If you bought a bath project or drew it yourself with your own hands, then most likely you thought over the layout of the rooms (layout). The number of partitions, of course, depends on the number of rooms. There are at least two of them in the bath: a steam room and a washing room. Partitions can be made immediately during the construction of a frame frame from the same material as the walls (beam, log, brick). But you need to keep in mind that under such a partition you need a foundation the same as for the main walls, which in turn will lead to a significant increase in the cost of the bath. The process of building such a partition is no different from building walls. 
After construction, such partitions must be well caulked for better noise and heat insulation, and openings can be cut through only after the entire frame has subsided. If a rounded log or glued laminated timber is used to build a partition, then such a wall does not require additional interior decoration. 
The easiest and most inexpensive way to make partitions in the bath with your own hands is to use frame construction technology. To do this, you need to purchase bars 50 by 100 mm, for the frame itself, insulation based on rock-mineral wool, vapor barrier and the actual finishing material, such as lining. Before the installation of the partition, the floors in the bath should already be done. We mark the location of the wall on the floor and fasten the lower bar to the floor with long screws (102 mm) or nails (120 mm), on which the vertical bars will rest. 
We nail or fasten a vertical rack to the wall according to the level from one and the other side of the wall, leaving a gap of five centimeters on top for the top bar. We put the upper beam on the vertical bars and fasten it to the ceiling beams with self-tapping screws. Thus, in the future, when installing the following vertical racks, we will not have to constantly control the vertical of the wall, but simply attach the racks to the upper and lower beams. 
Now we mount the vertical beams of the doorway and fasten them with galvanized corners. The following vertical beams must be placed at a distance of one centimeter less than the width of the insulation for a tighter fit. A standard insulation has dimensions of 60 cm by 100 cm, which means that the distance between the beams must be 59 cm. You should not make a larger distance between the bars, as this will reduce the strength of the partition. Vertical beams can be attached to the upper bar using galvanized metal corners or using 150 mm nails. To avoid cracking of the beam when fastened with a self-tapping screw or a nail, it must be drilled with a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the fastener (self-tapping screw or nail). 
After mounting the frame, we tightly stretch the vapor barrier on one side of the wall and make a crate for mounting a lining or other finishing material, such as drywall. For the crate, a lining sawn along or sawn along an edged board is suitable. A width of five centimeters is enough for a crate bar. Now you can put insulation in this case 10 cm thick, or in two layers of 5 cm, but in this case it is necessary to overlap the joints. When laying the insulation in the bath with your own hands, you must use personal protective equipment and use a respirator. We close the insulation with a vapor barrier and make a crate. Do not use oilcloth or cellophane instead of vapor barrier, as this can lead to wetting of the insulation from condensate, which will form in the bath from temperature changes. The side of the partition that is in the washing room can be sheathed with moisture-resistant drywall and ceramic tiles or mosaics can be laid on it. From the side of the steam room, the partition must be sheathed with clapboard not made of coniferous wood, as it contains a lot of resin. To finish the steam room in the bath, lining made of linden or abash is suitable. 
For a rest room, an ordinary pine lining or block House is suitable. Sometimes the walls in the steam room are additionally covered with foil material, but this is only necessary for longer heat retention. If it is good to caulk and insulate the bath outside on your own, with your own hands, then the heat will not go anywhere for a long time, and the tree will “breathe” better.
Part of the partition in the bath near the stove is best made of brick. 
To do this, you need to pour a concrete base, which you can do with your own hands on wooden beams. A wall thickness of half a brick will be enough. When laying bricks, it is necessary to monitor the vertical and horizontal walls. Completely making brick walls in a wooden bath is not worth it. These are high material costs and a full-fledged foundation is needed for such a wall.
All the necessary communications are easily placed in wooden partitions: electrical wiring, water pipes. Partitions in a wooden bath should be made of natural material such as wood.
A bathhouse is a fire hazardous building with high humidity, so many nuances must be taken into account when building it. During the construction process, it is important to comply with the accepted norms and standards for the installation of functional elements of the structure. The wooden, brick or foam block partition of the sauna stove plays an important role - it separates rooms of different functionality and ensures the safety of those who are in the steam room. The choice of design and material depends on many factors, including the specific conditions of construction.
The arrangement of the bath and the purpose of the partitions
Back in the days of Ancient Russia, it was customary to regularly bathe in a Russian bath. The procedures raised the tone, gave strength, gave a boost of energy and vigor. In modern times, every owner of a country house is concerned about the issue of healing and disease prevention, for which many owners decide to build a steam room.
When buying a stove for a bath, you need to not only consider the ratio of the power of the device and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room. It is equally important to choose the optimal place for its installation. The heater can be positioned in the following ways:
- In the center of the bath. This is the best option for quickly and evenly warming up a room with a large area.
- Near the bearing wall of the building. This location of the stove or heater is often used in practice, as it allows you to effectively heat the steam room.
- Near the barrier. It can separate the stove from the steam room or be placed between the steam room and the dressing room. It is necessary to pay special attention to the waterproofing and finishing of the partition.
The last 2 types of installation of partitions in baths are more common, as they allow you to heat directly from the dressing room and place the heater in the steam room. The internal walls of the building must be erected, taking into account the style of interior design and the location of the load-bearing walls.
An important criterion for choosing the material from which the partition will be made is the features of the room - area, number of rooms, and others. The main role in shaping the performance characteristics of the bath is played by the material that was used in the construction of the bath. The internal walls of the building can be made of the following materials:
- wood;
- drywall;
- concrete;
- brick.
Useful information! The process of installing a partition in a bath or sauna has many features. For example, a partition near the stove is often made of concrete or brick. The steam room is usually separated from the rest room by a wooden wall.
