Wall partition made of plasterboard. Installation of an interroom plasterboard partition. Sheathing of the subsystem with sheets

Hello, hello, our brave plasterboarders. Today you will find a cool tutorial on the topic of drywall partitions. Speaking specifically, we will disassemble a single-layer partition on a single frame - C 111 according to the Knauf classification, because. such partitions are most widespread. We will deal with the general principles of their installation, how to form a doorway, an external corner and pairing several partitions with each other. As an example, we will take a corner partition with a doorway, such as pantries and dressing rooms (essentially moth nurseries) are usually enclosed to store pickles / jams and all sorts of junk that is long overdue to be disposed of.

Please note that work with drywall can only be carried out after the plaster and screed in the apartment have completely dried.

To begin with, let's get acquainted with the special profiles that serve to form the frame of the partitions. These profiles are called rack-mount. To be more precise, there are exactly rack-mounted PSs (CW), and there are also special wide guides PN (UW) for them. Dimensions of guide profiles: 40×50, 75, 100 mm. In our example, profiles with a width of 100 mm will be used. The letters C and U in their bourgeois name indicate the shape of their section. As you can see in the picture, the guide shelves are straight, like the horns of the letter U, and the rack - with roundings, like the C. By the way, the shelves are called the side edges of the profiles, and the walls are the back. The second letter of the overseas name means that the profiles are rack-mounted, i.e. wall from the German "Wand".

Rack and guide profiles Knauf

They are in paired version.

Once again, we repeat that you can only use a profile with a metal thickness of 0.55-0.6 mm, for example, Knauf. They are good not only because of the rigidity, but also because their design allows you to insert them into each other, thereby achieving their elongation and reinforcement on the sides of the doorway. Profiles from other manufacturers may not be able to do this. In the walls of the PN there are already ready-made holes with a diameter of 8 mm for dowels.

Dimensions of rack profiles: 50×50, 75, 100 mm. For single-layer partitions, the 50th posts are rather weak, so we advise you all to take the 75th or 100th. In the walls of the Knauf rack profiles there are 3 pairs of closely spaced holes with a diameter of 33 mm for laying wires.

1. Guide profiles KNAUF PN 100×40 mm
2. Rack profiles KNAUF PS 100×50 mm
3. Sealing tape Dichtungsband
4. Separating tape
5. "Dowel-nails" (another name is "Quick installation") 6 × 40 mm
6. Cord breaking device
7. Laser level or bubble level
8. Rule aluminum 2.5 m
9. Gyproc plasterboard sheets 3000x1200x12.5
10. Seam putty (we work with Danogips Superfinish)
11. Reinforcing tape for seams KNAUF Kurt
12. Roulette
13. Hammer
14. Stationery knife (or special knife for cutting the Civil Code)
15. Perforator + drill
16. Screwdriver and cutter
17. Self-tapping screws for metal 3.5 × 25-35 mm (black, frequent pitch)
18. Self-tapping screws with press washer 4.2×13mm or shorter
19. Metal shears or grinder
20. Mineral wool ISOVER, KNAUF Insulation, URSA, Rockwool, Shumanet, etc.
21. Narrow and wide spatulas

On the next slide on the left - a self-tapping screw with a press washer, it serves to fasten the profiles together. There is an option with a drill and without. They are designated, respectively, LB and LN. On the slide - option LN. In our case, they are needed only if there is no cutter. On the right is a drywall screw. More precisely, it is all the same for metal, but it already serves to fasten sheets of the Civil Code to the profiles. Therefore, most often it is called that - a drywall screw. Has a secret, so-called. carob, head. Designated - TN. There is also a TB, with a drill at the end, but you can do without it, 0.6 mm steel TNs will easily be taken.

Self-tapping screws for mounting structures made of plasterboard

Do-it-yourself instructions for installing a plasterboard partition.

Step 1. Markup

For example, let our partition be a continuation of an existing wall. It is highly desirable to pre-align the beacons. We draw a line-the continuation of the wall on the ceiling, we make a right angle with a simple square. This line is the inner border of our future partition, taking into account its final dimensions. But we first need to mount the frame, and for it the dimensions are different. It is not necessary to draw your own lines for the frame, you can make everything easier. How? Find out very soon...

Marking lines on the ceiling

For now, we transfer the lines from the ceiling to the floor using a plumb line and a cord breaker, or a laser level.

Transfer markings to the floor

And now in front of you is the very simplified way of marking the PN.

Mark holes for fasteners

The bottom line is that pieces of drywall are sewn onto the guide profiles cut to size, which are already set along the lines. With this approach, the risk of error will be minimal. We mean that later, when the Civil Code sheets are sewn on, the rule will not “jump” at the wall/partition boundary. Pieces of GKL should be sewn flush with the walls of the PN. We expose the profile with these pieces along the line and put marks with a pencil or marker where we will have holes for attaching the PN to the base.

From a different angle

Step 2. Fixing the PN

Then, according to our marks, holes are drilled in the base, and a sealing tape is necessarily glued to the profiles. Its absence is capable of completely ruining the entire soundproofing of the future partition. With it, the adjunction to the base will be very tight, which also affects the crack resistance of the structure. The fastening itself is carried out with dowel-nails using an ordinary hammer. Fast and strong.

Attaching the profile to the dowel-nails

Guides on the floor

Near the opening

On the ceiling

We do not unscrew the pieces of GKL from the profiles until we fix the PN at all the necessary points. Often there are situations when the holes available in the PN are not enough. In these cases, they should be drilled independently, and you can do it in one go - through the profile to the base. The main thing is to carefully monitor that the boundaries of the GKL pieces clearly coincide with the marking lines. After fixing the guides on the sides of the doorway, I advise you to check them with the rule and make sure that they lie exactly on the same line.

You need to make at least three attachment points per profile. Even if it is 30 cm long. Usually, the fastening pitch is made in the region of 50 cm. If the floor is uneven, the pitch is reduced. Sometimes you even have to divide the PN into several segments. We do the same on the ceiling. Then we unscrew the pieces of GKL, but do not throw them away, they will still be useful to us ...

Step 3. Mounting wall substations

Fastening racks to walls

We cut the rack profiles in height, insert them into the guides close to the walls and drill holes in the walls right through them. Try to maintain a step of about 50 cm, no more. We hammer the dowel-nails into these holes again. Do not forget to glue the walls of the profiles with sealing tape! And control them by the rule, they should not be bent. By the way, the height of the substation must be less than the height of the ceilings in the room, at least 1 centimeter. They should not support the ceiling.

