, extruded polystyrene foam sheets or mineral wool slabs.

The general principle of using these materials is approximately the same, so I will tell you how to do this using the example of foam sheets:

The concrete floor slab must be cleaned of construction debris, dried well, and covered with two layers of heated rubber-bitumen mastic;

If you use mineral wool as a heater, then for waterproofing you need to lay a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane or perforated plastic film on the slab;
Fasten wooden bars (logs) with a section of at least 60x60 mm to the floor along the balcony. The extreme bars must be laid close to the parapet, and to the wall in the apartment, and between the middle bars to maintain a distance of 300-400 mm;

In the gaps between the bars, lay foam panels tightly without gaps. If small gaps remain between the foam sheets, they must be filled with mounting foam;
On top of the insulation and longitudinal beams, lay a waterproofing of foil-foamed polyethylene foam (Penofol);

Penofol must be laid so that its foil side is facing up, and its edges should be bent onto the side walls, 60-100 mm on each side;
To provide a ventilation gap between the finishing floor and Penofol, wooden counter slats 15-20 mm thick must be nailed to the longitudinal bars;
On top of the counter rails, you can fix a fine floor covering. For arranging a wooden floor on a balcony, you need to use a grooved floorboard 40 mm thick.
You need to lay the floorboards across the balcony, and fasten it to the logs using galvanized self-tapping screws..

If you want to lay linoleum or laminate on the balcony, then you first need to equip the subfloor. To do this, it is necessary to fix sheets of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB with a thickness of at least 20 mm to the longitudinal bars. After that, the rough floor must be sanded, and a fine floor covering should be laid.

Stage 3: thermal insulation of the parapet and side walls

For normal thermal insulation of the balcony and loggia, it is very important to insulate the parapet and side walls with high quality, because they are in direct contact with cold air from the street. The main wall between the apartment and the loggia can not be insulated so that it freely passes heat from the heated room to the loggia.

Below is a step-by-step instruction in which I will talk about the insulation of walls and a balcony parapet using polystyrene foam and mineral wool:

Before starting work, all concrete and brick surfaces must be treated with an antiseptic penetrating primer. It fills the open pores between the particles of the material, and protects the wall from the formation of mold under the insulation;

Mount a supporting frame on the wall for fastening the finishing inner lining. It is made in the form of a crate of vertical bars with a section of 60x60 or 75x75 mm.
On the walls, the bars should be placed vertically, from the floor to the ceiling.. The extreme bars are installed at the corners of the balcony, and the intermediate bars are attached to the side walls, at a distance of 300-400 mm from each other.
It is more convenient to make the supporting frame for the parapet from three or four horizontal bars. The lower beam must be fixed to the parapet at floor level, and the upper beam must be fixed under the railing board. Mount one or two intermediate beams at an equal distance between the upper and lower bars;

When making a supporting frame, I advise you to lay electrical cables, heating pipes or other hidden communications along the walls in advance;
If you plan to insulate the balcony with foam, then it must be cut into separate plates. The width of each tile should be such that it fits snugly between two adjacent bars of the supporting frame;
Next, you need to prepare the adhesive solution. Apply several large dots of glue to the foam sheet, and press it against the wall in the gap between the frame bars;
Thus, you need to glue the foam on all the walls and the parapet of the balcony. If large gaps and cracks remain in some places, they must be blown out with mounting foam;

Wall insulation with mineral wool has some differences:

Before mounting the supporting frame, waterproofing must be fixed to the wall from a vapor-permeable membrane;
For fastening mineral wool, instead of glue, you need to use plastic dowels, better known as "umbrellas".

After installing the foam or mineral wool, Penofol must be fixed to the wooden bars with the foil side inside the balcony. To do this, it is convenient to use a furniture or construction stapler;
On top of Penofol, wooden counter rails 20 mm thick must be fixed. They will be used to fasten the inner skin;

If you plan to use drywall for finishing the walls and ceiling, then the counter rails must be mounted vertically, parallel to the batten bars;
For mounting clapboard boards or plastic siding, the counter rails must be located horizontally, in four or five rows. The distance between them should be no more than 500 mm;
At the end of everything, you will need to finish the walls and parapet, and at the junction of each wall and floor, install a wooden or plastic plinth.