If a metal stove is used in the steam room, which is melted from the dressing room, then the best option is to install a brick partition, and it is better to build it from fireclay blocks. If the stove will be heated in a steam room, then the wall can be made of wood, but in this case it must be sheathed with non-combustible material.
Partition of the stove for a bath: types and features
Depending on the material from which the structure is built, the partition can be made of brick, timber, boards or foam blocks. If the building is made of a frame or a log house, it is better to use a tree, and a brick is best for arranging a brick bath. Consider which do-it-yourself sauna stove partition is the most optimal and safe to use.
Even a small bath is divided into 2 rooms for different purposes: a dressing room and a steam room, which is usually combined with a shower room. When arranging a bath room, it is important to consider the type of heater that is installed in the steam room:
- If there is an iron stove in the bath, then it is better to install a partition of a frame structure or from boards. To ensure fire safety, it should be more than 10 cm from the stove.
- If it is a traditional brick oven, it is considered a partition wall in itself. In this case, it is enough to report it by building walls.
Useful advice! For the installation of a brick partition, experts recommend using not silicate, but red brick. This reliable and durable building material is characterized by high moisture resistance and thermal insulation.
Partitions in a wooden bath
Wooden steam rooms include the following designs:
- Bath from the rounded felling.
- Frame-shield structure.
- Profiled log building.
In a log cabin bath, you can design a partition that is unique in design and easy to use. For this, the technology of building a 5-wall log house is used. This method of arranging a bath should be carried out by professional specialists and requires significant costs.
Useful advice! If you are going to heat the bath irregularly, experts do not recommend making internal brick partitions in wooden buildings. Wood and brick have different thermal conductivity, in the cold season it will take a lot of time to heat the brick wall inside the room.
If desired, you can build partitions between the steam room and the sink from the same material that decorates the outer walls of the building. The walls inside the room do not need to be protected from the influence of atmospheric phenomena, moreover, if you use a similar material of a smaller cross section, then there will be problems at the junction. Therefore, partitions inside the bath are often created using frame technology. A reliable frame partition in a brick bath can be built using boards, beams and insulation. Stages of work:
- For interior walls, you need to find boards of a certain size. They should be 3-5 cm thick and about 10-15 cm long.
- At the first stage, the boards are stuffed onto a pre-assembled solid frame of beams, laying a layer of insulation between them. It must be waterproofed.
- If foil is used in the steam room, then it must be attached to the inner wall.
- At the last stage, the installation of the crate along the partition from the boards and the sheathing of the structure with clapboard is carried out.
If you plan to install a metal stove in the bathhouse, which will be heated from the dressing room, then the best option is a partition made of refractory fireclay bricks. It is done more often in 2-3 bricks in each direction from the metal stove. According to safety requirements, the height of the partition should be up to the exit of the chimney from the room or up to the ceiling.
If the stove will be heated in a steam room, then a wooden partition can be made. At the same time, it is necessary to sheathe it with non-combustible building materials, and the furnace must be installed at a distance of more than 1 m from the structure.
Partitions in block baths
Some owners of country houses build baths from foam blocks - an environmentally friendly cellular material made from cement, sand and water and sand. What should be the partition of the stove for a bath if the structure is built of blocks? Condensation will constantly settle on a brick and stone wall, which must be removed. Therefore, experts recommend using frame technology, due to which the room will heat up faster.
Professionals advise using magnesite sheets instead of a regular board, which are also suitable for creating partitions in a log bath. Magnesite panels are made from cellulose fibers and perlite. These are non-combustible building materials that perfectly tolerate high humidity. In terms of strength, durability and moisture resistance, magnesite is better than OSB boards. Rooms with talcomagnesite finish look especially aesthetically pleasing.
Magnesite panels are mounted on both sides on vertical profiles, and insulation is laid between them, which must be protected with a waterproofing layer. Any material can be used as a finishing sheet, for example, lining. If the partitions are without insulation inside, then they are made into 2 boards, 30-50 mm thick. An air space is formed between them, which performs an important warming function.
Useful advice! If you decide to use brick, it is better to build a heating shield for the stove. In this case, the brick will not only heat up from the surrounding air, but will be able to pass the heat of the stove and give it to the bathhouse, effectively heating the room.
Professionals advise to fix brick partitions, taking into account the following nuances:
- It is necessary to insert trimmings of reinforcement with a cross section of 6.8 mm into the main walls of the building, while the second end of the bar must enter the seam of the brickwork.
- The width of the furnace partition must be at least half a brick, and every 2-3 rows of masonry must be additionally reinforced with steel wire.
- If you build a brick partition in an eco-friendly wooden frame, this can be done when the building settles. To take into account the ongoing shrinkage of the log house, it is necessary to connect the partition to the main walls through a board inserted into the gash.
Regardless of the partition in the bath, it will be affected by high humidity, and this effect will be negative. You can increase the period of operation of the building by laying waterproofing materials. The waterproofing layer is laid before the installation of finishing materials. Most often, kraft paper or foil is used for this.
After the partition in the sauna stove is installed, it is recommended to fix reflective material on it, directed to the main room. In this way, the maximum amount of thermal energy can be concentrated in the building. There must be a ventilation gap of 15 cm thick between the finishing lining of the partition and the layer of waterproofing material.
To make your own steam room with a sauna stove partition your own is an achievement that will allow you to enjoy useful bath procedures for many years. In order for the stove to be installed correctly and to exclude the possibility of a fire in the building, it is enough to follow simple rules and safety requirements. Then your steam room will become a favorite and safe resting place for your family members, relatives and friends.
When erecting a private bath, it is necessary to take into account many nuances, norms and standards that determine the specifics of the installation of various functional elements of the structure. The article will discuss how to make partitions in the bath with your own hands, so that the bath is not only efficient and comfortable, but also safe to use.