The length of the racks is 1 cm less than the height of the ceiling

As you can see, there is some distance between the rack profile and the floor.

Step 4 Installing the frame posts

The rack profiles of the frame are installed in increments of 60 cm. If tiles are laid on the partition, then in increments of 40 cm. The profiles of the doorway are extraordinary, and they do not affect the pitch of the remaining substations. The slide shows the profiles set at 60 and 80 cm from the wall. Near PS just forms a doorway.

Partition frame posts

To reliably form an opening, the side PSs are made double, that is, one PS is inserted into the other. Of course, this is done in such a way that the holes in the walls of these profiles coincide in height. Inserting the PS into each other is not an easy task, sometimes you have to walk on them with your feet so that they snap into place along the entire length. It turns out that on the slide you see 3 profiles, but in fact there are 4 of them.

PS are set in one direction - with the wall to the corner from which the plasterboard sheathing will begin. The maximum weight of the door leaf that a pair of PS-100 can withstand is 40 kg. Rack profiles are installed strictly vertically. Their length should be 1 cm less than the height of the ceilings. And the holes in all profiles must be at the same height. Profiles can be fixed to the rails using a cutter or self-tapping screws with a press washer (temporarily). Before patching the GKL, all self-tapping screws must be unscrewed.

Racks in place

Yes, PS are installed in one direction, because the fastening of sheets should begin from that part of the profile shelf, which is closer to its wall. If you do the opposite, the screws will jam the profile shelf, and it may bend. On the slide you see an almost finished partition frame. Let's take a look at how the outside corner is formed correctly...

Forming the outer corner

Frame from another angle

One of the rack profiles is turned with the wall outward, and the second one stands with a shelf towards us. A distance equal to the thickness of the GKL was left between them, we laid it at the stage of fixing the PN. Thus, the GK sheet on the inside of the partition will wind up, as it were, into its depths. At the end of the article, the outer corner of the fully finished partition will be shown in section.

Step 5 Jumper

Jumper from PN

It remains for us to make a jumper for the doorway. It is made from a guide profile by making an oblique incision of its shelves and bending a part of its length by 5-7 cm. The slide clearly shows how it will look. That is, you will need to cut a piece of PN 10-14 cm longer than the width of the opening. Cut and fold it symmetrically. On each side, the jumper is attached to the side posts with 2-3 LN screws.

Installing a jumper in the frame

Now our frame is completely finished. It is possible to pass electric cables through the frame. But you should not bring them inside the profiles, as they can be pierced with TN screws when sheathing the GKL.

Step 6. GKL sheathing

Sheathing the frame with drywall

BEFORE jumpers

There are several rules here.

• We have already mentioned the first one - you cannot join sheets on the side profiles of the opening.
• Secondly, cruciform joints of the “+” type are unacceptable, only of the “t” type.
• Thirdly, the joints of the sheets on the inside and outside should be horizontally shifted by a profile step, and vertically by at least 40 cm. On the slide, you can see the very pieces of drywall that we used for marking. Now they serve us as props. After all, the sheets of the Civil Code cannot be placed directly on the floor, they must be raised above it by about 1 cm.
• And they should not reach the ceiling either, about half a centimeter. This is the fourth rule.

To fix the drywall to the double posts of the opening, you can use small metal drills. Otherwise, very often self-tapping screws simply jam the inside of the profile. First, drill holes through the gypsum board, then screw the screws into them. Of course, sheets can only be joined horizontally on profiles, which means that we must make jumpers from PS at the joints. See how they look on the next slide.

PS jumpers

These are segments of conventional rack profiles. To fix them, again, you need to start from the side of the shelf, which is closer to the wall. In the matter of mounting the jumpers, it is desirable to have an assistant who will hold the sections of the profiles while you turn the screws in them. As soon as all the jumpers are placed, it is possible to lay soundproofing plates (mineral wool) between the profiles. We like ISOVER the most. When laying, we try not to leave unfilled areas. It should be cut off with a margin of about 5 cm so that it abuts against the profiles and thus keeps in the frame. When working with mineral wool, be sure to use goggles, a respirator and gloves!

Sheathing process

Sheathing process 2

Finished skin

The step of the screws is about 20-25 cm. On the jumpers, it is advisable to twist them more often, after 10-15 cm. Make sure that the heads of the screws are deepened into the sheet, but do not pierce the cardboard. If the cardboard is pierced, the screw should be twisted. More importantly, the screws must enter strictly at right angles. They must be at least 15 mm from the edge of the end edge of the sheet and at least 10 mm from the longitudinal edge. By the way, GKL can only be mounted in a vertical position! If a stretch ceiling is planned in the room, it is advisable to mount PS mortgages under it in the partition, into which we recommend additionally inserting a beam of the appropriate size.

I also recommend screwing self-tapping screws into the jumpers on both sides of the partition, and not just from the side of the joint. It is advisable to adjust the location of the sheets on the outer corner so that they lie on it with the factory edge. Then, when we install a protective corner on it, it will deepen and the plane will not deteriorate. Of course, all progressive mankind has long been using a special corner-proof paper tape, Sheetrock, for example. But we know that it’s hard to find one in our country, so our Stone Age has dragged on, and we still use outdated metal corners. So, the partition is assembled.

And here are the promised pairings:

Right outside corner

Cruciform conjugation

T-shaped interface

And here is the video from Knauf:

In contact with

When planning repairs, people often decide to redevelop the premises by removing old and building new partitions, which allows for a more rational approach to planning the usable area.

And if there are usually no difficulties with regard to the destruction of old walls, then the issue of new ones should be approached more thoroughly so that time, effort and money are spent as little as possible, and the result is as good as possible.

From this article you will learn:

Previously, bricks were used to build partitions, but today the choice of building materials has become wider. Experts advise to focus on one of the latest developments - drywall. Lightweight, inexpensive, easy to install - this material is very popular when it comes to building new interior partitions.

• Difficulties that you will encounter if you started a redevelopment of a one-room apartment into a two-room apartment, as well as ways to overcome them, are discussed in this article.
• What should be the design of Khrushchev in order to rationally use all the space, read here.