In the manufacture of a supporting frame for finishing sheathing, some craftsmen use a metal profile for drywall. At first glance, this option may seem simpler, but I do not recommend doing this. The fact is that metal has a higher thermal conductivity than wood, therefore, at the installation site of metal profiles, cold bridges form in the wall. They worsen the thermal insulation of the balcony, and can cause condensation in the insulation layer.

Stage 4: insulation of the ceiling

If you plan to install a separate heating system on the balcony, then we must not forget that the warm air from the radiators always rushes up. In order not to heat the neighbor's balcony from the top floor, I advise you to pay special attention to the thermal insulation of the ceiling.

The gap between the visor and the floor slab must be blown out with foam.

The concrete slab should be treated twice with a water-based penetrating antiseptic primer.;
Before installing the thermal insulation material, a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane must be fixed to the ceiling. It is needed so that moisture from the ceiling does not penetrate into the insulation;
On top of the waterproofing, fix longitudinal wooden bars with a section of 60x60 mm or more. The two extreme bars should be located at the very corners of the ceiling, and intermediate bars should be installed between them in increments of 300-400 mm;

The insulation cut in width must be laid between the bars. It cannot be glued to the waterproofing membrane, therefore, for fastening it is necessary to use plastic dowels "umbrellas";
To fill the gaps between the foam plates, you must also use mounting foam;
If warm, moist air from the room enters the insulation, condensation will form there. To prevent this from happening, a vapor barrier made of foil-foamed polyethylene should be nailed to the bars on top of the insulation;
Penofol must be attached to the ceiling in such a way that its edges fall on each wall by at least 80-100 mm;

To ensure the tightness of the vapor barrier, all joints of the panels and mounting brackets from the stapler must be glued with metallized aluminum tape;
Further fine finishing of the ceiling is carried out in exactly the same way as described in the previous section (points 11-14):

Nail longitudinal or transverse counter rails to the ceiling bars;
From below, fix the finishing decorative sheathing (gypsum board, lining or panel siding);
Carefully trim the hanging remnants of Penofol;
Install a decorative cornice or plinth around the perimeter of the ceiling.

Even with full observance of the insulation technology, condensation may form inside the heat-insulating sheathing. To protect wood from decay and mold, it is important to follow two simple rules. Firstly, all wooden parts must be treated with antiseptic impregnation before installation. Secondly, between the finishing sheathing and the insulation, always leave a ventilation gap 15-20 mm wide.

Conclusion

After reading this article, you can easily insulate any balcony or loggia in a city apartment without much difficulty. A visual guide to the insulation of balconies can be viewed in the video in this article. All your questions and wishes, I propose to discuss below in the form for comments.

If the apartment or house has a balcony, then you should definitely use it, as this is an additional, and sometimes just a necessary area. If you approach the issue with imagination and think through all the nuances, you can get a small, but very cozy room. In order for the balcony to serve as a room, it must be insulated. How to insulate the balcony inside is decided by each owner independently, taking into account their financial capabilities and urgent needs. But a few words should be said about the nuances of the process and the materials used to insulate the balcony. It is necessary to choose these materials very carefully and pay attention to all the characteristics.

It is necessary to begin the development of any balcony with an objective assessment of its condition. If the apartment is located in a new house, recently handed over to residents, then you need to pay attention to the material from which the balcony structure is made. Also in new houses, it is necessary to pay attention to what the balcony of the neighbors is trimmed with. Often in such houses, neighbors try to adhere to a single style.

We make masonry from foam blocks

But if the balcony is located in a far from new apartment and has always been used as an open space, then work will have to start with balcony reinforcements. Strengthening is understood as the reconstruction of the concrete platform of the balcony, and the strengthening of the metal handrail. Also, such an event as strengthening the lower part of the upper balcony can be included in this process, this should also be taken into account. After resolving all these issues and choosing the material for the exterior cladding of the loggia (balcony), you can proceed to the interior decoration. To simplify this stage, you can lay out a wall of bricks or foam blocks up to half of the balcony, directly to the double-glazed windows. This will save on insulation.

Tip: If all stages of insulation are carried out at the same time, then it is better to immediately install double-glazed windows in the windows, since one glass gives heat loss in cold weather by 70% more.

