Installation technology for industrial sectional doors. Installation of sectional garage doors. Measurements for installation

Modern, stylish and practical sectional doors have replaced large, heavy and bulky structures, which greatly simplified the lives of consumers.

Such gates are quite lightweight, easy to install, easy to operate.

The design features of the product allow you to quickly cope with its installation with minimal physical effort and little experience in such work.

To acquire a suitable design, you must first of all make the correct measurements:

the height and width of the opening (the maximum values are taken);
values from the upper part of the opening (lintel) to the ceiling: these measurements will help in the future to determine with which type of installation you need to choose the gate;
the depth of the room, that is, the distance between the front and rear walls;
values from the opening to the left wall;
the distance from the right wall to the opening.

Important! To ensure the maximum accuracy of the indicators, it is recommended to take measurements at a minimum of three points.

If the distortions or inaccuracies in parallel measurements are more than 5 mm, it is necessary to align the walls. It is also important to ensure that the difference in floor level over the entire width of the opening does not exceed 10 mm.

To carry out control and measuring work, you will need a tape measure, a level and a pencil. It should be remembered that the sectional sheet must be mounted in an opening of the correct geometric shape, with a lintel height of at least 300 mm and a sidewall of at least 250 mm.

Gate order

Sectional doors on the construction market are presented in various types and models, which differ in design features, built-in control mechanisms, and cost.

There are several types of designs:

A product consisting of steel shields interconnected with special loops. Thanks to a simple lifting mechanism, mounted on the walls and ceiling, the sash can be easily lifted upwards along the metal rails. In this case, the system of bearings and rollers on a rubberized base is responsible for opening the gate. In the open position, the one-piece sash is horizontally under the ceiling.

The advantages of this type of gate are:

the possibility of saving useful space;
durability in the operation of the product;
excellent sound and heat insulation qualities;
versatility in use;
good resistance to mechanical damage and deformation.

Among the disadvantages of the design are the rather high cost, the need for constant maintenance of the gate, and the ease of breaking.

Did you know? The first overhead sectional doors appeared at the beginning of the last century, in 1921. Their author was the American engineer S. G. Johnson. He was able to provide the structure with the simplest electric drive, due to which the gate began to rise / fall automatically. The first products were made from wood, and only from the end of the 70s wood was replaced by steel.

Roller shutter or roller shutter are a structure in which individual profile strips (lamellas), connected to form an integral web, during opening are wrapped by means of a shaft into a special box in the form of a roll. The material for the production of roll products is aluminum or steel. In addition, the gate is equipped with a mechanical lift system, which may be needed in the event of a power outage.

Key advantages of roller shutters:

ease of installation;
compact size of the product;
aesthetic external indicators;
the possibility of mounting a mechanism for automatic control;
affordable cost;
protection from dust, wind;
long service life.

Among the disadvantages are: low resistance to burglary, poor thermal insulation performance, low resistance to frost.

Gates- made in the form of a one-piece shield covering the entire opening. Due to the integrated steel frame, the sash can be positioned under the ceiling, 90 ° from its original position. The frame is considered to be the basis of the structure, which is made of high quality, durable and reliable steel. The gates, for ease of operation, are supplied with an electric drive, which allows you to open / close them without leaving the transport.

The advantages of such designs include:

excellent protection against penetration and burglary;
durability, due to the use of high-quality steel, resistant to weathering;
the ability to install automatic systems;
the possibility of decorative facing of the gate.

The disadvantages are: the possibility of installing the gate only in rectangular openings, the need to completely replace the sash if any of its parts is damaged, a limited number of applications per day (recommended no more than 10 times).

- a structure consisting of two canvases hinged to rigid posts made of one-piece steel strapping. Capital gates can be opened outward and inward.

Such gates have a number of advantages:

reliability and strength of the structure;
high rates of thermal insulation;
the possibility of installing an electric drive;
possibility of installation in confined spaces.

The gates are not devoid of disadvantages: rather outdated design, short service life in comparison with other models, the need to regularly check the hinges and steel frame.

Folding gates are a structure of vertical aluminum panels. In the open position, the product resembles a screen.

Folding gates have the following advantages:

the ability to install in any room, regardless of height and width;
maintainability and the ability to replace any of the panels;
low cost.

The disadvantages of the model are: low protection against penetration, poor wear resistance of the sashes.

When choosing a sectional door, the main thing is to evaluate the advantages and disadvantages of each model. For this, the following aspects must be taken into account:

Polymeric material that covers the product. It must be of high quality in order to protect the structure from the harmful effects of external factors. Experts recommend giving preference to powder coating.
Anti-corrosion properties. To purchase a gate that will last for many years without losing its appearance and functionality, you need to pay attention to the quality and resistance to atmospheric phenomena of all metal elements, including hinges, springs, frame, the canvas itself.
Heat and sound insulation. If it is necessary to maintain good thermal performance in the room and reduce the noise level, experts recommend paying attention to the thickness of the panels and the presence of a seal.
Anti-burglary properties. The gates, which are aimed at providing reliable protection against penetration, are supplied with special mechanisms - anti-burglary locks and dense panels, firmly adhered to each other, which are almost impossible to damage.
Electric drive. When buying structures with an electric drive, you need to make sure that it is equipped with an auto-lock system, which is triggered when a foreign object enters the sash. Also, the electric drive must have a mechanism that slows down the speed of movement, which will make it possible to reduce the load while lowering the web.

Equipment preparation

The installation of sectional works, although it requires certain skills and abilities, is still quite within the power of any master who has even the slightest idea of the design features. In the process of performing the work, you will need the following equipment:

tape measure and level for taking the necessary measurements;
a pencil for marking;
hammer for driving in nails or dowels;
screwdrivers: universal and terminal;
side cutters required to shorten the cable;
riveting gun for fixing profiles and side panels;
sharp construction knife;
wrenches for screed connections of various types;
grinder for fitting the sizes of fasteners;
perforating drill with a set of drills for metal and drills for concrete bases;
fittings with a diameter of 12-14 mm, which will be needed to start the torsion mechanism.

Also, do not forget about the preparation of personal protective equipment: gloves, helmets, glasses, a suit, which will help to protect the master.