If you decide to make drywall partitions, then you must first select the appropriate material, make markings for the construction of the frame from the profile, prepare all the necessary materials and equipment, and then proceed directly to the installation. The frame is the base to which the drywall sheets will be attached. They make it from a special metal profile, which is divided into several types depending on its purpose. The length of all profiles is 3-4 meters, according to an individual order, a product up to 7 meters long can be made.

Types of metal profile for drywall:

• rack - used to create load-bearing structures, vertical racks. May have the following dimensions: 50x50, 65x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm;
• guide - used to fasten the rack profile, create jumpers, necessary when installing door frames. Its size can be equal to: 50x40, 65x40, 75x40 and 100x40. Its second type has dimensions of 28x27 mm and is used when working with suspended ceilings;
• corner - necessary to protect the edges of drywall sheets from mechanical damage. It is distinguished by the presence of a large number of holes, in the process of finishing work it is puttied;
• ceiling. The name speaks for itself - this profile is used when installing a false ceiling. Dimensions: 60x27 mm. It is not used in work with interior partitions.

The length and width of all drywall sheets are usually unchanged - 2.5 and 1.2 meters, respectively (it is rare to find sheets 600 mm wide and 2 to 4 meters long on sale), so you should not pay much attention to these parameters.

The thickness of the sheets is more important to you. It depends on the purpose for which this type of building material will be used.

You should pay attention to drywall with a thickness of 12.5 mm, since it is this that is used to create interior partitions. Other sheets (9.5 and 6.5 mm thick) are not suitable for you, as they are used for mounting false ceilings and arches, respectively. Before starting repair and construction work, make sure that you have everything you need prepared.

What you need to work with drywall:

• drywall itself in the required quantity (depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future wall);
• metal profiles (rack-mount, guides and corner);
• self-tapping screws ("metal-metal", "metal-gypsum") and dowels;
• tape for sealing;
• sandpaper;
• insulation (mineral wool is a great option);
• a set of tools (a construction knife, an annular type-setting saw, a knife-saw, a circular cutter, an end and edge planer, metal shears, a screwdriver and a puncher). The set can be both expanded and reduced.

The construction of interior partitions from drywall begins with the installation of the frame. Before you start this process, you need to make markup. First, using a tracing cord, mark the axis at the location of the future partition, immediately marking the location of the doorway. With the help of plumb lines and the same cord, the axis is transferred to the walls and ceiling. When the markup is done, you can proceed with the installation of the frame. The first step is the installation of guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. When attaching them to the wall, do not forget about the sealing tape. Fasten it at the junction of the profile to the surface in order to increase the soundproofing characteristics. The profile is attached to the ceiling and floor with dowels, step - 1 meter, but for each profile - at least 3 dowels.

The second step is the installation of vertical (rack-mount) profiles. Pay attention to the grooves located on the "shelves" of these profiles: the middle one is the border of the joining of drywall sheets, the extreme ones are the place of centering the self-tapping screws.

The process of mounting rack profiles (SP):

• insert the joint venture into the guide profile on the floor, and then on the ceiling, not less than 2 cm;
• Install the joint venture strictly vertically, mounting them in increments of 600 mm. Open side - in the direction of installation of the partition;
• fasten rack and guide profiles with metal-to-metal self-tapping screws. First you need to screw the self-tapping screw into the 1st groove from the “back” of the profile, and then into the one located at the open side (outer). So you do not risk deforming the structure.

A beam of suitable size can be inserted into the side profile - for a higher level of frame strength. In order to make a doorway in a plasterboard partition, it is necessary to leave a place for it in advance - at the stage of mounting the metal frame.

Install the rack profiles at the desired distance (these will be the side stops).

Between them, at a certain height, a guide profile should be installed, in the middle of which, parallel to the side joint ventures, an additional rack profile should be mounted, where the joint of drywall sheets will be located.

If you want to make window openings at the top, then the principle of mounting the frame under them remains the same as for doors, only the dimensions of these openings will be smaller. When the frame is ready, you can proceed to the last stage of the construction of interior partitions - sheathing with sheets of drywall.

First you need to install whole sheets that do not require gouges and fittings. Next, you need to cut the sheets of the desired size and install them in the appropriate places, attaching to the frame.

Cutting drywall sheets is easy - with a sharp knife, draw along the marking line applied to the sheet after careful measurements, cutting the cardboard shell and grabbing the gypsum core. After that, you need to put the sheet on a flat surface and break it off along the notch line, and process the edge with a planer.

• At this link you will find photos of stretch ceiling design options, as well as tips on how to choose the right ceiling design style.
• And from here you can learn how to independently install the drywall arch.

Plasterboard sheets are pressed tightly against the frame and screwed with self-tapping screws. You should start from the corner in two directions perpendicular to each other. It is necessary to fasten in increments of 250 mm (from one self-tapping screw to another), retreating from the edge by about 10-15 mm. Tighten the self-tapping screws strictly perpendicular to the sheet, driving them so that the heads “sink” into the drywall (by 1-2 mm, no more).

Sew the frame first on one side only, leaving the other open. If you plan to use any communication networks, then you should start and lay them inside the frame cavity in advance. Do not forget about sound and heat insulation. To do this, you need to lay mineral wool in the cavity of the frame (necessarily of the NG type - non-combustible).

Make sure that it lies tightly, does not slip. Lay it up and down. Wear gloves to avoid skin irritation.

After that, sew up the second side of the frame with drywall sheets and proceed to the finishing work:

• first putty the joints between the sheets and the holes left by the heads of the self-tapping screws with a starting putty;
• clean the dried putty with fine-grained sandpaper;
• reinforce the outer corners with an angular profile, putty, clean;
• apply finishing putty if you are going to paint a plasterboard wall, and after drying, clean it thoroughly so that there are no bumps.

Installation is over, if you did everything correctly, then you will get a perfectly flat and smooth surface, completely ready for finishing work.

diskmag.ru

Plasterboard interior partitions - an easy way to redevelop

Today it is difficult to imagine the repair of an apartment in an old house without redevelopment. They change the configuration or number of rooms with their own hands with the help of interior walls. They are created from a suitable building material - brick, foam block or GVL. But the simplest and most practical solution for dividing space is drywall interior partitions.