Preparing for insulation

To start warming the balcony inside with any materials, you need to prepare. Having chosen the material for insulation, it is necessary to create a special wooden crate under it, on which it will then be attached. The exception is rolled materials that can be mounted under the crate. This frame is made of beams with a cross section of about 4-5 cm. The transverse and perpendicular beams must be fastened so that squares of 50 by 50 cm are obtained. Also, the crate can be made of a metal profile, but this material is somewhat more expensive than wooden bars. The main advantages of a metal frame are the ease of construction and ease of use.

Note: When calculating the necessary insulation for a balcony inside, it is necessary to take into account not only the dimensions of the walls, but the floor and ceiling, since these two positions also need to be insulated.

Material selection

A heater is laid in the crate on the inside of the balcony, which can be:

Styrofoam insulation is one of the most common ways of thermal insulation of balconies and loggias.

Styrofoam. The cheapest of these materials is plain white foam, 5 cm thick. If the room is insulated in cold latitudes, then you can take a thicker foam, it can reach a thickness of up to 10 cm. It can be easily cut into the required number of parts, and you can not strengthen anything additionally, but immediately lay the crates in the cells for finishing materials. The material is absolutely safe both when working with it and during subsequent use. The insulation is completely odorless, does not emit toxic substances, and styrene fumes in small quantities do not affect people's health. The installation of the material occurs without the formation of dust.

Warming with mineral wool

mineral wool. Mineral wool is a little more expensive, but its noise insulation performance is much higher, so if you need to get rid of extraneous sounds, it is better to use it. This material is completely natural and completely fireproof. The combustion temperature of mineral wool starts from a thousand degrees. The inconvenience of laying mineral wool briquettes lies in the obligatory observance of safety measures. The material in its composition contains small particles of glass, which cause itching of the skin. It is necessary to carry out installation in protected special clothing, goggles and a respirator.

Expanded clay. The material is an environmentally friendly insulation. The word "expanded clay" is translated from Greek as "burnt clay". The material is often used for floor and ceiling insulation. It is not entirely profitable for them to insulate the walls, since in addition they need to prepare a metal mesh as a support.

The installation of high-quality double-glazed windows plays a big role in the insulation of a balcony or loggia. - you will find the answer here.

Penofol. This material is one of the heat-insulating means that has a reflective effect. Represents a layer from the made foam self-extinguishing polyethylene with the closed air pores. Coated with high quality aluminum, 14 microns thick and 99.4% pure on one or both sides. Penofol is a universal material with steam, hydro, wind, and soundproof properties. The material has the appearance of a thin, flexible, light and environmentally friendly structure. It can be used as an additional vapor barrier, it is very convenient for them to work, as it is sold in rolls and can be easily cut even with ordinary scissors. This material protects the room from moisture from the outside and saves the room from condensation.

Penoplex. It is a new material specially developed for warming rooms. The material is very easy to install due to its low weight, so its use on the balcony is now relevant. It is produced in the form of rectangular plates of different thicknesses, which are easily cut with a clerical knife. It is also possible to produce "sandwich panels" by pouring. Insulation with a rough surface makes it easy to attach and glue them to other materials.
Izolon
Izolon. It is also a versatile material in terms of use. Confirmed safety in use as a heater and vapor barrier element. Excellent soundproofing characteristics.

The degree of thermal conductivity is compared:

with 15 cm brickwork

with 4.5 cm wood

with 4.5 cm mineral wool

with 1.2cm styrofoam

Reduces noise by at least 18 dB.

These are the basic materials for creating an insulating layer, which are now easy to find in any hardware store. We hope you now have more information about how to insulate a balcony from the inside and then we'll see how to do it.

How to insulate

One of the best methods for laying insulation is layered laying:

Surface waterproofing first.

The next layer is the selected insulating material, which is also fastened with appropriate fasteners. It can be nails, self-tapping screws, plastic fasteners with wide caps.

Then a vapor barrier is laid, which is fastened with a construction stapler.

At the final stage, a finishing material is attached to the crate using special fastening materials.

Styrofoam sheets are installed in the crate, and the joints are smeared with mounting foam
You should get a layer with a thickness of approximately 60 - 70 mm, this is the distance from the outer layer to the finishing one. Depending on climatic conditions, this size may vary. It must be understood that any layer of insulation requires financial costs and labor, so it is better to immediately make a balcony in good conscience and not try to save on trifles.

