It is difficult to carry out construction work without loess, especially if it is necessary to carry out them at a high altitude. The design will help you safely climb the elevation, do everything you need to do, put nearby materials that will help you in your business. It is inconvenient to rent construction loess from a profile pipe, as it will constantly draw funds, which some may not like. Alternatively, the loess can be made by hand. They will be made as convenient for the owner, provide the ability to climb to the desired height.
Types of loess
There are several types of loess that you can do yourself. Metal pipes are suitable for manufacturing; you can add boards to the structure. If you make everything from wood, it will be much cheaper than metal. But such installations will not be able to withstand a significant load, there is a possibility of breakage with a large weight installed on them. 
In time, the metal frame will take longer, but gradually the costs of its manufacture will be covered by a reliable service. If necessary, the structure can be disassembled, rebuilt. In addition to wood, there are other types of loess:
1. Clamp. Priority, they are used to work with buildings that have a complex configuration. It is problematic to assemble such products, but there is an option to bend them as required.
2. Wedge. A considerable mass can be stacked on them.
3. Pin headers. It is enough to simply assemble and disassemble them. They are suitable for small construction work that does not require serious preparation.
4. Frame. Their advantage is lightness, ease of assembly. They can be collected very high, up to 50 meters. They can withstand about 200 kg for each meter of the base surface. In construction, they are used most often, because it is not difficult to make them with your own hands.
Important:DIY construction loess from a profile pipe, should not be subjected to significant loads. It is not recommended to stand on them together.
Loess making
Making a loess from pipes is not difficult at all. To do this, you need to select the required elements, connect them in the correct sequence. To speed up the work, it is recommended to purchase and prepare the required parts in advance. After that, you will only need to do certain actions with them and combine them into one structure.
Materials for making loess
To make loess, the drawings of which are given in the material, you need steel racks and frames. The footrest is made of planks. Can be made of aluminum, but less stress will be obtained. The recommended height of one section is 150 cm; it is most convenient to make about a meter in width. The length will be 1.5-2 meters. In height, it is necessary to make scaffolding depending on the height of the house.
Before starting the assembly of the structure, it is necessary to purchase materials for manufacturing. You will need:
- Profiles 1.5 m long and 3x3 cm in cross section. They are suitable for making vertical edges.
- Pipes 15 mm in diameter, which will serve for the construction of spacers.
- Profile for connecting elements. Section 2.5x2.5 cm. The flooring will be supported on these elements.
- Ladder. You can insert a ready-made one, but if not, you can also execute it from a profile.
- Bolts, nuts and washers that will hold each element in place. Self-tapping screws to connect wooden parts.
For work, you will need to use a drill, grinder or hacksaw for metal, welding. Connections can be made by making threads in the required elements. The ground at the installation site must be well compacted so that there are no distortions during the manufacturing process. If the work takes place in the rain, you should think about making a drainage system. The earth under the loess will be strong, there will be no danger to people at the height.
It is important to remember that even minimal wobble at the joints of parts leads to a strong tilt of the elements higher and the construction may slow down due to the inability to rise to a height. Therefore, all elements must be connected reliably, efficiently.
Loess collection
The construction loess is assembled in the following order:
1. First, you need to cut the workpieces: the diagonal parts holding the structure together, 2 meters each. They need to be cut along the edges and flattened about 6-7 cm. Horizontal elements - 1 meter each.
2. 2 vertical uprights are connected with spacers. They should be located strictly horizontally.
3. The horizontal parts are connected with ties, at a distance of about 30 cm. Then the boards will be laid there.
4. The connecting parts are secured.
5. Bolt holes must be drilled on the supports.
6. The structure is assembled completely, with boards. Wooden elements are connected with self-tapping screws. The diagrams will help you understand what and how to do.
It makes sense to paint the scaffolds to make them last longer. If the structure is planned to be often disassembled and assembled, you can connect the elements using adapters. It is necessary to cut pipes 3x3 cm by 10 cm. A piece of profile 2.5x2.5 cm is inserted into them and the elements are welded. 