Creating partitions in the bath
It is important to create internal walls in a building not only in compliance with the style that was chosen for interior design, but also taking into account the placement of load-bearing walls. The material used during their installation (laying) also plays a crucial role in the formation of performance characteristics.
When choosing a material, many questions often arise, but in fact, the determining factor is the location of the walls that will be created from this material.
The most popular materials are:
There are many features during the installation process. For example, the partition in the bath near the stove is made of concrete or brick. At the same time, the steam room is separated by a wooden wall.
Features of the walls in a chopped wooden bath
Chopped baths are mounted from wood of various species. Such structures are assembled using frame-panel technology (read: “How to make a shield bath - from the foundation to the roof”). Experts strongly do not recommend laying brick partitions in wooden baths. This is especially true for those baths that will rarely be melted.
The degree of thermal conductivity of wood and brick varies, and therefore it will be very difficult to heat a bath with brick partitions, especially when it is cold outside. The partition does not have to be solid. It can be assembled from several materials, but it should be borne in mind that it will be very difficult to fix elements with different sections together.
As you know, everything is known in comparison, but in fact a brick partition in a wooden bath has performance characteristics worse than the one that was built using frame technology.
What walls are combined with a stone bath
In brick baths, the same material is not always a guaranteed solution to the problem. Experts say that frame partitions in a brick bath are ideal. The advantage of this combination of materials is that the brick collects condensate on itself, for which it will be necessary to equip a moisture removal system.
But at the same time, the wood frame will be protected from moisture. Recently, magnesite boards have become much more popular than a regular board. The same material can be used in a wooden bath.
Description of frame partitions for a bath
If we are talking about which partition in a brick bath can be used, then the most popular option would be a framed inner wall. Its frame is assembled from well-dried wooden bars measuring 5x5 centimeters (standard). Heat-insulating material is laid in the voids between the elements of such a structure. Usually, mineral wool or foam boards are used as insulation.
We must not forget that the insulation must be reliably protected from moisture. To do this, it is carefully covered with polyethylene. You can also use special membranes with waterproofing properties, which, according to their characteristics, are several steps ahead of polyethylene, but they also have an appropriate cost.
After the frame is insulated, it is necessary to sheathe it using a dried board with a thickness of 2 centimeters or more. A foil layer is fixed on top of these boards. You can use a construction stapler when working. Foil is the determining layer in the matter of thermal energy conservation. To be more precise, it will redirect heat radiation inside the bath. Penofol and a number of other materials that can be used instead of foil have a similar effect.
The last stage of work is the decorative finishing of the frame partition. By tradition, lining is used for these purposes. The most comfortable conditions in the bath can be created by finishing it with aspen or linden clapboard. Such a choice in favor of deciduous trees is quite natural, because resin is not released from them when heated.
Under the installation of the lining, slats are stuffed in the form of a standard crate. All wooden elements of the frame structure must be treated with antiseptic agents. Without this condition, it is simply impossible to hope that wood under the influence of moisture will last for a long time. If the optimal protection of wood is not taken care of, then fungus and mold will soon appear on it.
Structurally, such a partition is a cake made of building materials, which looks aesthetically pleasing on the outside in the photo and during visual inspection.
Distinctive features of the frame partition:
- increased strength;
- high level of sound insulation.
As practice shows, the frame partition provides a high temperature in the bath and maximum comfort for visitors. If a partition is mounted between the steam room and the sink, then the heat-insulating materials must be of the highest quality and it is worth laying them without sparing. By creating partitions between the steam room and technical rooms, you can mount a simpler design.
The design is simplified due to the fact that it is assembled from boards with a thickness of 4 centimeters or well-dried bars. The frame is sheathed with clapboard, and each gap is insulated with foam, which provides the highest level of thermal insulation.
Partition wall insulation rules
When creating partitions in the bath with your own hands, it is important to take care of preserving the maximum amount of thermal energy inside the room. To cope with this will allow a competent procedure for thermal insulation of the entire structure.
Brick partitions are most often finished with modern insulation boards using the following fasteners:
Usually the installation of partitions ends with a small gap left, which is filled with mineral wool.
As for how to make partitions in the bath using frame technology, a number of nuances must be taken into account. The main one is the increased thermal conductivity, which determines the low resistance of wood to loads.
Directly inside the bath, the walls are insulated with mineral wool, on which heat-insulating material is additionally laid. For this purpose, jute or reed slabs are usually used. The facing material in this case is a multi-colored lining. The material looks aesthetically pleasing and looks original, both in the photo and during visual inspection.
The insulation itself must be laid just very carefully so that there are no gaps and swellings, which will make the surface more airtight. However, even with the most correct installation procedure, it must be borne in mind that the bath microclimate will gradually destroy the structure.
Whatever the partition between the steam room and the washing room or other rooms, high humidity will constantly affect it and this effect will be negative. It is possible to increase the service life of materials with the correct installation of waterproofing materials. The waterproofing layer is laid before the installation of finishing materials. Usually, foil or kraft paper is used as a waterproofing material.
In no case can only be laid in the design of the partition. Although this material is a good protection against moisture, when heated, various harmful substances begin to be released from it, which negatively affect the human body.
If you process brick partitions in a bathhouse near the stove, then reflective material must be fixed on them, which will be directed towards the room. This will allow more heat energy to be concentrated in the building. Between the waterproofing layer and the finishing lining of the partitions, a ventilation gap of 15 centimeters thick must be observed.
Unique building material - magnesite slabs
Magnesite slab is an excellent material, the use of which in the construction of partitions is due to a number of positive qualities:
- resistance to fire;
- water resistance;
- ease of installation work;
- low cost.