Before proceeding with the installation of the gate, it is necessary to properly prepare the opening itself. Also, when choosing a design, you need to take into account the fact that for installation it is highly desirable to have a lintel, the height of which should be 200-500 mm. If there is no headroom or very low, it will be very difficult to install the gate. However, there are gates, the design of which consists of tension springs, which makes it possible to mount them with a headroom of 100 mm.

There are a number of requirements that the walls of the opening must meet:

walls located around the opening must be in the same plane;
it is preferable that the walls in the room be made of brick or concrete, since it is not reliable to fasten the guides to the foam blocks; in such cases, additional strapping with a steel corner will be needed;
it is better to install the canvas when the floor is prepared - then the sealant will adhere closely to the floor, which will ensure the most accurate installation of the guides;
if the floor is not yet ready, you need to order (buy) the gate, taking into account the dimensions of the floor and the error, no more than 100 mm.

The load-bearing function belongs to the ceiling and the transverse lintel above the opening, therefore the lightweight ceiling structure cannot be used for sectional doors. The depth must be greater than the height of the web:

by 500 mm - for mechanically controlled doors;
by 1000 mm - for constructions with an electric drive.

Also, for gates with an electric drive, it is recommended to determine the location of the socket for connecting to the mains. If the cast ceilings have irregularities, then the minimum value of the distance between the floor and the ceiling is taken as an indicator of the height of the room. The same principle is taken into account when calculating the size of the opening if there are communications on the ceiling that cannot be transferred - for example, bevels, ceilings, etc.

Important! If the lintel has irregularities in height, they are leveled by any convenient method: by means of a grinder, laying bars, mixtures for plaster.

If there is a problem of increasing the height of the opening, it is solved based on the structure of the roof. When the lintel acts as a load-bearing support, temporary supports or a load-bearing metal contour are installed.

If the floor panels are located across the ceiling and lie on the walls on the sides, then you can increase the height by carefully cutting or knocking out part of the opening. After completing the work, it is recommended to reinforce the new frame with a metal profile.

Sectional doors are very sensitive even to the slightest differences and distortions, therefore, the surfaces should be leveled as much as possible, as well as the points of attachment of the profiles horizontally and vertically, with the help of which the fixation and direction of movement of the panels will be carried out.

Video: how to prepare an opening before installing a sectional door

Installing the guides

Before starting the installation, markings should be made on the opening on both sides, at a distance of 1 m from the zero mark. From it you need to draw two vertical stripes, which will indicate the attachment points of the guides.

Vertical

Installation of vertical guides starts with the installation of sealing inserts and their trimming, if necessary. If the inserts were included with the gate, they do not need to be dimensioned.

The next step is the bolting of the support posts and the cover strip.

Important! The gate frame must be formed in a horizontal position, on a flat floor.

Fastening of vertical guides is carried out strictly according to the instructions, using self-tapping screws, screws, depending on the type of walls. The skew of the profile location in height should not be more than 3 mm, vertically - 1 mm for every 1 m of length.

If the deviations exceed these values, the frame must be leveled using metal pads. It is strictly forbidden to use polyurethane foam or wooden blocks for this purpose.

Horizontal

The guides are fixed horizontally according to the following algorithm:

The guide is connected to the radius profile and attached to the support post.
In parallel, in the same way, fix another guide.
The horizontal profiles are fixed to the ceiling by means of suspensions. The front one is placed at a distance of 900 mm from the opening, the rear one - at a distance of 300 mm from the edge. The rest are placed at the same length from each other.
The parts that protrude are trimmed. From time to time, check the equality of the position of the profiles along the diagonal.
Install the rear jumper.

If you purchase a gate with a vertical type of opening, then there are no guides for the horizontal in the kit.

When using a level, make sure that the torsion bar is mounted strictly parallel to the floor. It is located in the support brackets. Next, the springs need to be placed on the shaft. On the surface of the drum, on one side, it is necessary to drill a hole where the cable will go. There are drums already with pre-drilled holes, so you can skip this step.
The next step is to install the drums on the shaft. The drums are specially marked - right and left - for proper placement.
The assembled unit must be fixed to the surface using brackets and self-tapping screws.
The installation must be strictly horizontal, compliance with this requirement is checked by the level The flange of the end of the spring is fastened by means of bolts.
After that, the lower section of the door should be installed strictly at the level. Then it is necessary to pull the cables through the drums and fix them with a crimp sleeve or screw. Care must be taken to ensure that both cables have the same tension.

The springs are charged in this way:

Two knobs must be installed in the special holes at the end of the springs.
The direction of twisting of the springs should coincide with the direction of their curls, that is, for the right spring, twisting is carried out counterclockwise, for the left - clockwise.
The coils of the spring are twisted to the level indicated on the spring (as a rule, this level is indicated by a red stripe).
After the springs are charged, they are fixed by placing supports under the mounting knobs. Next, tighten the bolts of the end of the springs and pull out the wrenches.

It is important to carry out the installation of the balancing mechanism system strictly in accordance with the instructions for each specific type of sectional sheet.

Installation of controls and lifting mechanisms

Depending on the manufacturer, the installation of controls and lifting mechanisms in sectional doors will not differ significantly.

"Dorhan" (doorhan)

"Dorhan" - Russian-made designs, specially designed for use in the climate of the region. Used for garage and industrial doors. They are characterized by a modern design, excellent sound and heat insulation properties, and the presence of an anti-corrosion coating.

The gates of this brand have two types of mechanisms:

Installation of the torsion mechanism is carried out as follows:

The mechanism is placed in U-shaped brackets and additionally supported with internal brackets.
If the shaft is being installed, which consists of two parts, then a clutch is used to adjust the tension of the cable.
Both parts of the shaft are connected with a coupling by installing the key in special grooves. Tighten the bolts that connect both parts of the coupling.
The torsion bar is mounted so that the lamella with the bearing is flush with the outer wall of the bracket. A retaining ring is put on the shaft.
The plate with the bearing is attached to the U-shaped bracket by means of bolts. The fixation of the mechanism from the parallel side is carried out in a similar way.

Such a torsion bar is designed for an average of 25,000 open / close cycles.

Video: how to test a torsion spring

As for the installation of the spring mechanism, then everything is simple:

The springs are tightened to the level indicated on it with a red marking strip. The number of revolutions required is noted in the instructions.
After charging the springs, they are fixed by placing supports under the adjusting knobs.