Why drywall? It is easy to install with your own hands, durable, and the weight of the GKL is small. The sheet is small in thickness, so the design of it does not take up extra space. In addition, GKL is a good soundproof plus fire-resistant material. The main thing is that they build such a wall of drywall with their own hands. GKL forgives mistakes, and even inexperienced builders get a smooth wall from it.

Dividing a room with plasterboard sheets

DIY device: general rules

For work, you will need a plasterboard, a rack and guide profile, soundproofing material, self-tapping screws, dowels and tools. After puttying, the surface of the new wall will have to be painted, wallpaper or ceramic tiles glued to it. Finishing material is also needed.

Venerable builders recommend Knauf materials. For do-it-yourself work, it is better to choose them. It doesn’t matter if it is a slab, profile, putty or primer - Knauf quality is always on top. Knauf mineral wool is used as sound insulation in residential premises and industrial facilities.

Before buying consumables, calculate the required quantity. For this purpose, it is determined whether the partition will be multilayered. As a rule, it is made single-layer, but sometimes it is necessary to strengthen it with a second layer of plasterboard, for example, if it is planned to attach heavy structures to it - a boiler or a hanger.

The strength of the structure depends on the thickness of the profile - bearing (CW) and guide (UW). It must be at least 0.55 mm.

The connection of profiles is carried out by the so-called "fleas" - self-tapping screws 11 mm long. They have a sharp tip or in the form of a gimlet and drill through metal up to 2 mm. It is difficult to use them - they always strive to slip out and get lost. Therefore, if you are going to do repairs with your own hands, they buy them with a margin, and use the PH-2 nozzle when working. Self-tapping screws with a tip without a gimlet are preferable.

Mounting materials

To attach the guides to the main walls and ceiling, dowels and self-tapping screws are required, which are hammered. A suitable dowel is with a diameter of 6 mm. If the wall is with a loose surface, take dummies and self-tapping screws with a smaller diameter of 1-2 mm. For a metal frame, you need self-tapping screws for metal 2.5 cm long, and for wood - the same length, but for wood.

Frame: do-it-yourself assembly

Assembly begins with marking. You will need a level and a plumb line. The order is as follows:

• The place where the wall will stand is determined. On opposite walls from floor to ceiling, two control lines are applied with a thread or a masking cord.
• Measure the height of each and cut the guides 5 mm shorter and fasten them to the wall along the intended markup so that there is a gap with the ceiling. Do the same on the opposite wall. Dowels are fastened in steps of up to 40 cm.
• A horizontal profile is inserted and attached to the left gap near the ceiling. When the width of the partition exceeds 4 m, the profiles are overlapped with level control.
• After that, the lower profile is attached. If an opening, arch or something similar is planned, a gap is left in the lower horizontal profile. In this case, the calculation of the length of the profiles is made taking into account the height and width of the door frame, arches, etc., plus the dimensions of the gaps of 2.5 mm for the edges on each side and 5 mm for the frame allowance.

Frame for a wall made of plasterboard

The profile is cut with a grinder. When the floor is wooden, then a strip of adhesive tape is glued to the bottom surface of the profile. Then the partition will not rattle.

The door lintel is made from a guide profile, which is fixed with “fleas”. To prevent the partition from ringing when opening and closing the door, wooden bars are inserted into the opening along the perimeter and fastened to the profile with self-tapping screws. For greater rigidity, the carrier profile is fixed in increments of 30 cm, so that there are four strips per gypsum board.

In the process of sewing, the structure is prepared for the installation of electrical wiring and other communications. To do this, cuts in the plaster should be provided. Draw an approximate wiring diagram and follow it to avoid difficult-to-correct errors. The wires are distributed in free places and attached to the profile.

Soundproofing is performed after sheathing one side of the partition. To do this, a heater is laid between the profiles - mineral wool. It is cut a little wider and thicker than the opening so that it fits snugly between the carrier profile. Its thickness is not less than the width of the partition. It is better to use large or whole pieces to get rid of cracks immediately.

sheathing

Do not forget about gloves, otherwise you can hurt your hands. Those suffering from respiratory diseases should work in a respirator. Cotton wool is installed in one "window" and the place is immediately closed with plaster. This will reduce the amount of dust in the air.

If on one side the cladding device goes in one direction, then on the other side the drywall is fixed in the reverse order. This will eliminate the risk of overlapping seams on the uprights.

You can immediately close the opening with a sheet, and then make a cutout on the spot with a knife (for example, a paint knife) or a hacksaw. About 60 pieces of self-tapping screws are required per sheet of drywall. Make sure that their hats are sunken when screwing in. This will facilitate subsequent puttying.

What why

The work is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:

• GKL is screwed to the profile in increments of 25 cm. The second layer is fastened with self-tapping screws after 60 cm.
• The edges of the scraps are processed with a rasp. Screws must not be driven into the corners and edges of the sheets. 5 cm and 1.5 cm recede from them, respectively.
• When one side is ready, the device is opposite.
• For greater confidence, the back side of the profile is glued with soundproof tape.
• The plates of the second layer are fixed in a checkerboard pattern so that the seams do not coincide with the seams of the first. The spacing is at least 40 cm.

Putty works

Preparing for finishing

When the wall is almost ready, start puttying. But first, the seams are embroidered. The chamfer is made 45 degrees with a knife. The next stage is priming, sealing the seams with a sickle and puttying. The seams are coated with a gypsum mixture using a spatula. The outer corners of the doorway are reinforced with a corner perforated profile.

When the seams dry, treat the surface with an acrylic primer (preferably from Knauf) and proceed to puttying. One layer of putty is enough if the surface will be pasted over with wallpaper. If it is prepared for painting, then one more layer is needed - the finishing one.

After complete drying, grouting and grinding is required. This operation is carried out with the help of graters and trowels with numbers from 100 to 150. Dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Knauf system

The Knauf company enjoys a well-deserved trust among builders. Recently, the so-called partitions according to the Knauf system have gained popularity. The difference from the usual ones is that their installation is carried out exclusively using the materials of this manufacturer.

The Knauf profile is known for the fact that after connecting the parts on the resulting wall, there are no bumps and extra protrusions. This helps to save on subsequent finishing.

The video shows the process of installing an interior partition from GKL:

Knauf technology involves the use of moisture-resistant sheets of its own production. Knauf also offers complete kits for assembling frames of varying complexity. They include profiles, corners and other elements of various shapes - this is practically a designer. The material is highly resistant to mechanical stress and water. The company offers five standard sizes of plasterboard, which helps to speed up the assembly. Knauf mineral wool, which has the best characteristics in its class, is recommended as a heater and sound insulator.