The production of the material is carried out on the basis of perlite and cellulose. Plates are mounted on profiles that are fixed vertically. At the ends of the plates, heat-insulating material is laid in the joints, covered with a waterproofing layer or impregnated with special substances to increase water resistance. Fine finishing can be done using lining or other finishing materials.
Someone does not prohibit the creation of partitions without laying the middle layer of insulation. In this case, a double board is used. It is important to achieve a total thickness of both rows of partitions of at least 3 centimeters. Thermal insulation functions will be performed by an air gap between two rows of boards.
Installation is carried out as follows:
- a frame is assembled from profiles;
- inside it is filled with magnesite slabs;
- polyethylene or foil material is applied as an additional protective layer;
- at the end, the entire structure is sheathed with clapboard.
If we make the partitions ourselves in the bath near the stove or next to other rooms, we can make sure that all the proposed action algorithms, material selection criteria and practical advice lead to the achievement of an excellent result.
Also, all stages of work can be entrusted to specialists who will take responsibility not only for installation, but also for the selection of the necessary materials, as well as the subsequent commissioning of the bath premises.
Partitions in the bath with your own hands: how to make brick, frame and magnesite partitions in a wooden bath near the stove, we make bricks between the steam room and the sink, photo and video
Partitions in the bath with your own hands: how to make brick, frame and magnesite partitions in a wooden bath near the stove, we make bricks between the steam room and the sink, photo and video
How to make a partition in the bath?
Bath is a building in which a person has a rest. It can consist of several rooms (steam room, small room, wardrobe, bathroom, shower room). If the bath is being rebuilt, then all rooms are divided at once.
In the case when the bath is done indoors, and you need to divide the room into a steam room and a room, then it is necessary to put down partitions. The partition material can be processed beam.
How to make partitions in the bath?
Partitions in the bath are made in order to separate the premises for their intended purpose. The steam room is separated from the main rest room, as well as a wardrobe and a bathroom. Partitions can be done from a wooden bar, a brick, a metal profile.
The most reliable material for partitions is a brick. Such partitions have high strength, resistance to mechanical stress. The only difficulty in laying brick partitions is mixing the mortar, preparing the bricks, and plastering the surface.
So this way turns into hard work. In addition, after installing the partition, it takes time for the solution to firmly set, until it dries completely.
The most common way to install a partition in a bath is wooden beam. A frame made of timber will allow you to quickly mount the base of the partition. Frame jumpers are installed every 50 cm.
First, a guide bar is installed at the top and bottom, and then jumpers are attached. The space between the beam fill with insulation(basalt wool, mineral wool), then a layer of foil reflector is laid. After installing the insulation elements, the frame is sewn up with a wooden clapboard made of hardwood (linden, aspen, cedar).
How to insulate the partition in the bath?
Insulation of the walls of the bath is an integral element of the design of partitions and walls. Bath insulation necessary to maintain the existing temperature in the steam room.
As heaters are roll elements of mineral wool, basalt wool, expanded polystyrene squares, polyurethane foam rectangular plates.
The most reliable of the heaters for the internal partitions of the bath is polyurethane foam. It is, accordingly, the most expensive. It consists of a two-component substance that allows you to keep the heat in the room as much as possible and prevent the ingress of cold from the external environment.
The cheapest way to insulate partitions in the bath, is mineral wool. It is sold in a roll and fits tightly between the partitions. Mineral wool is not very suitable for rooms with high humidity. More often use ecowool with a special coating.
Also used for vapor barrier foil mineral wool, which is laid on the insulation and attached to the frame.
How to process a partition in a bath?
After the construction of the bath, it becomes necessary to treat with protective equipment. For the premises of the bath, there are always characteristic temperature differences. Especially if the bath or steam room is located indoors at home.
These are ideal conditions for the reproduction of fungi, the spread of mold and other wood decay processes. In this regard, all surfaces of the steam room and baths in general need processing.
Treatment of the bath rooms is carried out using antiseptic substances. In general, there are many means and substances with which all surfaces are processed, including shelves, deck chairs, and other sauna attributes made of wood.
When processing a bath can be used:
- Acrylic protective agents and coatings;
- Before purchasing lining or deck chairs, you need to ask about the material. The ideal option for a bath there will be one that is dried in special chambers. It is less susceptible to various insects and wood bugs that spoil the tree;
- Spirit solution of wax. This processing method is considered the most environmentally friendly;
- The most affordable funds processing: impregnations and oils on a natural basis. Such substances completely exclude damage to the materials of the steam room due to exposure to temperature changes;
How to make, insulate and process a partition in the bath?
Bath is a building in which a person has a rest. It can consist of several rooms (steam room, small room, wardrobe, bathroom, shower room). If the bath is being built anew, then all the rooms are separated immediately. In the case when the bath is done indoors, and you need to divide the room into
The nuances of building a partition in the bath
When building a bath, when you do everything yourself, you need to take every step with responsibility. The partition in the bath is considered very important. For the competent implementation of the division of the common internal space, partitions are selected in accordance with the design and interior of the building. This also takes into account the material from which the load-bearing walls are made.
Plan-scheme of a bath with partitions.
When construction begins with your own hands, an important question arises: how to use the material to mount the partitions in the bath? The location of the wall plays an important role in the selection of material.
A brick or concrete partition is placed in the bath, where a metal furnace is mounted. For a steam room, it is much preferable to make partitions from wood.
Partitions in a wooden bath
Basic technical properties of various tree species.
These baths are built from different types of wood. Their assembly is carried out according to the frame-panel method.
Professionals do not advise making partitions in the bath itself, if it is made of wood, brick. Especially when the furnace will be made sporadically, several times a month.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity of wood and brick is very different, therefore, it will take a lot of time to heat the brick walls in the bath, especially when it is cold outside. It is not necessary to make a partition between rooms from the same material. When a similar material with a smaller cross section is used, there will be difficulties in attaching the connecting nodes. The best option for internal partitions in the bath will be the device of the frame system.