Video: installation of garage doors with tension springs DoorHan RSD01

"Alutech"

Belarusian gates Alutech are one of the leaders in Europe in terms of sales. They are distinguished by reliability, safety, anti-burglary system, long operating period.

Alutech sectional canvases are also equipped with a torsion bar and tension springs. A standard set of doors provides for the presence of a special device - a ratchet clutch, the main task of which is to block the shaft in the event of a breakdown.

The design of the lifting mechanism is as follows:

the main element is the clutch, which makes it possible to rotate the two parts of the shaft and thereby adjust the tension of the cable;
hinges have a concave shape, which makes it possible to increase the reliability and strength of the panel connection;
for fastening, roller brackets are used, which regulate the level of adhesion of the sandwich panels to the openings;
a rubber seal is installed around the entire perimeter of the web, allowing to achieve good tightness.

Devices with tension springs are used for domestic purposes, in small areas. In such models, the springs are placed in pairs on both sides between the vertical profiles and the sashes. The service life of the springs is 25,000 cycles. If the doors are opened no more than 4 times per day, such a structure can function for about 17 years.

A feature of Alutech doors is that they have a special system “spring in spring”, which provides protection against spring jumping out of the guides if one of them fails. In addition, the installation of sectional leaves with springs can be carried out in openings of almost any height.

Video: installation of Alutech sectional doors

Did you know? The history of the Alutech company began in the late 90s of the last century. At that time, the enterprise, which employed only six people, was able to produce roller-type sectional doors for the first time in Belarus. Today it is a successful holding holding a leading position in the market not only in Belarus, but also in European countries.

"Herman"

Hormann - products from a German manufacturer. A special feature is considered to be increased strength characteristics, safety, improved protection against burglaries, and high thermal insulation values.

The torsion mechanism of the Hormann door provides for the presence of two large springs, which are responsible for the balance of the leaf and the easy movement of the rollers along the guides. Even if you let go of the sash, it will not fall, but "hang" at some distance from the floor. The number of lifting cycles is 25,000.

Torsion bar models are used for industrial purposes. For household purposes, webs with tension springs are used, boxes with which are provided complete with guides. The springs perform similar functions to the torsion bar, but are less intense. On average, the number of lifting cycles is 10,000-15,000.

Video: Hormann sectional door installation

Before installation, it is necessary to assemble the panels. In most cases, all panels are numbered to make assembly easy. The assembly starts from the bottom panel numbered "1". All lamellas are attached to each other with special loops. The holes for the self-tapping screws are usually already made by the manufacturer.

After the side sections and intermediate hinges are screwed on, the panel should be positioned in the opening. The next step is to screw on the rollers, install them in the corresponding grooves and tighten the fastening screws. After installation in the opening, it is necessary to mount corner brackets, upper roller supports, holders and a cover strip to the extreme section.

Electrical drive installation

The electric drive for sectional doors should be selected based on the size and weight of the structure. The recommended power level is 1/3 of the power used. Almost all automation kits have detailed instructions for installing them.

Installation can be done independently or using the services of professionals. If the decision is made to install on your own, you need to pay particular attention to the following aspects:

Checking the operation of the gate. First of all, you need to check the operation of the curtain, which should move gently, and between the highest point of the gate structure and the ceiling there should be a gap in which the automation will be installed.
Collecting mechanism. According to the instructions, the pilot drive should be assembled. It is important that all elements are involved.
Fastening the guide bar- in the center of the ceiling, opposite the opening, and checking the horizontal level. Automatic mechanisms will be able to work correctly only when the beam is evenly installed.
Fixing the beam. In the rear part of the guide profile, it is necessary to mount the suspension brackets in the ceiling surface using a dowel or anchor.
Installing the drive. On the suspension brackets, the drive with the selected control mechanism must be positioned.
Lever assembly. Next, you should mount the traction arm, so that one part of it is located on the sash, and the second is attached to a cable or chain.
Electrical wiring- the final stage. To do this, you need to install the wires, securely fix them with holders along the ceiling and the lower half of the wall. The entire system must be grounded from the power outlet.

After completing the work, it is recommended to check the operation of the automation and fix the most optimal settings.

Video: how to install automation on a sectional door

Adjusting the tension of the cables

For the sectional door to function properly, it is necessary that the cables are tensioned, both to the same degree. Sagging of the cables is not allowed.

The cables are adjusted according to the following algorithm:

Fix the lower brackets.
Install the key on the blade section.
Secure the drum by tightening the shaft.
Turn the shaft until the slack in the cables is removed. To provide the required tension of the cables, the springs are tightened by an average of 1.5-2 turns. To fix the springs - tighten the springs, bolts and lugs.

If such measures did not lead to the same tension of the cables, and one of them sags, it is recommended to use the method of mutual rotation of the shafts. Since the rotation is carried out by the design of the coupling, it is first recommended to loosen the bolts for the tie and turn the one of the shafts from the side of which the slack has appeared. The other shaft is held in its original position.

If the blades are equipped with a continuous shaft, you can adjust the cables as follows:

Raise the operating panel and fix it securely.
Find the screw that fixes the cable in the drum and loosen it.
Set the length of the cable to the required value, if it sags, reduce the working length.
Firmly fix and tighten the screw.
Return the operating panel to its original position and check the tension of the cables.

Video: how to tension the spring on a sectional door

Installation of gate parts

To restrict the movement of the canvas when it is opened, buffers are installed. To do this, unscrew the bolts and nuts and fix the fastening brackets with embedded plates on the C-profile by means of special bolts. Next, the buffers are installed symmetrically to the axis of the opening.

In turn, the C-profiles are attached to the ends of the horizontal guides using insert plates and bolts with nuts.

Shock absorbers are installed on both sides of the C-profile using guide plates and bolts. The shock absorber should be positioned so that when the gate is opened, its compression ratio is at least 50% of the size of its stroke.

At the last stage, the gate valve is installed. The installation technology is quite simple:

Hole mark for mounting. To mark the places for fastening, you should attach the latch to the canvas at a height convenient for the user. Mark places for installation.
Hole preparation. Using a drill, four holes with a diameter of 4.2 mm are drilled for the screws, and one hole with a diameter of 15 mm to accommodate the bolt of the valve.
Fastening the valve. The latch is fixed to the inner panel using four self-tapping screws.

Important!The valve can be mounted only after the balancing of the curtain.