It may seem a little expensive, but you should not think about whether to take it or not, to do it or not. After redevelopment, you will not recognize the apartment. It will become more functional, modern and beautiful. And good Knauf materials will ensure the durability of the plasterboard interior partition.

They will also help you create strong do-it-yourself drywall walls that will serve you faithfully for a long time. And if you want to make the interior more interesting, you can always install plasterboard interior arches. See for yourself that a quality drywall repair with your own hands is not at all difficult!

gipsohouse.ru

How to make an interior partition from drywall with your own hands

Having decided to build an additional wall in an apartment or house that acts as a separating partition, many people decide to use drywall as the main material, since it has many advantages:

• allows for quick installation.
• even with minimal effort, it results in absolutely smooth surfaces;
• has a low weight;
• has high sound insulation and fire resistance;
• having a small thickness, it makes it possible to hide communications.

The construction of an additional wall is a fairly simple process that can be entrusted to professionals or done independently, having previously familiarized yourself with all the nuances of building such a plasterboard partition. How to make interior walls? Video or photo instructions are the best helpers in solving this issue, thanks to which you can not only familiarize yourself with the installation rules, but also see exactly how to perform it.

A do-it-yourself drywall partition is built directly from drywall, CW rack profiles and UW guide profiles, which are attached to the floor and ceiling. For reliability, the thickness of the profile must be at least 0.55 mm, otherwise the partition may be deformed during operation. Before buying the required material, you first need to calculate how much is needed to build drywall interior partitions. The dimensions of the room in these calculations play a major role, since it depends on their values ​​how much drywall sheets and metal profiles will need to be purchased. Also, the amount of purchased material is affected by whether the wall will be two-layer or single-layer. If you are interested in a more powerful version of a foam block partition, then we have a detailed article. Also, do not forget to read this article, which describes another option for building a partition.

Do-it-yourself device and installation of an interior partition made of plasterboard

1. Before you make a drywall partition, you need to finish all wet work in the room.

2. We begin the installation of the partition by marking the walls, ceiling and floor using a laser level or a plumb line and a level.

3. On the back of the UW profile, we glue a soundproof tape that will dampen vibration during operation.

4. The UW profile is cut to the required size, drilled and stuck to the floor with screws and dowels 6x60, installed at a distance of 60-80 cm from each other.

5. Attach the UW profile to the ceiling in the same way.

Since the most popular installation of drywall partitions in an apartment involves the vertical installation of solid sheets, therefore, we also make the frame vertical from CW profiles, which are fixed to the UW guide profiles passing along the floor and ceiling.

6. We shorten the CW profiles by 10-15 mm relative to the height of the room.

7. Be sure to glue the extreme adjoining CW profiles on the reverse side with tape and fix them on the walls.

8. We install the rest of the CW profiles in increments of 60 cm and fix them with a notcher.

9. We carry out the sewing of one side of the partition using a drywall screwdriver, which does not allow self-tapping screws in drywall to be heated.

10. We carry out the distribution of wires in the free niches of the structural spaces of the partition.

11. We fill the niches of the plasterboard room partition with an insulator. Mineral wool boards or rolled insulation are recommended as insulating material. The thickness of the insulator must be no less than the thickness of the niche, otherwise it will slip and will not perform its functions. The insulation layer is laid so that there are no gaps between the plates. It is better to use whole pieces, since cuttings of insulating material reduce the sound transmission of the partition.

12. We install drywall sheets for sewing the second side of the partition onto the drywall lining.

13. We sew up the second side of the partition with gypsum boards, fixing them with self-tapping screws in increments of 20-25 cm with a single-layer lining or in increments of 50-60 cm with a two-layer lining.

14. We measure all the missing parts from drywall with a tape measure and cut it with a drywall knife. We process the cut edges with a drywall rasp.

15. For increased strength of horizontal seams, we install pieces of the profile as jumpers. We screw the self-tapping screws not into the corner of the sheets, but retreating from the corner 3-5 cm, but from the edge 1-1.5 cm, so that the core does not crumble.

You can sew up the partition in two layers, then it will have an increased quality:

• better absorb sound;
• have better bearing capacity, stiffness, and in some cases fire resistance.

16. When performing the second layer of sewing, we measure all the wires and transfer their dimensions to a drywall blank, due to which we determine the exact location for making a hole for the wires. Such a hole is made with a special hacksaw.

17. We stretch all the wires through the slots and carry out the installation of the plate. We sew the second layer with self-tapping screws with a step of 20-25 cm so that the vertical and horizontal seams of the second layer do not coincide with the seams of the first layer. We install the plates in a checkerboard pattern relative to each other or with a horizontal seam separation of at least 40 cm.

18. At the final stage, we perform stitching. To do this, first, with a knife on drywall at an angle of 45º, we remove the chamfers for subsequent sealing of the seams with a special putty.

19. We check the quality of work with a level in three planes - horizontally, diagonally and vertically. Deviations of no more than 5 mm for every 3 m of vertical height and 1-2 mm for every 2 m along the plane of the structure are allowed.

The price of an interior partition

The costs incurred by the construction of a plasterboard partition are calculated on an individual basis, since this value is influenced by many factors:

• quality and, accordingly, the price of the selected material;
• design features and size of the partition;
• the cost of erecting a partition, etc.

So, if among all the proposed materials you choose more expensive drywall and a profile, and the cost for the partition will then increase. On average, for 3 meters of the UW profile, you will have to pay 20 UAH ($ 2), and for 3 meters of the CW profile - 25 UAH ($ 3) . The average cost of a two-meter-long drywall sheet is about 40 UAH ($ 4).

Self-construction of a partition is very justified from the point of view of economy, since the craftsmen ask for considerable sums for the installation of partitions in a drywall room. The price for such services will cost approximately 80 UAH / sq.m ($ 8). And installing a partition with your own hands will reduce overall costs by almost half.

Do-it-yourself drywall interior partition video

o-builder.com

Plasterboard interior partition with a door installation do-it-yourself partition installation video

When choosing a material for installing interior partitions, gypsum boards rightly lead. They are practically devoid of competition not only in the price range and quality, but also in the possibility of their installation without the help of specialists.