Stone bath walls
How to make an internal partition if brick has become the material for the wall in the bath. According to experts, frame technology is most suitable for this. The room will heat up much faster. The brick wall will attract condensate to itself, which will require additional layering.
Boards in recent years have been replaced with magnesite sheets. I must say that such sheets can also be used to install a partition in a bath made of logs.
Frame partition
Such a wall is most convenient in a wooden bath. First, a frame is assembled, made from well-dried wooden blocks. Usually they are chosen in size 50 × 50 mm. The free space between the bars is closed with thermal insulation. It can be made from:
Scheme of the frame partition.
- mineral wool;
- foam boards.
In order to reliably protect the heat-insulating layer from moisture ingress, it is covered with a plastic film. Much better than PV films are special waterproofing membranes. They are very often placed during the construction of attics. But the cost of such a membrane is several times higher than the cost of the film.
After insulation, the entire structure is upholstered on each side with a dry board, more than 20 mm thick. Foil is “targeted” to these boards inside the steam room. As a tool, a furniture stapler is used.
Foil is an excellent reflector. It successfully reflects, in addition to light, also heat waves. The foil can be replaced with penofol or other material capable of reflecting thermal radiation.
During manufacture, the reflective surface must necessarily be directed to the heat rays emanating from the pair compartment. In this case, the heat-insulating layer with its front side is directed to the dressing room.
The final stage of the installation of the bath partition is the work on the implementation of decorative finishes. Lining has long been a traditional material for it. To make the bath comfortable, the lining is made of several types of wood:
Scheme of finishing partitions with clapboard.
Hardwood does not emit resin. To install the lining, slats are nailed to the wall. In other words, a crate is being made. Wooden structures inside the bath are impregnated with an antiseptic. This is vital, because the room always has high humidity. At any time, mold can appear, a fungus will appear. Wood just needs maximum protection.
Such a bath resembles a complex sandwich. However, the appearance of the wall has a high appeal. In addition, the partition has other positive properties:
Such a partition in the bath will create a high temperature in the steam room and comfortable conditions for people. Where there is no need to have very strong thermal insulation (bathroom, pantry, hallway), a more simplified design is made.
The partition is assembled from well-dried boards, more than 40 mm thick. For this purpose, dry bars are also used. The installed wall is sheathed on each side with clapboard. All gaps are closed with foam, which will achieve excellent thermal insulation.
Partition insulation
When the installation of the partition is completed, there is always a small gap. It is often covered with mineral wool, which has excellent heat-resistant characteristics.
To insulate frame walls, knowledge of some nuances is required. The fact is that wood has a high thermal conductivity, it cannot resist high loads for a long time.
The inner surface of the walls of the bath is insulated with mineral wool. It is covered with insulating material. Very often used for this:
As a facing material, lining of different colors is used. The process of laying insulation is simple. The most important thing is to be careful and take your time so that the end result is of very high quality.
The microclimate of the bath room always negatively affects the walls and partitions.
The high humidity is doing its job. To extend the life of the partition, you need high-quality waterproofing. It is done in advance before the start of finishing operations. This rule must be followed. For this, special materials are used, which include:
It is forbidden to use only for these purposes. This material, when heated, begins to release various toxins that adversely affect the human body.
Do-it-yourself waterproofing of a brick bath is quite within the power of any novice builder. The most important thing in this work is to correctly install the reflective surface. Its front surface should look inside the room.
Between the waterproofing layer and the interior finish, an air gap must be maintained, with a thickness of more than 15 cm.
Of course, in order to mount partitions that separate the internal sections of the bath, you must have certain knowledge and construction experience. Without this, the result will be of very poor quality.
After manufacturing, the brick partition must stand securely and firmly. A wooden wall must be constantly monitored and carefully looked after. If traces of damage are found, they must be immediately treated with special antiseptic preparations.
magnesite slabs
Scheme of a partition from a magnesite plate.
During the construction of the partition, magnesite slabs are often installed today. They have a number of advantages, such as:
This material is made from:
This is a completely non-combustible material, it is able to tolerate high humidity much better than OSB boards.
Installation of plates is carried out on profiles fixed in a vertical plane. On each side, a heater is laid, which has mandatory protection in the form of a waterproofing layer.
For finishing these sheets, a lining is taken. Other finishing materials are also allowed.
You can also mount the partition without making internal insulation. To do this, you will need to make a wall of two boards. In this case, the thickness of the partition must exceed 30 mm. The warming function will be performed by the air space that occurs between the boards.
The technology of mounting magnesite plates itself is as follows:
- a profile frame is assembled;
- the frame is filled with magnesite slabs;
- additional protection is carried out, a waterproofing film is attached, sometimes it is replaced with foil material;
- the whole structure is sheathed with clapboard.
Basically, there would be a desire - and everything will work out. Good luck building!
How to make partitions in the bath with your own hands (photo and video)
When building a bath, when you do everything yourself, you need to take every step with responsibility. The partition in the bath is considered very important.
It is good if all partitions are immediately erected during the installation of the box. But more often the room is divided after the roof is covered and windows and doors are inserted. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink performs a very important function, so the approach to its manufacture must be very thorough.
Material selection
The partition can be made from almost any building material that can withstand high temperatures without releasing harmful substances. It could be:
- Frame structure made of wood. This option is perfect for a bath, assembled in the same way, and for a brick building. It builds quickly enough and is the easiest to insulate.
- From a log house. It is better to plan and install a partition of this kind during construction. This is important because it is necessary to carry out dressing with the entire structure. After that, it is almost impossible to do this.