Many people wonder whether it is worth doing scaffolding on their own. On the one hand, this design is bulky, you have to look for a place to store all the parts. If you make everything out of wood, you can simply disassemble the parts, but it takes a long time. Wooden loess is connected only with nails, not self-tapping screws. The boards will be intact after work, they can be used for other needs.
On the other hand, if construction work will be carried out frequently, and the height is at the level of the second floor and beyond, you cannot do without your own loess.
When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at a height, and therefore one cannot do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution is to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you do not have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They are made of wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.
Scaffolding design and types
Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:
- support posts;
- stairs;
- decks and lintels for him;
- enclosing railings;
- stops;
- horizontal and diagonal braces.
Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all the details are knocked together with nails. At the same time, such scaffolds are not designed for heavy loads, their dismantling takes time, and re-assembly will be less durable, since holes from the nails remain in the beams. Scaffolding made of metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily extended if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.
Wedge forests There are 4 main types of scaffolding depending on the fastening methods.
Table. Types of forests
| Types of forests | Description |
|---|---|
| frame | metal structures made of vertical frames, fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffolds are lightweight and easy to install. |
| wedge | very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders |
| pin | rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but are too expensive and put a lot of pressure on the ground |
| yoke | they are versatile scaffolding, perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite laborious, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically |
How to collect wood scaffolding
To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there must be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the racks, the width of the flooring is at least 1 m, and the total height of the scaffolding is a maximum of 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.
To work you will need:
- timber 100x100 mm;
- boards 30 mm thick;
- boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
- nails;
- hammer;
- level;
- roulette;
- Circular Saw.
The wood must be firm and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier, moreover, it can deform after drying. Since the scaffolding is required only for the construction or decoration of the house, it is not necessary to treat them with antiseptic compounds and do not need to sand.
Step 1. Making the frame
4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and placed on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m and 2 beams of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: smaller ones along the upper edge, 4-meter ones - along the bottom. You should get two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.
Step 2. Assembling the frame
The frames are raised, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with the sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m.Check the location of the sidewalls horizontally with the building level, and if everything is correct, they firmly knock down the frame with nails. The finished structure should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls from a bar.
Step 3. Installation of the flooring
The floorboards must be nailed to the upper cross-bars. It is best to fill them along the width of the frame; boards are laid close, without gaps at the joints. Additional cross-members are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.
Prices for various types of building boards
Construction boards
Assembling metal scaffolding
In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks are suitable for the manufacture of sections; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section is 1.5 m high, 1 m wide and 1.65 to 2 m long.
For work you will need:
Step 1. Preparing the spacers
Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of the horizontal ones is 96 cm, the diagonal ones are 2 m. After that, 6 cm long cuts are made at the ends of the two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the struts to the studs.
Step 2. Making adapters
To build up the scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from shaped pipes: pipes 25x25 mm are cut into pieces with a length of 30 cm, and workpieces with a length of 8 cm are cut from pipes 30x30 mm. Short workpieces are put on long ones and welded in the middle to eliminate shifts.
Step 3. Assembling the frame
Two vertical struts are interconnected by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The resulting frame is in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. Square plates of 70x70 mm are cut out of sheet metal and welded flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the racks of the section will not fall into the ground, although on soft soils, dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.
Step 4. Section installation
Two frames are installed vertically opposite one another and diagonal struts are tried on. The attachment points are marked with a marker, then holes for bolts are drilled in the racks and spacers. Connect all parts to each other and check the horizontal level of the upper crossbars with the level. If the design is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to resist on the scaffolding.
Step 5. Making the flooring
Decking boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse decking, horizontal pipes are bolted to the sides of the structure at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, boards are taken at least 2 m long, knocked down along the width of the section, reinforced from below with transverse bars from deflection.
To prevent the flooring from moving during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be fixed at its ends along the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark a line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. In the same way, markings are made from the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile with a width of 17-20 mm, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it to the boards with self-tapping screws on the marked lines. Now, when the deck is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will prevent the boards from sliding.