The main difficulty of installing sectional doors with your own hands is to competently make all the necessary measurements and markings, and also do the work very carefully, slowly, strictly adhering to the instructions and regulations from the manufacturer, in order to avoid further problems during the operation of the structure. A great desire, minimal experience and small creative skills will allow even a non-professional master to correctly and efficiently install the gate, spending only a few hours on it.

So it happened. On Saturday, September 15, I brought the gate in my typewriter. Made to the exact size according to my order.

Alutech gates in dimensions 2500 * 1900 with Nice Shel 50KCE drive. The opening itself is 2500 * 1850 with a lintel of 220 mm. I deliberately ordered 50 mm more, because I heard that the last canvas is not completely removed and reduces the opening in the light.

For Saturday and Sunday, I edited everything, spending a little more than 12 hours in total.

The main plug was with the installation of fasteners under the guides, about 4 hours, due to the fact that the opening was framed by a corner 75 * 6, filled with concrete and plastered. Each hole had to be drilled with a 5-6 mm drill, then 11 mm, then a 10 mm drill. after the drill, they sharpened again, because they blunt against the concrete. And so 16 holes.

And then everything went smoothly. As a result, the correct marking and drilling accuracy made it possible to set the guides straight at once. Diagonally, the difference was 1 mm. Alutech's manual is quite detailed and sufficient for installation. The upper bracket has already been enlarged as much as possible. It took only 2 holes to drill, and those are according to the instructions when installing the bumpers.

I would rate the manufacturing accuracy of the elements at 9 out of 10 only due to the fact that one guide at the end had a slight bend. I had to fix it with a hammer. And something is wrong with the bottom seal, which bulges against the vertical seal when closing. (Photo)

The gate opens easily by hand. But when closing, the last 30-40 cm have to be pressed. As I understand it, this is due to the fact that the upper roller goes to the arcuate guide. Perhaps the point is different, let the experts correct it.

With a declared height of 1900 mm, 1720 mm remains in the clear when fully opened in manual mode. 180 mm eats up the bottom panel, which the spring can no longer pull higher. This is a design overhead.

The installation of the drive took a little over an hour and that is because the instructions are not entirely clear. It seems that every step is in the figure, but somehow ... for example, how to assemble the carriage is clear, but where and how to insert it is not clear, etc.

It is also unclear how to tighten the chain. It seems logical to focus on the sagging of the chain, but the instructions recommend focusing on the sound at low tension and failure of the drive gearbox when tightening. Drop dead :).

Who in the subject, tell me how to pull the chain correctly :)

Learning the remote did not cause any problems either. The instructions from the network in Russian are all very good. well written. I don't understand why there are such negative reviews about Shel. I set the bump stops so that the last canvas would go almost into the horizon. I say almost, because, unexpectedly, the travel limitation here turned out to be not the drive's capabilities, but the fact that the bracket that pulls the top panel rested against the horizontal crossbar at the very end of the horizontal rails. The actuator then learned by itself, doing a full close and full open to the bumpers. By the way, it must be borne in mind that in the future the drive during operation does not reach the bumpers of about 1 cm.

In general, the summary is.

1) The complexity of installation of sectional doors is exaggerated. Why? Guess yourself

2) Anyone who has at least some skill in using a power tool and wrenches can handle and enjoy the result of their labor.

3) When operating manually, it must be borne in mind that the door opening will reduce its clear height by 180 mm. Alas, this is the design.

4) When controlling the drive, the door is pulled out almost completely to the horizon and it is possible even without "almost" if the horizontal cross member is modified.

I will answer any questions to those who wish and not so much. Call, write :).

I'll upload the video to YouTube in the evening :)

https://www.forumhouse.ru/threads/175788/#post-4598059

I installed "Hörmann" about three years ago, I installed it myself, there is nothing complicated ...

When I bought, there was an alternative a little cheaper, Belarusian DOORHANs were somehow ... I read that there were complaints about them ... The drive had 2 options: more powerful and more expensive and also cheaper and weaker ... chose the second one, because the gate is small, 2X2.5 m. It was enough.

There is a plug for an antenna that increases the range of the remote control .. did not connect anything, the remote control takes 5-6 meters without an antenna. Thermal insulation properties of the gate IMHO, below average .. any of a similar plan .. regardless of the thickness .. just in the light from the inside you can see that not everywhere fit snugly and the rubber band around the perimeter (similar to the rubber band of a windshield wiper) protects more from blowing than from cold.

Proceeding from this (and also because of the insufficient * again IMHO * degree of protection), I did not use these gates as the main ones, but installed them in the annex to the garage on the fence line, and in winter and at night I close the hinged insulated internal gates in the opening of the basement of the house.

https://forums.drom.ru/house/t1151729605.html#post1116211992

I got sick. Recently I saw another ass-handed installation in a garage from a cylinder. The rails are screwed directly into the log and foamed. The blockhouse is fresh and naturally sat down. Everything bent and clamped. I decided to write how we do it.

A floating window with insulation must be installed in the opening. A groove is cut out at the end of the log 50x50. A 40x40 bar wrapped in jute is inserted into it. On the sides there is a planed beam 100x diameter of a log. Jute is also applied under the timber with a stapler. The bar is attached with self-tapping screws to the bar 40x40. A planed board 50x the diameter of the log is placed on top. The gap between the top log and the board is 40-50 mm and is filled with jute or tow. Next, a platband is placed on both sides 20x200. All materials for mowing are used dry (moisture content no more than 12%)

But after this procedure, the gates are set and serve happily ever after.

https://www.vorotaforum.ru/threads/6199/

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What is your lintel? This is how communication begins with the person who decided to order a sectional door. The fact is that to place the gate structure, space is required to the right, to the left, and most of all, above the opening. And yes, this place above the gate is the lintel.

The same notorious lintel.

What it should be depends on the following parameters

You have an opening up to 8m2

For small residential garage doors up to 8m2 tension springs are installed. The height of the lintel should be not less than 100mm(for manual lifting) and 125mm for gates with a drive. This is in theory. But in practice, so as not to catch millimeters, do 150mm.

Example of a gate with tension springs. It can be seen how little space the gate occupies above the opening.

You have an opening of more than 8m2

For gate more than 8m2(torsion springs are installed) lintel 210mm, but it's better to do 250mm. Don't forget that walls can be crooked.

Example of a door with torsion springs. Much more space is required above the opening.