Photo 1 - Plasterboard partitions photo

Features of plasterboard partitions

This is a universal material for independent redevelopment, however, its use is impossible without first installing a wooden or metal profile. Plasterboard boards can be combined with any soundproof filler.

Advantages

• Almost flat surface suitable for any coating or finish - from painting to wallpaper.
• Minor weight. This is an important factor, especially in older buildings with wooden floors, where additional load on the beams is undesirable.
• Noise isolation. With a width of double-sided drywall of 9.5 cm, sound absorption will be about 37 dB.
• Fire resistance. Two-layer sheathing will increase this figure three times.

Disadvantages of drywall partitions

• Fragility. On one meter of material it is impossible to produce a load of more than 15 kg. This eliminates the installation of built-in attachments, bookshelves or plasma panels.
• Subject to deformation in case of flooding. It is unstable to moisture (installation of a plasterboard wall is carried out only after all work on the installation of plumbing equipment, before working with floors).

Do-it-yourself installation of an interior partition. Instruction

Installation of an interior partition - Video tutorial:

The end side of the drywall adjacent to the ceiling must be at least 15 mm behind, for this it must be processed with a special planer. The removal of screws vertically on two adjacent sheets is at least 10 mm. The screws themselves should clearly enter at a right angle, and with a 1mm flooded head, in order to further putty them.

The main task of repair in apartments and houses is to bring the walls back to normal. Just a few decades ago, almost no one heard of perfectly even walls. Aligned, based on the principle of "at least somehow." The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: remove the old plaster and re-plaster the beacons. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: level the walls with GKL (plasterboard sheets).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process of repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

1. On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, however, it is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cutting off the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fasteners on wooden bars is that when not dry enough (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can “lead” during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also the possibility of destruction of wood by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since lumber prices are much lower than profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to get a perfectly flat surface with any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps, from which the frame is assembled, so that the front part of the jumper and the rack lie in the same plane. Since the plasterboards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the frame from the profile is the possibility of laying a sound pickup and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without a heater it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of drywall sheets immediately on the walls.

In other words, installing GKL on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in heaps, if there are differences, and in strips, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, fixed with props and wedges.

The latest technology - landing drywall on glue, the fastest, however, it also has disadvantages. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a mortgage beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly smooth (difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the GKL bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video

So, when sticking a sheet on a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are exactly the same, they just use special self-tapping screws for wood.

The purpose of drywall sheets and their dimensions

A few words about how to put GKL on the walls and what sizes they are. The standard dimensions are: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm - universal material for ceiling and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as those used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be deployed inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join drywall sheets in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By shifting the seam, with almost one hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall mounting rules: photo, video

During installation, drywall sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened with special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 self-tapping screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called “for drywall”. Color - white or black (more often breaks), length - 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, flat-head self-tapping screws of similar size are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the desired depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while not tearing the cardboard, it must also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, so you reduce the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each drywall sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls on the middle of the profile.

Having indented from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be displaced or placed above one another. Mounting step - 250-300 millimeters. Mounted on the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another important point is the height of the installed sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from the floor to the ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Partition for a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level (laser plane builder). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level (high quality). Then, using the level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is not more than 40 centimeters.

PN-profile has a standard wall height (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. The width of the carrier profile will determine how thick the soundproofing material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity, make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that a heater is installed.

Racks to rails are attached in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, fastens two parts. Fans, during independent repair work with GKL, are attached to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (the holes do not need to be drilled). On each side of the rack is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling rail and the junction of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of creaking. During walking, a vibration occurs that is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profiles rub, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the drywall sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, nevertheless, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and stagger. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is fixed with screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are stiffened with the help of jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are a prerequisite for plasterboard sheathing. It is also desirable to strengthen them with a wooden block.

1. Laying communications, plasterboard walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. It is desirable to install all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on a wooden frame or in a wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

1. Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and drywall.

After laying communications, they begin to mount drywall sheets. They are installed exactly as when sheathing. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls use conventional insulation.

• Styrofoam. One of the varieties of foam. It differs in cells of a closed form, due to which it has the best characteristics: fungi do not develop, rodents do not like it, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, more dense. It can be installed in a spacer and is easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. Minus - high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent characteristics in terms of heat and sound insulation, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burning, it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This is stone wool (basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt is considered the most environmentally friendly, because it does not contain formaldehyde. It is quite easy to work with them, they hold well by surprise, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, and no respiratory and skin protection is needed during installation. Their disadvantage is the high cost. The most affordable option of these heaters is slag wool, glass wool has an average price, and, of course, stone is the most expensive.

In principle, you can use any other heaters, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When sheathing walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. This will require a clerical knife, a long, even object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all features of this process can be described, some are better to see with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming work, and how well the frame will be formed depends on how even the partition and wall will be.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really tough. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the GKL, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

There are various profile models on the market, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of the metal, it is stiffer. How good it is in practice, look at the video.

It is produced in residential, public or industrial buildings according to the developed technologies of the manufacturers of these structures. Being a prefabricated structure, a plasterboard partition is mounted according to certain rules to ensure thermal, noise and damp conditions in the room.

By following the general rules for installing plasterboard partitions, you ensure the quality and durability of the structure, as well as prepare the quality of the further finishing of the partition. Let's formulate partition wall rules on the basis of TU and SNiP on this topic. They will undoubtedly come in handy for those who are renovating or building their home.

For builders and those who are under construction, roll mesh 100 100 of the Ural Frame and Reinforcing Plant (UKAZS LLC), manufactured according to all the requirements of GOST 8478-81 “Welded meshes ...” at prices without extra charges and intermediaries. The assortment of the plant includes rolled mesh with other mesh sizes, different widths and rod diameters.