Step 5. Painting the forests
Metal scaffolds are designed for reusable use, which means they need protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, the frame is covered with corrosion from dampness, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolds, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring is also treated and painted to protect it from moisture and decay.
Prices for poles, shaped pipes
Poles, shaped pipes
Video - DIY scaffolding
Before making scaffolding with your own hands, evaluate all the advantages and disadvantages of this structure. While such self-made construction ancillaries help save money, their safety and practicality are questionable. In this article, we will show you how to make wooden scaffolding, and we will carry out a comparative analysis of traditional inventory scaffolding and these structures.
In the photo do it yourself scaffolding
Construction methods
By making your own temporary structures, you can build several types of auxiliary products, which will differ both in purpose and in the materials used for production. Depending on the area of use, homemade scaffolding is divided into:
- structures for renovation and finishing work with a small load on the flooring;
- products for heavy-duty masonry work.
Depending on the materials of self-produced woods, there are:
- metal;
- wooden.
We will consider the manufacturing process for each type of scaffolding separately. But in any case, the greatest attention must be paid to the safety of auxiliary structures. If the scaffolding manufacturing process was carried out in accordance with all the rules, then there is no doubt about the reliability and functionality of the scaffolding. Before making scaffolding with your own hands, you need to study the regulatory documentation, because this type of temporary structures must necessarily comply with GOSTs and SNiPs.
Of course, you can buy home-made scaffolding, but this way you cannot be 100% sure of the quality of the materials used to assemble the scaffolding, in their reliability and compliance with the requirements of the current regulatory documents.
DIY scaffolding made of wood
The most important thing in the manufacture of wooden scaffolding is the observance of the verticality of the rack elements or the desired angle of inclination when manufacturing low structures from boards. In any case, making scaffolding from boards with your own hands, you must adhere to this rule. This is the only way you can be sure of the stability and safety of the structure.
In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding from boards
For the manufacture of vertical supporting elements of such structures, it is better to take boards with a thickness of 4 cm.But when using a beam of 100x100 mm, the structure will turn out to be much stronger and more reliable. In order for the product to be stable and could not accidentally fold during operation, it is better to use double diagonal ties in each span. It is better to mount the diagonals so that they are fixed to several posts and to the walls of the object at once.
Homemade wooden scaffolding has one distinct advantage - the material of the scaffolding can be used for other purposes after the structure is dismantled. But do not forget that renting scaffolding will save you money and time, as well as get the most durable, stable and safe structure that fully complies with all the requirements of regulatory documents.
Step-by-step instructions for assembling wooden scaffolding
The attached do-it-yourself wood scaffolding drawings will help you better understand the process. We carry out the work in the following order:
We have already figured out how to make scaffolding with our own hands from wood, it remains to calculate the consumption of materials. Of course, in each specific case, the calculation should be carried out taking into account the dimensions of the temporary structure. So that you have an idea of the amount of materials, we will give a calculation for a structure with dimensions of 300x200x40 cm.So, you will need 6 meters of edged boards with a section of 20x4 cm for assembling a working floor, as well as 36 m of a bar with a section of 150x100 mm for the manufacture of support posts. We can then calculate the total cost of homemade forests based on the price of one cubic meter of timber.
A video on how to build scaffolding with your own hands will help you better understand the assembly process.
In the photo, do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood
DIY scaffolding from pipes
To do this type of auxiliary structures with your own hands, you must use steel pipes with a diameter of 4-6 cm with a large wall thickness. Clamp fasteners can be used to connect tubular elements into one structure. Detailed drawings for do-it-yourself scaffolding from pipes can be found on the Internet.
Usually, self-made temporary steel structures are obtained with a height of no more than 6-8 m, since there are difficulties with the purchase and delivery of a long pipe to the installation site. The insignificant height is, perhaps, the main disadvantage that do-it-yourself metal scaffolding has. If you need to perform work at height, it is much easier to buy or rent ready-made factory scaffolding.