Do you want to build a wicket

All doors with a wicket, regardless of size, require a lintel not less than 210mm, (standard installation).

Doors with a wicket door always come with torsion springs.

What if you have a high (more than a meter) headroom?

If you have a headroom of 500 mm or more, you are fabulously lucky, and you have access to the so-called high installation, when the gate first rises as much as possible to the ceiling, and only then leaves parallel to the ceiling. See the picture, so it is clearer.

High mounting. Factory drawing.

Advantage: the gate does not hang over your head, long hangers are not needed.

Disadvantages: the high lift is not available in all series, and you need to pay an additional 8% of the gate price for it.

What if you have a low headroom (less than 210mm)?

And if your headroom is less than 210mm, but you need a gate larger than 8m2, or you need a wicket? Will help you low installation!

This is when the shaft with springs is located at the back, in the back of the garage (see picture). In this case, the minimum lintel size will be 100-130mm, depending on the type of control.

Disadvantage: 5% surcharge.

Low mounting. Factory drawing.

Rule 2. What are your shoulders?

Shoulders are the lateral distances from the edge of the opening to the wall. For household gates, in most cases, you need a minimum of 120mm, it is better to leave 150mm, or more. Otherwise, it will be difficult to crawl with a key in order to tighten the fasteners of the corner posts.

Rule 3. What is your garage depth?

Depth of entry of the gate into the room. A very insidious value. Not always pay attention to it, but if it is not enough, the gate will simply rest against the back wall of the garage. Therefore, we always measure the depth of the garage. It should be at least:

opening height + 400mm (for gates up to 8m2)

opening height + 450mm (for gates larger than 8m2)

opening height + 550mm (if you have a low cut)

opening height - (lintel height + 265mm) + 850 (if you have a high cut)*

* If it is not clear, call us, we will help!

And don't forget about the electric drive! He needs a place too. Depending on the model, and the height of the opening quantity W will be from 3290 to 4400mm. (see table). Or call us, we will help you!

the value of W is the depth of entry of the door structure into the depth of the garage.

The depth of the drive into the garage depends on the brand and manufacturer of the drive.

Rule 4. The opening must be even!

The opening should be in the same plane, without sagging and depressions. Best of all it before installing the gate plaster on the lighthouses.

It is better to plaster such an opening before installing the gate.

Here the customer prudently plastered the plane of the opening.

Places protruding beyond the plane of the opening are indicated by arrows. It is necessary to cut off the base to the vertical line.

Rule 5. There must be where to attach.

If it is concrete, solid brick, or even a foam block, there are no problems. Worse when slotted brick. There are two options - either cook the frame from the corner and attach it to it, or plaster it and attach it to the mortar joint. The first option is more reliable, but more expensive, the second is cheaper, but how lucky. If during the installation process it turns out that the fasteners do not hold, you can use chemical anchors.

The opening is reinforced with a corner.

Fastening to hollow bricks. Arrows indicate the locations of the chemical anchors.

Rule 6. If there is no opening at all.

This also happens, and quite often. In this case, a U-shaped frame from a professional pipe 100x50 or 100x100 is cooked. Naturally, all necessary lintels, shoulders, etc. are maintained.

In the photo, the preparation of the opening with a U-shaped frame from a professional pipe 100x50x3.

Rule 7. About suspensions.

The gates do not hang from the ceiling anyhow, but on special telescopic suspensions. They come in different lengths. By default, the set includes CS1, length 300mm. If you have a headroom (now you know what it is) up to 300mm, then everything is OK. If more, then we take a different size. There are only 5 of them, for 500, 800, 1000, and 1500mm. Sometimes they hang on the mounting corner, also an option, but it's unforgettable to make a trapezoid for rigidity, and not to make them too long (more than 1500mm), the structure will be unstable.

The hangers are attached in pairs, the first pair is hung at a distance of 900mm from the opening, the second at a distance equal to the opening height + 250mm.

An example of a door with telescopic hangers.

Conclusion.

Well, now you know how to properly prepare the opening for the installation of sectional doors. We hope you enjoyed our article. If you have any questions, call us, we are always happy to help with the choice of garage doors!

Below are the prices for Hermann and Alutech gates, promotional sizes, at the most affordable prices, and most importantly, all sizes are available in our warehouse! When choosing, be guided by a size equal to your opening, or next in size. Delivery within the Moscow Region within 30 km from the Moscow Ring Road costs 4000 rubles. Installation cost - 9000 rubles.

Herman Gate on stock, in stock

All sizes from the table are available in RAL8028 (brown), RAL9016 (white), RAL7016 (anthracite), Golden Oak, Dark Oak and Night Oak. Balancing mechanism - tension springs.
Sandwich panel M-corrugated.
Telescopic hangers 400 mm long.

Prices for Alutech sectional doors for special offers, available in stock.

All sizes from the table are in the color RAL8017. Dimensions 3000x2250 mm and 3000x2500 mm are also available in the Dark Oak color.

Modern types of gates for garages are highly reliable, easy to use, retain heat well in the room and look attractive. It is difficult to make them yourself, but anyone can save on installation and install sectional garage doors with their own hands. To do this, you need to carefully study the instructions and properly prepare the entrance opening.

Standard sectional doors are a leaf of several metal panels, guides and hangers, a special spring mechanism and an electric drive. The electric drive is not included in the package, it must be purchased separately, while the gate can be controlled in manual mode.

Gate panels are made of thin steel sheets, between which there is a sealant - polyurethane foam. Insulated panels have excellent thermal insulation and properties and practically do not let street noise into the room. In cheap models, the panel seal is not used, so they can only be installed in unheated garages.

Steel profiles equipped with brackets are used as guides. They are fixed along the perimeter of the opening and on the ceiling, where they are held by a special suspension. The spring mechanism provides easy sliding and balancing of the blade. Additionally, the product is completed with fasteners.

Some models have an acrylic window built into the panel, which is resistant to impact and damage, but allows sunlight to pass through well.

How to prepare the opening for installation

The installation of such gates requires the exact implementation of the instructions, because the slightest flaws can lead to a distortion of the structure, difficulty in sliding the canvas and serious damage. The dimensions of the sectional doors must correspond to the parameters of the opening; the opening itself must be properly strengthened and prepared in order to exclude all possible shortcomings.