In a situation with floor insulation on the balcony the sequence is also the same. If it is decided to fill the floor with concrete, then first expanded clay is laid and a solution is distributed on top of it. The concrete solution must be carefully distributed with a special rule and try to make the surface as even as possible. Then ceramic tiles or other finishing materials can be laid on such a surface. Under the final finish, you can lay rolled heated floors, and this will give additional warming to the room.

A video instruction for self-assembly of a plasterboard ceiling is available at this address

If the option of a wooden floor is chosen, then first the guide logs are laid, between which the insulation is laid. Then a finishing board or chipboard is laid on the logs. Laying chipboard is necessary if further installation of laminate or linoleum is carried out. It is also worth noting that under the laminate it is necessary to lay special substrate, which will provide additional thermal insulation. When the walls and floors are finished, skirting boards are installed that hide the joints of the finish.

In the complex of works on the insulation of the balcony, attention must be paid to the ceiling. The process of insulation is carried out in the same way as the walls and floor. The task will be complicated by the moment when the balcony or loggia is on the top floor and there is no ceiling. In this case, you need to take into account the additional costs for the installation of the ceiling and roof.

When working on the insulation of the balcony, one should not fuss and rush, this can lead to an unreasonably large consumption of material. If you approach the matter with attention and carry out constant calculations, then you can get a full-fledged additional room for little money.

How to insulate a balcony from the inside video

We invite you to watch a video on the topic of our article “Insulation for a balcony inside - choose materials”, which shows in detail the entire process of insulating a balcony using penoplex and penofol.

A balcony or loggia is an unheated room in an apartment. Therefore, they are a source of heat loss from an apartment or house. Even a well-glazed balcony lets in a significant amount of heat.

To avoid this, the balcony or loggia is insulated from the inside. It should be noted that there are different approaches to warming this type of room.

The type and method of warming the balcony and loggia depends on:

intended purpose:

the balcony is not intended for storage, they are insulated in order to reduce heat loss from the room. In this case, work is carried out according to a scheme similar to outdoor heating. That is, only one side of it, adjacent to the wall of the room, is insulated;

the balcony is for storage. Insulated around the perimeter of all surfaces. Since there should not be a high temperature here, the requirements for heat-insulating materials are not particularly high;

balcony, which is a continuation of the living room or serving as an office, library, gym, etc. In this case, heat loss through windows and all surfaces is eliminated. And as the materials used, heat insulators with high density and considerable thickness are used. Particular attention is paid to the thermal conductivity of the material and the rules for its installation.

heating budget. It determines both the type of insulation, and the area of insulation, and further finishing. It also determines whether to entrust the work to professionals or to do the insulation of the balcony with your own hands;

season. Low temperatures can withstand any kind of insulation. But solutions, adhesives and foam must be used taking into account the ambient temperature. As a rule, "winter varieties" are more expensive. And the duration of work in winter is more significant;

Consider ways to insulate a balcony using various heaters and give some important practical tips on how to make the insulation of a loggia more efficient. We will proceed from the fact that it is necessary to qualitatively and inexpensively insulate the balcony on all surfaces inside - walls, ceiling and floor.

Insulation requirement:

light weight. In order not to weigh down the balcony, which is much lower in strength than the loggia;
small volume. In order not to occupy the useful living space of a balcony or loggia;
low cost;
safety. Fire and environmental;
opportunity to do the work yourself.

Insulation for balconies and loggias - types and properties

If you have not yet decided what is the best way to insulate a balcony or loggia from the inside, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with popular thermal insulation materials. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages, which are in characteristics, cost and installation methods.

Styrofoam

Durable, dense material that does not support combustion well. Resistant to moisture, has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Styrofoam

Dense heater. It has the lowest thermal conductivity, light weight, high strength and low cost.

Basalt and mineral wool

Soft insulation. Works due to its structure. Fibers arranged in a chaotic manner contain air, which does not allow heat to penetrate through the cotton wool. Working with cotton wool, you need to create an additional frame.

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

Sprayed insulation. The material is good because it does not allow moisture to pass through, makes it possible to adjust the thickness of the insulation and allows you to get a coating without seams. And this, in turn, eliminates the appearance of cold bridges.