DIY scaffolding drawings
Making scaffolding with your own hands is justified only when building a small country house, dacha or cottage. For professional developers and large construction companies, it is most advisable to purchase ready-made sets of auxiliary equipment, which will be distinguished by their strength, reliability and safety, and most importantly, they can be reused.
Also, metal scaffolding with your own hands can be welded, and not fastened with clamps. However, in this case, you lose. Firstly, the structure cannot be disassembled for storage or for transportation to a new location. Secondly, the resulting rigid scaffolding structure cannot be adjusted for the features of the object under construction: you cannot change the height of the flooring, change the pitch of the racks.
But if you are going to make frame scaffolding with your own hands, then welding may be needed to make frame structural elements. Also on the network you can find drawings explaining how to make pin scaffolding with your own hands.
What to choose?
To understand which is better, do it yourself scaffolding or ready-made traditional temporary structures, you need to know the features of the object under construction and the purpose of the scaffolding. If a large structure is required to be erected, a large team of workers will work, and the loads on the flooring are expected to be significant, then it is much better and safer to use a factory set of auxiliary structures. Moreover, scaffolding for rent also saves money, as well as self-made structures.
DIY pallet scaffolding
Diy scaffolding device: advantages
- Saving. A set of ready-made scaffolds costs at least 150 rubles. per square meter of equipment. Homemade woods are much cheaper, especially if you have the materials to make them.
- If you need temporary structures for one-time use when building your own home, then DIY scaffolding for a summer cottage will be the best option.
- More durable scaffolding with your own hands can be made from a profile pipe. However, this is only justified if you have the materials. It is not profitable to specifically buy a pipe and make forests out of it, especially since you can always rent such equipment.
- Another opportunity to save money can be the purchase of ready-made homemade forests. For example, there are reviews that do-it-yourself Armenian scaffolding is distinguished by an acceptable price and excellent quality.
Disadvantages of homemade forests:
From the proposed photos, you can understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands. But let's list all the disadvantages of such auxiliary structures:
- Factory scaffolds are assembled and dismantled in a couple of hours. It can take a whole day to build homemade scaffolding.
- Difficulties in constructing forests with their own hands do not speak in their favor. In traditional steel structures, all units are calculated and thought out to the smallest detail. In addition, detailed assembly instructions are attached.
- The weight of wooden homemade scaffolding is much more than that of steel prefabricated structures.
How to make scaffolding with your own hands (video):
This is a truly versatile building structure designed for work at heights. The main difference between the scaffold tower and other forests is its high mobility and rather compact dimensions. All this allows not only to work at high heights, but also to move it from one workplace to another in a short time. Sometimes a tour tower is almost irreplaceable, but what if there is no opportunity to buy it at the moment? In this case, there is only one way out, to make it yourself.
What materials will be needed to make a tour tower?
Homemade tour can be made in two versions: collapsible and non-collapsible. The collapsible version is better both in terms of transportation and storage. After all, it is much easier to disassemble the tour and bring it into the room when it is not needed, and then reassemble it when it is needed, than to store it on the street. To make a collapsible tower, you will need the following materials:
Profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - from this pipe, the stands for the tower will subsequently be made;
Ordinary pipe with a diameter of 15mm - this pipe will act as oblique couplers for the tower, which will give it higher strength and reliability;
Profile pipe with a diameter of 25 mm - this pipe will need very little and all of it will be used to create jumpers;
Wheels for tower tours - in fact, they will give the tour high mobility;
How to start making a tower?
The first step is to cut a 15mm pipe into 2m sections, the number of these sections will depend on the number of derrick sections being erected. One section will take 4 such segments. Then these segments need to be flattened at the ends, this is necessary so that it is more convenient to attach them to the tower. In order for them to crumple better, you can make small longitudinal cuts.
The next step is to make stands for the tower, for this you need to cut a 30mm profile pipe into lengths of 1.5m and 0.74m. Cuts 1.5m long (2 per rack) will be the legs of the rack, and 0.74m long (4 per rack) will be steps. Then all this must be welded into a single structure so that the distance between the steps does not exceed 30 cm. Also at this stage, the wheels should be welded to the struts.