For preparatory work and installation of the structure you will need:

building level;
drill;
roulette;
hammer;
set of drills;
pliers and wrenches;
trowel;
cement-sand mortar.

Step 1. Finishing

After installing the gate, it is more difficult to make the outer facing of the opening, therefore it is recommended to carry out the external finishing work in advance. To do this, remove the worn-out finish, cover the gap with a solution, level the inside of the opening and the adjacent sections of the walls.

Step 2. Strengthening the opening and installing the frame

For a garage made of light silicate or foam blocks, additional reinforcement of the opening will be required. They take metal corners 100x100 or channel No. 10, cook a frame from them according to the size of the opening and install it using anchor bolts. A concrete, brick and metal garage does not need such strengthening.

After installing the frame, its surface is polished with a grinder, primed, the joints with the wall are plastered, and painted. The preparation of internal surfaces is carried out more carefully: any unevenness of the wall adjacent to the opening reduces the tightness of the door joints and contributes to the loosening of the structure.

According to the installation technology, there should be a free distance of 45 cm from the inside of the opening on both sides. If the width of the walls is less, it will not be possible to install the sectional doors correctly. The minimum headroom height is 25 cm, for some models it is 30 cm.

An important point: if communications are fixed above the opening, and there is no way to transfer them, the height of the lintel is measured from the upper edge of the opening to the lower point of the communication connections.

These areas must be leveled with putty, sanded and treated with a primer mixture. Next, the horizontalness of the floor is checked: a long, even rail is laid on the floor in front of the opening and the number and depth of the gaps are determined. If the horizontal error is only 1-2 mm, alignment is not required; in other cases, a screed must be made. The room needs to be freed from large objects, a set of gates should be laid out on the floor, a ladder should be prepared and the installation should be started.

Step-by-step gate installation technology

Step 1. Markup

The installation process begins with a marking for mounting the guides. Take one panel, put it horizontally across the opening so that the edges of the panel evenly go onto the walls on both sides. Having stepped back from the panel 3 cm to the side, a mark is made on the surface of the wall with a pencil. On the other side of the opening, everything is done in the same way. Then the panel is removed, a level is taken and a vertical line is drawn from floor to ceiling through the mark. The permissible vertical deviations are 2 mm, with a larger value, the skew of the guides will negatively affect the movement of the web.

Step 2. Fixing the frame to the wall

Holes with a diameter of 12 mm are drilled along the marking lines in several places, dowels of the appropriate size are driven in and the guide racks are screwed in. You can tighten the fasteners tightly after vertical alignment. Horizontal guides are attached to the vertical guides and fix them with a retaining bar. At the joints, the resulting gate frame is reinforced with bolted connecting plates.

Having installed and fixed the frame on the walls, carefully check the contact areas for gaps. If gaps have formed between the profile and the wall, thin metal plates should be placed under the guides for alignment. It is undesirable to use other materials, because under the weight of the gate, they can deform.

Step 3. Assembling the canvas

Corner brackets are installed on the bottom panel; each bracket is fixed with 4 self-tapping screws. On the upper edge of the panel there are holes for fixing the hinges: the hinges are applied to the panel, aligned and screwed with two self-tapping screws. Next, hinges are placed on the middle and upper panels, side supports and rollers are attached to move the canvas along the profile. Insert the lower and middle sections into the guides, connect them with hinges, then attach the upper panel.

The finished canvas should fit snugly to the opening along the entire perimeter. At this stage, you can start installing mechanisms.

Installation of mechanisms

U-shaped support brackets are attached to the upper and lower ends of the vertical posts; on the lintel, these brackets are installed torsion mechanism: on the right, put a spring with a counterclockwise twist, on the left - vice versa. The springs are held together by a coupling and are additionally fixed with an inner bracket. On the sides, the torsion mechanism is tightened with M10x25 mm bolts.
Attach to the U-shaped bracket spring break protector using the same bolts and nuts of the appropriate size.
The end of the cable is wound into the lower corner bracket, folded in a loop, a wedge is inserted and temporarily fixed with brackets on self-tapping screws. For charging the springs, the manufacturer's instructions indicate the permissible number of revolutions; you need to navigate by the marking strip on the spring itself. The cocked springs are fixed with special knobs, which are removed after tightening the bolts.
The last to install restrictive buffers and shock absorbers, cables are attached to the drums... To check the balance of the springs and the correct installation of the curtain, the gate is opened halfway and stopped. If the bottom edge of the door is parallel to the floor, the door leaf does not twitch and does not fall arbitrarily, which means that the installation was done correctly. If the belt is skewed, jerks and vibrations are felt during movement, the tension of the cables and the operation of the torsion mechanism should be carefully checked.
At the final stage of installation, the handles and locks are attached from the inside, the smoothness of the movement is checked once again, and an electric drive is installed if necessary.

High-quality installation will ensure uninterrupted operation of sectional doors for 8-10 years; the only thing that will have to be adjusted periodically is the springs, which gradually stretch under the weight of the structure. But it will not be difficult to fix minor problems or adjust mechanisms after self-installing such gates.

Video - DIY sectional garage doors

Automatic sectional doors are becoming more and more popular every year, and there are many reasons for this. Besides the fact that it is convenient and beautiful, the gate reliably protects the premises from burglary and intrusion of strangers. The high level of security provided by sectional doors makes it possible to install them not only in garages, but also in industrial buildings, service centers and retail premises. However, the installation of sectional doors often costs almost half the cost of the structure itself, so many economical owners think about self-assembly. How to do it correctly and efficiently is described in detail below.

The massive popularization of sectional doors was due to the unique design that provides protection and sealing of the room. A standard system may also include electronic elements for remote control and other mechanisms such as alarms and motion sensors. As a rule, the construction of sectional doors includes springs, several guide modules, along which the curtain "travels", as well as a system for balancing this curtain.

For a garage, sectional doors are best suited, since the area there is quite limited, and the design allows you to significantly save on space. Take classic swing gates as an example: when opening the doors, you need a lot of free space in front of the garage, as well as a level and clean area so that the bottom edge of the doors does not cling to anything. Sectional doors simply "slide" into the ceiling, taking up unused space from the top.