Penofol

multilayer material. The polystyrene backing keeps the heat in, and the aluminum screen, which is like a thermal mirror, allows the heat to be reflected inside the house. Can be used on its own or in combination with other heaters.

Expanded clay

Bulk heater. It has a porous structure, thanks to which it retains heat well. Used for floor insulation.

Using these materials to insulate balconies and loggias, you can additionally provide good sound insulation (provided that they are glazed with plastic windows).

A mandatory accompanying attribute when insulating from the inside with most of these materials is a vapor and hydrobarrier film or a superdiffusion membrane. It is designed to protect the insulation, especially soft from getting wet and condensation.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands - step by step instructions

Clearing the premises. It is impossible to do quality work if you have to constantly move things from place to place.

Crack sealing. We assume that high-quality double-glazed windows are installed on the windows. In any case, there are gaps between the balcony and the wall, at the junction of the ceiling and the floor. So they need to be repaired using foam, sealants or solutions. Slots of considerable size are sealed with pieces of foam.

Balcony / loggia waterproofing. Needed to keep water out. Moreover, it can enter through micropores in concrete. For this purpose, a deep penetrating primer can be used.

In the case of using cotton wool, it is necessary to install a waterproofing film. It is fastened with an overlap and secured with tape.

Installing a heater. There are two methods here:

frame method. In this case, you must first equip the frame from antiseptic-treated wooden boards or galvanized profiles. Boards are more popular because they are cheaper and allow you to adjust the thickness of the frame. The most commonly used beam is 50x50. A heater is inserted into the formed cells.

Frameless method. More preferable, but only suitable for rigid insulation. This is due to the fact that the material of the frame with the frame method remains not covered with insulation. That is, wood or metal serve as cold bridges and conduct heat well. Therefore, in the vast majority of cases, rigid heaters are mounted without arranging the frame.

Laying penofol, vapor barrier film or superdiffusion membrane.

Floor insulation is in progress.

The final stage is the decorative finishing of the balcony or drywall.

Insulation of the balcony and loggia with mineral wool

The cotton wool is laid so that it fits snugly against the elements of the frame, but is not “rammed”, i.e. no need to further compact it. From this, the structure of the mineral wool will change and part of the air will evaporate. This will reduce the thermal insulation properties of wool. In order for the cotton wool to hold securely on the wall, and especially on the ceiling, it must be additionally fixed using wire or umbrellas (dowels with a wide cap).

Mineral wool fixed with "umbrellas"

Sometimes cotton wool is brought behind the frame, as shown in the figure. Then the elements of the frame are held by cotton wool. However, professionals do not recommend using this approach for low-density wool (less than 50 kg/m3), since wool held in only a few places will settle over time, exposing part of the wall to cold air.

Cotton wool is covered with a vapor barrier film. Then the counter-lattice is stuffed. It allows you to protect the wool from touching the finishing material and avoid the appearance of a dew point in this place.

In more detail, the stages of installing cotton wool are presented in the diagram.

floor base
floor joists
frame
Basalt wool
Vapor barrier film
Control grille
Finishing material

Insulation of the balcony with polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam

Rigid insulation is also placed in the frame sections and fixed on foam or special glue. The insulation is not laid close to the frame, but with a gap of 5-10 mm. The gap is subsequently blown out with foam, and the foam sheet is additionally attached with a plastic dowel - an umbrella (fungus).

Fastening foam plastic in a frame way

Fastening polystyrene foam in a frame way

The foam sheets are tightly pressed against each other, and the joints are blown with foam.

Expanded polystyrene sheets are joined according to the "groove-comb" principle.

The sputtering method stands apart in this group. Such heat-insulating material as polyurethane foam is applied to the wall precisely by spraying. Relatively new material on the market is quickly gaining its fans among professionals and amateurs. Because it allows you to perform insulation without additional preparation of the base. The high speed of work execution - less than one day - also speaks in favor of the PPU. Among the disadvantages are the high cost and the inability to do the work yourself without special equipment.

Firstly, reliable protection of the insulation from moisture;

Secondly, additional internal insulation;

Thirdly, the foil reflects 90% of the heat back. What is very important for a balcony or loggia, which, by law, cannot have their own heating sources.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communication, high technologies, computer equipment, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I did not dwell much on highlighting the question of how best to insulate the loggia from the inside. But the right choice of thermal insulation material is the key to the effectiveness of the events.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions that I give below will tell you how to choose the right material for insulation yourself.