General rules for the installation of plasterboard partitions

• It is necessary to mount partitions in the warm season or in a room with heating;
• All rough finishing works, namely, plastering of walls and ceiling, floor screed installation must be completed;
• If the partition is not planned for electrical wiring and plumbing, then these works must be completed;
• If electrical wiring and plumbing are planned in the partition, then communications must be laid to the installation site of the partition;
• When laying communications in a partition, it is necessary to ensure their safety and not damage them on the sharp edges of the profiles or screws when attaching sheets. That is, the electrical wiring must be laid in an electrical corrugation or pipe, and the water supply must be protected with bushings;
• The frame in the doorways is strengthened with a wooden beam for durable hanging of the doors;

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Partition frame

• The guide profiles of the metal frame of the partition are attached to the floor, walls, ceiling through a sealing tape, such as Dichtungsband. It increases the sound insulation of the partition and plays the role of a layer from deformation. In other words, if you put a layer, then the joints between the sheets will not crack after puttying and painting;
• Rack-mounted partition profiles are installed after 60 cm (between the centers of the profiles). For short partitions, the distance between the uprights can be reduced to 40/30 cm;

• The height of the rack profile must be 10 mm less than the actual distance between the guide profiles on the floor and ceiling. That is, the rack profile should freely enter between the guides, it does not need to be hammered;
• It is advisable to use a special tool for drywall to connect the profiles - a cutter. Alternative to the notcher, connection with screws LN 19 mm;
• Mineral wool is used for soundproofing partitions;

Drywall sheets and their fastening

• Sheets of drywall, which will sheathe the frame of the partition, must be brought into the room for acclimatization;
• A joint is attached to the frame of drywall sheets. The joint should fall in the middle of the profile, with the exception of the extreme profiles;
• The second layer of drywall is displaced by a multiple of the distance between the uprights (the "spread" of the sheets). The run-up cannot be less than 400 mm;
• When using drywall sheets with a straight, rather than a folded edge, folds, 20 × 2 mm, must be removed from the edge of the sheet. They are needed for better putty joints;
• Drywall sheets are attached to the frame with TN type screws. The screw is recessed into the sheet by 1-2 mm. This is necessary for better puttying;
• The screw should go straight into the frame, clinging to it by 10 mm;
• For single-layer sheathing, screws TN 25-30 mm are used. Mounting pitch 250 mm;
• With two-layer sheathing, the first layer is fastened with 30 mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm. The second layer is fastened with TN45 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm;
• In three-layer partitions, the first layer is fastened with 30 mm screws, with a pitch of 750 mm, the second layer with a pitch of 500 mm, with TN45 mm screws, the third layer with TN55 mm screws, with a pitch of 250 mm.

Partition finishing

• Before puttying, the edges and joints of the sheets are primed;
• Before puttying the common surface, the joints are glued with a sickle with putty. If necessary, puttying the seams is done twice. With multi-layer sheathing of the partition, internal joints do not need to be glued;
• The surface of the partition is puttied two-three-four times. The last layer of putty is finishing.

Partitions in wet areas

• In wet rooms, moisture-resistant drywall is used for partitions;
• The junctions partition ceiling, partition-wall, partition-floor are glued with tape and covered with sealing mastic.

It's all rules for installing plasterboard partitions which I would like to present in this article.

The main task of repair in most houses and apartments is to bring the walls back to normal. Indeed, a couple of decades ago, almost no one thought about perfectly even walls. Aligned on the principle of "at least somehow." You can correct the situation according to all the rules: knock down the old plaster and completely plaster over the lighthouses. This is correct and reliable. But long, dirty, expensive. It is easier to use the so-called dry methods: to level the surface of the wall with drywall (gypsum plasterboard). The second task that often has to be solved during the repair process is redevelopment. We remove old partitions, put new ones. New interior and decorative partitions are also made using drywall. How to align and install drywall walls with your own hands and we will tell in the article.

How to sheathe walls with drywall

To begin with, consider the case when you need to level the surface of existing walls. There are three options for attaching drywall to walls:

The latest technology - installing drywall on glue - is the fastest, but it also has drawbacks. The first is that not everywhere there is glue under the finish, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is problematic. If you plan to fasten something to the wall in advance, lay a continuous layer of glue at this height or install a mortgage beam, which will also be an additional beacon when setting the sheet level. Then the problem will be solved. Another disadvantage is that there are small differences. That is, the surface turns out to be imperfect. There is a difference of 2-3 mm. Between the "pieces" of glue, the sheet bends slightly. However, it's not a bad way to quickly level a wall.

For more information on how to glue drywall on the wall, see the video.

Fastening to the frame

Since no fasteners are needed when gluing drywall to the wall, we will talk about the frame and mostly metal. The rules for fastening to wood are the same, just use self-tapping screws for wood.

GKL dimensions and purpose

A few words about what sizes the sheets are and how to put drywall on the walls. The standard dimensions are as follows: the width is always 1.2 m, the height is 2.5 and 3 meters. Sometimes there is a “non-standard” of shorter length: it is easier to work with small ones, but more seams are obtained, which then have to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 12.5 mm - universal material for walls and ceilings;
• 6 mm and 9 mm for curved surfaces.

It is often said that 9 mm sheets are ceiling. But manufacturers do not have such recommendations. Any of the manufacturers positions thin sheets as those used for finishing curved surfaces.

Bevels are made along the long edges of the sheet. They are needed so that the joint can be glued with reinforcing tape and sealed with putty. It is the side where there is a bevel that is the front. It is deployed inside the room.

How to dock

If you need to join the sheets in height, arrange the joints so that you do not get a long longitudinal line. They say that the sheets are laid apart or with a shift. At the same time, it is desirable that the displacement be at least 40-60 cm. Long joints are the most likely places for cracks to appear. By shifting the seam, you will get rid of cracks with almost 100% probability (see the figure for an example of laying sheets).

If the wall is sheathed with two layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet located on top should be installed so that the junction of the bottom one falls on its middle (shift by half the width - 60 cm).

What to fasten and with what step

During installation, the sheet is pressed against the frame and fixed with a screwdriver and special self-tapping screws with flat heads. If the frame is assembled from metal, take TN25 self-tapping screws (3.5x25 mm). In stores, they are called “for drywall”. Length - 25 mm, color - black (more likely to break) or white. For a frame made of wood, they are selected close in size with the flattest head: there will be less putty.

It is important to tighten the fasteners to the desired depth during installation: the cap must be recessed into the sheet, but the cardboard must not tear. It is also necessary that the self-tapping screw be installed strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet: there is less chance of damaging the cardboard layer, which in this design is responsible for rigidity.

To learn how to simplify the work and make sure that the screw goes to the desired depth, watch the video.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the distance between the posts must be at least 60 cm. Then it turns out that each sheet is attached to three vertical profiles: two along the edges and one in the middle. In this case, the edge of the sheet falls on the middle of the profile.