- From the foam block and aerated concrete, it can be mounted in brick buildings, as well as wooden ones, when the foundation for the partition was planned in advance.
- From brick. For these purposes, it is better to use red brick, which is refractory and retains heat well.
- From glass. To do this, you will have to order a design for specific dimensions from a temperature-resistant material. This is the most effective option.
This type of partition is one of the best. Does not require additional care. There is also no need to perform insulation, because. Wood itself is an excellent insulator.
Note! For the paw joint, the procedure will be similar, except for the binding itself. Usually, blanks for this method of joining - blockheads - are made at the initial stage for all logs. Next, a trapezoid-shaped tip is made on the log and a sample is made of the same shape on the beam that will be laid perpendicularly.
frame
For this option you will need a cutting board. Its size should be equal to the width of the future partition. It can be 200x100mm, 200x150mm, 150x100mm, 100x50mm. The thicker the partition, the better the heat will be retained. In order to calculate how much total material is needed, it is necessary to calculate the perimeter of the partition. Next, add as many more supports as you need, if they have to be placed in increments of 60 cm.
Note! When choosing this method, you also get excellent sound insulation. This is achieved due to the dense laying of insulation inside the wall.
Brick
Note! As we have already said, under such a partition you need to make a foundation in advance.
It is better to stock up on all the necessary material in advance. Masonry can be done in half a brick. This will save money and also reduce the overall weight of the entire structure. It is desirable that the sand that will be used to prepare the solution is dry. This will help to correctly calculate the ratio and will contribute to a good setting.
Note! To prevent the wall above the doorway from collapsing, it is important to lay several reinforcement bars. It is desirable that its diameter be from 12 mm. Its length should be at least 20 cm longer than the width of the opening. It is necessary to immure it in a seam.
Foam block, aerated concrete
A partition of this material is built according to the brick principle, but there are some nuances.
- When buying, choose a material whose sides are as even as possible, so you make the whole process easier for yourself.
- For the solution, it is better to use a special glue, which is more plastic and dries faster. If you want to cook it yourself, then the proportions will be 4: 1, in addition to sand and cement, you will also need a plasticizer and a foam additive (they need 50 grams per batch).
- The first row is tried on without glue. If one of the blocks needs to be cut, then it is better to cut the two extreme ones to the same size in order to get a good dressing.
- In the same way as in the previous case, ligation with load-bearing walls is carried out using reinforcement or metal plates.
- After two rows, a metal mesh is laid into the seam.
- The doorway and the partition above it are planned in the same way as in the previous version.
- Finishing is carried out using a facing material or putty.
Note! Be sure to provide ventilation in all rooms. This will help prevent the growth of fungus and mold. To do this, you can put supply valves that will overlap. Also, anemostats can be mounted in the ceiling and draw conclusions from them through the ceiling to the roof.
Now you know how to make a partition in the bath. There are no barriers to trying to build it yourself.
Video
The principle of partitioning in wooden buildings is shown below:
The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink should be given special attention, since it (the partition) separates the premises so different in terms of functionality. Such a partition can be made of bricks, boards, timber and even foam blocks. The choice of this or that material depends, first of all, on what the bath itself is built from. If this is a log or frame structure, then it is better to use wood so as not to violate the general concept, and brick is more suitable for a brick bath.
Partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink (wooden version)
In addition, the type of heater in the steam room is also important. If we are talking about a traditional brick oven, then it is already a partition in itself. In this case, you just need to report it until a full-fledged wall is formed. In the case of an iron stove (this option is preferable), the partition should be located at least 10 cm from it for fire safety purposes. Here the partition can be both frame and from ordinary boards.
In the photo - a brick oven and a brick partition 
On a note! For a brick partition, it is recommended to use red brick, not silicate brick (the fact is that the latter is unburnt, which is why it is characterized by rather low rates of thermal insulation and moisture resistance).
The design described below is a wooden frame sheathed with clapboard and insulated with mineral wool.
Design features
| Design features | A photo |
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| The partition will be installed on a concrete curb, which will be 10 cm high and 12.5 cm wide. The curb is necessary not only to strengthen the structure, but also to lay a tile along it after completion of the work, which will isolate the tree from water. |
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| This threshold can be built both when pouring the screed (if the floor in the sink is concrete), and directly during installation, having built a formwork from boards. For better adhesion to concrete, the formwork walls must be coated with a deep primer and concrete contact (for example, manufactured by Knauf). |
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| The base will be attached to the curb with anchors (1.6 cm). The end posts will be inserted into specially made grooves in the walls and secured with hex screws (9x0.8 cm). It is desirable that the grooves in the uprights themselves be oval and longitudinal - so the frame will not be an obstacle to the fall of the log house. In this case, the screws will slide with the walls, there will be no excessive load on the frame, as well as on the structure as a whole. |
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| The upper horizontal beam of the frame should be located at least 3 cm from the ceiling. Thanks to the resulting gap, the expansion or settlement of the log house under the influence of atmospheric phenomena will be compensated. Therefore, vertical grooves in the walls are made along the entire height - from the floor to the ceiling. |
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| For thermal insulation, it is necessary to use mineral wool 10 cm thick. The dimensions of the individual cells of the future design are 120x60 cm and correspond to the standard dimensions of the insulation boards. On both sides, the cotton wool should be covered with plastic wrap and fixed with a mounting stapler - this will prevent the penetration of moisture and, as a result, preserve the noise and thermal insulation properties of the material. |
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| The lining will be fixed with kleimers to a crate made of planks 2.5x5 cm. The crate itself must be mounted on top of the film and fixed on the frame using wood screws. The lining will be laid from the corner of the structure using the tongue-and-groove technology. From the steam room, the lower beam of the crate is attached to the floor, and from the sink it is laid on the curb and fixed only to vertical supports. |
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| After installing the door frame, the final finishing is carried out. First you need to install skirting boards (one end should be inserted into the groove of the wall), then the edges of the structure are overlapped by platbands (the latter also need to be inserted into the grooves). |
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| The platband in the upper part of the partition can be attached directly to the ceiling, but only on condition that it will move with it, without having any effect on the wall itself. The gap formed between the structure and the ceiling must be sealed with cotton wool or any other thermal insulation material. |
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| Wooden elements will be connected with galvanized self-tapping screws. Self-tapping screws can also be used to connect open elements. To "hide" the heads of the screws, stepped holes should be made in advance in the appropriate places; when all the screws are screwed in, they will need to be closed with wooden pins of the required size. |
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Stage one. Preparatory work
First you need to prepare the walls and make a border. The algorithm of actions should be as follows.