Requirements for heaters

Before telling you how to insulate the loggia inside with my own hands, I want to give a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what is worth paying attention to:

Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, for the thermal insulation of the room (whether it be a separate loggia or combined with the main room), you will have to use a smaller layer of material. So, more usable area of the room will be saved.
Ease of installation. The more complicated the procedure for installing the heat-insulating material you have chosen, the longer and more laborious the repair process will be, especially on your own. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate the loggia from the inside. If you need, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
Strength. It is better to choose a heater that tolerates external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, the subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the heat-insulating cake. In addition, air vapors, which are formed as a result of human activity, can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, fungus and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have an optimal ratio of cost and performance. And then you yourself choose what material is better to perform insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's start the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - polystyrene foam or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. It turns out some kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I will briefly describe the main technical characteristics of the material:

Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W / (m * K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you get for work.

I'll warn you right now. Do not confuse foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are relatives, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional building foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulation layer.

Therefore, the insulation of the loggia with foam plastic from the inside requires additional measures to be taken to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation is different with water absorption. When in contact with liquid, the foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate much from this, therefore it is not necessary to carefully waterproof the insulation layer.

Strength. For insulation, building foams are used that meet the requirements of DIN 7726 and are classified as "rigid". That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when a dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of the loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose a method of decorative finishing that would simultaneously protect the insulation layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of the foam is largely dependent on its density. But with an increase in density, heat-preserving properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam for internal insulation is 25. You can also buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is already an unjustified waste of money.

Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, and mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bituminous resins, cement and lime mortars, asphalts.

However, I myself saw how the foam “melts” when some varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances get on it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care of its thorough protection.

Sound absorption. If you want the insulation layer to act as a sound insulator at the same time, then you will be disappointed with the foam. It is able to protect a little only from impact noise, and even then, if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Other noises that are transmitted through the air, the foam does not jam. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves do not absorb.

Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the United States finally proved that biological life on the surface of expanded polystyrene is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and fungus.

As for the issues of environmental protection (for some, this is very important), everything is also fine here, since the use of freon, which is harmful to the ozone layer of the planet, was abandoned in the production of insulation. In addition, the foam itself serves for a long time without losing its performance properties. And regardless of the number of cycles of freezing and thawing.

However, the insulation in question is subject to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

benzene;
toluene;
formaldehydes;
methyl alcohol;
acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

Fire safety. According to the current Russian standards (GOST under the number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth flammability classes. In other words, they are very dangerous when viewed from this point of view.

When choosing a heater, pay attention to what standards the expanded polystyrene is certified. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most combustible material is wood, but they do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed during the ignition of the foam.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive studies. And buy polystyrene foam, which contains flame retardants (it is marked with the letter "C"). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just takes a longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite it.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to the foam, it continues to be a rather combustible material. Therefore, if you are going to arrange a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, flame retardants disappear over time.

Lifetime. Subject to the foam installation technology (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you do not make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of a warming elk. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam board 30 cm thick, then the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not so, because a thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a dwelling. Among other things, this method of installation allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I kind of summarize everything that has been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

For internal insulation, I advise you to purchase polystyrene foam with the PSB-S marking with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances, but not for construction.
Sometimes manufacturers label the foam with the number "40", which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the package or provided separately at the request of the buyer.
Buy foam produced by extrusion (should be listed in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece from it. If you see balls at the break point, which are also easily separated, then you have packaging material in front of you. Styrofoam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedrons, along which a fracture occurs.
If we talk about specific manufacturers, then I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

I recently used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And he chose the material of a domestic manufacturer for work - foam plastic. That's why I'm going to talk about it in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States of America about half a century ago. The essence of the technological process is as follows: expanded polystyrene granules are placed in a chamber where they are melted under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto the conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foams are used, that is, substances that, when heated, emit gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene tape is cut into slabs and packed in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

polystyrene;
ground perlite;
sodium bicarbonate;
lemon acid;
barium stearate;
tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of foams in the production of foam gives the latter a porous structure, like foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly interconnected into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are isolated from each other, so they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this whole structure has greater strength than classic expanded polystyrene (styrofoam).