As for the aesthetic aspect, it is also one of the primary factors in choosing a sectional door. The panels that make up the canvas can be chosen in any color. On sale there are also surfaces with textures like wood, masonry or stone, with painting and volumetric 3D drawings. During production, the panels themselves are treated with a special polymer substance that provides reliable protection of the metal from corrosion and increases the service life. The inside of the panels is filled with thermal insulation foam that can withstand severe temperature changes.

A special shutter system is responsible for the safety of functioning, which allows the gate to be automatically blocked in the lowered position. With careful operation, the structure will last 10-15 years without replacing components.

So, let's highlight the main advantages of sectional doors:

the convenience of use;
saving space;
reliable protection against burglary and penetration;
additional thermal insulation of the room;
long service life;
aesthetics;
possibility of self-installation.

DIY sectional door installation

Many reasonably consider sectional doors to be the best option for protecting a garage, retail and technical areas, and the possibility of self-installation without professional knowledge and skills makes the demand for such structures even greater. Despite the fact that installation from a professional team of an intermediary or manufacturer gives an additional guarantee of quality, many people prefer to assemble the gate with their own hands, saving a significant amount on this, sometimes reaching 30% of the total cost.

Similar "make it yourself" kits can be found at almost every company. They take into account standard garage entrances and, according to this data, offer a wide range of ready-made solutions in different colors and with different fittings. And thanks to detailed information and numerous video instructions, you can easily learn how to assemble gates of any company.

There are two ways to get a sectional garage door:

Buy a ready-made kit for self-assembly.
Order a construction with original dimensions directly from the manufacturer.

The latter option will cost more, but if you think about it, you will spend about the same amount of money on fitting a non-standard entrance opening to the standard dimensions of the purchased gate. But it will take much more time and effort. It is much easier to contact the manufacturer and order the correct size kit.

Sectional door measurements

The dimensions of the sectional doors must be selected based on the dimensions of the mounting plane. Taking accurate measurements ensures that you avoid a huge number of problems and overlaps that will emerge during the installation process.

When measuring height, be sure to take measurements in several places to eliminate the possibility of error. The same rule applies to width measurements. If you find significant differences in height or width, focus on the largest indicators. Installation of the gate will take place from inside the room, which will provide additional thermal insulation.

Another important point is the parallelism of the walls on both sides of the entrance opening. The height of the lintel - the distance between the ceiling and the lintel - will allow you to find out which gate with which installation method will suit you. The optimum lintel height is 20-22 cm.

After taking measurements and rechecking the data, you can buy a gate or order their manufacture at the factory.

Site preparation for sectional doors

After purchasing or manufacturing sectional doors of suitable dimensions, a high-quality installation must be carried out. To do this, you will need a number of tools and detailed instructions.

What tools are needed to install a sectional door:

building water level;
roulette;
hammer drill;
set of drills for concrete and metal;
set of wrenches;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
pliers;
personal protective equipment (glasses, gloves).

How to properly prepare the site for the installation of the overhead sectional door:

The first step is to remove the old cladding or paintwork from the opening.
Then you need to install a reinforcing metal structure. It is a kind of frame made of metal profiles.
To make it convenient for you to work, and the gate in the future could function freely and without interruption, it is necessary to leave a little free space around the entrance opening. On the sides, 45-60 cm will be enough, and from the upper edge of the opening to the ceiling there should be 30-45 cm.
When the opening is ready, you can transfer the installation scheme from the manufacturer to the existing plane.

The decisive factor for a quality installation is compliance with the strict verticality of the opening. Sectional structures are extremely sensitive even to minuscule distortions, and if this is allowed, they will often break down, and you will need to spend money on replacing power units and moving components.

In order to avoid such a development of events, it is necessary to mark the fixation points of the vertical and horizontal profiles of the frame as accurately as possible. Their task is to hold and direct the movement of the door panels. Using simple construction measuring tools, prepare and mark the attachment points for all structural components.

Sectional door installation

When installing automatic sectional doors, in no case should the horizontal and vertical lines of the guides or the frame be leveled with construction foam, wooden or steel pegs. Similar methods are applicable for any stationary structures such as windows, door frames, window sills, but in our case we are talking about guides for the canvas, which will regularly be subjected to mechanical stress. Any props in such operating conditions will quickly loosen and fall out, and when this happens, the gate will break. For such purposes, special metal gaskets are used, which firmly fix all the parts.

Helpful Hint: During installation, consult the instructions from the manufacturer of your gate for technical design features. Please note that the installation instructions below are universal and generalized, and therefore can be considered as an approximate procedure.

How to install a sectional door on your own:

Secure the bottom lamella.
Fix all supporting elements according to the step-by-step instructions from the manufacturer (instructions on the packaging or in the documentation for the door).
Collect the canvas.
After securing all sections, check if the sash, which is located at the very top of the structure, fits snugly.
Adjust all brackets.
Install and secure all gate control mechanisms (automatics, sensors), as well as attachments (locks, bolts, handles).
Tighten the cables and adjust the tension of the springs.
Secure the electrical wiring and install the section travel stop.
Carry out a test run to check the movement of the gate. Open and close them several times - the canvas should move smoothly and smoothly, nothing should interfere with it.

If you have done everything in accordance with the instructions, then for the next few years you can not worry about repairs. Nevertheless, it is worth checking the main components regularly, lubricating and cleaning them if necessary. Then the gate will serve you at least 10 years. During operation, try to avoid mechanical damage to the frame and canvas.

Accessories used

In conclusion, I would like to mention the fittings used in the installation process. Experts strongly advise against using used parts, even if you are offered them for free. If you want to take fittings from another manufacturer, first check its compatibility with the main design.

The most important thing is to assemble the doors following the instructions in the “native” drawings from the manufacturer. The standard set includes over 25 fittings. Check this point carefully when purchasing (the list of fittings should be indicated in the documents for the gate). Additionally, you can purchase and install on the gate a system that prevents accidental pinching of fingers, securing a break in the cable and spring.

By assembling sectional doors yourself, you not only save money on installation, but also get an excellent opportunity to equip the structure with any automation and decorate it according to your personal tastes. When using decorative elements, the gate can become a real decoration of the facade of the house. It is not at all necessary to install the classic smooth white sections - you can replace them with paneled or wavy ones. You can also install small decorative windows in them, which will not only "revive" the appearance, but will become an additional source of light in the garage.

The experience of self-installation of sectional doors will be extremely useful to any owner of such a design, as it will save time and money for subsequent maintenance. Simply put, in the event of a breakdown, you will know what is the reason and how to fix it.