Step 1.In opposite walls, grooves are marked and cut with a chainsaw, the dimensions of which should be 4x21.5 cm (the height depends on the specific height of the ceiling, but on average it is 250 cm).
Step 2. Next, you need to install the formwork to create a base for the structure, while taking into account the doorway (94 cm). If the floor of the sink is covered with concrete, then the formwork should be installed along the edge of the screed.
Step 3The floor surface in the formwork must be treated with betocontact and a deep primer. To make the bond more reliable, you can also drill holes inside the formwork in increments of about 20 cm, hammer dowels into it and screw in the screws ½.
Step 4After that, the formwork must be poured with concrete. When the concrete hardens, it must be covered with roofing material in two layers.
Stage two. Frame construction
Step 1.The manufacture of the frame begins with cutting blanks for its base. The dimensions of the blanks should be as follows: 6x10x210 cm and 6x10x176 cm. Having made holes for the anchors, the blanks must be installed on the curb, marked and made similar holes there.
Step 2The blanks are securely fastened with anchors - at least three for each of them.
Step 3Next, the supporting frame of the structure is constructed. To do this, the end posts (their dimensions are 6x10x235 cm) are installed on the base and fastened with hex screws. A washer is placed under each screw.
Step 4An opening is made under the door frame - vertical racks are placed, the dimensions of which are 6x10x206 cm. It is important that the clearance on each side is 1 cm larger than the size of the frame.
Step 5With the help of self-tapping screws, the frame jumper is attached to the tree.
On a note! At this stage, special attention should be paid to the accuracy of the dimensions of the frame frame, since the quality of the entire partition will largely depend on this. Verticality, horizontality, size matching - all this will affect how the design will turn out.
Prices for wood screws
wood screws
Stage three. Thermal insulation. Lathing installation
Step 1.Mineral wool mats must be laid in the cells. If necessary, the material is trimmed with a mounting knife.
Step 2On both sides of the frame, a plastic film is fixed to it (this must be done with a stapler), after which it is spread from top to bottom.
Step 3The crate is installed in compliance with a step of 40 cm.
On a note! If desired, the film can be fixed even at the frame assembly stage - this will simultaneously solve the problem of its fixation in the lower part of the structure.
Stage four. door frame
Step 1. With an opening size of 82x206 cm, it is necessary to install a frame of 80x205 cm there (taking into account 1-centimeter gaps on both sides). Upon completion of installation, checking the verticality / horizontality and fixing the frame to the uprights, all gaps formed must be blown out with mounting foam. Excess hardened foam is cut off with a mounting knife.
Step 2Due to the fact that the frame has a width of 11.5 cm (this is a standard indicator), the open elements of the opening are blocked from washing with planed boards 60x30 mm. At the same time, special attention is paid to the fact that the vertical plane that runs along the outer edges of the boards must correspond to the plane of the outer edges of the lining.
Stage five. Finishing the sink with tiles
Finishing can be carried out both after the installation of the lining, and before it. It is important that the junction of the forcing and the end of the tile is carried out with the utmost precision and without any gaps. You can cover the floor at any convenient time.
Stage six. Clapboard lining
The installation of the lining begins from the corner and is carried out using the tongue-to-groove technology. This means that the spike of each next sheet is placed in the groove of the previous one. Fastening to the crate is carried out using iron clamps.
The last element of the lining is cut in accordance with the required dimensions, after which it is fastened with nails without hats (to avoid accidental burns) or ordinary self-tapping screws, subject to subsequent closure with pins.
Prices for lining
Stage seven. Installation of skirting boards and platbands. Finishing the edges of the structure
Step 1.For platbands, the same lining that was used in the decoration is suitable. By means of a circular, the lining should be cut to length, and then the edges should be cleaned with a manual milling cutter (a radius cutter is used). The vertical platband is joined to the horizontal strictly at an angle of 45 degrees.
Step 2Skirting boards in the steam room are attached to the floor (if it is wooden) and to the racks through the lining (in those places where this can be done).
Step 3. Along the edges of the structure, vertical-type platbands must be inserted into the grooves of the walls, and then attached to the lining itself with self-tapping screws. In this case, stepped holes are made, and the heads of the twisted screws are hidden with wooden pins.
Step 4The slats installed at the top of the structure will only perform a decorative function. They need to be attached to the ceiling with self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes on it, but they will not be inserted into the grooves.
In the photo - a ceiling plinth in a steam room
The described option is suitable for a log cabin of a bathhouse that has already been upset and matured for the required time. The compensation gap that must be left between the wall and the ceiling (3 cm) is necessary in case of a change in the dimensions of the log house itself. If full sediment has not yet occurred, the gap increases to 7-8 cm.
Ordinary boards can be used as sheathing. Both they and the lining should only be made of hardwood, since coniferous wood releases resin at high temperatures. We also note that all the bars in the frame should be treated with an antiseptic.