The exact technical characteristics of the penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and dimensions of the plates. Accordingly, they must be used for insulation of various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some of the parameters:

Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex, this figure is approximately 0.03 W / (m * K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing heaters. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, it is not necessary to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the upper layers of the insulation are impregnated, which positively affects the integrity of the material.
Vapor permeability. The material does not pass moisture vapor dissolved in the air through itself. Therefore, the surfaces finished with foam are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
Compressive strength. This parameter is at a height, which is achieved due to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate floors on the loggia (laying the insulation under the cement screed). If a significant force is applied to the insulation, a dent with a depth of no more than 1 mm may form on the surface.
Environmental friendliness. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it releases a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freeze and thaw cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia and even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a method of decorative finishing.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it easier for you to choose the right variety, I will give the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial tanks with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is not very durable, therefore it can only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish when ignited.
Penoplex 35	Material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of the loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture resistant insulation. It is used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience a large static and dynamic load. On the loggia, it can be used to warm the floor.
Penoplex 45C	Self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for thermal insulation of industrial and commercial facilities.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex has its own names. I will give a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cu.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	It is used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of foam is very durable and able to withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	It is used for insulation of attic rooms. The insulation has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subjected to a constant load.
Comfort	25-35	Material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high humidity.

If you ask my opinion, then I would advise using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged crate.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from a volcanic mineral - basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the vicinity.

Now basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a melting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. Then the mixture enters the drum, where it is blown by a jet of air and rotates. The result is fibers with a thickness of 7 microns and a length of about 5 cm.

After that, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I will tell you the most important thing about this heater:

Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, wool, although it does not overtake penoplex, is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient is from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

In order for you to understand what is at stake, I will compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to build a wall of ceramic bricks with a thickness of 1 m 20 cm. Silicate brick will need even more - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate inside the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor) increase their thermal conductivity, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take exactly basalt wool, and not from glass fibers. Do not confuse. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the building envelope. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg / (m * h * Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such a heater, a comfortable microclimate for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the heat-insulating material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which is very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST under the number 30244 and SNiP under the number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when warming residential premises.

Soundproof properties. Unlike expanded polystyrenes, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are arranged randomly.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces the reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of the basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this indicator does not decrease depending on the operating time.

Nevertheless, it is impossible to install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend equipping the crate, on which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova), which are specifically designed for insulating floors under a cement screed.

Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and fungus do not start inside the insulation layer and on its surface, insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia in the country. Unlike foam, which mice love to chew on.

Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together with phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to assure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized when heated at the stage of production of basalt wool. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of a person.

Material disadvantages

So that you do not get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for warming the loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

high cost of insulation;
the presence of seams in the insulation layer, which make it leaky;
the possibility of the formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers in the process of working with it;
high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the necessary information to choose the right insulation for the thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

Many residents of apartment buildings face the problem of lack of square meters. An excellent solution to this issue can be self-insulation of the loggia. This is a painstaking task, requiring certain construction skills and time from the performer. However, the end result is worth it. A warm balcony expands the possibilities of using the space, “ennobles” the living space and can become the pride of the home master.

The need for insulation of the loggia

Each apartment owner decides for himself how to use the additional square meters of the loggia. Some equip a pantry or workshop on the balcony, others operate the premises more rationally - they create a "winter garden" or a separate room. The insulated loggia can be converted into a cozy place to relax, work, a compact gym or an area for children's creativity.

In addition, the insulated balcony solves a number of problems:

the heat loss of the room and the cost of heating the apartment are reduced;
reduces the risk of mold on the walls of the balcony.

You can perform external or internal insulation. Obvious advantages of the external method:

the usable area is not “eaten up”;
simplification of interior wall decoration.

A significant advantage of internal insulation is the ability to perform work independently without hiring workers.

The choice of thermal insulation material

As a heater, various thermal insulation materials are used, ranging from traditional, inexpensive, to modern high-tech ones. To insulate the loggia from the inside, it is better to use thin, lightweight materials. Thanks to their small width, it will save usable space.

Consider the characteristics of the main heat-insulating materials for warming the loggia / balcony.