The next step will be the manufacture of jumpers for the tower, for this we cut a profiled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm into segments of 20-25 cm, as well as a profiled pipe with a diameter of 30 mm into pieces of 4-6 cm. Then we thread 25mm pieces of 30mm approximately to the middle and fasten them with welding. The final touch before assembling the tower is to drill a hole for the anchor bolt, which will hold the tie rods and posts together.
It is also worth noting that a self-made tour tower is a rather bad alternative to a factory one. It is heavier and less durable and reliable. Self-made towers do not allow working at significant heights and it is rather a temporary short-lived means on which you can work only at your own peril and risk. Therefore, if possible, it is still worth buying a factory-made tour, since they are already not as expensive as before.
The height of a person is less than the height of the house, therefore, it is impossible to perform wall masonry or facade decoration without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to work safely at heights and make it possible to always have a stock of consumables on hand.
Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such fixtures.
They call forests sufficiently long and high structures. Scaffolds "goats" are usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.
If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what kind of scaffolding or scaffolding you will need for work. For our part, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.
Scaffolding design options
Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain elements that are identical in purpose:
- Vertical struts (take the workload and transfer it to the ground).
- Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
- Lintels (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
- Flooring (boards knocked down between themselves, serving as a working platform for builders).
- Stubborn mows (prevent forests from tipping over).
- Railings (protects workers from falling).
- Ladders (used for lifting and lowering from work sites).
The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal.... A wooden structure is cheaper than steel, but it can withstand no more than two or three re-assemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.
Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but there are no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easy to dismantle and move to a new location. Their design allows to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.
If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-rise work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.
Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands
Before starting the procurement of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be put on it.
There is no need to fantasize here, since the construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of the scaffolding:
- maximum construction height - 6 meters;
- the distance between the racks is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
- working floor width - 1 meter.
Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, the jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This saves you the hassle of hammering together low scaffolding.
It is better to provide fastenings for the flooring of the second level at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at the level of 360-400 cm.
If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:
- For cutting racks and thrust braces - a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
- Spacers, ties and railings can be made from thirty edged boards.
- For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.
When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, keep in mind that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling the scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the other hand, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for fracture, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for long and high structures - self-tapping screws.
Scaffolding from boards is collected in the following order:
- on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of a bar or board, cut "to size" according to the height of the scaffolding;
- the racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working floor will be laid;
- the two obtained frames "ladders" are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
- plank flooring is placed on horizontal lintels and fastened;
- scaffolds are fixed on two lateral abutments;
- railings are nailed onto the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for climbing.
If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide pieces of boards, stuffing them onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before hammering.
Profile pipe scaffolding in their design they are similar to wooden ones. The difference between the two lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure.
A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:
- Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 sections of 1.5 m and 4 sections of 1 meter).
- Thin-walled round pipe with a diameter of 20 mm (4 sections of 2 meters for diagonal screeds).
- Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 sections of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of handrails, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
- Steel plates 10x10 cm with a thickness of 2-3 mm (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
- 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal braces to each other and attaching them to the frame posts.
The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:
- to the assembly board (OSB sheet) with clamps, the scaffold stands are rigidly fixed (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor);
- horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
- adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding;
- removing the racks with jumpers from the assembly panel, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position they are again fixed to the panel with clamps;
- the ends and the middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal braces are flattened with a hammer and drilled into holes for bolts;
- tightening the two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes;
- the ties are fixed to the uprights with bolts and tightened with nuts;
- holes are drilled on the posts and railings for bolted connections;
- plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections;
- the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
- on the side jumpers the flooring is laid from the board "forty".
Helpful advice: to prevent the longitudinal displacement of the flooring, steel corners 30x30 mm must be screwed to its bottom at the point of contact with the lintels.
Diagonal ties must be fixed on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.
If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the build-up of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching the profile pipe of the persistent cut, which protects the structure from falling.
In the lower and upper part of the posts of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolds in length).