Stepping back from the edge of 10-12 mm, screws are screwed in. They can be placed, as in the figure above, one opposite the other, or they can be offset, as in the figure below. The installation step is 250-300 mm. Mounted around the perimeter and along the middle profile.

Another important point: when cutting sheets, keep in mind that its height should be 10-12 mm shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. This is necessary in case of shrinkage: so that the wall or partition has the ability to compensate for the change in height without cracks (especially true for wooden and panel houses).

These are, perhaps, all the main points of working with drywall (excluding the features of installing profiles).

Drywall partition

Installing the partition is somewhat more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step with a photo.

markup

First mark the place of installation of the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser plane builder (laser level). This line is applied to the walls, floor and ceiling.

If there is no laser level, you will have to use the usual construction (good quality) and a plumb line. First, mark the line on the floor - this is the easiest. Then, using a level, transfer it to the walls. If both lines on the walls are vertical, the line connecting them must be exactly above the line on the floor. Like it or not, you can check with a plumb line, lowering it from the mark on the ceiling to the floor line.

Partition marking using a level and a plumb line

It is necessary to achieve a perfect match - the quality of all work depends on this.

Frame assembly

We will consider the assembly of the frame from galvanized profiles. Guide profiles are installed along the marked line on the floor and ceiling. It is marked UW or PN - bearing profile. They are most often fastened with dowels - 6 * 40 mm or 6 * 60 mm, the distance between two dowels is 30-40 cm.

PN-profile has a standard depth (wall height) - 40 mm, but can be of different widths 50 mm, 75 mm or 100 mm. The thickness of the partition depends on the width of the supporting profile, as well as how thick the insulation and / or soundproofing material can be laid there.

Bearing racks are inserted into the guide profiles. They are labeled CW or PS - rack-mount profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves make it more rigid, increasing the load-bearing capacity. The width of the rack profiles depends on the width of the carriers: they must be the same. That is, the racks must be the same width. It is between them that a heater is then installed.

Racks to the rails are attached in two ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work with a cutter - a special tool that breaks through and bends metal to the sides, holding two parts together. Amateur builders, when working with drywall on their own, attach to “fleas” (also called bugs and seeds) - small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom - TEX 9.5 (3.5 * 9.5 mm). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (no need to drill holes). Racks are fixed on each side with at least two self-tapping screws.

One moment: if you put a partition in a high-rise building or on the first floor of your house, then put a special film or some kind of material between the junction of the rack and the ceiling rail, which will prevent squeaking. When people walk, there are vibrations that are transmitted to the profiles, because of which they rub and creak. The second option is to make the racks 1 cm shorter. It is more correct: the shrinkage of the house is provided and there are no unpleasant sounds.

Rack spacing is 60 cm or less. This distance is due to the width of the drywall sheet (drywall), which is standardly 120 cm. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that each sheet is attached to three racks. So it turns out that there should be 60 cm between the verticals.

If the gap between the two posts is more than 60 cm, but less than 120 cm, a vertical profile is still placed between them in the middle, otherwise this section will “bump” - the sheet will stagger and sag. Another point: the first rack is attached to the wall a little closer - the first sheet will be attached to the entire plane of the extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less - 57.5 cm.

It is advisable to strengthen the profiles to which doors or windows will be attached. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of a suitable size. It is inserted inside, and attached to a pair of self-tapping screws. You need to use dry wood so that the beam does not twist.

After all the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are given greater rigidity with the help of jumpers - horizontally installed pieces of rack profiles. They are made in one of the three ways suggested in the photo. The third option is the easiest to manufacture and easy to install.

Jumpers are usually located at the height where two sheets will be joined. Their edges are necessarily fixed, so jumpers are necessary there. For the rest - in increments of 60-80 cm. If the wall is large - put it in 60 cm, if it is small, 80 cm is enough. Crossbars are required above the doorway: at the height of the door frame. It is also desirable to strengthen them by putting a wooden block inside.

Laying communications

After installing all the crossbars, you can start laying communications and electrical wiring. It is desirable to mount all electrical wires in a corrugated sleeve. If you put a partition in a wooden house or on a wooden frame, it must be metal. In houses made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized steel frame, it is allowed to use plastic corrugated hoses from non-combustible raw materials (there is a “NG” mark).

Plasterboard sheathing and heat/sound insulation

After laying communications, they begin to install drywall sheets. They are mounted in the same way as when sheathing. Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall sheathing begins on one side. Then, on the other hand, a heater and / or a sound insulator are installed between the profiles (bars) of the frame. After its installation, the GKL wall is sewn up on the other side.

Insulation for walls and partitions made of drywall use the usual:

In principle, it is possible to use other heaters, but the ones listed are the most popular.

How to cut drywall

When making drywall walls with your own hands, you will have to cut sheets: they do not always become whole. To do this, you will only need a sharp clerical knife (for paper), a long, even object - a ruler, board, beam, level, rule, etc. And a wooden block a couple of meters long, but it's not necessary, it's just easier with it. That's all. A jigsaw may be needed when cutting curved lines, but there will be a lot of dust.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

• draw a line on the front side with a pencil along which drywall should be cut;
• we apply a ruler (bar, board) along the line and cut the cardboard with a clerical knife;
• we put a bar under the cut line;
• on the shorter side we tap with the palm of our hand, because of which the gypsum breaks along the cut line;
• break the sheet along the entire length of the cut;
• bend the broken piece, cut the remaining whole cardboard.

Everything is really very simple. The main task: to mark correctly. There are no further problems (unless the sheet is broken).

Video lessons

Not all subtleties can be described, some are better to see. We have selected videos in which there are features of working with drywall. They mainly concern the assembly of the frame from profiles. This is really the hardest part. And on how correctly the frame is made, it depends on how even the wall or partition will be.

How to make a false plasterboard wall

How to make reinforced racks in the partition. This frame assembly method is non-standard, but this does not mean that it is wrong. Racks are really more rigid. This is necessary if you are building a full-fledged interior partition from drywall. This is where reinforcement comes in handy. The disadvantages are that it will take more time, and the cost of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: smooth or grooved. There are different models of profiles on the market, including those with uneven, but rough walls and sidewalls. With an equal thickness of the metal, it is more rigid, which seems to be good. But how good is he at work? Watch the video.

Drywall partition from start to finish. Here the installation of the partition is filmed step by step. Everything is quite affordable, you can take it as a basis and build plasterboard walls with your own hands.