Foil polyethylene foam - a layer of foil is applied on one side of the polyethylene, which reflects the IF radiation and “throws” heat flows back. Insulation characteristics:

roll width - 1 m, thickness - 2-5 cm;
ease of installation - the polyethylene foam sheet is easily cut with a knife;
laying method - end-to-end or overlap;
the efficiency of thermal insulation is almost doubled;
the material is used to insulate the ceiling and walls.

Loggia insulation: step by step instructions. The use of penofol

Mineral wool has good thermal insulation qualities and affordable cost. However, experts do not recommend using this material for warming the loggia for a number of reasons:

poor moisture resistance - mineral wool absorbs liquid, so you will have to further strengthen the waterproofing;
when using mineral wool, natural ventilation is required - a gap must be left above the insulation, which “hides” the balcony area a little;
for facing the loggia, it will be necessary to reinforce the wall and carry out additional measures.

Styrofoam - foamed plastic of various densities. The bulk of the material is gas. Polyfoam has the following characteristics:

plate size - 1 * 1 m;
insulation thickness 2-10 cm;
foam density - 15 or 25 kg / sq. cm;
durability.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is a modern heat insulator that resembles polystyrene, but has a stronger structure and functionality. Expanded polystyrene properties:

rectangular slabs 1200*600 mm;
thickness - 2-10 cm;
foam density - 35-45 kg / sq. cm;
vapor tightness;
frost resistance;
plates have a chamfer for more dense laying;
light weight and easy installation;
flammability class - G-1;
the material is not used in open places where UV rays penetrate.

Do-it-yourself loggia insulation: step by step instructions. Photo of installation of penoplex

Methods for fixing insulation

The choice of insulation method, first of all, depends on the heat-insulating material used and the further wall decoration.

Insulation under putty and plaster is suitable when using foam or polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation panels are glued to the base with tile adhesive. Plates are additionally fixed with dowel fungi. You can start plastering / puttying the walls or ceiling one day after the installation of the insulation.

Foiled polyethylene foam is laid under the base of the frame. It does not matter how the profiles are attached - to the wall or by means of U-shaped fasteners. Penofol sheets are applied to the ceiling / wall of the loggia and fixed with rails. In this case, overlapping is acceptable, and the connecting strip can be glued with adhesive tape.

Insulation under the base of the frame is possible only when using a thin insulation up to 20 mm thick. Pressing a thicker heat insulator will affect the stiffness of the rails and fasteners

If it is planned to line the balcony with plasterboard or PVC, MDF panels, then it is advisable to lay the heat-insulating material in the frame cells. 15th density foam or mineral wool is used as a heater. The disadvantage of this technology is an increase in the thickness of the heat-insulating "pie".

Options for arranging a "warm" floor

The technology of floor insulation on the loggia is somewhat different from the thermal insulation of hay and the ceiling. Excessive requirements are imposed on this element of the balcony.

There are several basic options for arranging a "warm floor":

Do-it-yourself loggia insulation: step by step instructions

Below is a step-by-step instruction for warming the loggia with penoplex.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

foam boards;
building level, clerical knife, marker;
PVC pipes for cable laying;
capacity for mixing glue;
construction mixer;
trowel;
polyurethane foam;
mounting gun;
grater for grinding heat-insulating sheets;
plastic smooth grater for grouting the floor;
metal grid;
sand concrete M300 coarse-grained;
polyurethane adhesive.

Loggia insulation: step by step instructions. Photo - diagram of the heat-insulating "pie".

Preparatory work

First of all, it is necessary to install energy-saving plastic windows on the loggia. It is not worth saving on glazing - it is better to choose double-glazed windows and fittings from firms that have proven themselves in the "window" market.

If high-quality windows are already installed on the balcony, then you can proceed to the insulation of the balcony.

Preparatory activities:

Ceiling insulation

Installation of heat insulator on walls and parapet

Insulation of the loggia floor with penoplex: step by step instructions

Consider the stages of creating a "warm floor" using foam and cement-sand screed:

If it is necessary to install a supporting frame, it is better to use a galvanized metal profile. Unlike wood, it does not rot and is not heavy.
Thermal insulation work should be carried out in dry weather. Many adhesive mixtures and primers have features of application in conditions of high humidity.
Slots on the loggia are treated with foam that is resistant to low temperatures.
The wood used must be dried, and then treated with means against fire and decay.

Do-it-yourself loggia insulation: step by step instructions. Video.