Cash prices
architraves
The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink can also be made of brick. Here it is better to use a spoon laying in ½ bricks (or, alternatively, in a whole brick). Such a design will weigh quite a lot, therefore, in order to facilitate it, you can use a hollow brick.
Stage one. Training
Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare all work surfaces. The board covering is removed from the floor to the very foundation, then everything is cleaned with a wet broom. Further, the workplace is equipped with good lighting, all items that are not needed in the work are taken out of the room. The contours of the structure are outlined.
Stage two. Solution
To work, you will need the following equipment:
- sieve;
- Sander;
- shovel;
- mixing tank.
Step 1.First you need to sift the sand in order to clean it from foreign objects. A sieve is constructed from a fine-mesh chain-link mesh and 4 bars. The sand is carefully sieved.
Step 3The mixing ratio is 3:1. First, six buckets of sand and two of cement should be poured. Water is added, the solution is mixed with a shovel. This volume of solution is enough for about an hour of work.
Step 4. The solution is kneaded to the consistency of thick sour cream. At the end of kneading, it will begin to harden and shrink, but you should not add water - just stir it once every 15 minutes.
Stage three. Construction
For this step, you need the following tools:
- level;
- pick;
- trowel;
- plumb;
- rule.
| Step, No. | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1. | The twine is pulled - it will be a guide. The solution is laid and leveled with a trowel, the horizontalness is checked. Then you need to wait a bit for the solution to seize. |
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| Step 2 | Another layer is applied on top of it and the laying of row No. 1 begins. |
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| Step 3 | The first brick with mortar applied to the end is laid on the surface and pressed against the wall. Next, the brick is tapped and leveled along the twine, the excess mortar is immediately removed. |
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| Step 4 | If a doorway is planned (and most partitions have it), then it must be set in advance. Using spacers, you should install the door frame. It is checked for horizontal / vertical, if necessary, its position is corrected. |
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| Step 5 | The brick is laid close to the box. To bind the partition to it or to wooden walls, metal strips are used: they should be bent and screwed to the side surfaces so that they (the strips) are between the bricks; you can also use reinforcing bars. |
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| Step 6 | At the end of the laying of row No. 1, the brick is broken into two parts with a pickaxe. One of these halves begins the second row. The string stretched horizontally is carried higher to make it easier to navigate. The third row begins in the same way as the first. |
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On a note! Bandaging masonry is a must. Thanks to this, the load on the structure will be evenly distributed, and the partition itself will turn out to be more durable.
- Every five rows, steel strips or pieces of reinforcement are placed in the seams - this will strengthen the structure.
- The structure is tied to the walls with steel strips, and auxiliary reinforcement can be used for the door frame (ideally, this should be a channel of the appropriate size).
- The gap formed between the ceiling and the wall is filled with small pieces of bricks soaked in concrete beforehand. Pieces need to be pressed as tightly as possible to each other. All cracks are sealed with tow, also treated with cement mortar.
Video - We put a partition in ½ brick
Foam blocks (from gas or foam concrete) are distinguished by the fact that, with a slight (compared to brick) weight, they have about Larger dimensions, which means that laying will be carried out much faster.
The standard blocks are 300 mm high and 600 mm long. The thickness depends on the type of room where the partition is planned, but in most cases products of 75 mm, 100 mm and 150 mm are used. The cost of foam blocks ranges from 21.5-49.5 rubles, depending on the thickness.
The laying procedure is not much different from the previous version, but there are still some differences. Below is the sequence of actions.
Prices for foam blocks
foam blocks
Stage one. markup
First, the floor and walls are prepared in the same way as in the case of brickwork. Then the cord is pulled and the doorway is marked. In accordance with the markup "dry", the first row of blocks is laid out, if necessary, trimming is performed. A grinder is suitable for this, although it is better to use a hacksaw for stone. In the absence of these tools, a simple hacksaw is used.
In place of the future structure, waterproofing is placed (roofing material is suitable) in two layers.
Stage two. Mounting
For laying foam blocks, a special glue is used, which must be diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. The glue must be kneaded with an electric drill with a special mixer nozzle. The adhesive composition is applied to the foam block with a layer of 3 mm, then the block is put in place and tapped, the verticality / horizontality is checked. Each new row of foam blocks must be shifted by about ½ of the width of the product in order to make the partition more durable.
Where the partition joins the main walls, binding is performed with pieces of reinforcement or large nails. To do this, holes are made in the walls, reinforcement with glue is inserted there at least 50 mm. Recesses can be made in the blocks themselves, although it is preferable to place the products directly on the rods that stick out of the walls.
On a note! When the height of the partition reaches the top of the doorway, two bars of reinforcement with a diameter of 1.6 cm are laid in this place. The length of the bars must exceed the width of the opening by at least 10 cm. Blocks are laid on top of the reinforcement up to the ceiling.
Stage three. Plaster
For plaster, you can use the same adhesive solution with which the masonry was performed. If necessary, channels are created for laying communications. At the end of the plaster, the surface is dried, puttied, painted or tiled.
plaster prices
plaster
In some cases (if the weight of the structure is insignificant), a foam block partition can be built directly on a wooden floor. Although there are some nuances here.
- When buying blocks, you need to pay attention to the quality of their surfaces. The smoother the surfaces, the better the finish will be.
- The dimensions of the blocks depend on the place of installation, while the density does not play any role.
- It is advisable to purchase blocks produced using cutting technology.
- If the foam blocks are moistened with water before work, this will increase the density of the masonry.
- The blocks of each new row must be shifted to avoid the appearance of vertical seams.
- It is advisable to leave a small gap between the partition and the ceiling (about 100 mm), which must be filled with mounting foam.
Video - Laying partitions from foam blocks