A video about sectional doors will summarize all the above information and allow you to get a more detailed understanding of the installation process:

Sectional doors were designed around 40 years ago in Germany. Today it is the most common type of garage door in Europe. In Russia, sectional doors are just beginning to gain popularity among consumers.

Sectional garage doors have a wide range of applications. They are installed in industrial facilities, in car services, car dealerships and parking lots. Gates installed in private houses and underground garages perfectly emphasize and complement the architecture of the building.

The principle of operation and design features of sectional doors

Sectional doors are a lifting mechanism, during which the flexible leaf rises and retracts under the ceiling.

The canvas consists of four to six sections, interconnected by hinge loops. When the gate is opened, the sections move upward and stack on top of each other. The movement takes place due to drums and cables, balanced by a spring mechanism. Along the frame and under the ceiling there are guides along which the panels slide on rollers.

The standard dimensions for sectional garage doors are:

height 2-6 meters;
length - up to 5 meters (gates up to 7 meters can be made to order);
width of one section (35-61 cm).

It is advisable to install a gate with the minimum required dimensions. Compact doors work more stable, the risk of door blocking is reduced (heavy modules can jam in the guiding grooves)

Each module is made according to the principle of sandwich panels. Outer sheets are made of aluminum or galvanized steel. To make the sections decorative, they can be covered with a wooden panel, which significantly increases the cost of the gate.

Depending on whether the room is heated or not, the thickness of the sandwich panels is selected:

20 mm - "cold" canvas is suitable for an unheated garage;
35-45 mm - insulated sections (thermal insulation properties are equivalent to brickwork of one and a half bricks).

The internal filling of the modules is made of insulation that does not absorb moisture (polyester or polyurethane foam). A cork material is installed between the door sections, which ensures a tight fit of the modules to each other and prevents the appearance of "cold bridges" (the permissible gap size is no more than 4 mm).

The bottom door panel is equipped with an elastic seal, so that the metal section does not freeze to the floor in cold weather.

Automatic sectional garage doors are equipped with an electric drive with the possibility of manual control in the event of a power outage. The electric motor is installed on the middle rail, which regulates the movement of the leaves.

Advantages and disadvantages of sectional garage doors

Sectional doors have many advantages:

saving space in the garage and at the entrance to it;

high thermal insulation with sections made of sandwich panels (thermal conductivity coefficient - 0.5 W / m2);
good sound insulation of sandwich panels (29 dB);
reliable sealing of the opening;
versatility of use (the gate can be installed in rooms with different opening lengths);

fire safety of the structure (the materials used prevent the spread of fire);
ease of use;
decorativeness and aesthetics (any pattern can be applied to modular sections);

long warranty period (about 10 years);
ease of repair (in case of gate breakage, it is enough to replace one damaged section);
control can be manual, remote and automatic;
safety of use (modern sectional doors are equipped with the option of protection against wire breakage).

The disadvantages of sectional garage doors include their high cost and the need for periodic maintenance. If the gate is installed correctly, then repairs will not be needed soon. Usually, its need arises when the sectional modules are damaged by vehicles or when spare parts are worn out (rollers, balancing springs, moving parts of the mechanism).

Which is better: to make a sectional door yourself or to trust the professionals?

The desire to reduce waste as much as possible and realize creative potential pushes many motorists to design and manufacture sectional garage doors with their own hands. However, the result does not always justify the effort and expectations.

Very often, the complexity of self-taught designs increases costs, and the finished product cannot boast of high reliability and durability. In the factory models, special safety elements are provided to exclude an emergency fall of the curtain.

It is advisable to independently assemble the gate according to the original drawings, using cheaper factory parts. Alternatively, you can buy used mechanisms in good condition from well-known and reliable manufacturers.

The main thing in self-assembly is to correctly "read" the layout diagram of the construction details of sectional doors.

If there is no special desire and extra time to experiment, then the best option is to buy ready-made gates and install them by representatives of the manufacturer's company.

doors with tension springs can be installed with minimal lintel requirements, but they are noisier and designed for fewer working cycles;
doors with a torsion mechanism are considered the most reliable and practical (designed for 25,000 working cycles), have a higher price.

Dorhan garage door panels are 40 mm thick, filled with polyurethane foam, outer layers - galvanized steel with polymers.

In the construction of parking lots and cottages, Alutech sectional garage doors are widely used, which have high strength and safety indicators.

The thickness of Alutech door sandwich panels is 45 mm, the filling is polyurethane foam, the outer layers are 0.4 mm thick steel with a zinc coating of 16 microns. The elasticity and mechanical strength of the modular sections is achieved due to the EPDM polymer gasket, which the door panels are equipped with.

Alutech sectional doors are "warm" and hermetic, which allows them to be used in any region (even in frosty conditions of the Far North).

Installation of sectional garage doors

Required tools and materials

For self-installation of sectional doors, you need to purchase all the accessories and prepare the necessary tools.

The sectional door assembly kit includes:

sandwich panels;
guides;
torsion mechanism;
additional accessories and components.

For work you will need:

pliers;
spanners;
hammer;
riveting gun;
drill with a set of drills;
tape measure and level;
hand gloves and goggles;
drill with a perforator;
construction knife and pencil.

Preparing the doorway

Before starting the installation of sectional garage doors, you need to prepare the room and the doorway:

The permissible error of the horizontal floor in the garage is no more than 0.1 cm

Installation work: rules and order of installation

Proceeding directly to the installation of sectional garage doors, you need to consider some important points:

The basic rule of competent installation is compliance with a clear vertical line of the doorway and tight fixation of all structural elements. Sectional doors will not "tolerate" distortions.
In the work it is necessary to use self-tapping screws, dowels and anchors of the sizes indicated in the instructions.
To level the structure, do not use polyurethane foam or wooden pegs. The gate can be adjusted with different-sized metal pads.

Assembly and installation procedure for sectional doors:

If the work is done not alone, but in the company of one or two more volunteers, then the installation will be completed within two or three hours.

The main criteria for choosing a sectional door

In order for the operation of sectional doors to be long-term and uninterrupted, when buying a product, you need to pay attention to some important parameters.

Sectional doors have many benefits and are often used in garage construction. With the right choice and proper installation, such gates will last a long time, without requiring costly major repairs.